Sufi study day in London

Morocco's ambassador to the United Kingdom, HRH Princess Lalla Joumala Alaoui, was guest of honour at a Study Day given by the Temenos Academy in London on Saturday 27 November. Faouzi Skali, the recently re-appointed Director General of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, was one of three eminent Islamic scholars who spoke on the topic of Ethics, Virtue and Spiritual Chivalry in the Sufi Tradition. Our northern correspondent Aurora Borealis reports.

Faouzi Skali and Princess Lalla Joumala Alaoui in London

About 100 people gathered at The Window in Islington, London, to take part in the study day. The Window is a centre dedicated to inter-faith and spiritual activities. It provides excellent facilities and employs chefs who lay on a delicious lunch.

The day was organised by Sir Nicholas Pearson, Chairman of the Temenos Academy (www.temenosacademy.org) and a long-standing supporter of the Fes Sacred Music Festival. Princess Lalla Joumala has been a member of Temenos for five years and is well known for her interest in Sufism.

The first speaker was Dr Leonard Lewisohn who is a Sufi practitioner and Senior Lecturer in Classical Persian and Sufi Literature at the Institute of Arab and Islamic Studies at the University of Exeter, UK. Dr Lewisohn is the author of numerous works on Sufism and co-translator with Robert Bly of The Angels Knocking on the Tavern Door: Thirty Poems of Hafiz (HarperCollins 2008). Dr Lewisohn gave a fascinating account of the development of chivalry in medieval Persia. He spoke about how the groups that espoused it have long since died out, but that the principles are embedded in modern Iranian society – for example hospitality, generosity, compassion and modesty. He highlighted these virtues as both the groundwork for spiritual growth and the characteristics that manifest as a result of contemplative endeavour.

Princess Lalla Joumala arrived for Faouzi Skali's speech, following a very tasty vegetarian lunch. Dr Skali spoke eloquently in English about how the principles of chivalry laid the foundations for modern civilisation – and that the Sufi way is relevant both at an esoteric level and socially. It provides inspiration, he said, so that practitioners can develop personal transformation which extends into their daily lives. Sufism, he said, has its roots in both contemplation and social action. He did, however, acknowledge that the modern world seems to be engaged in a conspiracy against spiritual life – ego, he said, is the veil that conceals the truth.

The final talk came from Dr Lloyd Ridgeon, Reader in Islamic Studies at Glasgow University, Scotland. He is the author of Morals and Mysticism in Persian Sufism:A History of Sufi-futwwat in Iran (Routledge 2010). Dr Ridgeon's contribution included a Powerpoint presentation illustrating the contemporary Zurkhaneh movement in Iran which has its origins in chivalry, but which today gives young men opportunities to practise a variety of physical exercises and skills together – under the leadership of a master. The disciplines they practise include stick fighting, wrestling, spinning (like dervishes), weight-lifting and postures that resemble yoga. This was fascinating insight into an ancient tradition transposed into a contemporary context. It echoes with the Falun Gong movement in China.

There were question and answer sessions. During one of them, Faouzi Skali was asked to recommend a daily meditation. His response was la illah ha illah la.

Fez Deli

Hot on the heels of the launch of Cafe Clock's cookbook comes a range of Moroccan preserves and oils now available at the Clock.

A combined effort by Cafe Clock's kitchen and Gail Leonard of Fez Foods, the range includes two types of olive oil from Moulay Idriss and Ksebi, almond butter and zmita (ground almonds, seeds and sugar). There are preserves such as balsamic, fig and ras al-hanout relish and watermelon molasses, and several jams including caramelised watermelon and mint, fig and hibiscus, plum and ginger, fig, lemon and orange marmelade, and saffron, orange and carrot marmelade.

The goodies are beautifully packaged and well-priced and will make good presents for the festive season.

Recipe for goat tagine

Here's a delicious recipe for cooking goat Moroccan-style. You could easily substitute lamb or mutton for goat. These quantities are enough for four people.

INGREDIENTS
1 tbsp olive oil
750g goat or lamb shoulder, deboned and cubed
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
1 can tomatoes
1 cinnamon stick
30g dried apricots, roughly chopped
pinch saffron
goat or lamb stock or water

SPICE MIXTURE
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground ginger
1 1/2 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp turmeric
1/2 tsp ground chilli
Salt and freshly ground pepper

GARNISH
a handful of finely chopped coriander
Harissa to taste
zest and juice of half a lemon
1 tbsp honey

ACCOMPANIMENTS
300g pumpkin, peeled, chopped into 1-2cm cubes and roasted in olive oil with a little seasoning.

METHOD
Mix all the spice mixture ingredients in a large bowl and toss the meat in the mixture until well coated.

Heat the oil in a tagine or large saucepan and when hot, add the onion to the pan and sweat for one minute or so until transparent.

Add the meat and garlic to the tagine and brown.

Stir in the chopped tomatoes, cinnamon stick, apricots, saffron and enough stock to just cover the meat. Bring to the boil then reduce to a slow simmer. Leave to cook for 1 to 1 1/2 hours or until the meat is tender, stirring regularly with a wooden spoon (add more stock or water if the liquid is below the mear). If the stew is too watery, drain off the excess liquid into a saucepan and reduce until thickened. Then return to the tagine.

TO FINISH
Stir in most of the chopped coriander, harissa (more or less to taste), lemon zest, juice and honey.

Garnish with roasted pumpkin and scatter over remaining coriander.



See all our Moroccan Recipes HERE !

With thanks to reader Damian.

On the Haj, small is a blessing

In many cultures being a dwarf has meant being the butt of jokes. However, for Muhammad Karaith it has made his pilgrimage to Mecca a lot easier. Much of this, it has to be said, is due to his extremely positive attitude and sunny disposition. From the Saudi Gazette in Mecca, Naeem Tameem Al-Hakeem reports:

Sarcastic comments, jokes and requests for photos from passersby did not bother Muhammad Karaith, a dwarf Moroccan pilgrim. Instead of cursing those who said things, including several officials who wanted their pictures taken with him, Karaith received them with a wide smile and great confidence that has no parallel.

All smiles in Mecca

Karaith, who is 3 feet 11 inches tall, was looking to see if he could spot a shorter pilgrim.  “I would say I am the shortest man in Haj unless I make sure that there is a shorter pilgrim than me,” he said. Karaith, who is 26 years, does not believe being a dwarf is a disability. On the contrary, he believes that it is a great blessing from God since he can finish his business in any government agency very quickly.He said he was the first pilgrim to complete the immigration procedures at the airport and pointed out that he gets top priority wherever he goes.

Karaith, who works as a farmer, is physically strong and performed most Haj rituals on foot; he walked all the way from Mina to perform the Farewell Tawaf of the Holy Ka’ba. He said he didn’t find any difficulty in the crowds because the pilgrims fully cooperated with him. Karaith said that because he quickly assimilates into any society, he leads a happy life.

Fez in stitches

The Urban Fabric project was showcased at Cafe Clock this weekend. Brainchild of artist Liz Kueneke and presented by Culture Vultures, the large piece of cloth depicts the streets of the western side of the medina.


Liz spent around 500 hours embroidering the streets of the medina onto the cloth for this contemporary community art project. Then she took to the streets around Batha and Bab Boujloud and asked local people how they felt about their city. Where do they live? Where do they work? Which places have special significance for them? Which are dangerous, or happy, or spiritually important? People were then asked to embroider special symbols that signified their answers.

The idea is to provoke dialogue among people, to get them thinking about their city. One person's significant place will be another's dangerous one. It was particularly popular with teenage boys and men, who were keen to mark their house or school or special places on the map.

In fact, this is what Liz has found in other cities: boys and men were keen to be involved in Bangalore in India, but in Barcelona, men don't do the sewing! She has also carried out this project in New York and Quito.

Once the project is complete, Liz plans to return to each city with the finished map and the videos she has taken of people interacting and sewing. She hopes to exhibit the map in each place.

You can follow The Urban Fabric on Facebook.

Photos courtesy The Urban Fabric.

Morocco's architectural heritage: Photography exhibition

Did you know that Casablanca was the first city ever to be planned with the aid of aerial photographs?

French architect Henri Prost, engaged by Resident General Lyautey, is famous for his amazing Mauresque buildings in Casablanca (see our previous story here).

Casablanca in the 1920s

Now a new photography exhibition tracing the architectural heritage of Morocco will open its doors on 22 November and run until 21 December. Organised by the Euromed Heritage project, Mutual Heritage, it will be held at the Ecole Nationale d'Architecture in Rabat and will feature 20th century photos showing aerial views and buildings of Rabat, Casablanca and Fez.

Fez, 1912

The exhibition, entitled ‘Patrimoine partagé’ – a shared heritage – aims to contribute to a better knowledge and appreciation of this cultural heritage. It will also serve as a resource for heritage professionals and teachers.

“This exhibition will especially make accessible to the largest number of people all the richness of the recent architecture in Morocco, which is the product of inter-cultural exchanges and the sharing of various technical know-how,” said ENA Director El Montacir Bensaïd.

The ENA has some 85,000 images in its archives, some of which will be on show.

The Mutual Heritage project aims to enhance the appreciation of 19th and 20th century Mediterranean architectural heritage, the product of rich inter-cultural exchanges, sharing of technical know-how and the modernisation of the urban fabrics of the south Mediterranean, a local process compounded by external inputs from Ottoman and European colonisation.

Euromed Heritage is a €17 million EU-funded programme which contributes to the exchange of experiences on cultural heritage, creates networks and promotes cooperation with the Mediterranean Partner Countries.

Fez passengers outraged by Ryanair

More than 100 passengers flying from Fez to Paris last week refused to leave an aircraft after it was diverted to Belgium, reports the Yahoo travel website.



The flight was scheduled to leave Fez at 7.15pm, but was delayed by three hours. By that time the airport at Beauvais near Paris was closed. The flight crew decided to divert the flight and landed at Liege in Belgium at around 11.30pm local time.

Passengers were furious. They decided to stay on board until someone agreed to take them to their original destination. They stayed on the plane for four hours in complete darkness, after the crew had left. They had no access to the toilets which had been locked, and no food or water. After long hours of negotiations, officials convinced them to leave the aircraft. Passengers were then asked to wait for buses to take them to Beauvais.

A firefighter told AFP: "The negotiation was so difficult that we weren't sure they would come out. People are obviously outraged."

HM the King pardons 184 convicts on Eid-al-Adha

HM King Mohammed VI pardoned 184 convicts on occasion of Eid-al-Adha (Feast of Sacrifice), according to a statement released by the Moroccan Justice Ministry.

Six inmates benefited from the pardon over their remaining prison term, while 96 others had their prison term reduced. Twenty people were granted pardon over their prison sentences, and six inmates benefited from a pardon over imprisonment terms while fines against them were maintained.

A prisoner was granted pardon over his imprisonment term and had his fine annulled, while fines against 55 convicts were suspended.

Palestinian outrage at Polisario "disinformation"

Spanish News Agency EFE Admits Publishing 4-year-old Gaza Photos from Pro-Polisario Source that Falsely Identified Victims as Coming from W. Sahara

Palestinian chief negotiator Saeb Erekat on Saturday condemned Spanish news agency EFE's "unacceptable and unfounded" publication last week of 4-year-old photos of Palestinian infants injured in Gaza which were falsely identified as photos of victims of Monday's unrest in Laayoune, in Moroccan Sahara. The false photos (see example below)  were printed in the major Spanish newspapers El Pais and El Mundo prior to a pro-Polisario demonstration this past weekend in Madrid.

"I saw the EFE's pictures; they well and truly come from the Gaza Strip and not Laayoune," said Erekat, who denounced the photos as "disinformation" to mislead international public opinion and distort Morocco's record. He reaffirmed Palestinian support for Morocco's efforts to settle the Western Sahara conflict through dialogue and peaceful means, and condemned EFE's failure to respect journalistic ethics.

EFE admitted the error on Friday, saying it purchased the photos from activists at a pro-Polisario website. The photos showed the Gaza infants with their heads bandaged in a hospital. The caption in El Pais said: "Two injured Saharan children are treated at a hospital in Laayoune."

The Polisario Front and its supporters have made a number of unsubstantiated allegations over the past week to cover up serious violence committed by their backers in Laayoune.

Last Monday, Moroccan authorities attempted to peacefully disperse a protest in Laayoune that began legitimately but was taken over by pro-Polisario militants. 70 Moroccan police were injured and 10 police killed when they moved in with non-lethal gear, no weapons, and were attacked by militants with knives, bottled gas canisters, and Molotov cocktails.

This account was supported by independent eyewitnesses. After examining the protest site, the UN Secretary-General's representative Hany Abdel-Aziz, head of MINURSO, the UN presence in Western Sahara, told French daily Le Monde, "I saw no trace of bullet cartridges." Instead, he was "amazed by the number of butane gas bottles" which militants used to set fires.

Most of the demonstrators left the camps when authorities asked and escaped serious harm. Abdel-Aziz commented that the truth was far from the thousands of civilian casualties the Polisario claimed.

The island of Lila - in the news again

Google's internet maps system is an extraordinarily useful tool. However, since mid-July, Google has become involved in a diplomatic fracas over ownership of a small Moroccan island.

Lila - a long way from Spain

Now, if you are Spanish, you will be jumping up and down at our statement about the island being Moroccan. The island of Lila ("night") is basically a rock some 200 metres off the Moroccan coast. Lila, not much bigger than a soccer field, was renamed by the Spanish as "Isla de Perejil" ("Parsley Island") and for reasons best known to themselves they have claimed it as Spanish territory. The recent diplomatic problem was caused when Google Maps marked the lump of rock as being Moroccan territory.

The two countries were locked in a military stand-off over the island in July 2002 when Spain sent in the military to eject a group of Moroccan soldiers who had set up camp there.The incident threatened Spanish and Moroccan diplomatic relations and was resolved only after the US brokered a deal to remove all forces from the territory.

In 2004 both countries signed an agreement in Washington that stated ownership was "under review" and could be claimed by neither. However, the Google Maps incident has sparked a fresh war of words.

Sadly, commonsense has not prevailed and Spain has pressured Google to "correct" its "mistake". "We have confirmation that a mistake was made and the correction will follow," a spokesman from Google Spain said, adding that it would henceforth be marked as a "disputed territory". Well, at least they got that bit right.


THE OTHER SPANISH PROBLEM

- The International Federation of Journalists (IFJ) backed its Moroccan affiliate, the Syndicat national de la presse marocaine (SNPM), which condemned Spanish officials in the Spanish occupied city of Melillia over the treatment of two Moroccan journalists who were briefly detained on the border, questioned and denied entry in the city.

"Restricting movement of journalists on duty without a valid reason is a violation of their rights," said Aidan White, IFJ General Secretary. "The events in Melillia matter to the Moroccan public and Spanish authorities should avoid unnecessary action which hinders the work of media covering the events in the city."

According to the SNPM, two cameramen of la Société nationale de radiodiffusion et de télévision (SNRT), Abderahim El Bouhedioui (2M) and Rachid Laâtabi (Al Oula), were arrested by border guards in Melillia and questioned at the police station on the reasons for their visit to the city. Three other journalists, Badiaâ Zekhnini (SNRT), Azzedine Lamrini (Al Ahdat Al Maghribiya newspaper) and Said Youssi (MAP press agency) had their passports confiscated by Spanish police. The group was later refused entry and returned to the Moroccan city of Nador.

One SNPM board member in the city reportedly said the actions of Spanish officials were designed to "frustrate the work of Moroccan journalists, particularly broadcast reporters, following their coverage of the Spanish forces' recent clampdown on the Moroccan population living in Melillia."

Eid Greetings

The medina streets are packed with shoppers today, as Fez residents prepare for Eid tomorrow.

Market stalls are piled up with winter fruit and vegetables such as Jerusalem artichokes, persimmons, pomegranates and the new season's mandarins and oranges. Walking through the streets is difficult because there are sheep in carossas everywhere, or young boys leading sheep home by a rope. The knife-grinders are working hard, and sales of barbecue equipment are high.

The View from Fez wishes all its Muslim readers a very blessed Eid.

Medina cats at Eid

Moroccans will tell you that at the time of the Eid sheep slaughter, coming up this week, there are no cats on the streets of the medina.



Superstition has it that all cats go to Mecca at this time ....

True or not, one avid blog-reader reports that there was a cat waiting in line at the Ryan Air desk at Fez airport tonight. On its way to Mecca, no doubt.

Marrakech Film Festival Update

Ben Mendelsohn and Laura Wheelwright in Animal Kingdom

When Morocco's 10th Marrakech Film Festival announced its 15-film competition lineup, the surprise inclusion was David Michod's Australian crime thriller "Animal Kingdom" that won Sundance's World Dramatic Competition winner. The Festival once again showcases new talent from around the world, including 10 debuts.

Moroccan helmer Talal Selhami's psychological thriller "Mirages" will get its world premiere while Italian Claudio Cupellini's tense thriller "A Quiet Life" and Park Jung-bum's drama about North Korean defectors, "The Journals of Musan," will get international premiers

Other highlights include Philip Seymour Hoffman's helming debut, "Jack Goes Boating"; Vanja d'Alcantara's stark WWII survival film, "Beyond the Steppes" (Russia); and two foreign language Oscar nominees -- Feo Aladag's mother-and-son drama, "When We Leave" (Germany) and Alexei Uchitel's epic war drama "The Edge" (Russia).

Our top pick

Here at The View from Fez, our pick of the Festival is the intense drama of Beyond the Steppes which, set in 1940, tells the story of Nina, a young Polish woman, who is deported with her baby by the Soviet Army to the remote and inhospitable lands of the USSR. She has to work in a Sovkhoz guarded by the Russian political police. When her child becomes ill, she sets out on a search of medications with a group of Kazakh nomads. Gritty stuff, but a superb film which draws the intimate and personal experience of this woman, forced into exile, in her struggle against the extreme conditions of this inhuman land.

Marrakech has carved a distinctive slot in the crowded fest diary and plans an ambitious 10th anniversary bash, including a visit by five past jury presidents Charlotte Rampling, Volker Schlondorff, Alan Parker, Milos Forman and Barry Levinson who will join this year's prexy, John Malkovich.

The festival runs Dec. 3-11.

EIB grants Morocco €420 milion for ports and highways

The European Investment Bank (EIB) and Morocco have signed two loans worth a total of €420 million, aimed at major highway and port infrastructures key to the country’s economic and social development.

An EIB press release said the first loan saw €220 million earmarked for a 172km stretch of motorway from Casablanca to the south-eastern region of Tadla-Azilal, while the second provides €200 million for the extension of the Tangier Med port.

The deals were signed by EIB Vice-President Philippe de Fontaine Vive, who is in charge of FEMIP – the Facility for Euro-Mediterranean Investment and Partnership – during his two-day visit to Morocco on 10-11 November.

“The loans extended today for the Tangier Med port complex and the motorway network testify to the EIB’s commitment to stand by the side of the Kingdom in its infrastructure modernisation policy,” said Philippe de Fontaine Vive. “These investments will strengthen the attractiveness of Morocco and favour its economic development. At the same time, I am particularly glad of their direct impact in improving the daily lives of the local communities concerned.”

Development of the Moroccan motorway network

The new stretch of motorway, which should be operational in June 2013, responds to a twin objective:

* To bring closer – in safe and environmentally sensitive conditions – the administrative heartland of the country of Rabat-Casablanca, in order to accelerate the development of the Tadla plain, the High Atlas mountains (Azilal) and the Middle Atlas (Khenifra).
* To promote several sectors essential to the economic development of the country, such as agriculture, agro-industry and tourism. The region being served enjoys substantial natural wealth, with the largest phosphate deposits in the country (Khouribga), a first class agricultural area (Beni Mellal) and the landscapes of the Atlas.



Extension of Tangier Med port

By developing an integrated logistic and industrial complex, just 35km from Tangiers, Morocco aims to offer investors an efficient and modern gateway.

The Tangier Med I project, to which the EIB already contributed €40 million in financing, offers a handling capacity of 3 million TEU (Twenty Feet Equivalent Unit). Tangier Med II will increase this capacity to 8 million TEU through the construction of two new container terminals. The new port will create 5,000 new jobs, with another 20,000 jobs indirectly created.

See our earlier stories on the Tangier Med developments HERE

Essaouira and the Jimi Hendrix myths

From time to time The View from Fez receives emails from people wanting to know which riad Jimi Hendrix stayed in in Essaouira. So our intrepid rock fan, Ibn Warraq investigates.

The other day I came across "The Hip Guide to Morocco" and discovered the following quote:

The claim to fame of Essaouira is as a hippy hang-out dating back to the sixties, when Jimi Hendrix lived here on-and-off for a few years. He also owned a hotel in town, an attractive old palace with traditional Arabic architecture. It has been restored recently, and is open to the public with guest rooms and a restaurant.

Hendrix lived here "on and off for a few years"? I was astounded! The way myths have grown and spread like a malignant virus! Yet, it is understandable why. Talk to locals in Essaouira and almost everyone will launch into their favourite Jimi Hendrix story. If they are to believed, then Jimi spread himself about. He stayed in this riad, he stayed in that riad, he composed Castles Made of Sand in this place, or that. Sadly, most of this is untrue.

The cottage industry sparked by Hendrix is no doubt good for Essaouira, and you could ask, "why let the truth get in the way of a good story?" The problem is that even people who should know better have perpetuated this myth. We even discovered it on liner notes for the CD Morocco: Crossroads of Time released by Ellipsis Arts, U.S.A., 1995 But, for the record, Hendrix only made one visit to Morocco. Those who insist he visited several times are just wrong. The trip, in July of 1969 was his only visit so, a quick check of the release date of his album Axis: Bold as Love will show you, it was out a year and a half before Hendrix was in Morocco. So we can strike down the notion that Castles Made of Sand was Morocco inspired.

Other local stories have Hendrix sleeping in a tent or camper van. Nice try, but again dead wrong! In fact, far from slumming, the first thing he did on arriving in Casablanca, was to hire a car and driver. Another widespread myth is that Hendrix tried to buy land in Morocco. One story says it was the the small Berber village of Diabet, yet another claims he tried to purchase the beautiful Ilse de Mogador! Mind you, given the extraordnary views from the island, it is possible the idea flitted through his head. As far as Diabet's claim to fame. Hendrix never even visited the village.

Other, even more far out claims include Hendrix fathering children in Morocco, trying to adopt a Moroccan boy, and recording songs on tape while in the country. All of these are nonsense. For the record, Hendrix was accompanied by then girlfriend, Collette Mimram. He did not even take a guitar with him as it was a holiday.

Despite the lack of evidence for any of these myths, television travel shows, guide books and other publications have continued to trot them out time and again. Despite what the owners may claim, Hendrix did not frequent Restaurant du Port/Chez Sam. It did not even exist back in 1969! But this has not stopped the owners hanging a photo of Hendrix with the inscription "A MON AMI SAM, 63". Confused? Yes, I am too. What sort of purple haze must Hendrix have been in to get the date of his visit wrong by 6 years?

Hendrix photo at Sam's

Of course, for local riad owners, it is all good business. Talk to the folks at Riad al Madina, and they will swear Hendrix and a host of other notable musicians stayed there. Back in 1969 Riad al Madina was called Hotel du Pacha. Again, for the record, Hendrix did not stay there. He stayed at Des Iles Hotel. Oh and he did not share a room with Timothy Leary - Leary did visit Morocco, but not at that time.

The facts show that Hendrix stayed for around a week in Morocco of which a few days were in Essaouira. Despite some comments by biographers, those with Hendrix at the time said he absolutely loved Morocco.

PS. I DID stay in Essaouira. Now I'll just wait for MY legend to grow.

British Airways returns to Marrakech

British Airways is to again start flights between Gatwick and  Marrakech in direct competition with budget airlines, it has been announced. BA will begin thrice-weekly services from March 27, 2011, with one-way fares starting from £79.70 including all taxes.

"BA offers a real alternative to discerning travellers to Morocco," said BA UK and Ireland sales and marketing head Richard Tams. "The benefits you get on BA at no extra charge include a generous baggage allowance, drinks and snacks and much more.”

BA last flew the route via franchise partner GB Airways in 2008. This announcement of new flights puts British Airways in direct competition with easyJet, but also Ryanair which flies from London Luton.

The new service is actually a return to Marrakech by BA, which last flew there as GB Airways in 2008. The franchise was then takeover by Easyjet, and the route was closed.

The British flag carrier will also go up against Morocco’s national airline, Air Maroc, which flies to Marrakech from both Heathrow and Gatwick.

The new service will operate three times per week on Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. One-way fares start from £80 without taxes and are on sale via BA's website now (www.ba.com).

Fez Fantasia

Often people tend to think that the Moroccan fantasia is an event put on for tourists. Not so. Photographer Gérard Chemit was at today's event in Fez and sent us these photographs.

A fantasia is held annually in most towns and villages to show off the prowess of teams of riders and animals, and it's competitive. First the tents are pitched where riders rest between events. Horses are bedecked with embroidered saddles and bridles. The teams of men (and often women, too) dress up in special clothes.

Each team lines up at the start, and sets off at the gallop. Twirling the musket is a special trick.

At the end of the field, muskets are fired and the horses stop dead.

Don't miss the opportunity to watch a real fantasia - not just the ones put on for tourists. The horses are beautiful, the artistry and riding a wonder, and the whole event very exciting.

With thanks to Gerard Chemit for the photos.

Cafe Clock cookbook launch in Fez

Cafe Clock was packed solid last night for the launch of the long-awaited Clock Book: Recipes from a Modern Moroccan Kitchen, written by Tara Stevens.

Tara Stevens

The beautifully presented book, with a foreword by Tahir Shah and photographs by Julius Honnor, is a fitting tribute to Mike Richardson, owner of Cafe Clock. His vision has made the Clock a landmark in Fez.

Publisher Andrew Morris of 33Books in London, himself a house-owner in Fez, flew in for the evening. The books were quickly snapped up and Tara spent the evening signing them.

Cafe Clock at the launch

The Clock Book features, says Tara, "the dishes and the stories I have encountered in more than a year of regular visits to the Fez medina". She worked closely with Mike and Max and the Clock staff. "Together, we have updated many of the traditional dishes of Morocco to bring them more in line with 21st-century lifestyles, which means we account for busy working weeks as well as healthier diets and the Western kitchen".

The book costs Dh200 and will soon be available at www.amazon.com.uk. There are, of course, copies for sale at Cafe Clock.

RECIPE

Here's a typical example of the way in which Tara has adapted the classic Moroccan mechoui - a lamb dish traditionally slow-cooked in a clay oven.

"The smell alone", says Tara, "is enough to get you salivating, and by the time it emerges from a slow oven, it's maddening. No wonder it's traditionally torn apart with the fingers and eaten with no embellishment. Shoulder works better than leg as it is fattier, so you should get tender flesh running with juices and a delicious, crispy skin. Serve it with dishes of the juice, and freshly ground cumin, sea salt and dry harissa for dipping."

INGREDIENTS

2kg shoulder of lamb

180g butter

10 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tbsp cumin seeds, crushed

1 tbsp coriander seeds, ground

1 tsp turmeric

1 tsp ginger, ground

1g saffron

salt and pepper

METHOD

1. Combine the butter and spices together and chill overnight.

2. Preheat oven to 220C

3. Wash and dry the lamb, slash crosswise to score the skin (avoid cutting the flesh), then rub the spiced butter into the lamb and roast on the middle shelf for 30 minutes until the skin begins to turn a golden brown.

4. Turn the oven down to 140C, cover the lamb in foil and continue roasting to another 3 hours.

5. Transfer to a board with the foil still on and leave to rest for 10 minutes before carving, serving the pan juices on the side (if they are on the scant side, add a splash of water or white wine and heat through on the stove before serving).

RECIPE FOR DRY HARISSA DIPPING MIX

Mix together 2tbsp bright red paprika and 1 tbsp cayenne pepper. Can be stored in an airtight container.

Reprinted by kind permission from Tara Stevens

Photographs: Omar Chennafi

Winter fruit in the medina

In all the years of living in the Fez Medina, we've never known the proper name of the exquisitely-hued fruit that makes its appearance at this time of year. Now we've found out.

Known in Moroccan Arabic as sheshnou, the arbutus (Arbutus unede) is sold at medina stalls during November. Locals say it wards off the cold, which is just about right for this time of year. It's a mountain fruit and doesn't keep, which is why you'd never see it in a supermarket, and the season is short. There's not much you can do with it except eat it fresh, and whole, despite its prickly skin. The colour is stunning. It's sold in paper cones and punnets - a cone costs Dh3.

Pliny didn't think much of it, but Ovid liked its 'blushing fruit'. In Spain and Corsica, a wine is made from the fruit. Beware - some people think the fruit is narcotic in large quantities!

Videos of Morocco

From time to time we come across videos that give a reasonable idea of what various parts of Morocco are like. So we have decided to create a link to some of the better ones.

To start the ball rolling, here are two, one of Fez and one of Chefchaouen.

FEZ and CHEFCHAOUEN VIDEO

New Theatre Complex for Rabat

Rabat will soon boast a state of the art theatre dubbed "the Great theatre". According to sources close to the project it is to be worth 1.35 billion dirhams.

The agreements on the funding, architectural design and the building of the cultural edifice were signed on Friday.

Spanning over an area of 47,000 square meters, of which 27,000 square meters will be covered, the new facility will have a theatre hall with a capacity of 2050 seats, a small theatre hall of 520 seats, a studio and an auditorium of 7000 seats, in addition to green spaces and a parking.

The theatre, to be operational in 56 months, will be built with the latest in modern theatre design in complete harmony with its surroundings and with a magnificent view on the Bouregreg river.

It will provide space for a variety of artistic expressions, including plays, music festivals, ballet, and opera.

The last thing you'd expect in Fez?

If you answered "tango dancing" - you are correct!

Unbelievable as it may seem, tango lessons are going to be available in the Fez Medina. And not just tango, but genuine Argentinian Milonga Tango!

Postcard from Tetouan

"It's about to explode", says Maribel Jimenez of Blanco Riad in Tetouan, of tourism in the city. The View from Fez takes a look.

Tetouan's location close to the Mediterranean coast makes it a sure-fire winner when it comes to tourism potential. There are plenty of developments on the coast, especially at M'diq with its beautiful beach, just a short taxi-ride away. HM the King spends time there and has lavished attention on it and the surrounding area.

The city has a wonderful Andalusian heritage that is reflected in its Mauresque buildings. Moors and Jews escaped persecution in Spain, particularly Granada, from the 15th century onwards and took refuge here.

Bacturia Church (left) in Place Moulay el-Mehdi

Tetouan also has its own style of decor - it's well known for its furniture made of cedarwood inlaid with mother-of-pearl decoration, and Spanish-influenced, heavily decorated ceramic tiles with a bronze sheen. This form of tiling is best seen at the guesthouse El Reducto in the medina.

tiled column at El Reducto guesthouse

We made a special point of visiting the Archaeology Museum, set in pretty gardens. It features Roman mosaic floors all the way from Lixus, that we'd visited earlier in our trip (see the story here).

Best of all, perhaps, are the four quirky towers on Place Hassan II, outside the Royal Palace. No, they're not minarets; they're light towers, designed by a student of Gaudi.

light tower in Place Hassan II

The whitewashed medina is well worth a visit. We stayed at the new Blanco Riad, a wonderful blend of traditional architecture and furniture with a dash of modern Spain. The original zellij floors have been retained in some of the bedrooms, and are magnificent.

The ground floor has a hammam in one of the salons; another is a superb restaurant that's open to the public. Traditional Moroccan food is served, but with a modern twist - for example, pigeon pastilla with foie gras, or stuffed calamari tubes.

The dining room at Blanco Riad; Tetouan furniture (right)

Outside is a peaceful, Zen-like garden, shaded from the sun.

Interesting architecture, new places to stay, excellent restaurants, proximity to fabulous Mediterranean beaches - we think Maribel might just be right.

Blanco Riad: www.blancoriad.com. Tel: 0539 704 202

See all The View from Fez POSTCARDS HERE.

Galerie Kacimi hosts new exhibition in Fez

Colombian arttist, Cristina Torres, has spread her wings, far beyond her homeland. As a graphic artist working in paints, drawing and printing, her career has been quite extraordinary.

After gaining a scholarship as artist-in-residenc at the Chateau de la Napoule near Cannes, Cristina then moved to the Cité Internationale des Arts Paris. The French experience opened other doors including being invited to the Biennale of Contemporary Art in Florence, Italy. Cristina has also exhibited in Miami, Panama, Tunis, London, and Monaco, where she won the Jury Prize at the International Competition of Contemporary Art in Monte Carlo.

Cristina Torres has lived in Morocco for three years and her exhibition in Fez is presented by The French Institute in Fez. Opening on Tuesday, November 9 it will run until December 9, at Galerie Kacimi.

Restaurant review: Fez Cafe

The Fez Cafe at Le Jardin des Biehn in the medina is now open for fine dining. The View from Fez team sampled the fare recently.

This new eatery scores full marks for attentive service and a warm ambience. The restaurant is quirky and fun, and for fine days or evenings, there are tables outside looking onto the beautiful garden.

There are two menus - a four-course offering including meat or fish, and a simpler one of three courses featuring a pasta dish. At lunch time, there are also salads. The chef, Hicham, has an interesting repertoire: the pasta on our visit was dressed with a light, creamy sauce of preserved lemons which was very successful. The leg of lamb stuffed with a duxelles and served with mashed potatoes with peas, was tender and delicious. The only downside is the price - the simpler menu is Dh170 per person, and the four-course menu Dh340 - certainly Parisian prices! But you can choose an a la carte option.

The Fez Cafe is at the new guesthouse, Le Jardin des Biehn (see our story here), at 13 Akbat Sbaa, Douh, and is open to non-guests. Telephone 0664 647 679 for reservations.