Thursday, May 31, 2007

Why is Bono in Fez?




The View from Fez has its ear to the ground and can confirm a rumour that has been floating around the Medina for the last two days. Bono is in Fez. Why? Well according to one source he is recording here with U2 - another is that he has dropped in for the Fez Festival - or ( most likely) he is here for both reasons.

UPDATE#1: Bono is staying in riad in Batha while making a music video.

UPDATE#2: See our report on the possible musical outcomes of the Fez sessions.

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The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music - A royal opening night




Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Salma

FESTIVE OPENING NIGHT

The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music promises a glittering first night. Barbara Hendricks, the well-known opera diva, will sing her favourite work, Stabat Mater by Pergolese. Born in the USA, Barbara is now a Swedish citizen, and she brings with her the Swedish mezzo-soprano, Paula Hoffman, and The Baroque Ensemble of Drottningholm. This ensemble only plays on original Baroque instruments. Barbara has performed at the Fes Festival before, as well as such prestigious opera stages as the Paris Opera, Covent Garden, the Metropolitan Opera and La Scala.


Her Majesty Queen Rania Al-Abdallah

Eyes will not only be focussed on the artistes, however. In a rare scoop, The View from Fez has learned that the opening night will be graced with the presence of Her Majesty Queen Rania Al-Abdallah of Jordan; that most revered Fassi, Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Salma, and former French President, Jacques Chirac. We wish them all a wonderful festival.


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Wednesday, May 30, 2007

Whispers in the Fez Medina


One of the big problems facing tour groups exploring the Fez Medina is hearing what the guide is saying. Often the numbers in each group are so large that those at the rear of the party are some distance away from the guide and miss almost everything the guide is explaining. The noise in the narrow alleys of Fez can add to the problems and in the past has created considerable frustration for both guides and tourists alike.

The receiver - compact and lightweight

Over the last couple of months the problem has been solved by wireless technology. The system we investigated is called "Whisper". The guide has the microphone and transmitter while the clients all have a small receiver that is small, lightweight and simple to operate. Individual receivers enable the clients to adjust the volume to suit their own requirements.

A tourist with the "Whisper" system

Every member of the party has a radio receiver around their neck and an earplug that allows them to hear every word being said. As one guide pointed out, "The other advantage is that I don't have to keep yelling!"

A guide using "Whisper"


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Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Gnaoua Dance Party in Fez.

Last night The View from Fez and Purple Circle held a night of Gnaoua music at Riad Zany. Around fifty people attended with a great mix of nationalities - Americans, French, German, Swiss, English, Australian and New Zealanders. Almost fifty percent of the guests were Moroccans from Fez, Casablanca and Meknes. Mike's crew from Cafe Clock once again provided a fabulous spread of gateaux that was served with copious quantities of mint tea.

As it would be impossible to describe the amazing night - we will let the pictures tell at least some of the story.

Gnaoua bizaf!


Suzanna Clarke and her"welcome home" cake


Cafe Clock once again turned on amazing food.

The musicians are joined by Frederic Calmes (right) and Abderrahim Amrani Marrakchi (left)


It was a great night - thanks due to Sanaa, Mouaniss, Frederic Calmes, Abderrahim Amrani Marrakchi, Mike and the crew from Cafe Clock and Karima.

Photography: Suzanna Clarke & Sandy McCutcheon


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Monday, May 28, 2007

Finding a supermarket in Fez.



Sometimes we forget that visitors to Fez might want to purchase something from a supermarket that they can't find in the souqs. There are several supermarkets to choose from, but possibly the best and easiest is Marjane.

From the Medina it is a fifteen minute taxi ride and should cost just under twenty dirhams.

Marjane has a huge range of merchandise that includes not only the normal supermarket items, but electrical appliances, computer supplies, sporting equipment, clothes and a large wine and liquor outlet. A point to remember if you want to bring alcohol in the medina, do wrap bottles and carry them discretely as some taxi drivers will refuse to carry you if they see alcohol in your bags

On a recent trip we were searching for a camera tripod and found that Marjane actually had choice of models.

You will find a cash machine (ATM) as well as several specialist shops including a good pharmacy. There is also a small cafe that serves good panni that is worth trying if you need a snack.

To find a taxi to return to the Medina, walk to the end of the building ( past the toilets) and you will find a taxi stand.


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La Trois Sources - haute cuisine in Fez.


Possibly the ultimate fine dining in Fez, certainly as far as interesting cuisine is concerned, is a restaurant one the outskirts of the Ville Nouvelle on the Route du Immouzer. The View from Fez has been eating at La Trois Sources for several years now and while we have always found it of a high standard, we have to say that the present chef is remarkable.

A wonderful ambiance.

The food is excellent and in particular we would recommend the fresh fish. The latest innovation is the menu containing some wonderful daily specials. The souffle of crustaceans - a mix of prawns and lobster - is irresistible, as is the mountain trout.

Fresh lobster

The wine list is not extensive, but contains a good mix. For those who like live music, try visiting the restaurant on the weekends.

A gateau for special occasions.

The general ambiance is warm and welcoming with a relaxed feeling that allows for an informality that is not often the case in restaurants of this quality. The staff are all friendly, knowledgeable and professional - dining at La Trois Sources is a pleasure.


A superb souffle with Grand Marnier

Saturday 2 June at Trois Sources - around the pool (weather permitting):

Programme

- Benni, international singer in the style of Barry White
- Khalid Said, guitarist specialising in Carlos Santana
- Miloud, the desert musicians
- DJ

Menu
- Welcome snacks
- Seafood cocktail
- Crepe a la reine
- Salmon on a bed of apples and fennel
- Fruit brochettes

Price Dh350 per head



DETAILS:

La Trois Sources
will send a car for you if you don't have your own transport. The number to call is 035-60-65-32.

Words & photographs: Sandy McCutcheon



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Sunday, May 27, 2007

Faces in the Medina - Suzanna Clarke




Suzanna Clarke is a well known face in the Fez Medina. Over the last few months she has been back in Australia editing her much awaited book on Fez as well as keeping her "day job" as Arts Editor of a major Australian daily newspaper. In usual fashion she also managed to keep working on her Masters of International Relations degree. The photographer and writer is back in Fez to complete work on her upcoming book and to cover the Fez Festival of World Sacred Music.

Driss waits for Suzanna in Casablanca

There was a funny incident at Casablanca airport the other morning when Suzanna returned to Morocco. Unaware that she was being treated to a VIP ride back to Fez, she was startled to find her name on a clipboard. Our driver Driss, who had driven from Fez at 4 in the morning was equally anxious. What if he missed her, what if she had missed the flight.

Driss is overjoyed when he spots Suzanna

Fortunately for all concerned they did find each other and the first part of Suzanna Clarke's trip back to Fez was an enjoyable and comfortable ride complete with a mini-picnic.

Suzanna is overwhelmed when she sees Driss

Once back in Fez it took Suzanna very little time too get back to work. Still needing some ten or twelve more images for her book, she was out in the streets and visiting people such as Louis da Fez who kindly let her photograph some of the fine detail in his house.

Marion, Helen, Suzanna & David.

At lunch time we caught up with Suzanna at her favourite street cafe (Thami's Restaurant) were she was meeting up with Marion Fawlk, Helen Ranger and David Amster.

Sadly Suzanna will be in Fez for only a short time before heading off to Bordeaux on another assignment and then back to Australia where she will launch her new book in October/November.

UPDATE: As of 2012, Suzanna lives in Fez all the time.

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Censoring the internet in Morocco - a step backwards.


In a blow to free speech, the Maroc Telecom has blocked yet another internet service. The news flashed around the blogoma and was soon picked up by the giant site Global Voices, where Sami ben Gharbia had this to say.
May 25, 2007, it has been reported by numerous Moroccan blogger that Morocco has blocked access to YouTube video sharing website. There have been many ongoing speculations that the ban followed the broadcasting of material critical of the country’s king and pro-Western Sahara. This is the third major sites blocked by the Moroccan filtering regime after Google Earth and Livejournal.
While we fully understand the sensitive security and political issues, we do not believe that this is the way for a country to move forward. Morocco has made some very positive steps towards a more open society in recent times and it is not the time to turn the clock back. Also, given the nature of the internet, each and every ban can be circumvented by any reasonably clever teenager.

Another Moroccan point of view: Yousef in Morocco

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Friday, May 25, 2007

Josephine in Morocco - Dar El Hana



A sense of style that is not oppressive

Josephine Kwan is an Aussie. There is no mistaking the accent or the warm engaging smile. Living in Fez for the last few years she has not only made herself a wonderful home, but opened it up to visitors from around the globe who want to experience life in a traditional house in the Fez Medina.

Her house, Dar El Hana, is in a quiet street just off one of the main thoroughfares that runs through the heart of the Medina and it is distinctive in that, while it is beautifully restored, it is not overly ornate. This is a home, not a museum. It is livable, warm and inviting.

A home - not a hotel.

So what brought a woman from Melbourne to Morocco and why does she choose to live as far away from her birthplace as it is physically possible to be without leaving the planet? Simple - she truly loves living in Fez and particularly likes the Moroccan people. To walk along the street with her is to be constantly greeted by her friends and acquaintances - all with a smile as broad as hers.

And while many people would marvel at the links she has built, few can boast that their son has married the girl next door. In Josephine's case, this is true. On the fourteenth of March this year her son, Anthony, married Lamya and so Josephine is one of the few ex-pats who can claim to have "family" in Fez.

Running Dar El Hana as a guest house has also been an experience. The work is hard and the demands on her time can be all consuming - but Josephine treats it all with a typical Aussie "can do" attitude. In fact, she sees her guests as a real plus - a bit of value added pleasure to being in Fez. As she quips - "Each day I meet really interesting people and of course, I am in everyone else's holiday."

"I am in everyone else's holiday!"

A majority of Josephine's guests so far have been Americans, British and (naturally enough) Australians. With he trend towards people spending more time in Fez and getting to explore the Medina, she is also able to build great relationships with her guests and expects to welcome many of them back for return visits.

For those who want a break from all the sights and sounds that Fez has to offer, Dar El Hana has a private terrace where guests can relax in the the sun, (or shade) and simply take it easy.

Visitors enjoying the sun on the terrace

Details

email: moroccangetaway@gmail.com
website: www.moroccangetaway.com
>

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Thursday, May 24, 2007

A milestone for The View from Fez


Today we had our 200,000th visitor.

Total 200,000
Average Per Day 1,080
Average Length Visit 2.7
Last Hour 56
Today 996
This Week 7,960


The visitor was from:
Continent : Africa
Country : South Africa
State/Region : Western Cape
City : Parow

All we can say is: Thank you!

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Restoration projects in the Fez Medina

This beautiful fountain in the Chrabliyine district of the medina was identified as needing cleaning and restoration. It's situated in a small square near the ancient house, Dar Dmana, and a magnificent old mulberry tree. The fountain is fed by a natural spring and local people come to collect water and to wash their horses.We have chipped out the cement repairs to the fountain surround and fill the holes with harch. Once this is dry, a new layer of medluk will be applied. - Fes Riads



While many people are busy restoring old houses in the Fez Medina, there are other projects going on that are making an important contribution to the life of the people in the Medina.

Fes Riads - who run a service finding accomodation in traditional houses in the Medina contributes a small amount donated by the dar and riad owners towards community restoration projects.

Yesterday we visited the "fountain project" in Derb Jama El Hamiya. This fountain was in very bad repair and was selected for restoration because it was an important watering hole for horses and mules as well as the place where animals were washed and groomed. We can now report that although there is still some work to be done, the horses and owners are delighted with the results so far.

For finding accomodation in Fez and to assist Medina restoration, contact Fez Riads.

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Moroccan truffles - a rare delight


Shopping in the central market yesterday, we discovered the small plastic container on the bottom left of the picture above. Truffles! The discovery was even more exciting because rather than pay the very expensive prices of 80 to 100 Euro per kilo as you might in Europe, the truffles were only 80 dirhams per kilo.

These particular truffles came from Bouarfa, which is between Oujda and Figuig near the Algerian border, but they are often available by the roadside in various parts of Morocco.

Truffles are best used a few days after they are harvested, but for those who want the flavour all year round there are ways of preserving them or making truffle oil. Having purchased a kilo we made a truffle emulsion (blending with oil) and also stored some in light olive oil to create truffle oil.

A few fresh truffles grated through fettuccine was the first test - and it proved to be perfect.


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Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Two upcoming music events.


Merzouga will host the fourth Desert Music Festival between May 24 and 25, with musical performances, from Moroccan,Spanish, Brazilian, French and Malian musicians.

According to the events organizers - "We are scheduling a harmonious program allying music and emotions to allow large public to discover musical rhythms, delve into a cultural mosaic and enjoy this festival which vows to be an exceptional musical meeting." A round table on desert tourism and oasis and a camel race will be organized in the area as well.


Gnaoua Dance Party

Also coming up is the third in the series of Moroccan music concerts being hosted by Riad Zany on Monday May 28. The concert, which starts at 8pm sharp, will be a night of Gnaoua - a dance party - and once again guests will be well looked after by Mike and the crew from the Clock Cafe. There will be limited seating - but plenty of dance space. The previous events have been fully booked and attended by a great mix of ex-pats and Moroccans.


There is still room for a few more people - but please do let the organisers know if you are coming. Entry is by donation of (minimum) 50 dirhams and all money goes to support local musicians.

For more info and to reserve a place, email Si Mohammed at : purplecircle.fez@gmail.com


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Driss Bensekri's death a loss for Morocco

"His death is most certainly a great loss, not only for his family, but also for the whole of Morocco" - King Mohammed VI


Morocco is mourning the death of human rights activist Driss Benzekri, who died on Sunday after a long illness at the age of 57. The following tribute was prepared by Human Rights Watch

Arrested for his left-wing student activities in 1974, Benzekri served the next 17 years as a political prisoner. Freed in 1991 by the late King Hassan II, Benzekri immersed himself in the human rights work that consumed him until the end of his days.

Benzekri started working in 1993 at the Rabat headquarters of the independent Moroccan Organization for Human Rights (OMDH). In 1999 he left the OMDH to co-found and direct the Moroccan Forum for Truth and Equity (FVJ), an organization that advocated on behalf of victims of repression under the late King Hassan II. In 2000, advisors to the newly enthroned
King Mohamed VI approached Benzekri and the FVJ to explore how the regime might address the demands of those who had suffered human rights abuses under Hassan II, father of the present monarch.

In 2004, Mohamed VI created the Equity and Reconciliation Commission (ERC), the first truth commission to be established in a Middle Eastern or North African country. The ERC's stated purpose was to establish the truth about human rights abuses perpetrated from the time of Morocco's independence in 1956 until 1999. The king named Benzekri to head the commission, an appointment that, because of Benzekri's forceful intellect and reputation for integrity, enhanced the credibility of the new body.

"Driss was always at the heart of efforts to address abuses past and present in Morocco," said Joe Stork, deputy Middle East and North Africa director at Human Rights Watch. "Thanks in no small measure to his efforts, victims of past human rights abuses finally began to obtain redress and recognition decades after their torment."

Some human rights activists criticized the Equity and Reconciliation Commission's statutory restrictions on bringing perpetrators to justice, saying that these would reinforce impunity for human rights abuses. Before the ERC was created, Benzekri observed: "The position one has on the impunity issues stems from one's assessment of where we are in democratization process," implying that skeptics on reform were more likely to insist on punishing past abusers. Evidently, by the time he agreed to head the ERC, Benzekri believed that democratization had progressed to an extent that permitted the ERC to de-emphasize accountability for perpetrators.

In 2004 and 2005, Benzekri presided over the ERC's work of investigating thousands of cases of human rights violations, deciding on individual and collective measures of compensation, and making recommendations to the government to consolidate the rule of law.

One of the major successes of the ERC was to organize public, televised testimonies by victims of past repression in cities around the country. The ERC's legacy is less certain with respect to its recommended reforms, most of which the government has yet to implement 18 months after they were proposed.

At the time of his death, Benzekri served as president of the king's Advisory Council of Human Rights. In January, he spoke at the World Congress Against the Death Penalty in Paris in favor of abolishing capital punishment in Morocco – one of the ERC recommendations that has yet to be implemented.

"Despite chronic back pain caused by torture and a debilitating illness, Driss continued to fight for human rights until the end of his life," said Stork.

Like many other political activists arrested in the 1960s and 1970s, Benzekri was held in prolonged, illegal incommunicado detention before being convicted in an unfair trial for "harming state security." He spent 18 months in the Derb Moulay Cherif interrogation center in Casablanca, where the police beat him while his hands and feet were tied behind his back. In 1977 he was transferred to Kenitra Prison, where he remained until the king freed him in 1991, 13 years before the end of his sentence.

In 1995, Human Rights Watch honored Benzekri for his work as executiv director of the Moroccan Human Rights Organization, at ceremonies in New York and Washington.

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Monday, May 21, 2007

FEZ FESTIVAL ACCOMMODATION



With the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music almost upon us, The View from Fez has been out and about in search of the last remaining accommodation options. The good news is that there are rooms available in some of the beautiful traditional houses in the Medina, most of them within reasonable distance of the concert venues.


For example, there’s a wonderful little riad sleeping six people in the Ziat region, either for a group of friends or as individually rented rooms. Another guesthouse in Ziat offers sumptuous accommodation. Two guesthouses in the Batha area, superb for concert access, still have some options. And there’s a jewel of an apartment for two in the central medina. While many of the well-established riad guesthouses are full, you can still find good value rooms (all with bathrooms) if you look hard enough. Expect to pay between €50 and €150 per room per night, including breakfast, or try a top-end guesthouse suite at €220-275.

For information about booking visit Fez Riads - booking here aids Medina Restoration Projects


Festival Venues

Evening concerts take place at Bab Al Makina, about ten minutes’ walk from Bab Boujloud. It’s a pleasant saunter downhill of about 15 minutes to Dar Tazi to attend the Sufi Nights after the main evening concerts. This is the headquarters of the Festival, and will house the art exhibition featuring painter Mohamed Bennani. For the Rencontres de Fes conference, make your way to the Batha Museum garden, which is also the venue for the afternoon concerts. Inside the Museum, visit the exhibition entitled Sufism: The Heart of Islam. The dawn concerts, starting at 04h45, at the Merinides Quarry poses a bit of a problem. The best thing to do is organise a taxi to collect you at around 04h00 on Sunday 3 June or Wednesday 6 June. It will be an easy 10 minute walk back from the quarry to the medina in daylight. Bab Boujloud Square and the Tagemouati-Bensouda Sports Complex are the venues for free public concerts. Children’s events take place at Al Houria and Al Qods complexes.

There’s a good medina map at www.fez-riads.com


Festival Tickets

While you can book online at www.fesfestival.com, you can also contact Objectif Maroc at objectif_naima@menara.ma or phone +212 (0)35 65 28 16/17/18.
You’ll have to visit the Objectif Maroc offices to collect your tickets – beware of long queues, so allow plenty of time. You can find the office at 9 Rue de Turquie in the new city. Should you book? It is possible to buy tickets at the door, but popular concerts could well be sold out.


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Carnatic Music in Fez


An Indian vocalist from Mumbai has been invited to perform at the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music to be held in Morocco next month. Vasumathi Badrinathan is one of a wonderful mix of performers at this years Fes Festival of World Sacred Music and will be presenting a concert of Carnatic vocal music.


"It is a matter of great honour and pride to represent India in that part of the globe," Vasumathi said.

The Fes Festival has a long tradition of presenting Indian artists and Vasumathi joins the list that includes the late Ustad Bismillah Khan (1997), Begum Parveen Sultana, Ustad Dilshad Khan (1998), Aruna Sairam (2000), Afroz Bano (2001), Anurekha Ghosh (2005), Pandit Ravi Shankar, Anoushka Shankar (2005) and Sudha Raghunathan (2006).

Vasumathi will be accompanied by a violinist, a mridingam player and a morsing artist to the festival.

Other participants of the ten-day festival, which begins on June 1, include Barbara Hendricks from USA, Johnny Clegg from South Africa and Calire Zaramansky from France.


"I am happy that they have chosen me this year to give a performance for 70 minutes where I will be exposed to international audience," Vasumathi said.

About her current projects, the 40-year-old singer said "I have been doing collaborative projects with lot of classical musicians in France and am experimenting to infuse Carnatic music with French music."

Vasumathi has been performing widely within and outside the country for several years and has toured extensively in Europe and Asia Pacific countries. Apart from her concerts, her skill in presenting lecture-demonstrations and workshops has been well appreciated. Vasumathi is a recipient of the Junior Fellowship for music from the Ministry of Human Resources and Development, Government of India, awarded to outstanding young artistes. Vasumathi is the recipient of the title “Sur Mani” for her proficiency in music by the Sur Singar Samsad, Mumbai. Her music is often broadcast over the All India Radio, one of India’s strongest upholders of classical music.

Vasumathi has two classical music albums to her credit – Swara Dhwani and Tamil Padams. Vasumathi is involved in research work based on Divya Prabandham (Tamil poetry of the 5th – 9th century) and its relevance to music. Vasumathi has also presented several papers in various seminars.

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Sunday, May 20, 2007

The beautiful Moroccan countryside



Sometimes I think it is a shame that so many visitors to Morocco spend almost all their time in the cities or medinas. True, there is much to interest them their amidst the souqs, the historic monuments and wonderful architecture.

But the countryside is also worth consideration. It is an ever changing palate of colours and shades


Wild flowers and fields of colour.

And every now and then you will be surprised by something flying across your field of vision




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