Showing posts with label History. Show all posts
Showing posts with label History. Show all posts

Friday, March 02, 2018

Can Citizens Save The Henna Souk Fountain?


The Henna Souk is one of the gems at the heart of the Fez Medina. This oasis of tranquility is the place for henna, ceramics and a variety of smaller goods such as herbs, cosmetic soaps and oils. It is also the location for the famous maristan and its fountain
The Henna Souk, with its two giant trees, is an oasis of tranquility in the busy Fez Medina

The word “maristan” is a contraction of a Persian word (bimarstan) meaning “the locus of sick people.” Maristans were medical institutions with four specialties: internal medicine, ophthalmology, traumatology, and psychiatry.

In Fez, during the Merinid dynasty a maristan, called Sidi Fredj, was built in the 13th century by the sultan Abu Yaqub (1286–1307). Leo Africanus (his original name was Hassan Al Wazzan) worked in this maristan for two years as a secretary at the end of the 15th century. Adjacent to the Sidi Fredj maristan, herb shops allowed the preparation of many kinds of medications for centuries. These small shops still exist today and add much to the charm of the Henna Souk.


Still in existence, but under threat is the beautiful fountain.

Built at the same time as the maristan, the fountain has survived the centuries but in a deteriorating condition. The proclamation of Fez as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO saw an increased appreciation of the cultural and architectural heritage of the Medina.  In 1986 the fountain was restored.


Problems began two years ago when someone began using the fountain for dumping rubbish (see photographs below). They are asked to desist by the stallholders in the Souk, but refused to do so.

Rubbish in the fountain

The stallholders recently cleaned up the fountain and the local water authority RADEEF generously undertook to assist by putting in a temporary water circulating pump and for the first time in years the sound of tinkling water was heard in the Henna Souk. RADEEF explained it was only a temporary fix and undertook to provide the plumbing to connect the fountain to a constant supply of water. It is hoped that RADEEF will quickly move to fully restore the fountain.

Cleaned and flowing with fresh water

Sadly, the abuse of the fountain has continued and the people involved have removed the water pump and returned to dumping into the fountain.

The local shopkeepers all signed a petition and delivered it to their local city official, who unfortunately dismissed it as being "in the wrong format" and declined to address the problem.

There is much discussion about what the next step should be. Please visit the Henna Souk to show your support.

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Happy Independence Day

Happy Independence Day Morocco!  2 mars 1956. Bonne fête d’indépendance de bladna


March 2nd, 1956 was officially the end of the French protectorate in the kingdom. During the reign of Mohammed V, as King of Free Morocco and Sultan, Independence Day was celebrated on that date. It was under Hassan II that there was the change that still prevails today despite attempts to honor this day in 2011.

March 2, 1956 is a date almost forgotten in Morocco. And yet it officially acts the recovery of sovereignty of the kingdom after 44 years of French tutelage. That day, the page of the French Protectorate was officially turned with the end of the Treaty of Fez concluded March 30, 1912. An event that had crowned more than a week of negotiations between King Mohammed V and the President of the French Council, Guy Mollet. Under the reign of the late monarch, Moroccans used to celebrate Independence Day on March 2nd.

It was only with the accession to the throne of Hassan II on March 3, 1961, that the change occurred. A context that prevails until today. Textbooks, the media, the administration and the majority of political parties have all contributed to anchoring this change in the memory of generations since the 1950s.


November 18, chosen to celebrate the independence of Morocco, also remains an important date in the history of the kingdom. Two days after his return from exile, on November 16, 1955, first in Corsica and then in Madagascar, the sultan pronounced a memorable speech to the nation. In front of a jubilant crowd, he said he was fully determined to recover all areas still under French, Spanish and international control (Tangier, ed). From 1927 to 1961, Moroccans commemorated the accession of Mohammed V's throne every November 18.


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Thursday, January 11, 2018

Independence Day in Morocco


January 11th - today is the 74th anniversary of Morocco's Declaration of Independence. We wish the Moroccan people a joyful day
As part of the celebrations, HRH Mohammed VI has pardoned 683 people sentenced by different courts of the Kingdom. The news was announced yesterday by the Ministry of Justice.

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Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Moroccan Judaism ~ A Lecture and Documentary



What was once a key part of Moroccan culture and society is now on the way to being forgotten. There is much confusion and even resentment caused by the massive Jewish immigration to Israel and many people now confuse terms such as Judaism and Zionism. This confusion and lack of information has caused many people to forget or to even look negatively on a people who were once their neighbours and a culture that is even now intricately a part of their own. This film seeks to resolve the confusion and to educate people about this history of a culture which cannot be separated from Moroccan culture as a whole.

"My Neighbour...the Jew”

"My Neighbour...the Jew” highlights Muslim-Jewish relations in Morocco. Muslims in Morocco talk about their Jewish neighbours in a very nostalgic manner, and Jews remember Muslims as good neighbours and friends. The Jewish interviewees are strongly attached to their roots and history in Morocco, which they are not willing to give up. The title accentuates the concept of “neighbour,” which echoes the message of the documentary. The neighbour in both Islam and Judaism, as well as in the Moroccan culture, is almost hallowed. The Hebrew Bible says "Love thy neighbour as thyself" (Leviticus 19:18). There is a Hadith narrated by the Prophet of Islam that states "The best neighbour in Allah's estimation is the one who is best to his neighbour" (Al-Tirmidhi, Number 1287), and the famous Moroccan proverb "Choose your neighbour before your house."

This lecture, organised by the ALC-ALIF Cultural Heritage Club, is free and open to the general public.

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Tuesday, October 03, 2017

Conference Examines Fez's UNESCO Listing

A conference this week is investigating whether the reality of the Fez Medina being on the UNESCO World Heritage list has matched expectations
Run by the Euromed University of Fez from October 2 - 5, the conference titled "Medina of Fez: Realities and Perspectives of the Registration on the World Heritage List" offers a host of expert speakers in the field of history, conservation and architecture.

They include Maria Gravari Barbas, Vice-President of International Relations at the University of Paris; historian Mohamed Mezzine, Mohamed Melyani, from the University of Amiens, Fez's own Fouad Serghini, the Director General of ADER and economist and novelist Naima Lahbil Tagemouati.


At the opening session on Monday, Mohamed Metalsi, Dean of Sciences and Humanities at the Euro-Mediterannean University of Fez, gave an insight into early efforts of conservation in the Fez Medina, and how that process had eventually led to the World Heritage listing.

"Ali Amahan, who was an anthropologist and the Minister of Culture and Communication in the 1970s, was frequently in conflict with the Habous, (the religious authority which owns many buildings in the Medina)," he said. "They wanted to renovate buildings so that they were low maintenance, whereas, he was trying to preserve the history of the buildings."

Fortunately, Amahan's vision eventually won the day. He was awarded the Agar Khan Prize for Architecture in 2001. Through his books and influence, the unique architectural and cultural heritage of the Medina of Fez became more widely recognised. World Heritage listing was gained in 1981.

The conference continues until Thursday.

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Wednesday, April 12, 2017

Museum of History and Civilisation in Rabat Reopens


After a year of renovation, the Museum of History and Civilisation in Rabat will reopen its doors to the general public today (Wednesday 12 April)


The new scenography of the museum combines two paths; a chronological journey that tells the history of Morocco from prehistory to the Islamic period, and a thematic route offering the visitor a specific focus dedicated to marble and antique bronze

The thematic route includes marble statues, mainly from Volubilis and Banasa.


On the upper level, the visitor discover Morocco under different dynasties, including the Idrissides, Almoravides, Almohades, Merinides and Alawites, through archaeological remains unearthed in the sites of Belyounech, Sijilmassa and Koutoubia.

The director of the museum Mohammed VI of Modern and Contemporary Arts and commissioner of the renovation of the museum, Abdelaziz El Idrissi, indicated that the objective of the renovation of the museum is to enrich the cultural offer of the city of Rabat.

"The museum will become a true cultural destination, which will contribute to meet the demand, with the setting up of an exhibition retracing the history of Morocco and the various periods that the country has known, allowing visitors to feel the peculiarity of our heritage," says El Idrissi.


The curator of the Museum of History and Civilisation and curator of the permanent exhibition, Fatima Zohra Chbihi, emphasised that the renovation reflects the museum's vocation to trace the history of the different civilisations of Morocco.

"Different civilisations have crossed our country that constitute the diversity and cultural richness of the Kingdom. The new exhibition was designed primarily to translate the genius of the human spirit and its evolution on Moroccan territory, "says Chbihi.

The restoration of the museum is part of the strategy of the National Museum Foundation, which aims to enhance museums in order to make them more welcoming and attractive and to bring them up to modern standards of conservation and preservation of heritage.

Located in El Brihi street, right in the centre of Rabat, the museum was built under the French protectorate in the 1920s to house the antiquities department of the protectorate.


DETAILS
Museum of History and Civilisations, El Brihi Street, Rabat. Open every day except Tuesdays, from 10am to 6pm. Rates vary from 20 dirhams for adults, 10 dirhams for children between 15 and 18 and 5 dirhams for children under 14 or school groups. A 50% discount is provided for students upon presentation of their card.

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Friday, April 07, 2017

The Olive Tree of Wisdom ~ New book by Moha Ennaji


The prestigious French publishing house Karthala has just published the latest book by Moha Ennaji  The Olive Tree of Wisdom (l'olivier de la sagesse) sheds light on the situation of ancient Morocco through the life of the author’s father, a hero of the resistance, a Sufi and an adept of a tolerant Islam

Ennaji argues that the Maghreb countries, especially the elites, would do better to know and appreciate the social and popular history as well as the ancestral traditions of their country
The book describes the life of an Amazigh (Berber) family in Timoulilt, a Middle Atlas village. The author speaks nostalgically of a rural world that no longer exists. The book is a narrative of the past that leads directly to the future with a spirit of tolerance and openness, in short, a great lesson in life that should interest all those who remain curious about Morocco, its history and culture

Ennaji portrays Morocco as a country that has always been characterised by dialogue between cultures, by its diversity, tolerance and openness to the modern world.

The multiple perspectives (anthropological, historical and cultural) of the narrative make this book very important to understand the life of Moroccans during the French protectorate and at the dawn of independence.

Its 165 pages, the sixteen chapters are organised around six major themes: the history of the struggle for independence in the Middle Atlas in particular and in Morocco in general, the harsh living conditions of Imazighen (Berbers) under the protectorate, their tolerant Islam and Sufism, the linguistic question and the impact of the education system, the situation of rural Moroccan women and the challenges of the multiple identities, as well as their impact on the integration of Imazighen in modernity as well as the participation of the rural population in the struggle for independence and the Imazighen's contribution to the economic, political, social and cultural development after independence.

Highlighting topics previously little studied and analyzed, the book highlights the importance of respecting cultural specificities in any debate on diversity and social justice in Morocco.

The book describes the Moroccan Imazighen as serious workers whose main objective is to improve their standard of living. It shows that rural people in general and Amazigh people in particular are actors of socio-economic development in view of their various immense contributions and their achievements at several levels. They fight every day for a better future for themselves and their children and deserve recognition and respect. Their Islam, which is both modern and moderate, is considered a basis for stability and social peace for Morocco.

Ennaji argues that the Maghreb countries, especially the elites, would do better to know and appreciate the social and popular history as well as the ancestral traditions of their countries, and to protect their tangible and intangible cultural heritage. Similarly, young men and women must recognise the generous culture of their country and be more tolerant and respectful of political and religious pluralism.
Moha Ennaji is a prominent Moroccan academic with research interests in culture and society, migration, gender issues, and linguistics. He is co-founder and president of the International Institute for Languages and Cultures at Fez. He is the author of several books, among which  are: "Multilingualism, Cultural Identity, and Education in Morocco" (Springer New York, 2005), " Multiculturalism and Democracy in North Africa"  (Routledge, London 2014) and “Muslim Moroccan Migrants in Europe and North American” (Palgrave, 2015). He has published many articles in Moroccan, American and European journals and newspapers.

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Thursday, February 02, 2017

Moroccans and the Arabic Genome


One of the intriguing things about Moroccans is their insistence that they are "not African" and "not Arabic". When asked they will normally respond by saying they are "Mahgrebi" - that is Moroccan. And now it turns out that science is on their side. A recent publication from National Geographic reports on the research...

The Genographic Project was launched in 2005 by geneticist Spencer Wells. The study analyzes historical trends of the DNA of subjects spread across the world to understand our genetic roots. The researchers collected DNA samples from all continents. This long sampling work allows to dissect the movements of populations through the history and origins of 60 ethnic groups. The study revealed surprises in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region.

The Genographic Project, produced by the National Geographic Corporation, decrypts the DNA of populations across the planet. In the Maghreb, it helps to deconstruct prejudices about the predominance of the Arab genome.

The human leukocyte antigen HLA DNA data suggest that most Moroccans are of a Berber origin and that Arabs who invaded North Africa and Spain in the 7th century did not substantially contribute to the gene pool. It now appears that the Arabisation of the area was mainly a cultural process, rather than a demographic replacement of the Berber populations that inhabited the region where the Arabic expansion took place

The Arab genome is not dominant in North Africa

Maghreb and North Africa are often referred to as part of the "Arab world". For example, the results show that the Arab genome is a minority in Tunisia, which has a similar population to Morocco and the rest of the Maghreb. Only 4% of the genome is Arab, compared with 88% of the genome of North Africa.

Typical genome distribution in the Maghreb

The Arab component came in two waves: first with the arrival of agriculture came from the Middle East some 8000 years ago, then during the Islamic conquest in the seventh century. Egypt, which thinks of itself as the country of Arab civilisation, has only 17% of the Arab genome, compared with 68% of the genome from North Africa and 4% from the Jewish diaspora.

The Arab genome has not spread so widely in the neighbouring countries of Europe

While historically the Arab conquest has gone to Europe, very few traces of the genome of this ethnic group have been found in the DNA of the populations of the old continent. There are none, for example, in France, Italy, Spain or Portugal. On the other hand, the genome of North Africa is present in 9% of the samples of Spanish and Portuguese population. Its content is 2% among Italians and French. " North African components represent the historical population migrations through the Strait of Gibraltar to the Iberian Peninsula in the last 2 000 years ", scientists explain.

The genome of North Africa present in unexpected places

The Genographic project reveals that the populations of North Africa would have gone much further than we imagined. Traces of their genome have been found even in South America! In Peru, 3% of the population genome comes from North Africa, as is Puerto Rico (3%), compared with 6% in Colombia. The project's initiators explain on their website that the presence of the North African genome in these areas is due " to the slave trade from the sixteenth to the nineteenth century, which had a significant influence on local genetic models ."

The country where the Arab genome is most present is Kuwait (84%). The genetic makeup of the populations of this area also includes 7% of Asia Minor, 4% of North Africa and 3% of East Africa. " The small component of North Africa reflects the proximity of Kuwait with Africa, and could have been increased by the Arab slave trade between the eighth and the nineteenth century ," explains the National Geographic website.

The Lebanese population also has an important ratio of the Arabic genome (44%). The remaining percentage is very diverse, with 14% in the Jewish diaspora, 2% in East Africa, 11% in North Africa, 10% in Asia Minor and 5% in Southern Europe.

But the biggest surprise...

Tracing the ancient roots of the Moroccan Amazigh (Berber) brings some unexpected results. DNA analysis has found commonalities between Amazigh Moroccan populations and those of the Saami (Lapp) people of Scandinavia showing a link dating from around 9,000 years ago.

Saami families

This unexpected finding not only confirms that the Franco-Cantabrian refuge area of southwestern Europe was the source of late-glacial expansions of hunter-gatherers that repopulated northern Europe after the Last Glacial Maximum but also reveals a direct maternal link between those European hunter-gatherer populations and the Amazigh. See the research here: Saami and Berbers—An Unexpected Mitochondrial DNA Link

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Friday, November 18, 2016

Moroccan Photo of the Day - Bab Boujloud


The Bab Bou Jeloud (or Bab Boujeloud; English: The Blue Gate) is a gate that leads to the Old Medina of Fes el Bali, in Fez. These two old photographs are from the collection in the Fine Arts Library of the Harvard College Library

From the outside looking into the Medina
The view from the Medina looking out

Surrounded by high walls, the Pasha Baghdadi square connects the Medina with Fez el-Jedid. The Bab Bou Jeloud is a beautiful monumental gate built in 1913 and is now one of the main tourist entrances to Fez el-Bali.

See more in our series Photo of the Day 

The View from Fez welcomes contributions to our Photo of the Day Series

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Saturday, July 30, 2016

Moroccan Museums Get an Upgrade


Yesterday, Friday, July 29th, the Museum of the Kasbah in Tangier was renamed The Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures and opened its doors to the public after several months of renovation at a cost of around 2.5 million dirhams. Part of the budget (1.3 million dirhams) was kindly donated by a French citizen, resident in Morocco
Now open: "The Kasbah of Mediterranean Cultures"

Mehdi Qotbi, president of the National Museums Foundation (FNM) explained, "We felt the urgency to raise the the various museums of Morocco to international museum standards. So we are not going to wait for state funds to start these projects".

The Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Culture in Tangier is the first in a series of thirteen projects to upgrade of all Moroccan museums. Two museums whose current renovation work began in 2016 should also open their doors by the end of the year.

The next museums to be upgraded is the Archaeological Museum of Rabat which will probably be renamed The Rbati Museum of History and Civilisations.

This will be followed by the Batha Museum in Fez, whose construction was begun in May. According to  Mehdi Qotbi, "The work in Fez includes the consolidation and restoration of the building as well as upgrading its electricity. The three magnificent carved rooms, dating back 300 years, will also be restored".

The Batha Museum in Fez

The Batha museum work has required a budget of around ten million dirhams. Work will also include the creation of reception areas and road signs. Like most others museums it will also be renamed The Batha Museum of Islamic Art.

"We want to strengthen the identity of museums so that they are complementary to each other," said Mehdi Qotbi, who believes that the name of each museum will now "be in line with where it is located and the collections that it presents to the public."

In 2017 the Safi Museum of Ceramics of Safi and The Dar El Bacha Museum in Marrakech should be open to the public.

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Saturday, March 26, 2016

Morocco - A Question of Identity


All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights. They are endowed with reason and conscience and should act towards one another in a spirit of brotherhood. (Article 1 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights)
We are not an Arab country, but rather Maghrebi, and our history comes from Berber origins” - Samira Sitail
When Samira Sitail, Director of Information at Morocco’s second national TV channel, 2M, said in an interview on Radio Aswat, that Morocco is not an Arab country, her comments met with a mixed reaction. While many Moroccans claimed that she was correct, others disputed it.

Samira Sitail emphasised Morocco’s Amazigh roots

The question of identity in Morocco is complex, given the historical melting pot of cultures that have contributed to the Kingdom. According to the preamble of the Moroccan constitution adopted in July 2011, Morocco is a “sovereign Muslim state whose unity was forged by the convergence of its Arab-Islamic, Amazigh and Saharan-Hassani components, which were enriched by its African, Andalusian, Hebraic and Mediterranean influences.”

“We must be proud of our roots and our origins and move away from useless debates now,” Sitail said. But within days of her remarks being reported by Morocco World News an Algerian TV anchor, Khadija Benguenna, refuted Sitail's the statement.

The anchor, who works with the Doha-based Al Jazerra channel, said, “Morocco is a genuine Arab country, whether people like it or not.”

The Algerian journalist’s statement on her Facebook page where she has over 7.5 million followers, went viral on social media with several thousand people sharing it or commenting on it. Comment varied between people who support her statement and those who challenge her and ask her to provide historical facts that support it.

Khadija Benguenna challenged Samira Sitail

The word Imazighen (singular Amazigh) means "free born" and is the preferred term to the more commonly used "Berbers" which is an offensive hangover from the Romans and Greeks, who labeled almost everyone they didn't understand as "barbarians".

The Imazighen desire to establish a national identity gained ground in 2001 and 2002 with demonstrations taking place in Morocco and Algeria, calling for official acceptance of Imazighen identity and state-funded education in the Amazigh language. However, before Morocco's adoption of the 2011 constitution it was uncommon to see prominent personalities challenge the idea that Morocco is an Arab country. Now that is changing.

On the streets of Fez, people of both Arab and Amazigh backgrounds are quick to point out that "we are not Arab, neither are we African - we are Maghrebi!"

Getting accurate statistics of the number of Imazighen is problematic as a proper census does not appear to have been taken. Numbers claimed vary widely and are complicated by the fact that the number of people identifying as Imazighen is lower than the actual number. Some sources claim Imazighen represent as many as 80% of the population in Morocco and Algeria, more than 60% in Tunisia and Libya and 2% in Egypt, altogether some 50 million people.  It is also suggested that centuries of cultural "Arabisation" has persuaded many Imazighen, particularly in the cities, to adopt the Arabic language. The number of people perceiving themselves as Amazigh is hence much lower.

A 1995 report suggests about 30% of Moroccans are Amazigh-speaking, with the main Amazigh dialects being Tarifit, Techelhit and Central Morocco Tamazight. Director of the Royal Institute of the Amazigh Culture, Ahmed Boukoss, believes that Moroccans who previously may have rejected the notion that they may have Amazigh ancestry, are warming to the idea and developing a pride in Morocco’s Amazigh dimension. Although Moroccans commonly base their identity on French and Arab influences, it is believed that the majority of Moroccans have Amazigh ancestry

Wikipedia claims there are between 13 to 20 million Imazighen in Morocco.
There are some twenty-five to thirty million Berber speakers in North Africa. The number of ethnic Berbers (including non-Berber speakers) is far greater, as a large part of the Berbers have acquired other languages over the course of many decades or centuries, and no longer speak Berber today. The majority of North Africa's population is believed to be Berber in origin, although due to Arabisation most ethnic Berbers identify as Arabised Berbers - Wikipedia
The Amazigh flag

The Imazighen identity is however, wider than language and ethnicity, and encompasses the entire history and geography of North Africa. Imazighen are not an entirely homogeneous ethnicity and they encompass a range of phenotypes, societies and ancestries. The unifying forces for the Imazighen people may be their shared language, belonging to the Imazighen homeland, or a collective identification with heritage and history.

On the Middle East Research and Information Project website Paul Silverstein and David Crawford wrote lucidly about the changing stature of the Imazighen culture in Morocco. They trace the major change back to October 17th, 2001, when King Mohammed VI set up the Royal Institute of the Amazigh Culture, known in Morocco by its French name, l’Institut Royal de la Culture Amazigh, or IRCAM.

When primary school students in the major Tamazight-speaking regions of Morocco returned to class in September 2004, for the first time ever they were required to study the Tamazight language. The mandatory language classes in the Rif, the Middle Atlas, the High Atlas and the Sous Valley represented the first significant policy change implemented IRCAM

Silverstein and Crawford point out that this royal edict, or dahir, represented a dramatic reversal of legal discrimination against Imazighen and an explicit attempt to reclaim their culture as “a principal element of national culture, as a cultural heritage present across all stages of Moroccan history and civilisation.” Since Moroccan nationalist discourse has tended to emphasise links to the high culture of Arab-Islamic civilisation, and in particular the royal patriline leading back to the Prophet Muhammad, the dahir indicated a shift in, or at least an amendment to, the official national imaginary. Instead of posing Imazighen culture as a challenge to national unity, the king promoted embracing it as a necessary step in his project for a “democratic and modernist society.”

Imilchil Festival 

Critics of IRCAM say it has undermined the work of some Imazighen NGOs and further divided the gap between rural and urban communities. They also say that IRCAM is turning some aspects of the culture into "folkloric tourist events". Silverstein and Crawford say a potent example of this monopolisation is the Imilchil festival, the annual High Atlas moussem, where young Berber men and women marry supposedly outside of familial negotiations. "Promoted by the Moroccan state over the last ten years as a tourist destination, the festival had become an opportunity for local cultural associations to support their yearly activities by vending High Atlas Berber arts and crafts, or by being paid by the state for their musical and dance performances. In 2004, however, the moussem was taken over by IRCAM and the Rabat-based Centre Tarik bin Zyad run by Hassan Aourid, which promoted it as an “Amazigh” event, bringing in performance groups from across Morocco, Algeria, France and Canada. Local associations were excluded from the organization and enactment of the festival, a symbolic and financial blow that has elicited much criticism".

Many other Imazighen activists are happy with the changes and the inclusion of language in schools. There is, however, an ongoing dispute about the Tifinagh alphabet being used. There are at least eight different versions of the Tifinagh alphabet and the one chosen by IRCAM is the ancient  script while almost all dictionaries and books available are in the Latin alphabet. Many experts argue that using the Latin script would make learning Tifinagh much easier and promote the spread of the language.

Amina Zioual, President of The Voice of the Amazigh Woman 

The struggle for Amazigh culture is also a feminist issue and there are many strong women's voices in the ongoing debates.

“Women’s groups always speak of ‘the Arab woman’ but we are not Arab women — we have an Amazigh culture, language and identity which has nothing to do with the Arab woman from the Middle East,” says Amina Zioual, President of The Voice of the Amazigh Woman .

Suggested further reading : An interesting article "Morocco’s indigenous Amazigh women unite against Islamists and Arab elites"

While saying there is still much to be done, many scholars are quick to point out that they feel the last decade has been one of progress. One thing is beyond question; the Amazigh culture is an essential and valuable part of Moroccan identity - in the past and in the future.

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Wednesday, March 23, 2016

Magana Bouanania - The Famous Water Clock in Fez


Among the nearly 11,000 historic buildings in the Fez Medina, one of the most visited sites is the famous Magana Bouanania - the remains of the ancient water clock on the Talaa Kbira

The hydraulic clock was built on the orders of the  Merinid Sultan Abu Inan Faris. He commissioned Abou al-Hassan Ibn Ali Ahmed Tlemsani to undertake the construction which was completed on the 6th of May 1357. Tlemsani was the muwaqqit - the man in charge of maintaining clocks that indicated the correct times for the muezzin to announce the call to prayer. However, the clock fell into disrepair and has remained silent and inert for almost five centuries.

Dar al-Magana today - still awaiting reconstruction

How the clock, with its wooden decor and sculpted plaster, originally functioned is a mystery that has long puzzled scientists.

The clock consists of 13 windows and platforms carrying brass bowls. The motion of the clock was presumably maintained by a kind of small cart which ran from left to right behind twelve doors. At one end, the cart was attached to a rope with a hanging weight; at the other end to a rope with a weight that floated on the surface of a water reservoir that was drained at a regular pace. Each hour one of the doors opened; at the same time a metal ball was dropped into one of the twelve brass bowls. The rafters sticking out of the building above the doors are identical to the rafters of the Bouinania Madrasa (Islamic school) and originally supported a small roof to shield the doors and bowls.

Dar al-Magana in the beginning of the last century

On December 16th, 2004 specialist heritage experts under the guidance of the  Agency for the Development and Rehabilitation of the city of Fez (ADER-Fez) removed the bowls and began to investigate the possible reconstruction of the clock. ADER later stated that they were confident that after reconstruction the clock would be operational again.

A possible clue to the workings of the clock lie in treatise Ktab 'Amal al-sa'at wa-l-amal biha (On the Construction of Clocks and their Use) written by the Arab engineer Ridwan b. al Saati in 1203. The book contains a description of the Jayrun Water Clock,  built by Muhammad al-Sa'ati, which was positioned at the gate of Damascus, Syria, at the exit of the Umayyad Mosque in the 12th century.

The Jayrun Water Clock,  built by Muhammad al-Sa'ati

The scholar Al Jazanaî in his book "Zahrat Al Aas" (the flower of myrtle) gave a description of the Magana Bouanania, saying that " in front of the north gate of his new madrasa Abu Inan Al Mérini built a " Magana "with cups and bowls of brass. To mark the hour, a weight falls in one of the cups and a window opened. This building was erected in the last days of the construction of the Bouanania madrasa."

Other clues may lie in the work of Alī Ibn Khalaf al-Murādī, an 11th century mechanical engineer and author of the unique technological manuscript wonderfully entitled Kitāb al-asrār fī natā'ij al-afkār (The Book of Secrets as the Results of Thoughts).

A fragment of The Book of Secrets

ADER can certainly be forgiven for the years of waiting for the water clock to be restored. Their work involves protection and preservation of a huge number of historic sites in the medina of Fez, including 43 Islamic schools, 83 mausoleums and zaouïas, 176 mosques, the Quaraouiyine university, 40 hammams and some 70 km of water networks.

At a recent ADER meeting its director, Fouad Serrhini, pointed out that the Medina is home to 1.276 artisanal art workshops employing nearly 40,000 artisan and that there are 12 specialised souks, 9,600 shops and three major traditional tanneries.


Serrhini also noted that the Medina of Fez is a living example an intact medina and that ADER would continue to safeguard the urban and architectural heritage and ensure its integration into the economy and the development of commercial, craft, culture and tourism, in addition to enhancing the attractiveness of the Medina for its inhabitants as well as visitors.

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Sunday, November 22, 2015

Casablanca's Lincoln Hotel May Be Saved


The Lincoln Hotel, architectural jewel of Casablanca, may finally be restored after being abandoned for several years and threatening to collapse


Built in 1917 by the French architect Hubert Bride, the Lincoln hotel is a symbol of Casablanca's past. The Arabesque Art Deco building has had a colourful history, including housing American spies during World War II when it was the headquarters for the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), a United States intelligence agency formed during World War II.

Located on Boulevard Mohammed V, in the heart of downtown Casablanca, the hotel stood out for its neo-Moorish style and its carved wooden lintels.

Over time the hotel suffered from neglect; its facade blackened. One of its terraces collapsed in 1989, causing two deaths. After the accident the hotel closed down and the building was abandoned. The landowner, restricted from demolishing the building legally, allowed squatters to occupy the hotel in hopes that the infrastructure would not hold up to their occupation and the building might disintegrate naturally. A further death occurred in 2004 and in February this year (2015) another collapse caused the death of one man and injuries to two more.


Although having been abandoned for more than two decades, there has been constant calls for its preservation and restoration, especially from the conservation group, the Casamémoire Association. Architectural activists, city authorities and the Ministry of Culture prevented the destruction of the façade, and the site was named a National Historic Landmark which ensured that the landowner could not tear down the building.

Now the city authorities have launched a call for expressions of interest for the redevelopment and renovation of the hotel.

According to the announcement by the Urban Commune of Casablanca, the project includes the renovation of the hotel on an area of ​​2,500 m2 and which must safeguard its authentic architectural style. Investors and developers have been called to submit tenders for the project.

If the plan succeeds, a faded architectural gem will rise from the rubble.

To see more about the Casamémoire Association, CLICK HERE. 

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Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Moroccans Celebrate Independence Day


November 18th in Morocco is known as Eid Al Istiqulal (Independence Day), and honours the return of King Mohammed to Morocco from exile in Madagascar. On this day the king proclaimed the freedom of Morocco from France and Spain who had colonised the country for 44 years


Independence Day is a national holiday in Morocco and throughout the country Moroccans celebrate the 59th anniversary of their country’s independence.

Yet there are still many who think that Morocco’s independence is not complete and point to the remaining territories that still needed to be liberated - Sebta, Melilla and the Moroccan Sahara.

Samir Bennis, writing for Morocco World News suggests that "Morocco has never gotten rid of French dominance, and that Moroccans currently live under another form of colonialism, a cultural, linguistic, and class-based colonialism that has lingered in government, business, and academia".

Those issues aside, Moroccans have a lot to bcelebrate. The country negotiated the so-called Arab Spring, with great sucess and as a result the country is the safest and most tolerant in the region. Development continues, and although there are still many issues to deal with, a majority of Moroccans fell positively about the future. Poverty, corruption and unemployment remain, but there is tangible progress being made.

Google added it's congratulations!


The View From Fez congratulates Morocco on Eid Al Istiqulal



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Friday, November 06, 2015

Commemorative "Green March" Coins Minted

To mark the 40th anniversary of the Green March, Bank Al-Maghrib (BAM) has issue commemorative silver coins with a face value of 250 dirhams

These coins will be sold at the Al-Maghrib Bank Museum and at the counters of Bank Al-Maghrib as of November 9th.

The pieces have the effigy of King Mohammed VI and "Mohammed VI" and "The Kingdom of Morocco", transcribed in Arabic.

On the reverse, they show the map of the Kingdom and a stylised representation of the Green March, the anniversary date "November 6, 2015" with the words "40th anniversary of the Green March" in French and Arabic, and the face value "250 DH "in Arabic.

These silver coins (silver 29.5% and copper 75%) weigh 28.28 grams and are 38.61 millimetres in diameter.


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Morocco Celebrates 40th Anniversary of Green March


Friday, November 6, is a special day for Moroccans. Daily newspapers across the country are unanimous in stressing the renewed mobilisation of the king and people to not only defend but also continue the development of the Moroccan Sahara
The Green March was a popular march of enormous proportions. On November 6, 1975, approximately 350,000 unarmed Moroccans converged on the city of Tarfaya in southern Morocco and waited for a signal from King Hassan II to cross into the region of Sakiya Lhmra. They brandished Moroccan flags and Qur'an; banners calling for the return of the Moroccan Sahara, photographs of the King and the Qur'an; the colour green for the march's name was intended as a symbol of Islam. As the marchers reached the border, the Spanish Armed Forces backed down and Spanish troops also cleared some previously mined zones.


Today Morocco's newspapers point out that the visit of King Mohammed VI to the Sahara marks the beginning of a new march for the development of the Saharan provinces.  Al Alam,  an Arabic-language paper, says ,"The country's advanced regionalisation is a democratic response from Morocco to the desperate attempts of those who want to challenge its historical and legitimate right to its southern provinces,"

Another of the Arabic language papers, Al Ittihad Al Ichtiraki, gave coverage of the Green March in 1975, which mobilised 350,000 Moroccans to march to recover the Saharan provinces armed only the "weapon" of the Holy Qur'an and olive branches. The paper went on to say that the new challenge is to establish and restore democracy and development for the benefit of the entire population of the Moroccan Sahara.

The same tone is voiced in the columns of Al Massae which devoted four pages under the headline "The Sahara issue ..." They also examined the visit of King Mohammed VI this Friday, to Laayoune and then to several other southern provinces.

A visit that, according to Al Massae, will increase the administrative regionalisation of the Sahara before the implementation of the autonomy plan for the population which will grant broad powers for Saharan self-management within the framework of Moroccan sovereignty.

The North Africa Post (on line) says: "There are very few events in the history of a country that transcend time and generations to remain vivid in the memory of all, old and young, there are few events that bear a historical grandeur and a sense of destiny and belonging. Morocco has such an event. That was the Green March, the unprecedented march, both symbolic and popular, of 350,000 Moroccans who walked hundreds of kilometres to peacefully recover a part of their country, the Western Sahara, which was under Spanish dominion."
No shots were fired, not a single drop of blood was shed and Morocco retrieved its Sahara. That was in 1975.
The North Africa Post concludes, "The centuries-old historical, geographical, and ethnical ties that existed between the Sahara and Northern Morocco that were broken by colonialism for decades were stitched again thanks to the genius idea of the late king Hassan II, the architect of the epic, who thought out and planned every detail of the March".



Anniversary pardons

As the country celebrates, Mohammed VI has pardoned hundreds of Moroccans from the Sahara and forty Salafists.

The total number pardoned is 4215 people who were serving sentences in different prisons of the kingdom.

According to a Ministry of Justice and Freedoms press release, 3539 prisoners have had the remainder of their sentences cut and been released. Among the pardoned prisoners are 69 people released on humanitarian grounds and 561 others who have gained a degree or further education.

A further 639 detainees have benefited from remission including 218 from the Moroccan Sahara and 421 detainees who graduated or who are studying or training.

The Department of Justice says that 37 Salafist prisoners held on terrorism charges but who have shown their willingness to reintegrate into society and to renounce violence, have been released.

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Saturday, October 24, 2015

Sijilmasa ~ The Last Civilised Place - Lecture in Fez

The Last Civilized Place: Sijilmasa and Its Saharan Destiny is a new book by Ronald Messier and James Miller. It is also the subject of a lecture by the authors at the ALC/ALIF Annex Auditorium on Monday October 26th at 6 PM
Many people know the word, "Sijilmasa," and regard its existence as merely legendary. What was the reality of Sijilmasa, perhaps the most important forgotten place in Moroccan history?

Set along the Sahara's edge, Sijilmasa was an African El Dorado, a legendary city of gold. But unlike El Dorado, Sijilmasa was a real city, the pivot in the gold trade between ancient Ghana and the Mediterranean world. Following its emergence as an independent city-state controlling a monopoly on gold during its first 250 years, Sijilmasa was incorporated into empires — Almoravid, Almohad, and onward—leading to the "last civilized place" becoming the cradle of today's Moroccan dynasty, the Alaouites. Sijilmasa's millennium of greatness ebbed with periods of war, renewal, and abandonment. Today, its ruins lie adjacent to and under the modern town of Rissani, bypassed by time.

This account of the Moroccan-American Project at Sijilmasa (1988 to 1998) draws on archaeology, historical texts, field reconnaissance, oral tradition, and legend to weave the story of how this fabled city mastered its fate. The authors' deep local knowledge and interpretation of the written and ecological record allow them to describe how people and place molded four distinct periods in the city's history.

Messier and Miller compare models of Islamic cities to what they found on the ground to understand how Sijilmasa functioned as a city. Continuities and discontinuities between Sijilmasa and the contemporary landscape sharpen questions regarding the nature of human life on the rim of the desert. What, they ask, allows places like Sijilmasa to rise to greatness? What causes them to fall away and disappear into the desert sands?



About the authors:

Professor Ron Messier is professor emeritus at the Department of History at Middle Tennessee State University and his interest in numismatic history led to him organising the project to excavate Sijilmasa, which began in 1987 with a visit to the site and continued over six seasons of digging from 1988 to 1998,

James Miller, Director of the Moroccan-American Commission in Rabat, is a cultural geographer who taught in the Department of History and Geography at Clemson University in South Carolina for 29 years before coming to Rabat in 2009 to run the Fulbright Program.

The ALIF Annex is at 22 Rue Mohamed Diouri in the Ville Nouvelle.

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