Sunday, June 28, 2009

Festival of Amazigh Culture



The 5th Edition of the Festival of Amazigh Culture takes place in Fez, 2-5 July 2009, Morocco. It is organised by the SPIRIT OF FES FOUNDATION, FES SAISS ASSOCIATION AND The SOUTH NORTH CENTRE, in partnership with The Royal Institute of Amazigh Culture and Foundation BMCE


THE 5th FESTIVAL OF AMAZIGH CULTURE IN FES

The festival is organized annually in an attempt to participatE in the national efforts to promote Amazigh culture. The main objective of this initiative is to highlight the historical and social significance of Arab-Amazigh cultural dialogue, and the role of culture in the process of democratization. The festival also aims to establish coherent strategies to consolidate intercultural dialogue, social cohesion, and democratic culture in the Muslim world.

The festival includes two MAJOR components:

- One devoted to the international conference on

“Multiculturalism and Democracy in the Muslim World”

- And another component devoted to the Amazigh music, arts, and poetry

The sub-themes of this conference are:

1. multiculturalism and political pluralism in Muslim countries
2. Democracy at the service of multiculturalism
3. multiculturalism, secularism, and Islam
4. modernity and social change
5. Multiculturalism, democratic culture, and Globalization
6. Multiculturalism and linguistic diversity
7. multiculturalism and artistic creation


The international conference will take place in the "palais des congrès" near the Wilaya of Fes, and the music concerts will take place at Bab Boujloud (8pm) and at Bab Makina (9:30 pm).
You are most welcome to attend. Entrance is free. Please bring your family and friends too.




Website: www.festivalamazigh.on.ma


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Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Morocco elects woman mayor for Marrakech


" I am honored to lead Marrakech city hall,I hope to be able to measure up to this new challenge " Fatima Zahra Mansouri
A 33-year-old lawyer on Monday became the first woman to be elected mayor of Marrakech, one of Morocco's biggest cities and a key tourist destination.

Fatima Zahra Mansouri outpolled veteran outgoing Mayor Omar Jazouli by 54 votes to 35 in Monday's municipal council vote, becoming the second woman to take a mayoral position in Morocco after Asmaa Chaâbi, mayor of Essaouira.

"I am honored to lead Marrakech city hall," Mansouri said. "I hope to be able to measure up to this new challenge."

Mansouri studied law in France, and is a daughter of a former assistant to the local authority chief in Marrakech, which has a population of more than one million.

"Her election reflects the image of a modern Morocco," said the secretary general of her Party for Authenticity and Modernity (PAM) Sheikh Muhammad Biyadillah.

Morccan woman voting

Following the June 12 local elections, PAM won 43 seats in Marrakech second to al-Ittihad al-Doustouri party, which won 50 seats.

PAM, despite ranking second, managed to ally with a number of parties and form a majority coalition of 62 members to support Mansouri.


Disputed candidacy

Prior to Mansouri’s election a number of Moroccan newspapers reported that parties allied with PAM refused to endorse Mansouri and had threatened to break away from the party if it continued pushing for Mansouri’s candidacy.

PAM’s coalition parties said Mansouri lacked sufficient public management experience and could fail to resolve major issues the city council may encounter, such as al-Maghribia and al-Marrakchia newspapers reported Monday.

The newspapers reported today that undisclosed political bargaining led the endorsement of Mansouri by PAM’s allies.

PAM was the biggest winner in June 12 municipal elections, taking 21 percent of the votes, edging out the Istiqlal party of Prime Minister Abbas al-Fassi.

The polls were a first electoral test for the PAM, a coalition of five small parties formed in 2008 by former interior minister Fouad Ali al-Himma, a friend of King Mohammed VI of Morroco.

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Thursday, June 18, 2009

Swine Flu in Morocco - Update


The Moroccan health authorities have confirmed eight A/H1N1 flu cases since the introduction of the virus in the north African country a week ago.

Seven of the eight patients came on flights from Canada between June 9th and 15th, and the eighth came from the United States, Health Minister Yasmina Baddou said before the weekly cabinet meeting.

The minister said all eight are being treated in the university hospitals of Fez, Rabat and Casablanca, and are in good condition.

The country have previously detected 19 cases suspected of bearing the virus since April 28, through the fever detectors, installed in the country's larges airports. Seventeen of them are tested free of virus, while results for the other two have not yet been released.

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Book launch at Café Clock


A reminder that Café Clock are holding the exclusive launch of Thomas Hollowell's book, Allah's Garden, this sunday at 5pm. Thomas will be reading excerpts from the book and then a 'Q & A' session followed by signing copies.

Following the lunch 3issawa will take over with music from 6.30pm..


There's also a competition: once 5000 books have been sold, there'll be a draw with a prize of a 10-night trip to Morocco. If you purchase the book from the publisher, you'll be entered automatically; those who buy it elsewhere can register for the draw on the sponsor's website here.


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Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Moroccan Cinemas: more Films, smaller audiences



The sad story about movie theatres in Morocco is that while they are showing more movies, the audiences are falling away. Abdallah Mchanna reports:


It seems that Moroccans are falling out of love with movie theatres. The tempo associated with watching films in these dark rooms seems to grow increasingly less attractive. The number of people who flock to see their favourable movies dramatically decreases. As a result, a growing number of cinema professionals are in the doldrums and press for urgent solutions.

In a country of more than 30 million people, there are currently only 50 cinemas, down from 70 just last year. They were 250 in 1995. Occupancy rate of these facilities during the last two years did not exceed 6%, according to the latest figures revealed to MAP by the Moroccan cinema centre (CCM), a state-owned body tasked to enhance and regulate the Moroccan and foreign movie-making industry in Morocco.

CCM Officials also say that during the first quarter of 2009, cinema-goers have generated as little revenue as 941,00http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gif0 dirhams (116,000 U.S. dollars), proportionally meagre takings, as regards to 2008, when theatre owners raked in 2,960,000 dirhams. The majority of cinema owners are complaining now that what they earn can hardly pay out taxes and employees, and if nothing is done, they may witness the gradual disappearance of all the cinema theatres nationwide.

Cinema theatres: past and present


According to CCM, the difficult situation of movie theatres is basically structural as it dates back to the early 80’s. At the time, theatres' owners had already been suffering from major setbacks, epitomized by high taxes that used often to engulf almost 50% of their revenue. Besides, the competent public authority had also frozen price tickets at a time relevant products, services and taxes were on the rise.

Given the little profitability of the business, cinema owners relied heavily on commercial international films that were often poor in quality and conveyed no real artistic message.

Since the 90's, things got even worse with the spread of film piracy and the appearance of TV channels that screen feature films day and night.

Today, a quick stroll in any Moroccan city suffices to see that thousands of illegal CD and DVD copies containing recent Hollywood movies are overtly sold for no more than five dirhams (slightly over half a dollar). The proliferation of these cheap film outlets contributed significantly to the natural and drastic shrinking in cinema audience.

Now, the few theatres that still survive are under threat of bankruptcy, and closure. Professionals hold that in the absence of an urgent and genuine political will and strategic approach to be devised by both the public authorities and the sector's professionals, movie theatres will be obliged to put the kibosh on.

The bothering paradox

The miserable situation that characterizes owners of cinema theatres stands in the opposite trend of the volume of national and foreign films produced in Morocco.

Due to its natural assets and the administrative and tax incentives, Morocco has for years served as the backdrop for blockbuster films like "The Sheltering Sky" (1990) by Bernardo Bertolucci; "Alexander" (2004) by Oliver Stone and "Babel" (2005) by Constanza Perales. Director Ridley Scott has a particular fondness for shooting films in Morocco, with "Gladiator" (2002), "Kingdom of Heaven" (2005) and "Body of Lies" (2008). Meanwhile, since 1958, about 200 feature films were shot by Moroccan film-makers, with 40 being released in 2008.

Yet, many of the cinema professionals maintain that the evolution of home-made and foreign productions have paradoxically proved incapable of bringing to a halt the decline in cinema audiences throughout the country and also unable to fend off competition from satellite TV and bootlegging.

A re-launch in the wind

From an CCM point of view, there is no doubt that the Moroccan authorities consider the film industry a "serious matter," and grant it an undeniable support through a state fund, established in 1988 to assist financially a selection of films and cinema theatres. In 2008 the fund earmarked to Moroccan film producers the sum of 60 million dirhams (5.45 million Euros).

Many theatre owners complain that the government policy in dealing with their alarming situation is not enough. The sector’s professionals often report that the government should intervene as it did to enhance the sector of textiles and tourism. In other words, more public cash should be put in cinematographic infrastructures.

Aware of these expectations, the government has in fact recently offered the conclusion of contract-programme with the movie-making professionals.

Under this draft agreement, which covers the 2009-2014 period, the professionals are called to adopt a new strategy by helping construct multi-screen cinema complexes, equipped with high technologies and mostly offering parallel entertaining activities such as coffee shops, halls of exhibitions and cultural clubs. Focus is also centred on the quality and diversity film materials to be presented in these complexes.

This draft agreement, which is being supervised by the Ministry of Communication and the professionals of the sector, aspires to constitute a crucial alternative solution to stop the bankruptcy of threats facing many movie theatres, and jump-start a flourishing movie-making industry nationwide.

To capitalize on this project, professionals are urging for further efforts towards more tax incentives, bigger cash assistance, and, above all, efficient measures to crack down of film piracy.

With these objectives reached and high quality films and screens available, they assume with certainty that the public will reconcile with film-going habits.

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Moroccan artists at the Venice Biennale


Fathiya Tahiri and Mahi Binebine are the artists representing Morocco at this year's Venice Biennale. This is a return for Fathiya, who also exhibited at the 51st Venice Biennale back in 2005. The exhibition has been very popular and is beautifully mounted in an old church. The View from Fez made the journey to Venice and here is our report.

Sculpture by Fathiya Tahiri

The Morocco Pavilion at Biennale 2009 is in an extraordinary position in the centre of the most popular tourist area of Venice. This has meant that the Moroccans have had a much wider exposure than many of the pavilions in the actual Biennale site.

Fathiya Tahiri

Fathiya Tahiri and Mahi Binebine, though both linked to the material use of painting, during their expressive training, have also developed different approaches in the field of sculpture.

Fathiya Tahiri began on the artistic scene with a vast production of jewel sculptures, then translated this skill into painting, in countless expressive variations.


Her canvases reveal an attentive scanning of colour which prefers bright pure tones, giving life to extensive descriptive formulae that are inspired by the emotions of the artist, sensitive to intimate perceptions.


A border line in which the artist’s brush insists with a singular expressive force on a timbre of colour, creating fascinating backgrounds that then become the metaphor of an existential condition. Fathiya Tahiri brings about an aesthetic revolution, hovering between an idea of beauty seen as loyalty to an uncorrupted model and the study of new forms, seeking the
unquenchable need for poetic renewal, the intimate essence of art.

Fascinating images, captivating the beholder with the lyrical atmosphere that emanates from their harmony of colours, spring from the imagination of Mahi Binebine. They are often silent masks or trapped figures. They are the same ones that the artist tells us about in his novels, desperate journeys yearning to ask fate for a second chance. Binebine’s work has a formal neatness interrupted by melodic colour combinations created using pure pigments applied directly on the canvas and then skilfully modified by the hands of the artist or by extreme actions that burn the surface. So pure colour may just as easily be silent language, a means of detaching sensations or an element of disturbance.

Art, literature, topical events and tradition live side by side in the works of these two artists. Because in the centre of their art there is always a state of tension involving the natural, primeval world that man too frequently ignores, ill-treats or insults.

Details:

Open to the public: 7 June – 22 November 2009; opening hours 10.00 am – 6.00 pm
(closed on Mondays – except Monday 8 June)
Venue: Chiesa Santa Maria della Pietà, Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 3701, 30122 Venice
Artists: Fathiya Tahiri, Mahi Binebine
Curator: Paolo De Grandis
Commissioners: Dr. Mohiedine El Kadiri Boutchich, Consul General of Morocco in Milan;
Paolo De Grandis, Director of Musée Hassan - Rabat
Deputy Commissioner: Carlotta Scarpa
Organizer: Arte Communications (www.artecommunications.com)
In collaboration with: Consulate General of Morocco in Milan
Under the patronage of: Musée Hassan, Rabat


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Moroccan Election Results



Interior Minister Chakib Benmoussa announced the results of the June 12th local elections on Saturday. He praised the turnout, 52.4%, up from 38% in the legislative elections of 2007, as well as the dramatic increase in the number of women elected, which has increased from 127 in 2003 to 3.406 in this year’s elections.

As anticipated, the newly formed Party of Authenticity and Modernity, PAM, had the strongest showing, winning 6,015 or 21.7 percent of the 27,795 available positions.

PAM was followed by the ruling Independence party, Istiqlal, with 5,292 seats or 19 percent of the vote. RNI followed with 4,112 seats or 14.8 percent, then USFP with 3,226 seats or 11.6 percent. Mouvement Populaire, MP, gained 2,213 positions or 8 percent of the vote.

Perhaps the most surprising result was the sixth place finish of the leading Islamist party, the Party of Justice and Development (PJD) who garnered only 5.4% of the vote or a little over 1,500 seats. The UC took 4.7% of the vote or 1,307 seats and the PPS received 4% of the vote or 1,102 seats.

Although the elections have been largely declared free and fair by international observers, accusations of illegal conduct abound.

In Fez medina, one rumor claims that ballots from the 2007 elections were found in polling stations across the city. Old ballots are sometimes used to buy votes. This can occur either when a party obtains a blank ballot or has an old ballot from the previous year. They select their own party and then give it to a voter. If the voter places that ballot in the box, but then returns with his blank ballot from the current year, the party can be assured that he has voted for their party and he can be paid. Because uncontested ballots are burned following the counts, such accusations cannot be confirmed.



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Thursday, June 11, 2009

Moroccan elections


A small USFP (Union Socialiste des Forces Populaires) rally. Their symbol is the rose.


Today registered voters across the country participate in communal or local elections. At stake are local bureaucratic positions, with a term of 6 years. As a result, the Medina is teeming with party “militants,” supporters of every age who go door to door handing out fliers, carrying posters and causing copious traffic jams.

Despite this show of force, Moroccan political parties face a formidable challenge in mobilizing voters. The political system is extremely fragmented, with more than thirty parties. Multi-party elections have a brief history in the country. If the last election is any indication most Moroccans have little interest in the polls.

In 2007, legislative elections drew only thirty-eight percent of registered voters . Of those who voted, nearly a fifth left their ballots blank. This low turnout was an unexpected conclusion to the extensive ‘get out the vote‘ campaigns by local parties and voter education drives organized by the Ministry of the Interior, who oversees the elections.

In a country with high illiteracy, party symbols take on increased importance.Some of the significant parties advertising on this wall include: PAM (the blue tractor), PJD ( the black lantern), and Istiqlal (the scale).

Every election has its controversy. This year, the political party PAM (Parti d’Authenticite et Modernite) has been the centre of attention. The party, recently formed by a friend of the King, Fouad Ali El Himma, has been building its base by recruiting prominent members of the other parties. Many Moroccans believe PAM to be unstoppable because of El Himma’s connections to the monarchy and his assumed ability to gather information. The party hit its first obstacle two weeks ago when the Interior Ministry decided to enforce Article 5 of the Electoral Code, which prohibits parliamentarians from switching parties except during elections. Because legislative elections will not be held again until 2012, prominent legislators are now prohibited from defecting to PAM in order to strengthen the party’s chances at the local level. Many parties complained that the Interior Ministry’s hesitation to enforce the code was due to El Himma’s relationship with the monarchy. In response, PAM joined the opposition.

Some fear PAM’s connections and extensive political network combined with its recent origins and consequently lack of political baggage will assure its victory today. Others believe the Islamic party PJD will triumph on their platform of honesty. Either way, the elections are likely to mark a significant shift in the political life of Morocco.


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Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Fez: City of Festivals



The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music might only just have finished, but there are plenty of other cultural events to keep you busy for the rest of the year.

Fondation Esprit de Fès


The Spirit of Fez Foundation has three objectives:
- to boost the image of Fez by valuing its cultural life, events and artistic creativity
- to develop and make more accessible information on the city's culture
- to promote Fez internationally on a cultural and artistic level

To this end, events for the rest of 2009 are:

25-27 June
International Forum of Mediterranean Women (see our article here)

2-5 July
Amazigh Cultural Festival: features music, poetry and thought from the Amazigh Berber people.

23-27 September
Slam&Klam Festival: innovative artistic festival featuring artists in residence, poetry, videos, workshops and improvised music

October
Fez Culinary Art Festival: not only Moroccan cuisine, but input from Japan, Greece and Spain too.

13-15 November
Fez Jazz Festival. Yes, it's got a new name, we're pleased to note. And a more ambitious programme encompassing not only the medina but the whole city.

15-17 November
Forum of the Alliance of Civilisations & Cultural Diversity



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Homestays in the Fez Medina


A new project to promote homestays in the Fez medina has now been launched. Helen Ranger takes a look.

Long mooted, this idea gives visitors the chance to stay with a family in a traditional house, and take part in the everyday life of the medina. Ziyarates Fes is now operational, but it's taken some time for all the aspects to be brought together into an opportunity for families to contribute to the preservation of the medina, not only physically, but to share the soul of the city in a spirit of openness.

Thirty families have been carefully chosen to take part. The Conseil Regional de Tourisme (CRT) has drawn up a code of ethics and the criteria for selection. They've also set up a website, and made a promotional film that's been shown locally and in France. Virtual visits to the houses are available on the website.

The Agence de Developpement Social has provided training for the families, including hospitality, security, tourism, hygiene, culture and spirituality, and communication. Where necessary, families have been given loans to allow them to furnish and equip their homes ready for foreign tourists.

Development Director, Layla Skali, reports that the project has already won the Couleur Trophy at the Salon Riad Art in Marrakech. This prize is awarded to Moroccans who participate in the preservation of their heritage. The organisers are now considering this as a pilot project that could be extended to all the historical cities in Morocco.

And the price is right, too. As an example, take a look at the Mostakim family house in Laayoune. They have two family-sized rooms available, each with a double bed and two single beds. At Dh350 for two people or Dh450 for four, including breakfast, it's a good deal.

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Monday, June 08, 2009

Riad Les Oudayas, Fez Medina



It's a while since we visited Riad Les Oudayas in Ziat, but The View from Fez team popped in last week to see the new improvements to the guesthouse.

the courtyard

The lush plants in the courtyard are much bigger since we saw them last, and provide ample shade. Carpets cover the zellij. Owner Fouad Loudiyi has made big changes: he's added a plunge pool in the patio and made one of the ground floor salons into a large library, bar and media centre. The other salon is a lounge and dining room. There are no bedrooms around the ground floor patio now, just five suites upstairs, some of which have their own terraces. The roof terrace has been refurnished, but of course has the same wonderful views.

the courtyard pool

the library

a suite

There are also new kitchens, as Riad Les Oudayas is well known for its good food.

one of the kitchens

One thing Fouad hasn't changed is the fabulous hammam. In earthy tadelakt tones with arches and a deep pool, it's pure delight. There's a massage room, too.

the hammam


Fouad is a Paris designer who hails from Fez, and his superb flair shows throughout this wonderfully peaceful riad guesthouse. His sister Houda runs the guesthouse.

For more information, see the Riad Les Oudayas website, or book through Fez Riads.


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Sunday, June 07, 2009

Mediterranean Women Forum in Fez



The 4th annual International Forum of Mediterranean Women will be held from 25-27 June at the Palais de Congres in Fez.

Countries participating in this Forum include those bordering the Mediterranean as well as the United States, Finland, Canada, Belgium, India, Iran, Sierra Leone, Ghana, Senegal, Algeria and Mauritania. There will be simultaneous translation of the proceedings in French, Arabic and English.

Held in association with the Spirit of Fes Foundation, Fes Saiss, the ISIS Centre for Women and Development, and the University Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah, the Forum's Director is Fatima Sadiqi, who is Professor of Linguistics and Gender Studies, Director of the ISIS Centre as well as Director General of the Spirit of Fes Foundation.

Fatima Sadiqi

The full programme will shortly be available at www.espritdefes.com. The theme of the Forum is Women and Knowledge in the Mediterrean. Here's an idea of the topics to be discussed:

- A Mediterranean Union and the rights of women in Europe and the Mediterranean
- The added value of political awareness of women in the region
- Economic knowledge and awareness in women
- Women and legal rights
- Women and academic knowledge
- Women, translation and literary knowledge
- Women and religious knowledge
- The problems of female migration in the region
- Women, genre and history
- Women and technology
- Women and writing

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Saturday, June 06, 2009

Fez Festival round-up


At first glance, this year's Fes Festival of World Sacred Music's programme didn't seem all that exciting. But in fact it turned out to be one of the more successful festivals in recent years.

The Fes Meetings were reported to be informative and inspiring and the Festival in the City drew the crowds. The opening concert at Bab Makina by Marcel Khalife, while criticised by some as being 'not spiritual', was a huge success and a much more festive event than many in the past.

Our pick of the highlights include the Corsican group I Muvrini, Keyvan Chemirani's fusion of music from Morocco, Spain and Greece and the Razbar Group from Iranian Kurdistan.

Perhaps the most important innovation was the addition of side screens at Bab Makina to benefit not only those sitting further back, but also wonderful for close-ups of the artists. The video producer did a good job. Common features at large concert venues around the world, these screens are a most welcome addition. We also had a new Arabic/English announcer at the evening concerts, whose English was markedly better, though she could still do with a better-written script.

Artistic Director Gerard Kurdjian and announcer Nadia Lazrak

Audience behaviour was markedly better, with fewer people speaking on their cellphones during concerts, though the phones were still on for taking photos and sending text messages. We only spotted one altercation between an audience-goer and a photographer.

Marked by cold, blustery evenings, this festival saw its share of peculiar behaviour with one woman having a manic episode during a concert, a German man with his dog in a specially-designed backpack, and if you weren't wearing silver, you just didn't make the grade. Organisers had some headaches with three changes to the programme - two of them last-minute when gospel singer Marwa Wright had a heart-attack and was replaced by cousin Patricia Wright, and when Loreena McKennitt had to cancel. She was replaced by Toumani Diabate of Mali, which made for a rousing final concert. Organisers and locals were rewarded by an extra, free concert from Sami Yusuf given to the people of Fez in Boujloud Square on the last night.

All in all, then, a successful Festival. The View from Fez team thanks the organisers for the opportunity to report on the Festival and is looking forward to next year.

The dates of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music next year have been announced:

4-12 June 2010


We apologise for the lack of photographs: our favourite photographer had to leave Fez and missed the last two concerts. Photos will follow as soon as possible.

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Toumani Diabate at final Fez concert


From the moment he stepped onto the stage, Toumani Diabate had the audience on their feet and dancing at the final concert of the Fez Festival at Bab Makina.

Diabate and his Le Symmetric Orchestra hail from Mali. Diabate is a griot, descended from 71 generations of musicians and is probably the greatest kora player today. The kora is a 21-string instrument unique to West Africa.

Diabate has played with some world-renowned musicians such as Ali Farka Toure and Salif Keita, and has been honoured for his contribution towards the development of the kora which is now played in many musical genres.

Artistic Director, Gerard Kurdjian, is to be congratulated on securing this superb artist for the final concert at the last minute, after Loreen McKennitt was forced to cancel her appearance. It was, perhaps, a more fitting finale - the audience were certainly appreciative.

The concert ended with the appearance on stage with Diabate of the Aissawa and Hamadcha Sufi Brotherhoods, an echo of last year's performance of the Hamadcha with Ismael Lo. In the words of the Festival organisers, "After nine days of travelling to all corners of the globe for sacred music, the Festival now returns to Fez and its secular traditions, with the music and songs of these brotherhoods that are part of the soul of the city and of Morocco."

We apologise for the lack of photographs: our favourite photographer had to leave Fez and missed the last two concerts. Photos will follow as soon as possible.


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Iranian Kurds provide colour at Fez Festival


The Group Razbar gave a lively performance of songs of the Brotherhood of Ahl-e-Haqq ('People of Truth') at the Batha Museum and the audience thoroughly enjoyed this final afternoon concert.

The troupe encompasses women as well as men, an unusual configuration for Sufi groups. The the women were brightly dressed in flowing dresses and headgear and occasionally got up to dance.

The main instrument is the tanbour (hand drum), and there was also the kamantche (stringed instrument), ney flute and the reedy dozal clarinet. They were put to good use in the exuberant rendition of Dhikr (remembering God).

We apologise for the lack of photographs: our favourite photographer had to leave Fez and missed the last two concerts. Photos will follow as soon as possible.

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Sami Yusuf announces free Fez concert


Sami Yusuf at Bab Makina last night.

A free concert by Sami Yusuf will be held at Bab Boujloud at 10.30 this evening. The concert was announced at his wildly successful concert last night at Bab Makina.

This is a major plus for the organisers and for the people of Fez who were unable to get tickets to the main festival event. Because of the huge numbers expected to attend, it is suggested that you get to the square outside Bab Boujloud in plenty of time.

The generosity of Sami Yusuf in making this gesture will even further enhance his already massive reputation in Morocco.



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Friday, June 05, 2009

Sami Yusuf - sacred pop?


The capacity crowd at Bab Makina.

If there was any need of proof that Sami Yusuf is the most popular pop star in Morocco, it was only necessary to count the heads at the Fez Sacred Music Festival. The Sami Yusuf concert was an absolute sell out and such was the demand that the organisers could have sold the tickets several times over.



The Guardian
says Yusuf "has good claim to being the most famous British Muslim in the world". In 2006 Time Magazine called him "Islam's biggest rock star". (For some reason the festival programme had him as "Yussuf", despite his preferred "Yusuf".)



Singing and speaking in English was a big plus for many in the audience who have struggled with the French, Serbian, Italian and Arabic all week! Naturally Sami Yusuf also sang in Arabic, but when he did it was songs that were well known around the world.

The only downside of putting on a pop star at a sacred music festival is that the audience acts as if it is a rock concert. Within minutes of Sami Yusuf starting into his second song the front rows resembled a mosh-pit. All good fun.

Sami Yusuf was born in 1980 in the city of Tehran, Iran. His parents moved to Britain when he was three, and he was raised in West London. At a very young age he started to play various musical instruments and was enthusiastic about singing and composing. He was accepted as a composition student at the Royal Academy of Music in London.

In addition to his education in Western harmonics and composition, Sami has a solid understanding of the Iranian and Middle Eastern modes (or Maqams) and is thoroughly acquainted with both East and Western musical traditions - all of which added up to a musician who shredded the elitist tag that the festival has suffered from in the past. And who said pop can't be sacred?

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Swiss ensemble charms Fes Festival



The Elyma Ensemble from Switzerland provided one of the most delightful and animated concerts of the Fez Festival at the Batha Museum on Thursday afternoon.


Founded in 1981 by Argentine Gabriel Garrido, the ensemble specialises in music from the Renaissance and Baroque periods. This afternoon they delighted the audience with a rendition of Monteverdi's Selva Morale Spirituale, written around 1640.

Gabriel Garrido


five male voices

The ensemble comprises a group of five male voices, two sopranos and a fair number of musicians that were a tight fit under the oak tree at the museum. They performed some spiritual madrigals in Italian, then moved on to sacred songs, hymns, psalms and motets in Latin. There were some interesting instruments including a harp:


The Festival usually features a concert of Baroque music as it's so popular. This one, of slightly earlier music, was greatly appreciated by the audience.


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Thursday, June 04, 2009

A Strange Day for the Serbians in Fez




For the group L'Ensemble Melodi from Serbia, the journey to Fez did not start well. somewhere in Brussels their baggage did a vanishing act. Under normal circumstances this can be devastating for any traveller but imagine if you are a performer and your baggage contained the costumes you intended to wear. Such was the fate of the Serbians.

Divna and L'Ensemble Melodi

However, with a burst of lateral thinking, and by crossing ecumenical frontiers, the Serbians realised they were not the only ones who liked to frock up and so headed to the Catholic Church in Fez. They emerged in splendid white robes of an approximate size to the ones they are used to.

Divna Ljubojevic's costume is more of a mystery. Either the baggage trolls had not stolen her luggage, or she found someone with a frock that fitted her amazingly. In any case by concert time she was squeezed into a red number that would have drawn attention in any part of the world.

Divna

Next was the question of noise. An announcement was made that the Serbians had asked for total quiet and stillness during their performance. No pesky photographers running around taking pics In fact all photographers were herded to the back of the crowd where massive telephoto equipment was employed. Worse was to come. Photographs could only be taken for twenty minutes. Why? As a sound technician explained before the performance began "They sing very quietly." Really? Or was it that didn't want too many photographs of Serbian Orthodox singers in Catholic clothes?

But then things turmed really strange. As Divna and L'Ensemble Melodi began, a women in the front of the audience had an "episode" that resulted in her moving in front of the audience waving. Then in the silence a metal book stand crashed to the zellij. Paper blew across the front of the stage and to cap it all off, a large branch snapped from a tree behind them and crashed to the ground.

However, our stalwart Serbians continued with beautiful vocals and were rewarded with very generous applause from an appreciative crowd. There was only one mystery left to explain. The programme notes listed Divna and two men and another woman. A quick check on stage however showed two extra men. Listening to thier fine singing we can assure you they were not baggage handlers from Belgium! We suspect they were simply missed from the programme.

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St John's Gospel at Fez Festival



Thursday night's concert The Gospel according to John at the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music attracted a small audience on a cold a blustery night.


This was a pity, because the Youth Orchestra of the Mediterranean Provence-Alpes-Cotes d'Azur worked hard to present an exacting piece by the Syrian Abed Azrie. The work for soloists, choir and orchestra, was sung in Arabic. Azrie brought together eastern and western instruments (for example lute and accordion, ney flute and xylophone) and amalgamated Eastern, Christian and Muslim liturgies.



The Youth Orchestra was conducted by Alain Joutard. It provides young musicians of the Mediterranean region the opportunity to perform professionally and experience life as part of an orchestra in rehearsals and concerts.


And, on a social note, seen at the concert were:

photographer Suzanna Wyatt, on her last night at the Festival

Jess Stephens of Culture Vultures

Jean Dedolin of the French Institute in Fez

And finally, a quiz from our very own fashion pundit, Dominique Niceboites: Whose shoe is this?



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A Cat's Tale in the Fez Medina


No-one coming to Fez can be unaware of the number of cats in the Medina. The poor condition of some cats can arouse compassion in the most hard-hearted. Sometimes a little more is needed. Suzanna Clarke shares her latest cat tale with The View from Fez.

Hurrying to an appointment one morning this week in the Fez Medina, I barely gave the little black kitten huddled in a doorway in the Talaa Kebira a glance - until it looked straight at me. Then I gasped in shock. One of its eyes had the worst infection I’d ever seen; bright red and hugely engorged, protruding about two centimetres from its socket. The other tiny green eye just gazed ahead helplessly.

A passing tourist and I exchanged horrified looks and I knew we were both thinking - what can I do? There are thousands of street cats in the Medina, and kittens are a common sight; particularly at this time of year. I’ve seen many deserving cases I’ve had to harden my heart to.

I wasn’t in a position to rescue it, I reasoned. My husband and I were about to leave Fez for a while, and others would be caring for our house. It wouldn’t be fair to ask them to also look after a desperately ill kitten.

Going about my business until the late afternoon, the image of the kitten and its awful eye haunted me. I made a deal with myself. If I went back and it was gone, so be it. If it was still there, then I would have to do something about it. Just in case, I took a basket with me.

So I found myself trudging in the heat, around the Atlas district of the Ville Nouvelle, searching in vain for a vet. The pathetic mews coming from the basket spurred me on. It was late in the day, and at the first two surgeries the vet had already left. The assistants told me to go elsewhere.

The last vet was difficult to find. I asked a young man on the street for directions and he offered to show me the way. When we reached the vet he also came inside.

The vet was a man with a kindly expression. When I explained I wanted him to put the kitten down, he shook his head. “I can fix it,” he said in French, and explained the operation of removing the eye and suturing it. He also mentioned it would cost 700 dirhams. I gulped.

He appeared extremely reluctant to put the animal down. “It’s not a good thing to do in the eyes of God." If I wanted to take it to the American Fonduk they would do it, he explained. But that would mean keeping the kitten for a night – after which I knew I wouldn’t be able to put it down.

“But who is going to look after it if it has this operation? I asked. “I am leaving Morocco in a few days.” We all stared at the tiny black bundle on the operating table, suffering through no fault of its own.


“I will look after it,” announced the man I had just met in the street.

“Are you serious?” I asked.

“Yes, I will look after it,” he replied emphatically. “As God is my witness, I will feed it le petit dejeuner, dejeuner and diner every day.”

I had no idea who this man was, I explained to the vet . “I have only just met him, but if he really wants to take the cat, I will pay for the operation.” At least it would have the chance of life.

The would-be cat rescuer was Si Mohamed. After giving the vet his contact details, he showed me the restaurant where he worked. The staff may have thought I was there for another reason, because they were quick to tell me he is “a very responsible man.”

“That’s good,” I said, “because he is about to look after a cat”.

The next day I visited the restaurant with my husband, and Si Mohamed told us that the kitten was still at the vets’, as it hadn’t yet recovered from its massive operation.

Later that day Si Mohamed emailed us a photo. The kitten was groggy, but awake and on the mend. It may be minus an eye, but is one of the luckiest cats in the Medina to have been adopted by such a caring man, who showed compassion when it was most needed.


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Morocco in election mode



Election fever has gripped the Fez Medina. Large groups of young people in white hats and local candidates have been handing out fliers and parading through the streets with banners, attempting to whip up support for their preferred party in the local council (or communal) elections, due to take place throughout Morocco on Friday June 12.

Around 30 parties are set to compete for 27,000 rural and urban council seats across about 22,000 electoral districts. This election, a quota has been imposed on all parties to guarantee a 12 per cent minimum of female representation, and the voting age has been lowered from 23 to 21. As many of those campaigning have been in the younger age bracket, this should see a better turn out than at the last election which saw only at 37 per cent of the population at the polls.

The elections come in the wake of an amendment to the Communal Charter that organizes and determines the role of the communes. According to several analysts, it is intended to strengthen the political power of the communes, to reinforce their independence and to increase their accountability - and ultimately ensure good governance.

One of many election posters

The government has announced through the Ministry of the Interior that “all measures will be taken to prevent vote-rigging”, which has been a considerable problem in the past. In October 2006, more than 60 people were arrested in a government clamp-down on electoral fraud relating to the polls held the previous month.

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Wednesday, June 03, 2009

Corsica provides the "wow factor" at Fez Festival


I Muvrini - Magic from Corsica.

There were only five of them - a band from Corsica named after the small wild sheep of their home country, I Muvrini - but within moments of them beginning their performance, the audience at the Batha Museum in Fez knew that they were in for something special. The polyphonic harmonies produced by the four singers had a depth and earthy purity, while taking the listener to somewhere ethereal. Pure magic.

The first bracket of songs - Salve, Requiem, Kierie, Agnus Dei, Terzettu and Moita - were a perfect demonstration of the transcendent qualities of the human voice where the whole was greater than a sum of the parts. The addition of the cello was also superb.

Later in the concert Jean-François Bernardini was engaging in his spoke word contributions as well as the lighter material that he had written himself. But it was the spiritual material that the audience responded to with the most feeling - with one exception. This was the Corsican version of kareoke... where the audience followed cue cards and sang along. It was one of the few times we have ever heard an audience manage to sing in almost perfect harmony!

Corsican karaoke?

Fouzi Skali and festival president Mohammed Kabbaj enjoying the karaoke.

I Muvrini was formed in the early 1980s by the brothers Jean-François Bernardini and Alain Bernardini who were born in the village of Tagliu-Isulacciu in the north of Corsica. They are named after a type of wild sheep which live in the mountains of Corsica.

The Bernardini brothers were introduced to traditional Corsican music at an early age by their father, Ghjuliu, who was a well known poet and singer. They recorded their first single with their father in collaboration with the group Canta u Populu Corsu. Ghjuliu Bernardini died in December 1977 and I Muvrini's first album, I Muvrini ... ti ringrazianu, which was released in 1979, was dedicated to their father's memory.

In 2000, I Muvrini joined up with Sting to record the their most famous song, "Terre d'Oru" (English: Fields of Gold).

Throughout their career they have promoted the Corsican language and culture and have produced over twenty-one albums.

Fouzi Skali chats with oud player Yuval Ron who performed on Monday

Fred Sola enjoying the concert with Catherine.

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