Friday, August 31, 2007

Moroccan Cuisine


An exciting development today on the blogging front. A blog called A Moroccan Kitchen has started up and is run by two Moroccan women - one of whom had never touched a computer in her life until this morning. A few years ago this could never have happened and such a step forward is wonderful, not just for the two women, but as an example to their friends of how the internet can open up the world to them and them to the world.

Based at Riad Laaroussa, Sabah and Samira are also using the blog to practice their English and so it will be interesting to see how they improve over the coming months.

Sabah and Samira make their first post!

Sabah and Samira have had instant success with the first question about a recipe arriving within an hour of the blog going on line.

They intend to use the blog to share recipes, tell stories about their life in the Fez Medina and as a record of all the people they meet while they teach Moroccan cooking.

We wish them well and will follow their progress with much interest.


Tags:

Books about Fez



As so often happens at Thami's, Lumen got talking last night to a couple of English tourists, Adrian and Jackie. 'Are there any books set in Fez?' asked Adrian, which is a very good question. Here are some - anybody know of any more?

Probably the most well-known is The Spider’s House by Paul Bowles. Here is Fez inthe last days of the French occupation, providing the background for this political novel.
Titus Burckhardt's tome, Fez, City of Islam has been republished with the original 1930s black-and-white photographs as well as some new ones, and gives a profound understanding of Islamic history, culture and religion.
In Morocco by Edith Wharton portrays the 1920 memoirs of an American invited to tour Morocco by the French Resident-General Lyautey. Wharton’s approach is Orientalist and somewhat patronising, but the book is interesting for her impressions of markets, harems, palaces and mosques she visited.
Leo the African by the Lebanese writer Amin Maalouf is a rendition of the true story of Hasan al-Wazzan who became known as Leo Africanus. Fleeing the Inquisition in Spain, this 16th century traveller and writer spent his childhood and young adulthood in Fez and paints a remarkable picture of life in the city at that time.
Lords of the Atlas by Gavin Maxwell touches on Fez while it tells of political intrigue centred on the Glaoui brothers of Marrakech. Note that Walter Harris’ Morocco That Was is largely reproduced in the appendix of this book.
Morocco That Was by Walter Harris, The Times correspondent in Morocco in the early part of the 20th century is full of local culture and includes his espionage for the British and French. He tells of his 35 years in Morocco with a great deal of humour.

And somewhat more current:
Reviews of The Road to Fez by Ruth Knafo Setton are effusive, though Lumen wasn't so keen. It's the tale of a young Moroccan-born American-Jewish woman, who goes back to visit her family in Morocco, and falls in love with her uncle. Interwoven in the story is the story of Suleika, a nineteenth century woman who was tortured and killed for her beliefs.
Fatema Mernissi's Dreams of Trespass: Tales of a Harem Girlhood draws on her own Fassi childhood memories and the dreams of the women surrounding her. It's an imaginative story of a girl exploring the boundaries of time and place, gender and sex within the last 70 years.
The Cobbler’s Apprentice by Sandy McCutcheon has a theme of terrorism, counter-terrorism and bacteriological warfare and this thriller is partly set in the babouche workshops and tiny alleyways of the Fez medina. A young Palestinian escapes from Guantanamo Bay and becomes an agent of mass destruction.

Soon to come is the exciting new book by Suzanna Clarke, House in Fez. With feisty determination, Clarke and her husband plunged into the process of restoring an old riad that veered between frustration, hilarity and moments of pure exhilaration. This book explores Moroccan culture, history and Islam, traditional Sufi rituals and the world of women.

There's one other book that touches on Fez, A Year in the World by Frances Mayes. Lumen first turned to the chapter on Mayes' visit to Fez and it was delightful to read about Lori Wood's Pasha Baghdadi Massriya and the glowing comments about Hafid El-Amrani who manages it and is a familiar face to many in the medina. Despite the author's fame as the writer of 'Under the Tuscan Sun' that was turned into a film, Lumen found the writing vapid and vacuous and just had to stop reading altogether when the old Moorish quarter of Lisbon was described as 'deeply exotic'.


Tags:

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

ECHOES OF FES AT THE TRIBE OF DORIS

Guest contributor Mary Finnigan is a great friend of Fez and well known in Medina as the UK Co-ordinator Fes Festival of World Sacred Music. Here she shares some thoughts from abroad.



The drum beats get gradually louder as you negotiate Somerset country lanes, approaching the site where The Tribe of Doris www.tribeofdoris.co.uk is in full, glorious manifestation. The 2007 gathering started on a Wednesday, but I couldn’t get there until the Friday, so being drawn into the magic of the event by the sound of the drums was a bonus which made up for late arrival.

In case you are wondering why a festival in rural England is featuring on The View from Fes, let’s set this context without further ado. The Tribe of Doris is the brainchild of Siobhan Kierans who lives in Bristol, UK and also owns a house in the Fes medina. Siobhan has a Moroccan ex husband. She lived in Meknes for several years and speaks Arabic. She bought her house in Fes so her two sons could have a foothold in Moroccan culture.

Doris is now a much loved annual fixture, attracting visitors from many countries. People who return year after year – not to sit, listen and watch like a conventional music festival, but to take part in a plethora of participatory workshops. You can drum with world music stars like Seckou Keita and you can sing, dance and play music with teachers from all corners of the globe. For five days, everyday responsibilities are put aside as 1,200 Doris devotees pitch their tents or park their motor homes and plunge joyfully into a kaleidoscope of sights, sounds and activity. There’s a Well Being area offering massage, Reiki etc: There are lots of excellent food stalls, there are hot showers and the loos are cleaned twice a day. Heaven – additionally blessed this year with uncharacteristic hot summer weather.

Siobhan is nursing an ambition to introduce Doris-type events into the Fes festival landscape. If her energy and enthusiasm stay at their present level, I have no doubt whatsoever that she will succeed.

This year, for the first time at Doris, my partner Chris Gilchrist, assisted by Gwill Wright, held daily Quarterstaff sessions – which were much appreciated by blokes who feel a bit left out from workshops like belly dancing. Quarterstaff is a British martial art www.quarterstaff.org -- resurrected by Chris and his friends at Cambridge university in the 1970s. It involves moves, passes, flourishes and sparring with big sticks and aims at creating poise, discipline and depth of understanding of the way of the warrior.

Chris (pictured above) “discovered” the Fes Festival via an article in The Daily Telegraph. We turned up for the first time in 2003 and fell immediately under the Fes spell. I thank Chris for many things – most importantly his love and companionship – but also for bringing the Fes Festival into my life and coming with me almost every year to enjoy it.

There is a more subtle link between Doris and Fes which rests in their shared foundations in spiritual awareness. While Fes celebrates the sacred with performance, Doris insists on experience. Nothing illustrated this more vividly this year than a five hour lila led by the formidable Algerian Berber dance teacher Amel Tafsout (pictured below)

Anyone who arrived at the Dome tent at 8.00pm expecting just to learn how to spin like a dervish was in for a big surprise. Amel’s role as a dance teacher is rooted in her devotion to the Sufi path – and her knowledge of how to put it into practice. Superficially she teaches dance – at a deeper level she teaches esoteric insight. Amel led us through a series of powerful breath and movement exercises, explaining along the way that the aim of the evening was to introduce us to the trance state.

As the emphasis on this increased, several people dropped out. Those of us who stayed learned to spin and find our still point in the process. It was not at all easy to do this on rugs laid over slightly sloping meadow grass – and I regretted the two glasses of wine I’d had with my supper. Finally we moved into hadra – inducing and experiencing an altered state of consciousness generically described as trance. I am sure it was different for each individual. In my case the “letting go” aspect seemed similar to Chaos in Five Rhythms Dance -- but the effect was different. A very relaxed, comforting bliss state. It was past midnight when we dispersed.

My last and most unexpected Fassi connection happened in the Saffron Kitchen curry tent on Sunday night while the Celebration Party was in progress. I’d seen a couple I vaguely recognised while we were part of the circle enjoying the fun. But when Christopher and Sonia walked into the curry tent, the penny dropped. They were in Fes in 2006 and took part in the healing ceremony Chris my partner and our friend the journalist Peter Culshaw organised for me with Shiekh Said Guissi and the Aissawa Sufi brotherhood.

I was happy to report “so far, so good” with my cancer treatment.

Sonia told me that she too, is in love with Fes: “I’d buy a house in the medina to-morrow – but we have four children and they’re all still at school.”


Tags:

Beating the heat in Fez



On one of the hottest days of the summer, Fred Sola from Riad Laaroussa decided to take some of his guests to the top of Mount Zalagh to escape the heat and enjoy the sunset. The View from Fez tagged along with our camera and although the air was rather dusty and smoky, the view was spectacular - and the cool air much appreciated.

Sean, from America made a video of the entire experience, while Mo put his professional photographic skills to good use.

Mo
Also on board were Mary and Jason from Melbourne in Australia. It is hard to imagine a more complete contrast than Fez and Melbourne, but the couple were enthralled by their experience. Back in Melbourne Mary works in business in the city while Jason runs a well known cafe and as a food lover was also enjoying Moroccan cuisine.


Mary in the cool wind on Mt Zalagh

Sean enjoying a local wine

The top of Mount Zalagh can only be walked up or reached with a four wheel drive. The road itself is unsealed and rocky, but the effort is certainly worth it as the eagle views are stunning.

The Medina of Fez seemed like a toy city nestled far below and as the dusk deepened and the last light of the sun faded the lights below started to come on transforming the view. It was indeed a wonderful evening


Mo edits his photos while (below) Jason and Mary toast to their great trip


Tags:

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Faces in the Medina


Abby & Alex visit The View from Fez

The hot weather of August does not seem to have deterred intrepid travellers and the Medina is buzzing with tour parties from Spain and Italy in particular. The Hotel Batha feels like a slice of Barcelona at the moment and the 40 degree temperatures (Celsius) have made the pool a real favourite.

Most of the better riads and dars that rent rooms appear to be at full capacity and there are also a large number of ex-pat Moroccans visiting home. Local villages, especially those up in the mountains around Fez are packed with Moroccans. Visiting Ifran and Azrou today to check out the Tuesday Souq, I was surprised by just how many video camera wielding Moroccans were also hunting out the superb carpets on sale

Abby and Alex ( pictured above) have been enjoying the hospitality at Dar El Hana. The couple from London say they are glad that they allocated time to Fez and will spend more time here on their next trip. What was pleasurable about meeting them was that, unlike many casual tourists, they had done their homework and even in a short time had acute observations to make about the Medina and its unique way of life.

We hope they return soon.

Tags:

Saturday, August 25, 2007

Morocco's marching season begins.


Morocco's parliamentary race kicked off today with the start of the two-week-long official election campaign period, marked by a flurry of rallies big and small.



In Fez ,we caught up with one small rally, but, as a local policeman commented "These are mainly young men paid to hand out pamphlets. They wouldn't have a political thought in their heads."

A local businessman, who asked not to be named, claimed that poor young men were enlisted to participate and the going rate was one hundred dirhams per day. Marchers who we spoke to denied they were being paid. They also pointed out that they were not representing a political party but were, in fact, urging people to vote.

This may be a difficult task as the scepticism amongst young Moroccans is very strong. Distrust of politicians is widespread and has little to do with political factions. As one disaffected woman said, "They are all liars and promises never become real."


More than 30 parties are expected to take part in the elections, but if the early polls are to be believed, the opposition Justice and Development Party, or PJD, appear to have an early lead. The party, which was formed from various small islamist groups back in 1998, rose to prominence in the last parliamentary elections in 2002, winning 42 seats in the outgoing lower house.

A recent survey by the CSA and LMS polling agencies suggests Justice and Development would take 19 percent of the vote, compared to 15 percent for the establishment Istiqlal, or Independence, party, and 14 percent for the center-left Socialist Union of Popular Forces, or USFP, which together dominate the current governing coalition.

The poll of 1,200 people, which appeared Friday in the Almassae newspaper, had a margin of error between 1.7-2.8 percent.

According to the International Herald Tribune, 69 percent of those surveyed said they planned to vote. However, as we have reported earlier, in the 2002 race, only 50 percent of registered voters cast their ballots and of those, some 17 percent were blank protest votes. The maths is not encouraging.


The IHT states that a dozen observers from the Washington D.C. based National Democratic Institute will be on hand for the upcoming vote.

Morocco's secularist King Mohamed VI, who names the government and still wields ultimate power in the country, has spoken out on the need for electoral transparency and to fight against vote-buying — which overshadowed the 2002 race and has flared up before September's vote.

Over the past few weeks, Moroccan authorities have announced they were bringing charges against dozens of people accused of vote buying and other violations of the electoral code.

Tags:

The Moroccan election campaign.

The Bush administration loves to highlight Morocco's political progress as a bright spot in an otherwise unrepentantly autocratic Middle East—and Morocco's young king is basking in the glow. Next month's election will be a multifaceted test. Among other things, it will gauge the popularity of Morocco's Islamist Party of Justice and Development and reveal whether top-down reforms, emanating from a centralized monarchy, can produce meaningful democratization. The burning question, though, is how many Moroccans will even bother to vote. What if you build a democracy and nobody comes? - Slate.

What happens if you hold an election and nobody comes?
This was the headline of an article by Tamara Cofman Wittes, writing for the online journal Slate - and she has a point. When you take a look behind the rhetoric about an engaged electorate, it is clear that voter turnout has been trending downward in every election since the democratization push began in 2002. Back then only just over 50% of registered voters took the trouble to vote and of those who did, 17 percent cast blank protest ballots.

Off the record conversations with representatives of the parties and even some Moroccan officials indicates that they are concerned that the electorate is disengaged and that the actual turn out on September 7th will be embarrassingly low. According to the Slate article, the government is so concerned about citizen participation that it launched a nationwide effort to sign up new voters—but the campaign achieved barely half its goal of 3 million new registrants. About 79 percent of the eligible population is now signed up and able, in principle, to vote.

As preparations for the coming legislative elections scheduled for September 7 gather pace in Morocco, political parties are unveiling their programs and promises for the five years to come. But economy and employment seem to be a top concern in every camp, though the modus operandi differs.

The Socialist Union for Popular Forces (USFP), a party member of the actual government coalition, pledges two million jobs by 2012, in a country where a huge cohort of some 600,000 young degree holders join the job market every year, and where, as was recalled by the party's First Secretary Mohamed El Yazghi, only 150,000 jobs are available.

USFP, which participates in government since 1998 after three decades in the opposition, also prioritizes what Mr. El Yazghi calls "social gender". "We plan to create a ministry and a higher council to serve as a watchdog in terms of equality and administrative services," he said in a recent interview with Maghreb Arabe Presse ( MAP). It's like a follow-up of the policy opted for by our government, said the Minister of Environment.

A good performance of the economy appears also among the targets of the Istiqlal (independence) party (PI). But the approach is more specified. For the PI leader, Abbas El Fassi, the objective is clear: a growth rate of 6% (excluding agriculture, the Moroccan economy achieved a growth rate of 8% in 2006); a poverty rate pegged down two percentage point, if the party wins elections.

By 2012, the PI (government coalition) will reduce the jobless rate to less than 7%, instead of 10% today, while maintaining inflation at 2% and making 80% of the 30 million Moroccans benefit from medical coverage.

For the newly created Moroccan Union for Democracy (UMD), which engages in the coming elections under the banner of “Economic liberalism and social solidarity” accelerating the growth rate of the economy is the only remedy to the situation.

“It is imperative to settle the problems of employment and poverty,” UMD head, Abdellah Azmani told MAP. This can be done through an array of socio-economic-based measures able to guarantee social stability and “accelerate the economic and social development pace in our country.”

The Environment and Development Party (PED) shares about the same concerns with the other parties, with a clear environment-oriented approach. “The PED will endeavor to achieve a genuine economic take-off, and to encourage social justice, based on environment, which was erected as a priority in our electoral program,” the party’s leader said.

Ahmed Alami insisted on developing and diversifying the national economy in order, he said, to reach a sustainable growth rate, and thus curb the unemployment rate and encourage investments.

To remain true to its vocation, the PED provides for enacting laws that protect natural resources, introduce the environment in the economic and social equations. It also pledges controlling and rationalizing the use of chemical products.

Tax cuts seem, however, a particularity of the USFP and IP programs. The socialist party promises to slash income taxes and to create a tax that will be imposed on middle-size businesses. It sets it at 25%. As to the Istiqlal party (right), it proposes to cut the personal income tax imposed on middle-class worker to 35% down from 40% at present. The Istiqlal also pledges to gradually curb the VAT from 20% to 18% by 2012.

Morocco counts over 30 political parties that will compete for the 325 seats of the House of Representatives. The September 7 polls, which will be followed, for the first time, by national and international observers, are open to 15,510,505 eligible voters. The electoral campaign is scheduled to start today ( August 25 ) and will last until the eve of the elections day.

So how will Moroccans vote - if indeed they do? Here is Tamara Cofman Wittes analysis: ... most members of parliament (with the notable exception of the Islamist opposition) don't even bother to show up when the body is in session. Instead, some use their parliamentary status and the legal immunity it grants them to advance their own narrow interests and sometimes to cover criminal activity. In this environment, the most rational Moroccan voters may well be those who give their ballot endorsements in direct exchange for the cash or food some candidates all but openly offer.

If she is correct then Moroccan democracy is in a fragile state with voter dissatisfaction gaining ground as they sense that the democratic institutions have little substantive authority, and citizens' preferences, as expressed at the ballot box, rarely have much impact on government policy. The citizen alienation that results threatens to undermine the credibility of the nascent democratic process.

Voter dissatisfaction has been seized on by the Islamist parties who have a track record of being able to muster their followers into the voting booths. This is a scenario that clearly worries, not only the King, but also the business elites who have been enjoying a boom time. In response they have a well organised campaign aimed at increasing the middle-class vote. But it may not be enough to curb the growing reach of the Islamist PJD who some commentators expect to do well. If this eventuates it leaves the King in an difficult situation. While calls to strengthen the parliament and reduce his own power situation grow he may well find himself tempted to direct a minority coalition to form government. If he does, then faith in the fledgling democratic process will suffer and those unhappy at the pace of change may well decide to seek it through less democratic means. That outcome would be a tragedy for Morocco.

Tags:

Friday, August 24, 2007

Josephine Kwan - Dar El Hana


The host of Dar El Hana has just returned the Fes Medina. Josephine Kwan ( she of the wicked laugh) is back from what sounds like a wonderful holiday in Australia. It was interesting that guests who visited during Josephine's absence in Australia noted in the guest-book that they were sorry to have missed her, having heard such good things about her. Well - she is back, now, so why not make a return visit?



We caught up with Josephine at Thami's "My favourite street food place". Not only was she thrilled to be back, but was looking forward to getting involved in all the extras that Fez has to offer. Lets hope she gets enough spare time.

Thami's near the Bab Boujeloud

Dar El Hana occasionally has a vacancy - if you are lucky.

Bookings: Fes Riads

Details

email: moroccangetaway@gmail.com
website: www.moroccangetaway.com


The Moroccan elections - the campign starts.


The election campaign for the September 7 elections starts tomorrow (August 25) and the judiciary has been mobilized to protect against fraud and preserve the individual and common rights, according to the First President of the Supreme Court, Driss Dehhak.

"The judiciary is mobilized to play its role in preserving citizens' rights and the legality of the elections that should be transparent and serene", said Mr. Dehhak at the end of a meeting on "elections and judiciary control."

This meeting was an opportunity to highlight the role of the judiciary in moralizing public life in general and political life in particular, he added.

Legislative elections will be held in Morocco, on September 7, to renew the Parliament that is made up of a 325-member House of Representatives elected directly for a five-year term, and a 270-member House of Advisors whose members are indirectly elected for a nine-year term by two sets of electoral colleges.

The upcoming elections will be held in 95 electoral districts compared to 91 during the 2002 elections. This increase is mainly due to evolution of Morocco’s administrative and communal map.

For his part, the Supreme Court Prosecutor Taieb Cherkaoui said magistrates shouldsee to it that law be respected to preserve the noble democratic objective of elections to guarantee their credibility and honesty.

In a nationwide speech marking the 54th anniversary of the Revolution of the King and the People, king Mohammed VI said the judiciary has a “decisive part to play in preserving the sanctity of elections, in fighting all forms of corruption,” calling on the magistrates to “make sure the entire electoral process is consistent with the law.”

He made it clear that “the principle of the separation of powers should be fully respected, and judges must see to it the rule of law prevails in all circumstances.”

Last week, a joint press release from the Ministries of Interior and Justice revealed that 142 election-related offences have been brought, so far, before the examining judge. These include pre-electoral campaigns, the purchase of votes, and the use the state and local authority means. Other cases relate to the use of violence and threats against voters, and the disrespect of election regulations.

One of the most publicized cases is that of the Mayor of the capital, Omar El Bahraoui who already appeared before court on charges of "pre-electoral campaign," "use of the city hall's means to influence the electorate," "electoral promises," but his trial was postponed sine die. He was arrested while holding a meeting at his home attended by some 80 people.

The September 7 elections will be followed, for the first time, by national and international observers. A recent report published by “the International Mission of Preliminary Assessment” of Morocco's legislative elections concluded that the electoral environment in Morocco is marked by "several positive elements," noting the "sustainable effort" of the major political parties in order to be distinct from one another through their political programs addressing specific issues and competitive campaigns based on the electorate's interests.

According to figures of the Ministry of the Interior, some 15,510,505 eligible voters are expected to go to polls during these elections. The electoral campaign is scheduled to start on August 25 and will last until the eve of the elections day.

Our contributor Karima comments about the way ordinary Moroccans feel about the elections. According to Karima it is a hot topic.
Morocco election campaign 2007 will start tomorrow, the 25th of August. This is the main topic of gossip all along the streets Moroccan towns and cities. There are at least 30 political parties preparing themselves for the struggle to win votes. Now each one of them will try to convince as many citizens as possible to vote for them, and this is the hard part of this game –how to make people trust and choose them to be their political leaders.

Being a higher power of all these parties, His Highness Mohammed the sixth has insisted that these elections have to be clear and honest. He is trying successfully to change the fate of his kingdom for the better. Every single citizen is aware of the hard work his majesty is doing to improve Morocco economical, political and social situation, for this reason a majority of Moroccans are ready to work hard for the good of their country.


Tags:

A Moroccan Sufi Brotherhood in Fez


Along with the Gnawa and the Aïssawa, the Hamadcha are one of the three most important so-called ‘popular’ Sufi brotherhoods in Morocco. The Hamadcha brotherhood was founded by Saint Sidi Ali Ben Hamdouch in the seventeenth century, and has become famous through the originality of its repertoire, its spellbinding dances, and the trance-therapy skills of its members.

We have recently had a flurry of emails asking about the on-line presence of the Hamadcha and although we have published it before, here is a reminder.

The link THE HAMADCHA SUFIS - will take you to the site authored by Frédéric Calmès, a musician specializing in Arabic music as well as a student and a researcher in anthropology at the Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales in Paris.

He has lived in Fez for about six years and studied with the Hamadcha Sufi brotherhood led by the moqaddem (leader) Abderrahim Amrani Marrakchi.

Frédéric Calmès (photo Sandy McCutcheon)

A video of the Hamadcha is here: http://www.hamadcha-fez.com/video-en.htm

Tags:

Fez cats see the end of an era.


Many folk who wander the streets of Fez have quaint names for various unofficial landmarks. The Street of a Thousand Thieves, Cafe Seven & 1/2 and of course, The Step of a Thousand Cats.

On a recent meander up The Hill of Mice, I turned right to head to the Talaa Sghira only to find that the door above The Step of a Thousand Cats was gone - replaced by a large single slab of concrete. And there was not a single mangy pussy in sight.


Those who know the spot will also know that the step was the entrance to a "public ablutions facility" for tourists. A wash room. A toilet. But it was more than that. Inside, in a chair, sat an eccentric gentleman whose preoccupation in life was cats. He fed and provided shelter for hundreds of stray alley cats. In the process he also provided a great talking point for the many visitors who stopped by.

The famous step (photo Rebecca Raft)

Now he is gone. So too are the cats. In addition the "tourist circuit" also has one less toilet break on its route around the Medina. All of which will be missed, not least of all by the cats.


Tags:

Thursday, August 23, 2007

Connection problems


Things are looking up - the internet is back! (click on image for better view!)

Just a quick note to say that we are sorry for not updating Fez information for the last few days. We had an unexpected internet outage and had to wait through two days of national holidays plus a third day when Maroc Telecom's systems were down before connecting again.

On the good side of things, we can report the our resident chameleon Ghengis II is alive, well and enjoying a diet of flies prewarmed to 36 degrees Celsius by the wonderful summer weather.



Tags:

Friday, August 17, 2007

Press Freedom rolled back - again

A Moroccan court sentenced a journalist to eight months in prison on Wednesday and gave a suspended six-month sentence to his boss for publishing intelligence information warning of terrorist attacks by al-Qaida.

Two journalists from the weekly newspaper Al Watan Al An, Mustafa Hormatallah and publisher Abderrahim Ariri were convicted by a criminal court in Casablanca for "concealing items derived from a crime" and each fined the equivalent of $120 for publishing an article in July on the heightened state of security in Morocco. The reports were based on leaked military documents. Following the verdict, Ariri said they would appeal the decision.

The verdicts are the first prison term for a Moroccan journalist in four years, and were immediately condemned by other Moroccan journalists.

The secretary general of the Moroccan Press Syndicate, Younes Moujahid, called the verdict "unacceptable" and a "threat to all journalists"

The president of the Morocco's association of press editors, Abdelmounaim Dilami, says the two journalists were expecting an acquittal. He described the sentence as harsh.

He said he did not expect the sentence to be that severe because in reality the prosecution's evidence was questionable. He said, in his opinion, these accusations are not logical or sensible.

Human rights groups monitoring the trial reported that the only evidence brought forth by the prosecution was the publication of the newspaper story. Dilami says he expects the verdict will be overturned by an appeals court.

Al Watan Al An is frequently critical of the Moroccan authorities. In March, the paper published a story that criticized the king for failing to cooperate with the Moroccan press.

Morocco's press is considered to be one of the freest in the Arab world, but recent crack-downs on independent publications have raised concerns that press freedoms are sliding backwards.

The Committee on the Protection of Journalists reports that since 2005, at least five Moroccan journalists have been hit with hefty fines related to defamation charges and one was banned from practicing journalism altogether.

Last week, Moroccan authorities seized the current affairs magazine Tel Quel and its sister publication Nichance. The editor was charged with disrespecting Morocco's King Mohammed in an editorial. The court case is scheduled for next week.

The last time a journalist was sentenced to a prison was for a similar offense of insulting the monarchy in June 2003.

Tags:

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Failed bombing attempt in Meknes


The thirty year old bomber, Hicham Dokkali, who attempted to blow up a tourist bus in Meknes on Monday ended up being badly injured and failed to blow up the bus carrying westerners. Police said the bus driver had prevented the man from entering the bus before a gas canister he was carrying blew up. The bomber was seen raising his index finger in an apparent signal that he was asking God to accept him as a martyr, before the explosion tore off his left hand and he fell to the ground. According to police sources Dokkali was an engineer in the tax office of Meknes.

Another source claims that the bomber, who was heading towards the bus in a densely populated neighbourhood - Sahat Lahdim square, a favourite spot for tourists in Meknes - could not attain his goal thanks to the vigilance of the driver.

The would-be bomber lost his arm following the blast and was carried to the hospital in a serious condition. The incident left no victims or material losses. Moroccan security services have opened an investigation and are currently looking for two other individuals who were seen talking to the man prior to the incident.

Citing security sources, the official news agency MAP described the attack as "an isolated and desperate attempt". According to Reuters, the authorities suspect the bomber is a member of the radical Islamist Jihadia group.

TOURIST NUMBERS RISE

At the same time, authorities announced an increase in tourist numbers to the country.

Around 2,85 million tourists visited Morocco in the first half of 2007, that is a 9% rise compared with the same period of last year according to figures from the Department of Tourism.

The French topped the list with about 1.1 million tourists, followed by the Spanish (594,000), the British (208,000), the Belgian (129,000), the German (124.000), and the Italians (121,000).

The number of Arab tourists who visited Morocco during the period under review grew by 7% as against the same period a year before, with 116,000 tourists.

Tourist nights in classified hotels posted an 8 % increase, reaching 8,35 million nights.

The Department noted that Marrakech remains atop the list of highly visited tourist destinations with +11%, followed by Casablanca (+10%), Meknes with 9%, Fez and Rabat with +8%, and Agadir (+4%).

Morocco has developed an ambitious strategy, dubbed "Vision 2010", aimed at attracting 10 million tourists by 2010. This strategy provides for creating 160,000 beds, thus bringing the national capacity to 230,000 beds. It also aims to create some 600,000 new jobs.

Tags:

Monday, August 13, 2007

Jewish Moroccan cooking.


photo: Angela Brkic
"In Morocco, Jewish cooking is still rated as one of the four best styles in the country, on the level of those of Fez, Tetouan and Marrakech." -Claudia Roden

When we came across a restaurant review which included the quote above, we began wondering is the great Claudia Roden right? We would love to hear what you think. Here is part of the review of an Australian restaurant. the reviewer was Helen Greenwood. It was published in the Sydney Morning Herald and described the cuisine as "middle-eastern" - oops.

Moroccan Feast suggests an evening of home-cooked abundance, redolent with spices, full of "contrast and surprises", to quote the wonderful food writer Claudia Roden. But the voice on the phone sounds more Israeli than North African.

Unable to resist, I put the question.
"Yes," says the voice, which belongs to Yariv Rozen, "I'm from Israel but my father came from Morocco and I also have two Jewish Moroccan ladies in the kitchen."

So what is the difference between Moroccan and Moroccan-Jewish food?
"It's all Jewish," Rozen says. He's only partly joking.

Roden says: "In Morocco, Jewish cooking is still rated as one of the four best styles in the country, on the level of those of Fez, Tetouan and Marrakech."


Moroccan Feast may be Jewish at heart but its decor is very much Marrakech. There are mosaic-tiled table tops and mosaic-style painted plates on the walls. Spice-coloured fabrics cover the banquettes, delicate metal fretwork frames mirrors and make wall sconces.
Coloured lanterns hang from the ceilings and wrought-iron screens are on the floor.


Tags:

US grants Morocco US$697.5 million to boost growth


The Board of Directors of the Millennium Challenge Corporation (MCC) approved an , the biggest amount ever granted by this US Development Fund, the official news agency, MAP, reported here.

This assistance, spread over five years, is aimed at stimulating economic growth by increasing productivity and improving employment in high potential sectors.

It will help increase Morocco's GNP by about US$118 million per annum aimed at benefiting directly 600,000 Moroccan families, MAP said.

An amount of US$300.9 million will be allotted to arboriculture projects stretching over thousands of hectares in the north, centre and south of Morocco to improve the growing of fruit trees.

An allocation of US$116.17 million will be devoted to the modernisation of all small-scale fishing activities, the creation of twenty or so landing an reception points along the Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts, in addition to the construction or rehabilitation of fish halls and wholesale markets in several ports.

The assistance also provides for an amount of US$111.87 million for the promotion of a project called "artisan and the Medina of Fes" aimed at valorising ties between the sectors of handicrafts and tourism.

Some US$46.2 million will be devoted to the improvement of the financial services offered to small-scale enterprises and help micro credit associations to restructure to offer to their clients other services than loans, while US$33.85 million will support enterprises providing for the reduction of unemployment among young graduates.

An amount of about US$88.5 million will be devoted to the monitoring of these programmes, MAP adds.

To benefit from this assistance from the Millennium account, candidate countries must adopt measures in the area of governance, health, education and the economy.


Tags:

Thursday, August 09, 2007

Moroccan press freedom - update



Back at the beginning of the week we broke the news ( read it here) about the latest sad developments in regard to freedom of the press in Morocco. Our good friend Jillian York has a good round-up of commentators on the news. Read it here: Global Voices

Tags:

Morocco has moved?

From now on, adjust your maps... according to the British Satellite News site... Morocco is in the middle east... (yawn) When will they start teaching geography in British schools again?


MIDDLE EAST MUSIC COMES TO THE UK

Category: Culture
London

The beautiful sounds of music from Morocco is filling the courtyards outside the famous British Library; site of a major exhibition on the world’s great religions and religious scripts.


SUGGESTED INTRO:
The British Library in London has once again turned its piazza into a public open space for a week of lunchtime and evening concerts . There's a spiritual theme this year to coincide with a major exhibition on the world’s great sacred scripts and religions..

SCRIPT:
A stone's throw from the urban rush of London's Euston Road something spiritual was happening.

In the Piazza of the British Library the statue showed Isaac Newton undisturbed from his contemplation of mathematical matters. And the audience was gathering from this part of the city to be transported for a moment, away from the busy labours of their own lives.

SOT: (English Speech) super: Heather Norman, British Library
"We have got a very special group. the Sayed Temsamani Group .They have come over from Morocco and they are really a star attraction of the Fes festival of sacred music that takes place in Fes in Morocco every year. And we are very lucky to have them.They are co-sponsored by the British/Morocco Society and the British Library."

"And the sort of music play, what is it?"

"Well it's called Sufic music and it comes from the Islamic tradition.It is an expression of the Divine and you have to hear it to appreciate it. So it ties in , of course, with our major exhibition on Judaism, Christianity and Islam. "

The sound of sufi is to bring people closer to inner truths.


Hopefully someone will point out that there are geographic truths as well!

Tags:

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Fes Festival of World Sacred Music - BREAKING NEWS!


Fes Festival of World Sacred Music
All change again?


The Director General of The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music and The Spirit of Fes Foundation has resigned after less than a year in the job. Naima Lahbil Tagemouati– a former professor of Economics and a champion of the Fes medina heritage – was appointed in 2007, following the departure of the founder of the festival, Faouzi Skali.

Rumours of bitter rows at senior management level and resignations by key team members circulated widely after the 2006 festival. By the time Faouzi Skali’s resignation was announced, it came as no surprise to both Moroccans and other nationalities working with the festival on both a voluntary and paid basis.

There has been no official announcement of Mme Lahbil’s resignation, but she has confirmed that she is leaving. So far facts behind this development have not been revealed and no explanations have been offered.

Naima Lahbil took on the job of making the 2007 festival happen at a stage when the organisation was in considerable disarray. During her short time at the helm she earned the respect of many people connected with the festival and was admired for her informal management style.

Another significant change is the return of Gerard Kurdjian as Artistic Director. He held this position from the start of the festival in 1994, but was replaced by Cherif Khaznadar, the founder of La Maison des Cultures du Monde in Paris, for the 2006 and 2007 festivals.

Clearly more developments within the festival organisation will emerge in due course. The View From Fez will keep you updated as and when they are revealed.

Tags:

Monday, August 06, 2007

Press Freedom.. Moroccan style?

Morocco's government has once again ignited the press freedom debate. They have seized copies of two current affairs magazines containing articles which it claims showed a lack of respect for King Mohammed and harmed public morals.

And again it is the "usual suspects" in the firing line. The very brave Ahmed Reda Benchemsi, who is editor of Tel Quel and its sister publication Nichane (Forthright), was called for questioning by Casablanca police late on Saturday under orders from the judiciary.

A reporter at Nichane, who asked not to be named, said Benchemsi had questioned the usefulness of parliamentary elections next month in a country where the monarchy wields ultimate power.

In his annual speech to the nation on July 30, the king said he hoped the September 7 polls would reinforce democracy, and he would oppose anyone who questioned their validity.

The ministry said Nichane had also published articles questioning the Prophet Mohammad and damaging public morals and good manners.

"The prime minister expresses ... his profound indignation at these lapses, which are against the law, the moralisation of public life and the restructuring of the media landscape ...," the prime minister's office said.

The reporter said Benchemsi had been released by police and was back at home on Sunday morning. It was not clear whether he was still being investigated.

It was the second time in a year that the authorities had seized Nichane, a weekly magazine rare for being written in Morocco's local Derija dialect and which regularly takes government officials to task and tests the limits of free speech.

Its former editor, Driss Ksikes, stepped down after it was banned for two months for publishing popular jokes about Islam, sex and politics.

He and a reporter on the publication were both given suspended three-year jail terms.

Morocco's press is widely seen as freer than others in the Arab world but red lines remain which, when overstepped, can land journalists before a judge.

Criticising the king, questioning his role as guardian of Islam and casting doubt on Morocco's claim to the disputed territory of Western Sahara can all lead to a spell in prison.

Tags:

Sunday, August 05, 2007

Another road accident... now Fez

Six people died on Thursday in a road accident in Fes.

According to local authorities, the accident occurred when a truck, coming from Ifran overturned in its attempt to avoid a dangerous bend.

The vehicle mowed down two pedestrians, caused the death of four passengers, and injured two others.

On July 31, three people were killed and 43 were injured, including 19 seriously, in a road accident when a coach overturned in the western city of Settat.

Over the past decade, road accidents in Morocco increased at a yearly basis of 3%, causing enormous economic losses. They cost the State about USD 1.2 billion a year, that is 2.5% of the GDP.



Tags:

Saturday, August 04, 2007

Dar El Ghalia



Lumen was out and about on the town last night. Photographer Tom Fakler came along too, to sample the cuisine (and take photos) at Dar El Ghalia in R'cif.

And a very pleasant evening it was too. Although they were the only guests (August being such a quiet month in Fez), the View from Fez team were made to feel very welcome by the attentive staff and could choose between dining on the terrace or in the salon. It was a very hot evening, so the air-conditioning in the salon appealed and it was very comfortable.

Settling in with a couple of bottles of water, Lumen and Tom perused the menu and chose a bottle of Halana Merlot at Dh150. There are three menus to choose from, ranging from Dh400 to Dh550 (though it's Dh50 less for guesthouse residents). These menus provide seven imaginative salads, followed by a tagine including the house speciality of 'm'hammer', lamb shank cooked with tomatoes and peppers, various chicken tagines and couscous. There's also a fish dish, which is unusual for a guesthouse restaurant. Dessert can be pastilla au lait or fresh fruit, honeyed baghrir or mhancha.

The best thing about this menu is that you can order a la carte, which is good news if you're all tagined-out. There is a wide variety of salads to choose from at Dh40 each; grills such as merguez at Dh110; couscous at Dh140; the wonderful Marrakech dish tride at Dh160; pigeon pastilla at Dh160 and even mechoui at Dh230, but these last need to be ordered in advance. There are various chicken dishes, couscous of course, and the fresh fish of the day.

The View from Fez chose just three salads of serrouda (beans cooked in a spiced tomato sauce), macerated aubergine and courgettes poached with cinnamon. These were served with delicious individual fresh loaves of bread. The harira just had to be sampled, and it turned out to be quite the best ever. Tom then tucked into the lamb m'hammer, which he said was beautifully cooked with plenty of meat, and perfectly spiced. Lumen tried the lamb cutlets served with aubergine caviar - these were tender and cooked to perfection. Dessert was a shared plate of tiny crepes with a fig conserve studded with plump almonds.
The bill for two (without tea or coffee) came to Dh758 including the wine. A 10% tip is automatically added to the bill.

Dar El Ghalia's restaurant is definitely to be recommended - imaginative Moroccan food, delicately yet decisively spiced, and with a good choice on the menu.



Tags:

Wednesday, August 01, 2007

Madeleine McCann - further update.



Like many websites in this part of the world, we receive regular requests to continue publicising the plight of the missing Madeleine McCann. However, it should be pointed out that the links to Morocco that emerged in the investigation are tenuous and after investigation proved to be of little value. There are also some sites that have complained about what they see as the "Madeleine Conspiracy" or even the Madeleine industry - that is sites that are attempting to profit from the tragedy. If true, that is frankly disgusting. However, we do feel for the family and are happy to provide the following links for Arabic speaking readers.

هل بإمكانكم مساعدتنا رجاءً؟ فتاة صغيرة تدعى (مادلين ماكان) تبلغ من العمر 4 أعوام، اختُطفت من غرفة أحد فنادق "برايا دا لوز" في البرتغال، في الثالث من أيار/مايو 2007.
ما من أثر لها منذ ذلك الحين، لكن أحدهم أبلغ عن رؤية فتاة بمواصفاتها في محطة وقود بمدينة مراكش. لديها علامة فارقة في عينها اليمنى، وهو ما يسهّل عملية التعرّف عليها. تخبر عائلتها قصة اختطافها على الموقع الإلكتروني الرسمي المعني بقصتها، وهو www.findmadeleine.com

نودّ أولاً أن نعبّر عن امتناننا للترحيب الحار والصادق الذي لقيه والداها أثناء الزيارة الرسمية التي قاما بها إلى المغرب في 11 حزيران/يونيو. هناك عدد متزايد من الناس من كافة أنحاء العالم، يرغبون بمساعدة (مادلين) في العودة إلى أحضان عائلتها، وأنا واحد من عدة متطوعين يعملون ضمن مجموعة تعرف باسم "المساعدة في العثور على مادلين". نعلم أن الشعب المغربي بذل ولا يزال يبذل جهده في محاولة العثور على (مادلين)، ونتمنى عليكم مساعدتنا في هذه الجهود.

نسألكم مساعدتنا في تحميل صور (مادلين) من الموقع الإلكتروني الخاص بها، وطباعتها وعرضها في متاجركم ومطاعمكم، وتوزيعها على كل من تعرفونه. نعرف أن المغرب بلد مقصود جداً من قبل السياح، لذا نأمل في أن يرى هذه الصور أكبر عدد ممكن من الناس من كافة أنحاء العالم.

تجدون أدناه الرابط المباشر إلى ملصق (مادلين)، باللغتين الفرنسية والعربية.

http://www.findmadeleine.com/pdf/French.pdf

http://www.findmadeleine.com/pdf/Arabic.pdf

نرجو منكم أيضاً أن تضعوا صورة لعلامة (مادلين) الفارقة على الصفحة الرئيسية من مواقعكم الإلكترونية، وربطها مباشرة بموقعها الإلكتروني الرسمي. سوف تكون هذه طريقة مثالية لتعريف العالم بأسره بوجه (مادلين).

إن شاهدتم أو عرفتم أي شيء يتعلق بمكانها، يرجى الاتصال بشعبة مكافحة الجرائم في بريطانيا على الرقم:
00441883731336 - 0044 1883 731 336
أو الاتصال بفرع الشرطة المحلي في بلدكم.

تبلغ مكافأة العثور عليها 2.5 مليون جنيه إسترليني.

جميعنا في العالم نملك رغبة مشتركة وهي الحفاظ على سلامة وحماية أطفالنا. ما هي أفضل طريقة لفعل ذلك؟ أن نجعل الخاطفين يدركون أن الأهالي والأشخاص الراشدين الذين يرغبون في حماية الأطفال، سيضافرون الجهود ويتواصلون عبر العالم من أجل حماية أطفالنا. الرجاء المساعدة في جهودنا هذه.

إن كنتم تملكون أي أفكار أخرى، يرجى إعلامنا بها. نحن ممتنون لجميع الأشخاص المحبين واللطفاء الذين قدموا لنا مساعدتهم، كبيرة كانت أم صغيرة. نود أن نعرب لكم عن امتناننا العميق لمساندتكم ولأي مساعدة يمكن أن تقدموها. نتمنى عليكم أخيراً أن تؤكدوا لنا استلامكم لهذه الرسالة.

نشكركم مجدداً.

مع أصدق التحيات،

فريق المساعدة في العثور على مادلين


Tags:

Tourism drop off

Marrakesh is undergoing a marked drop off in tourist numbers and the experts put it all down to fear about security. According to one Reuters report: "A tourism boom that transformed Marrakesh with hotels, apartments and golf courses seems to have paused, and some hotel managers and officials are blaming a rise in activity by Islamic militants."

"The flow of tourists has been shrinking and the authorities refuse to make the numbers public," said a Marrakesh government official who did not want to be named. "The incidents in Casablanca in April were another factor in the trend of falling tourist arrivals because it tainted the image of Morocco."

It is hard to judge if all of Morocco is being effected in the same way, but it is probably reasonable to think so. However, it should be noted that August is often a slow month because of the extremely warm weather.

The advice given to tourists in their own country is often quite intimidating, especially for the cautious tourist. For example, here is what the Australian government says on its website:

Summary

* We advise you to exercise a high degree of caution in Morocco because of the high threat of terrorist attack against Western interests. We continue to receive reports that terrorists are planning attacks against a range of targets, including places frequented by foreigners.

* Pay close attention to your personal security at all times and monitor the media for information about possible new safety or security risks.

* On 6 July, the Moroccan Government increased its security alert level to its highest level. It considers a terrorist attack is imminent.

* Recent credible reports indicate that terrorists may be planning to kidnap foreigners travelling between Morocco and Mauritania.

* Two suicide bombings occurred on 14 April 2007 on Boulevard Moulay Youssel in central Casablanca, one near the Unites States Consulate General and the other outside the American Language Centre. During police raids in Casablanca on 10 April 2007, three suspected terrorists blew themselves up killing one policeman and injuring another. On 11 March 2007, a suspected suicide bombing in Casablanca killed one and injured at least four others. Australians are urged to maintain a high level of vigilance in Casablanca at this time.

* We strongly advise you not to travel to the Western Sahara because of the risk posed by landmines.

* Australia does not have an embassy or consulate in Morocco. The Australian Embassy in Paris provides consular assistance to Australians in Morocco. The Canadian Embassy in Morocco can also provide assistance to Australians.

* Be a smart traveller. Before heading overseas:

* Organise comprehensive travel insurance and check what circumstances and activities are not covered by your policy

*Register your travel and contact details, so we can contact you in an emergency

All that could spell problems for Morocco, once an off-beat destination for the adventurous that is now embracing the era of mass tourism.

Tourism has become Morocco's biggest source of foreign currency, helping offset big trade deficits. Its importance is likely to grow as the government seeks to boost visitor numbers to 10 million by 2010, up from 6.5 million last year.

Open Sky agreements have allowed airlines to shuttle in millions of Europeans, who sunbathe around pools and shop for craftworks in the kingdom's bustling old towns or flock to a growing number of open-air festivals.

Some economists warn there are risks in placing so much reliance on an industry whose chances could be threatened by security scares.

The number of visitors to Marrakesh was up only 1 percent in May, well short of what will be needed to fill the hotels mushrooming across the city and reach the 2010 target.

Recent bookings suggest a drop of between 17 per cent and 50 per cent in occupancy at 24 hotels with four or five stars, according to an official who asked to remain anonymous.

Marrakshis said they were no strangers to tight security, part of everyday life ever since hooded men shot dead two Spanish tourists in one of the city's hotels in 1994.

More recently, roadblocks have been set up at the entrance to big towns and police in blue riot vans watch over Marrakesh's biggest hotels.

But foreign tourists seemed more worried about escaping the searing heat. "Bombings may occur anywhere and at any time, whether in Britain, Spain or elsewhere," said Anna Pitzalis, a 29-year-old Dutch secretary.

"That does not prevent me from visiting this beautiful country."

"Morocco is not Afghanistan, Iraq or Palestine," said 52-year-old Italian Fabricio Corradin.

Tags: