Nur - A Fez Restaurant Review

The opening of the Nur restaurant in Fez was greeted with much excitement. For good reason. Chef Najat Kaanache presents seven courses of fine food with creativity and flare

Najat Kaanache

While there is no menu to select from, the choice is the number of courses. Having no notion of what they are makes for an interesting, if somewhat confusing, experience.  The lack of a wine list, however, is a flaw. The wine on offer turned out to be one of the very cheap Moroccan labels at a price per glass that was around the same price as a bottle in the local liquor outlets. It was not at a quality that mirrored that of the food. Another visitor was charged 300 dirhams for a bottle of Guerrouane!

On the night The View From Fez sampled the fare on offer, we opted for the four courses and were greeted with some of them being so small as to hardly be worthy of the name. The first, a tiny glass of pomegranate juice (delicious), was insignificant - we thought it was a complimentary amuse-bouche. Sadly not.

The second course was a standout - an artistically presented salad that resembled a work of art and tasted as fresh and delicious. It was (in contrast to the "first course") generous. The third course was a very small portion of salmon with an arrangement of potatoes and other vegetables. It was beautifully presented but a triumph of art over content. Unfortunately the salmon was lost, drowned beneath a sea of green sauce.

The final course, which we initially thought to be a dessert, turned out to be a a rich and tasty portion of chicken in chocolate sauce. Again, delicious, but small.

There is no doubting the quality of the food, however, being at a price point well above comparable quality restaurants such as Dar Roumana, makes it less attractive for locals who regularly dine out. Fortunately there are now many options, Hotel Sahrai, Palais Amani, The Ruined Garden, Fez Cafe, Maison Blanche, Dar Roumana, Maison Moi Anan and more.

Service was friendly but slightly confusing for mere anglophones as we were unable to discover what was on offer in advance; essential when ordering an accompanying glass of wine.  Even a chalkboard description of the menu would be an improvement. Failing that, a description of each course by the waiter so that the customer can order which courses he or she wants.

Talking to locals in Fez, they agree that the Medina needs restaurants and chefs like Najat and it is hoped that after their settling in period they offer a reasonable wine-list, and a menu which offers  more affordable options - even if slightly less artistic. In the end, food is not just to be looked at, it is to be eaten. The Fez restaurant market is very seasonal and during the quiet times, a restaurant needs solid support from the locals.

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New Chefs at Resto 7 - Food With Flare

Mix fresh Moroccan ingredients with Canadian experience and know-how, add a dash of Brazilian vibrancy, and what do you get? The new team of chefs at Resto 7

The team: Erica Bernhardt, Haley Polinsky and Gastao Rodrigues

Erica Bernhardt, Haley Polinsky and Gastao Rodrigues began their residency at the acclaimed pop-up restaurant last month, and will be cooking for Fez locals and visitors until January 17.

Dishes they have created so far include cucumber grape gazpacho, avocado roll with harissa shrimp; Fenugreek braised short-ribs, jerusalem artichoke puree, slow cooked onions and walnut salsa; fresh cheese gnocchi with roasted grapes and fennel, butter white wine sauce.

When The View From Fez team ate at Resto 7 last week, each dish was like an artwork, and the mix of flavours perfectly complemented one another.

delicious gnocchi 

It's not the first time that Haley Polinsky has worked in Fez. She spent time in the kitchen while  previous chefs Harry and Laura were in residence at Resto 7. "I came at the end of their residency and had a really positive experience here. The quality of food they were producing with the local produce was really great."

Knowing that running the Resto 7 kitchen on her own would be a formidable task, she asked two friends, Erica and Gastao, to join her. She knew that both were highly creative, and would respond to the challenge of working with seasonal ingredients and supplies that are not always reliable. "Erica and I ran another pop-up (in Canada), Galette Girls," she says.

From a small town in the Canadian province of Saskatchewan, Haley grew up on a honey farm. "so agriculture was a big part of my life," she says. She loved cooking with her mother, and decided to go to culinary school in Vancouver when she finished high school. On completion, she worked in catering, and then moved to Toronto, "...and got more into food scene". She met Erica while working at the restaurant C5 at Royal Ontario Museum.

Fenugreek braised short-ribs, jerusalem artichoke puree, slow cooked onions, walnut salsa

Stints at restaurants Grand Electric and Bar Isabel followed, before, "I quit my job last December and went travelling for five months. That's when I came to Morocco."

Haley's ethos is "to use as much local product as possible. I think it's important to know the farmer, and how the food is produced." She also works as a food stylist for professional photographers, "which is such a chilled atmosphere compared to working in the kitchen."

Erica Bernhardt was born in Rio de Janeiro, but her family left when she was young. "My mom worked for the Brazilian foreign service, so I grew up in the United States and the Czech Republic. Then I lived for a long time in Brazil as a teenager." After finishing a Masters in Political Sociology, Erica moved to Toronto. "I wanted to do something more practical, so I went to cooking school" After finishing, she began cooking fulltime, and worked at the Beverley Hotel and Opus restaurant. "I met Haley at C5, where I worked for a year and a half." Erica has been working as a pastry chef for the past three years, and during that time she and Haley started the pop-up "Galette Girls".

Galettes, or French pastry tarts, are something they have returned to with their lunchtime offerings at Resto 7, where delicious and beautifully presented savoury tarts are offered with a salad.

"This is my first time in Morocco. Initially, I felt completely overwhelmed when we walked into the Medina. I am super-excited about the markets. That's my favourite part of shopping."

Erica has created an unusual dessert with amlou, a Berber mix of ground almonds, honey and olive oil. "I made crème anglais, stirred the amlou into that, then set it with gelatine and breaded it with sweet feuilletine crumbs. It's then fried and served with caramelised bananas and wild strawberry jam.

Her partner, Gastao Rodrigues, was born in the tiny Brazilian city of Parnaiba. "I lived on a farm from when I was eight to thirteen, with pigs, cattle, sheep, orstrichs, coffee and sugar cane. I had a really fun time helping to take care of it."

Later during his teen years, they moved back to the city and Gastao's parents opened a restaurant. "I didn't know what I wanted to do, so I went to law school for a year and quit and decided to travel." His parents suggested he acquire a practical skill before he went, so Gastao took cooking lessons from the chef at his parents restaurant. "I couldn't fry an egg before I started."

While visiting Toronto, Gastao decided to take a cooking course his cousin had enrolled in. After graduating, he worked in a Portuguese restaurant for a couple of years, working his way up to being the chef. Then, from 2010 he was at a Brazilian restaurant, the Copacabana Steak House, followed by the Shibui Robata Bar from 2014. "I was working pretty much seven days a week, and learned a lot of Japanese techniques from Masaki, a Japanese chef from New York."

Five years ago, he met Erica at a party, and they have been together since.
"At first, when Haley asked us to come to Morocco, we said absolutely no way. But then we changed our minds."

"At first I thought it was a little overwhelming, but it has some similarity with places in Brazil, that are also crowded and disorganised."

Cucumber grape gazpacho, avocado roll with harissa shrimp

One of the aspects the trio have had to get to grips with is the "nose to tail" approach to meat in Morocco. "Shortly after we arrived, we went to the butcher and asked for eighty lamb shanks. He looked at us horrified and asked, do you know how many lambs I will need to kill to get that many? What will I do with the rest of the animal?"

Gastao says they are enjoying finding new ways to use the produce they find. "During the first week we cured trout with beets. And I really like the small 'beldi' lemons here. We sliced them really thin and burnt them slightly."

With the different cultural influences in their backgrounds, and their years of professional experience, Haley, Erica and Gastao are making the most of their time in Fez. Their dishes not only look exquisite, but the blend of flavours and textures in their dishes are carefully thought out, and work extremely well. If you have the opportunity to try their fare, I encourage you to take it.

To find out more about Restaurant Numero 7, also known as Resto 7, visit their website. CLICK HERE. 

Words and portrait photo by Suzanna Clarke. Food photographs by Haley Polinsky. 


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Seffarine Gets a Makeover

Place Seffarine is one of the most visited tourist attractions in the old Medina of Fez. With its large central plane tree giving a little shade, it is an ideal place to spend some time and soak up the atmosphere of the medina

On one side of the square is the Kairaouine Library; on the other, the Seffarine Medersa, and all around are coppersmiths hammering their wares into shape: huge cauldrons, stills for making rosewater, kettles, pots and samovars.

Now the square is getting a makeover. The row of small shops are being refurbished in traditional style and the Restaurant Seffarine, with its panoramic terrace, is now open to visitors wanting to rest a while and have a snack. For those who simply want mint tea or a coffee the Cremerie La Place is still in business at the Kairaouine end of the square, opposite the street leading down to the tanneries.

Restaurant Seffarine is situated above the copper souk

Restoration and renewal of the small shops continues

The roof of the Seffarine Hammam

According to the University of Liverpool, the Seffarine Hammam "should be restored as one of the most interesting public baths in Fez, especially with regard to the undressing room of its historical section, as this is one of the rare meshlah of the city that still preserves the original layout and decorative features. It also displays the traditional Roman hypocaust heating system and the original furnace.

The practice of going to the hammam is, in fact, still very popular in Morocco, in contrast with other Mediterranean areas. In particular, in Fez this is evident not only in poor areas, but also in recently developed wealthy quarters, where new hammams are still being built, in spite of the fact that the existing dwellings have their own private bathroom conveniences.

Restaurant Seffarine is the brainchild of the owners of the very popular Cremerie La Place. They have capitalised on the view of the copper souk in one direction and the Seffarine Hammam in the other.

  "Visitors get the spectacular view for free" - Mustapha

Mustapha, who runs the Cremerie, told The View From Fez that Seffarine needed a proper restaurant. "Not expensive. Main courses around fifty dirhams and they get the spectacular view for free!"

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Festive Fez Food

A few places remain at the best restaurants to eat in Fez on Christmas Day and New Year's Eve. See them listed in alphabetical order, below. But be quick!

Dar Roumana

Fireside at Dar Roumana

Celebrate the festive season at Dar Roumana in an atmosphere of cosy luxury. Blending the exotic beauty of a Moroccan courtyard, with elements from home such as a roaring open fire, mulled wine and the scent of pine from a real Christmas tree, you will have the best of both worlds.

On offer are set-six course menus for 600 dh, crafted from the best available local ingredients by skilled French chef Vincent. Dishes on Christmas Day include porcini soup with argan oil and crispy bacon; a choice of John Dory fish or seared lamb tenderloin for mains and dark chocolate pudding for dessert.

The menu on New Year's Eve includes homemade porcini ravioli, sea bream with pea puree and langustine bisque, seared lamb tenderloin, with bitter chocolate tart for dessert.

The main dining room at Dar Roumana

Enhancing the ambience will be a six-member Moroccan band led by a talented oud player. Be quick, they are almost fully booked for Christmas Day and New Year's Eve.

Contact: 06 60 29 04 04 or info@darroumana.com.

Fez Cafe

Sparkling ambiance at Fez Cafe

The colourful and cosy Fez Cafe at Jardin des Biehn is putting on a delicious spread for Christmas Day and New Year's Eve.

Their five course Christmas Day menu includes grilled scallops on a bed of artichokes and argan oil; duck confit, mille-feuilles of fish and cardoons with anchovy and shrimp juice, with a selection of Christmas desserts.

The New Year's Eve menu includes a glass of champagne, foie gras and fig compote with vanilla and a glass of port, mushroom and royal shrimp risotto; lamb shank with dried fruit, with chocolate cake for dessert.

 Both menus are 759 dirhams, with soft drinks included. (Wine is available at an additional cost.) Musical ambience will be provided an oud and a flute player.

Contact: 0664647679 or contact@jardindesbiehn.com

Riad Karawan

The comfortable and stylish terrace of Riad Karawan 

The latest luxury riad hotel to open in the Andalous quarter, Riad Karawan is open for scrumptious Sunday brunch and afternoon teas during the week. From December 25, they will be open for lunch on their terrace, which has a spectacular view over the Medina, the Ottoman-inspired courtyard, or in their romantic dining room. Their lunch menu includes foie gras; filet of duck; filet of St Pierre or whatever type of fish is best in the market, and a dessert course. Two courses with a glass of wine cost 175 dh and three courses with a glass of wine cost 250 dirhams.

Contact: 05 35 63 78 78 or karawanriad@gmail.com

The restaurant at Riad Karawan

Maison Moi Anan

Tranquility and great Thai food

The best Thai food in town - indeed many towns - is at the recently opened Maison Moi Anan off the Talaa Kbira, where designer and Thai chef extraordinare, Anan, cooks up a storm. Using the freshest of local ingredients, supplemented by imported herbs and spices, the subtle and authentic blend of flavours is an unexpected but exciting experience to find in the Fez Medina.

Anan's eight course Christmas Day menu includes "Sleeping Beauty shrimp, with snowman scallops", duck and pineapple red curry, and fish of the day with aubegine in green curry. The set menu is 400 dirhams, excluding wine.

Contact: 06 28 88 79 09 or 05 35 63 57 13 or anan_sorsutham@yahoo.com

Resto 7

Elegance and fine food at Resto 7

The food renaissance at Restaurant Numero 7, (commonly referred to as "Resto 7"), has been brought about by an innovative program of chef's residencies. The most recent team to grace the kitchen are Harry Cummins, from England, and Laura Vidal, from Canada, who are running the restaurant until the end of January. Winning accolades for their pop-up restaurants at numerous cities around the globe, the pair offer creative, unexpected and mouth-watering menus of an extraordinarily high standard.

For Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, their "beldi market market tasting menu" (determined by available ingredients), will be 675 dirhams, and their New Year's Eve and New Year's Day menu will be 775 dirhams. And do try sommelier Laura's divine vermouth, flavoured with local fruits and spices.

Contact: 06 69 42 77 849 or reservationsat7@gmail.com

The Ruined Garden

Intimate atmosphere and great food at The Ruined Garden

Over winter, the atmosphere of the The Ruined Garden restaurant is enhanced by the braziers and cosy fireplace. As well as their regular lunch time offerings, such as double-fried doughnut filled with home-smoked salmon and egg, served with warm Moroccan salads, over the Christmas period they also have the Fassi celebratory dish of Mechoui - seven hour slow cooked lamb, stuffed with plums or apricots and spices. This needs to be ordered one day in advance.

They are also holding a New Years Eve function. A welcome cocktail, four course dinner and a
glass of sparkling wine at midnight is 660 dirhams, excluding wine. There will be drums and trumpets, and pots and pans to herald in the New Year.

Contact: 06 49 19 14 10 or riadandgarden@gmail.com

... and Seasons Greetings from The View from Fez! 

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Dynamic Duo Resident at Fez's Resto 7

Chef Harry Cummins and sommelier and host Laura Vidal 

Restaurant Numero 7 in the Fez Medina has been surprising and delighting food lovers since their international chefs-in-residence program began. The View From Fez meets the latest team to take over the kitchen

As a Fez resident, it's a pleasure to take visitors to Restaurant Numero 7 in the Medina, and watch their faces as the food arrives. They are invariably astonished by the quality, combination of flavours and creativity of what is presented. "I'd be lucky to eat food like this at home in Paris," said Kiki, a recent guest.

The food renaissance at Restaurant Numero 7, (commonly referred to as "Resto 7"), has been brought about by an innovative program of chef's residencies. The most recent team to grace the kitchen are Harry Cummins, from England, and Laura Vidal, from Canada, who are running the restaurant until the end of January.

Harry and Laura are no strangers to taking over an existing kitchen - in December 2012 they founded Paris-Pop Up, where they moved into existing restaurants temporarily. "Restaurants are usually closed at least one day a week," explains Laura, "So we would take over the spaces, cover their fixed costs and invite the chef to dinner as a 'thank you'. It brings a spirit of exchange, and a breath of fresh air."

The concept was so successful that, rather than opening their own restaurant, they took it on the road, creating pop up restaurants in Montreal, New York, Oakland, Kyoto, Quebec City and London.

So how did they gain the confidence to make a success of this unusual approach?

Harry Cummins describes himself as a "cooking school drop-out", but this phrase belies his extensive hands-on experience. Brought up in London's Camden Town, he moved to Bath aged 14. He says he learned a lot about enjoying food from his grandmother, who introduced him to dishes like rabbit and regularly made cakes and crumbles. "And she had a partner who came from a family of Italian restauranteurs," says Harry.

Beetroot Gazpacho

At 15, Harry began making puddings for a little restaurant called Tilly's. "In the kitchen, everyone started from zero," Harry says. "No-one cared about how much money your family had - it was about what you could do, and you got an immediate reaction."

After doing a year at catering college, he decided he preferred the hands-on approach instead, and began working at Tilly's full time.

Taking some time off to travel, Harry was then offered a position at Jamie Oliver's Fifteen, where he stayed for two and a half years. Stints at Michelin-starred restaurants, including Zafferano, Wild Honey and Arbutus followed, before he moved to Paris to help an old friend from Fifteen, Greg Marchand, start his wine bar, Frenchie.

"Product is, of course, very important," he says. "If you live in an urban environment, you should make use of what is around you." But being creative with what is available is naturally a quinessential part of the process. "It's 50% product; 50% transformation through creativity."

Laura Vidal and Harry met at Frenchie in 2010, where she was the sommelier. It was a dream role, travelling around vineyards, sourcing excellent wines. After she and Harry got together, "we never left each other's side," she says.

Bream, carrot, pomegranate and coriander

A Canadian from Montreal, Laura says, "I was always interested in eating." At 19, she found herself working in an Italian restaurant while doing a Bachelor of Commerce at McGill University. "But I had no clue what I really wanted to do," she says. "I was working more than studying - working and partying. With the tips, the money was good."

After graduating, Laura worked for a private equity firm. "I hated it," she said. "I really didn't like working at a desk." So one day, she quit. Then, enterprisingly, she went to the best restaurant in Montreal, Club Chasse et Pêche, and offered to do anything they needed. "So I ended up clearing plates, and hostessing," she says. "They had a weekly wine tasting, for everyone from the dishwasher to the owner. It was a blind tasting, and I became interested in wine." The head sommelier told her he thought she had what it took, "so they paid to send me to sommelier school."

After working at other restaurants, "I moved to Paris in September 2010, and in December I met Greg Marchand, who was looking for someone to take over Frenchies wine list." There, of course, she met Harry, and in December 2012, they created the first Paris Pop Up restaurant.

 Bream with petits pois, broad beans and artichoke

Their Fez adventure has only recently begun, and Laura has already created her own range of vermouths. On the night TVFF visited, we were offered a choice of vermouths flavoured with fruits and spices as an aperitif. The verdict? Dangerously more-ish.

Harry and Laura offer a five course menu for 355 dirhams, (excluding wine and service). On our menu was beetroot gazpacho; thin slivers of raw bream and carrot garnished with pomegranate; cooked bream in a soup of petits pois, broad beans and artichoke; and lamb with rice and wild porcini mushrooms. For dessert there was a mix of chocolate, banana, dates and crushed, toasted nuts.

Harry doing some kitchen wizardry 

The portions were elegantly sufficient, and the flavours delicately balanced. It's clear there is someone in the kitchen who cares a great deal. And a brief visit to see Harry between courses showed the intense concentration with which he works.

There were a few surprises on the menu - like the sweet seeds of pomegranate with the fresh fish. Between the entree and main courses "Colette's salad" may be served - a palate cleanser which is a tradition handed down from Laura's French mother.

If you are in Fez, a visit to Resto 7 at least once is highly recommended. It will surprise and delight you, and you may just find yourself coming back for more.

Where: Restaurant Numero 7 is at 7 Zkak Rouan 
Reservations: reservationsat7@gmail.com or + 212 (0) 694277849 (Pick ups from riads are possible.) 
Info: www.restaurantnumero7.com

Lamb with rice and wild porcini mushrooms

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Changing the Chefs ~ Chefs in Residence at Restaurant Numero 7 in Fez

The re-opening of Resto 7 back in May saw the introduction of an innovative Chefs in Residence programme. Right from the beginning with chef-in-residence Jerome Waag of Chez Panisse in California, through to Australian chef, Analiese Gregory, over the last few months, the programme has been a success. Now it is time for a change and the new team of Harry Cummins (UK) and Laura Vidal (Canada) will re-open the restaurant on Saturday 15th November and be resident in Fez until the end of January 2015

Laura and Harry arrived in the Fez Medina this week and are exploring the local markets and farms.

“Moroccan markets filled with bright colours, spices, fresh herbs and fragrant teas have always appealed to me,” says Harry. “It's a chef’s playground and I can’t wait to get my hands on all these wonderful ingredients to inspire some fantastic dishes.”

Laura meanwhile is excited to get to grips with Moroccan wines. “But also the herbs and spices that I could use to make vermouth, teas and infusions for original pairings,” she adds.

The duo are veteran pop-up restauranteurs who have worked in a heap of places from Frenchie in Paris to El Celler de Can Roca in Spain, with innumerable countries in between.

Harry Cummins has been in the kitchen since he was 15 years old, working in London at Jamie Oliver's Fifteen for three years before joining teams at several Michelin-starred restaurants including Zafferano, Wild Honey and Arbutus. He moved to Paris when an old pal from Fifteen, Greg Marchand, invited him to come help set his new Frenchie Wine Bar where he met Laura.

Laura’s love of wine started at Quebecois restaurant in Montreal where weekly wine tastings were organised for everyone from dishwasher to head chef to spread the love of wine. She was hooked and moved to Paris in search of fine vintages and adventure, and coincidentally also ended up at Frenchie where she spent the next three years travelling around European vineyards sourcing great wines for the new wine bar. So began their beautiful love affair and a shared passion for food and wine that they were destined to share with the world.

In 2012, they founded the Paris Pop-Up staging one-day, food and wine events. It proved so successful they took it on a round-the-world tour travelling to Canada, the US, Japan and South-East Asia in order to learn about each country’s culinary heritage and share their unique interpretation of it.

When they returned to Europe at the start of 2014 the pair immediately headed for El Celler de Can Roca (voted best restaurant in the world in 2013) where Laura worked as Sommelier and Harry in the pastry kitchen.

Please note that the restaurant is closed until November 15th while chefs changeover. However reservations are now open.

harry cummins and laura vidal chefs in residence at restaurant numero 7
reservationsat7@gmail.com +212 (0) 694 277 849 

Find out more about the Chefs in Residence at Restaurant Numero 7 CLICK HERE


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Fashion Meets Thai Food in Fez

An original and brave new venture is about to open in the Fez Medina - a Thai restaurant and fashion boutique. The creative vision behind the bold combination is Thai fashion designer and chef Anan Sorsutham. Last night Fez locals got a taste of what is to come

Designer and chef Anan Sorsutham, in front of a photo of his family's rice farm

Anan Sorsutham first visited Fez two years ago, to take part in Fez Fashion Day. When he returned the following year, "I made dinner for a group of friends, and they said to me, 'why don't you open a restaurant'? So I thought, 'why not?' My two passions are fashion design and cooking."

The designer bought a dar just off the Ta'laa K'bira, and set to work. "It's taken about a year and a half," he says. Now the renovation is complete, and the restaurant and boutique Moi Anan Boutique Thai Restaurant will open in about 10 days' time.

Last night a group of Fez locals were invited to see the impressive extent of Anan's creativity, with a fashion show of his designs. The beautiful Thai silks and other luxurious fabrics had been crafted into exquisitely tailored garments. The show was accompanied by the music of the Hamadcha Sufi group.

Afterwards, the crowd moved down to the new restaurant. On the ground floor is an up-market boutique, while the main eating area is on the floor above. The terrace has lots of plants and tables, and will be wonderful on warm evenings. The interior is entirely painted in neutral grey; a colour that is easy on the eye and provides a stylish backdrop to the garments and diners. 

The main room in the restaurant will have several small tables, while there are two intimate dining spaces for groups.

Anan grew up in Thailand's north-east, and his parents were rice farmers - a photograph of their farm adorns the main dining room - so he was aware of the importance of food from an early age. "I am not going to cook as if I am in a restaurant," he says. "My idea is that I open my house to guests."

The interaction between nature and humanity is his main inspiration. "There is a Thai fairytale, where a tree in Himmapan forest in which fruits grow in the shape of a human body but those fruits have no soul," he says.

He is attempting to import several key ingredients, such as galangal and dried mushrooms from Thailand, but one of the biggest difficulties has been dealing with the vagaries of Moroccan customs, who often hold up packages for a considerable time.

One of the whimsical chairs in the main dining room

Two intimate dining spaces available to groups 

Anan, left, cooks up a storm with the help of a Thai student

Last night's meal consisted of a series of chicken and vegetable dishes, with distinctive and authentic Thai flavours that resemble what you would find in a traditional Thai home, or on the street, rather than the homogenised version of Thai food known in restaurants worldwide. Anan was ably assisted by some Thai students who study Arabic at a university in Fez.

The verdict? The food was absolutely delicious, and the prospects are promising for the Moi Anan restaurant - which is likely to fast become a Fez favourite.

Moi Anan Boutique Thai Restaurant can be found at 30 Zkak El Ma, Fez Medina. Phone: 053 563 57 13   www.moianan.com

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Fez Food: restaurant news

This week some of the best restaurants and cafes in Fez are re-opening after the summer break, while others have kept their doors open. There are also exciting new places to experience

Australian chef, Analiese Gregory, offers a creative approach at Resto 7 

Resto 7 

On Monday night the The View From Fez was fortunate to attend a delicious dinner at Resto 7, prepared by their new chef in residence from Sydney, Australia, Analiese Gregory. The four course meal showed her creative flair using locally sourced ingredients.The menu will change depending on what is fresh in the souq.

Dinner featured an entreé of sardines escabeche with sun blushed tomato and a tomato basil consumme and oven dried black olives, accompanied by tomato aoli with deep fried sardine bones. The main was roast pigeon with an amlou sauce, barley semolina, purslane and end of summer greens, scattered with puffed wild rice and a carrot puree. This was followed by fig leaf panna cotta with fresh figs and milk and honey granita, then rose and ras al hanaout mashmallow.

"My cooking is French influenced with some Chinese, due to my grandmother's cooking. And the pastry kitchen has always been my first love," says Analiese.

Over the past 15 years, she has worked at prestigious restaurants such as the Ledbury in London with Brett Graham, Le Meurice in Paris with Yannick Alleno and most recently at Quay in Sydney with Peter Gilmore.

You can try Analiese Gregory's fare from now until the end of October at Resto 7.

Resto 7 is located at 7 Zkak Rouan, 30200 Fez Medina. Contact: + 212 (0) 535 638924 
or reservationsat7@gmail.com   More info: CLICK HERE

Fez Café

Set in the lovely grounds of Jardin des Biehn, Fez Café has just re-opened. Manager Paul Biehn says, "During the break, we have updated the kitchen a lot; it is now much more professional."

Chef  Hicham Mousid continues to head the kitchen, as he has for the past five years. Previously he worked for a decade at Villa Mandarine in Rabat.

Paul says that this summer's Fez Café menu includes a starter of avocado and calamari tart, perfumed with preserved lemon and coriander. Mains include sea bass pavé with wild rice, as well as a traditional dish from Marrakesh, veal tanjier with red onions and spices. An example of their dessert menu is peach salad with saffron and lemon juice.

Fez Cafe is located at 13, Akbat Sbaa, Douh 30100, Fez Medina. Contact: +212(0)664 647 679 or contact@jardindesbiehn.com   More info: CLICK HERE

Dar Roumana

Chef Vincent Bonnin continues his excellent run at Dar Roumana, while his wife Vanessa Bonnin manages the place, which also offers accommodation. It's located near Bab Guissa, and like a number of the top restaurants, they offer a free porter to escort you to and from your residence.

Vincent has worked for Michelin-starred restaurants in the UK, The Gordelton Mill with Toby Hill and Fleur de Sel with Michel Perraud. In 2005, he worked for legendary French chef Paul Bocuse's right hand man, Philippe Mouchel, at The Brasserie in Melbourne, Australia before moving on to be head chef at several Australian restaurants. After relocating to Fez, he worked at the Majestic in the Ville Nouvelle.

The couple have just returned from a break in the United States. "We have been garnering new inspiration from the amazing restaurants in New York that we explored during our travels," says Vanessa.

While the menu naturally changes according to the freshest produce available, it may feature dishes such as a starter of smoked duck salad with fresh figs and pain d'epice, a main of char-grilled butterflied poussin marinated in date molasses with pomegranate seeds. A dessert may be poached pear with lemon and star anise, duet of orange and chocolate Sauce with roasted pistachios.

Dar Roumana is located at 30 Derb el Amer, Zkak Roumane, Fes Medina. 
Contact: +212 535 74 16 37  or +212 660 29 04 04 (mobile) or info@darroumana.com
More info: CLICK HERE


The Ruined Garden

Run by Robert Johnson and Sue Bail, The Ruined Garden is a firm favourite for casual lunch or evening dining. Tables and chairs are set among foliage, in the ruins of an ancient house in the grounds of the hotel Riad Idrissy.

The chef is Najia El Amrani. Once she was the housekeeper for the riad's former owners, but she now works with Robert creating the dishes for the restaurant. "Although most Moroccan women can cook, we were very lucky to find someone who was prepared to be innovative," Robert says.

The menu style of Ruined Garden is an eclectic fusion of Moroccan and Western flavours, which focuses mostly on seasonal, locally sourced produce. The hand written daily menu includes items like a starter of smoked aubegine, goat and cow cheese paté with fresh figs, a main of barbecued sardines with cold cooked Moroccan salads and a dessert of plain chocolate and espresso mousse.

The Ruined Garden is located at Sidi Ahmed Chaoui, Siaj, Fez. Contact: +212 (0) 649 19 14 10

More info: CLICK HERE

Mezzanine

After being extensively revamped with the help of new manager Pippa Smith, Mezzanine has re-opened. It's in a pleasant location opposite the Jnan Sbil gardens, which can be seen from the roof terrace. This bar/cafe/restaurant has benefited from an updated and much lighter colour interior, with taupe tadelkt walls, red leather cushions inside and comfortable sofas on the terrace.

Their new tapas menu features brioutes of seafood and minced beef, roquefort and walnut. There is also tabbouleh salad, salad nicoise and ceasar salad, as well as standards like hamburger and fries. For dessert there is apple crumble with vanilla ice cream or tart au citron.

Mezzanine is located at 17 Kasbat Chams, Fez. Contact: +212 (0) 611 07 83 36  or mezfez@gmail.com

More info: CLICK HERE


Hotel Sahrai

The newly opened Hotel Sahrai, in the road behind Borj Fez mall, has a wonderful view over the Fez medina. The colonnaded verandah is an excellent place to sit and enjoy a drink, or to sample their snack menu.

They have two formal restaurants - Relais de Paris which features typical French dishes such as the starter salade gourmande au foie gras, magret fumé et gésiers de canard and the main filet de Saint-Pierre, écrasé de pomme de terre à l’huile d’olive, with tarte aux fruits rouges being one of the desserts. There is also a Moroccan restaurant, Amaraz, which has the usual standards such as beef and prune tagine and a dessert of milk and grilled almond pastilla.

Hotel Sahrai is located at Bab Lghoul, Dhar El Mehraz, 30 000, Fez. Contact: +212 (0) 535 94 03 32 or reservations@hotelsahrai.com

More info:CLICK HERE

Cafe Clock

Owned by Mike Richardson, the Cafe Clock is much more than just a cafe - it's also a vibrant cultural hub where art exhibitions, concerts, films and workshops are held. It's a lively meeting place for both travellers and local Moroccans, and a cooking school. In fact the concept has been so successful, Mike has recently opened a new Cafe Clock in Marrakech.

Opposite the famous Medersa Bou Inania, a favourite Fez tourist destination, Cafe Clock is a great place to head for breakfast, lunch or a refreshing soft drink or cup of tea. They also make excellent coffee.

The menu lists items like aubergine and goats cheese quiche with ras al hanout potatoes, grilled chicken and citrus salad, and their famous Clock camel burger with Taza ketchup, salad and fries.

Cafe Clock is located at 7 Derb El Magana, (off the Ta'laa Sghira), 30000 Fez. 
Contact: +212 (0) 535 63 78 55 or fez@cafeclock.com

More info CLICK HERE

Cafe 44

Owned and managed by Zahra, the menu of Cafe 44 offers French style breakfasts - brunch including eggs and yoghurt - and a variety of light meals. You can choose from savoury dishes such as vegetable tart with salad; mixed salads and pastas including one with eggplant and crushed almonds. There are a variety of delicious fresh juices.

They have a two level terrace, and it's a low key and relaxing place to head for tea or coffee, lunch or a snack.

Cafe 44 is located Derb Bensalam, Talaa Kbira, Fez Medina. 
Contact: 06 34 70 75 13 or le44fes@gmail.com
More info: CLICK HERE

Coming soon...  Maison Moi Anan

Thai fashion designer Moi Anan is set to open the first Thai restaurant in the Fez Medina. Work is progressing on the interior and it is planned to open later this year, in combination with a boutique selling his designs. Thai flavours will be a welcome addition to increasing the diversity of food available in the Medina.

For more info on Moi Anan CLICK HERE

Story: Suzanna Clarke

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