Australians Get a Taste of Morocco

The Embassy of the Kingdom of Morocco in Canberra has just launched the first Festival of Moroccan Gastronomy at the Hyatt hotel. The public is invited, for ten days, to discover the flavours of the culinary heritage of the Kingdom

Organized as part of the festivities marking the 19th anniversary of the Throne Day, the event "The Flavors of Morocco " was inaugurated by the Ambassador of His Majesty the King in Australia, Karim Medrek and the Minister of Multicultural Affairs, Rachel Stephen Smith, in the presence of several heads of diplomatic missions accredited to Canberra and a host of personalities from the world of politics, culture, and civil society.

" This initiative, the first of its kind in Australia, aims to introduce the Moroccan culinary art and its flavors to the Australian public ," Medrek said in a statement to MAP on the sidelines of the opening ceremony.

The Ambassador explained that " Moroccan cuisine is one of the most refined and diversified thanks to the country's interaction with other cultures and nations over several centuries, particularly through its African, Berber, Moorish tributaries, Arab, Jewish and Mediterranean ". The richness of Moroccan cuisine also comes from ancestral know-how, which has always crossed generations, he added.

And to emphasise that Morocco and Australia " enjoy excellent relations and that such events help to bring together the two peoples who share the value of hospitality ".

For his part, the Director General of the Hyatt Hotel Canberra, Fredrick Arul, said that the event " is an opportunity for Australians to taste the dishes and dishes that make the richness of the culinary arts of Morocco, a country that attracts more and more Australian tourists . "

" For this premiere in Canberra, the hotel is experiencing unprecedented enthusiasm for its prestigious restaurant" la Promenade ", which has 150 people daily. A craze expected given the notoriety enjoyed by Moroccan cuisine around the world, "he said, adding that this kind of event is very important to further strengthen the bonds of friendship between Rabat and Canberra and mutual understanding between the two peoples.

The guests at this first evening, enhanced by traditional Moroccan music, have not lost any praise for the delicious dishes, including the must-haves of Moroccan gastronomy couscous with seven vegetables, meat tagine with prunes, the Pastilla, the chicken with olives and lemon confit without forgetting the essential tea with mint. A unique tasting experience offering diners the opportunity to discover a range of dishes as refined as each other.

Hassan M'Souli

These gastronomic days will continue until August 12 with the participation of the Moroccan chef, Hassan M'Souli and his "new Moroccan" cuisine.

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Fes Festival of Culinary Diplomacy

The Fes Festival of Culinary Diplomacy is set to return after the success of its previous edition. The event, which will take place from 27 to 30 April, will highlight the Moroccan gastronomic heritage with its three components: Arab-Andalusian, Amazigh and Judaic, at the crossroads of culinary traditions in three countries: France, Spain and Italy

Each dinner, prepared in cooperation with the representatives of each community, will be an opportunity to highlight the Arab-Andalusian, Amazigh and Hebrew traditions of Fez and Morocco. The main theme of these exchanges will be expressed by the journey of the great Ziryab, the founder of Andalusian music and the creator of a gourmet tradition still alive today. Hence the choice of the theme of this edition: "Culinary Diplomacy in the Mediterranean World".

Najat Kaanache

In this spirit, Moroccan chef Najat Kaanache will meet this year with personalities as diverse as Christian Têtedoie,  a French chef, Stefania Barzini, culinary leader and Italian journalist, Oliel Makhlouf, a Hebrew chef, and Fernando Pérez Fernández, a Spanish chef at the head of the "9 balcones" establishment in Huelva.

Dinner debates are organised each evening and preceded by an original, artistic and musical creation inspired by the Ziryâb repertoire. The public is also invited to film screenings, exhibitions and tastings of local products that will be held each day for free. Every day the public will be able to discover the artistic creation of the second edition of the Festival "La quête de Ziryâb"

In addition to the artistic performances and evenings (dinners-debates) organised during the Festival,  every day, a Mediterranean country and a Moroccan tradition will be honoured. The national and international chefs will be invited to make their market purchases in the Medina. Cooking workshops in public hotel training establishments will also be held under the supervision of renowned chefs.

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Fes Festival of World Sacred Music - Festival Fringe Events

During the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music there are a number of festival fringe events that are worth checking out, especially if it is your first time in Morocco

The fringe group activities will be held throughout the duration of the festival. They all require a minimum of six people for every event and once those numbers are reached each activity will be confirmed with twenty-four hours notice.


Drum Making Workshop

Music is a cornerstone of Moroccan life and can be heard from homes, celebrations, young street musicians and Gnawa groups throughout the medina.

The fabulous setting for this adventure is a bohemian Fondouk in the middle of the Medina. You will be introduced to a specialist drum-maker who will help you to choose an unfinished earthenware tom-tom drum and then take you to the worker to choose your leather hide of camel, goat or fish skin. You can decide by testing some out finished drums for the varying sounds. Then you are taught by the expert craftsmanship how to work the hide onto the drum by yourself and the technical skill of different stringing to secure it tightly to create the drum's tones.

The workshop concludes with a drumming session with a local professional drummer. So this is a unusual opportunity to create Moroccan rhythms and the beats of ancient times is your very own instrument.

The Sacred Music Festival 450DH Price is per person. Duration 3 hours. Meet at 10am at the Batha Post Office (see booking details at the bottom of this post)

Tasting Trails - A Culinary Adventure

The famous tasting trails will run as a group activity from Saturday 14th to Thursday 20th at 10am to 12.30pm.

This activity involves an exciting journey, winding your way through the alleys and souqs with a Fez food expert.

You'll visit three different souks and food-have an opportunity to try traditional Moroccan street food, dried meats, milawi and more. At the Honey Souq you'll be able to taste an array of delicious honeys and learn about their health-giving properties. You will also discover why honey is so significant in Moroccan cooking and Islamic culture.

The Tasting Trail also includes visiting a furnatchi Where the water for the communal bath house (hammam) is heated and a 400 year old Firan - a communal bakery.

Discover the world of Moroccan spices and their uses and the secrets of the male-oriented domain of the tea den under the guidance of a culinary leader and story-teller.

Sacred Music Festival 450DH Price is per person. Duration 2.5 hours. Meet at 10am Batha Post Office. (See booking details at the bottom of this post)


Volubilis and Moulay Idriss Tour

From 13th - 21st June you can take a half-day tour to Volubilis and Moulay Idriss departing at 9am returning at 2.30pm.

Spend time exploring the ancient Roman city of Volubilis. With its well preserved mosaics, palaces, baths and soaring arches it is considered one of Morocco's most important archeological sites.

After Volubilis move on to Moulay Idriss, one of Morocco's venerated Muslim sites. Moroccans say it is the place you must visit five times in your lifetime if you can not afford to go to Mecca. The scenic town has lovely souks to explore and a number of panoramic views of Volubilis.

Sacred Music Festival 450DH Price is per person and includes transportation, guided tour and lunch at a local farm close to Volubilis.

Duration 4.56hours. Transport leaves from the Batha Post Office at 9am.

Booking
Contact Plan-it-Fez and mention you discovered them via The View from Fez! 

Phone: +212 (0) 535 638 708 
email info@plan-it-fez.com
Online: www.plan-it-fez . com

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Fez Culinary Festival

The View from Fez is delighted to learn than the Fez Culinary Festival will be held from 29-31 October at various venues in the medina.

This 5th edition of the festival will offer an exhibition, tastings, workshops and talkshops, demonstrations, a gala dinner with a fashion show, a film screening for children, a visit to the souk and even a concert.

The woman behind this revamped, innovative-sounding festival is Director Danielle Cabanis, Professor of Law and Politics at Toulouse University. It will be presented by the Spirit of Fez Foundation.

'In Fez', Cabanis explains, 'all the traditions, cultures and religions are found. The Culinary Festival this year will showcase the celebratory foods of the three Abrahamic faiths, and bring together spirituality, music, exhibitions and cooking. Sharing festival food together in some of the most beautiful buildings of the city will create a festive spirit of conviviality.'

Danielle Cabanis

As was seen at the recent Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, a wider range of medina venues will be used than in the past, including Dar Mokri, Bab al Makina, the Batha Museum, Dar Tazi, the Merinides Hotel and the Palais Jamai.

Here is the programme:

FRIDAY 29 OCTOBER

14h00 Opening at Bab al Makina

15h00 Opening of the exhibition:

Celebration table settings:

- traditional Moroccan, European and Asian

- tableware from Morocco, Italy, Portugal, France and Germany

- glass and metalware from France and the Czech Republic

Cookbooks: celebratory meals from around the Mediterranean. Authors in attendance for signing and talking about their books.

Cooking utensils old and new

Diaporama of music used for festivals

16h00 Workshops:

1. Small Christmas cakes: Inge Anex-Hegenscheidt

2. Ramadan patisserie

3. Patisserie for children

18h30 Tastings

Film screening for children 'Ratatouille' in the Salle de la Mairie

20h00 Dinner: traditional Muslim dishes

SATURDAY 30 OCTOBER

09h00 Workshops:

1. Traditional Moroccan spices and flavours for celebrations

2. Foie Gras (chef B. Garrigues); Christmas pudding

3. Cheese, with Mme Sena

4. a top Swiss chocolatier

09h30 Opening of activities around culinary traditions: demonstrations and tastings

10h00 Conference:

- Festive gastonomy: an important market (with representatives from Nestle, poultry and ostrich farmers, and the Moroccan food distribution industry)

- Frauds and festivals - or consumer protection, with Prof Andre Cabanis

- Religious and patriotic festivals in the USA, with Sylvie Davidson, Professor at Dickinson College

Light lunch with traditional Christian and Muslim dishes, attended by the wives of ambassadors.

14h30 Workshops and tastings:

1. Small Christmas cakes, with Inge Anex-Hegenscheidt

2. Ramadan patisserie

3. Table settings, presentation and serviette-folding, with Professor Christophe Laurent of the Lausanne Hotel School

4. Demonstration of cooking equipment

15h00 Conference:

- Festive meals in painting, with Guy de Toulza, Ecole des Beaux Arts

- Musicians and festive gastronomy, with Marc Laborde, Director of CRDP

- Festivals as seen by writers, with Georges Mailhos, former President of Toulouse Le Mirail

- Meals for festivals and sharing, with Danielle Cabanis

19h00 Concert with soloists from the Passions Orchestra

20h30 Gala dinner: pastilla, turkey, Christmas desserts

with a Moroccan and European fashion show

SUNDAY 31 OCTOBER

09h00 Workshops:

1. Festival menus revisited (with video and reports)

2. Decor for religious festivals: pinecones, candleholders, balls and chandeliers

3. Festival fruits and vegetables, with Mme Matthey

4. Iranian cocktails

10h30 Conference:

- Does God like festivals? with Chantal Borde-Benayoun, a Moroccan rabbi, Pastor Ellul, Bernard Beignier from the Law faculty at Toulouse, an imam

12h00 Buffet prepared by the Moroccan Jewish community

from 13h00

Tasting lunch at Bab al Makina with typical dishes from around the world: pilau from central Asia, nasi-goreng from Indonesia, poulet yassa from sub-Saharan Africa, Lebanese mezze, fish couscous, canard confit, Mediterranean kebabs, galettes and crepes, olives, Russian dishes, Polish desserts

Sale of typical products

Musicians: Arab-Andalous, central European Jewish music, children's Christmas choir

15h00 A visit to the vegetable souk

17h00 Closure and announcement of 2011 Festival

It's not clear yet where everything will be held, nor what the costs will be. The Festival's website is under construction at www.festivalartculinaire.com.

A Guide to Moroccan Cuisine

It is not very often that The View from Fez takes issue with Lonely Planet. Our survey of tourists showed that the LP Morocco Guide and city guides such as Fez Encounter are the favoured guide books of most travellers. However, a recent online article featured on Lonely Planet’s website did raise some eyebrows and generated several emails asking about the odd tone, inaccurate information and glaring omissions. The article was headed “Top 10 tips for devouring Moroccan cuisine”. Ibn Warraq delves deeper:

Some people just love to make lists; “ten of this”, “the best twenty of that”. However, this list is rather confused and desperately in need of a revamp. The article suggested it was offering “the top ten things that foodies should know to get the most out of culinary Morocco.” At first glance the focus appeared to be on Marrakech – “ Even atheists find foodie religion in Marrakesh, where the dishes keep coming until you protest ’Alhamdulillah‘, or ‘Praise be to God’. “

But then the article talked about b’stilla which is not a Marrakech specialty, but probably the most famous dish from Fez. The Marrakech specialty using the special b'stilla pastry is trid (layers of soft waraka pastry with lamb and spices ) which has its origins in an ancient Amazigh (Berber) recipe found in many remote villages. You can get some of the best trid at Dar Zellij but it is wise to order it in advance when you make your booking.

CULINARY HISTORY

The article carries a bold claim that Moroccans have “hand-picked Spain’s favourite ingredients”. This is a myth that is far from the truth. Many people think that due to the fact Morocco was in French and Spanish possession for periods in the 19th and 20th centuries, Moroccan cuisine has been heavily influenced by the French and the Spanish. While some ideas have been shared, its culinary culture traces its roots firmly to the indigenous Berbers and Arabs, who invaded the land in the 7th century CE.

Fruits and vegetables have always been grown and fish and seafood are plentiful due to the long coastline, while Morocco's inland environment has always been perfect for the raising of large flocks of sheep and goats. Many spices such as cumin, paprika and turmeric were introduced by the Arabs as was their tradition of cooking meat with fruit such as dates, raisins and figs.

This is a region marked by geographic, political, social, economic and cultural diversity, and the cuisine and the culinary style and art of North Africa are also as diverse as the land, its people and its history. The roots to North African cuisine can be traced back over 2000 years, with that of ancient Egypt covering a span of over three thousand years.

Over several centuries traders, travellers, invaders, slaves, migrants and immigrants all have influenced the cuisine of North Africa. The Phoenicians of the 1st century brought sausages, the Carthaginians introduced wheat and its by product, semolina. The Berbers adapted this into couscous, one of the main staples. Olives and olive oil were introduced before the arrival of the Romans. From the 7th century onwards, the Arabs introduced a variety of spices like saffron, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger and cloves, which contributed to and influenced the culinary culture of North Africa. The Ottoman Turks brought sweet pastries and other bakery products, and from the New World, North Africa got potatoes, tomatoes, zucchini and chili peppers.

The cuisine of the Maghreb is primarily a mixture of Berber and Arab culinary traditions, with some European and Jewish influences and, contrary to the Lonely Planet article, I would say there is a good case that Moroccan cuisine made its way to Spain rather than the other way around.

VEGETARIANS

Vegetarians, as the article notes, are well catered for, but far more than is suggested. Think, loubia (spiced beans) fuul (spiced broadbeans), lentils, fried aubergines/peppers, all of which add to vegetarian options. And for dessert, the traditional sliced oranges with cinnamon is a good choice. A walk through the souq will amaze the visitor with the fabulous array of vegetables, fruit, dried fruit and nuts and soft white cheese for self-caterers or for snacking vegetarians. Because the produce is so fresh and seasonal, the varieties on offer can and do change week by week.

FISH

There is no mention at all in the article of another important Moroccan traditional food group – fish. Not only is Morocco the world’s major producer of sardines, the fresh seafood is superb and varied (I suggest you try some rolled in chermoula and fried). And of course there are the famous oysters from Oualidia. Essaouira is renowned for its portside fish barbeques and in its restaurants (I suggest you check out Taros in Place Moulay Hassan), cold seafood salads drizzled with argan oil.

WINES

Then there are the Moroccan wines. While the article mentions some of the better labels, it omits the more recent labels such as Volubilis, Eclipse and Halana. The famous Moroccan gris wines are not even mentioned! Other favourites include Médaillon, Les Coteaux de L’Atlas and the sometimes hard to find Mogador wines. If you are in Marrakech or Essaouira I suggest you visit the producers of Gazelle de Mogador, the Domaines Du Val D’Argan. This winery is just 30k from Essaouira and produces some of the best wines in Morocco. It was established in 1994 by the current owner, Charles Mélia. He and his employees only speak French. They have over 900 hectolitres of wine, which is equal to about 120,000 bottles.

STREET FOOD

One word of caution about the street food: yes, it is safer and better than almost any of the tourist “palace restaurants”, but with the svenge (fried doughnuts) and mekouda (potato fritters), it is wise to check out that the oil used for cooking is fresh.

COOKING LESSONS

The article mentions my friend Lahcen Beqqi, but do take note, Lahcen is in Fez, not Marrakech. Also in Fez there is now a fierce competition in culinary tours and cooking lessons. Fez Foods has become very popular with their gastronomic tours to olive and wine producers, their hands-on couscous rolling, as well a remarkable experience where you get to make a tangia at the butcher's on the street, take it to the ferran (bakery) to slow-cook for 6 hours and then eat!

Of course, if you get invited to eat with a family, you can be in for anything from superb to woeful because, as is true in all parts of the world, not all cooks are equal! That said, I am not a great couscous fan (you can get too much of a good thing), but one of the best meals I ever had was a couscous with chilli and a little bit of meat, with fresh (unpasteurised) buttermilk poured over it, in a family gite high in the Valley of the Roses.

B’saha – Ibn Warraq

PS If you are looking for fine food in Fez, take a look at our updated guide here.

Moroccan couscous - the traditional way

Couscous, or seksu as it's know in Moroccan Arabic, is one of the staple foods of the Maghreb. It's made of ground semolina that's moistened and rolled in flour.

Moroccan couscous

These days we usually buy ready-cooked couscous in packets from the supermarket, but there are parts of Morocco where it is still hand-rolled by village women and the difference in taste is remarkable. This is the 'real thing'.

Cynthia Berning, a US Peace Corps volunteer, has been working with a women's association in the small mud village of Khoukhate, some 130km south of Fez in the Middle Atlas, with the aim
of bringing back an appreciation for the art - and taste - of hand-rolled couscous.

Cynthia Berning

"The majority of women and girls [in the village] are still illiterate and thus have few opportunities to contribute financially to providing for their families", explains Cynthia.
"Enter the Association ENNAHDA ('rebirth' in Arabic), an association with the goal of increasing the standard of living for all residents of Khoukhate through the creation of employment for the women of the village."

When the operation started two years ago, it was limited to couscous production. But the business has now grown to include jams made from locally-grown fruit - fig, apple, apricot, orange, carrot and watermelon, there's herb-infused olive oil, almond butter, and the Moroccan high-energy snack 'zmita'. All the products are marketed under the name 'El Karma', which is Moroccan Arabic for fig tree, and is also the name of the natural spring in the village.

Now the association has an eco-tourism project where groups of visitors are welcomed to Khoukhate to learn the secrets of a good Moroccan couscous, and at the same time experience traditional rural life. Visitors roll their own couscous from scratch with the local women, and then cook it and eat it for lunch.

Couscous preparation: step 1

Step 2: sifting the couscous

Couscous ready for sale

The association has teamed up with Fez Food and Cafe Clock and it's now possible to learn this traditional art in Fez - great for people who don't have the time to go out to the village. There are monthly couscous workshops at Cafe Clock, conducted in English, French and Darija. The three-hour session begins with fresh vegetables, wholewheat flour, and water brought from the village spring. It finishes with lunch, and could be the best couscous you've ever eaten.

The next workshop is at 11h30-14h30 on Friday 13 November at Cafe Clock. For details and to book, contact Fez Food. Fez Food also runs excursions to the village.

For a peek into Cynthia's adventures in this tiny village, visit her blog, Couscous Chronicles. Information on the women's association can be found here.

See all The View from Fez Moroccan recipes here: Moroccan Recipes

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Faces in the Medina - Gail Leonard

Over the years there have been a lot of different people offering cooking lessons in Fez. Tourists, chefs and foodies have the city marked down as a "must visit" destination because of the wide range of culinary adventures available in and around the Fez Medina. Gail Leonard decided that what was needed was a little coordination and a way for intending visitors to book their culinary explorations in advance. The idea has grown into reality and Fez Food is up and running.

Recently The View from Fez, food editor, Marcel, caught up with Gail. Here is his report:

Gail Leonard, fabulously 40, previously ran a drug and alcohol agency in Yorkshire following a lot of research around the world, most notably 10 years in Berlin and a year in Tokyo whilst studying.

Loving the buzz of such extreme cities, she came to Fez for the first time in 2004 with her then partner. When I asked her "why Fez?" her eyes lit up.

"I Immediately fell in love with Fez because of the mystery and madness that the city offers at every single turn!".

Now embarking on a whole new adventure she has set up FezFood to promote cooking lessons and foodie adventures in the Fez region. What better way to access the local authentic culture, than by exploring the food and drinks that sustain it! Her first client is Clock Kitchen, café clock’s new cooking school, other ventures include trips to the Middle Atlas to hand roll couscous, tastings and tours of Meknes wineries and more delights are in progress. "I'm always on the lookout for people offering new culinary adventures in the region," Gail says.

Her favourite street food – chalouine (or hoummus quiche!) hard to find but worth it!
Favourite cafe – Café clock ("The staff do a great job at looking after my toddler Francesca whilst Mummy gets stuck into researching the cake!")
Favourite restaurant – Fes et gestes for great Moroccan fare
Favourite getaway – anywhere by the sea with great food!
Favourite dish to cook – tanjia.

What was so special about tanjia?

"The first time I felt properly embraced by my local community was the time I cooked tanjia. The whole street got involved in helping me with shopping, spices, translation at the community oven (Feran) and finally at the hammam furnace. Amazing!"

Given the forty-plus days in Fez, I could not avoid asking how she remains so cool and energtic.

"My secret for surviving the heat? Eating the best ice cream in Fez at The Villa and total immersion therapy (in Francesca’s princess paddling pool !)


Contact Gail at: fezfood@gmail.com