BBC to Sell Lonely Planet?

Only a week ago, The View from Fez posted on Twitter about an opinion piece on the great blog  The Longest Way Home about Lonely Planet losing its way. Now comes news that the iconic guidebooks may be sold off by the present owners, the BBC. As Lonely Planet is the guide book most often used in Morocco, we are following this story with some interest

Dave, the author of the piece on The Longest Way Home, was making the valid point that Lonely Planet had lost its way and that the extremely useful travel forum, Thorn Tree was in melt down after being shut, reopened and then gutted. The wonderful Lonely Planet travel books, built up so lovingly over the years since the founding in 1972 by Tom and Maureen Wheeler, were sold to the BBC and that was the start of a slow deterioration. There had, as Dave pointed out, always been plenty of room to improve, but compared to other guide books Lonely Planet was still the best there was.

"When in 2007 the BBC Worldwide bought 75% of Lonely Planet I thought things were bound to get better. However things remained pretty much the same. Then in 2011 they bought the remaining 25% and things actually spiraled quite dramatically downwards."- Dave - The Longest Way Home

Yesterday travel bloggers and travel writers were reacting to a story that a Kentucky billionaire will buy a controlling stake in LP while BBC Worldwide will retain enough of a stake to maintain editorial control. It is expected that, barring any last minute glitches, the deal will be finalised sometime next week.

"We have been exploring strategic options for Lonely Planet for some time now but no deal has been done and we are not going to comment on speculation about its future" - BBC spokesman Philip Fleming

The potential buyer is said to be Kentucky billionaire Brad Kelley (pictured below in a screen shot from a WSJ documentary). Kelley made a fortune selling discount cigarettes before selling his company in 2001 for around $1 billion and is now one of the largest land owners and conservationists in United States.

Travel blog Skift reports that Mr Kelley is prepared to pay about $US100 million for a controlling stake in Lonely Planet.

BBC Worldwide's purchase of a majority stake in Lonely Planet in 2007 cost 88.5 million pounds. The deal proved controversial as critics argued it went far beyond any connection with the BBC's programming. In early 2011, BBC Worldwide handed over another 42.1 million pounds to take complete ownership of the group.

It is not clear what Mr Kelley intends to do with Lonely Planet if he secures a majority stake. The acquisition would add to an investment that the American businessman has in OutwildTV, a site that promotes video documentaries by travel writers, Skift reported.

The sale could have implications for Lonely Planet staff and for freelance travel writers. In the Melbourne offices of Lonely Planet rumours of a relocation had been circulating for weeks. ‘‘We're all terrified it's going to see LP move headquarters to the US.’’ A spokesperson for Lonely Planet in Melbourne would not discuss speculation of a sale of the business, but confirmed 12 jobs in the company’s cartography department would be cut in an unrelated restructuring process, due to ‘‘improved efficiencies in the way we prepare maps for publication’’.
‘‘These changes are part of Lonely Planet’s ongoing evolution from traditional publishing to multi-format publishing,’’ spokesman Adam Bennett said. ‘‘This process is still in train, and 12 members of the team are currently assessing their options, including redeployment opportunities where appropriate.’’

"90% of people The View from Fez photographed in a one hour period in the Talaa Sghira in Fez were carrying Lonely Planet - the other 10% were lost." - David Margan Australian TV journalist

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Ethical Travel and Food Writing ~ update

Following our popular story on unethical travel writing (see story here) we have this timely advice from the highly respected Alison Bing from Lonely Planet.

 Don’t act like a food critic

At New York’s Momofuku Noodle Bar, I observed a food blogger photographing dishes, taking notes at the table and loudly drawing comparisons to dishes by other chefs. This is a rookie mistake, guaranteeing a strained dining experience for everyone involved. Staff hover over your shoulders, with shaky hands and false cheer – forget getting a straight answer about which dishes are better than others. Dinner conversation is peppered with interruptions, introductions and quasi-interviews, and over-salted with interrogations about why you didn’t finish your garnish … or maybe that’s just the nervous chef, sweating into your food. Reviewing restaurants anonymously for Lonely Planet ensures I get treated like any other customer, which means I occasionally get hot dishes served cold, microwaved until molten or deep-fried twice (ouch) – but it sure beats the awkward alternative. And when that freshly baked moment of joy arrives on a platter, it’s a sincere expression of the cooks’ talent, the farmers’ diligence, your hosts’ generosity and a shared love of food that gathers us around tables, around the world.

Travel Writers Beware ~ a cautionary tale from Morocco

It is standard practise for reviewers to not reveal to a restaurant or hotel that they are doing a review. To do so negates the purpose of seeing the business as the clients they are writing for would. It is considered unethical - even more so if the motivation is to get a free meal, service or accommodation.

If a reviewer is a well known identity, then they often book under an assumed name and there are cases where they have even adopted disguises so a business does not know they are being reviewed.

It is the same story for the publishers of the better travel guides. They have clear ethical guidlines.

"They (our authors) don't take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so you can be sure that the advice you're given is impartial" - Lonely Planet

We will leave it to you to imagine our reaction when we came across the following quote in an article by a person purporting to be a travel writer. To compound matters, the article was syndicated on the website of a major guidebook company - and one that has very high ethical standards.

We will not shame the writer by disclosing his identity. Here is what he wrote about a hotel in Morocco...

Breakfast (a simple one I was told) was 17 Euros per person – which is roughly triple what a great breakfast costs at the cafe down the street. Even when I told them I was doing a review for a third party, their reaction was stolid – which on one hand I admire, but on the other was just such incredibly mercenary bad business practice that I’m certain my jaw dropped. Frankly, if someone tells me they are reviewing me – I would at least offer to provide them with complimentary breakfast so they could write about it (and a complimentary dinner for that matter) but these guys – no way.

If reviewers all acted like this, then the public's faith in reviewers would be lost. With the current controversy over fake reviews on Trip Advisor it is even more important that would-be reviewers maintain the highest standards.

New Edition of Lonely Planet Morocco

The release of a new guide book is aways good news for any tourist destination. It is doubly so when that destination is Morocco and the guide book is the Lonely Planet. Not only is Morocco one of Lonely Planet's top destinations, but over the years Lonely Planet has been the most popular guide book on the market (see our story here). The View from Fez team has been evaluating the new edition.

The tenth edition of Lonely Planet Morocco could not have come at a better time. As Ibn Warraq reported yesterday, (see story here) the tourism market is recovering. In addition the past couple of years have seen a great number of developments in Morocco and much has changed since previous editions.

Tony Wheeler, who founded Lonely Planet with his wife Maureen believed that "a great guide book should do three things: inform, educate and amuse". Happily, we can report that this latest edition does just that.

Those familiar with Lonely Planet will notice some changes in style and format. Gone is the rather plain "quick reference" section on the inside cover. In its place is a double page spread with essential sections of the book: "plan your trip", "on the road", "understand Morocco" and "survival guide". Each of the sections lists page numbers for its major contents. These sections are also colour coded so that flicking to each section is easier than in previous editions.

Plan your trip

This first section covers such things as the "18 top experiences". In the previous edition the reader was offered 25 highlights. One suspects that this reduction was brought about by budgetary constraints. In an odd twist the previous number one, the Fez Medina, has been relegated to number two behind Marrakesh's "Djemaa el-Fna street theatre".

There are other changes that appear to be a result of cost-cutting. The quality of the paper and the matt instead of glossy photographs are just two examples. However, the layout and basic information is all precise and quickly found. The "month by month" rundown is well thought out and the "suggested itineraries" are a good guide for first time visitors to Morocco and superior to those in the 9th edition.

Another change is the placement of general information for travellers. In the previous edition there were around sixty pages at the front of the book, covering a variety of topics from the environment through to advice for women travellers. In addition there was a "directory" at the end of the book. In the 10th edition most of this is now at the back of the book in the "survival section". In some cases the advice is in a more concise form.

On the road

This section contains all the essential information on various major destinations, starting with Marrakesh and Central Morocco rather than the previous entry point of Casablanca and the Central Coast.

The Marrakesh and Central Morocco entry was written by Alison Bing, who returns to the areas she has written about in the ninth edition. Bing knows her area extremely well and writes with authority and not a little wit. Her introduction to this chapter, however, is a rewrite of the previous edition. It is probably not such a bad thing, as her previous introduction was (and still is) well written!

An annoying thing about the new format are the lists of "five best" this or that. Our feeling is that it must have been restricting for the writers and there were may have been "words" exchanged with those back at Melbourne HQ.

The updated map of Central Morocco is a vast improvement and, like the map of Marrakesh, is much easier to read. There is also the welcome inclusion of a pull-out map of Marrakesh, but disappointingly, none for Tangier, Fez, Casablanca or Rabat.The writing about Marrakesh itself also contains much of the previous text, but thankfully refreshed in parts.

When it comes to riads and hotels the list appears more exhaustive and, as one would expect, there are some notable inclusions and omissions. Overall, it is a good snapshot of where to sleep and where to eat. One change is the dropping of the classification of hotels into budget, mid-range and top end. The new edition has a simple code beside each hotel with the number of Euro signs (€) denoting the price range.

The Atlantic Coast section of the book has had a major make-over. This is probably due to the fact that it has been researched and written by a new author - Helen Ranger - writer of the much in demand Fez Encounter. Ms Ranger is an experienced travel writer and it shows in the sections she has authored.

The information about the walking tour of Central Casablanca has been expanded and the maps have been improved.

One strange anomaly is the confusion over railway stations. Casablanca is served by two rail stations run by the national rail service, the ONCF. The main long haul station is Casa-Voyageurs, from which trains run south to Marrakech or El Jadida and north to Mohammedia and Rabat, and then on either to Tangier or Meknes, Fes, Taza and Oujda. A dedicated airport shuttle service to Mohammed V International Airport also has its primary in-city stop at this station, for connections on to further destinations. However none of the maps show Casa Voyageurs railway station. Casa Port train station - of less interest to travellers - while on the map, is not numbered with other transport services.

The Atlantic Coast coverage of this latest edition is more extensive and the attention to small details is impressive. For example,the bus to catch to get to Lixus is no longer numbers 4 or 5, but number 9. A small detail, but one that could make your trip to Lixus a little easier!

This section of the book includes Essaouira and again the updating of information is thorough. It is also pleasing to see that Ms Ranger has exploded the myths about Jimi Hendrix and his brief stay in Essaouira.

The Mediterranean and the Rif section was also authored by Helen Ranger and out of date information is gone and the coverage of the region much improved. The layout and information on trekking is well done, as is the attention to detail. The section on Tangier has captured the spirit of a city shrugging off its past and becoming an appealing destination for tourists.

Well known travel writer Paul Clammer, who was coordinating author of the 9th edition, returns to update the Imperial Cities, Middle Atlas and the East. Given the tourist boom in Fez and the range of new accommodation and restaurants, this update was much needed.  Clammer has done a good job on this, but because of the time lapse between research and publication, some details have already changed.

The Coordinating Author of this 10th edition  is James Bainbridge, who also contributed the Southern Morocco and Western Sahara update.  Again, all well done.

Understand Morocco &The Survival Guide

These two shorter sections not only have some valuable information, but have been set out in a way that makes them easy to read. One small lapse is in the language section where, unlike previous editions, the Moroccan numbers are missing the numerals between 10 and 20! Maybe the publishers are encouraging people to purchase the Lonely Planet Moroccan Phrase Book?

Our Verdict

There will always be those who like the older style of Lonely Planet guide book and for them, the changes in format and style will not be welcome. There is also the perennial problem alluded to earlier - that by the time any guide book reaches publication, it is already out of date.

Those quibbles aside, we think that Lonely Planet Morocco does its job well. It is easy to read; the maps are vastly better and the research in almost every region is impressive. The style of language retains that earthy flavour Lonely Planet is renowned for, ( which other guide book describes something as grotty?) but the general approach is a more mature one. If this is a recognition that not every traveller is a backpacker, then it is a step in the right direction.

Let's hope that those in Lonely Plant HQ will follow this with updated Encounter books for Fez and Marrakesh.



You can purchase by clicking image

Lonely Planet - a must have guide book for Morocco

Lonely Planet is the the most popular guide book for Morocco and now there is a new Moroccan edition available in the better book shops. The care and attention to detail that the authors have delivered means that this is once again the "must have" guide book for Morocco. The View from Fez team will do a full review of the book in the near future.

CLICK IMAGE TO ORDER

In addition the Lonely Planet website is a valuable source of information and articles on Morocco. A recent article by Stefanie Di Trocchio, for example, gives the following very handy hints to prepare the first-time visitor for a wonderful time in the country.

Moroccans are famously hospitable and love showing visitors their country. You’ll meet plenty of friendly folk who’ll ease your path, but these tips will make your trip even easier.

•   Go in spring when lots of Morocco is lush and green. Don’t underestimate the extremes of summer and winter – they can be brutal. Ramadan is an interesting time to travel, but be aware that many restaurants and cafes will be shut during the day. In 2011, Ramadan begins on 1 August and finishes on 30 August. The dates change from year to year, so check it out online (www.when-is.com/ramadan.asp) before you go.
•   A few words of basic Arabic will take you a long way. Try es salaam alaykum(hello, literally ‘peace be upon you’), ‘afak (please – it has a glottal stop before it, like the sound between the vowels in ‘uh-oh’. If you’re talking to a woman it’s ‘afik; to a group, say ‘afakum) and shukran bezzef (thank you very much) for starters.
•   Stay in a riad – a traditional Moroccan house built around an internal garden.Marrakesh, Fes and Essaouria are classic riad destinations.  Check out Lonely Planet Hotels & Hostels for recommendations.
•  Load up your pockets with small change. Tipping is an integral part of Moroccan life, and a few dirham for a service willingly rendered can make life a lot easier. Tipping between 5% and 10% of a restaurant bill is appropriate. Also tip taxis, guides and small boys who help you find your way out of the complex maze of streets in the old parts of town.
•   Don’t engage a faux guide (false guide) for the day. They’re illegal. Engage an official tourist guide through a tourist office instead.
•   Petit and grand taxis are a great way to get around, but be prepared to wait – grand taxis won’t leave until all six cramped places are full. If you’re a woman travelling alone in a grand taxi, it’s a good idea to buy the two places in front for yourself.
•   Treat bargaining in souks as a friendly game. It’s an intrinsic part of the culture and is always expected of you, so just ignore the first price a merchant puts forward.
•   If you’re offered a mint tea by a local, sit down to enjoy. Mint tea is the hallmark of Moroccan hospitality, and it’s impolite to refuse it. A sit-down tea session takes about half an hour.
•   If you’re a woman travelling alone, try to ignore unwanted attention. You’ll hear cries of gazelle! and perhaps even get the odd marriage proposal, but the best thing to do is to avoid eye contact. If it persists, threaten police involvement. It’s surprisingly effective.

Not all guide books are created equal - opinion

In our yearly update on guide books, Ibn Warraq takes a look at two players in the market. As he discovered, not all guide books are created equal.

There can be little argument that if it were a beauty contest, then the DK Eyewitness Travel Morocco guide would walk away with the winner's sash. Its layout is artfully scattered with photographs, drawings and maps.  However, beauty can sometimes be skin deep.



When reviewing the guide, The Independent newspaper was lavish in its praise saying "No other guide whets your appetite quite like this one." It certainly does that. But having whetted your appetite, it fails to satisfy. Simply put, the content is wafer thin.

The positioning of the Eyewitness guides has always been about photographs and illustrations, and, as I said in  my introduction, it is great to look at - at first glance.  But looking closer, it soon becomes clear that much is mere decoration and much of it bland at that. Do we really need a picture of a plane landing at a regional airport, an ambulance, a ferry in the Straits of Gibraltar, a photo of an ATM and a tube of mosquito repellent? I could go on... The photographs are hardly stunning. Yes, I hear you say, but it is not trying to be an arty publication; true, true. But a photo of the inside of Agadir airport has to have something going for it.

None of this would matter, if the written content were up to scratch and up to date. This is where the Eyewitness guide falls down badly.A careful reading of guide is an interesting experience. There is something in the tone... Then it comes to me. The soulless prose is not an attempt to appear authoritative or dispassionate. It is a product of having been translated from the French.The result is a text that comes awkwardly off the page is is without a sense of personality.

The restaurant listings are sparse and include few of the more interesting eating places. For example, in Tangier there is no mention of wonderful restaurants such as Restaurant Le Nabab in the Kasbah and Les Passagers de Tangier, overlooking the Grand Socco. However, the guide does list the delightful Tanja Restaurant. And so it goes. In Chefchaouen, Fez, Casablanca, Marrakech and Essaouira, it lists some eateries of dubious quality and misses some of the best that Morocco has to offer.

When it comes to accommodation, the Eyewitness guide again fails to deliver. That it could list the Medina of Fez accommodation and include only four or five dars or riads is simply puzzling. This was not about leaving out the more expensive luxury riads;  they also listed few of the Medina's mid and low range accommodation. Another example, which is truly hard to understand is the failure in Ouzazarte to list one of the oldest and best places to stay - Dar Daif, that has been in business for more than twenty years. Again it was the same throughout the kingdom. Tangier to Tetouan, Marrakech to Mezouga, there are great gaps in what is available.

Factual information about towns is generally fine, though not extensive. Where the guide does score points is in the interesting and detailed explanation of places such as the Bou Inania Medersa. The artwork, diagrams and photographs all combine to provide you with a really good sense of what to look for. The entry fee is not mentioned.

Temple wall at Lixus showing Roman construction on top of larger Carthginian building blocks

However, the entry on the fascinating archaeological site at Lixus mentions the Phoenicians and then skips the  Carthaginians altogether, before coming to the Romans. It may seem a petty detail, but this basic historical omission detracts from the real appreciation of the extraordinary ruins on display.

So, summing up, while the Eyewitness Travel guide may be pleasing on the eye, it lacks the depth that should enhance your trip to Morocco.




 The Rough Guide to Morocco is a very different beast! Big on words, sparse on photographs. Yes, it is a little heavy to lug around all day, but it has far more information than its competitor above. There is good meaty stuff here, food for thought and inspiration to plan your days in Morocco. The writing is engaging and not without a sense of humour. That is not to say it is without problems. There is no such thing as the perfect guide book.  It is also, I suspect, what they call in the trade, as a "desk job" - that is to say, that much of the research has been done in the office, rather than on the ground.

The Rough Guide is in desperate need of feet on the ground to update many of the entries and include new venues. There are numerous examples of bars, hotels, accommodation and restaurants that have been closed for some time. In the case of the kosher restaurant in Fez, for example, it's been closed for around four years.

Our research at The View from Fez over time has shown that Lonely Planet guides are still the preferred reading for the majority off people visiting Morocco. I remember a couple of years ago when we did a survey, our travel reporter, David Margan had this to say:  "90% of people Samir photographed in a one hour period in the Talaa Sghira in Fez were carrying Lonely Planet - the other 10% were lost."

Marrakech on your iPhone

For the last few months, The View from Fez has been road-testing the various city guides available as apps for the iPhone. There are several on the market and one clear leader. The Marrakech Travel GuideBy Etips is okay, but a little clunky. However, although slightly more expensive, top of the list is the Lonely Planet app for Marrakesh.

Unfortunately there is still no digital version of the great Fez Encounter, however Marrakech has been available for a while. Apart from a rather serious glich with the telephone numbers not being updated after Morocco changed its phone system, the guide is a superb companion for a trip to the 'kech. If you are confused by the phone number issue, see our easy to follow guide here: Morocco Phone Numbers

We have used the guide extensively and found:

(1) It is very easy to use – swipe to scroll through a full table of contents, dip into sections, and turn pages with a flick of your finger.

(2) With good offline maps there’s no need to go online to access our detailed street maps, fully retooled for the iPhone with location awareness, multi-touch controls, full-colour styling and six-level zoom.

(3) There are scores of geo-coded points-of-interest (POIs)arranged by proximity, category, preferences or favourites. You simply tap to visit the website, or place a direct call (having checked the number!).

(4) text search – whether you’re into ‘live music' or ‘fine dining’, every article and POI in your guidebook is text-searchable.

(5) location-based navigation – plot your location in real time on our interactive maps, exploring back streets and hidden treasures with no danger of losing your way.

(6) personalisation – tailor your City Guide to your tastes by tagging the best POIs as ‘favourites’.

(7) money saving – forget roaming costs, the app is designed for offline use, and only take up the room of an average album on your iPod.

Overall, we were very happy with this app and found it easy to use and good value for money. To purchase the app, go to "App Store" on your phone and select "search" then type in "Lonely Planet Marrakesh City Guide". Too easy!

Now, dear Lonely Planet.... we would like a city guide app for Fez.

A Guide to Moroccan Cuisine

It is not very often that The View from Fez takes issue with Lonely Planet. Our survey of tourists showed that the LP Morocco Guide and city guides such as Fez Encounter are the favoured guide books of most travellers. However, a recent online article featured on Lonely Planet’s website did raise some eyebrows and generated several emails asking about the odd tone, inaccurate information and glaring omissions. The article was headed “Top 10 tips for devouring Moroccan cuisine”. Ibn Warraq delves deeper:

Some people just love to make lists; “ten of this”, “the best twenty of that”. However, this list is rather confused and desperately in need of a revamp. The article suggested it was offering “the top ten things that foodies should know to get the most out of culinary Morocco.” At first glance the focus appeared to be on Marrakech – “ Even atheists find foodie religion in Marrakesh, where the dishes keep coming until you protest ’Alhamdulillah‘, or ‘Praise be to God’. “

But then the article talked about b’stilla which is not a Marrakech specialty, but probably the most famous dish from Fez. The Marrakech specialty using the special b'stilla pastry is trid (layers of soft waraka pastry with lamb and spices ) which has its origins in an ancient Amazigh (Berber) recipe found in many remote villages. You can get some of the best trid at Dar Zellij but it is wise to order it in advance when you make your booking.

CULINARY HISTORY

The article carries a bold claim that Moroccans have “hand-picked Spain’s favourite ingredients”. This is a myth that is far from the truth. Many people think that due to the fact Morocco was in French and Spanish possession for periods in the 19th and 20th centuries, Moroccan cuisine has been heavily influenced by the French and the Spanish. While some ideas have been shared, its culinary culture traces its roots firmly to the indigenous Berbers and Arabs, who invaded the land in the 7th century CE.

Fruits and vegetables have always been grown and fish and seafood are plentiful due to the long coastline, while Morocco's inland environment has always been perfect for the raising of large flocks of sheep and goats. Many spices such as cumin, paprika and turmeric were introduced by the Arabs as was their tradition of cooking meat with fruit such as dates, raisins and figs.

This is a region marked by geographic, political, social, economic and cultural diversity, and the cuisine and the culinary style and art of North Africa are also as diverse as the land, its people and its history. The roots to North African cuisine can be traced back over 2000 years, with that of ancient Egypt covering a span of over three thousand years.

Over several centuries traders, travellers, invaders, slaves, migrants and immigrants all have influenced the cuisine of North Africa. The Phoenicians of the 1st century brought sausages, the Carthaginians introduced wheat and its by product, semolina. The Berbers adapted this into couscous, one of the main staples. Olives and olive oil were introduced before the arrival of the Romans. From the 7th century onwards, the Arabs introduced a variety of spices like saffron, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger and cloves, which contributed to and influenced the culinary culture of North Africa. The Ottoman Turks brought sweet pastries and other bakery products, and from the New World, North Africa got potatoes, tomatoes, zucchini and chili peppers.

The cuisine of the Maghreb is primarily a mixture of Berber and Arab culinary traditions, with some European and Jewish influences and, contrary to the Lonely Planet article, I would say there is a good case that Moroccan cuisine made its way to Spain rather than the other way around.

VEGETARIANS

Vegetarians, as the article notes, are well catered for, but far more than is suggested. Think, loubia (spiced beans) fuul (spiced broadbeans), lentils, fried aubergines/peppers, all of which add to vegetarian options. And for dessert, the traditional sliced oranges with cinnamon is a good choice. A walk through the souq will amaze the visitor with the fabulous array of vegetables, fruit, dried fruit and nuts and soft white cheese for self-caterers or for snacking vegetarians. Because the produce is so fresh and seasonal, the varieties on offer can and do change week by week.

FISH

There is no mention at all in the article of another important Moroccan traditional food group – fish. Not only is Morocco the world’s major producer of sardines, the fresh seafood is superb and varied (I suggest you try some rolled in chermoula and fried). And of course there are the famous oysters from Oualidia. Essaouira is renowned for its portside fish barbeques and in its restaurants (I suggest you check out Taros in Place Moulay Hassan), cold seafood salads drizzled with argan oil.

WINES

Then there are the Moroccan wines. While the article mentions some of the better labels, it omits the more recent labels such as Volubilis, Eclipse and Halana. The famous Moroccan gris wines are not even mentioned! Other favourites include Médaillon, Les Coteaux de L’Atlas and the sometimes hard to find Mogador wines. If you are in Marrakech or Essaouira I suggest you visit the producers of Gazelle de Mogador, the Domaines Du Val D’Argan. This winery is just 30k from Essaouira and produces some of the best wines in Morocco. It was established in 1994 by the current owner, Charles Mélia. He and his employees only speak French. They have over 900 hectolitres of wine, which is equal to about 120,000 bottles.

STREET FOOD

One word of caution about the street food: yes, it is safer and better than almost any of the tourist “palace restaurants”, but with the svenge (fried doughnuts) and mekouda (potato fritters), it is wise to check out that the oil used for cooking is fresh.

COOKING LESSONS

The article mentions my friend Lahcen Beqqi, but do take note, Lahcen is in Fez, not Marrakech. Also in Fez there is now a fierce competition in culinary tours and cooking lessons. Fez Foods has become very popular with their gastronomic tours to olive and wine producers, their hands-on couscous rolling, as well a remarkable experience where you get to make a tangia at the butcher's on the street, take it to the ferran (bakery) to slow-cook for 6 hours and then eat!

Of course, if you get invited to eat with a family, you can be in for anything from superb to woeful because, as is true in all parts of the world, not all cooks are equal! That said, I am not a great couscous fan (you can get too much of a good thing), but one of the best meals I ever had was a couscous with chilli and a little bit of meat, with fresh (unpasteurised) buttermilk poured over it, in a family gite high in the Valley of the Roses.

B’saha – Ibn Warraq

PS If you are looking for fine food in Fez, take a look at our updated guide here.

The View from Fez Twitter Competition !

As part of our fifth birthday celebrations, The View from Fez is running a Twitter competition! It is dead easy to enter.

Send your suggested caption

If you are already on Twitter, visit "The View from Fez Twitter Competition:" at http://bit.ly/ciGZfg. Take a look at the photograph and all the entries then send a caption suggestion for the photograph. Send your tweet reply with the hash tag: #feztwitter and we will announce the winner during our birthday celebrations.

The winner will receive a copy of the essential guide to Fez; Fez Encounter and the Lonely Planet Morocco guide.

If you don't have a free twitter account, go to http://twitter.com/theviewfromfez and sign up.

Remember, you don't have to send it to us @theviewfromfez. Simply write your caption and add the hash tag #feztwitter.

The View from Fez on Lonely Planet

The View from Fez blog is enjoying huge success. The team is delighted to announce that our posts now appear on the Lonely Planet website as one of the well-known guidebook company's favourite blogs. That's pretty good news for our hard-working team and for Moroccan tourism!


You can visit us at Lonely Planet here.

As we mentioned in our article in April 2007, LP remains the most popular guidebook to Morocco and Fez - most tourists seem to be carrying one! (See story here: Lonely Planet's Morocco)


But it's not only LP. We've also just been invited to be part of Globalpost, which is a relatively new (launched in January) international news organisation that's getting around 300 000 visitors per month, and around 1.1 million page views. And we're on Toot, the Arabic news organisation. You can follow The View from Fez on Twitter, too.

How many streets are in the Fez Medina?

They warned us a thousand times as we entered the ancient medina in Fez: do not take your eyes off the rest of the group. Otherwise, a 9th-century maze of 12,000 lanes, alleyways and dead-end streets would swallow us up, and no one - not even our omnipresent, all-knowing tour guides - would know where to find us. - Sarah Maguire, Sydney Morning Herald

Photo: Suzanna Clarke

"There are more than 9000 narrow streets in old Fes creating a maize that you are bound to get totally lost in. It's useful to get a guide at least for a day." - About.com

"Fes el Bali contains more than 9500 alleys and lanes" - Frommer's Morocco

"Classé au patrimoine mondial de l'Unesco, Fès el Bali regorge de monuments et de lieux historiques éparpillés dans les 9500 ruelles de la médina." - linternaute.com

How many streets and alleyways are there in the Fez Medina? It is an interesting question that does not appear to have a definitive answer. The most quoted numbers in the better guide books are 9000 and 9500 but could it simply be an urban myth that has turned into fact by repetition?

Photo: Suzanna Clarke

Does it matter? Well, that is up to you to decide. In the meantime, your challange to day, should you choose to accept it, is to go out into the Medina and start counting. Get back to us when you have completed the task.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Books about Morocco - updated.

Our list of essential reading before visiting Morocco has been updated. There is also a quick link in the sidebar labels list.

You will find the updated list here: Morocco - Essential Reading.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Essential reading list - Fez & Morocco

The View from Fez gets a lot of enquiries about what books to read before coming to Morocco. So we have decided to make up a suggested reading list of books that we and others have found invaluable. If you wish to purchase a book simply click on the linked book title

The novel is a rare example of contemporary English fiction drawing on traditional Moroccan folklore. Written in gripping English prose fused with Arabic words, the novel gives an authentic insight into a Westerner’s experience of modern Moroccan society, whilst simultaneously exposing the reader to the country’s rich cultural history by weaving classic Moroccan folk takes and the mysteries of Sufism into its fabric. The book not only explores the point where East and West merge, but the collision of the human world with the world of the djinns – mysterious shape-shifting creatures of an unseen realm.

Through the Peacock Gate takes you on the journey of a foreigner in Morocco, whose unexpected infatuation leads him into the very heart of the Sufi mystical experience. His descent into madness is exacerbated by his guilt over a tragedy in his past. As he recovers, he is forced to confront a female djinn during a Sufi ceremony in an encounter that could once again tip him back into insanity.

The novel is a rare example of contemporary English fiction drawing on traditional Moroccan folklore. Written in gripping English prose fused with Arabic words, the novel gives an authentic insight into a Westerner’s experience of modern Moroccan society, whilst simultaneously exposing the reader to the country’s rich cultural history by weaving classic Moroccan folk takes and the mysteries of Sufism into its fabric. The book not only explores the point where East and West merge, but the collision of the human world with the world of the djinns – mysterious shape-shifting creatures of an unseen realm.

“Sandy McCutcheon’s latest novel Through the Peacock Gate is the kind of book those of us who live between Occident and Orient have waited an entire lifetime to read. The interweaving layers, the quality of the prose and, most of all, the raw bedrock of cultural knowledge on which it is founded, makes this an invaluable handbook to the mysteries and complexities of Eastern lore. Its pages conjure the mesmerising, magical heart of secret Morocco.”
Tahir Shah, author of The Caliph’s House

The novel set in Fez is essential reading!

Read review here : First review

Where to Buy a copy:
The Arabic Language Institute in Fez,
2 Rue Ahmed Hiba, Fes, Ville Nouvelle 30000
Beacon Books (UK)
Amazon (USA)
Amazon (AUS)

Morocco (Country Guide)

Simply the best and most up to date guide book available.

















Fez Encounter

Discover twice the city in half the time with this is essential pocket sized guide book for Fez

…full-color pull-out map to help you navigate the medina with ease
…our resident author, Helen Ranger, recommends the best sights, restaurants, shops and entertainment
…unique itineraries and highlights to make the most of a short break in the world's last intact Medina.
…local experts reveal Fez’s secrets: from Si Mohammed el-Amrani on medicinal herbs to Dr. Armand Guigui on Jewish heritage in the Mellah.






Moroccan Arabic: Lonely Planet Phrasebook

Don't leave home without it! It is very easy to use and the locals will appreciate even a few well chosen phrases.















Morocco - Culture Smart!
a quick guide to customs and etiquette

Jillian York's insiders view of how not to mess things up! A sharp guide for the unwary.



A House in Fez: Building a Life in the Ancient Heart of Morocco

Suzanna Clarke's bestseller is a real insight into life in Fez - not just about restoration but wonderful and heart-warming descriptions of everyday life in the Medina. There are English, Australian, American and Korean editions.

Please note! There is a new book out called The House in Fez - the title capitalising on the popularity of A House in Fez - A bit cheeky and it is a romance and nothing like Suzanna Clarke's book.












Lords of the Atlas: The Rise and Fall of the House of Glaoua, 1893-1956

British author Gavin Maxwell (Ring of Bright Water) details the daily life, customs, and rituals in pre-independence Morocco and of recounts the rise and fall of El Hadj T'hani El Glaoui, the legendary tribal warlord through whom the French ruled one of their prize colonies in North Africa. He shows how the blend of Berber, Arab, and black African races created an extraordinary cultural mosaic and explains how the French colonialists recruited the Atlas Mountain tribal warlords to subdue the other tribes. As the chief beneficiary of this policy, El Glaoui was able to rule most of southern Morocco in an absolute fashion, until Morocco's independence from France in 1956 brought an end to the rule of a very colorful warlord. The book contains many superb color photographs that enhance Maxwell's lively narrative.




Fez: City of Islam - Titus Burkhardt

Fez: City of Islam is undoubtedly one of Titus Burckhardt's masterpieces. It conveys a profound understanding of the sacred roots that nourish Islamic culture and civilisation. As a young man in the 1930s, Burckhardt spent some years in Morocco where he became acquainted with several remarkable representatives of the spiritual heritage of the Maghreb. Although he committed much of this experience to writing, it was not until the 1950s that these writings were developed into a book. In Fez: City of Islam, Burckhardt writes of the history of a people and their religion and history that was often violent, often heroic and sometimes holy. The book relates the teachings, parables and miracles of the saints of many centuries and demonstrates not only the arts and crafts of Islamic civilisation, but also its sciences and administrative skills. Burckhardt's unique black and white photographs from the 1930s are included. In addition 41 new colour illustrations have been specially selected to enhance Burckhardt's originals. Here, text and illustrations come together to provide an insight into the way the life of a people can be transformed at every level by a religious tradition.



Dreams Of Trespass: Tales Of A Harem Girlhood

Fatima Mernissi's rich, magical and absorbing growing-up tale set in a little-known culture reflects many universals about women. The setting is a "domestic harem"in the 1940s city of Fez, where an extended family arrangement keeps the women mostly apart from society, as opposed to the more stereotypical "imperial harem," which historically provided sex for sultans and other powerful court officials. Moroccan sociologist Mernissi ( Islam and Democracy ) charts the changing social and political frontiers and limns the personalities and quirks of her world.


Fiction & Literature




Spider's House: A Novel

This is the classic by Paul Bowles. A must read. The dilemma of the outsider in an alien society, and the gap in understanding between cultures, recurrent themes of Paul Bowles's writings, are dramatized with brutal honesty in this novel set in Fez, Morocco, during that country's 1954 nationalist uprising. Totally relevant to today's political situation in the Middle East and elsewhere, richly descriptive of its setting, and uncompromising in its characterizations, The Spider's House is perhaps Bowles's best, most beautifully subtle novel.









The Cobbler's Apprentice

Sandy McCutcheon's explosive international thriller contains some wonderfully evocative scenes in Fez.

''The best of the current crop of terrorist thrillers ... This intelligent novel blends the machinations of the spy novel with the action and geopolitics of the international thriller to produce a credible and truly scary read ... This is McCutcheon's finest novel to date.'Jeff Popple (Canberra Times)

'This book is nothing less than a rip-roaring action thriller with politicians and thugs, scientists and spies — and an unnerving sense of the possible.' Samela Harris (Adelaide Advertiser)

'It's a gripping read because of its eerie prescience. But in McCutcheon's professional hands, it will also have you reading on the edge of your seats.' Jan Hallam (Sunday Times)

Secret Son

These two books by the wonderful author Laila Lalami are highly recomended!
















Hope and Other Dangerous Pursuits



















The Caliph's House: A Year in Casablanca
Tahir Shah's bestseller tells of his adventures, trials and tribulations when he purchases and old house in Casablanca.







Other Moroccan authors.

Tahar Ben Jelloun
This Blinding Absence of Light Leaving Tangier: A Novel The Sand Child

Mohammed Choukri

For Bread Alone
Streetwise
In Tangier

Leila Abouzeid
Year of the Elephant: A Moroccan Woman's Journey Toward Independence

Anthology translated by Paul Bowles
Five Eyes: Stories by Abdeslam Boulaich, Mohamed Choukri, Larbi Layachi, Mohammed Mrabet, Ahmed Yacoubi.

See other suggestions from readers in the comments below.To purchase a book, simply click on the book title.

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Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news