A visit to the hammam

I receive numerous emails from people about how to behave in the hammam. As a foreigner you will normally find Moroccans very welcoming and helpful, but as many people are hesitant about visiting a hammam for the first time, here are a few tips. With an understanding of the unwritten rules of the hammam you should be fine.

First of all ask around and find a hammam near you. Check out the times for men and women. Often the day is divided between women in the morning and men in the evening. The cost is usually around five dirhams. Having decided on the place and time you need to get a few things.

1. Buckets. The hammams normally have a supply of black buckets but I have found it best to take my own as they can be in short supply. So purchase a couple of plastic buckets in the local souq.


2. Scoop. You will need to bring a small plastic bowl to mix your water with. The place you buy your buckets from will normally have white ones with no handle.


3. Soap. Shampoo, and a razor if you want to shave. Don’t forget your towel and hairbrush.


4. A plastic bag to hold your clothes while you wash.


5. Scrubbing glove or mitt. The Moroccans seem to prefer a black mitt.


6. Underwear. Preferably dark boxer shorts for men and underpants for women. Women remove their bras when washing. Bring clean underwear to put on afterwards.

When you arrive, pay, get a ticket and go to the dressing area. Undress down to your underwear and put your clothes and towel in the bag – you don’t take the towel into the hammam. Take your bag and ticket back to the counter and give the attendant a couple of dirhams to look after it for you. They don’t give you a bag check, so relax, they will certainly remember you.

Next, take your buckets and soap etc and check out the rooms of the hammam and decide where you will feel most comfortable. Be careful to sit where there is good drainage and not downhill from someone.

Take your buckets and fill one with hot and one with cold water, leaving enough room to do a bit of mixing to get the best temperature for your needs. Remember the hot is usually very hot, so take care. Go back to your spot and use your scoop to mix the water.

When you have the right temperature, wet yourself all over and relax for a few minutes while you start to sweat and your skin softens. Then it is time for a scrub with your black glove. Moroccans don’t usually use soap yet. It is quite common among women for other women to offer to do your back for you and you should return the favour. Be aware that if an attendant offers it will cost you a few dirhams and the scrubbing will be pretty hard! If it gets too much for you simply say shuya (a little).

After you have scrubbed every inch of yourself and the dead skin is coming off, rinse yourself. Only then is it time for the soap, the shampoo or the shave. When you are done, rinse and relax for a few minutes.

When you are ready to leave, return to the counter with your buckets and collect your bag. The attendant will usually wish you good health as you leave by saying bisaha and it is polite to reply allah stik saha.


Tags: Morocco, Fès, travel, Fez,