Swine Flu (A/H1N1) deaths in Mecca - Update

While some media outlets had reported that a Moroccan woman had died from Swine flu while in Saudi Arabia, Moroccan authorities have contradicted the report, saying that there were no A/H1N1 death case reported among Moroccan pilgrims

Head of the Moroccan medical mission to the Holy city of Mecca, Dr. Fouad Bouchareb told reporters that a Moroccan woman, aged 75, died on November 9 in Medina of cardiac complications and arterial hypertension, from which she suffered for several years. He added that the Moroccan medical mission has vaccinated 1209 Moroccan pilgrims who were not immunized in Morocco against the H1N1 virus.

On Saturday he told the Moroccan Press Agency,MAP, that the Moroccan medical mission conducted an investigation into the story disseminated by some media reporting the death of a 75-year-old Moroccan woman from the H1N1 virus.

Several months ago, Arab health ministers met in Cairo to discuss the possibility of banning children under 12, adults over 65, pregnant women and people with chronic illnesses.

However, the Saudis didn't ban anybody from coming and left the responsibility to the pilgrims' countries of origin. In effect, officials issued guidelines only for people at risk.

Two days ago, Saudi Arabia's health minister, Dr. Abdullah Al-Rabeeah, gathered representatives to discuss efforts to detect the ailment.

"It would be nice to have more time to prepare [for the possibility of H1N1 spreading in Saudi Arabia] ahead of the hajj, but I am very satisfied with all the measures taken and have great confidence," he said before the meeting.

Al-Marghalani said the "safe weapon" for the kinds of H1N1 cases that resulted in the deaths is Tamiflu, the drug used to fight influenza.

"If we lose Tamiflu, we will lose the war. But Tamiflu is only effective in the first 48 hours of when the symptoms appear," he said.

Death of Peace Corps Volunteer

The Peace Corps volunteers and staff throughout Morocco have been shocked by the death of twenty-three year old So-Youn Kim. Her work at Tamagourte in the youth centre has been highly praised by those associated with her. And today, throughout Morocco, Peace Corps workers paused to remember and pay tribute to the young volunteer.

Back in the USA Director Aaron S. Williams echoed everyone's thoughts by saying. "
I am deeply saddened to report a respected member of our Peace Corps family in Morocco, Volunteer So-Youn Kim, unexpectedly passed away today after an illness.

So-Youn, 23, a native of San Francisco and a 2007 graduate of Stanford University, had been serving for one year as a Youth Development Volunteer in Tamagourte. Her primary assignment was in a youth center where she was involved in a wide range of activities in her dual role as English teacher and youth development worker.

Her secondary activities focused on helping the village of Tamagourte’s pottery cooperative and developing an apprenticeship program. She got her hands dirty both literally and figuratively with the lives, pottery and culture of her community. She loved to teach children, support the cooperative and respect the historic craft that is so firmly rooted in that region of Morocco.

So-Youn was a remarkable writer, a voracious reader, a tireless advocate and talented in many languages. Thoughtful and hopeful would be the best way to describe her Peace Corps Aspiration Statement and other communications she has shared."


The View from Fez offers their condolences to the family, friends and Peace Corps volunteers as they mourn the passing of this remarkable young woman.

Morocco - beware the cheap itineraries!

Recently The View from Fez decided to look at what travel agents were saying about visiting the Fez Medina. To our horror (disgust?) we discovered that many companies and internet sites were suggesting it is a "one day or half day destination"!

This is typical:

The Fez Medina

The narrow winding streets are a maze for the unwary, and taking a half or full day guided tour may be the best way to see all the sights the Fez medina has to offer on your holiday in Morocco.Traditional craftsmen still make and ply their wares in one room workshops, and overburdened donkeys are still the only form of transport that can be used in the Medina.

Given that the Fez Medina has over nine thousand alleys, hundreds of extraordinary buildings, superb madrassas, libraries and craft centres, such a claim as made on the website quoted above is downright misleading.

So if you are travelling to Morocco and your itineray says" Day 6 : FEZ

After breakfast, your day will be devoted to the visit of Fes, the Religious capital of the country : The Medieval medina with its attarine & Bouanania Medersas, the Nejjarine Fountain. The Moulay Idriss Mausoleum and the Quaraouine mosque. Moroccan lunch at a traditional restaurant in the medina. Afternoon , visit of Fes Jdid. Dinner & accommodation at the hotel."... it is time to have a long talk to your travel agent.

Fez, as the oldest intact medina on the planet, deserves more than a one day guided tour. This is a place to savour, to experience, to discover, bit by bit. There is music, food and Moroccan culture to be explored and the very minimum time should be a week.

Fez is a living working city - and fascinating

The use of a guide may give you a sense of the place, but in order to fully appreciate the medina, to shop without hassles and to discover both the fine cuisine and the delightful street food takes time.

There are other ways of seeing the Medina without guides. There are six thematic itineraries signposted through the medina, allowing you to visit the medina on your own according to your interests. Each of the themed excursions has a different color, have been You just have to follow signs of one color depending on the theme you have chosen.

Sitting in a cafe, watching the world go by, is a time honoured tradition in Fez and one not simply reserved for the locals. Yes, come to Fez, but take time to explore the city and you will be well rewarded.

Photo Essay - Moroccan B'stilla Recipe.

The View from Fez has had the pleasure in the last few weeks of hosting legendary young Australian chef Katerina Annels. While in Fez we sent her out on assignment to discover the traditional way to make b'stilla. This is one of the signature dishes of Morocco and as Katerina reports, it is relatively simple to make. Here is an excerpt of her report and her photographs. The full story can be seen on our View from Fez Photo Journal

While in Fez I have discovered waraka, a paper thin bread used for both savouries and sweets. Somewhat like filo ( if you use a few layers) - this stuff is fantastic! Experimenting with ways to use waraka (do i feel another article coming on?) I have decided that I like it better then filo, as it gives a beautiful crisp golden exterior when baked. Yum.

Imagine my delight when Thami, from Thami's restaurant, on learning of my quest to find alternative uses of waraka, offered to show me the process of making traditional B'stilla.

Waraka and almonds ready for b'stilla

I arrive early in the morning, Thami is out shopping, buying everthing fresh for that day. Hasania is in the kitchen preparing the vegetable dishes (before the meat arives). When Thami comes back from shopping I am greeted with a smile, a tour of the kitchen, a taste of everything that's going (cooked or not) and a big bag of spices, 'so I can cook good Moroccan food at home'. Next I am dragged down the street, sat down and given a bowl of heated preserved camel meat with eggs. Before I can take more than a bite (suprisingly edible) I am whisked back up the street again. All the niceties taken care of, we are ready to begin making the b'stilla.

A small handful of almonds is ground down to crumbs in an old brass mortar and pestle.

A handful of rice, and some pre-soaked raisins with turmeric and onions are added to the mix

...a dash of olive oil

Half an onion, finely chopped, a big pinch of cinamon, a tablespoon of icing-sugar

Some sauce from the vegetable tagine bubbling in the corner is added (water would do) and then an egg

Mixed together and fried on the flat grill. I guess that the chicken would be added here, for some reason, my limited language skills cannot discover, we are making one without chicken, or more traditionally, pigeon.

See the full recipe here on the View from Fez Photo Journal

Morocco's close ties with Spain

While Moroccan Arabic (Darija) is the common language of Moroccans, many speak at least one other language, usually French, Modern Standard Arabic, and perhaps a Berber language.

Judging by the success of language schools across the country, many people recognise the importance of learning or improving on their language skills, and Moroccans are very good at learning languages. There are nine American Language Centers in Morocco teaching English, and six Cervantes Centres for Spanish, as well as French Institutes in all major cities.

The Cervantes Centre in Fez not only offers lessons in Spanish, but has a large library and a wide cultural programme featuring films, plays, dance and music.

This week, Spain's Crown Prince Felipe was in Rabat to inaugurate the new facilities at the Cervantes Centre in the capital.

HRH Crown Prince Felipe of Spain

Prince Felipe emphasized the “enormous importance” his country places on its relations with Morocco, and he noted their common efforts in the fight against terrorism and against illegal immigration networks.

Felipe was accompanied by his wife, Princess Letizia, as well as by Prince Moulay Rachid, the brother of HRH King Mohammed VI of Morocco, and the two countries’ respective foreign ministers.

The Spanish prince emphasized the “excellent state of bilateral relations” that, in his judgment, translates into the “firm willingness to deal jointly with the challenges encountered on that road.”

“I’m referring to concrete questions of great concern, like the fight against terrorism – which relies on intense judicial and police cooperation between our two countries – or the common efforts against the tragedy of those who migrate in search of new living and work possibilities and fall into the hands of criminal networks that abuse their good faith,” the prince said.

Another of the areas of understanding between the two countries, Felipe noted, is the “dynamic” presence of Spanish companies in the neighboring country and the Moroccan community in Spain.

Marrakech Film Festival to screen 44 Korean films

Since the Marrakech International Film Festival began back in 2000 it has focused on the national cinemas of Italy, Egypt and Spain. This year, signaling the growing importance of Korean film and certainly spurred by recent successes such as Bong Joon-ho's "Mother - 2009" and Park Chan-wook's "Thirst", the festival turns its eyes to South Korea.

A record 44 Korean films will screen and in addition, representatives from Korean government organizations, the Korean film industry: producers, directors, actors and film festival delegates will all be in attendance.

Im Kwon-taek, the godfather of Korean cinema (pictured above) will present "Surrogate Mother" (1986), "Seopyeonjae" (1993) "Chihwaseon" ("Strikes of Fire" - 2002) and more; LEE Do-yong "The Oldest Son" (1984); LEE Chang-ho "The Man with Three Coffins" (1988); Jang Sun-woo "Lies" (1999) and other directors; Park Chan-wook "Thirst" (2009); Yang Ik-joon "Breathless" (2008); Jeon Soo-il "With a Girl of Black Soil" (2008); Lee Hae-joon "Castaway on the Moon" (2009);

Producers expected to attend include KIM Moo-ryeong ("Castaway on the Moon", 2008) and KIM Hyo-jeong ("Tokyo Taxi", 2006). For the fans, a number of Korean stars will also accompany their films: "Surrogate Mother"'s Kang Soo-yeon, "Peppermint Candy"'s Moon So-ri, "Castaway on the Moon"'s Jeong Ryeo-won, and PARK Chan-wook-directed "Thirst"'s Kim Ok-bin. Korean Film Council chairman CHO Hee-moon will also be present as well as well as Korean Film Archive Chairman, LEE Byeong-Hun.

Thirst

For those who are unfamiliar with Korean film, The View from Fez suggests you make an effort to see "Thirst". The story tells of a much admired and devoted priest from a small town who volunteers for a medical experiment which fails and turns him into a vampire. Physical and psychological changes lead to his affair with a wife of his childhood friend who is repressed and tired of her mundane life. The one-time priest falls deeper in despair and depravity. As things turn for worse, he struggles to maintain what’s left of his humanity. All good fun!

Riad Fes gains international recognition

Riad Fes in the Douh quarter of the Fez medina has recently been accepted into the worldwide, prestigious Relais & Chateaux collection of the world's finest restaurants and hotels.

There are only four other hotels in Morocco that have reached this standard: Dar Ahlam near Skoura, Ksar Char-Bagh in the Palmeraie of Marrakech, L'Heure Bleue in Essaouira and La Villa des Orangers in the Marrakech ville nouvelle.

Riad Fes has three distinctly different sections. The original house is a superb rendition of the traditional Fassi style. There's a new shop just off the central courtyard, and outside is the pool and garden.

the shop at Riad Fes

and the garden

The Andalous section of the Riad is modern, with sculpted plasterwork modeled on the Alhambra in Granada. There's a beautiful reflecting pool in the bar area.

the Andalous patio

On a recent visit, The View from Fez team was introduced to the newest section of the Riad, the Baroque patio. It's very different: traditional Moroccan architecture combined with baroque style. There are grey tadelakt walls, remarkable black zellij blended with veined black marble, crystal ceiling lights, candles and large ornate mirrors.

the new Baroque patio

Riad Fes has a very special offer of three nights for the price of two, from now until 15 December; from 5 January to 15 February and from 20 June to 31 August. To make a reservation, see the Riad Fes website, or book through Fez Riads.

Hammam Project in Fez

This week saw the gathering of specialists from across the world for a conference in Fez aimed at examining the sustainability of hammams in the Mediterranean region. The View from Fez reports.



Hammamed is a project co-ordinated by Oikodrom of the Vienna Institute for Urban Sustainability and underpinned by Euromed Heritage which is funded by the European Union. Partners include the University of Liverpool in the UK, the Institut Francais du Proche Orient in Syria and ADER, the Agency for the Dedensification and Rehabilitation of the Fez Medina.

The research questions asked by Hammamed are:
- What is the desired sustainable future for the neighbourhood hammam?
- How can an operating hammam initiate such a sustainable future within a human settlement?

In the initial case study that was started a couple of years ago, hammams in several Mediterranean countries were identified for research. Included were Cairo, Damascus, Constantine (Algeria), Istanbul, Gaza and the Seffarine hammam in Fez.

The whole Mediterranean region shares a common object of cultural value – the hammam, the public Turkish bath.

The hammam has very specific features which reflect its importance and call for its promotion among the public: it is an architectural legacy and a living cultural heritage and as such it combines tangible and intangible heritage; it is well embedded in urban communities, filling an important role for neighborhoods and, in many cases, for the Medina as a whole, and yet it runs the risk of disappearing. Not only does the hammam generally have what's termed tangible heritage in such aspects as its architecture and the conservation of it, the water supply and hygiene, but also intangible heritage as in its part in local history, the socio-economic aspects and gender participation.

The main aim of the Hammamed project is to raise awareness of the hammam as a common cultural heritage in the Mediterranean area and beyond, mostly through public awareness-raising activities, conferences and workshops, dissemination activities and specific actions for two selected hammams (Hammam Ammuna in Damascus and Hammam Seffarine in Fez). There was an exhibition in Damascus in March, to be followed by one in Fez next year.

Interestingly enough, it's only in Fez and Morocco in general that the hammam is still used on a regular basis. Use in other cities such as Damascus and Cairo has largely fallen away over the last generation or two. There were 60 working hammams in Damascus in 1940; now there are 16. The buildings have either fallen into disrepair or now have other functions.

Hammam Ammuna, Damascus

The ceiling at Hammam Ammuna, Damascus

Among the expected results of the project are social studies, rehabilitation design on an ecological basis, hammam and neighbourhood days in Mediterranean cities, an exhibition and a documentary film.

The target group will be the scientific community of hammam related disciplines, selected governmental agencies and local population (especially youth, students, and women) and stakeholder representatives (teachers and hammam staff).

The meeting in Fez this week brought together project partners and associated experts in the field of sociology, town-planning, rehabilitation, and business and water management in order to work out the best practices for safeguarding and revitalizing the hammam as a traditional institution in the Mediterranean region. The issue of water was particularly addressed - scarcity, quality, hygiene, supplying systems, etc. The sociological and cultural aspects related to the role of the hamman in the Mediterranean Medina and its contribution to civil society and urban landscape development was addressed; comparisons with new hammams were made, taking into consideration social, ecological, economical and architectural aspects. Also, meetings with managers and employees of working hammams were organised in order to compare methodologies of maintenance and business-plan implementation and management.

The Seffarine hammam
The hammam in Seffarine Square has been closed for renovation for some time now. The Hammamed project is not about funding restoration of such buildings, which in this case is being undertaken by the Habous, but it is about establishing a sustainable management plan for the hammam.

Plan of the Seffarine hammam

According to the University of Liverpool (who provided the plan above, and photographs below), the Seffarine Hammam "should be restored as one of the most interesting public baths in Fez, especially with regard to the undressing room of its historical section, as this is one of the rare meshlah of the city that still preserves the original layout and decorative features. It also displays the traditional Roman hypocaust heating system and the original furnace. Moreover, despite its state of deterioration, this hammam is still functioning, serving the local community on a daily basis [this was the case until its closure recently-TVFF]. The practice of going to the hammam is, in fact, still very lively in Morocco, in contrast with other Mediterranean areas. In particular, in Fez this is evident not only in poor areas, but also in recently developed wealthy quarters, where new hammams are still being built, in spite of the fact that the existing dwellings have their own private bathroom conveniences.

"Hammams remain one of the essential urban facilities of Moroccan cities, together with the medersa and the mosque. Moreover, as observed in the contemporary hammam visited in Fez Jdid, not only is the layout of new public structures based on the traditional axial typology of historical hammams, but also some traditional bathers' facilities have been retained, such as the original bucket system for collecting water. All this leads to the conclusion that a proper restoration of hammam Seffarine, which should assess two important issues related to smoke pollution caused by the use of wood chip in the furnace, and to the necessity of making the bath and its surroundings adequate to contemporary safety standards, would provide the collectivity with a totally efficient and sustainable structure.

"- Hammam Seffarine is an almost unique example of hammam in Fez consisting of two adjoining and independent baths: one assigned to women and one to men (this section has been added in more recent times).
- It is one of the rare public baths in Fez which still preserves the undressing room in its original layout and with its original decorative elements.

the undressing room at Seffarine Hammam

- It also preserves the traditional hypocaust heating system and the original furnace.
- Unlike the free-standing hammams of Turkey and Egypt, and in line with the rest of public baths in Fez, hammam Seffarine is adjacent to other buildings, in order to reduce heat loss through the walls.
- In contrast with Turkish and Egyptian hammams, the entrance of the case study is anonymous and does not bear any particular decoration or advertising sign. This is another characteristic of the hammams in Fez.
- Unlike Mameluk and Ottoman hammams, which are typified by the central organization of the bathing spaces, hammam Seffarine shows a linear and axial layout, as distinctive of the typology of public baths in Morocco.

the cold room, Seffarine hammam

the hot room, Seffarine hammam

The university identifies two areas where emergency action is called for:
- the roof problems where water drainage and leakage has contributed additional structural strain because water tanks were introduced
- the removal of all vegetation from the roof as the plants are penetrating the structure of the hammam.

Massage Training Session in Fez

Hot news from the hammam!

Having a traditional hammam is as much a part of visiting Fez as any other activity. It is also a particularly good way to get rid of all the stress and tension of travel and shopping.

Inside Riad Laaroussa is one off the most beautiful hammams - lovingly restored by Fred Sola. The original domed ceiling has been retained and augmented by rest rooms and a massage centre.

The massage centre at Riad Laaroussa

The massage is particularly popular with Riad Laaroussa guests but increasing also with visitors from other guest houses and hotels in and around Fez.

Fred Sola (pictured above) has plenty of reasons to be smiling. Not least of which was the opportunity to take advantage of the presence in Fez of top Australian remedial therapist, Katerina Annels. Kat was happy to oblige and give an intensive workshop and demonstration of remedial therapeutic massage to Fred's talented team.

Fatima-zohra, Katerina, Fatima-zohra, and Nezha

In particular Fred Sola was interested in adding Ka huna massage to the his team's skills. Ka huna, Kat explains as "ancient Polynesian massage techniques, and the most glorious full body, mind and soul massage you have ever had. It encourages emotional release through chakra clearing, each move covering the whole body, head to toe. The initial training for a Ka huna therapist consists of a three week intensive course followed by refresher and issue-specific training throughout the therapist's career. Fred's three beautiful hammam women didn't have the luxury of such a course but due to their existing skills, were quick to grasp the intention behind the Ka huna massage, allowing them to combine existing massage techniques with the new Ka huna moves. After receiving a massage from them at the end of the intensive, I am happy to say that many fully qualified massage therapists in Australia couldn't come close to the quality demonstrated by the Riad Laaroussa women here in Fez".

The essential info: hammam with eucalyptus traditional black soap and body scrub. 30 Euros.Relaxing Massage with essential oils. 30 Euros. Contact Riad Laaroussa at Tel.: +212 6 74 18 76 39. Email contact@riad-laaroussa.com or visit their website www.spalaaroussafez.com.

Moroccan Independence Day.

The late King Mohammed V returns from Madagascar

Today Morocco celebrates the 54th anniversary of the return of the late King Mohammed V from forced exile which heralded an era of freedom and independence after the struggle of the Throne and the people to achieve liberation from colonial rule.



For 43 years Morocco had been under French and Spanish occupation since the announcement in 1912 of the Protectorate. Moroccans achieved independence after a long and laborious resistance by the King and the people which lead to the exile of the late King Mohamed V and the royal family for about three years during which time they were in Madagascar. You can read more about this exile in our earlier story HERE

The liberation struggle was initiated by people from all regions of the Kingdom,and the colonial authorities were left in no doubt that any attack on the person of the Sovereign would not be tolerated . They expressed their overwhelming dedication and loyalty to the late King Mohammed V.

This was followed by the victorious return of the King to the country bringing with him the declaration of independence and the departure of the colonial powers.

Since then, Morocco has achieved great developments implementing projects in the economic, political, social, and cultural fields. Morocco continues to achieve sustained progress.

The View from Fez team offers its best wishes to His Majesty King Mohammed VI, His Royal Highness Crown Prince Moulay Hassan, Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Khadija, His Royal Highness Prince Moulay Rachid and all members of the Royal Family as well as all the Moroccan people with continuing development and progress.