Showing posts with label jewellery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jewellery. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Artisans Take Sales Into Their Own Hands



It sounds idealistic, but impractical - getting illiterate artisans in remote parts of Morocco to handle sales of their own work. However, an enterprising group of people has made it a reality with the launch of a new website. It's a remarkable story of innovation and perseverance, writes Suzanna Clarke

In August the e-commerce website Anou - Beyond Fair Trade was launched. At first glance, it looks like a modest version of other e-commerce websites, but the photos of artisans' work it contains represent thousands of hours of labour. The man behind the site is Dan Driscoll, whose aim is to make himself redundant. 

"I wanted to build a platform artisans could use," says Dan. "For artisans to gain the full value of their work they have to be responsible for the complete process."

During his time as a Peace Corps worker in Morocco from 2008 to 2010, Dan discovered that artisans received a small portion of the sales of their work, with the rest going to middlemen. If artisans handled the sales, he reasoned, they could receive all the profit.

Founder of Anou, Dan Driscoll

The idea is that artisans can upload photos of their work onto the site, customers all over the world can buy them on line, and they post them out. It sounds simple, but when Dan came up with the concept he was living in a remote village with no road and no water, hours from the nearest town. "However, we did have internet," he explains. "It arrived in 2006 via cell phone towers and has made a huge amount of difference to people's lives."

Since then Dan and a dedicated team have trained artisans, who have themselves become trainers who go out into the field to teach other artisans - many of them illiterate - how to use the technology. "One of our best trainers, Rabha, has a 4th grade education, and a year ago she couldn't use a computer," Dan says.

Rabha Akkaoui is the President of Cooperative Chorouk. "Prior to Anou, we [Cooperative Chorouk] couldn't sell our products because we were very far from any city and if we did sell something, it was usually through a middleman," she says. "We didn't make much money when we did this. Now we have been able to sell work online, where most of our sales now come from and we have been able to increase our prices.

The new scheme has made a huge difference to Rabha's life, and the artisans she deals with. "I have been given the opportunity to travel to many places I have never been and meet many interesting people in order to train new artisans how to use Anou. The experience has taught me how to better sell and make my own products in order to help the women in my village. And I now understand problems many Moroccan artisans face across Morocco and I am happy to be able to fix them."

Now the Anou project has trained around 200 artisans, and new coops are joining the scheme every week.

"The training is free, and it's free to add products," explains Dan. "We are a non-profit organisation - we are in the process of formalising that in Morocco - and charge a 15% commission on products to cover our costs. All of that money is ploughed back into the business. It costs around US $1,500 a month to run, and we have six trainers who get paid for each training they complete. The trainers are always artisans themselves. The more trainers we bring on, the more we develop an established community of artisans who can support each other."

Not everyone is happy about the new scheme however, particularly the middlemen who feel that it has undermined their profit share. But Dan remains optimistic. "If you look at the market of somewhere like Fez, it's huge," he says. "Handicrafts are a big enough field for all of us." And, he reasons, encouraging the next generation of artisans who can see they can make a reasonable living for their families can only be good for the industry as a whole.

Weavers from Associate Tithrite in Ait Hamza

Dan began working with a group of woodcarvers in 2008, as a Peace Corps volunteer. "Before I came out to the village, I did a three month training course in the Amazigh language. And then I arrived here and found I had trained in the wrong dialect."

He was posted to Ait Bouganez, four hours from the town of Ben Mellal in the Atlas Mountains; one of 26 villages totalling a population of 16,000. Having no-one who spoke English around forced Dan to learn the language quickly. He found that the woodcarvers were having to take wood from the forest without permission, and helped them to legalise the arrangement. As deforestation had happened on a wide scale since the 1980s, he introduced the idea of them planting trees to replace those they used. But, as the woodcarvers received such a small return for their work this was unaffordable. So then Dan started to look for a way to improve the amount the artisans were getting.

Red charm bracelet by Mohamed El Asri
"Initially I tried to get them to use the Etsy and eBay sites, but they are really not designed for first time users. They change the layout of their sites frequently, and people would have difficulties using them." Despite this, Dan's belief in the potential of the internet was confirmed as the woodcarver's incomes grew to around 10 times what they had started with from online sales. In fact they were so successful, the group started to fund local infrastructure projects, focusing on waste management. They installed big metal drums to burn trash, which was too expensive to transport, and afterwards would bury the ash.

Dan took a year's break from Morocco, going to Yemen to work on a national newspaper in English there. However, he was deported from the country, as were most journalists, during the Arab Spring.

He returned to Morocco, with a vision of finding ways to create jobs in rural areas, "and trying to find a way for the artisan community to support itself. I am interested in trying to create resilient communities, with community led development." Inspired by his success with the woodcarvers, Dan looked for a way to replicate and improve the model on a larger scale.

"The internet has really changed the way people live," says Dan. "All of a sudden they can sell their products from their mud house...And its becoming even more accessible with the use of affordable smart phones."

Weaver from Cooperative Chorouk with her naturally dyed rug

"Anou is not so much about e-commerce - it's trying to solve the access problem," Dan says. "We want our buyers to create a personal connection with the artisans. Many of our buyers have travelled to Morocco before. In many ways they are better buying the product online, because they know that the artisan actually receives their money.

"Our aim is to create transparency in the market. We can give you a dirham breakdown on who gets what. We verify what people get paid by not only sending a text message to the head of the co-op who dispatches the product, but also one to the artisan so they know what sold and for how much."

It hasn't all been smooth sailing. When artisans encounter technical problems with the website, they are inclined to believe it is their fault and they have somehow broken the site. "I spend a lot of time travelling out to remote villages finding out what happened and reassuring people," he says.

How successful Anou is remains to be seen, but the signs are promising. Dan points out that the website is "not a power grab, but way of reshaping market in way that benefits the artisans."

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Sunday, June 10, 2012

Fès Festival Fringe - In Transit


Moroccan Bling wrist cuff with photo by Jess Stephens

Running parallel to the Sacred Music Festival are many other cultural events that are worth seeking out between concerts. Jess Stephens of Culture Vultures has reprised her successful pop-up shop scheme from last year, but this year is taking it to a whole new level. Vanessa Bonnin reports for The View from Fez.

In Transit is the name of her new temporary venture, and it has morphed into a gallery with an exhibition of works created by artists from all over the globe, as far away as New York and as local as Fes. The diverse range of work comes together under the influence of Morocco, either culturally, aesthetically or in its rich resource of materials.

“It’s developed into a pop-up arts centre that’s trying to make as much cultural noise as possible,” Jess Stephens told The View From Fez. “Which means inviting musicians to come and play, there’ll be artist talks, henna sessions, even a magician. It’s much more than a static gallery or shop.” “The visual arts are a fringe aspect of the festival, but they enhance the programme,” she added.

“Of course the festival organizers focus is the music, so it’s up to the individual artists to push the local, cultural side. This location creates a dialogue with medina people as it’s on the street, rather than standard galleries, which can be a bit elitist and removed from the average person. “

Jess Stephens
On display are works by:Noureddine Daifallah – calligrapher from MarrakechMargaret Lanzanetta – painter from New York, based in Fes
David Packer – sculptor and photographer from England, based in Fes
Nourredine Chater – artist from Marrakech
Jess Stephens – artist from England, based in SefrouPlus the latest jewellery and accessories collection from Jess Stephens' label 'Moroccan Bling'.
“This latest collection is influenced by rag rugs and shihkat dancers from the Middle Atlas Mountains and principally uses cloth and leather,” Stephens explained. “Every piece is hand-made and one-of-a-kind.”

In Transit runs until June 18th and is open from 10am until 8pm. Much of the “cultural noise” will take place between the end of the afternoon concerts at Batha Museum and the beginning of the evening shows at Bab Al Makina.

Jess Stephens shows her wares to Kristal Passy and Francine Demeulenaere
Moroccan Bling necklace with works by Margaret Lanzanetta and Noureddine Daifallah

To find the pop up gallery head down Talla K’bira, past Madrassa Bounaniya, under the tunnel after half a dozen shop units on your left you will find a small space with much inspiration.


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Monday, February 28, 2011

Moroccan jewellery


Visual artist, Jess Stephens, has launched a new blog about Moroccan jewellery.


There are several articles including the facts about Moroccan silver, Tuareg jewellery, Berber adornment including facial tattoos and hairdressing, and the Hand of Fatima.

MOROCCAN BLING


A resident of Sefrou, Jess is also making her own Moroccan contemporary jewellery. She likes to use materials from her immediate surroundings and the current collection is an accumulation of jellaba buttons (common in her home town of Sefrou), metal beads from the south of Morocco, glass beads, wooden pieces, and other random findings from around Morocco. Bringing into play crafts, techniques and materials in her new collection, Jess is fired and inspired to work alongside traditional craft-makers and local women are employed to create some of the pieces. You can see more of the range at www.jessiculture.etsy.com.


Sunday, July 04, 2010

Hand of Fatima - a buyer's guide


THE HAND OF FATIMA IN MOROCCO
In Morocco, you can see the hand of Fatima just about everywhere. It’s a decorative element found as hinges or knockers on the massive cedarwood doors of important houses as well as in jewellery. It’s thought that this open hand, or khamsa (meaning five), is a good luck charm that wards off the ‘evil eye’.


detail of a riad door with a Hand of Fatima hinge on the right

The khamsa became widely used as a decorative element with the spread of Islam, but it had nevertheless been used as a charm even in pre-Islamic times, by the Babylonians, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and the ancient Indians.

The khamsa makes one of the most popular souvenirs of Morocco. It can be worn as a necklace, a pendant, earrings, rings or in a larger composite piece of jewellery. Within the piece, other elements can sometimes be found such as an eye, a dagger, a flower, or even a Star of David.

old khamsat (left and right); the middle one is a copy of an old design

Most khamsat (the plural form in Arabic) are made of silver and are chiselled with designs or set with semi-precious stones, or sometimes enameled.

this khamsa is around 80 years old

WHO WAS FATIMA?
Fatima was the youngest daughter of the Prophet Mohamed. In the Muslim hierarchy in heaven, she is one of the first four women (the others being the Prophet’s wife Khadija, the Virgin Mary and Asiye – Moses’ stepmother). Fatima was married to Ali, her cousin and childhood friend. From their children are descended all the Muslims who claim to be cherif, or direct descendants of the Prophet (King Mohamed VI being one of them).

BUYING A KHAMSA
Every shop and market stall in the Fez medina (and elsewhere in Morocco) seems to have khamsat for sale – in rings, pendants, earrings and doorknockers. Where to start? Well, first of all, the doorknockers are usually made of brass and can be full sculptures of hands, or flat stylised hands. When it comes to jewellery, the choice is between cheap, massed-produced metal or old (and even antique) silver pieces.

In good quality jewellery shops there’s usually a fairly wide range of old or antique pendants as well as copies of old designs. You can tell the difference by the brightness of the silver. Even when polished, an old khamsa will still be duller than a new one. The best come from the Tiznit region of Morocco.

the shiny middle khamsa is new, flanked by two old ones

A new khamsa that’s a copy will cost around Dh400-600, depending on the work involved and the size. An old piece will be more expensive, starting at around Dh600 and reaching about Dh1500 for an antique. Old ones will usually be weighed to determine their price, and the current rate for old Berber silver is Dh50 per gram.

antique khamsa

The View from Fez thanks Abdou Bouzidi-Idrissi for his help in this article. The khamsat featured above can be found at his shop on Tala'a Kebira (ph 0535 636 946).