Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Morocco - basic info - the essentials


This is the basic information you need to know before a trip to Morocco

Time: Local time is GMT.


Electricity: Electrical current is 220 volts, 50Hz. European two-pin round plugs are standard.


Currency: The unit of currency is the Moroccan Dirham (MAD), which is divided into 100 centimes. ATMs are available in the larger towns, but do read our ATM WARNING
Cash can be exchanged at banks or official bureaux de changes, which are also widespread in major towns. Dirhams cannot be obtained or exchanged outside Morocco and receipts must be retained as proof of legal currency exchange, as well as in order to re-exchange money when departing. Major credit cards are accepted in the larger shops, hotels and restaurants. Travellers cheques can be used in tourist areas, but are not prevalent; they are best taken in Euros or Pounds Stirling.

Currency Exchange Rates:  please check your exchange rates here: EXCHANGE

Language: Arabic is the official language, but Berber, French and Spanish are also spoken. English is generally understood in the tourist areas, but French is the more common.


Visas : For New Zealanders and Australians a passport, but no visa is necessary for a stay of up to three months.

For United States citizens, a passport, but no visa for a stay of up to three months.

For UK nationals a passport, but no visa for a stay of up to three months, providing the passport is endorsed British Citizen, British National (Overseas) or British Subject, with the right of abode in the U.K. In all other cases a visa is required.

For Canadians: Canadian citizens require a passport, but no visa for a stay of up to three months. 

For South Africans a passport and note you must apply for a visa in South Africa, for travel to Morocco.

For Irish nationals, a passport, but no visa is necessary for a stay of up to three months.

Proof of sufficient funds are required for visa and entry approval. An extension of six months is available for visa-exempt nationals.

Health:  Health insurance should be taken out before you leave your home country. No vaccinations are required to enter Morocco. It is advisable to drink bottled water and be selective in the case of street food. Often street food is safer than some tourist restaurants. Medical facilities are good in all major towns. 


Tipping: A tip of 10 % is expected but some places include a service charge. Giving  a few dirhams to the poor is a good thing to do, but never give money to children.


Safety: Violent crime is not a major problem, but there have been thefts at knifepoint in major cities and especially on beaches. Be sensible in dark streets at night. Walk with a friend. Use official (badged) guides only.  


Customs: Morocco is a Muslim country and it is preferable to keep the wearing of swimsuits, shorts and other revealing clothing to the beach or hotel poolside. Women travelling alone will receive less hassle if dressed conservatively. Smoking is practised widely, and it is customary to offer cigarettes in social situations. Religious customs should be respected, particularly during the month of Ramadan when eating, drinking and smoking during daylight hours should be discreet as it is forbidden by the Muslim culture. The giving and receiving of things, and the eating of food, should only be done with the right hand, as the left is considered unclean. Homosexuality is a criminal offence, and sexual relations outside marriage are also punishable by law.


Business: Business in Morocco is based on French customs and is much more formal than in some Western countries. Always check what language a meeting will be  held . Arrange your own translator well in advance. Almost all businesses are closed on Fridays, and some are also closed on Thursdays.


Communications:  Internet Cafes are everywhere but the keyboards are often non-qwerty! The international access code for Morocco is +212. The outgoing code is 00 followed by the relevant country code (e.g. 0044 for the United Kingdom). City/area codes are in use, e.g. (0)44 for Marrakech and (0)37 for Rabat. Hotels can add a hefty surcharge to their telephone bills; it is best to check before making long international calls. Three mobile GSM 900 networks cover the north of the country. 


Duty free: Travellers to Morocco over 18 years do not have to pay duty on 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 400g tobacco; 1 litre spirits and 1 litre wine; and perfume up to 5g.

Monday, December 17, 2007

Eid is coming, the sheep are getting fat





Eid falls on Friday 21 December, and Fez is buzzing with activity. Lumen has been out and about, aided and abetted by Tom Fakler (who took the photos), to see what's going on.


If you want a really nice sheep, pop off to the tents in the carparks at Acima or Marjane (the supermarkets) where there's a wide choice. You'll need to know how to check its teeth and prod it about a bit to make sure it's good quality. This year a live sheep will cost you Dh41 per kilo, which just goes to prove that inflation isn't very high in Morocco. Three years ago, it was Dh35 per kilo. Mind you, a sheep must weigh at least 40kg, so that's a minimum of Dh1640; rather more than the average Christmas turkey, and very expensive for many families. But in this culture of helping your neighbour, no-one will go hungry, every family will get their sheep, even if they share with relatives. And some wealthy people will buy a hundred or two sheep and give them away.

Then you've got to get your sheep home. You can put it in the back of your car, hire a honda (small van), share a large van with other people (and sheep), or simply tie a piece of rope round its neck and walk it home. If you do use a honda, there are plenty of men with carossas (carts) waiting at the taxi ranks to help you and your animal home.

Once you've got the sheep up on the roof of your house (as good a place as any to keep it), you'll need to feed it for its few remaining days. There are lots of people sitting around in the medina with a load of wheat that they separate into piles of grain and piles of chaff. The supermarkets and the medina stalls are full of barbecuing equipment; skewers, grids, charcoal and very sharp axes and knives. If you already have a knife, it's probably got a bit blunt since last year, so have it sharpened by the knife-grinder who's pedalling his whetstone on the corner of the street.


wheat and hay for sale for feeding your sheep

Marjane (the big supermarket on the edge of town) is full of people stocking up for the occasion, and there are special offers on new fridges, stoves, washing machines and microwaves.

Everybody wants new things for Eid, new clothes, new pots, new plates and new teapots. It's a bit chaotic in the supermarkets, especially when the husbands are the ones driving the trolleys.
And everyone wants money too. If you're having some work done on your house, for example, the workers will make sure they turn up before Eid so that you can pay them. It's time to give the domestic worker a bonus or a kilo of good quality dates and some chocolates or clothes for her children. And the children are very excited about their howli (sheep) and feel sorry for those who don't have one.

Come Friday, the family will gather to watch father slaughter the sheep after the call to prayer (and after the King has killed two sheep - one for his country and one for his family), and then the medina streets will be thick with smoke from barbecuing sheep's heads, entrails will be hung out to dry on the washing lines, and everyone will be tucking into sheep's stomachs (they're eaten first). On the second day, other parts of the animal will be eaten. It's a great family occasion - children get presents of money, everyone wears new clothes and visits their relatives.

Eid Mubarak Said!



you'll need charcoal for the barbecue


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Thursday, December 13, 2007

Cafe Clock - the place to be seen in Fez




The new Cafe Clock is rocking in Fez. While away a sunny winter's afternoon on the terrace with the stunning Bouanania minaret but metres away, sit in the cosy bar area or the buzzy courtyard by the kitchen, or lounge comfortably in the library on the first floor and check out the books.

Exciting artistic events are being planned: artist Jess Stephens plans calligraphy lessons: from two hour courses for visitors to Fez to longer courses for residents, directed by the calligraphy expert whose work graces the walls of the Cafe; henna sessions and more - watch this space for details!

The menu is an eclectic mix of traditional Moroccan fare and some European offerings that make for a good mix to please everyone. While some staples such as harira (Moroccan soup), couscous, camel burgers and the Cafe's famous lemon tart are standards, there are daily specials such as fish pastilla and beef lasagne.

Tariq's family recipe for Couscous Boohaloo is really worth trying with succulent, tender lamb, couscous, raisins, apricots and caramelised onions. The camel burger is served with a homemade tomato ketchup from Taza, and the cakes and coffee are delicious. Along with the usual soft drinks are fresh orange juice (15dh) and chocolate, banana or almond milkshakes at 15dh. There are four types of coffee (8-10dh) and Moroccan mint, Earl Grey or English Breakfast tea (10-12dh). Here's today's menu:

Harira 20dh
Pumpkin soup 20dh
Fez Platter 40/75dh

Grilled Aubergine & Salami Sandwich 45dh
Prawn Cocktail Baguette 40dh
Chicken Caesar Salad 55dh
Couscous Boohaloo 70dh
Veggie Burger 65dh
Camel Burger with Taza Ketchup 70dh
Fish Pastilla 70dh
Beef Lasagne with Salad 65dh

Lemon Tart 25dh
Marble Cake with Chocolate Sauce 20dh
Selection of Moroccan Pastries 20dh
Almond Tart 25dh





The cosy library at Cafe Clock


Photos: Simon Grosset


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Monday, December 10, 2007

Fes Festival at the British House of Commons


MP Khalid Mahmood addresses the meeting, while Mary Finnigan, Fatima Sadiqi, Mushtaq Lashari, Saundra Satterlee and others listen

Fes Festival of World Sacred Music UK Co-ordinator Mary Finnigan was on the speaker’s platform at the British House of Commons for a meeting to foster links between the Fes Festival and the UK charity Third World Solidarity. Here’s her report.

It was billed as a “low key event” – just a few people getting together with an All Party Parliamentary group in Committee Room 10 to hear speeches and have a drink afterwards. But on the night, every seat was filled, Moroccan TV news was there and so too was the BBC World Service – together with other assorted journalists, Fouad Kadmiri the Moroccan Cultural Attaché, the Chairman of the Temenos Academy Sir Nicholas Pearson, Festival sound engineer Chris Ekers, UK Spirit of Fes Representative Lynn Evans Davidson and Members of Parliament Khalid Mahmood, Mohammed Sarwar and the host for evening David Anderson.

David Anderson opened the proceedings with a welcoming speech, but like all MPs when the House is sitting, he was a slave to the division bell and had to leave immediately afterwards. Mushtaq Lashari from Third World Solidarity took over the Chair, assisted by American journalist Saundra Satterlee. Speeches highlighting the shared perspectives of the Fes Encounters forum and Third World Solidarity followed, then the new Spirit of Fes Foundation Director General Fatima Sadiqi gave the keynote address.

Fatima spoke eloquently about her time at Essex University, her love of England and her deep respect for her post graduate teacher – a professor with a formidable reputation. The core message of her speech was an affirmation of the spiritual values that underpin the activities of the Spirit of Fes Foundation.

At question time Sir Nicholas Pearson expressed his long-held wish that Fes should become a place of pilgrimage for spiritual seekers of all persuasions – a genuine multi-faith, multi-cultural meeting place where differences can be peacefully explored and similarities celebrated; a crucible for open-hearted enquiry and discussion – a counter-balance to confrontational religious politics.

Afterwards we processed in somewhat chaotic groups to Portcullis House, the modernist extension to the House of Commons, for the reception. The ambiance was relaxed and very happy. Nick Pearson described the entire proceedings as “a triumph”. Everyone involved felt that it had generated large amounts of positive energy.

Big thanks to David Anderson MP, Mushtaq Lashari and Saundra Satterlee from Third World Solidarity for setting up, financing and hosting this wonderful and useful occasion. I am sure everyone hopes for ongoing fruitful collaboration.



Fatima Sadiqi is interviewed for Moroccan TV
Photos: Adel Zarea



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Tuesday, December 04, 2007

Madrid to Tangier for 25 Euro.


Budget airline Easy-Jet have just announced that they intend to open a link between Madrid and Tangiers starting in early February 2008.

Initially there will be six weekly flights growing to daily flights during the summer holidays period. One of the target markets will be the thousands of Moroccans who return from Europe every summer.

25 Euro for a one-way trip should allow the company to position itself as a leader in the market with more than 600,000 Moroccan nationals living in Spain.

The British company has been operating for nine months between Madrid and the Moroccan cities of Casablanca and Marrakech.

In a media statement, the company explained that its decision is in line with the Moroccan choice to position Tangier as "one of the major tourist cities in North Africa".

EasyJet has become the main airline flying to Marrakech with 38% of the market share, ahead of the Moroccan company Royal Air-Maroc (25%) and Spanish company Iberia (24%).

As of February 2007, EasyJet conveyed 56,941 passengers between these two cities.

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