Moroccan Caftans in Paris Fashion Show

This week the Moroccan designer Albert Oiknine charmed a capacity Parisian audience with his latest creations based on the Moroccan caftan. The show, under the evocative name of “Sultans”,  reflected the long history and traditions of the Moroccan caftan as well as the skill and creativity of Moroccan manufacturers

“above all, a hymn to the eternal feminine,”

Albert Oiknine’s caftans are “above all, a hymn to the eternal feminine,” wrote fashion critic Hasna Daoudi.

According to the Maghreb Agence Press, the Parisian public came in large numbers to discover the skills and dexterity of Moroccan artisans, and was charmed by the latest haute couture collection of Albert Oiknine, showing oriental costumes, primarily Moroccan caftans.

“Fitting shapes, silky and transparent materials, all adorned with jewels and embroidery, have enhanced this collection in which originality rhymes with sensuality,” one critic wrote.

Based for 15 years in Casablanca, where he gained all skills in oriental design, Albert Oiknine has contributed to the modernization and diffusion of the Moroccan Caftan and its popularity worldwide.


SHARE THIS!

The Moroccan Kaftan - Timeless Fashion

One of the most searched for terms on The View from Fez is the word "kaftan". While fashions come and go with increasing rapidity, there is something so alluring about kaftans that makes them timeless. Youssef Sourgo, writing for Morocco World News, waxes lyrical as he explores the reasons for the Kaftan's popularity

What could be the point in common between Mariah Carey, Hilary Clinton, Asala Nasri, Haifaa Wahbi, Elizabeth Taylor, Diana Haddad and Jennifer Lopez? The answer is that all of these international female celebrities were enchanted by the majestic beauty of the Moroccan attire, the Kaftan.

Syrian super-star Asala Nasri

Alongside all the aforementioned names, innumerable female celebrities from all corners of the world have found a perfect match to their sublimity in the Moroccan Kaftan. Thanks to faithful, taste-refined Moroccan women abroad, who have been ambassadors of the Moroccan elaborate apparel, the Kaftan’s magic has found its path to women’s hearts worldwide.

HH Princess Lalla Salma (centre) 

HH Princess Lalla Salma has also had an unquestionable share in rendering Kaftan every woman’s aspiration abroad. Princess Lala Salma, topping the list of Moroccan female ambassadors of Kaftan, has always elegantly stood out of the crowd, dressed in refined Kaftan designs on a myriad of important ceremonies abroad, ranging from the crowning of a royal figure to an international conference on women’s rights.

It is no coincidence that the traditional Moroccan Kaftan continues to appeal to leading female figures in the world, even to those who have a sophisticated sense of fashion and modernity. The intricate attire, with its dazzling colors, composite designs and refined tissues easily espoused modern trends of fashion, thus astounding both fans of modernity and tradition in clothing.

Who could believe that Beyonce, Mariah Carey and Jennifer Lopez, American’s international diva singers, who have for so long been engrossed in Western trends of fashion, would wind up falling in love with a traditional attire from the other sphere of the earth?

Who could believe that the most beautiful representative stars of the Arab world, the likes of Asala Nasri, Cherine, Ahlam and Diana Hadad would be attracted to the Moroccan attire while their cultures have their own distinctive traditional attires?

Credit has to be given ultimately to the tremendous efforts put into practice by Moroccan traditional designers. Kaftan’s current universal appeal will always be indebted to the professionalism and dedication of thousands of professional, traditional Moroccan designers. Kaftan’s early life kicked off in their romantic, humble shops, where handmade divinities were created.

Amazigh style kaftans

Credit has to be given, also, to all Moroccan women who have favored Kaftan over the myriad of fashion trades sweeping the world every second. Their persistence to keep the Kaftan an attire worn on most significant ceremonies, such marriages, festives and celebrations has kept the Kaftan in the spotlight.

SHARE THIS!

Caftan 2013 ~ A Marrakech Fashion Extravaganza

Last weekend saw the opening of the 17th edition of Caftan, one of the most prestigious events in the traditional Moroccan haute couture scene. It is all over in only a couple of hours, but the work behind the glitz and glamour has taken months.

There is tremendous competition even before a single caftan glides down the catwalk. Only fifteen fashion designers are selected from the more than 50 who submitted their portfolios to the organizers. Once chosen, the designers have only four months to prepare a collection of eight caftans.  Then comes the tension of waiting to see how the critics react to the new designs.

Top fashion designer Meriyem Boussikouk from Casablanca (pictured left) has 20 years of experience in the industry. Yet she said she was still nervous about how the public would react to her new collection. “We have been nervous since we started preparing for the show, and our nerves grow as the event gets nearer, because we are not sure about ourselves 100 percent. There are new creations as well as new ideas we want to propose to the public, and we are not sure about the reaction (it’ll get). Will the public accept or reject what we offer?”

The theme chosen by this year’s event organizers, a Fashion magazine called FDM, or Femmes du Maroc, was “Women of Legend”. The designers were to be inspired by a variety of women who made history for a variety of reasons, such as Audrey Hepburn, Umm Kulthum, Cleopatra, Coco Chanel and Marilyn Monroe among others.

Khalid Bazizd, the show’s producer, said the goal was to pay tribute to these fascinating women who seemed to have had everything: beauty, power, talent, knowledge and glory. “We chose the theme of ‘Women of Legend’ because it inspires fashion designers. These women have always been full women (the embodiment of womanhood). In the Moroccan history, we took Kahina. We also chose Umm Kulthum, Marilyn Monroe and other women. The most important thing is that women are not there just to complement men. At the same time, we revisited the history of Morocco as well as the world’s history to put women up front. What can you find more beautiful than a caftan to showcase women?”

Designer Dany Atrache

Each edition of Caftan has a guest of honor, and this year it was the turn of the French-Lebanese designer Dany Atrache. “I came to Morocco to learn how Moroccans work on this traditional garment, because there is a lot of work involved in it and also it is made in a special way,” said Atrache. “We cannot call it a designer piece, because a designer piece is linked to fashion that changes every six months. Here, we are talking of a traditional garment that is centuries old, yet it looks as new. It is not easy to reach this level of perfection,” he added.

The audience was entertained by colourful dance sequences inspired by Coco Chanel, Marie Antoinette and Marilyn Monroe. The Choreographer was Moroccan Malika Zaidi. “I will show off all these women through choreography and acting. What strikes me most is the beauty. For me, all women are beautiful regardless of their shape. They could be tall, short or fat - they are always beautiful”.


SHARE THIS!

Amazigh Festival Closes on a High Note ~ Plus Caftans!

Last night's diverse events closed the 8th annual Amazigh festival. Two concerts, one at the al-Hourriya Complex and one at Bab Makina, emphasised the sheer diversity of Morocco's roots and contemporary artistic expression. Chris Witulski reports.

The earlier event in the new city featured modern and traditional artists. The space was not overflowing, but the energy between the performers and audience was palpable. As Mohamed Akouray's small ensemble of Amazigh performers entertained the crowd, they highlighted the poetic tradition by reciting a long story in the "mother tongue" that was punctuated by applause and vocal responses from the listeners.

The four men, three dressed in white jellabas and one in more outrageous traditional garb, played bendirs (frame drums) and a double-piped wind instrument not unlike many seen across North Africa. The wind player, marching around the stage, excited and engaged the audience - his connection was emphasised by the sheer volume of cameras that were taking pictures. It was stark, watching the traditional performance through the tiny screens of a sea of point-and-shoots.

The closer for the first concert was a sh'abi singer, Abdou Ben Tayeb. His slick (and slightly shiny) suit was a vast jump from the traditional dress of the preceding artist. With two electric keyboards, a drum set, and an 'ud player, he got the audience moving and brought the event to a close.

A short taxi ride brought me to a very different concert that was just getting started at Bab Makina.

Sarsale, a young Catalonian flamenco group opened. As they began, their song choice demonstrated their chops and featured the singer, Ramón Piñas, and guitarist, Alberto Pons. Soon the crowd was treated to the dancing of Violeta Barrio before the tenor shifted to newer styles of flamenco-oriented songwriting.

Abd al-Rahim Amrani

The first half closed with an appearance by Abd al-Rahim Amrani, the leader of a Fessi Hamadsha troupe. He joined the group to sing a popular song, creating a melodic connection between the international performers and the festival's local focus. (This was helpful, since flamenco's inclusion in the Amazigh festival was a bit tenuous at best in the first place, though not unwelcome!)

The caftan show

Following a fashion show featuring Amazigh-styled caftans, the weekend's events concluded with a performance by Libyan rock group Oussan Band.

The lead singer walked out with a "Flying V" guitar, think Slayer, and I immediately expected some bone-jolting Amazigh death metal (which, to be honest, got me a bit excited). Instead, the band performed up pop-oriented tunes about Libya, Amazigh identity, and freedom, spiced with hints of reggae.

Alas, another summer festival comes to a close in Fez. Now, to see what Ramadan brings out way…

SHARE THIS!

Moroccan Kaftan 2012 - Inspired by Ibn Battuta

Kaftan 2012 - the most prestigious traditional fashion show in Morocco, this year drew inspiration from the great traveller Ibn Battuta. It was the 16th edition of the annual fashion event in Marrakech, showcasing 12 established designers and two newcomers foreshadowing upcoming trends inspired by the traditional Moroccan kaftan.

The 16th edition of the event took place on Saturday 12th May at the Palais des Congress and was an opportunity for 12 designers - including Cain Allah El Batoul, Dar Oum Al Ghait and Siham El Habti - to highlight their talents.

"The treasures of Ibn Battuta" was the event’s theme, named after a prominent Moroccan traveler known for his adventures and voyages from Tangier. Ibn Battuta went to Haj in 1304 before setting on a world tour that took him to many countries in the Middle and Far East.

The kaftan, which is said to have originated from Iran, has become an icon of traditional Moroccan fashion and sophistication.

Myriam Jebbor, director and editor of the woman's monthly magazine "Femmes du Maroc," which supports the event, said the event attempts to surprise the Moroccan audience on an artistic level as well as meeting the event’s annual theme.

"Each edition is an individual one. Every time, we want to surprise the Moroccan public, on an artistic level. This year, we chose ‘The treasures of Ibn Battuta’ as a theme. We wanted to go back to origins and discover, through Ibn Battuta's travels, various countries and cultures," Jebbor said.

The show featured performances and artistic intervals from Ibn Battuta’s travels from Egypt, Turkey as well as Russia and a number of other countries. Some of the collections were designed by some of the most celebrated names in Moroccan Haute Couture.

Each kaftan is created delicately with hours of meticulous work by dozens of traditional artisans. Some of the collections display oriental influences.

Jais Zinoun, a choreographer and former soloist with the San Francisco ballet who has graced many of the world's stages, helped stage the show.

"These countries have an enormous wealth, both in dancing and in music. I invited some artists who will represent some countries such as Georgia and China. I used a lot of choreography because I am a choreographer and dancer myself and was inspired by the travelling theme."

Proceeds from the show will be donated to two children's charities.

SHARE THIS!

Festival of Amazigh Culture in Fez

Morocco's new constitution, approved by voters last week, recognises Amazigh as an official language of the country. It's fitting, therefore, that the 7th Festival of Amazigh Culture will be held from 15-17 July in Fez.

The Festival's theme this year is The Amazigh Language in Education and Media in the Maghreb and the Diaspora. It comprises a series of talks, concerts, a play, workshops, a film screening, poetry readings, exhibitions of Amazigh carpets, books, art and a caftan fashion show. It's organised by the Spirit of Fes Foundation in conjunction with the Fes Saiss Association, the BMCE Foundation, the South North Centre and the University of Sidi Mohamed ben Abdellalh in Fez. Attendance is free of charge.  Here's the programme:

Talks and exhibitions: Palais de Congres
Concerts: Bab Boujloud at 19h00 and Bab al Makina at 20h30
Play: Al Houria Complex

FRIDAY 15 JULY
16h00 Congress opens
18h00-19h30 Amazigh heritage and the role of identity in social change and human development
19h00 Bab Boujloud: Ahwash; Tifyur Group; In Con Trada (Italy)
20h30 Bab al Makina: Rumba Tarumba (Spain); In Con Trada (Italy); Hadda Ouakki; Daoudia

SATURDAY 16 JULY
Workshop: The Tifinagh Alphabet (presented by the Royal Institute of Amazigh Culture)
09h00: The civilisational and integrational dimensions of Amazigh culture
11h00: Socio-cultural representation of Amazigh in the education system
15h00: Teaching the Amazigh language in the Maghreb and the diaspora
15h00: Writing workshop
17h00: Amazigh in the education system and the media
19h00: Bab Boujloud: Daq Sif; Mayara Band
20h30: Bab al Makina: Ahidous Maestro; Ferroudja Saidia Group; Tachinwit

SATURDAY 17 JULY
09h00: Amazigh in the Maghrebi media
11h15: Poetry readings with poets Omar Taous, Moulay Ahmed Damou, Hddou Khoursa, Ait Larbi Moulay Elghali and Oubella Med Souiri

16h00: Complex al Houria: Amazigh film screening; dance and song by Femmes de la Source
19h00: Bab Boujloud: Ribab Fusion; Ithran al Houceima
20h30: Bab al Makina: Mohammed Mellal; Mohamed Rouicha; Caftan fashion show

For more information, contact Moha Ennaji.

What to wear in Ramadan: the Moroccan djellaba

Many women don traditional caftans or djellabas during Ramadan, even if they don't usually wear them. The View from Fez takes a look.

The djellaba is a long garment, usually with bell-shaped sleeves and a hood. It usually features heavy embroidery and hand-made silk buttons. It can be a work-a-day coverall, or a highly fashionable statement. As people look to tradition during the holy month of Ramadan, many women wear them as a matter of course. Tailors do a roaring trade just before Ramadan starts, and again just before the Eid, when many people like to have new clothes.

silk embroidery and hand-made buttons adorn a djellaba

Imane Belhaj, writing for Magharebia, reports that interest in the djellaba grows around national and religious holidays.

"In Ramadan, I stop wearing modern clothes and I wear djellabas that I buy especially for this occasion, because we are supposed to wear decent clothes, and there is no better option than the djellaba," said Farida Nasi, who chooses modern designs.

modern caftans

The garment has actually started to respond to the fashion of the times. It no longer is restricted to one type of sewing or one colour as was the case in the past. Rather, traditional tailors have excelled in sewing and making them a form of dress that responds to fashion without losing its peculiarity and identity.

"This has made it a uniquely Moroccan form of dress that is indispensable at all times and occasions, even in the workplace for female employees, as it no longer impedes them from moving easily," says tailor Hajj Bouhlal.

There are sleeveless djellabas to suit the hot weather, and dresses made of silk of different colours and patterns.

Fatima Mourad, a university history researcher, explains that "the djellaba has a traditional image that embodies the past and links it to the present by adding a modern touch that makes it suitable for all time and for all generations."

Rashida al-Jabri, a teacher, added that she can't foresee the extinction of the djellaba. Regardless of developments taking place over time, she stated, the garment will be passed on to later generations.

Although some types of Moroccan djellabas are still affordable to a large category of middle class citizens, the innovations of top designers and dressmakers have made them very costly. Prices in some cases are now higher than those of traditional caftans or takchitas (a form-fitting dress with matching coat).

"These prices are due to the type of fabric and sewing accessories used, which are often of very high quality so that we may not let our customers down when they are looking for quality and elegance" said designer and dressmaker Soad Benkirane.

Benkirane added that customers could choose to have more affordable djellabas made.

"Everyone knows that the hands that excel in making djellabas are very cheap, while all the huge profits go to the owners of stores or holders of trademark," lamented Nora, a consumer.

Moroccan Caftans - A Royal Parade

Moroccan caftans (kaftans) are closely watched by the fashion industry around the world and now a new wave of both male and female designers are taking things a step further. As one male designer says "I am liberating Moroccan women with my designs". The old values are changing - gone are the full length dresses and the covered bust. New daring designs are making an entrance and it will be interesting to see how they are accepted.

Here is a recent compilation of Royal Caftans!

Fez Medina's new antique shop

What do you do when you have TWO houses full of antiques and beautiful objets? This little conundrum has been solved by Mehdi Msefer, who has recently opened his new shop, Boutique Numero 1, in Batha.



The shop stocks ceramics, brassware, furniture, carpets, hendiras, jewellery and clothing such as caftans, djellabas, scarves and belts. Mehdi tells us that he has over 700 Berber carpets, and they are of particularly high quality.

carpet detail

The hendiras and cushion covers also display very fine work.

cushion cover

In the glass-fronted cabinets you'll find superb examples of jewel-coloured silk scarves and belts. Saleswoman Beatrice admits that it will be a wrench to sell anything at all, so attached is she to these beautiful pieces of artistry.

silk belts and scarves

When Helen Ranger visited, she was delighted to find that she knew Mehdi of old. He's also the owner of the excellent restaurant, Trois Sources.

Boutique Numero 1
1 Rue Ahmed Mekouar, Batha (almost opposite the Treasury Office)
ph 0661 35 02 50
open 9am to 9pm daily

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan Kaftans hit the catwalk.

If kaftans are your thing, then last weekend Casablanca was the place to be. Maroc Premium magazine hosted the 3rd annual Mode Made in Morocco and the spotlight was eight designers whose work blended tradition and modern fashion.

According to Michele Desmottes, the fashion show's director, "Moroccan designers are getting more and more orders from abroad as people recognise the exceptional creativity in Morocco."

Her view is shared by the Parisian couturier Dominique Sirop, the show's guest of honour. "For three years, we've been seeing a real emergence of Moroccan designers, worthy of what is happening in other countries," he said. "They prove that Morocco is not just the sun, tajine and the kaftan."

A Mademoiselle Lucien design.

Most of the outfits seen Saturday looked traditional with their embroidery and shimmering colours, but the actual tailoring was much more contemporary, with bustiers and short skirts contrasting with the common flowing kaftan.

Designers such as Jamal Daoudi and Nabil Dahani still draw inspiration from Morocco, but as they work in Paris, their creations seem more audacious, more modern, lighter, and indeed more European.

Hassan Tanner took home the Jean-Louis Scherrer prize for his dresses that were light and closely cut to the body -- perhaps the most radical designs to be seen at the weekend's show.

Creations by Marrakesh-based Frederique Birkemeyer were equally feminine, rich in embroidery and inlay.

One wonders what Yves Saint Laurent would have thought. The legendary French designer, who died in Paris in June aged 71, kept a second home in Marrakech, and many of his best creations took inspiration from the kaftan.

Menswear got a look-in at this year's Mode Made in Morocco as well, with Tangiers native Salima Salima Abdel-Wahab sending out two highly original outfits light years from that classic desert robe, the djellaba.

Designs from previous years

Organisers nevertheless unanimously regretted a lack of support for the show this year from both the government and the garment industry.

"It is time to wake up and to encourage individual talent," Desmottes said, as Sirop underlined the role that fashion can play "in the economic development of the country."

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Caftan Fashions at The Clock

A fashion show of caftans by Sefrou haute couture designers Nany Cerise was recently held on the terrace at Cafe Clock. Helen Ranger was there for The View from Fez. 

This green velvet caftan embroidered in gold started the proceedings. It reappeared later with a gold lace takshita (long jacket worn over the caftan) encrusted with 'emeralds'. There were some beautiful designs in bold colours, augmented by the passementerie (elaborate embroidery and tiny buttons) that Sefrou is famous for.


Crowd-pleasers included a floaty pink floral, a dramatic black with silver embroidery and large silver buckle on the belt, a cherry ice satin with maroon velvet trim and a stunning lemon and lime. Not to be left out, the men wore handsome outfits too, one in black and one in white with brown embroidery, particularly on the stand-up collar.


The models were all from Sefrou, coached by local Peace Corps workers, and were very professional.

The Nany Cerise boutique is in Sefrou, ph 061 52 27 71 or 066 73 52 80.


photo credits: top, Helen Ranger; all others Omar Chennafi

SEE ALSO: KAFTANS/CAFTANS - 2012

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

New Moroccan Caftans unveiled in Fez

Space to relax at Riad Alkantara

With the completion of work at the stunning Riad Alkantara, Camille Lorenzetti and Abdelfettah Seffar invited a select group of friends join them to celebrate the upcoming opening in September.

Abdelfettah Seffar

Camille Lorenzetti models one of the caftans

Sofia and Ghizlane of G&S Haute Couture Traditionnelle

Camille promised surprises, and there certainly were - a display of Moroccan Caftans designed by Ghizlane and Sofia of G & S Haute Couture Traditionelle.

fabric detail

The garments were sumptuous, of fabulously rich fabrics embroidered and embellished and modelled by three young Moroccan women. Much to the amazement and delight of the crowd, a young man in traditional dress arrived on a hennaed and caparisoned stallion.


There was a chance to take a look at the beautiful gardens and swimming pool at the riad, as well as plenty of delicious food.

The construction work has been carried out with superb attention to the smallest detail and the result is an establishment that should set a benchmark for top of the market accommodation. It is pure luxury - but with refined taste.


Musicians, including the renowned Anass Habib, entertained the A-list crowd. The View from Fez wishes Camille and Abdelfettah all the best with their wonderful new venture and we're looking forward to being invited for a dip in the pool!




Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news