Chilling Out in Asillah and a Trip to Paradise

Escaping the heat in Fez is not always as easy as it sounds. Simply getting on a train is difficult, as our reporter, Sue Bail, discovered as she headed to Asillah to chill out

Asillah - cooler than Fez

Many people had warned me of how much Moroccans love the beach in August and how crowded every coastal town is post Ramadan but I needed to escape the heat wave of Fez and surely they were exaggerating..... Not at all. I couldn't even get a train out of Fez for the coast for 12 hours as all were booked out. Even the 1am first class carriage was doubly booked with people filling the aisles.

Asillah was buzzing

Eventually in Asillah and after a nap I hit the cafe for an espresso and couldn't believe my ears and eyes. This quiet 'art' town as I had known it off season was heaving. Every street was a mass of parading families and teenagers, strutting their stuff, staring with curiosity, cars crawling through the crowds, music thumping, every Mercedes and BMW black. Horse and carts, a local form of taxi, were jigging their way through the mayhem.

The beach was a sports ground, dotted with flimsy umbrellas and thatched cafes, while the alleys of the medina were like a fun park with everyone on a treasure hunt for the next mural to pose against.

The ramparts were bursting at sunset as the foreshore came alive with snail soup stands, henna ladies, fishermen with their fresh catch, music trolleys and again, masses of people, reinvigorated post siesta and ready to amble through the night.

My hotel backed onto a wedding venue with newlyweds each and all night. I can report that there's not a lot of sleep happening in Asillah.

The saga of getting to Paradise Beach.... Great test in patience & how much do you really want that swim????

I haggle with green petit taxi that the hotel recommended only to be told that I have to get a grand taxi. So I go to the grand taxi stand only to be told I need to catch a petit taxi to another grand taxi stand.

Eventually I reach a packed market place where a "friend" says I must book the whole taxi because no one else is going to this famous beach, then he says he has a friend with a very good cafe there, yeah yeah, sure,  soooooo dodgy!

Asillah - art is everywhere

Cutting back through the market shaking my head, I remind myself that I should know better. It must be the heat, the delirium of the my cold medication. I head back to the hotel for a cold shower and re-energise ready for another attempt.

Back to the market and so starts the spiel,  but, in the end, I find myself jumping into a blanketed cart behind a fragrant horse and going for the genuine local back-in-time jig through the back streets, rubbish dumps, shepherds with goats and cows, melon fields, etc baking in the afternoon sun and being overtaken by locals, ten to a car, hurtling down the dusty track to paradise. I'm definitely the odd one out here but enjoying the pace once I relax into it.

On the road to Paradise - better than a taxi

Diving into the fresh waves was delicious, and, like a water baby, I didn't want to come back to earth.

After several water-soaked hours I walked back up the beach to find my horse & cart waiting for the jig home and I smiled all the way.

Paradise never comes easily... but it is certainly worth it.

Text and photographs: Sue Bail

SHARE THIS!

The Perfect Weekend Break in Morocco

Asilah is one of those beautiful places in Morocco that often gets overlooked by visitors. However, a new website (AsilahInfo.com) has been set up to promote the town and hopefully lure a lot more people to a place that has everything for a perfect weekend. This is what they have to say...

Need an escape? Why not spend the weekend in Asilah, a quite seaside town located on the beautiful Atlantic coast just 40 minutes south of Tangier? Whether you fancy getting lost in the meandering streets of the medina, escaping to the beach or trying a delicious fish tagine, Asilah has something for everyone.

A great way to start your stay in Asilah is with a visit to the hammam. A vigorous scrub and massage will help you relax in to the town’s laidback atmosphere. Then head to the medina to discover its thriving arts scene.

Ever since the first The Cultural Moussem of Asilah in 1978, artists have been invited to paint murals on the white-washed houses of the medina. These brightly coloured works of art help to distinguish Asilah from the other Andalucian style towns in Morocco, such as Chefchaouen and Essaouria. As well as seeing the works of visiting artists, you can visit the small galleries of Moroccan and European artists who have made Asilah their home.

The medina is protected from the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean by ramparts which form part of the wall built by the Portuguese in the 17th Century. In the evening walk out onto the Krikia, a stone pier on the south side of the medina, to enjoy a dazzling sunset over the horizon.

There are a handful of quality guesthouses in Asilah, all located in or close to the medina. One of the most established is Patio de la Luna; situated in front of the medina wall, it offers a comfortable stay in its rustic-chic rooms. Alternatively, you can rent a house in the medina. In recent years many of the old, dilapidated medina homes have been beautifully restored and are now available for holiday rental.

If you choose a self-catering holiday, visit the harbour in the evening to get your hands on the fresh catch of the day. There is usually wide range of fish and seafood to choose from including crab, sword fish and sole. Otherwise dine at one of the great fish restaurants located on the promenade, such as Le Place or El Espigon. Ask for the waiter’s recommendation and enjoy it with a chilled glass of Moroccan wine.

Rmilate Beach (also known as Paradise Beach) 7 km south of Asilah

During the day, most visitors escape to one of the area’s stunning beaches. The most well-known beach is Rmilate (Paradise Beach). Located 7km to the south of Asilah, the most recommended way to travel there is by horse and cart (150 Dh return). This rustic form of transport will allow you to take in the surrounding countryside (TIP: to avoid a sore bum, take a cushion!) The beach is in a long and sandy bay, lined with chiringuitos which serve grilled sardines, calamari and fish tagines.

Asilah train station is located 2 km from the town center. Trains travel to all major cities, including Tangier (40 mins), Meknes (3 hrs), Rabat (3.5 hrs), Fez (4 hrs), Casablanca (4.5 hrs) and Marrakesh (9 hrs) – night sleeper train available.

More information about restaurants, accommodation, activities and events can be found at AsilahInfo.com. Read the reviews of past visitors and leave your own comments to help others enjoy a weekend in Asilah.

Text and photos: Carin Cowell

SHARE THIS!

Morocco - Upcoming Events

There is plenty happening in Morocco over the next few weeks. So take out your diary and make some notes!

Moussem des Femmes Créatrices d'Assilah - the Festival of Creative Women in Asilah takes place again this year from March 1 to March 6.

Asilah is a fortified town on the northwest tip of the Atlantic coast of Morocco, about 31 km from Tangier. Its ramparts and gates remain fully intact. Its history dates back to 1500 B.C., when the Phoenicians used it as a base for trade. The Portuguese conquered the city in 1471, but John III later decided to abandon it because of an economic crisis in 1549. In 1692, the town was taken by the Moroccans under the leadership of Moulay Ismail. Asilah served then as a base for pirates in the 19th and 20th centuries.

Asilah waterfront 

The Festival of Creative Women (not to be confused with the Asilah Arts Festival in August) is always a good time to visit as the exhibitions and events add to the atmosphere. The emphasis of the festival is on supporting and promoting the artistic skills of rural and urban women in the Arab-Mediterranean nations. L’Association Marocaine des Créatrices Contemporarines created the festival to showcase the achievements of women and to encourage the artists to sell they artistic products nationally and internationally as an independent means of income. More details about this year's event when they become available.

The International Nomad Festival  (8, 9 and 10 March) was first staged in 2003  and is based in the small Moroccan village of M'hamid El Ghizlane, some 60 kilometres south of Zagora in the Draa Valley. This, the ninth edition of the festival, features dance, music, exhibitions, conferences and handicraft displays and draws international artists from France, Spain and Brazil. This year will feature a major exhibition of local produce and crafts of Morocco.

the festival is full of surprises

This is a great opportunity to take a different journey and find a new experience of the desert.

During these three days will be held roundtables, conferences and workshops related to the heritage of the region. Local artists, regional, national and international will join the festival and share their musical universe on two stages: one at 4 km north of El Ghizlane M'hamid in the dunes, the other south in the center of M'hamid.

For more information call (212) 662104793 or email clubnomades@gmail.com


The Maroc Classic

The 19th edition of the "MAROC CLASSIC - La Route du Coeur" is a rally run between march 17th and 24th, under the Honorary Chairmanship of His Royal Highness Prince Moulay Rachid and features (by invitation) historic cars and modern GTs. The rally is organised under the auspices of the Federation Royale Marocaine des Sports Automobiles (FRMSA).

Provisional Programme
Sunday, March 18th         LEG 1: RABAT – VOLUBILIS – FES (260 kms)
Monday, March 19th        LEG 2: FES – KENIFRA – BIN EL OUIDANE (390 kms)
Tuesday, March 20th        LEG 3: BIN EL OUIDANE – DEMNATE – OUARZAZATE (320 kms)
Wednesday, March 21st    LEG 4: OUARZAZATE – TAFRAOUTE – AGADIR (498 kms)
Thursday, March 22nd     LEG 5: AGADIR – TAROUDANNT - AGADIR (283 kms)
Friday, March 23rd          LEG 6: AGADIR – TAROUDANNT – MARRAKECH (396 kms)
Saturday, March 24th       LEG 7: MARRAKECH – MARRAKECH (148 kms)

Aïcha Gazelle Rally


This competition is the standard reference for women's motorized adventure. It is open to amateur or professional women only who are then immersed in the Moroccan Sahara for 14 days on their 4X4, motorbike, ATV or truck. With its unique concept involving eco-driving without excess speed, based on traditional navigation without GPS the Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles du Maroc was the precursor to a new vision for auto rallies.

22nd edition takes place from 17th to 31st of March 2012. The Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles was the first rally to offer internet users the opportunity to follow, live, the competitors or the team of their choice, thanks to a satellite tracking system installed in each vehicle.

Against a Google Map background, internet users can experience the competition in real time.

They can keep track of the number of check points located, the route taken by their team, the team’s adventures throughout the day. The rankings, posted on line every evening, allow them to follow the progress of their favourite teams.Find out more on the rally website.


Tan Tan Moussem - The Tan Tan Festival

This important gathering (21 - 26th March) of the "Blue Men" takes place each year in the small desert town of Tan Tan in South Morocco. Members of neighbouring tribes gather for the Sidi Mohammed Mâa El Aynine Moussem which is both religious and for tourists.

Started in 1963, primarily as a religious festival, the annual Tan Tan Moussem draws thousands of members of nomadic tribes to gather together for a celebration of tradition and culture. In the past the focus of the Tan Tan Moussem was the tomb of the great Saharan leader Cheik Mohamed Laghdaf, who died in 1960 after fighting for decades against French and Spanish colonial invaders. In addition to being a festival of worship, this is an opportunity for tribes to socialize with song and dance, swap stories, share herbal remedy knowledge, compete in horse races and engage in some serious camel trading.

Due to the turmoil being experienced in the region in the mid-1970s, authorities at the time banned the Tan Tan Moussem. However, the festival had life breathed back into it when in 2004, UNESCO teamed up with the Moroccan Ministry of Tourism to revive the festival which they considered to be a “masterpiece of the oral and intangible heritage of humanity.” The response was overwhelming and the Tan Tan Moussem has reclaimed its spot as the largest gathering of nomadic tribes in northern Africa.

SHARE THIS!

Iphone Coverage of Assilah Festival

A while ago, The View from Fez, posted a story about the UAE being the special guests at the Assilah Festival ( see story HERE) Now there is exciting news that the Emirates have teamed up with URBN Travel to provide an Iphone app so that people from around the world can keep in touch with the happenings at the Assilah Festival.


Eamonn Carey from URBN travel told us: "This year, the UAE is the guest of honour at the festival, and in celebration of that fact, we're working with the Abu Dhabi Authority for Culture and Heritage to produce iPhone and Android apps, a webapp and a whole range of text, images, videos, podcasts, livestreams and more. It's the first time that something like this has happened at a festival in Africa, and we're pretty excited about being part of it. We're hoping that by doing this, we'll allow people from all over the world to connect with the festival through our apps and through the www.adachatassilah.com website - that way, they can read about what's happening, see tons of regularly updated images, view videos with the participants and generally get a feel for what the festival is all about.

Where to get the app?

There are download links for the apps on www.urbntravel.com - the iPhone and Android apps have a full range of features - the webapp is a little simpler so as not to kill people's data plans.

The View from Fez has downloaded and tested the app and can report it looks like an exciting innovation.

And here is a suggestion. This kind of coverage needs to be taken up by the organisers of the Fez Festival of World Sacred Music, The Sufi Festival and the Essaouira Gnaoua Festival.

UAE to be guest of honour at Asilah Arts Festival

The United Arab Emirates is playing an active role in the events of the Morocco's Asilah Arts Festival in July 10-28.



The Asilah Arts Festival has been running since 1978.

The painters at the Morocco Asilah Arts Festival are given an entire wall at the Medina to be used as a canvas for their imagination. They paint a mural on it on any topic and it’s quite a treat to watch their brushes swishing and swirling to create interesting and intriguing designs. The Asilah Arts Festival, Morocco is probably the most important of the art festivals in Morocco but much more than this; it is a forum for the artists from all around the world to express their art and ideas.

ASILAH is a fortified town on the northwest tip of the Atlantic coast of Morocco, about 50 km from Tangier. Its ramparts remain fully intact. It is now a popular seaside resort, with modern holiday apartment complexes on the coast road leading to the town from Tangier. Its history dates back to 1500 B.C., when the Phoenicians used it as a base for trade.

The UAE has been chosen as the Festival's guest of honour by the organizers for experiencing a massive increase in its distinguished cultural and literary activities, both in the region and the world.

The Festival, whose slogan is "Renewable Energy - A Leap Towards Human Development", will witness the participation of more than forty-five countries from around the world. It is one of the most important art festivals in the Middle East and North Africa and seeks to promote cultural exchange and open a dialogue between different countries. Its ethos is to celebrate the values of peace and tolerance.

The participation of the UAE covers various events, including cultural, artistic, literary and folk events. Masdar, a leading Abu Dhabi investment and technology company, is participating in the Festival by holding an international conference on the importance of renewable energy. This will be held at the Festival for the first time since its conception.

The Festival honours the cultural history of the region with a rich program of events from the Ministry of Culture, Youth and Community Development. This includes the organization of UAE folklore concerts, exhibitions of Arabic calligraphy and UAE music. In addition to this a conference is held at the Festival on poetry in the UAE, including an evening of poetry reading and recitation and various intellectual and cultural activities.

Spanish couple killed in Asilah

The seaside town of Asilah, just south of Tangier, was today the scene of the murder of a Spanish couple.


The English-language website, Barcelona Reporter, tells of a man and a woman, whose identities have not yet been released, who were stabbed during the night by a stranger who stole their money and passports.

According to police sources, the alleged murderer also stole the couple's car. However, later that night he collided with a truck, which led to his arrest.

The investigators of the case remain in the victims' house. They were a middle-aged couple who lived in Madrid and who had been taking holidays for the past ten years in this tourist town. The alleged murderer, who was not injured in the accident, has already been moved to Tangier for questioning.

The crime scene has a significant police presence, including members of the Judicial Police who have come from Casablanca, locals said. Asilah is a resort much frequented by the Spanish, many of whom have purchased second homes.