Moroccan News Briefs #72

Royal Air Maroc plane causes panic in Marrakech

An aircraft of the Royal Air Morocco (RAM) flew at very low altitude over the rural area of Tassoultant in the region of Marrakech, spreading panic among the population.

The plane, which was intending to land normally in Marrakech-Menara Airport, was warned at the last minute by the control tower that another aircraft was preparing to land at the same time.

The pilot was therefore forced to leave the airport at low altitude, causing a deafening roar and terrorizing the population douar Al Hana.

The aircraft that came from a European country, had stopped in Casablanca, before heading to Marrakech.

Youth unemployment crisis in Morocco

The World Bank on Friday described the problem of youth unemployment in Morocco as "very serious," with similarities to other countries in the region where youth-led protests brought about regime change.

"It is a very serious problem," Inger Andersen, the bank's vice president for the Middle East and North Africa, told AFP, speaking in Rabat at the end of a two-day visit to Morocco.

The World Bank published a report in June that said around 30 percent of Moroccans aged between 15 and 29 - who account for 44 percent of the working age population - were unemployed.

But Andersen cautioned that such statistics did not reflect a key aspect of the problem, namely that many of those out of work had "given up" on the labour market. "They are not active job seekers."

She said the bank had yet to carry out similarly detailed studies on the unemployment situation elsewhere in the MENA region, but said provisional research also indicated "very high" levels of youth unemployment.

"I think we are finding a lot of similarities among the Arab Spring countries," she said.

"And in fact it was indeed the youth that spoke out for change," she added.

Morocco has mostly been spared the unrest that swept North Africa last year, toppling the leaders of Tunisia, Egypt and Libya.

But there are sporadic protests and social discontent persists, particularly among Morocco's youth population, driven partly by the lack of job opportunities.

Andersen said Morocco's economic growth was likely to slow from 4.9 percent last year to around 3 percent in 2012, due to its heavy reliance on trade with the eurozone, and warned of the challenges that rising food prices were likely to cause the government.

Morocco's budget deficit hit a record 6.1 percent of GDP last year, caused by rising international commodity prices and the growing subsidies bill, notably on food, and some fear that it could rise further.

Although the country is an agricultural producer, the cost of food remains relatively high in 2012, caused by a harsh drought that has badly affected agricultural output and a 20 percent rise in petrol prices.

Finance Minister Nizar Baraka, quoted by the official MAP news agency, said on Wednesday that the government hoped to bring the budget deficit down to just 5 percent this year, mainly thanks to an improved fiscal situation.


AfDB gives Morocco 105m euro loan for agricultural sector

The African Development Bank (AfDB) Friday announced a loan of 105 million euro to Morocco for funding the support plan of the country's large-scale agriculture programme, known as Maroc Vert (Green Morocco).

The programme aims to improve agricultural production and the living conditions of the rural dwellers, and to preserve the depleting water resources.

The loan agreement was signed by Economy and Finance Minister Nizar Baraka and AfDB representative in Morocco Amani Abou Zeid.


Morocco takes possession of a new SIGMA class frigate

A couple of days ago the SIGMA Class Frigate, Allal Ben Abdellah, built by Damen Schelde Naval Shipbuilding (DSNS) in Vlissingen, was transferred to the Royal Moroccan Navy.

The delivery of the last ship of a series of three marks the culmination of a period of dedicated and successful partnership with the Royal Moroccan Navy. All three ships were delivered in time, on schedule, meeting all the requirements as stated in the contract to the full satisfaction of the customer.

The delivery of the last of three frigates was achieved within four and a half years from the effective date of contract, after a period of thorough engineering and three years of construction.

The first Tarik Ben Zayid was commissioned on 10 September 2011, the second Sultan Moulay Ismail was commissioned on 10 March 2012.

After commissioning, the crew will continue with another three weeks of Sail Safety Training in Den Helder and North Sea. This training will be conducted by training teams of the Royal Netherlands Navy.

At the end of September, after conclusion of this training period, the Allal Ben Abdellah will start her maiden voyage to Morocco.

The three SIGMA-class frigates for the Royal Moroccan Navy have been designed according to Schelde Naval Shipbuilding’s revolutionary SIGMA-approach and are a further development of the SIGMA-corvettes for the Indonesian Navy. The SIGMA approach applies modularity in many areas.

The Royal Moroccan Navy SIGMA Class frigates are equipped to conduct the traditional naval tasks as well as maritime security operations. The vessels are also suited to support humanitarian aid operations.


'Death for Sale' to represent Morocco at Oscars

Faouzi Bensaidi's neo-noir heist movie "Death for Sale" is Morocco's entry for the foreign-language Academy Award.  The pic is a classic example of the new crop of Moroccan genre films by young directors that reveal a hitherto unknown underbelly of Morocco's cities.

The story follows three petty criminals enmeshed in the world of pick-pocketing, drugs and prostitution in the Atlantic port of Tetouan, in northern Morocco, who plan to rob a jewelry store.

A co-production between Morocco (Agora Film), France (Liaison Cinematographique) and Belgium (Entre Chien et Loup), pic was lensed by Belgian cinematographer Marc-Andre Batigne, with soundscape by New York musician Richard Horowitz.

The $1.9 million budget included production support from Cannes' Cinefondation and Abu Dhabi's Sanad fund.

"Death" world preemed at the 2011 Toronto Film Festival, was the closing film at Marrakech and has garnered festival kudos at Berlin, Milan, Brussels and Tangiers.


Morocco in danger of missing out on African Cup

Morocco risk missing out on the upcoming African Cup of Nations after losing 2-0 to hosts Mozambique in the first leg of the qualifiers' final round on Sunday in Maputo.Almiro Lobo gave Mozambique the lead in the 75th minute and Elias Pelembe wrapped up the victory in stoppage time.

Morocco will face an uphill climb when they meet Mozambique in Rabat in next month's second leg. They will need to win by a three goal margin to reach next year's Nations Cup finals in South Africa.

Earlier in the day, Zimbabwe beat Angola 3-1 in Harare. The second legs will be played 12-14 October.

NOTE:  If all of that sounds pretty dry, then take heart from the editorial below. It comes from  Al Mountakhab (our apologies for the Google Translation, but we left it as it is for its charm!)

Moroccan coach Eric Gerets

Again, the hearts of Moroccans were broken after the show that was offered by their national football team that Sunday afternoon in Maputo, was made bitten by Mambas (Snakes) of Mozambique inflicting a severe defeat. Broken hearts, yes, because it was given to us to see yesterday, humiliation, damage to the image of Morocco and the great footballing heritage ... The makers, national football should no longer remain seated with their hands crossed, watching this charade without doing anything ... They at least try to limit the damage, trying to save what can still be in terms of image, so that the country's reputation in football does not descend even lower than it already is ... We do not believe that we, the Federation and the Ministry should wait more, in the hope that things get better, the anxiety dissipates and that bad luck strikes us disappear, finally ... Mr. Gerets shot all his cards, all shot cartridges (wet), all tested patterns and the solutions that have come to mind, but has managed to we prove, without a shadow of a doubt, that he can no longer be used for something useful.


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The Festival de Jazz de Tangier - TanJazz 2012

If jazz is your thing then make a note of the dates of the 13th edition of the TanJazz Festival in Tangier. The festival runs from Wednesday September 19 to Sunday 23rd.

The main venue is the Italian Palace. Performers include Bebey Prince Bissongo, Mario Rom's Interzone,  Sergio Monroy Trio, the Puissance Jazz Bigband, Gnawa Express and La Velle and Friends, just to name a few. There will also be jam sessions and even a session of kids' jazz.

Sous le Haut Patronage de Sa Majesté le Roi Mohammed VI

You can find out more information and the full programme by visiting TANJAZZ

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Nass El Ghiwane ~ Enduring Moroccan Music

For decades now, Nass El Ghiwane have fascinated audiences with their individual stylistic blend of Gnawa trance music and social protest songs. Their popularity is such that they've been dubbed the "Moroccan Beatles". In the edited extract, Andreas Kirchgäßner profiles the group.

Troubadours of the Old and New Morocco

The stadium in Agadir is rocking. Long-haired youths tear off their T-shirts, waving them to the music like flags. People dance in a crush, pushing against the lines of soldiers and policemen trying to force them back. A girl slips bravely through the cordon, jumps between the musicians. She dances with them for a moment before the marshals pull her off the stage. But after the final chord, there's no holding them back. The youngsters storm the barriers, grab instruments, fly at the musicians. The plump Moroccan girl is back, and stands in front of Larbi Batma as he's leaving the stage, tying her scarf around his neck…

Those impressions are from the wild 1970s. And indeed, with their Beatles-style haircuts and flared trousers the Moroccan musicians looked just like contemporary rock stars. But listen closely and something doesn't seem quite right: there's no howling electric guitar, no huge drum set. The instrumentation was sparse, some pieces were only sung and accompanied by rhythmic clapping.

Religious and inflammatory

Then the musicians again brought out traditional instruments: the harraz, the cup-shaped drums of itinerant musicians and beggars, the tbila drum of the Sufi brotherhoods, covered on both sides, the framed drums of the Jilala and Aissawa and the gembri, the percussive bass of the Gnawa musicians.

They did indeed use these instruments to play the music of the traditional Sufi brotherhoods, the Jilala, the Hmadcha, but above all the trance music of the Gnawa. But they had composed new lyrics, partially in the style of religious Sufi poetry, but always infused with courageous directness and social brisance.

In the educated Morocco of the 1960s and 70s, which had its cultural centre in Fez, this music was regarded as primitive and backward. After all, it was often used to conjure up spirits in healing ceremonies developed by popular Islam.

Instead, Moroccan radios broadcast overblown emotional music or the noble tones of zither and violin. It was already a sensation in itself that four musicians played their own songs and lyrics on traditional instruments – an approach that soon packed the biggest venues and stadiums in Morocco.

In June 1971, they were the warm-up act before a performance by the Radio Orchestra at the National Theatre in Rabat. But the audience didn't allow the orchestra – with its classical Arab and western orientated repertoire – onto the stage, celebrating instead the music of Nass El Ghiwane. They were henceforth hailed in the Moroccan media as "the Moroccan Beatles".

The "Ghiwane" musicians that gave the group its name were the troubadours of old Morocco, members of traditional Sufi brotherhoods who used music to convey the latest news, religious messages and entertainment to the people.

Not long after independence, in the midst of the worst economic crises and harshest political repression, the group mixed popular Sufi music with their own texts. Nass El Ghiwane was the first-ever Moroccan group to denounce the misery of the young and disenfranchised, despotism and omnipresent corruption:

"Oh, what a miracle! Our summer has become winter … The rulers' tyranny becomes all the more oppressive, their despotism more brutal." (Excerpt from Nass El Ghiwane: "Subhan allah")

This is only a short extract - the full article can be found here

Andreas Kirchgäßner  © Qantara.de 2012

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Tantalising Tangier

Glenys Roberts, writing for the Mail Online has a fine piece about Tangier. Here is an edited extract and a link to the full article.

Tangier - photo: Sandy McCutcheon

Bohemian rhapsody: Falling (again) for Tangier, Morocco's exuberant swirl of a city

Welcome to expat heaven Tangier, Morocco, where the British still cling to an elegant social round, for the most part long gone in the mother country.  With their own church, their favourite hotel, the Minzah, built by the immensely rich Marquis of Bute in the Thirties; their own riding school; and their own cemetery (and pet cemetery), it is one of world traveller Michael Palin's favourite destinations as described in his book Sahara. Palin tells of the typically bizarre churchyard scene when Birdie, an elderly white pet cockerel, took a bite out of a retired widow called Lady Baird.

Quite why I fell in love with Tangier and its eccentric ways, I can't remember. I have been visiting it since the Sixties and seen it change from a scruffy town to a modern city with French restaurants, beach bars and a summer influx of some of Europe's richest people.

Mick Jagger, who has kept a flame alive for it almost as long as I have, paid a flying visit this year to see his favourite jeweller Majid, and I met Sixties rock chick Pattie Boyd, still looking a million dollars stretched out under a coconut hair parasol.

Tangier has some fabulous restaurants - photo Sandy McCutcheon

I first visited the white city, as it is known because of its dazzling buildings and fabulous light, on a day trip from Gibraltar on the shuttle plane run in those days by Gibair. When the plane was grounded by sea mist, the company put us up in the Minzah Hotel. With its entrance in the middle of the town and view over the bay, it is surely one of the best-placed hotels in the world.

The view from El Minzah is stunning

It is hard to think of a better positioned town either. On a headland where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean and overlooking Cape Trafalgar, where Nelson lost his life, it is a must for history buffs. The town has had Western visitors ever since the 17th- century diarist Samuel Pepys was sent there to wind up the British garrison in 1683.

Gore Vidal came to Tangier for the boys, Errol Flynn for the girls. Matisse and Degas came to paint and couturier Yves Saint Laurent to gain inspiration for his collections. Tennessee Williams came to write and so did Jack Kerouac and William Burroughs. Winston Churchill and Aristotle Onassis both visited and the legendary American writer Paul Bowles moved in.

Paul Bowles in Tangier ~ photo by Jearld F Moldenhauer, courtesy Dar Balmira Gallery, Gzira Fes Medina

Today, the King of Morocco, Mohammed VI, is determined to make it a showcase city. He has built a corniche at the base of the kasbah and a marina that he hopes will make it into another Monaco. There is so much confidence in the air that the Spanish come to look for work in construction. And there are so many French intellectuals - French is still the lingua franca - at times it is possible to imagine oneself on the Left Bank in Paris.

Old Tangier hands like myself hope our favourite town will not end up a concrete jungle as parts of Europe have done, but whatever happens it is difficult to imagine it being altogether changed. It is built on so many hills that there will always be those tempting glimpses through the buildings to the sea. When I first visited, many of the women were veiled. Now the French sunbathe topless and the carpet sellers speak perfect English. You can gamble in the casinos, you can drink in the restaurants and quad-bike and surf on the beaches.

In Tangier people still know how to enjoy the moment. They love to sit around in cafes watching the world go by and not worrying what the next day will bring. It is such a cultural shift it makes for a very relaxing holiday. Most of all there is the impression, because of Tangier's history, of living in several centuries and several countries all at the same time.


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Important Info About The Fez Fire Department

It has come to our attention that there is a problem with the emergency number for the fire department here in Fez.

DO NOT RING 15

According to a source in the department it is pointless ringing the emergency number (15) as THEY DO NOT ANSWER IT. The reason given is that they have too many hoax calls from children.

In a fire emergency please ring 0535701815 0r 0535701813

Make a note of this number and make sure your friends also have it.

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The Perfect Weekend Break in Morocco

Asilah is one of those beautiful places in Morocco that often gets overlooked by visitors. However, a new website (AsilahInfo.com) has been set up to promote the town and hopefully lure a lot more people to a place that has everything for a perfect weekend. This is what they have to say...

Need an escape? Why not spend the weekend in Asilah, a quite seaside town located on the beautiful Atlantic coast just 40 minutes south of Tangier? Whether you fancy getting lost in the meandering streets of the medina, escaping to the beach or trying a delicious fish tagine, Asilah has something for everyone.

A great way to start your stay in Asilah is with a visit to the hammam. A vigorous scrub and massage will help you relax in to the town’s laidback atmosphere. Then head to the medina to discover its thriving arts scene.

Ever since the first The Cultural Moussem of Asilah in 1978, artists have been invited to paint murals on the white-washed houses of the medina. These brightly coloured works of art help to distinguish Asilah from the other Andalucian style towns in Morocco, such as Chefchaouen and Essaouria. As well as seeing the works of visiting artists, you can visit the small galleries of Moroccan and European artists who have made Asilah their home.

The medina is protected from the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean by ramparts which form part of the wall built by the Portuguese in the 17th Century. In the evening walk out onto the Krikia, a stone pier on the south side of the medina, to enjoy a dazzling sunset over the horizon.

There are a handful of quality guesthouses in Asilah, all located in or close to the medina. One of the most established is Patio de la Luna; situated in front of the medina wall, it offers a comfortable stay in its rustic-chic rooms. Alternatively, you can rent a house in the medina. In recent years many of the old, dilapidated medina homes have been beautifully restored and are now available for holiday rental.

If you choose a self-catering holiday, visit the harbour in the evening to get your hands on the fresh catch of the day. There is usually wide range of fish and seafood to choose from including crab, sword fish and sole. Otherwise dine at one of the great fish restaurants located on the promenade, such as Le Place or El Espigon. Ask for the waiter’s recommendation and enjoy it with a chilled glass of Moroccan wine.

Rmilate Beach (also known as Paradise Beach) 7 km south of Asilah

During the day, most visitors escape to one of the area’s stunning beaches. The most well-known beach is Rmilate (Paradise Beach). Located 7km to the south of Asilah, the most recommended way to travel there is by horse and cart (150 Dh return). This rustic form of transport will allow you to take in the surrounding countryside (TIP: to avoid a sore bum, take a cushion!) The beach is in a long and sandy bay, lined with chiringuitos which serve grilled sardines, calamari and fish tagines.

Asilah train station is located 2 km from the town center. Trains travel to all major cities, including Tangier (40 mins), Meknes (3 hrs), Rabat (3.5 hrs), Fez (4 hrs), Casablanca (4.5 hrs) and Marrakesh (9 hrs) – night sleeper train available.

More information about restaurants, accommodation, activities and events can be found at AsilahInfo.com. Read the reviews of past visitors and leave your own comments to help others enjoy a weekend in Asilah.

Text and photos: Carin Cowell

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