The selling of Marrakesh - again

"Villa by sumptuous villa, the old-established foreign community in Marrakesh is selling its legendary houses" - Celia Brayfield, Times Online.

Back in the 1950s and 60s the adventurous moved in to Marrakesh and started renovating the old riads in the Medina. The trend gathered momentum and by the end of the last century a sizeable expat community was ensconced in variations of their Scheherazade fantasy. Wonderfully creative designers blended the cultural influences of their home countries with that of the Maghreb and some of the results were ( and are ) stunning. Some where not. But now a new wave of "A" list celebs are moving in, pushing prices up and once again changing the style and design of their new holiday homes. For those lucky enough to score an invite, expect Balinese artifacts, Tibetan Thankas, and Italian terracotta...

According to the interesting article by Ms Brayfield... The trend began a few years ago, when Sir Richard Branson bought a castle near Asni, in the Atlas foothills, complete with a warehouse of treasures from Africa and the East, from the Italian-born antique dealer Luciano Tempo. He made it into an hotel, the Kasbah Tamadot, that perches on a red crag above an infinity pool offering glorious views over the mountains. Now more and more sumptuous piles in prime locations are changing hands, including Bled Targui, owned by Princess Henrietta von Auersperg, and Le Verger de l’Etoile Filante (Orchard of the Shooting Star), which belongs to Frederick Vreeland, the former United States Ambassador and son of Diana Vreeland, the famed fashion-setter and Editor of Vogue.

The interest in Morocco that gripped home and property investors a few years ago shows no sign of easing any time soon. In fact with new TV programs such as those made with celebrity chef, Rick Stein and the remake of Brideshead Revisited which will feature some Moroccan locations, the interest could continue to grow. If this is so, then the prices in Marrakesh and surrounds will climb even further - and Fez will experience a more gentle upward pressure.

Read Celia Brayfield's article here: Times Online.



Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan reflections

Lynn Evans

Regular readers will remember that The View From Fez was supporting the sponsored trek to the summit of Jebel Toubkal to raise finds for the Fez Dhar el Mehraz (click for story).Lynn Evans Davidson has been enjoying Fez over the last few weeks and was kind enough to send us her reflections on her time in Morocco.

MESSAGE OF PEACE

Fès Festival of World Sacred Music has completed its thirteenth cycle. Its message is as always one of peace, dialogue and the harmonious and creative meeting of cultures. Its music reflects and embodies these values. Each of us treads our own personal path through the festival’s myriad of possibilities – the programmed and un-programmed. The message is transmitted through a rich and varied kaleidoscope of experiences.

This year the message was realised in yet another form, one which unexpectedly also created its own little media storm…

CREATIVE DIALOGUE

In February I held a short interview with Naima Lahbil, the director of the Fès Festival, for an article I was working on. During the post interview conversation we talked of my sponsored climb of Mount Toubkal (seen on this blog in April) and hence the story of my friends in the bidonville Association - Fès Dhar El Mehraz. She was intrigued and wanted to meet them.

Naima Lahbil, Director of the Fes Festival and Driss Bouabid co organiser of Festival in the City opening the children's gallery at Al Houriya cultural complex

Within a few days, a meeting had been held and consequently the members of the Association, in connection with Fondation Esprit de Fès personnel Amil and Zineb, officially took on responsibility for the planning, organisation and running of a ten day programme of events for children and young people, from all areas of Fès, as part of the Festival in the City.

They did a superb job! The programme of theatre, music and workshops, performed by and participated in by hundreds of children, filled the cultural complex of Al Houriya and Al Qods with a joyful buzz of creative energy and an astoundingly a high standard of performances throughout the festival time.

Naima was there at the beginning, to open the children’s art gallery and she was their on the closing night , which featured mime; musical theatre; Sufi music and singing; choral singing with instrumental accompaniement; and a pint-sized stand up comedian whose social comment and command of the audience had us laughing and crying at the same time. The audience filled the theatre - in terms of numbers, engagement and pure good vibrations.

It was the highlight of my 2007 festival journey. I was so proud and happy for the Association’s success but also because it was just so joyous - and such a powerful expression of those values at the heart of the Fès Festival.


A CALL FOR PEACE FROM THE CHILDREN OF FES DHAR EL MEHRAZ

Driss Bouabid, is musician; a musical director with the Association; and a key member of the Festival in the City organising team. He explained one of the songs composed by the members and children of Dhar El Mehraz to New York radio journalist, Rob Weisman of WFMU and Transatlantic Sound Paradise.

It is A CALL FOR PEACE.

“We are the children of the Universe.
We want peace.
The difference between the religions is not important.
The difference between the colours is not important.
What is most important is the Dream of Peace.
Why everyday are houses destroyed?
Why everyday are children killed?
And why is the voice of truth stopped?
We are the children of the world.
We give you this message to all governors of the world.
Let the smile be our friend!
Let us all live on this Earth in Peace!”


THE LITTLE MEDIA STORM

Rob Weisberg of NewYork Transpacific Sound Paradise and WFMU radio recording Driss Bouabid playing the oud at AL Qods

Rob Weisman has produced a Fes post mortem radio show, which is now on the web, featuring guests Judy Cantor Navas, Tom Pryor and Richard Gehr.
The playlist page with links is: http://www.wfmu.org/playlists/shows/23614.
The 10 minute feature on Dhar El Mehraz is at 1 hour 57 minutes into the 3 hour programme. He is planning a more detailed piece later on and features on his blog and website.

But Rob was just one among a number of journalists who approached me for an introduction to the Association and their work with the Fès Festival.

There was a 12 minute radio transmission produced by Daniel Brown for Radio France and a possible piece for the National Geographic website by Tom Pryor also of New York.
It is also to be included in features being written by Kirstin Barendson for “Yoga + Joyful Living” magazine http://www.himalayaninstitute.org/yogaplus and by Robert Landon who will probably do a story for the “Lonely Planet” website, as well as collaborating with Kirstin on a story for PBS Frontline World website http://www.pbs.org/frontlineworld.
Just today, award winning, UK based, DAB digital radio station – Passion for the Planet -
has shown interest in the story. www.passionfortheplanet.com

And there is a film! I spent the best part of 2 days working on this with Jake Clennel and his camera man Derek. Jake won the Edinburgh Festival Award for Best Documentary Film last year, so was fascinating to work with. He is directing and producing a film for a New York based digital broadband TV company, about the Association’s involvement in the Festival as well as more global coverage.


The interest focussed on inclusion - the very positive opening up of the Festival to the people of Fès, in particular the young and more marginalised sectors of society. As one journalist said : we love the Festival and all that it stands for but in terms of reporting, it’s great to have a new angle and one that is so valuable – particularly in the States. Because it not only shows the commitment of the Festival to realising its own message in its own back yard but it also portrays, especially to an American audience and post 9/11 New Yorkers, a positive image of a Muslim country. It’s the kind of portrayal that acts as an urgently needed counterpoint to the more negative images which come through the media.


INTERCONNECTION

For me the Festival opened at Bab Makina, with the arrival of the Princess Lalla Meryam and Queen Rania of Jordan, both incidentally very much involved in child welfare. It closed with performances by children from the rich and poor areas of Fès, on the final night of the Festival in the City organised by an Association which issues from a bidonville.

What an amazing symbol of interconnection!

Clearly this new initiative has been a great success in the living evolution of the Festival – way beyond expectations. And hopefully it is a direction in which the Festival, and Fès the Sacred City, will continue to evolve … in a form true to its roots.



Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Irish expat's body found

Police in Morocco have launched a murder investigation after the discovery of the body a Dublin man in Tangiers.

Andrew Sheehan, a married man originally from Santry, had been living in Morocco for the past few years and was reported missing last May.

A preliminary identification of his body was carried out today.


Minister For Foreign Affairs Dermot Ahern has been touch with his counterpart in Morocco in relation to the case.

The Department of Foreign Affairs said four people have been taken into custody as part of the ongoing investigation by the Moroccan authorities.

According to reports, Mr Sheehan's body was found buried in a Tangiers suburb and was exhumed in the presence of forensic experts and prosecutors

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

GB airways announces new flights to Fez

British Airways franchise airline GB Airways is introducing a new service - a non-stop service from London Gatwick to Fez, which will operate twice a week, and a three-times daily connection to Marrakech (one from Gatwick and two from Heathrow).

Other options open to travellers include links from London to Hurghada and Sharm El Sheikh in Egypt, and extra flights to Gibraltar.

"This winter we refocus on our core routes into North Africa and winter sunspots," said the airline's Alan McIntyre.

"Flights to Fez started two years ago and this year should see more people choosing to visit the lesser-known city whilst Marrakech builds on its position as number one tourist city in Morocco."

As it is a British Airways franchise airline, GB Airways' customer service at the airport is undertaken by BA staff. The airline offers online check-in and self-service check-in.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Important Sufi meeting in Fez

From June 27 - 30 the Moroccan ministry of Habous (endowments) and Islamic Affairs will organize, a meeting in Fez of the followers of the Tijania Sufi Brotherhood.

The event, to take place in the mausoleum of its founder Sheikh Sidi Ahmed Attijani, will bring together Sufi scholars and disciples of the Tijania Order from some forty countries.

A variety of themes will be tackled during this event including: "the personality of Sheikh Sidi Ahmed Attijani", "the Tijania Order, Characteristics and specificities", "the Socio-economic Role of the Tijania Order in Africa", "the Role of the Tijania Order in Promoting Relations Between Morocco and Sub-Saharian countries" and "the Tijania Order and its Role in Disseminating the Culture of Peace".

The Tijania Sufi Order, called after the name of its founder Sheikh Sidi Ahmed Attijani, is one of the most radiant pathways. It flourished throughout Morocco late 18th century. During the nineteenth century, the Tijania way spread throughout Africa and a number of leaders emerged.

This encounter is held in the spirit of Morocco's obligation to preserve and protect the tight links which have developed with the world through history, thanks to the Tijania Order. It is also part of its incumbent duty to protect Islam and its spiritual depth, as represented by the various Sufi paths and orders which have emerged in its territories.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

The U2 Fez sessions - a change in direction?

‘Can you believe this?’ asked Bono, at the end of the 75-minute set. ‘Isn’t that something else ?’

A few weeks ago we broke the news about Brian Eno, Danny Lanois and U2 being in Fez. Tne story quickly escalated and soon every music journalist and their dog was running with it, each bringing more and more detail. Some credible, some not. Anyway, with all the excitement over, U2 are back in Dublin and all that remains to be seen - or heard - is what influence ( if any) Fez has had on the band.

U2's riad courtyard in Fez

One event that certainly touched the band was the performance by the foremost female singer of Persian traditional music, Parissa, working with five very skilled instrumentalists (the Dastan Ensemble) at the Fez Sacred Music Festival. The performance was one of the afternoon events held in the beautiful grounds of the Batha Museum.

Parissa wows U2

Even Brian Eno, who in the past has confessed to having a real interest in Arabic music, was clearly stunned by the non 'verse, chorus, verse' approach and the fact that the form of the music is not a simple pop length tune. Parissa's first offering lasted 45 minutes. The second song - 30 minutes.

‘Can you believe this?’ asked Bono, at the end of the 75-minute set. ‘Isn’t that something else ?’

The French website U2 France in an article headed "Les voies impénétrables de la musique arabe" reports that Edge was amazed at the sheer musical dexterity of the players... Savouring music like this is one of the reasons the band chose this city to write music in, home as it is to the annual Festival of World Sacred Music. It’s a perfect setting to sample some indigenous North African music. ‘The Festival of Sacred Music was a big lure for us and for Brian who has been very interested in Arabic music for years,’ he says. ‘We felt we might meet some interesting musicians while here – and we certainly have.’

Brian Eno expands: "Whenever there was an aesthetic decision to be made we’ve asked, ‘How would it be solved in Arabic music?’ So that gives us another frame to think in - it doesn’t mean we always do what an Arabic player might have done but it gives us a different frame of reference."

In fact, he says, just coming to Morocco, after earlier periods writing in Ireland and France, has changed their approach to songwriting. ‘I’ve had this thing about Arabic music for ages, thinking that it’s where the next big future in fusion will come from – I’ve been saying that for about thirty years and finally I think it is coming true. ‘There are things I like a lot about Arabic music which are different to what we do in western music and so we have started trying to incorporate some of those elements. It is not a question of sounds so much but of different structural decisions about how things are made.’

Fans around the world will eagerly await the outcome.

The beautiful photograph of Parissa is by Catherine Bendayan

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Morocco's Hip Hop powers on.

Back in May we reported on the Mawâzine Rythmes du Monde’ festival in Rabat and the continuing growth of Moroccan Hip Hop music. Although some critics have said they think Hip Hop is likely to be a short-lived phenomenon, we are not so sure. Bands such as Zanka Flow, H-Kayne, Fnaïre, Kanka, Ma Yara Fusion and Bigg are powering on and even picking up international comment.

In a recent article Asharq Al-Awsat reported on conversations with musicians they had recorded during the Mawâzine Festival - it makes interesting reading.

According to Farid Ghenam, one of eight members that make up the Casablanca-based group ‘Ma Yara Fusion’, their music is a blend between traditional Moroccan and Western sounds. The group was awarded this year’s Mawâzine prize in the music category [the same award also went to ‘Hakmin’ from Meknes], and the reason behind its success, in Ghenam’s opinion, is that the group’s members exert all their efforts to deliver the best to their audiences. He affirms that audiences are able to discern between genuine songs and pretentious ones. Ghenam does not deny the role of the media in making these groups known; groups that have imposed themselves on the scene to fill the gap that already existed.

However, Zacharia Bnan, a member of the Bnan performance arts troupe, which performs folkloric Moroccan music, believes that the rap phenomenon in Morocco is a short-lived one that will soon disappear. He predicts that the people will get bored with such groups and ultimately seek tradition, which is embodied in the Moroccan music culture. Bnan, who spoke with confidence, said that his troupe wanted to emphasize the fact that Moroccan youth do not rush to imitate the Western tradition and that they were attached to their Moroccan identity.

For his part, 23-year-old Yousef al Fajri who is the accountant for ‘Hnouz’ group stated that young people nowadays prefer loud music. He said that this was the reason ‘Hnouz’ chose to play this type of music, and furthermore added that the lyrics of their songs were not a priority but rather that the melodies and rhythms came first.

Read the full article here: Moroccan Hip Hop


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fabulous Fez photo!

Browsing the blogoma today, we came across the always interesting blog of Purple Circle honcho - Louis da Fez. What caught out eye was the photograph of the ceiling of his main room. The photograph, taken by The View from Fez writer and photographer, Suzanna Clarke is stunning.

Later this year Penguin will publish Suzanna's much awaited book A House in Fez complete - so we are told- with more than sixty pages of photographs. We will bring you more information about the publication in a couple of months. But for now, enjoy this unique view of Louis' extraordinary ceiling.



Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Twenty-five groups perform at Essaouira Gnaoua Festival

Hamadcha Maallems, Mahmoud Guinea, Chérif Regragui and Kbiber on Tuesday shared the stage to set the tone for the 10th Gnaoua and World Music Festival.

The groups performed a complex liturgy called lila or derdeba. The derdeba is jointly directed by a maalem (master musician) at the head of his troop and by a moqadma, who is in charge of the accessories and clothing necessary to the ritual.

The lila ceremony calls up seven saints and supernatural entities (mluk) represented by seven colours, as (according to the Maghreb Arabe Presse) "a prismatic decomposition of the original light/energy" !

The festival, to run till June 23rd, will bring together 25 Gnaoua groups, 250 Moroccan artists and 150 foreign musicians, who will offer the audience a feast of world music.

The festival celebrates the art of Gnaoua, the descendents of slaves originating from Black Africa, who established brotherhoods throughout Morocco. They are made up of master musicians (maâlem), metal castanet players, mediums and their followers.

Photograph by All About Jazz.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Charity Concert on Sunday 24 June

At the concert, Qur’anic, Arabic, Moroccan, Berber, Gnaouan and African songs will be performed by the children of the Association De L’Amitie.

A not to be missed opportunity to experience ecstatic drumming and song. Mint tea will be provided by a traditional Moroccan Tea Maker.

All proceeds from this concert will go to the Association. Contributions are welcome, but not obligatory.

Directions: Take a petit taxi to R’cif and walk to Seffarine Square. Gather round the tree in Seffarine Square at 7.20pm where you will be met and taken to the venue.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moulds - A hidden danger of renovation in Fez

It may look very small and insignificant but mould can cause serious health effects. Recently one of the members of The View from Fez was infected by a red mould and was seriously ill with high fever, headaches, loss of energy and severe weight loss. Recovery took several weeks.

Red mould on new plaster in a Fez riad

One of the hidden dangers in any renovation process is contamination of the lungs by dust. Of even more concern is the fungal or mould growths that can appear on damp plaster in the first few weeks after it has been applied to walls. In Fez there are at least three recognised types of mould - blue, green and red. While all three can have negative effects on individuals, it is the red ( or pink) that is considered to be the most dangerous.

Red mould in a typical circle pattern

Unfortunately the plasterers will tell you that these growths on your plaster are temporary and not dangerous. This is wrong. All mould outbreaks should be treated seriously.

"Mould" describes a wide range of fungi found virtually everywhere indoors and outdoors. Mould can grow in and on plants, foods, dry leaves, other organic material, and in soil. In nature, moulds play an important role in helping break down, or decompose, dead material. Moulds produce microscopic cells called spores, which act like seeds to form new mould growths (colonies) when they find the right conditions. These spores are very lightweight and spread easily through the air. When moulds grow indoors, spores become concentrated in the indoor air, and can cause health problems when they are inhaled in large numbers.

Red mould on fresh plaster

Mould spores are tiny structures produced by moulds for reproduction purposes. They are so small that we can hardly see some of them even when magnified 400 times. One cubic meter of outdoor air may contain as many as 1,000,000 spores. The volume of air we inhale at rest is estimated at 10 litres per minute. Therefore, in an hour we inhale close to 600,000 spores. The air in some working environments including mouldy buildings may contain up to 1,000,000,000 spores per cubic meter of air. (source: Moldbacteria.com )

Symptoms of Mould Exposure:

Allergy symptoms are the most common health problem caused by exposure to indoor mould. Although other and more serious problems can occur, typical symptoms -- alone or in combination -- include:

* nasal and sinus congestion
* respiratory problems such as wheezing, shortness of breath, or other breathing difficulties
* cough
* sore throat
* skin and eye irritation
* eye irritation: red, watery, blurry vision, light sensitivity
* upper respiratory infection (including sinus)
* fever
* central nervous system problems (constant headaches, memory problems, mood changes)

There is a wide range of individual reactions in people exposed to indoor mould. For some people, a relatively small amount of any mould spores can cause health problems. Other people may only react when a large amount or certain type of spores are present. In addition, some types of mould can produce chemical compounds called mycotoxins, although they do not always do so. Moulds that produce toxins are common, but only a few may cause health problems. Some types of mould can cause more serious health problems, but this is much more rare. However, it is important to remember that all noticeable indoor mould growth (toxin producing or not) is potentially harmful to health and should be promptly removed.

The acute form is often associated with heavy exposures and characterized by chills, fever, malaise, cough, and dyspnea appearing 4--8 hours after exposure and is often confused with pneumonia. The chronic form is thought to be induced by continuous low-level exposure. Onset generally occurs without chills, fever, or malaise and is characterized by progressive shortness of breath with weight loss . Chronic infection can be confused with idiopathic pulmonary fibrosis or other forms of interstitial lung disease.
Long term exposure to excessive indoor mould growth may eventually become unhealthy for anyone. However, the following people may be affected more rapidly and/or more severely than others:

* infants and children
* elderly persons
* individuals with respiratory conditions or sensitivities such as asthma or allergies
* pregnant women
* persons with weakened immune systems (chemotherapy patients, organ transplants recipients, people with HIV infection, etc.)

Consult a medical health professional if you or a family member are having health problems that you believe are related to indoor mould.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Bellissimmo!

A very windy and cold Tuesday night saw Lumen and Khumari back at the Bab Al Makina for another concert organised by the Spirit of Fes Foundation. La Symphonica Toscanini and the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Choir were invited by the Moroccan Ambassador to Italy and supported by the Italian Embassy to promote dialogue between the two countries. This magnificent 100-piece orchestra and 100-voice choir performed Verdi's Requiem, and a difficult task it was.

The wind rattled the scaffolding supporting the lighting system, blew into the microphones despite baffling, knocked over the percussionist's music stand and caused havoc in the choir. The audience chatted, used their cellphones, applauded in the wrong places and quite a few left early - whether that was because of the cold conditions or that they didn't like the music, we don't know.

It was good to see Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Salma at the concert; she certainly seems to enjoy music in Fez. And The View from Fez team thoroughly enjoyed themselves too. Conducted by maestro Lorin Maazel, Musical Director of the New York Philharmonic, and with four soloists, the performance of this piece of Western classical music made for a very pleasant evening. Let's have more!

Naima Tagemaouti, Director of the Spirit of Fes Foundation, and Abdou Jaouhari announce the concert



words by Lumen
photos by Khumari


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Faces in the Medina ... Mary Finnigan

Mary Finnigan from Bristol in the UK has been the British representative of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music for the last four years.

When we said goodbye to her after last year's festival, it was with some trepidation as we wondered if she'd be here in Fez again. She'd recently been diagnosed with breast cancer and had delayed the start of chemotherapy to attend the Festival. Thus began a challenging period of chemo and radiotherapy, followed by Herceptin infusions every three weeks for a year.

But The View from Fez is delighted to report that Mary is coming through it all with flying colours and seems very well. She's staying on for a week's well-earned holiday in the medina.

Mary has been a journalist since she was 18. In 1968/69 she shared her home with the rock star David Bowie, helping him to re-launch his career with a folk club at a pub in Beckenham, Kent which morphed into the now legendary Beckenham Arts Lab. Mary has worked for The Daily Mirror, The Daily Express, The Sunday Times, Visnews (now Reuters TV), LBC/IRN, Thames News, TV-AM and the BBC. She is now freelance. Examples of her work can be seen at www.2write.co.uk

Mary finds Riad Lumen's courtyard perfect for her 5 Rhythms dance

Photos: Lumen

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Rest of the Fest

We reported recently on the first few days of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music. The View from Fez is delighted to have Mary Finnigan, representative of the Fes Festival in the UK, round up the last of the concerts and goings-on in the city.

Mary writes:
With only lukewarm enthuiasm, I went with Lumen and my partner Chris Gilchrist to experience Angelique Kidjo. We shoved and wriggled our way into seats close to the stage (and the loudspeaker columns). All around us (as usual) other members of the audience chattered, made and received calls on their mobile phones, smoked and moved around. Posses of teenagers roamed the aisles. Artistic Director Cherif Khaznadar pleaded in vain for people to turn off their phones. Then came a thundering crash of bass guitar chords and the dynamic Angelique strutted onto the stage and burst into song. With crew cut hair and dressed in a beige trouser suit, she appeared rather masculine -- but her voice, still powerful despite advancing years, was vibrantly female. Angelique's brand of Afro pop-rock does not align with my taste responses -- but it was not this mismatch which drove me from my seat. Lumen lasted for one number under the physical impact of grossly over-amplified bass and shrieking guitar licks. I stuck it out for two more, but the pain in my ears forced a retreat. Chris is made of sterner stuff and stayed in his seat until the last number, when he and many others were swept into ecstatic dance. Angelique worked the crowd like the seasoned pro she undoubtedly is -- and they responded. The finale ended up with a tightly massed crowd dancing with the star on stage. Chris was very happy when he joined us in the TV5 tent.

Chris flew back to the UK on Friday morning, so I turned up at the Musee Batha for the afternoon performance in a somewhat subdued mood. The Carnatic singer Vasumathi Bandrinathan seemed to echo my emotions. There's a sense of melancholy in her interpretations -- a yearning -- as if she is reaching out for the unattainable. South Indian music is radically different from the more familiar northern ragas, so at first I could not get a clear line on its message. It seemed to be a fusion of sub-continental styles. But gradually my analytical struggles gave way to the ebb and flow of the sound, with Vasumathi's fluid, velevety voice merging seamlessly with the drum and string accompaniments.

Two talented young women singers gave the final performances under the Barbary Oak on Saturday. Waed Bouhassoun from Syria seemed nervous at first, but soon settled into her set. She is an accomplished lute player and strikingly good looking. She reminded me a little of Anoushka Shankar but I ended up seeing her as a Middle Eastern folkie -- think a young Julie Felix with lute instead of guitar. Nadira Primatova from Uzbekistan has the makings of a substantial international career. She sings the songs of her native land with gusto and obvious enjoyment. I played my recording of her set to ethnomusicologist Tony Langlois after the show, because he missed it. "Wonderful music" he said. I agree.

Grand finale night with The London Community Gospel Choir was the usual raucous, stomping knees-up with all the old favourites. Cliched -- certainly -- but jolly good fun and very popular with the Moroccan audience.

Afterwards there was a no-expense-spared reception thrown by sponsors Accor and Sofitel at the Palais Jamai, complete with tables laden with magnificent food and drink, light shows and a six piece band. They tinkled bland jazz while early arrivals stalked stiffly formal in their suits and ties, tight skirts and high heels. Then the gospel singers turned up and took over the microphones. They were on a huge high -- mostly Essex girls and boys who love to party and without further ado, the atmosphere switched from sedate to rip-roaring. We boogied until 2.00am and my moment of surpise and delight came when festival Director General Naima Lahbil bopped beside me. "This woman has spirit" I thought, "this could be the start of something good."

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fes Festival so far ...

A sadly depleted View from Fez team has been attending the major Festival events. The opening evening was a glittering event complete with the Her Majesty the Queen of Jordan (pictured below) and Their Royal Highnesses Princess Lalla Salma (pictured above) and Princess Lalla Meryem.


Friendly waves and a request to meet the performers at the end were all nice touches. However, the evening failed to enthrall; Barbara Hendricks' voice isn't what it once was, and we didn't really need to sit through Stabat Mater again when we heard it at the same event last year. Her encore was a wonderful Negro spiritual song, and it would have been good to hear more of that from her.


Technically it appeared that the sound system was also not on a par with previous years, and the lighting design? Frankly not up to a teenage rock concert standard - certainly not suitable for a royal opening night.

Pink neon hallucination?

Saturday was a good day. Iranian Parissa and her Dastan Ensemble performed one of the highlights of the Festival and the Batha Museum garden was packed with punters. In the evening, Johnny Clegg held the audience in the palm of his hand. He's a good showman, and his excrutiating French endeared him to everyone. While his music may not be all that spiritual, it does have a message of tolerance and peace, and his Zulu dancing - and Zulu backing singers - were highly entertaining. It hit the spot - away went the stuffiness of the first night, with everyone on their feet dancing and singing along.

Sunday ... well, those of us who got up at 3.30am were mostly disappointed with the dawn concert at the Merinides Quarry. Yes, the horse was beautiful and obviously well-trained. Yes, it was a good idea. But the Sufi musicians Kudsi Erguner and Nezhi Uzel were playing for the horse, not for the audience, and there's only so much dressage at dawn that holds the attention. French members of the audience told of great Bartabas shows they'd seen before that included lots of horses and daring feats ... but this was sadly lacking. Lumen found herself looking at her watch and wishing she'd had time for coffee. A good touch was breakfast served after the show.

The Coro Gregoriano from Lisbon in the afternoon also failed to entrance. While Gregorian chant is a rigid form of music, there was no joy or animation in this concert, the singers were wooden and the conductor had an irritating style.

In contrast, Claire Zalamansky on Monday afternoon was lively and interesting with her range of Sephardic songs from Spain and France.

By far the most spiritually moving experience was the first ever performance of the Ayin-i Djem Sufi ceremony on Monday evening. A small audience sat hushed and overwhelmed by the seven whirling dervishes, musicians including the Pan-like Kudsi again, and the members of the Kadiria and Mawlawiya brotherhoods from Turkey. It's this and Parissa that stand out so far in this year's Festival.

Tuesday's Batha Museum concert featured Mauritanian singer Aicha Mint Chighaly and her ensemble. The audience were clearly happy with this offering. In the evening, Pakistani qawwals were thoroughly enjoyed. On Wednesday, a small (again) audience heard three Maghrebi women singing a rather 'popped-up' version of Arab-Andalous songs that didn't quite work.

Concerts at Bab Boujloud have been well-attended, especially when they feature local artists. Sufi nights draw lots of people, but certainly not the crowds of past years. The tea, soup and cookies stalls stand forlornly without customers.

We don't have figures, but it looks to us like attendance is down. Gone are the French (and other) intellectuals who used to attend Faouzi Skalli's Rencontres de Fes Colloquium. In fact, Faouzi's great contribution of starting the Festival 13 years ago along with Mohamed Kabbaj, doesn't even get a mention in the Festival literature or on its website. There's something missing this year ... something that just doesn't quite gel ... but we're not sure yet what that is.


PRESSING PROBLEMS

There has been a great problem with members of the press this year. From the audience's side, it is very irritating and distracting to have some guy with a huge TV camera come and spoil your view at a concert. One man on Monday afternoon got up and left in disgust at such behaviour on the part of a particular cameraman.

From the point of view of the press, it is very difficult to get the right shot if you can't get close to the stage. To not have a press area is a display of absolute ignorance in the modern festival circuit. Getting the press to attend your festival is your first goal - the second is LOOK AFTER THEM! The newspaper or magazine has spent a lot of money getting their top people there and they have to come up with the goods.

But the attitude of the Festival management is the most bewildering. On Sunday morning at the dawn concert, the audience was asked not to take any photographs. Why not? Yes, it was understood by most that flash would disturb the horse, and the press refrained from using flash although members of the public did. However, a leading Australian photographer was told angrily by Festival staff that they were sick of members of the press being there to make money out of the Festival. A weird point of view when the press gives such great coverage throughout the world!

This problem is found at many Festivals. It has to be dealt with, and soon, if the Festival wants press coverage, that is. Perhaps an area specifically for members of the press would be better for everyone.

Maroc Telecom - not very smart.

Maroc Telecom needs to lift its game. For the third time time in three months the district where we live has suffered an internet and phone outage. Why? Because someone (we suspect the same people) regularly steals several metres of bundled cables. The first time it happened we suggested to Maroc Telecom that they bury the cable in a pipe in a wall so as to make it safe. They said nobody was going to steal it again. It happened a month later

The second time it happened they said they would try putting it on a neighbour's roof. Not smart.

This time? The third time? Yes, back on the roof.

Now I know our neighbourhood is not Batha or one of the riad-packed gucci locations - but we do need modern communications. In our street there is a restaurant who needs to take bookings and if any of the other neighbours has an emergency they know they can use our phone. We have old people, people who get ill and young children who get sick... and, no, we are not corporate clients or high-end users - we are little people trying to help our community.

So, when we have the cable stolen we expect it repaired pretty quickly - after all, it is not rocket science. Nobody at Maroc Telecom could tell us why it took SIX DAYS!!! Yes folks, six days to fix a problem that could have been done in a couple of hours by a competent technician.

The really bad thing about this latest telecom failure was that it coincided with the start of the Fez Sacred Music Festival - so The View from Fez would like to apologize for not bringing you the same standard of photographs and behind the scenes gossip as we did last year.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Faces in the Medina - Christina Khumari

Christina Khumari is a goldsmith, artist and sculptor and for the next month or so she will be resident in the Fez Medina as a guest of The View from Fez.

While in Morocco, Khumari will be doing research into amulets and talsimans as a basis for a future collection of wearable small scale sculptures - with a focus on the magic and symbolism of various cultures. At a later date she will carry out further work on Celtic culture and Spanish Christian symbolism.

If anyone has knowledge of interesting talsimans or amulets, Khumari would love to hear from you. She can be contacted on email: ckhumari@gmail.com

Previous work

OUROBOROS" Made from a pound of solid gold, the serpent, sybolizing the continuation of life, death and regeneration on the material plane, rises from a three dimensional mandala of chakra symbols in rose, white and yellow gold.

Khumari making "Waiting on the World" Made from steel and glass, a web is strung on curving arcs to form a free standing sculpture.

Visit Khumari's website: KHUMARI

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Kiwis in Fez - exploring Moroccan cuisine

(From left) Helen, Bill, Peter & Lynde

One thing you can say about New Zealanders is that they are intrepid travellers. Usually shunning the large package tours they tend to tailor their travel to allow a great deal of flexibility. Two couples we met recently, not only plunged into the Fez Medina head first, but were game to try local cuisine at every level from the street to the fine restaurants.

Thami - Consistently the best street food in the Medina.

Peter and Lynde Evans from Fielding and Bill and Helen Cunningham from Auckland are seasoned travellers and this year, after a visit to Petra in Jordan and a stop over in Egypt, headed to Morocco, where we caught up with them having a quiet ale at the Hotel Batha.

Their first experience of street food was a meal at Thami's Restaurant - the tiny table on the street around the corner from the Bab Boujeloud. They pronounced the food "delicious" and (like all of us who dine there) loved the chaos of the street life that whirls around the location.

The "catch of the day"

Most New Zealanders love seafood and so it was little surprise the following night to find the party had navigated their way to La Trois Sources where they explored the menu and enjoyed a range of dishes as well as a couple of bottles of Moroccan wine.

By the contented smiles at the end of the meal, we suspect that this will not be the last time they visit Fez.



Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news