Major Upgrade for the Moulay Yacoub Spa

Following agreements signed in Fez, Vichy International will provide outsourced management of the Moulay Yacoub spa from January 2018 for a period of 10 years. The investment of some 261 million dirhams will upgrade the spa to international standards and hopefully boost tourism in the area

It was time for an upgrade

The Moulay Yacoub spa, just 21 km northwest of  Fez, has been known for hundreds of years for the healing properties of its thermal waters. The origin of the spa's name is unclear. One version is that the village was named either after Sultan Moulay Yacoub Ben Mansour who was cured after his first bath.  Another version claims the name to be a corruption of Aquae Juba, the spring of a local Berber king, Juba, who was envious of Roman hot baths. Either way, the hillside village’s fame is founded on its sulphur-rich spa waters, which are pumped from some 1500m below ground and reach temperatures of around 54˚C.

The spa is visited most often by people with rheumatism and respiratory problems, or those simply wanting to indulge in relaxation. However, over the years the spa has been showing its age and it is hoped that the improvements will give it a new lease of life.

A model of the proposed hotel

Amongst the additions and improvements will be the new Vichy Thermalia Spa Hotel, being built with an investment of 169 million dirhams. Works started in March and will hopefully be completed by December 2017. The upgrade of the spa should also be completed at the same time.

With an area of 14,000 m2,  the new four star hotel will have 93 rooms and 7 suites, all supplied with thermal water. The hotel will also include three restaurants, a children's club, a fitness room, an outdoor pool and gift shops for Vichy and L'Oreal products.

One of the new pools

During the construction of the new building for the thermal baths and renovation of the traditional Hammam and thermal pools, parts of the spa will be closed until the end of 2017. Other areas will remain open to allow visitors access to the thermal pools. The new areas will include treatment baths with Jacuzzi, 1 care bath with underwater massage, 2 swimming pools with a diameter of 15 m each, 1 pool for men, 1 pool for women, a premium pool of 75 m2, and 2 steam rooms, one for women and one for men.

A subsidiary of Compagnie de Vichy (founded in 1853) has signed a management contract for the Hotel Vichy Thermalia Spa and resort of Moulay Yacoub, with the leaders of the Cothermy (Thermo-Medical Company of My Yacoub), a subsidiary of CDG Development.

Jerome Phelipeau and Karim Jennane

The agreement was initialed in Fez by Mohammed Karim Jennane, director general manager Cothermy, as hotel owner and modern baths and Jerome Phelipeau, CEO of Vichy Spa International.

With the power of Vichy International behind the venture it is expected that the enterprise will be heavily marketed in Europe as an international spa destination.

What is unclear is how much it will cost locals who have traditionally been the main clients of the spa. At present they pay around 55 dirhams to bathe at the spa.


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The Hammams of Fez - Free Lecture

ALIF Lecture Series Presents The Hammams of Fez Their History and Architecture A lecture by Kamal Raftani 

Morocco is one of the countries with the greatest number of traditional living hammams. Despite this fact, this key civic building type remains poorly studied by researchers and professionals.

This lecture presents the Moroccan hammam and sheds some light on the formation and evolution of this traditional urban space. It focuses on the hammams of the world heritage city of Fez and presents an analysis of the architecture of this building type and its relationship with its urban environment. It investigates the historic context of the hammam, its origin, and the different influences that have contributed in shaping its architectural identity. It also assesses its current state and discusses its elements of sustainability.

Wednesday, July 13th at 6:15 PM ALIF Annex - Open to the public


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Lecture: The Hammam in Moroccan Culture

Naima Lahbil, celebrates the survival of the hammam

The hammam has a vital place in everyday Moroccan culture and experience. Join Naima Lahbil, Moroccan Professor of Economics and current consultant with ADER Fez on the HAMMAMED project, who will discuss its importance on Thursday at 6.20 pm 

Professor Lahbil has long been a champion of the cultural and historic heritage of Fez Medina and worked with UNESCO and the World Bank on many projects.

The HAMMAMED project is working to restore and maintain the architectural and historic integrity of some of the most significant hammams in the medina.

This public lecture will give those who attend an insight into the Moroccan hammam experience, as well as an opportunity to learn more about the direction and goals of the historic restoration projects in Fez.

When: Thursday September 18 at 6.20 pm
Where: ALC-ALIF Annex Auditorium
22 Rue Mohamed Diouri
Ville Nouvelle, Fez

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Japanese Tourists Respond to Documentary On Morocco

A documentary film featuring Morocco, shot in December has been shown on Tokyo TV and BS Japan - and now a second one is being filmed. The huge audience and exposure which will certainly impact on the number of Japanese tourists visiting the kingdom.

The response was so great to the first documentary that a second round of filming has now taken place again with the assistance of Production Coordinator, Momoko Nishiyama. This time the focus will be on women in Morocco. It will be part of a full three hour Moroccan feature.

One of the things of greatest interest to viewers of the first film was the sequence shot at Riad Rcif in Fez of a traditional hammam and massage. So a new film crew this week enlisted two Moroccan women to take part. Rachida and Salma spent a long and demanding afternoon squeezed into the hammam and massage room along with the entire film crew and equipment.

Production Coordinator, Momoko Nishiyama

Rachida and Salma

The film crew setting up in the hammam

Salma awaiting the moment to begin the massage

The filming of an argan oil massage

The biggest problem experienced during the five hour shoot was the cold. The heating of the hammam would have caused problems for the cameras and so it was decided to go ahead without the usual warmth. The cold marble and tiles caused some problems especially for Rachida who needed breaks with hot towels to stop shivering.

See our report on the first film shoot here.

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Sneak Preview of New Hammam in the Fez Medina

Today The View from Fez team was given a look inside the new hammam and spa being built just behind Thami's Restaurant in Batha

The view of the dome as work continues

Downstairs is a large hammam while the space upstairs is given over to spa treatments including several rooms for massage, pedicure, hair styling and private bathing.

The work is at full speed at the moment as the owners hope to have everything completed in time for an opening before Christmas.

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Visiting a Moroccan Hammam - A Beginners' Guide

What should I expect when I visit a Moroccan hammam?

A visit to a Moroccan hammam (bathhouse) is a wonderful experience and one of the best ways to meet up with Moroccans. So if you are a visitor to Morocco, don't miss out on a cleansing and cultural experience. Hammam etiquette is not an absolute, but here is a general guide to getting the most from the traditional way of Moroccan bathing.

Where to find a hammam

You will find public hammams in almost every town in Morocco, and in every neighborhood in the cities. Your hotel reception desk will know where to find a local hammam. Taxi drivers, waiters and people in the street will also be happy to give you directions.

The larger hammams have separate bathing rooms (and entrances) for men and women, some exclusively serve either gender. A third category have days of the week for men, and other days for women, or certain hours for men and others for women. You will not find "mixed" public hammams anywhere in Morocco.

A public hammam in the Fez Medina

Quite a few upmarket hotels and riads offer private hammams to their guests. Some also allow non-guests to use their baths. While these private hammams are usually more elaborate and luxurious, they also tend to be much more expensive than public bathhouses.

Some hotels and riads allow people from both genders to bathe together. Ask about their policy before you book.

What to bring to a hammam

Moroccans take the following toiletries to the bathhouse:

• soap,
• shampoo,
• scrub glove,
• towel,
• small, jug-style plastic bucket to pour water over your body,
• swimsuit or extra underwear
• shaving cream and razor.

Hammams usually sell travel-size bottles of shampoo and soap. When available, buy "sabon beldi," a unique black olive oil soap. You will find this easily in the souks.  Also ask if they sell "ghasoul" or "rhassoul", a lava clay that is used to scrub the skin. The rhassoul or ghassoul is a natural mineral clay mined in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco since the eighth century. It is combined with water to clean the body and has been used by Moroccan women for centuries to care for their skin and hair. Rhassoul contains silicon, iron, magnesium, potassium, sodium, lithium, and trace elements.

sabon beldi

rhassoul

Kiis (scrub glove):  Part of the bath ritual is getting scrubbed down by the hammam attendant or by a friend – all depends on whether you have a friend who will scrub your back for you (everyone scrubs each other in the bathhouse – another cultural thing that would normally be out of place in Western culture). A "kiis" (not "kiss") costs about 10 to 15 dirham /1.00 to 1.50€ for a really good one in the souks  Scrub gloves and the small plastic buckets are available at souks (markets) and épiceries (drugstores). They both cost no more than around 10 dirham. Sabon beldi and rhassoul are also widely available in shops.

You can also rent towels for a few dirham at the front desk.

Hammam layout

When you enter a hammam, you pay the man at the front desk the entry fee and continue to the changing room. Here, you change into a swim suit or a piece of underwear. You leave your clothes on shelves in the room.

There is usually no locker-type storage available, but staff will keep an eye on your belongings. It's very rare for clothing or shoes to be stolen from a hammam, but you should not bring valuable items to a bathhouse.

The changing room often doubles as a place for people to rest after their bath. A lot of hammams serve coffee or tea in this room. So while changing, you will be surrounded by other guests. Be careful to wrap a towel around your waist as you change - full-frontal nudity is offensive.

Beyond the changing room are three areas separated by walls and connected by small openings in these walls. The first room is cool, the second room is warm and the third room is steaming hot.

The hammam ritual

After changing, the usual path through a hammam is:

• (1) Warm room
  Here, you get your body accustomed to the heat in the hammam and fill two of the many available large buckets, one with cold water and one with warm water.
  
  You use some of the water to clean the floor of the space you'll be sitting on. Then you wash a first time, but just superficially, to get rid of the basic dirt on your skin and in your hair.
• (2) Hot room
  The heat in the hot room allows your pores to open wide and let your sweat out. This brings all the dirt out that's hidden in your pores and does wonders for your skin.
  
  How much time you spend in this room, depends on your tolerance for heat. You can use the water in your buckets to refresh from time to time, although most Moroccans leave their buckets in the warm room.
  
• (3) Warm room
  You return to the warm room for a more thorough washing. This is when you soap in completely, using the water from one bucket in the process. A fellow bather may offer to wash your back for you. This is a courtesy, don't misinterpret it for anything else.
  
  After you wash your skin and hair, you use the water from the second bucket to rinse the soap and dirt off your body.
  
  When your bath is done, you carefully empty the remaining water from your buckets along the walls of the warm room.
  
• (4) Cold room
  After your bath, you step into the cold room. Many hammams have communal showers in this room, so you can rinse the last remaining dirt and sweat off your body. There are also benches in this room where you can relax for a while and let your body get used to normal temperatures again.
• 
  

Getting a massage

Many hammams, but by far not all, have staff who can massage you. The more upscale (often private) hammams use scented oils for this. Here, you can also choose to be washed by staff. Such a "gommage" often involves rich olive oil soap and is a real treat.

Visitor, Michael Palin, having a massage in Fez

In the more basic, public hammams, a fellow bather may offer to massage you. There's nothing suspicious about such an offer. It's a very kind gesture, usually without financial motives, although returning the favor is somewhat expected.

People with a bad back or other ailments would be wise to abstain from a massage. Even at the hand of a professional, a massage can be quite painful, although afterwards you'll feel as new.

Getting a massage is always an option, never compulsory.

Hammam etiquette

There are a couple of things that you can do to upset Moroccans in a hammam. Wasting water is one of them. Water is scarce in Morocco and splashing it around in large quantities is considered imprudent and rude. Only use as much water as you need to wash and rinse.

Even more seriously offensive is stripping completely naked in a hammam. There are no exceptions in men's bathhouses, but in some women's hammams people have reported Moroccan women going complete naked. Still, women tourists should only bare all when they see Moroccans doing it. As a general rule keep panties on! (take a spare dry pair to change into afterwards).

Although hammams are basically for hygiene, they also have an important social function. This is especially true for more "traditional" women, who rarely leave their house except for a visit to the hammam. People like to chat in hammams, discussing the latest news and gossip.

As a tourist, you may be quite an event in a public hammam. You will receive a lot of attention. Enjoy your special status - a hammam is a great place to get to know Moroccans. Don't be surprised if you're invited over for drinks or dinner.

How much a hammam costs

A bath in a public hammam usually costs around 6 or 15 dirham. Towels, soap and other toiletries are available for a couple of dirhams.

If you take a massage from one of the staff in a public hammam, you are expected to tip him 10 or 15 dirham .

As you leave the bathhouse, it's custom to tip the front desk attendant one or two dirham.

Hammams in hotels and riads ask up to 300 to 500 dirham for a hammam experience. Expect to pay another few hundred dirham extra for a massage.

Luxury Hammam or Spa

If you are hesitant to dive into the world of a traditional hammam, then investigate the more expensive hotel/resort spas.

Part of the Nausikaa hammam

In Fez there are a number of high-end hammam and spa opportunities.

The Nausikaa Wellness Centre (See our report here). can be found on Avenue Bahnini – Route Ain Smen, in Fes. There is a separate hammam for men, a hair and make up salon, many different kinds of hydro-, seaweed and other therapies provided by staff trained in France, as well as a fully equipped modern gym with personal trainers.
Tel: (+212)035 61 00 06
(+212)035 61 00 16
e-mail: info@nausikaa-spa.com
website : http://nausikaaspa.com/

Riad Laaroussa - Spa Laaroussa (see our story here) is a private authentic hammam with traditional massage in the heart of the medina of Fez. Reservations are available on the hour. Open from 12pm to 8pm.
Email: contact@riad-laaroussa.com  Tel: +212 (0) 6 74 18 76 39 Website: http://www.spalaaroussafez.com/

The hammam at Riad Laaroussa

Palais Amani - Another luxury plus hammam with some interesting products including a hand and foot bath with sea salt crystals. Pumice stone foot scrub, Black soap with argan oil and wild mint and body clay mask and wrap.
12 Derb el Miter  Email: contact@palaisamani.com  Telephone:  +212 535 63 32 09
Website: http://www.palaisamani.com/wellbeing/hammam-rituals-at-les-bains-amani.htm

Marrakech

In Marrakech there are dozens of very fine spas and hammams.  A good example is the Riad Zamzam Spa which as well as hammam offers acupuncture, hot stone therapy and reflexology. All spa products are sourced or made locally. Most are organic, made using ancient recipes handed down by elders.
Telephone: +212 661 215 062 Email: zamzamriad@gmail.com
Website: http://www.riadzamzam.com/spa/

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Understanding Hammam Heritage

Hammam al Hussaynia - Cairo 2008 (Photo: Dr. Magda Sibley)

A lecture this Wednesday at 5 PM at the American Language Center will explore the architectural and cultural significance of the hammam

Hammams, or bath-houses are an important part of Moroccan culture; in common with other countries such as Turkey and those in the Middle East. They are not only a place where people can relax and socialise while getting clean, but also have architectural significance.

On Wednesday Dr Magda Sibley, from the Manchester Architecture Research Centre at The University Of Manchester, will deliver a lecture, Learning from the past, innovating for the future: Lessons of Sustainability from Courtyard Housing & Public Baths in North African and Middle Eastern Heritage Cities.

Dr Sibley has been researching hammams and courtyard housing in the heritage cities of North Africa and the Middle East from 2007 and 2012, and has written books and lectured widely about them. Her research examines how these two types of buildings, inherited from Roman times, have contributed to cultural, social and environmental urban sustainability and how they can be of benefit in the future.

She teaches architecture and urbanism and her approach aims to increase students' awareness of buildings as part of urban landscapes and contexts rather than single sculptural objects.

When: Wednesday March 27 at 5 PM
Where: American Language Center, Room 1, 2 Rue Ahmed Hiba

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Traditional Hammam or Luxury Spa?

Recent articles in some Moroccan journals have highlighted the changing nature of the Moroccan bathhouse, the hammam. While the traditional hammam is still available, many tourists opt for the "spa". However, some "spa and hammam" establishments are pushing the boundaries of acceptable behaviour.

A genuine non-mixed hammam experience is traditional

The legitimate "wellness" industry has promoted spa treatments as a health and relaxation where various treatments are available including massage. Of course massage is available in a traditional hammam, yet there is a vast difference between some of the spas and a hammam. Most markedly the issue of gender separation. Traditional hammams have specific times for women and times for men. A large number of the newer spas allow mixed bathing and it is this aspect that has been raised as a problem by some commentators.

The magazine Metropolis (Le Magazine chic at urbain) comments, not totally approvingly, that there has been a growth of mixed hammams. "These new style of institutions will revolutionize the habits of Moroccans have appeared recently in several cities across the country but especially in Marrakech".

The magazine points out that behind the signs "Hammam & Spa", these baths nothing in common with traditional hammams. 'The new wellness temples are hiding places of encounters between men and women who operate as prostitutes who come to sell their charms.' without being worried in the least. The magazine claims that the vice squad avoids intervention for fear of scaring away tourists who contribute much to the economy of the entire region.

Entry prices are expensive while extras can reach heights depending on the services provided by the girls who work in what has become the favorite places for sex tourists from the Gulf States

Receipts of these establishments are so substantial that many hotels and riads have succumbed to the merits of this approach to develop their own mixed spas and hammams so their customers can avoid venturing into unknown places ~ Metropolis. 

A genuine traditional hammam in the Fez Medina

Fortunately there are still many traditional hammams and a large number of "spa and hammam" establishments which are purely and simply about having an enjoyable non-sexual experience.

For all you need to know about a traditional hammam experience click here

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Saving the Ancient Hammams of Fez

The roof of the ancient Seffarine hammam

The traditional hammams in Fez are in a difficult struggle to survive. The costs of repairs and restoration has grown to the point where many are closing, or likely to do so in the near future. The Hammamed Project is an initiative that hopes to turn that around. Guided tours and training seminars to rediscover and rejuvenate ancient hammams in Damascus (Syria) and Fez (Morocco) are some of the initiatives of the project. It is funded by the EU as part of the Euromed Heritage IV programme.

''For us, it is like planting the seed for the future,'' said Naima Lahbil, who is working on the project in Morocco with the Ader-Fez organisation.

The Seffarine Hammam cold room (above) and changing room (below)

''I remember doing guided tours with some young people,'' said Lahbil, ''who all live in Fez's Medina and all go to hammams, since it is considered a part of everyday life in Morocco. The hammam where I took them, however, they were not familiar with.

This means that heritage can be discovered every day, even living in the Medina and it being part of everyday life.'' The head of the Hammamed project in Fez said that during that visit to the Medina, ''the youths made some proposals on what they thought should change in the hammams to make it more of an attraction.''

The European project also worked with students from Fez's architecture faculty. Lahbil said that ''thanks to our seminars, these future architects now know that the hammam is a private experience and that the space itself must lead to this experience, with specific rules from the division of the heated areas to the lighting. But not only this: the hammam is a private experience and at the same time a universal and social one, since there is space to have a conversation in, where people can meet.''

The Hammamed head thinks that ''these are all factors that an architect must take into consideration.''

The European project also worked on the restoration of the ancient Turkish bath in Fez, the Seffarine one.

Lahbil said that ''thanks to our intervention, there is the chance that the restoration is in line with the original experience of the hammam, and we hope it will have an impact also on other hammams.''

The association Ader-Fez has now ''drawn up a feasibility study for the restoration of about 40 hammams in the Fez Medina. Lahbil noted that ''this document can be used to attract funding from donors. A few years back something similar was done for caravanserais, and some donors agreed to restore them,'' especially as ateliers for artisans to work in.

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Marrakech ~ Tales of the Unexpected

Today's guest contribution comes from one of the most intrepid travellers we have come across. Iain Mallory is one of those rare souls that has been almost everywhere you can think of and done a few things that probably never crossed your mind. A British ex-serviceman, rugby player, photographer, Iain has a penchant for adventurous pursuits; including mountaineering, skiing, kayaking and diving. He also has specific skills - he is an avalanche specialist and harbours the desire to become a storm-chaser. Here is his report on “Moroccan Tales of the Unexpected”

It’s always cool to find something a little unexpected, but in Marrakech, a city of the unexpected, sometimes getting a pleasant surprise can be extra special.

A genuine act of kindness

It seems unlikely that many of you are unaware of the Moroccan hamman - the quintessential spa treatment in this part of the world. Spa treatments, however, are not exactly high on my list of travel priorities. During my visit to Marrakech, despite having many leaflets thrust in my face by the numerous touts, it was one particular aspect of Moroccan culture that I was happy not to immerse myself in.

Returning to my riad one night, however, I was greeted by the owner, Mohammed. We struggled to communicate due to language barriers, but he was always pleasant and very friendly. On this occasion he guided me upstairs, showing me a small sort of steam room and indicated that I needed to get into a swimming costume.

It has to be admitted that an invitation to join another man that I barely knew or understood, wearing just my board shorts in a small little room at nearly midnight was not usually high on my list of priorities either!

But it was obvious that he was likely to be offended if his kind invitation was refused. As he had obviously gone to some trouble to prepare this ‘personal’ hamman it seemed churlish to decline.

Stepping gingerly into this little room dressed only in my ‘hula girl' board shorts, I was immediately ambushed by Mohammed wielding a flannel cloth, which was quickly followed by a loofah. For those not familiar with this unlikely weapon of torture, it can best be described as a very coarse sponge, designed to remove the upper layer of skin. This it does extremely efficiently, especially when in the hands of a heavy set man who seemed intent on testing my pain threshold.

This ‘attack’ was pretty thorough with almost no area remaining unscrubbed, although fortunately my groin was left with its dead skin intact! This was followed by a good dousing in some cool water and then a massage which started at my feet and worked its way up to my scalp.

I am not sure how skilled a masseur Mohammed actually is but it certainly left me feeling totally relaxed, strong fingers completely kneading away any tension that may have been lurking in my musculature.

Once this toe to head massage was completed, he ushered me to sit in the corner, a little like a naughty boy. My epidermis was scrubbed red raw and still tingling but felt totally refreshed all over from the shock and awe treatment it had just received.

After several minutes, permission was granted for me to leave. I thanked my benefactor profusely and sheepishly slinked off to bed. This was a totally unexpected treat, but one that was actually enjoyable and left me feeling special afterwards.

Finding sanctuary

Marrakech with its main square, souks, hordes of performers, traders, donkey carts, barrow boys and tourists bustling around the streets on foot, bicycles, scooters or in cars is hardly a place you might expect to find peace and quiet.

Dar TimTam, however, is an oasis in the midst of this chaos. Just ignore the name - it is not in any way associated with a certain Australian chocolate covered biscuit.

It is actually a little restaurant and coffee shop tucked away in an enclave off one of the main streets near the souks. It is only necessary to follow the obvious sign, and pass through the outer courtyard and there it is: a haven of tranquillity.

Although expensive in comparison to the majority of places in the medina, it must be the price of peace, silence and solitude to be found here. It has a decent menu of tagines, or pastries if arriving mid-afternoon as I did, not quite so hungry.

It is not only the human visitors to Marrakech that appreciate the quietness of this hidden sanctuary. There is a constant stream of sparrows in and out, picking up the crumbs dropped by the paying guests and visiting the central fountain for a bath and to quench their thirst.

It is certainly a pleasant surprise to discover this lovely little courtyard in the middle of the souks, enjoy a coffee and pastry, chat with a friend or just sit and absorb the solitude. Either way it is well worth seeking out.

Oh! Look, a celebrity!

Impromptu hamman aside, I was treated well by the owners of the Riad,  For the majority of my stay I enjoyed a room to myself; they provided me with two free breakfasts; topped me up with coffee and mint tea at all hours and even gave me a discount on a desert excursion.

It was not totally one-sided, as they gratefully received some marketing and guest handling advice from me. I also helped translate a few guest arrivals and provided a favourable review on my arrival back home; very symbiotic!

On one occasion however the staff seemed a little stressed and were especially busy getting the main atrium spic and span. Aziz, who was the ‘front’ man for the riad, seemed especially animated, barking orders to the cleaning girls and rushing about like an agitated bee.

This intrigued me. Was the King visiting today? A member of government? These seemed the only logical conclusions for all this activity. Having some work to do, I settled down at a table. There were a few new faces that turned out to be Norwegian. We chatted and they were as mystified as me regarding the fastidious spring cleaning being done.

The reason became clear a little later, when Ahmed Mohamadina, the goalkeeper for the Moroccan national football team appeared. He was with his coach and a few other guys; minders maybe? As soon as he arrived, it was assumed that I would act as official photographer, recording the visit for the riad scrapbook.

I had actually watched the game the Moroccan team had played in the previous evening in a pastry shop. The locals had been very happy with the result. Beating Nigeria in a friendly 3-0 was no mean feat, even on home soil here in Marrakech.

Mohamadina seemed a pretty friendly and down to earth guy. But I was amused by the reaction of the two cleaning girls; they were always happy and smiling but today they were like two star struck school girls. They almost tripped over each other trying to get an autograph. It was really quite sweet and I thought they were going to actually faint when I gestured to him to stand and get his photograph taken with each of them.


 It was definitely an unexpected bonus that morning: not because Mohamadina was some big star, but the frenetic activity earlier, the chatty Norwegians, fawning cleaners and his humble attitude were all refreshing.

It is doubtful that any trip goes by without something different occurring, an incident - an unexpected kindness or a chance encounter with an interesting traveller or celebrity. It is these little ‘extras’ that often make the experience that bit more special and turn a trip into an adventure with stories to regale our friends with upon return.

They are an invaluable part of any trip for me, and I look forward to many more ‘surprises’ on my future travels.

Photographs by Iain Mallory.
You can read more of Iain's adventures at Mallory on Travel

The View from Fez welcomes guest contributions. Email us at theviewfromfez@gmail.com

A Cultural Week in Fez

It has been a big week for social events in Fez. The View from Fez was out and about in the thick of it. Our team reports:

Helene George with The View from Fez's Suzanna Clarke

The UNESCO Expert Panel on Cultural Diversity met in Rabat during the week and despite being involved in cultural affairs, our correspondent reports that the expert panel had no chance to enjoy any cultural events. Indeed, they lodged in a modern hotel rather than a riad. Determined to rectify the situation, Helene George from Australia, journeyed to Fez and stayed in a traditional Riad in the Old Medina. Thankfully, Ms George says the trip more than fulfilled her expectations. In Fez she attended a lunch with women involved with hammam (traditional bath house) restoration and preservation, and enjoyed a performance of Gnaoua music. The lunch was held at the Makhfiya Hammam.

Naima Lahbil dancing in the Hammam!

Local women at the Hammam lunch

Naima Lahbil attending the Hammam lunch

Hammams were also the focus during the week when Fez hosted  the opening of the Hammamed Exhibition at the Cherratine Medersa. There are beautiful panoramic photographs, architectural models  and aerial views of the cities of Damascus, Cairo and Fez, where hammams are being restored. The exhibition is called "Hidden Door - Living Treasure" and it runs 10am to 6pm until April 8.

ADER Director General Fouad Serrhini at the exhibition opening

AND THEN THERE WAS MUSIC

Italy's Ducci Foundation hosted an evening of splendid early music at the beautiful Ducci Foundation headquarters in Fez, Kssar Annoujoum.

Kssar Annoujoum

 Guests were greeted by the founder of the Foundation, Paolo Ducci (pictured above), and then treated to a well chosen programme, performed by the Duo Girolamo Frescobaldi - Maria Palumbo (spinet) and Lorenzo Colitto (baroque violin).

The programme included two fine works by Frescobaldi (1585 - 1634) as well as the sonatas prima and secundo by Dario Castello (before 1658). However, as in any well constructed receital, the duo saved the best for last and delighted the small but discerning audience with G.A. Pandolfi Mealli's beautiful La Castella (Sonata op 3). It was a memorable performance presented by the Ducci Foundation in conjunction with the Foundation Esprit de Fes.

Maria Palumbo

Lorenzo Colitto

Other guests included Mme Danielle Mamane, the respected author and culinary expert, Faouzi Skali, Director General of the Spirit of Fez Foundation and Essaid Ben Amar Amrani, head of the Division of Cultural Affairs in Fez.

Essaid Ben Amar Amrani

Mme Danielle Mamane