Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas

Until recently anyone wanting detailed information on climbing in Morocco would turn to the 1942 edition of Le Massif du Toubkal by Jean Dresch and Jacques de Lépiney. Now that has all changed. The View from Fez just received a copy of a new book that is destined to become the definitive guide. The book is Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas by Des Clark. Here is our review.

Mountaineer and mountain guide Des Clarke is a man of many talents. Not only does he climb, take great photographs, but now he has shown that he can write.  Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas is subtitled "walks, climbs and scrambles over 3000m" and, that is what makes it a superb guide for many more people than simply experienced mountaineers.

A couple of practical points. The book is small enough to put in your pocket and the plastic-coated cover means it will stand up well to life in the mountains. The contents are just as well thought out. The first section of the book deals with all the basic information you need from grading and routes to practicalities such as visas, planning and maps, to respecting the environment. It is all well laid out and clearly explained.

 Toubkal South Ridge 

The main sections of the book are divided between the various climbing areas and describe some 50 routes and 30 main peaks. Each route is extremely well described with suggested equipment, time needed, rating of climb and starting point.

Illustrated with coloured sketch maps and photo-diagrams, the book is as pleasure to browse and a definite inspiration to grab your ice-axe, crampons and get going.

 Jebel Tinergwet 3551m (just north of Taroudant) 

This is the first book of its kind in English and is sure to remain an essential guide for a long time to come.

The book is available on-line with Amazon. CLICK HERE

The publishers also have it on their store and one of the benefits of buying it from them is that you can either the hard copy OR the eBook OR both together for a discounted price.
The link for this is: CLICK HERE

Moroccan Photography Competition #21

Toubkal (normal South Cwm route) with Timesguida and Ras Ouanoukrim in the back right - Photographer - Des Clarke

If you would like to submit a   photograph  taken in Morocco, please email it in jpeg or gif format to fes.riad@gmail.com and put "photo entry" in the subject line.

A  regularly updated collection of all the  photographs is now available   on The  View from Fez Photo  Journal

Chefchaouen - Morocco's mountain retreat

Chefchaouen is a blissful retreat in the Rif mountains that makes for a relaxing few days en route from Tangier to Fez. The View from Fez team reports.

Uta al-Hammam Square

While the new part of Chefchaouen clambers down the mountain, it's the medina perched up high that draws visitors. Clustered around the main square, Uta al-Hammam, the houses, doors, walls and even some pavements are painted various shades of blue that range from turquoise to mauve. The square is dominated by the sandstone kasbah that's now a museum, and has fascinating photographs of the town through the years. There's a peaceful garden inside the complex, too.

The rest of the square is lined with lots of restaurants with pavement tables. Here you can while away your time, sipping mint tea and people-watching ...


... or chewing the fat, like the locals:


Food at these pavement cafes is generally good, though the menu is always the same, basic Moroccan fare. Otherwise, there are some reasonably good restaurants on offer (the same menu again, though). The View from Fez was disappointed with the food at Casa Hassan, which seems to have lost the plot - lots of items on the menu were not available and what was on offer was pretty nondescript. Much better was Casa Aladin, with its three floors and a roof terrace and some interesting art on the walls that's all for sale.

There's a huge range of budget and medium-priced accommodation available in and around the medina, but little in the upper range. The Parador Hotel near the square is a pretty soulless place, but one of the only places with a bar. High up on the hill is the Atlas hotel with its disco and bar, but unless you're very fit, you'd need a car to get there.

The View from Fez team stayed at the colourful Dar Meziana on the northwestern edge of the medina. It's very comfortable and has great views over the medina from the roof terrace. Be warned, though, that prices include dinner at Casa Hassan; only breakfast is served at Dar Meziana itself.

Dar Meziana is up this pretty street

What to do in Chefchaouen
The main interest of many visitors to Chaouen is, apparently, partaking of the local herb ... but there's more to the town than that. There is an abundance of shops specialising in local clothing, jewellery, antiques, fossils and ceramics.

The shopping is good in Chefchaouen

On the hill opposite the town is an old, ruined mosque. This is now being restored and will be a working mosque, but visitors will still be welcome to climb the minaret for spectacular views across the valleys, and there'll be a cafe on site too.

The mountains around the town are great for hiking. If you're more adventurous, you could try climbing here too. Jonathan Ayrton is a qualified rock-climbing instructor who lives in Chaouen. He enthuses about the wide range of grades in the area; the limestone routes are bolted. A day's instruction costs around Dh550, or he'll accompany you if you're an experienced climber; phone him on 0615 435 018.

Dar Tassa - a Moroccan eco-retreat.

Dar Tassa a wonderful Berber house located in a remarkable situation. Driving from Marrakech (just over an hour), you turn off the highway and begin to ascend a mountain road. Every bend and corner opens up a new vista and for a moment you wonder if it is even possible that there is a refuge in such a magnificently wild environment.

The village of Tassa Ouirgane (click on photos to enlarge)

Another corner and there in front of you is the village of Tassa Ouirgane (1300 m), nestled into the mountainside above a wild river that tumbles from the heights above you. Through the village the road climbs again and then you arrive to where, perched on the mountainside, Dar Tassa awaits you.

Dar Tassa

At the door, Fatima and Hafida greeted The View from Fez with the traditional dates and milk ( and what sweet milk it was!). Dar Tassa literally means "the home of motherly love" in the local Berber language and it is a richly deserved name. From the moment we entered the house we felt not like guests, but members of the family.

Hafida and Fatima

Everywhere you look is photogenic.

From the entrance hall (with Berber slippers provided) through to the lounges and the suites and bedrooms, everything is tastefully decorated and with all anyone could need in order to feel truly at home.

Even hot water bottles for cold nights!

Then, just when you think you have seen everything, we were invited to Dar Tassa's tiled rooftop with an amazing 360 degree panaroma: spanning the snow capped peaks of Toubkal Park, sweeping down to give a bird's eye view on daily life in the sleepy Berber village, and flowing along the verdant riverbank to the distant vistas of the Azzedine Valley. It is breathtaking.

Stunning mountain vistas

Dar Tassa's owners are Andrea and Brahim Barkhouche. Brahim is a native Moroccan who felt compelled to return to his family's ancestral homeland and create a haven where he could share the magic of this mountain eden with its next generation of caretakers. They had taken great care to build the Dar in a respectful, traditional manner, using local materials and employing local craftsmen. What becomes evident is that the environmental ethos of the owners is reflected in everything about the place they have constructed.

What really puts the refuge on the map is its location in the shadow of the Takkerkhort Reserve, a long established sanctuary for the regal Barbary Sheep, endemic to Morocco and protected under the jurisdiction of the Eaux et Forets (Water and Forests Department of the Ministry). On hand are resident experts to guide you into the refuge with binoculars to increase your chances of spotting some members of this magnificent endangered species.

Obviously, walking, cycling, trekking and climbing are among the highlights, but simply resting amdist the tranquility and eating... Did we mention food? Fatima cooks up a storm and her skills mean that you don't simply end up with yet another tagine! The local honey is an absolute must!

The lounge and internal fountain

If you are not feeling too energetic Hafida organises short excursions to interesting places. The View from Fez team took in a local Berber market, visited Anraz, a strangely touching abandoned Jewish village that is carefully preserved for when the former residents return on the 26th of May each year to pay their respects at their Rabbi's tomb.

The Rabbi's tomb in the village of Anraz

Boys at the Berber market

We also had a detailed cooking lesson in the art of traditional Berber bread making.

Lalla Kebira produces fine Berber bread

See the full story on how to make Berber bread ( including a recipe) here: Baking bread the Berber way

We would like to thank Fatima, Hafida and Brahim for their hospitality.

All photographs: Sandy McCutcheon

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Climbing and trekking in Morocco

Mount Toubkal at 4167m is the highest peak in the Moroccan High Atlas Mountains and a magnet for those wanting an extraordinary climbing adventure. Getting information about the climb, the weather conditions and available accommodation and guides in the area has always taken a lot of searching, so we sent our own resident mountaineer, Sandy, to check out the best route to find the information you want.

After struggling through a mass of websites I finally found a couple of places that were packed with information, good advice and some inspiring photographs.

Toubkal Mountain Guides are an outfit with a great reputation in the climbing community. They are a small, independent mountain guiding company whose professional guides are drawn from all over the world. At the present time they employ Irish, English, French, Swiss & Americans.

Most of these guides live year-round in Morocco and have years of combined experience in leading small groups & individuals to some of the most remote and unspoilt areas in this fabulous mountain range.The Toubkal Mountain Guides are headed up by husband and wife team Des and Nathalie Clark.



Des Clark is an (Irish) professional International Mountain Leader and founding director of Wilderplaces Adventure Tours NI Ltd, an Irish company with its offices in the south of Morocco. Outside of the Moroccan High Atlas, he has climbed and guided extensively in the Alps, Pyrenees, Iceland, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina.



NathalieClark is a widely travelled & multi-lingual mother of three children. An experienced French & E.F.L. teacher, she especially enjoys the combination of wilderness travel & diverse ethnic cultures. Nathalie leads a number of cultural village and family adventure trips when not home-schooling! Trying to learn the unwritten Berber language Tashelhayt is just one of her current projects.

What I like about the Toubkal Mountain Guides websites ( they have a blog as well) is the emphasis on safety. Toubkal is not a picnic walk. The minimum time required for a fit individual is 3 to 4 days depending on weather conditions. There are two refuges below Toubkal. One is run by the Club Alpin Francais and the other a private venture called Mouflon. All reports suggest that for comfort, Mouflon is preferable.


Of course Toubkal is only one destination and as the related website NomadicMorocco points out "Both the Western High and Mgoun regions offer superb trekking and mountaineering - "far from the madding crowd"!

Although Ighil Mgoun has the attraction of being over 4000m (it is 4068m), it is far enough away from Marrakech and remote enough from the main valley regions to prevent it being over-run with day-trippers and the like.

The Western High Atlas are even less visited but there are some hidden gems to reward those who venture - Immaradene 3350m and Moulay Ali (also 3350m) being just two.

Incidently, NomadicMorocco is the trading name of Wilderplaces Adventure Tours NI Ltd (a company registered in Northern Ireland) but their office is based in southern Morocco.


Essential info - visit these links.

Toubkal Mountain Guides

Toubkal Mountain Guides Blog ( with weather conditions)

Nomadic Morocco

The View from Fez would like to thank Des Clark for permission to reproduce the photographs in this article.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

SPONSORED TREK TO THE SUMMIT OF JEBEL TOUBKAL

Support Lynn Evans in her quest to raise money for a great Moroccan cause. Lynn explains what she is doing and why....

IN SUPPORT OF THE SOCIAL, CULTURAL, EDUCATIONAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL WORK OF ASSOCIATION FES DHAR EL MEHRAZ

JEBEL TOUBKAL is the highest point in the Atlas mountains and indeed the whole of North Africa at 4,167 metres. It’s a long walk but, on the 29th April I hope to get to the summit of this beautiful and inspiring mountain, not just because it is there but because it seems like the perfect choice when my other objective is to raise money for some very inspiring and extraordinary people – my friends in the Association Fes Dhar El Mehraz.

Its core members founded the Social and Cultural Association in 1999 for the people of the bidonville of Fes Dhar El Mehraz, which houses thousands of families. I had the good fortune and the privilege to meet them in 2001 whilst researching for La Fondation Mohamed VI. I was so inspired by them that I wrote an article about the experience of my visit and its profound effect on me.

The Spirit of Dhar El Mehraz is nothing short of transformative – it transforms lives and creates miracles. In the tiny room which serves as the centre of the association its members create theatre and music with the local children. Plays are rehearsed, costumes created, music practiced, singing voices trained. The standards are impressive and the engagement is total. Several years ago they created a National Festival of Children’s Theatre. Every year children from all over Morocco – from as far away as Agadir –gather at Dhar El Mehraz. For workshops and performances, the exchange of ideas and awards for their work.

Make-up backstage Festival dans la Ville 2006

Other activities of the association include educational courses – from literacy for those who cannot read or write, often the elderly, to extra support for children preparing for exams, from IT to health and food issues. Sports teams are formed, trained and engaged in matches at regional and national levels, work creation projects are master-minded, environmental days are organised to involve the whole community in clearing up and tree-planting.

Above all they instil in the lives of the children such qualities as co-operation, laughter, dignity, engagemement, hope and the recognition of their own potential. Some of the children I’ve seen grow and blossom over the years. I asked one young girl, Sophia, what was the value of the Association to her. She simply said: “a good teacher is life”. She plans to become a teacher.

But what is really miraculous is that they have done all of this with virtually no money – just enormous amounts of energy and very big hearts. The Spirit of Fes Dhar El Mehraz is the magic that transforms .

It will perhaps be a small miracle if I get to the top of Toubkal. I’ve never « done » a mountain before but I’m training hard, well it feels quite hard. A couple of peaks in Snowdon over Easter were my first taste of the mixture of exhaustion and exhiliration – and the pain that follows. And that was just 994 metres – a mere molehill in comparison to the snow-peaked Toubkal. But it too will be appropriately magical.

Amongst the new projects born of the association is the creation of an Academy of Music and Performing Arts. It will be there to teach talented musicians, with free classes for poorer students. It will endeavour to bring the arts to the marginalised communities of Morocco. It will support the production of music, songs, film, video and theatre which carry the message of peace, tolerance, respect of others and dialogue between civilizations.

In February this year I was officially appointed an Honorary member of the Association. And, they have given me an even greater honour,for the very little support and encouragement, I feel, that I have been able to give them. To be honest I think that they have given me so much more than I could possibly return, for each time I meet with them I am profoundly touched by the Spirit of Dhar El Mehraz. My new unofficial title is «l’ ange gardien ». So I have a lot to live up to !

If I make it to the top of this beautiful mountain – it will be a very small achievment compared to all that has been achieved by the spirit of Fes Dhar El Mehraz - a spirit as indomitable as the Spirit of Jebel Toubkal. But climbing the biggest mountain in Morocco seems like a good start for an « ange gardien » especially if it helps to raise awareness of their work and convinces lots of people that they would like to contribute something towards its continuation and development helping them continue working their magic. So do please give if you can – I know that any contribution will multiply the transformative magic of the Spirit of Fes Dhar El Mehraz.

My contact is lynnevans80@hotmail.com if you want details of how to sponsor me or just contribute.

The View from Fez supports this sponsorship and invites you to contact Lynn.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Hiking and Climbing in Morocco.

Yesterday's story about exploring the hills around Fez on a mountain bike started me thinking about all of the outdoor activities that tend to be forgotten when you are snowed in in your riad. Our blogger friend Liosliath has also been thinking of the mountains and has a story of hiking up the road from her valley. There is a link to her story at the bottom of this post.

There are hundreds of places for climbing, trekking and even rafting, but here is a sample to give you a taste of what Morocco has to offer.

Biking is superb in Morocco and our pick would be the ride from the Todra Gorge to to the Tamatattouchte Pass and a great downhill run to the village of Msemrir. Then, from the Gorge du Dades to the village of Bou Thar. Bike tour operators will arrange transfers to most hotels in the region, for example it is possible to bike the zig-zag from Bou Thar to the head of the valley, followed by a downhill run to where you can be transfered to the Boulmaine Dades Hotel. One tour organisation does ten to twelve day trips, others offer shorter versions. With your own arrangements you can work out an itinerary that fits your budget and time.

Great places for Trekking.

Middle Atlas scenery

FROM FEZ

There is a great four and a half to five hour trek which starts from Azrou (where they hold the tuesday Souq) . The first destination is the summit of Ras Kharzouza (1900 m) which you reach by way of some beautiful juniper, oak and cork forests that give way to cedar at around 1600 m. From the top of Kharzouza there is a spectacular view out over the Tigrigra Valley, Azrou and the village of Ain Leuh. The best descent is down the other side of the mountain, through Tizi Tioumliline and on to the track beside the Oued Sebbab that leads you back to Azrou. A word of warning - don't feed the Barbary Apes! I have had one launch itself onto my back and this is not an experience to be recommended.

Friendly local checks the time

Another five hour walk starts from Sefrou. If you want to spend time in the souq there, the market day is Friday. The best route for a trek here takes you from Sefrou to the tiny town of Bhalil some one and a half hours away. Bhalil is an ancient Christian city founded by Roman soldiers who had opted out of the Second Legion - or so the story goes. But more astonishing is the present day reality that just behind the village are a few dozen families living in caves. Yes, modern day troglodytes. The walk continues through some beautiful scenic spots and plenty of wildlife in a slow circle down to the starting point at Sefrou.


FROM MARRAKECH

The pick of the High Atlas trips starts from the Bou Guemmez Valley, heading south-west through Berber villages and astounding scenery to three of the highest peaks in the Atlas - Mgoun (4069m./13346ft), Ouanoukrim (4088m./13408ft) and Jebel Toubkal (4167m./13668ft). Starting point in Morocco for this trip is Marrakech and unless you are a very experienced trekker or climber, I would suggest hiring a local guide. There are now some package tours that also give you a chance to climb Toubkal in winter. This is not a particularly difficult ascent although keeping an eye on the weather is a must and I would suggest throwing in an ice-axe and crampons!

In between the High Atlas and the Sahara, is Jebel Sahro range. This is a fabulous area for climbing and trekking in the winter months. The best way in is via Ouarzazate on the south side of the Atlas. There are dozens of relatively easy walking paths between the Berber villages, however, local knowledge is a must, so again, get advice from a local guide. The highest peak here is Amalou n'Mansour (2712m./8895ft.)

As a base camp for trekking or climbing near Toubkal, we recommend Dar Tassa. You can find out about them via email: info@dartassa.com

Read Liosliath's story here.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news