The Disappearing Cats of Fez

One of the wonderful things about living in the old Medina of Fez is the speed with which rumours spread. the latest one appears to confirm what several people have noticed: there are fewer cats in the Medina.

The rumour is that there has been a cull of cats. Because of the huge number of Medina cats, a cull may have been necessary. Of course this is the time of year when all the kittens start their hazardous journey towards adulthood and with fewer competitors probably stand a better chance of survival.

However, as one Fez resident told us, some of her favourite cat characters are no longer to be seen. Thankfully a majority of the people of Fez are particularly kind to cats. Our neighbours here at The View from Fez have all been feeding the street cats. One kind soul even provided an old bag as a bed for a family of four kittens.

"Is it safe to come out?"

According to one of our readers there has been a round-up of alley cats. What is certain is that the evening feline get-together at our local fountain is a much diminished affair.

So, if anyone knows the "real" story, do let us know. In the meantime, be kind to your local cats, after all, if it was not for them, we would probably have a problem with rats and mice.

Love in Morocco: Cheryl Fergison marries her Moroccan

The View from Fez ran a story in July last year (see it here) about the British actress Cheryl Fergison, who had found love in Morocco. The story engendered plenty of comments about the match. Now the UK's Mirror reports that the lovers have tied the knot.


It seems that 25-year-old Yassine al-Jermoni is a shop assistant in Agadir, rather than a goatherd as reported earlier. 46-year-old Cheryl, who appears in the BBC1 soapie Eastenders, 'met' Yassine in an internet chatroom and fell instantly in love.

Cheryl has been spending as much time as possible in Morocco, and the couple was secretly married in Agadir on 28 April. She now divides her time between Morocco and her home in Kent. Cheryl has bought an apartment in an upmarket part of Agadir, and last week flew to the coastal resort with her 12-year-old son Alex from a previous marriage. The apartment must be a big change for Yassine, who grew up in a rundown suburb.

Unfortunately, though, Yassine has no visa allowing him to move to the UK, so Cheryl has hired a ­solicitor to speed up the legal process. She has taken time off from ­EastEnders, where she earns €114,000 a year, to ­oversee Yassine’s visa application. It is believed that the couple are planning a UK ceremony with all Cheryl’s friends and ­family when Yassine finally moves here.

A neighbour at their Agadir apartment said: “Cheryl seems to have settled in well during her trips here. She goes out in the ­mornings to put the rubbish out and buy croissants from a local baker. Yassine’s a late riser and you don’t see much of him until mid-­afternoon.”

Cheryl stunned friends and colleagues last year when she revealed that she was going to marry the penniless Moroccan after just a few months ­together. Her previous marriage to ­Jamshed Saddiqi broke down in 2008. But she says she is positive that this marriage will last and that she’s met the man of her dreams.

In a previous interview she said: “I’ve never been so happy. I’ve found a bliss I didn’t know existed. I don’t think I’ve ever been in love until now.”

Speaking about how their romance flourished over the ­internet before she flew to ­Morocco to meet Yassine, ­Cheryl said: “I get a feeling about people, gut instincts... we just talked and talked for hours. I fell in love before we’d even met.”

Yassine, equally smitten, said when describing their first ­meeting: “It was amazing when I first laid eyes on my beautiful Cheryl.

“That was the most ­emotional day of my life.”

Cheryl sports a new silver wedding ring

photos: Mirror

View from Fez Birthday @ The Clock

Last night, Cafe Clock turned on a splendid birthday party to mark five years of The View from Fez.

Mike Richardson came up trumps with refreshments as well as a huge cake. A second cake also made a brief appearance before being completely consumed.

Kleo in purple party mood!

One of the two major prize winners, Vanessa Bonnin, with her "Volubilis after rain".

The View from Fez Birthday Party - Saturday !

Come and celebrate 5 years of The View from Fez!

On Saturday, The View from Fez turns 5 !
From a quiet beginning we have grown to over one million, one hundred thousand visits and with three thousand stories and thousands of images from around Morocco. So we are having a party at Café Clock!

YOU ARE INVITED !

Café Clock

7 pm Saturday 

 At the same time we will be announcing all the winners in the Moroccan Photography Competition.

Who will the winners be?
(Click image to enlarge)

You have to love an "oops"!

From time to time I have used my commentator and opinion role on the View from Fez to bemoan the orientalist nonsense that gets perpetuated by the mainstream media when it writes about Morocco. However, this time, it is just a chuckle.


The National Review Online's man in Marrakech has started a small "brush fire" as my American friends call it. In his Marrakech Journal he wrote: The Star of David is the symbol of Morocco. It’s woven into everything, including the logo of Royal Air Maroc. For some reason, I have a feeling they don’t call it the Star of David in Morocco.

Naturally, his readers were quick to point out that counting the number of points on a star will assist in naming it. Quite right too.

Then there was this: Finally, want to tell you this: All over the Medina here in Marrakech this morning, I saw the word “Derb” — meaning “Dead End.” I am sure his readers will point out the correct translation at some point. Anyway, on the upside, Jay Nordlinger does bring an, er, fresh perspective. I don't know how long Jay will be amongst us, but let me be among the first to say "Welcome to Morocco, Jay".

Eva Longoria's Billboard Fiasco

Eva Longoria has become the focus of a little cultural storm in Morocco. Nothing too grand, but enough to get the commentators and the glitterati chattering. Our own QOG (Queen of Gossip), Felicity Chambers-Beauchamp couldn't resist the story, so here is her report:

If you are a fan of Desperate Housewives ( and, my dears, I am certainly not suggesting you might be), then Eva Jacqueline Longoria Parker who plays the part of Gabrielle Solis, will be familiar to you. Eva Longoria has always a bit of a headline grabber. She has graced the cover of Vogue and , more recently, in all the US gossip rags, following a small car accident. She even went down the path to perfume. One wonders how big a Desperate Housewives fan you would have to be to want to buy her perfume (described by most as "forgettable).

Anyway, all that pales into insignificance compared to the war being waged over her image on real estate billboards here in Marrakech. Talk about cultural shock. Call me old-fashioned, call me a prude, or (as I like to think) call me "culturally sensitive". But the sight of billboards with Eva's visage displayed came as a bit of a shock. Not that she might not be called attractive, by some. No, it was not the face. It was the cleavage! Oh dear! I can hear you tut-tutting and pointing out that the poor girl really doesn't have much in that department. Well, maybe it's a photo-fix jobby, or the light was just right, or the angle, but it sure looked like cleavage to me.

So what's wrong with a bit of cleavage?  Ah, it is all about context. In a gloriously written article on Moroccoboard, that great girl, Nora Fitzgerald, sets the context wonderfully...

Imagine you are driving through peaceful Amazigh country, passing mud villages, olive orchards, and farmers harvesting their year’s supply of wheat. Men and women’s voices rise through the sleepy sunlit air, singing traditional harvest songs, sheep roam in search of shreds of pasturage, an old man in a jellaba rides by on a donkey. Nothing could mar this bucolic serenity.

Then, all of a sudden, why it’s Giant Eva Longoria.

Go Nora! What we are dealing with here is a lack of suitable photoshopping. If the art director had thought about it he might have considered that in Berber culture some body parts are considered to be private. He might have considering buttoning Ms Longoria up, or adding a scarf! But no. From Marrakech to Casablanca and beyond the cleavage is on display. For what? To sell real estate! I swear it's true. Condos!  "Votre Appartement"!

 The crafty locals are not taking this calmly. In fact a group of folks with black spray-cans are on the job. Not very artistically, it might be said, but certainly effective.

We are sure to hear more of this, but in the meantime do read the divine Nora's piece.  You will find it here: Moroccoboard 

 As Nora was always brighter than me, I'll leave you with some of her wise words.

It’s the juxtaposition of two completely different realities that is so unsettling. On the one hand, we have this world of image and fantasy, of unimaginable riches and luxuries, of ersatz culture that attempts to package and commodify the Moroccan experience with no soul whatsoever. All of it a vacuous Orientalist version of a Morocco pandering to the every whim of the upper crust. A vision of Morocco that would not hesitate, for example, to introduce alcohol to a valley that has been dry forever, with no thought given to how it might destroy the lives of the locals.

On the other hand, we have the traditional lives of the Moroccan Berbers. Berber families that are still connected to the natural cycles in the most primordial of ways. Whose actions and intentions stem from a deep faith in God, enjoying the contentment that ensues. Whose meals are bread from their own land, olive oil from their own trees, served in clay dishes from the Ourika river, sitting on rag rugs they’ve made with their own hands from scraps of old clothes. There is nothing more real, beautiful, spiritual, sustainable. They, and all the traditional peoples of the world, are the original “organic, local and slow” ways that we crave and long to return to.

Cinema Amal Gardens Under Threat

Local residents were dismayed when the news reached them that the gardens and trees beside Cinema Amal at R'cif were under threat. As one local resident said "Some business people want to clear the gardens so that there can be more parking."

The demonstration started small

If this is indeed the plan, then it has run into stiff opposition. The shade giving trees and small garden beds are a favourite resting place for hundreds of women and children. In summer the children play in the square behind the garden, the women sit and chat and the men frequent the popular local cafes. Often people use the space right up until midnight.

In recent times the traffic system has improved, with a local bus stop and turning circle for tourist coaches. While car parking has been a problem, other alternatives exist, such as increasing the parking back towards Ziat.

As the protesters repeated over and over "It is a shame, a shame. We need a green future, not a concrete one."

The crowd continued to grow through the morning

The demonstration began around 8.30 am and slowly the crowd grew, with not only local residents, but also some of the business people from the area. With megaphones and banners, the protesters continued their protest for some hours, gathering an increasingly large crowd.

Local businessman Dris said "I hope the authorities are listening. We need trees more than we need more cars."

Hopefully the authorities will listen to the voice of the local people.

(Reporting: Sanae. photo credit: Carrie Hauxwell)

Fez happenings

The cultural life in Fez is buzzing at the moment and there is plenty to choose from. The 4th International Festival of Expressive Dance opens today and our spies tell us that among the local talent performing will be Camilia Ej Hatim, one of the great staff at Cafe Clock.

The festival will feature traditional and contemporary dance performances by troupes from Morocco, France, Belgium, Cameroon, Congo and South Africa.

You will find the provisional programme here: Dance Festival

Also opening at Cafe Clock today is Dhikr, an exhibit of calligraphy, photography, and prose by Mohammed Charkaoui, Robert Harrison and Maryam El Haytami.

Sangoma Everett

At Dar Batha the French Institute will present the Sangoma Everett Quartet playing (we are told) some very funky music!

Also today, there is a public rally in R'cif to save the beautiful gardens beside Cinema Amal. Local residents are upset by plans by some local business people to have the area cleared of the gardens. The View from Fez will report later today on developments.

Further afield, The New York Times has been singing the praises of Morocco. The paper described the imperial city of Fez, as a cultural, intellectual and religious center, saying that “its medieval medina, Fes el Bali, is especially intricate and sprawling” featuring places, such as the 14th-century Bou Inania school and mosque with their stunning decorative artwork.

The New York Times also recommends its readers not to miss to visit “the ninth-century Karaouine University, considered the world’s oldest continuously operating institution of higher learning; and the leather tanneries.” Mmm - hardly "in depth" reporting!

Police Act On Medina Motorbikes

At last the police have begun to act on the hazards caused by motorbikes and scooters being ridden in the Fes Medina.

For a long time residents, tourists and The View from Fez, have been calling for action to stop this noisy, polluting and dangerous disturbance on the Medina streets. Now action is being taken.

Police swoop outside Thami's Restaurant 

The View from Fez was present when police swooped on three men riding in the Batha area. Locals applauded as the men were taken away. Hopefully the word will spread soon to other riders that riding in the Medina will not be tolerated.

We congratulate the Medina Police for now starting to take action. We hope it will continue.

A Marriage made in the Medina

The team at The View from Fez would like to join with the people of the Medina in congratulating Fred and Cathy on their wedding. The simple but beautiful ceremony was held in France and now the very happy couple are back home at Riad Laaroussa.

 Sola Power! 

Riad Laaroussa in celebration mode

A Moroccan Love Story?

Is there something in the Moroccan air? Something, maybe, in the water? Whatever it is it seems to be a powerful force when it comes to instant love. While there are many stories that could be told, our Celeb Affairs Editor, Amanda Huntingdon-Smyth, takes up the story of a love affair in Agadir, that has tongues wagging across the UK.

She is 46. He is 21. She is a well known British soap opera star and he is a virtually penniless Moroccan goatherd. According to various media reports (RTE, News of the World et al) Eastenders' star, Cheryl Fergison is to wed a Moroccan goatherd Yassim al-Jemoni "after romping with him in a field".

The happy couple.

Divorcee Cheryl, who plays the dimwitted Heather Trott in the soap and is described by her friends as being diabetic and clinically obese, met Yassim on a social networking site. After a few Skype conversations she travelled to Morocco to meet him. Unable to spend private time in Yassim's parents apartment they spent time out amongst the goats and love was born!.

"It was electric," Cheryl says,"He made me feel like a woman."

Then, according to The News of the World, there was a second visit to Morocco at the end of June when Cheryl booked a luxurious villa for them both and revealed that she was a famous TV star in Britain.

The goatherd soon proposed to her, insisting it had nothing to do with her wealth. Smitten Cheryl was unsure at first but returned home to confide in friends that she'd found "the one". Well, good for him! Now, believe it or not the happy romping couple are to get married.

Will it end in smiles or tears? We'll keep you posted.

As promised here is the update: Moroccan Love Story Part 2

Faces in the medina: Vincent and Vanessa Bonnin

News that there will be a new French restaurant in the medina has been buzzing for some time. The View from Fez introduces the people behind the plan: Vincent and Vanessa Bonnin.

Top chef Vincent Bonnin

Vincent, who underwent rigorous training in France, has worked in various Michelin-starred restaurants in the UK. Vanessa trained in journalism and photography, but they've both been in the hospitality industry for some years now. Vanessa says that if you want to ever see a husband who's a chef, then you've got to work with him. They have spent some years working on yachts in the Caribbean.

Vincent has always wanted his own restaurant. The opportunity arose when Vanessa read an article in a British newspaper's property section about Morocco. The article was mostly about the Marrakech property market, and Fez was only mentioned briefly, but it was enough to pique her interest. Within days they were on a flight to Fez.

Vanessa Bonnin

They had a week to find a property, and of course, were told it couldn't be done. But once you're on the right track, things have a tendancy to fall into place, and this is just what happened. The house is in Derb Moulay Ismail, just off Tala'a Seghira, so is a perfect location for a restaurant.

There's a way to go yet. The house has to be renovated, and Vincent and Vanessa are now in the throes of applying for various permits. But within a year or so, the medina could have its first ever French-run restaurant, which will be called Restaurant Faracha, meaning butterfly in Arabic.

Restaurant Faracha will specialise in Mediterranean brasserie-style food, with an emphasis on Spanish, Italian and Greek fare. Vincent plans mid-range prices that he thinks will appeal to tourists and residents alike. If you'd like to try Vincent's culinary skills, head for the Majestic where he's currently working as head chef.

Majestic: 0535 729 999

Tarik ~ Ambassador to Disney Land

Tarik and Mike and the famous lemon tart mixture

There were tears on the faces of many of the staff from Café Clock last night as they said farewell to Tarik, the master chef who has worked with Mike Richardson, Max and the crew, since the café opened.

Tarik is off, not on a holiday, but on the trip that will change his life. He has been accepted as a trainee at two major restaurants in Disney Land. The View from Fez caught up with Tarik yesterday and found him excited beyond belief that the "boy from Fez" was off not to Paris or London, places he has dreamed of working, but the USA.

"I will be in Orlando, Florida working in restaurants that specialise in Mediterranean and North African food," Tarik says. He has a grin a mile wide on his face. "It came by chance. A year ago I found a website offering training abroad. I applied to go to Paris, or London. Then, after I sent some documents, to my surprise I was offered a job in the USA. It was a huge surprise."

So, armed with a visa, Tarik leaves today and by the time most people read this, he will have landed abroad for the first time in his life. Mike Richardson is sad to see Tarik go but as he says "It's an opportunity of a lifetime and our best wishes go with him."

And will he return?

"It will be a great experience and I will learn a lot of things and they will be helpful for me here in Fez. Maybe I might try and get experience in France. But I will always come back to Fez,' Tarik says. "I will be back cooking lemon tart like before, but with new ideas."

And in Disney Land Tarik says, he thinks he would like to dress up as Mickey Mouse. The View from Fez wishes Sidi Tarik Mouse all the best.

Tarik is farewelled by Mike

Medina Gossip - Dar Roumana House Party

Tuesday night saw the annual Dar Roumana House Party - an event that was particularly special this year because it saw the end of one era and the beginning of another.

The View from Fez was invited along and Daphne Fynch-James, our new Society Editor, infiltrated the crowd and emerged to file this report. (Sandy McCutcheon took the photographs.)

Didier dancing up a storm!

Dar Roumana could well be renamed "Dar Romantica" - such was the love in the air at the farewell to two much loved Medina folk; Didier & Justine.

It is claimed that they have spent an entire year in Fez, but it seems so short a time (dear reader, I had only just got accustomed to Justine's cute accent!).

Dancing and eating at the same time is possible!

The fabulous food that Didier created will linger in our memories long after he has departed. And while the vivacious Jen (oh my! how that girl can dance!) has found two admirable replacements, I fear I will have to venture to the antipodes to get my fix of Didier's cooking.

Yes, dear reader, you did not make a mistake. I did say "antipodes"... and not somewhere civilised like Awe-stralia.. but New Zild. Yes... the far off Aotearoa, land of the long white ... thingumy. According to all reports the expecting couple (ooh don't you just shiver when you find out which salon that happened in???) are going to Queenstown. Now, Sandy, who accompanied me to take the photographs, is a New Zealander and swears that Queenstown is simply brill - but, then he also eats Moroccan snails!

Farewell to the old gang

Anyway, Jen (she of the 80's music), has brought a touch of London chic to replace the French chic... The newcomers, Johno and Fern (with a name like that she could well be a Kiwi, but she's not)... and they cooked up some treats and I am booking a seat at their first big dinner to give my weary taste buds a vacation from lamb and prune tagine.

Johno, Fern, Jenifer, Didier and Justine

The real genuine live musicians (so much more satisfying than dead ones) were an absolute treat. and within seconds had Mike from Cafe Clock inventing a whole new dance form, with Gail adding some classy moves most of us would be needing therapy if we performed. No time to describe the frocks... but Dominick was resplendant, his friend in red chinese... ohhhh so zaz! Jen was alluring in black, Kleo was... well simply Kleo-esque and Josephine radiant. The hot news is that 30% of those present had iPhones - ha! - and no wireless! The other 70% wished they did. I mean, I actually saw someone pull out an ancient BlackBerry - talk about the need to renovate!

Medina Gossip #3509

Hot from the Marrakesh Medina.

Back in August, The View from Fez reported that the cast and crew of Sex and the City were going to film in Morocco. At the time, Katey Rich, writing for the website Cinema blend.com said, "There are some obvious explanations for what would bring the shoot to Morocco - Carrie and Big take a honeymoon there, or someone wants to adopt a kid and Morocco stands in for a war-torn African country. But while we're speculating, why not have some fun with it? Maybe someone mistakes Carrie for a legitimate journalist and sends her to cover something in a war zone. Morocco has stood in for the Middle East multiple times, like Body of Lies and Babel. Or maybe Miranda, in a fit of do-gooder-ism, goes to offer legal services to oppressed minorities or women, or Doctors Without Borders, for all I know. Or maybe Samantha moves her PR business to Dubai! Anything is possible!"

Well, while we can only speculate on the plot lines, we can report that the filming is taking place in Marrakesh. What is very pleasing to also report is that the cast and crew have taken local cultural sensitivities into account and have been dressing in a more restrained way than one might have expected! Our own fashion maven, Doris, says that while she found SJP's tee shirt a bit "naf", she particularly liked the white outfit and hat worn by Cynthia Nixon.

Sarah Jessica Parker (above) and Cynthia Nixon (below)

At this time there seems no possibility of seeing the crew in Fez, but we hear that as well as Marrakech, the SATC crew are expected to film in Erfoud and Rabat. We would love some pics from Erfoud.


Australians behaving badly?

Almost every responsible tourism organisation and guide book makes a point of stressing that while it is not necessary for women to cover their heads in Morocco, or for men to avoid wearing shorts (because they look to Moroccans like you just wandered out of the hammam), they do suggest "dressing modestly". As we saw in our previous story about Sex and the City, the cast and crew have indeed been dressing appropriately. It would appear that the same can not be said of a certain Australian on holiday in Agadir.

(Health warning: the following story comes from the UK tabloid, The Sun)

Aussie beauty Natalie Imbruglia was recently spotted wearing a skimpy orange swimsuit as she soaked up the sun while on a holiday in Morocco.

The singer-cum-model-cum-actress has left Britain for a week relaxing by the beach in Morocco.

Resting her stomach on the lounger, Natalie gave quite an eyeful of her assets to the world, reports The Sun.

And later, the ‘Neighbours’ star removed her bikini top for some more soaking up.

Oh dear. There are some photographs and out of respect to our readers we won't show them and we respectfully ask that our readers DO NOT supply any more photos! Doris, our fashion guru says that the bikini was a good fit and that our Natalie accessorised with a black Chanel handbag, Ray-Bans and some gold earrings. Very tasteful.

Hasna wins ‘Best Moroccan Artist’


Moroccan pop singer Hasna El Maghribia has accepted an award as the ‘best Moroccan artist’ in a ceremony presented by the Tunisian Cultural Ministry at a celebration sponsored by the Tunisian “Republic Newspaper.”

“There is nothing better for someone than to be awarded for the success she has accomplished, and I happy to be among the awarded stars,” said Hasna as she accepted the award.


Banzi blitzes World Music Awards



While we are in the world of music our final story comes from the 2009 Peoples Grammy Awards, where the Moroccan American Tarik Banzi,took home the award for the Best World Music Song of 2009.

The Oud player, composer and founder of the Al-Andalus Ensemble saw his music rise to the top of over 560,000 songs entered from 163 countries around the world in what is the world's largest Independent Music Awards.

The winning song, title track from the album "Alchemy" features Tarik's oud his wife, Julia Banzi, on guitar.

Faces in the Medina - Kerstin Brand

Kerstin Brand has had a long love affair with Morocco, and always dreamed of living here. Marrakech was her goal, but she thought she'd just better pop into Fez to make sure she didn't want to make her home here. And, well, she's still here!

The first time Kerstin stepped into Djmaa El-Fna, she was hooked. That was ten years ago, and she keeps coming back for more because, she says, there's always something to learn and she never gets tired of being in Morocco. Fez has bewitched her now because she likes the fact that there are no vehicles in the medina and she doesn't get the urge to leave every few days.

Kerstin is a talented woman. She speaks Swedish, German, English and basic French. She was in IT and then in pharmaceutical sales, but like many English people, has recently been made reduntant. This was just the opportunity she needed to make the break to Morocco.

Over the years, Kerstin gained a lot of experience travelling in Morocco. Naturally she gave advice to friends on what to see and where to go. Eventually she realised that there wasn't much information for people wanting to travel on a budget but without staying in dorms in backpacker places. Those in their 30s, or women travelling on their own, didn't seem to have many options. That's when the idea of Bare Minimum Travel was born - a website offering tailor-made trips for people wanting to stay somewhere clean and friendly at under 30 Euros a night.

Kerstin's big success so far has been organising a visit by a Finnish TV crew which involved not only finding hotels, but also helping them obtain filming permission and introducing them to her many contacts. She's also organised a group of 40 people to the Festival in the Desert near Timbuctoo.

While Kerstin is in Fez, she's working on building up her website and making new contacts, not only in the city but throughout the country. She loves meeting new people and says that if you see her in the medina, do make sure you say hello.

Faces in the Medina - Gail Leonard

Over the years there have been a lot of different people offering cooking lessons in Fez. Tourists, chefs and foodies have the city marked down as a "must visit" destination because of the wide range of culinary adventures available in and around the Fez Medina. Gail Leonard decided that what was needed was a little coordination and a way for intending visitors to book their culinary explorations in advance. The idea has grown into reality and Fez Food is up and running.

Recently The View from Fez, food editor, Marcel, caught up with Gail. Here is his report:

Gail Leonard, fabulously 40, previously ran a drug and alcohol agency in Yorkshire following a lot of research around the world, most notably 10 years in Berlin and a year in Tokyo whilst studying.

Loving the buzz of such extreme cities, she came to Fez for the first time in 2004 with her then partner. When I asked her "why Fez?" her eyes lit up.

"I Immediately fell in love with Fez because of the mystery and madness that the city offers at every single turn!".

Now embarking on a whole new adventure she has set up FezFood to promote cooking lessons and foodie adventures in the Fez region. What better way to access the local authentic culture, than by exploring the food and drinks that sustain it! Her first client is Clock Kitchen, café clock’s new cooking school, other ventures include trips to the Middle Atlas to hand roll couscous, tastings and tours of Meknes wineries and more delights are in progress. "I'm always on the lookout for people offering new culinary adventures in the region," Gail says.

Her favourite street food – chalouine (or hoummus quiche!) hard to find but worth it!
Favourite cafe – Café clock ("The staff do a great job at looking after my toddler Francesca whilst Mummy gets stuck into researching the cake!")
Favourite restaurant – Fes et gestes for great Moroccan fare
Favourite getaway – anywhere by the sea with great food!
Favourite dish to cook – tanjia.

What was so special about tanjia?

"The first time I felt properly embraced by my local community was the time I cooked tanjia. The whole street got involved in helping me with shopping, spices, translation at the community oven (Feran) and finally at the hammam furnace. Amazing!"

Given the forty-plus days in Fez, I could not avoid asking how she remains so cool and energtic.

"My secret for surviving the heat? Eating the best ice cream in Fez at The Villa and total immersion therapy (in Francesca’s princess paddling pool !)


Contact Gail at: fezfood@gmail.com

A Pool Party in the Fez Medina!

Riad Alkantara is opening its garden and swimming pool next Saturday July 18th from 19:30 for a barbecue party for only 150 dirhams. It is an opportunity for everyone to meet new friends. Don’t forget to bring your swimsuit! Towels will be provided.

Riad Alkantara ouvre son jardin et sa piscine aux amis qui veulent rencontrer d’autres amis le 18 Juillet à partir de 19 :30 pour seulement 150 dirhams. Un délicieux buffet vous attend au bord de la piscine. N’oubliez pas vos maillots de bain ! Les serviettes de bain seront mises à votre disposition.

Riad Alkantara inaugura su jardín y piscina el próximo Sábado 18 de Julio a partir de las 19:30 con una deliciosa barbacoa por solo 150 dirhams. Una estupenda oportunidad para conocer gente nueva. No os olvidéis el bañador ! No hace falta traer toalla.



Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Faces in the Medina - Tara Stevens

Tara - enjoying Fez magic

Like many people, Tara Stevens ended up visiting Fez "by accident". Originally from Wales, Tara had been working in Copenhagen as a copywriter in the advertising industry. The work was hard and being something of a workaholic she found herself working ridiculous hours.

"I suddenly realised that being at work at 3 in the morning was crazy so I decided to quit and write a travel guide book."

The chance came shortly after, when she stumbled across an advertisement calling for someone to write about Puerto Rico. That was back in 2000.

After completing the Adventure Guide to Puerto Rico, Tara headed to Barcelona where she based herself and began working as a freelance travel writer. Over time Tara found herself drawn more and more to writing about food. "Cuisine is a doorway to culture. Even if you can't speak a foreign language, food itself is a language."

In 2008 Tara attended the Hay Festival in Grenada and while chatting with Tahir Shah (The Caliph's House: A Year in Casablanca) he mentioned Café Clock in Fez and their camel burgers. That conversation brought Tara to Fez where she wrote "the camel burger" story for Conde Nast.

When Mike Richardson from Cafe Clock contacted her and suggested writing a "Café Clock" cookbook, Tara was hooked. Since then she has visited Fez five times and confesses to being enchanted. "It is a magical place and the food is more than just for eating - it is often prepared for a magical reason.

We look forward to her book and seeing just how long it will take for 'Fez magic" to convince this talented and vivacious woman that Fez is a superb place to live.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Another day at the Fez Festival of Sacred Music.

Souad Massi.

The concert featuring Algerian Souad Massi - "the Algerian Tracy Chapman" turned out to be a very pleasant and gentle acoustic affair, not exactly spiritual, but nevertheless enjoyable in a relaxed way.

Souad's songs have often been based on the frustrations of her country's young people. He career took off in Paris in 1999 after which she decided to remain in France.

Hélène and Catherine

June 2 dawned as a much cooler day and, thankfully, with a slight breeze. Many people took the opportunity to arrive at the Bab Makina early and socialize. Among them two friends visiting from Lyon, Hélène Pouilly and Catherine Diallo. Locals, Khalid el-Akkaqui and Wafae Nachite had managed to grab front row seats and Richard Bee was spotted by our Social and Fashion reporter Dominique Noycebytes moving forward to catch all the action. And yes, the effervescent Kleo, was once again seen in the right place at the right time with our favourite Aussi-import, Josephine.

Locals - Khalid el-Akkaqui and Wafae Nachite

Locals - Kleo and Josephine

All that glitters...

Dominique reports on fashion at the Fez Festival:

The silver accessory fashion craze reached new levels today with this wondrous silver bag, that ( much like a Russian doll) had another bag inside. Most "super-cool" male dresser today was Richard Bee, the only man I know who can make casual look zaz!

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news