Monday, October 09, 2006

High climbing visitor to Fez

Inge & Hilde - photo Suzanna Clarke


Norwegian Inge Sollerud is an SAS airline pilot, a great traveler and mountaineer. His climbing has taken him across the globe to places as far apart as Australia, Bolivia, Norway, France and Spain. He has been visiting Fez with his partner Hilde Skjaerstad who hails from Bergen. Here he talks to The View from Fez.

View from Fez: When did you first come to Morocco?

Inge: In 2002. It was an accident really, I didn't have time to get a visa for Libya! I had also wanted to go Ethiopia - but the transport in the country is so poor I could not have seen much in the limited time I had, so about 12 hours before I flew I picked Morocco. I really like traveling in Moslem countries - the people are friendly, the architecture is fascinating and the food is great. Also, because Morocco is so well set up for tourists and transport, I knew I could see a lot in the short time I had available.

View from Fez: And your initial impressions?

Inge: I liked it a lot. There was a bit of a hassle with hustlers in the tourist areas, but then, you expect that. Casablanca was disappointing because it was simply like any other large city. But once I got to Marrakech and then the High Atlas I really enjoyed it. Marrakech felt like I was finally seeing Morocco - away from the tourist areas it was wonderful. The fact that locals mix so freely with tourists in the evenings in the main square was remarkable.

View from Fez. And the High Atlas?

Inge:I was surprised by the number of French climbers - but I am a person who likes mountains. The view from the top of the Moroccan mountains was sensational.
Jebel Toubkal - Morocco's highest peak

I climbed Jebel Toubkal - the highest mountain in North Africa at 4165 metres - there is a metal structure on top, so I climbed that as well. Actually the climb up the mountain was really only a hike and I did it in soft hiking boots. I came across the remains of an old DC3 American spy plane that crashed into the mountain in the 1950s - as a pilot I found it fascinating to be standing where the plane had flown straight into the mountain. In the Todra Gorge there is a lot of good rock climbing but I didn't have time to do it on that trip. You could certainly visit for a good couple of week's climbing.

As to the rest of the country, on that first trip I was impressed with the kasbah in Rabat - it took me by surprise and had a strangely Greek feeling to it. I also loved the trip into the desert and the dunes even though it was a very touristy thing to do.

View from Fez: When did you first come to Fez?

Inge: At the end of the first trip I came for only three days including a side trip to Volubulis. Fez struck me as chaotic and the hustlers were too ready to show you where to go. These days it is much better and hardly happens at all. The crack down by the tourist police has been very effective, thankfully.

There are so many fabulous things to see in Fez and you can so easily walk past something without knowing it's there. You do need someone with local knowledge, or a lot of time to explore. I think that visitors should get off the main streets and get lost! This is my second trip to the Medina and I love getting lost and having to find my way out. Those narrow alleys with so many people... and the hidden little squares that you discover are simply wonderful

View from Fez: Will you come back for a third trip?

Inge: Yes - As long as I have friends here. There are so many places in the world to see - but Fez is a must.


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