Monday, December 01, 2008

Moroccan Kaftans hit the catwalk.


If kaftans are your thing, then last weekend Casablanca was the place to be. Maroc Premium magazine hosted the 3rd annual Mode Made in Morocco and the spotlight was eight designers whose work blended tradition and modern fashion.

According to Michele Desmottes, the fashion show's director, "Moroccan designers are getting more and more orders from abroad as people recognise the exceptional creativity in Morocco."

Her view is shared by the Parisian couturier Dominique Sirop, the show's guest of honour. "For three years, we've been seeing a real emergence of Moroccan designers, worthy of what is happening in other countries," he said. "They prove that Morocco is not just the sun, tajine and the kaftan."


A Mademoiselle Lucien design.

Most of the outfits seen Saturday looked traditional with their embroidery and shimmering colours, but the actual tailoring was much more contemporary, with bustiers and short skirts contrasting with the common flowing kaftan.

Designers such as Jamal Daoudi and Nabil Dahani still draw inspiration from Morocco, but as they work in Paris, their creations seem more audacious, more modern, lighter, and indeed more European.

Hassan Tanner took home the Jean-Louis Scherrer prize for his dresses that were light and closely cut to the body -- perhaps the most radical designs to be seen at the weekend's show.

Creations by Marrakesh-based Frederique Birkemeyer were equally feminine, rich in embroidery and inlay.

One wonders what Yves Saint Laurent would have thought. The legendary French designer, who died in Paris in June aged 71, kept a second home in Marrakech, and many of his best creations took inspiration from the kaftan.

Menswear got a look-in at this year's Mode Made in Morocco as well, with Tangiers native Salima Salima Abdel-Wahab sending out two highly original outfits light years from that classic desert robe, the djellaba.

Designs from previous years

Organisers nevertheless unanimously regretted a lack of support for the show this year from both the government and the garment industry.

"It is time to wake up and to encourage individual talent," Desmottes said, as Sirop underlined the role that fashion can play "in the economic development of the country."

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