Friday, May 30, 2008

Saturday's concert in Fez.


The second in our the series of Australian Music concerts is set for this Saturday (May 31) at 9pm at Riad Zany. This week it is the amazing Cloudstreet and Rebecca Wright who arrived in Fez on Thursday. There are still seats available for the concert which starts at 9pm. A note to Riad and guest house owners - you are very welcome to bring your guests along.


Nicole Murray & John Thompson


Cloudstreet and Rebecca are in the middle of a European tour and have kindly taken a break to join us in Fez. Cloudstreet are regular performers at major festivals around the world and this is a rare chance to see the premier Australian duo.

Cloudstreet's hot harmonies, dazzling tune playing and high energy performance is a must see. They will be joined by Rebecca who will also do a solo set. Rebecca Wright is one of Australia's foremost young singer-songwriters with an impressive first cd. This is her first tour outside of Australia.

Rebecca Wright

As usual a guide service will be provided from Cinema El Amal at R'cif. Those who do not know the way to Riad Zany, please assemble at Cinema El Amal between 8.45 and 9pm. If you would like to attend simply email fes.riad@gmail.com with your name, number of people in your party and the word "concert" in the email subject line. Entry is by donation (usually a minimum of 50 dirhams - but we allow unemployed free entry).

John, Nic and Bec - finally in Fez!

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Thursday, May 29, 2008

Daylight Saving in Morocco on June 1



A reminder to all our readers that on June 1 Morocco will switch to daylight saving and you will need to switch your clocks forward one hour. This will effect all train, bus and airline timetables so be aware!

Morocco is to save energy by adjusting its clock during summer so it will be one hour ahead of GMT between 1 June and 27 September, according to Communication Minister and Government Spokesman, Khalid Naciri. "This measure will allow us to save energy and to align the time zone with Morocco’s regional and international partners including the EU countries".

According to Public Sector Modernisation, Minister Mohammed Abbou,"The Ministry of Energy and Mining compiled a study on the efficiency of using energy, based on the currently adopted time. The study concluded that should the clock be set one hour ahead during summer, Morocco's consumption of energy will drop by 1%,"

In the 1980s, Morocco used to adjust its clock during the summer time, but later cancelled the process.

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Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Guesthouse owners meeting



Guesthouse owners in Fez are welcome to attend a meeting at 16h00 on Thursday 29 May at the Chamber of Commerce and Industry, 6 Boulevard Chefchaouni (opposite the Grand Hotel).
The meeting will found a new Assemblee Generale de l'Association des Maisons d'Hotes de Fes and elect a new committe to run the Association. The idea is to have a united voice for guesthouse owners that can liaise with the Ministry of Tourism and other authorities. Points of discussion will include the new taxe de sejour of Dh30 per person per night and other issues of interest to guesthouse owners.


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Morocco... not the middle east.


High and dry in dusty Morocco

At just 20-years-old Australian director/producer Kane Christopher (pictured above) is an award winner who is quickly turning heads in the motion picture industry across the globe.

He’s now covered five of the seven continents for his work, recently returning from an exotic shoot of a new music video which took him to Morocco in North-West Africa.

He directed the video for Mountains guitarist, Phil Stormer.

“(Phil’s) beautiful and emotive music influenced me to take this video to Morocco. I wanted to shine a positive light on these middle-eastern countries,” said Kane.
Oops! Did I read that right? Middle eastern... mmm, maybe they don't teach geography in Australian schools. Mind you, the rest of his sentiments were fine....

“It’s so cliche for us to put a negative spin on Arab nations. One thing I have learned in my travels is . . . the simple things in life are often the best . . . and the people in these nations are a testimony to that. I wanted to reflect this thought in Phil’s video.”

Titled ‘Charmer’, the video was shot over four days in some of the most remote locations around the globe. It will be released on YouTube and www.kanechristopher.com on June 21

With a slew of projects in the works which cover everything from a children’s TV series to a feature length documentary, Kane’s camera lenses could be working overtime.

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This week's cultural program at Café Clock in the Fez Medina.


Calligraphy @ the Clock

Once again Clock Culture has a great cultural program at Café Clock. So if you are the Fes Medina or nearby, drop in for a coffee and a spot of culture.

Wednesday 28 May : 10 a.m. – 12 p.m.
Clock Language Conversation Group : Darija
50 Dh ( Discount Vouchers Available)

Thursday 29 May : 8 a.m. – 9: 15 a.m.
Yoga @ the Clock.
50 Dh ( Discount Vouchers Available)

Thursday 29 May : 10 a.m.- 12 p.m.
Clock Language Group : English ( Basic )
50 Dh ( Discount Vouchers Available)

Saturday 31 May : 10 a.m. – 12 p.m.
Clock Language Conversation Group : English
50 Dh ( Discount Vouchers Available)

Saturday 31 May : 10 a.m. – 12 p.m.
Clock Language Conversation Group : French
50 Dh ( Discount Vouchers Available)

Sunday 1 June : 3 – 5 p.m. Calligraphy @ the Clock : Discover the
sacred art of arabic calligraphy with artist and teacher Mohamed
Charkaoui.
(350 dh : Discounts Available)


This weeks highlight Sunday 1 June : 6 p.m. Sunday Sunset Concert Cloud Street and Rebecca Wright. Australian and Celtic Folk. (20 Dh) *Don't miss their major concert at Riad Zany on Saturday night at 9pm. Booking... fes.riad@gmail.com

For more information see : www.cafeclock.com

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Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Campaign to assist unemployed graduates.


Thanks to Global Voices we learn that the Moroccan Bloggers' Association has launched a campaign to draw attention to treatment jobless Moroccan graduates with higher degrees are being subjected to when they protest at the lack of job opportunities.

Unemployment among graduates is high and it is not unusual to meet holders of degrees driving taxis, working in small Medina shops or simply unemployed. Such a waste of young energetic talent is a shame and it is hoped the Moroccan authorities will act to remedy the situation.

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The 14th Fes Festival of World Sacred Music - Links.



Here are the links for the full programme of the upcoming Fez Festival.

Fez Festival Programme in English - 6 to 15 June 2008

CLICK HERE FOR TICKET COLLECTION SERVICE

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A Musician's Moroccan Farewell



Bernard Carney and local lead broom player,
Sanaa play a last song together.

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Jews celebrate in Morocco



Jewish pilgrims from around the world gathered in several Moroccan cities to celebrate the Hiloula of rabbis, a religious and charitable custom, based on the Sephardic tradition of making auction bids for ornate candles believed to help strengthen the soul.

In the coastal city of Essaouira (442km south of Rabat), hundreds gathered on Friday to celebrate the hiloula of rabbi Nessim Ben Nessim. A reception ceremony was organized on Sunday, last day of the festival, attended by the King’s advisor, André Azoulay, himself a Moroccan Jew.

During this ceremony the pilgrims underlined the strong bonds uniting them to Morocco which they described as a country of openness and tolerance and their attachment to the Alaouite throne (dynasty of king Mohammed VI).

In the city of Settat (160 south of Rabat), members of the Jewish community celebrated the hiloula in the mausoleum of rabbi Abraham Aouriour.

The festival opened on Thursday and was marked by the organization on Sunday of a reception ceremony attended by Moroccan officials in the city.

Some 2,000 Moroccan Jews from all over the world also came to the city of Ouezzane (north) to celebrate the religious ceremony in the mausoleum of rabbi Amrane Ben Diwane.

Morocco counts about 5,000 Jews living throughout the country.

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Monday, May 26, 2008

The second Australian concert in Fez!



On Sunday night in Fez Bernard Carney performed two sets to a good sized crowd in Cafe Clock. To his surprise there were a number of New Zealanders present and to their surprise he performed a satirical song about sheep. It was great to see so much audience participation especially from young Moroccans in the audience several of whom enjoyed the music so much they purchased CDs ( much to Bernard's delight).

BC at the Clock

Next week Cloudstreet perform with Rebecca Wright at Riad Zany on Saturday night and at the Clock on Sunday. Remember to book by email: fes.riad@gmail.com


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Sunday, May 25, 2008

The first Australian concert in Fez



For those readers who emailed and asked for photographs of Bernard Carney's concert - voila! We have photographs.




And a reminder, Bernard will be performing at Cafe Clock Sunday evening at 5.30.

Next week in our Fez Concerts at Riad Zany - Cloudstreet with Rebecca Wright.

On May 30/June 1 Cloudstreet (the renowned Australian folk duo) will perform at Riad Zany along with singer songwriter Rebecca Wright. On the Sunday they will perform at Cafe Clock.
Cloudstreet perform hot harmonies & beautiful ballads. This will be their second trip to Fez as guests of The View from Fez. On their last trip they were impressed by the acoustic quality inside the riad and so are very happy to be returning after a highly successful tour in the UK


John and Nicole's performances (pictured above) are packed with vitality, humour and excitement, as they breathe new life into some of the great songs of the Australian, English and Celtic traditions and carry the tradition forward with original songs and tunes. Driving guitar and Irish flute support their enthralling vocals. Their trademark dazzling harmonies and their impassioned presentation are leavened with humour and great tales from their travels. Cloudstreet makes their audience feel that they are the privileged viewers of something very special.

Rebecca Wright (pictured above) will perform with Cloudstreet as well as presenting some of her own superbly crafted songs. Freshly revealing, bright and beautiful... Rebecca’s songs will stir your heart. Her deftly exquisite arrangements of voice and acoustic guitar, and graceful, grounded performances captivate her audiences and weave connections among people.

More news of this nearer the time. If you would like to attend the concert send us an email: fes.riad@gmail.com

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Saturday, May 24, 2008

Concert tonight in Fes!



The concert by renowned Australian singer songwriter, Bernard Carney is at 9 pm... he will perform two 45 minute sets with a break for mint tea between them.

Details here: Carney Concert.

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Friday, May 23, 2008

Arab science journalists conference to be held in Fez



The First Arab Conference for Science Journalists will be held in Fez, Morocco on October 25. Journalists interested in submitting paper abstracts to be considered for use in the conference should do so by June 15.

The conference is aimed at enhancing the skills of Arab journalists in covering science issues and providing them with an opportunity to network and exchange experiences with their peers from around the world.

Five Arab journalists will also receive the 2008 Arab Science Journalism Award during the event.

For registration, visit www.astf.net/sro/sro5. For more information, contact sro@astf.net. Abstracts should be sent to elawadi.sro@astf.net.

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News Flash - French Moroccan tourists killed in accident


Correction to our earlier story. The tourists killed in the bus accident which claimed 7 lives was in Morocco. The tourists were Moroccans from France who were on their way home. Thirty two people on the bus, 7 dead and 7 badly injured. Among the dead it is understood that only two were women. There is no more details at this time.


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Moroccan News & Fez Medina Gossip #3505



It has been quite a week in the Medina of Fes. Concerts, strikes, odd weather and loads of tourists. Cafe Clock had only just recovered from being involved in a treasure hunt when Sunday rolled around and the Tic Toc crowd were treated to some accapella jazz. Treasure hunt? - yes, bizarre as it sounds, you read it right. Teams of people were scouring the Medina looking for clues.

Clue hunting in the Clock

A group of young Moroccans lads told The View from Fez that the most exciting thing that happened during the week was the news of a new service that will allow mobile phone users to watch TV.


SNRT ( National Company of Radio and TV Broadcasting) on Wednesday launched a , a new mobile TV service that allows mobile phone users to watch five Moroccan TV channels Al Oula, 2M, Arryadia, Arrabiâ and Assadissa. Sadly Fez phone junkies will have to hold their excitement for a while because we understand that the service is only available in Rabat and Casablanca but eight other cities will be covered by the end of 2008.

Morocco is the second country in the Arab world and in Africa to launch this service after the United Arab Emirates and South Africa respectively. Speaking at the launch of the new service, Minister of Communication, Khalid Naciri, deemed it “a new step” in the path of multidimensional modernization, and a "stunning model" of Morocco’s ability to be among the forerunners in this field.

"The Medina is closed" -due to a strike.

The general strike on Wednesday went ahead without any problems. A few decades ago that would not have been the case and civil unrest would have taken place. As Dar Al Hayat reported - "general strikes in Morocco are no longer a cause for concern as they resemble any other exercise of constitutional rights without triggering uncontrollable chaos."

Strikers in Rabat

In Fez the Medina was closed down to the point where getting bread was near impossible. However people took it all in their stride and the day sailed by without incident.

Faces in the Medina - Sara May.


In her own words...

My name is Sara-May.
'Second Sight' can be traced back in my family to the seventeenth century.I trained in the development of my Mediumship for six years in a spiritual church in England.Taking clairvoyant services for over twenty years, giving lectures in selected 'new age' subjects (my formal training is in English and Drama) and thus expaning my knowledge and skills in areas which have been a source of fascination to me, personally, all my life. By profession I am an actress, working almost exclusively in television and my husband is a Doctor of geology.After we got married, he stopped travelling the world, digging things up and I stopped travelling around filming on location, and we started working together. In England we ran a business where we sold rare crystals and minerals,esoteric and new age selected goods and I did 'sittings' (Ten years ago I worked every week for two years at the Spiritual Association of Great Britain S.A.G.B. in Belgrave Square in London).Ths expanded into a second business, this time a bookshop, so that we could allocate more space to grimmoires and magic related stock.With added staff, and an escallation in business, we found we were working seven days a week - plus all the paperwork that this entailed. So, we sold up and moved to Fes in 2005, with the intention of living a more leisurely life, in between visits to England to work on our respective professions. But, now to the 'sittings'.I use a combination of three different Tarot decks, one for the 'actual', one for 'outcomes' and one for the emotions and atmosphere 'psychology' of the situations shown. I devine what is around the sitter, where these situations come from and ultimately where they will arrive.The idea is to bring a greater clarity. to see how things really are, so that decisions and pathways forwards may be made with greater understanding of the outcomes. Prices are negotiable, depending on time and content and ability to pay. Email adam.200.200@hotmail.com

Concert in a private riad


Bernard and Eleanor in Fez


Bernard and his wife Eleanor have been relaxing in Fez, taking in the sights and preparing for his concert at Riad Zany.

Saturday's concert is at Riad Zany at 9.pm. Some seats still available. Everyone welcome but please book! - riad.fes@gmail.com


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Monday, May 19, 2008

Concert in Fez - A reminder.


A quick reminder that the Australian singer songwriter Bernard Carney is performing at Riad Zany on Saturday night at 9pm. He has just completed a tour in Europe and is looking forward to performing in Fes. There are still some seats available, so please email us if you would like to attend.

email: fes.riad@gmail.com

For those who do not know how to find the riad, a guide will meet people at Cinema Amal, R'Cif, at 8.45 pm. Entry is by donation (minimum 50 dirhams).

Full details of our concerts here: Concert Programme

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Saturday, May 17, 2008

TITUS BURCKHARDT AND MOROCCO – A LOVE STORY


A report on the lecture given in London by Dr Jean-Louis Michon for The Temenos Academy. By our "Up North Correspondent" Aurora Borealis

There’s an irresistible attraction around anything with the word Fez in it if you happen to live in zipped up Anglo lands, where talking to someone you don’t know in a checkout queue is seen as a massive invasion of privacy. So it was that I found myself at the Art Workers Guild in Bloomsbury (where else?) listening to Dr Michon – an 84 year old Frenchman talking about a deceased Swiss German who shared his interest in all things Islamic; and especially in the city of Fez.


Jean-Louis and Titus Burkhardt were friends and colleagues for many years. They both had extremely well educated intellectual credentials, they both found their spiritual niche in Islam and they were both Sufi initiates.

They both loved Fez with an enduring passion. So much so that in1972 Titus Burckhardt and Jean-Louis Michon were invited by UNESCO, on behalf of the Moroccan government, to participate in a study and evaluation of the problems around the preservation of cultural heritage.
After several years of work dedicated to the rehabilitation of the city’s fabric, a Master Plan for the Urban Planning of Fez was completed in 1978. The plan was largely inspired by Titus Burckhardt’s spirit and enthusiasm and was conceived to kick start a national and international campaign
to safeguard and restore our fabulous city, founded in the 8th century by Moulay Idriss.

Thirty years on from the Burckhardt plan, Fez is celebrating 1,200 years of its existence and the energetic, loving rehab that he initiated surpasses all expectations – but one can’t help wondering what Burkhardt would make of the boutique riads. After listening to Michon talking about his friend, I think they would both have preferred the resources to go into mosques, medrassas and comfort zones for artisans and craftspeople.

So did we gain insight into the life of Titus Burckhardt from his friend? Maybe a little. We were told about his early travels in Morocco. How he yearned to find a spiritual master who would open his heart and mind to deep contemplative experience, how he married a woman who dedicated her life to his work, how he did eventually find his sheikh –in Fez. But I was left feeling there is a lot more to learn about this fascinating individual who seems to me to be a precursor –someone well ahead of his time. The Temenos Academy has a remit to sustain the ‘Perennial Wisdom’ and has The Prince of Wales as its Patron. It has been going for many years. Let’s hope it continues.

Books by Titus Burckhardt
Fez, City of Islam
Siena, City of the Virgin
Sacred Art in East and West
Mystical Astrology According to Ibn Arabi,
Traditional Science and Sacre
d Art


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Thursday, May 15, 2008

Fes Festival of World Sacred Music




Here is the full programme for the upcoming Fez Festival.

The 14th Fes Festival of World Sacred Music
6 to 15 June 2008

Provisional Programme

Friday 6 June Opening Night

Bab Makina 20:30 (A seats €55; B seats €37)

Jessye Norman (USA), with the Regional Lyric Orchestra Avignon Provence (France). Conducting: Rachael Worby (USA)

Saturday 7 June

Batha Museum 16:30 (all seats €14)

Ghada Shbéïr (Lebanon) Songs of the Eastern Christian Churches

Bab Makina 20:30 (A seats €55; B seats €28)

Night of Sacred African American and Sufi Songs Night

Spirituals/Hymns/Qawwali/Gospel

Faiz Ali Faiz and his Ensemble (Pakistan) and Bernice Johnson Reagon and the Sacred Sound Ensemble (USA)

Sunday 8 June

Batha Museum 16:30 (all seats €14)

Mari Boine (Norway) Sacred Songs of Scandinavian Far North

Bab Makina 20:30 (A seats: €46; B seats €28)

Al Kindi ensemble with Sheikh Hamza Shakour, the Munshid of the Great Umayyad Mosque of Damascus and the Byzantin Tropos Choir of Athens - Dir. JJ Weiss (Syria/Greece)

Stabat Mater Dolorosa - Christian and Muslim Homage to Mary

Monday 9 June

Batha Museum 16:30 (all seats €9)

Huong Thanh (Vietnam) Traditional and sacred songs

Bab Makina 20:30 (A seats €46; B seats €28)

Belen Maya Company (Spain) Flamenco dance and song

Tuesday 10 June

Batha Museum 16:30 (all seats €9)

Tartit Women's Ensemble (Mali) Folk and sacred songs of the Tuareg

Bab Makina 20:30 (A seats €46; B seats €28)

Panti Pusaka Budaya Ensemble Sacred Traditional Dance of Bali / Indonesia

Wednesday 11 June

Batha Museum 16:30 (all seats €9)

Ysaÿe Quartet (France) The Seven Last Words of Christ (J. Haydn) Text: Michel Serres – Narrator: Michael Lonsdale

Bab Makina 20:30 (A seats €28 ; B seats €14 )

Fadhel Jaziri (Tunisia) Hadhra: The Spiritual Message of Tunisia

Thursday 12 June

Batha Museum 16:30 (all seats €9)

The Roza Enflorese (Belgium) Sephardic sacred and traditional songs

Bab Makina 20:30 (A seats €28; B seats €14)

Abdelwahab Doukali (Morocco) with Rachid Regragui's Oriental Orchestra Spiritual Dialogue between Souls

Friday 13 June

Batha Museum 16:30 (all seats €9)

Cantus Colln (Germany) Around JS Bach/Spiritual Paths (Buxtehude - J. Rosenmüller - JS Bach) Director: Konrad Junghanel

Bab Makina 20:30 (A seats €55; B seats €37)

Majda El Roumi (Lebanon) Call for Peace from the Star of Peace

Saturday 14 June

Batha Museum 16:30 (all seats €14)

Madhup Mudghal (India) Bakhti devotional songs

Bab Makina 20:30 (A seats €46; B seats €28)

Ismael Lô (Senegal) with the Brotherhood Hamadcha of Fez (Morocco) From Dakar to Fez: from heart to soul

Sunday 15 June

Bab Makina 20:30 (A seats €55 ; B seats €28 )

Mohamed Abdou (Saudi Arabia) with Abderahim Mountassir's Orchestra

Pass for all concerts: €260 (includes A seats at Bab Makina)

Pass for concerts and Fez Encounters: €310

Pass for Fez Encounters only: €50 (or €10 per session)


ADDITIONAL EVENTS

FREE CONCERTS:

Saturday 7 June:

18:30 at Bab Boujloud: Haja Hamdaoudia
20:00 at Ait Skato: 1st part: Shakba; 2nd part: Said Mosker
23:00 at Dar Tazi: Hamadcha Sufi Brotherhood (Fez)

Sunday 8 June:

18:30 at Bab Boujloud: Said Mosker
20:00 at Ait Skato: 1st part: Hel Lemkane; 2nd part: Haja Hamdaoudia
23:00 at Dar Tazi: Qawwali with Faiz Ali Faiz (Pakistan)

Monday 9 June:

18:30 at Bab Boujloud: Fes City Clan
20:00 at Ait Skato: Tagada
23:00 at Dar Tazi: Tijania Sufi Brotherhood (Laayoune)

Tuesday 10 June:

18:30 at Bab Boujloud: Tagada
20:00 at Ait Skato: Dar Dmana
23:00 at Dar Tazi: Harraqïa Sufi Brotherhood (Taza)

Wednesday 11 June:

18:30 at Bab Boujloud: Dar Dmana
20:00 at Ait Skato: Saida Charaf
23:00 at Dar Tazi: Tartit Women's Ensemble

Thursday 12 June:

18:30 at Bab Boujloud: Hadhra (Tunisia) directed by Fadhel Jaziri
20:00 at Ain Skato: Fes City Clan
23:00 at Dar Tazi: Darkaouiya Sufi Brotherhood (Laarache)

Friday 13 June:

18:30 at Bab Boujloud: Fnaïre
20:00 at Ait Skato: 1st part: Hamid el Mardi; 2nd part: Daoudia
23:00 at Dar Tazi: Sidi Bel Abass Sufi Brotherhood (Marrakech)

Saturday 14 June:

18:30 at Bab Boujloud: Nass El Ghiwane
20:00 at Ait Skato: 1st part: Fnaïre; 2nd part: Hoba Hoba Spirit

23:00 at Dar Tazi: Aïssawa Sufi Brotherhood (Fez)

Sunday 15 June:

18:30 at Bab Boujloud: Hoba Hoba Spirit
20:00 at Ait Skato: Ismael Lô (Senegal) with the Hamadcha Sufi Brotherhood (Fez)

EXHIBITIONS AND SCREENINGS:

Dar Tazi: Photography: Reza 'Fire Dance'

Place Sofia: Photography: Christian Schuytiser 'Earthen Mosques of Mali'

Batha Museum: Photography: Abbas 'Abraham Children'

Jnan Palace: 18:00 Monday 9 June Documentary film by Abraham Segal 'Politics and God'

Palais Jamaï Hotel: 18:00 on Thursday 12 June: Talk by Michael Barry on the Image of Averroès in Medieval and Renaissance Art

FES ENCOUNTERS COLLOQUIUM

9:00 to 12:30 at the Batha Museum

Saturday 7 June: Representation of the Sacred

Sunday 8 June: Music and the Sacred

Monday 9 June: The Sacred, Custom and Law

Tuesday 10 June: The Sacred and the Unconscious

Wednesday 11 June: Transmission and the Sacred

FRINGE EVENTS AT THE FRENCH INSTITUTE'S DAR BATHA AT 22:00

Monday 9 June: Atfal Dar Damana : children's dance and song

Tuesday 10 June: Shahinaz: Jewish, Christian and Islamic music of the Mediterranean

Wednesday 11 June: Assawyat: women of the Aïssawa Sufi Brotherhood

Thursday 12 June: Hamadcha Sufi Brotherhood, explained by Frédéric Calmès


WALKING TOURS

Palaces and Homes (Friday and Sunday)

Starts at 10:00 at Dar Tazi and covers Dar Tazi, Ba Mohamed, Ecole Mokri and Palais Mokri (finishes at Palais Mokri)

Circuit of Knowledge (Saturday and Sunday)

Starts at 10:00 on Saturday and 16:00 on Sunday

Starts at the Attarine Medersa and covers the Bouanania and Moulay Driss (finishes at Moulay Driss Highschool)

CHILDREN'S EVENTS at 14:30 to 18:00 Monday to Saturday

CLICK HERE FOR TICKET COLLECTION SERVICE



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Monday, May 12, 2008

The best little restaurant in Fes - update


Thami's restaurant has been closed for the last week and at first it caused concern amongst his regular patrons who worried that he might have closed. Thankfully that was not the case and now Thami (pictured above) has reopened with brand new décor - all fresh and bright. The food? The food is as good as ever.

For a few years Thami's was a well kept secret among the Moroccans and expat locals. Slowly the word got out and he is now listed in the guide books. However, it still takes some skill to find his tiny kitchen and the three small tables.

Tourists visiting Fez are usually guided to "palace" restaurants where the menu is Moroccan salads, chicken or lamb tagine with couscous followed by fruit and mint tea. For the average visitor, street food is something they approach with undue caution. But we are here to tell you the street food is great.

So where do you go if you want to watch the crowds and enjoy a simple, delicious meal at very reasonable prices and no fuss? The answer is Thami's Restaurant.

At this point we should mention that in the context of Thami, the word "restaurant" should be taken to mean a simple table set on a street corner. In fact, the owner and chef, Thami, started off a few years ago with a single table and four chairs. The following year he expanded to six chairs with two tables covered with a single tablecloth and now he has managed to take over another small area of footpath and has a second table with two chairs - such is capitalism.

On our latest visit we noticed that Thami has two new round tables - now all he needs is extra chairs! At the first sign of an approaching tourist, Thami weaves his way through the crowds on the street and presents them with the card. This is hard work, as his strike rate is often as low as one in fifty. Yet when the restaurant is busy, people in the know, find themselves having to nip around to the Batha Hotel to assuage their thirst while waiting for a seat. Once you get a seat you could well find yourself chatting with some of the Medina's most colourful identities - poets, renovators, English teachers and photographers.

Thami is up against stiff competition. To one side of his small hole-in-the-wall kitchen are a row of smart cafes and several terrace restaurants with ambiance much more appealing than a simple table on a busy corner near the Baboujeloud. So why do so many of the expats and Moroccan's regularly visit Thami? The answer is simple. The food is simple, cheap and fresh - and in five years of eating there - nobody has had any need to rush for the immodium! The second reason is Thami himself. He is a really nice person who looks after his regular customers as if they were members of his family.

The one drawback to Thami's is the fact that being located in such a great spot for watching the passing throng some of the locals have taken up almost permanent residence on some of his chairs and often need prying away from them with a crowbar.

We suggest you try the tagine of kefta with egg, the melange and his fish.

Thami's Restaurant is at the very top of the Tala'a Sghira on the corner that turns right to the Baboujeloud and the Tala'a Kbira. He is open for lunch and in the evenings from about 7 onwards. The restaurant is the best kept secret in Fez, so don't tell anyone else, okay?



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Travel Writing about Morocco #19


Continuing our series on travel writing about Morocco, we turn our attention to the Guardian website where Doug McKinlay limps along with a piece about Moulay Idriss (pictured above and below).

Unfortunately along with interviewing the mayor he takes a quite swipe at writers of travel guides. His lack of collegial appreciation of his fellow scribes is only surpassed by his rather lazy and inaccurate shot at Lonely Planet...

Publishers and websites are only now waking up to Moulay Idriss's open-door policy. The latest edition of Lonely Planet's Morocco states: 'The embargo on non-Muslims staying overnight has only recently been lifted.' But it goes on to recommend two restaurants that are now closed and gives no advice on accommodation. From a strictly selfish perspective, I'm happy the guidebook writers have it wrong.

Well, Dougie boy, actually no. He should have kept reading his Lonely Planet because the accommodation is listed. He should also appreciate that there is a lead time in book publishing that daily hacks don't have to contend with. Between research and publication can be months and in that time restaurants open and close. It is a fact of life.



Anyway - if you would like to read the piece, you will find the full text here: Doug Explores Morocco

Photo credits: Sandy McCutcheon

Check out our earlier travel writing stories:

Travel Writing Eighteen
Travel Writing Seventeen
Travel writing Sixteen.
Travel Writing Fifteen.
Travel Writing Fourteen.
Travel Writing Thirteen.
Travel Writing Twelve.
Travel Writing Eleven.
Travel Writing Ten.
Travel Writing Nine
Travel writing eight
Travel writing Seven
Travel Writing Six
Travel Writing Five
Travel Writing Four
Travel Writing Three
Travel Writing Two
Travel Writing One


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Reminder: upcoming concerts in Fez.



Just a reminder. If you would like to enjoy one or both of the next two concerts at Riad Zany, then you need to send us a quick email - fes.riad@gmail.com and put "concert booking" in the subject line.

Please note all concerts start at 9pm and there is a 50 dirham donation at the door which is strictly for the musicians and expenses.

We can only accommodate 70 people and so first in...

Concert One. Bernard Carney

On the weekend of May 24/25 Bernard Carney will perform at Riad Zany on the Saturday (24th) and will follow up with a smaller event at Cafe Clock on the Sunday (25th).

"Bernard Carney is a great all-round musician in the tradition of the folk troubadour. He has a unique talent as songwriter, guitarist and singer all peppered with passion and humour."
Port Fairy Festival Director Jamie McKew when presenting Bernard with the prestigious Artist of the Year award at Port Fairy Festival.

Songs of love and memory are bitter-sweet explorations of human emotion sung with a kind of melodic elegance that is the hall mark of a good song.” Ron Banks West Australian newspaper review.

Concert Two; Cloudstreet with Rebecca Wright.

On May 30 Cloudstreet (the renowned Australian folk duo) will perform at Riad Zany along with singer songwriter Rebecca Wright.

On the Sunday they will perform at Cafe Clock.

Cloudstreet perform hot harmonies & beautiful ballads. This will be their second trip to Fez as guests of The View from Fez. On their last trip they were impressed by the acoustic quality inside the riad and so are very happy to be returning after a highly successful tour in the UK


John and Nicole's performances (pictured above) are packed with vitality, humour and excitement, as they breathe new life into some of the great songs of the Australian, English and Celtic traditions and carry the tradition forward with original songs and tunes. Driving guitar and Irish flute support their enthralling vocals. Their trademark dazzling harmonies and their impassioned presentation are leavened with humour and great tales from their travels. Cloudstreet makes their audience feel that they are the privileged viewers of something very special.


Rebecca Wright (pictured above) will perform with Cloudstreet as well as presenting some of her own superbly crafted songs. Freshly revealing, bright and beautiful... Rebecca’s songs will stir your heart. Her deftly exquisite arrangements of voice and acoustic guitar, and graceful, grounded performances captivate her audiences and weave connections among people.

WE NEED TO BORROW A CELLO - Please email us. Free admission for lending a cello!


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Café Clock happenings


It is hard to keep up with all the events at the tic toc - but here is what Clock Culture organised for the next 10 days at Café Clock - and the new kitchen opening times.

From Tuesday May13 - Café Clock will be serving food and drinks from
9 a.m. to 10p.m., including breakfasts, delicious pastries, and a full
lunch and evening menu. Closed Mondays ( for the moment!).

TODAY – 4p.m. Poetry Reading – Sabul Assalam Centre - Ouadia El Ghazi.

Sunday 11 : 3 – 5p.m. Calligraphy @ the Clock. Open table.
( 350 dh - Discounts available)

Sunday 11 : 5:30 – 7p.m. Sunday Sunset Concert.
Jazz Blues. ( 20 dh )

NEW
Tuesday 13 : New kitchen opening schedule. 9a.m – 10.p.m

Wednesday 14 : 10 –12 Clock Language Conversation Group ; Darija.
( 50 dh Discounts available)

Thursday 15 : 10 –12 Clock Language Conversation Group : English ( basic )
( 50 dh. Discounts available)

NEW
Saturday 17 May : 10 –12 Clock Language Conversation Group : French
( 50 dh. Discounts available.)

Sunday 18 : 3 – 5 p.m Calligraphy at the Clock. Open table.
( 350 dh - Discounts available)

EXCELLENT
Sunday 18 : 5:30 – 7 Sunday Sunset Concert ( 20 dh)
Rachelle sings Jazz Blues aCapella.

Cafe Clock rocks!

For more information see www.cafeclock.com


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Saturday, May 10, 2008

Scorpion stings in Morocco


Recently we published a story on snakebites in Morocco and had several emails asking about scorpions and whether they were a problem. The answer is a big YES.

According to figures from the Moroccan Centre national antipoison et de pharmacovigilance (CAPM) (poisons and drug monitoring center) scorpion stings kill about 100 under 15s every year, in a total of some 30,000 cases of scorpion poisoning documented yearly in Morocco. There is a particular danger between July and August each year. It should also be noted that over 60 percent of stings are at night.

To stem this scourge, a nationwide campaign themed "Together Save our Children from Death from Scorpion Stings," was launched on Friday in the city of Essaouira. It is aiming at reducing the mortality rateby 30%.

Initiated by the CAPM, the campaign will be carried out under the aegis of the Health Ministry, in collaboration with the Province of Essaouira, the Mohammed VI Foundation for Research and the Protection of Argan Trees, and NGOs. Essaouira is the area that produces 4.6% of all scorpion-related incidents reported in Morocco. Scorpions claimed the lives of 528 people between 2001 and 2006.

Speaking on the occasion, king’s advisor and chairman of the Foundation, André Azoulay, stressed the need to fight scorpion stings in the city.

According to figures of the CAPM, 91 people died in 2006 of scorpion stings, compared to 98 in 2005 and 93 in 2004. Scorpion stings are the primary cause of 50 to 60 % of documented poisoning cases in Morocco.

Morocco has more than 30 kinds of yellow and black scorpions. The latter remain the most dangerous, according to CAPM. There is an interesting abstract here: scorpions.

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