New Yoga Classes in the Fez Medina

Yoga teacher Edna Vidal Ros 

Great news for local and visiting yoga enthusiasts - daily classes are now available in the Fez Medina from Monday to Saturday at 8 am  

Held at the boutique hotel Palais Amani, near the tanneries, the classes last for an hour and a quarter, and there is the possibility to stay for a 'de-tox' breakfast afterwards.

The teacher is Edna Vidal Ros, 27, who trained in yoga in Barcelona and India. "I was a ballet dancer from the sweet age of three, to the challenging age of 18," she says. "I had to give up due to an injury and, after years of searching for a new thing to fill the gap, I found yoga."

Edna took degrees in Event Management and International Finance, before switching to yoga. "I take the hatha/vinyasa approach, as I love adapting every practice to the people who are joining me that day. After all, our bodies are never the same and neither are our moods", she says. "I have worked with people of all ages, from relentless children to the dedicated elderly and absolutely adore the intimate, pure connections established with every soul that steps on a mat."

Edna invites you to join her at a class at Palais Amani.

Open Day on 23rd September at 8am:

Free introductory Amani Shala Yoga class on the rooftop, followed by a free detox breakfast afterwards in the gardens. Bookings essential: conciergerie@palaisamani.com


Essential Info: 

• The regular drop in rate is 250 dh per class. (Add 150 dh for detox breakfast).
• Locals rates and a September Special - any local can sign up at 150 dh per class. If they join a class during September, they can bring a friend for free. 
• Loyalty cards will soon be available online - 5 lessons for 1,000 dh, and 10 lessons for 1,500 dh. 
• Private classes available for 1 - 2 people at 500 dh per person  or for 3 - 4 people at 300 dh. (Add 150 dh per person for a detox breakfast.) 
• Yoga sessions on Mt Zalagh can be arranged on request. Contact Palais Amani for details. 

Further info and bookings: Palais Amani is at 12 Derb El Miter, Oued Zhoune, Blida, Fes Medina.  https://palaisamanifez.as.me/yoga or + 212 53 56 33 209. 

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Milestone for Fez Medina Children's Library

In January the Medina Children's Library will be two years old. In that time, more than 25,000 visits will have been made by local children to the small space off one of the main streets in the Fez Medina. It's the only children's library in the whole city. To keep the doors open, the Library is seeking donations.

Samia Bachroui, 23, has been working as a librarian for the past year.  She says, "I've seen the improvement in the children." Many visit regularly and Samia says, "their level of expression is better now."

Librarian Samia Bachroui reads to a visiting school group

The Library was founded in January 2014 by a group of friends who live in the Fez Medina, to encourage a love of reading among local children. It has books in Arabic, French and some in English. It is a non-profit association and depends entirely on private donations to cover the costs of books, librarian staffing, rent, and operating expenses.

One of the regular library users is Sabrine, who is 11 years old. "The Medina Children's Library is the first library I have ever been in. It is in my neighbourhood, so it is easy for me to be there every day. This library made me love reading and discover a lot of useful books."

The library holds regular story time activities, hosts visits from school classes, holds occasional craft workshops, and runs excursions to significant sites in the Fez medina, so local children can further discover the heritage of their ancient city.

Kawtar, who is 7 years old, visits the Library every day. "The library is my special place," she says. "I like to go to there because there are a lot of books that I like and a lot of activities like story time."

Samia has a BA in English Literature. She says, "When I was a child there was no opportunity to read books...The (Medina Children's) Library is very important to the local community. The children love the Library and the books we have. Parents trust us - when they send their child to the Library, they feel they are in a safe world."

The View From Fez is a sponsor of the Medina Children's Library, and encourages donations to this worthwhile cause. 100% of donations will go towards the Library. To make a donation via PayPal, please visit the Medina Children's Library website. CLICK HERE.

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Storm Cell Crosses the Fez Medina - Photo Essay

On Sunday evening at around 6 pm, a large storm cell passed over the Fez Medina. From the time the leading edge of the cell was spotted, to the time it vanished into the North East, was under an hour

The leading edge of the storm cell crosses the Medina

Apart from a brief period of high wind, there was little rain and a few lightning strikes. No damage from the wind appears to have occurred apart from a few ripped tarpaulins or sheet plastic on rooftop terraces.

The dramatic nature of the storm cell was enhanced by sudden shafts of sunlight illuminating sections of the Medina.

Click on images to enlarge

Rose Button reported the storm passing over Moulay Idriss and hitting much harder than in the Fez Medina: "We were in tornado like conditions. So much rain and winds were really strong and blew things off my terrace and blew up my steel umbrella. We have never seen anything like it before and it passed after an hour, and we lost the electrics for an hour or so. It was too crazy! I was glad when it ended.".

A storm cell is an air mass that contains up and down drafts in convective loops, moves and reacts as a single entity, and functions as the smallest unit of a storm-producing system - The American Heritage Science Dictionary

Photos: Sandy McCutcheon

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Medina Children's Library Open Day on Saturday

On Saturday the Medina Children's Library officially opens and you are invited! While enthusiastic children have been eagerly attending the small space for several weeks now, tomorrow the general public are invited to check it out between 12 PM to 5 PM 

American photographer Heather Binns shares her impressions of a recent visit.

Before the Prints for Prints/Peace Corps photography workshop kicked off in Outat El Haj, the Prints for Prints team spent a couple days in Fez. Several weeks before I left for Morocco, I connected with Cathy Bellafronto and she mentioned that a children’s library had just opened in Fez (in the Medina - old part of town). Books and Kids are two of my favorite things, so I knew I would make it a priority to visit the library. Before I left Portland, I popped in to Powell’s to pick up a few books to donate.

Cathy was out of town when I arrived in Fez, so I emailed the library and received a speedy response from Suzanna Clarke inviting me to visit the library. After a few emails back and forth, my foggy jet-lagged brain made the connection that Suzanna was the author of “A House in Fez” – a great book that was gifted to me by a good friend for my birthday. I highly recommend it to anyone visiting Fez – or renovating an old house!

The library is currently open 3 hours per day, mainly in the afternoon. (And all day on weekends.) I arranged to meet Suzanna on a chilly Thursday afternoon. We arrived earlier than the 4 pm opening time, since we had allowed for extra time to navigate the maze of the Medina. At 3.45 PM there was already a crowd of kids milling around the door. The library had only been open for a few weeks, but the word had clearly spread. In fact, the library had to hire a guardian to manage the door and keep order. Only 10 kids could be allowed in at a time due to space constraints and they could stay for an hour before the next group came in.

The library is a wonderfully cozy space, with comfy carpet and a space heater. The walls are lined with bookcases containing children’s books in English, French and Arabic. Arabic books are in the highest demand. I brought a few English books (including my favourite of all time – Where the Wild Things Are) but wished I had checked Powell’s for Arabic books as well.

Safae Lahjouji, the librarian, watches over the kids with gentle authority, occasionally stepping in to help a child pick out books or remind the spirited boy that books are for reading, not hitting his brother over the head with.

The majority of children are girls and sit together in small groups but remain very intent on their reading. I spent a huge amount of time in libraries growing up and it was really wonderful to see kids so interested in books and reading. There are usually 1-2 volunteer storytellers every day as well.

Plans are in the works to create a non-profit to manage donations and the administration of the library. The library hopes to increase its supply of Arabic books and potentially move to a bigger space once funds allow. (Editor's note - The Fez Association for the Children of the Medina is now official, and is on the lookout for partners for the library.)

You can find out more about the library on their facebook page: www.facebook.com/medinachildrenslibrary

And if you know anyone traveling to Fez, ask them to pack along a few children’s books to donate. A visit to the Children’s Medina Library is a wonderful and unique experience.

Please come to the Open Day at the Medina Children's Library, from Saturday noon to 5 PM. The library is at 41 Zkak Rouah, off the Ta'laa Sghira - close to Riad Laaroussa, and at the top of the street from Resto 7. 

Info: www.facebook.com/medinachildrenslibrary or medinachildrenslibrary@gmail.com
Phone: 06 60 12 44 40 or 06 77 31 39 04

Photos and text copyright 2015 Heather Binns. To see her website and blog, CLICK HERE. 

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A Photographic Adventure in the Fez Medina

The Photography Rally is a photo-based adventure that offers groups of participants the opportunity to explore the Fez Medina by matching target-locations with the photo provided

It aims to encourage people to see the Fez Medina with fresh eyes, and to share an experience of discovery. Led by local photographer, Omar Chennafi, this event is sponsored by the French Institute Fez as part of the Eighth Edition of the Recontre Internationale de la Photo de Fes.

When: Sunday December 7 at 10.30 AM
Where: Meet at Dar Batha, 15, Salaj Fez Medina
Info: CLICK HERE

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Moroccan Photo of the Day - Fez Medina

Photo of the Day is the early morning view over the Fez Medina by Suzanna Clarke 

"Going onto the terrace at any time of day reminds me of why we choose to live here," says Suzanna. "All you can hear are the birds singing, occasionally donkeys braying, the odd sheep bleating and the call to prayer. It's magic." 

(Click image to enlarge)

Suzanna Clarke is the Features editor of The View From Fez, and has been a professional photographer and writer for more than twenty years. 

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Moroccan Photo of the Day - Gate to the Fez Medina

Our photo of the day is taken by Abderrahim El Hassani - an unusual view of Fez's famous Bab Boujloud 

The View from Fez welcomes contributions for our photo of the day series. Our contact details can be found via link at the top right of this page.


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Veils and Turbans Exhibition in Fez

Tomorrow is the last day of the exhibition Veils and Turbans at the French Institute's Dar Batha. It's a must see for anyone who appreciates design, texture, fabric and cultural history writes Natasha Christov. 

Two words: dramatic and delicate. Michel Biehn’s latest exhibition, Veils and Turbans, unravels this seemingly dichotomous union within Islamic headdress and outerwear.

Soft, gauze-like fabrics in delicate cottons and silks drape from the 40-foot ceilings of the French Institute’s Dar Batha exhibition space, and the intricate designs and dye patterns transport visitors to a world of hidden identities, mysticism and exotic charm.

Featuring veils and turbans from Afghanistan, Azerbaijan, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan and Morocco, Biehn’s exhibition celebrates Islamic dress by dissecting its layers to reveal the fine artistic detail. Here, whisper-thin veils fringed with colourful beadwork and complex embroidery hang like t-shirts on a washing line, hinting at the utilitarian nature of these pieces.

Each item in Biehn’s exhibition is an artwork, and many have been painstakingly stitched, then layered to provide – in some instances – total coverage. Biehn’s selection of veils and turbans also gives visitors an insight into countries’ cultural nuances: for example, the niqab exhibited from Afghanistan in a beautiful cornflower blue leaves nothing uncovered – only a wide lattice-like stitch allows the wearer to see. Conversely, the women’s outerwear on display from Pakistan is made up of several different pieces in bold colours and embroidered designs that meet around the eyes.

Kelly-green and burnt orange fabrics with striking patterns separate the veils from the turbans, as if protecting the original wearers’ modesties. Biehn explains that the veil “protects the mystery of a woman ... whereas the turban is worn very differently. It symbolises potency”.

Turbans, including the classic Berber headdress seen in Morocco’s Saharan regions, can reach beyond six meters of fabric. Mohammed Khrou, 23, of Rissani, explains that these turbans provide respite from the harsh conditions of the Sahara, acting “like air-conditioning for your head and protecting your eyes from sandstorms”. Other turbans on display at Biehn’s exhibition are more ceremonial, featuring a taqiyah detailed with geometric embroidery, with a long cotton scarf sweeping dramatically around the head.

Michel Biehn’s exhibition is enlightening, and showcases how different Islamic cultures combine the beautiful intricacies of their countries’ designs and traditions to create their veils and turbans.

Veils and Turbans is on display at the French Institute’s Dar Batha tomorrow from 10 AM to 5 PM. Info: http://www.institutfrancaisfes.com

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The art of living in the Fez Medina - A Public Talk

Join Suzanna Clarke, author of A House in Fez, as she shares her experiences of living in and exploring the Fez Medina – where art, design, architecture, music and ceremony are an integral part of everyday life.

Suzanna has amusing stories to share about her experience of renovating a 300 year old house, as well as offering insights into the history and culture of this rich and vibrant city through words and photographs.

When: Tuesday February 26 at 6.15 PM
Where: ALIF Residence, 28 rue Mohamed Diouri, Ville Nouvelle, Fez.
(Opposite the American Language Center. Ask the security guards.) 

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Men at Work

When Derek Workman covered the Sufi Cultural Festival for The View From Fez, he took time off to wander the Medina to watch the artisans at work. Here are some of the photos he took.

Metal worker decorating a tray

Coiling dyed thread

Carving combs from cows horn

Rinsing clothes in the street of the dyers

Finishing leather in the Tanneries

Dying a jacket in the street of the dyers

Scraping a skin in the Tanneries

Knife sharpener

Herb seller

Knife and scissor maker

Scraping skins in the Tanneries

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National Geographic on Fez

The latest edition of National Geographic on line (http://natgeomusic.net) carries an extensive feature on Fez and its Sacred Music Festival, written by Evangeline Kim.

"Where but in Fes," asks Kim, "Morocco's renowned spiritual, cultural, and intellectual center so imbued with powerful Sufi saints' histories over 1200 years, could such an event take place?"

"Giant keyhole-arch palace gates, museum interiors, riad courtyards, and restaurants in the Medina burst with arabesque patterns in intricate mosaic zellij tile work, finessed plaster carvings, and interlacing polygonal geometric or flowering patterned cedar woodwork. Andalusian gardens bloom with fragrance in cooling foliage. By moments, an almost palpable crystalline light seems to illuminate the air while it materializes in the gentle yellow ochre shade covering palace walls and older buildings. Five times a day, polyphonies of the muezzin call to prayer roll across the city."

In two finely-crafted, in-depth articles, Kim gives an excellent overview of the Festival, from the afternoon concerts at the Batha Museum, to the evening events at Bab al Makina, as well as the Festival in the City concerts at Dar Tazi and Bab Boujloud (read the full article here).

It often seems that journalists covering the Festival attend a concert or two and then disappear to submit one short piece. But Ms Kim, it seems, not only explored the Festival and the city itself, but also took the time to meet local people and investigate local institutions.

TIJANI SUFI BROTHERHOOD

Cherif Brahim Tijani (photo: Evangeline Kim)

"Part of Morocco's great charm, interest and attraction lies with her people", explains Ms Kim. "We met the young scion of the great Tijani Brotherhood, Cherif Brahim Tijani. It was his great grand-father the venerable Cheikh Ahmed Tijani, who inspired the spread of Sufism in sub-Saharan Africa and all over the world.

Youssou N'Dour's concert was a tribute to this brotherhood. In his press conference, when urged by the Moroccan radio Chaine-Inter's incisive journalist/producer Aziz Hachimi, "Tell us in one word what Fes signifies for you, Mr. N'Dour? His answer: "Fes Tijani." And, in the medina neighborhood souks surrounding Cheikh Ahmed Tijani's mausoleum, business cards of the redolently aromatic Univers des Herbes (the local Berber pharmacy) and of a great traditional tailor of djellabas and robes, Abdelaziz Cohen, proudly proclaim their addresses as "next to Sidi Ahmed Tijani."

Cherif Brahim is an intriguing Sufi leader for the future. Although still young, he is well-versed in the cultural and spiritual history of the Tijani order, and quietly ponders his forthcoming responsibilities and hopes for Fes and Morocco. With a keen intellect and wisdom far beyond his age, he was in constant demand for interviews about his pride in the festival. He is well worth seeking out for greater knowledge about Sufism and its profound significance in Islam."

THE FES CRAFTS TRAINING & QUALIFICATION CENTRE
The National Geographic team also visited this Centre in Batha that was opened in 2009. Ms Kim reports:

"We met with the center's director, Ahmed Aboujaafar, whose enthusiastic and very careful management planning within the region's first apprenticeship program for artisans promises a greater, ensured socio-economic and cultural future for Fes and Morocco. The center has recently entered into a cultural exchange program with the UK under the auspices of Prince Charles. And will soon open another center in Casablanca. Mr.Aboujaafar has great hopes for and seeks to encourage increased international exchange programs.

The center was established to halt the decline in artisanal training since the beginning of the last century. Craftwork provides work and income to more than 53,000 artisans and a living directly or indirectly to more than 260,000 people in Fes, or 27 percent of the city's total population and 70 percent of the medina's population. It is a critical institution. To have visited the training ateliers and watched the crafts men and women at work was essential to a deeper appreciation of Fes' spiritual environment - especially during the festival.

According to Mr. Aboujaafar, a team of the center's master craftsmen of arabesque zellij, carved woodwork and plaster are already at work here in New York in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. In early November this year, the museum will unveil a whole Moroccan royal courtyard as centerpiece in the Islamic Arts halls. It will be breathtaking in visual splendor and the scope of its ingenuities, a true homage to the arts and culture of Fes." (See our story here.)

NEXT YEAR IN FEZ?
Ms Kim sums up her visit to Fez as follows:
"The mark of a superb festival must lie in its capacity to make one long to attend the next edition, to seek answers to lingering questions long after its conclusion - especially about Sufi symbolisms embedded in the ancient decorative arts of Fes. To wish to experience once again the extraordinary beauty of Fes' spiritual culture as it welcomes musicians and visitors from far and near, now remains part of a supreme memory."