Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Music Lovers Mourn the Passing of Paco de Lucia


Back on Sunday, June 09, 2013. the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music presented a wonderful concert by Paco de Lucia. Now comes the sad news that the master of the Spanish guitar died in Mexico at the age of 66



Paco de Lucia dazzled audiences with his lightning-speed flamenco rhythms and finger work. Born Dec. 21, 1947, de Lucia — whose real name was Francisco Sanchez Gomez — was best-known for flamenco but also experimented with other genres of music. One of his most famous recordings was Friday Night in San Francisco, recorded with fellow guitarists John McLaughlin and Al Di Meola in 1981.

During the 1960s and 1970s, he formed an extremely popular duo with late flamenco singer legend Camaron de la Isla.

His 1973 rumba Entre Dos Aguas (Between Two Waters) became one of the most popular recordings in Spain.

De Lucia was awarded the Culture Ministry's Fine Arts Gold Medal in 1992 and the prestigious Prince of Asturias prize for the Arts in 2004.

A spokeswoman for the town hall of de Lucia's native Spanish town of Algeciras said de Lucia family members had told them the artist died of a heart attack. She said he began to feel unwell while on a beach in Cancun with his child and died while being taken to a local hospital.



The official spoke on condition of anonymity as town hall regulations do not allow her to be identified publicly

Describing the death as unexpected and premature, Spanish Education and Culture Minister Jose Ignacio Wert said he was "a unique and unrepeatable figure."

Paco de Lucia was an inspiration to many Moroccan musicians including Fez oud and guitar player and coordinator of the ALC-ALIF Music Club, Hamza El Fasiki. who learned his guitar technique by watching video clips of of Paco's playing.

"His guitar has been silenced - he was my teacher, companion in music, a creative inspiration and motivation ... I feel sad" ~ Hamza El Fasiki.

Paco de Lucia signing Hamza's guitar in 2013

Hamza was saddened by Paco's early death. "I followed everything about the way he played - his philosophy, the way sat, His finger action, even the way he cut his nails. He will be sadly missed."

Paco's signature on Hamza's guitar


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Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Volunteering in Morocco Gains in Popularity


Participating in an international short term volunteer project ( so called Workcamp ) can be an exciting prospect. It is an interesting and meaningful way to travel with purpose and spend 2-3 weeks in a foreign environment. Working and living together with other volunteers from around the world provides an excellent opportunity to make many new friends, learn about unknown places and culture, gain new skills and experience. Your time, energy, and enthusiasm can make a difference in areas where help is really needed


One of the main volunteer organisations that has a good track record in Morocco is the Canadian Alliance for Development Initiatives and Projects (CADIP).

CADIP is a non-profit Canadian organization. It has no religious or political affiliation. Through various charity, volunteer and youth initiatives, Cadip promotes peace, cooperation, tolerance and understanding in multi-cultural, multi-ethnic and international surroundings. The organization also promotes patterns and examples of civil activities focused on serving others, on building social ties and strengthening communities, on supporting civil society development.

Aims and general objectives

• To promote volunteering as an expression of civic contribution
• To support the community initiatives and assist in community development
• To strengthen the international contacts among volunteers
• To build tolerance and understanding in multicultural and multi-ethnic surroundings
• To promote multiunderstanding among volunteers all over the world
• To facilitate the individual growth of the volunteers through the acquisition of work, life and learning skills
• To work for the recognition and promotion of non-formal learning

A good example of their work is the project to aid  the restoration of the historic heritage of Safi .


Safi is one of the oldest cities in Morocco. During the 15th century, Safi was an important trading port. The city was under Portuguese rule from 1488 to 1541. Amongst the Portuguese constructions from the Manueline period which still remain and stand out are the Cathedral of Safi, the Castle of the Sea and the Fortress of Safi.
This project is an opportunity for international volunteers to discover and contribute to the restoration of the historic heritage of Safi. The volunteers will take part in the renovation and restoration of historic sites and monuments in the city in order to preserve all its splendor and beauty. The volunteers' work will include cleaning and restoring historical remains. The volunteers will have meetings with local people who will share stories about the monuments revealing interesting facts about Morocco's history.

Location: Safi, situated directly by the Atlantic Ocean, is one of the most important harbors of the country. The oldest Mosque in Morocco, the national ceramic museum and the ancient medina are all worth a visit. Steep coasts and beaches near the city form a beautiful landscape. Volunteers can visit some nice towns nearby: El Jadida, Essaouira, Agadir.

Here is a list of other projects for 2014



LEISURE PROGRAM FOR LESS PRIVILEGED CHILDREN IN KENITRA
Kenitra April 11 - April 21, 2014
Kenitra July 16 - July 30, 2014
Kenitra August 1 - August 15, 2014

RENOVATION AND PAINTING A MURAL IN A SOCIAL HOME FOR GIRLS
Oued Zem April 11 - April 21, 2014

IMPROVING A CHILDREN'S CENTER AND ORGANISING ACTIVITIES FOR THE KIDS
Bouznika April 11 - April 21, 2014

RENOVATING AND ARRANGING A FLOWER GARDEN IN CASABLANCA
Casablanca April 11 - April 21, 2014

YOUTH HOUSE RENOVATION AND WORK WITH CHILDREN IN SALE
Sale April 11 - April 21, 2014

MUSIC AND ART FESTIVAL IN RABAT
Rabat May 23 - May 31, 2014
Rabat October 18 - October 26, 2014

PAINTING AND CREATING MURALS IN A YOUTH CENTER IN CASABLANCA
Casablanca July 1 - July 15, 2014
Casablanca July 16 - July 30, 2014
Casablanca August 1 - August 15, 2014
Casablanca August 16 - August 30, 2014

IMPROVING PUBLIC SPACES IN SALE
Sale July 1 - July 15, 2014
Sale July 16 - July 30, 2014
Sale August 1 - August 15, 2014
Sale August 16 - August 30, 2014

CREATING A BRIGHTER LIVING ENVIRONMENT FOR DISADVANTAGED CHILDREN IN BENSLIMANE
Benslimane July 1 - July 15, 2014
Benslimane July 16 - July 30, 2014

RENOVATING AND DECORATING COMMUNITY FACILITIES IN RABAT
Rabat July 16 - July 30, 2014

HELP CREATE A BETTER ENVIRONMENT FOR UNDERPRIVILEGED STUDENTS IN MARRAKECH
Marrakech July 16 - July 30, 2014
Marrakech August 1 - August 15, 2014
Marrakech August 16 - August 30, 2014

IMPROVING A CHILDREN'S CENTER AND ORGANISING ACTIVITIES FOR THE KIDS
Bouznika August 1 - August 15, 2014
Bouznika August 16 - August 30, 2014

PRESERVING THE COASTAL ENVIRONMENT AND INCREASING PUBLIC AWARENESS IN BOUKNADEL
Bouknadel August 1 - August 15, 2014
Bouknadel August 16 - August 30, 2014

RENOVATION AND UPKEEP OF THE CHILDREN'S CENTER IN AHFIR
Ahfir August 1 - August 15, 2014

RESTORATION AND PRESERVATION OF THE ANCIENT MEDINA OF FES
Fes August 1 - August 15, 2014
Fes August 16 - August 30, 2014

PAINTING A CENTER FOR POOR CHILDREN AND PROTECTING THE ENVIRONMENT IN ESSAOUIRA
Essaouira August 1 - August 15, 2014
Essaouira August 16 - August 30, 2014

MAINTENANCE OF SCHOOL RECREATION AREAS IN MOHAMMADIA
Mohammadia August 1 - August 15, 2014
Mohammadia August 16 - August 30, 2014

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AND AWARENESS CAMPAIGN IN TIZNIT
Tiznit August 1 - August 15, 2014
Tiznit August 16 - August 30, 2014

HELP IMPROVE THE QUALITY OF LIFE FOR CHILDREN IN MIRLEFT
Mirleft August 1 - August 15, 2014
Mirleft August 16 - August 30, 2014

RESTORATION OF THE HISTORIC HERITAGE OF SAFI
Safi August 1 - August 15, 2014
Safi August 16 - August 30, 2014

CREATING BETTER SPORTS FACILITIES FOR CHILDREN IN AL HOUCEIMA
Al Houceima August 1 - August 15, 2014

RESTORATION AND PRESERVATION OF THE WORLD HERITAGE SITE OF EL JADIDA
El Jadida August 1 - August 15, 2014
El Jadida August 16 - August 30, 2014

YOUTH CENTER RENOVATION AND ORGANISING WORKSHOPS FOR CHILDREN
Temara August 1 - August 15, 2014
Temara August 16 - August 30, 2014

SCHOOL RENOVATION PROJECT IN MEKNES
Meknes August 1 - August 15, 2014
Meknes August 16 - August 30, 2014

PRESERVING THE ENVIRONMENT AND RAISING PUBLIC AWARENESS IN TIFLET
Tiflet August 1 - August 15, 2014
Tiflet August 16 - August 30, 2014

AWARENESS WORK AND BEACH CLEANUP IN THE BAY OF TANGIER
Tangier August 1 - August 15, 2014
Tangier August 16 - August 30, 2014

IMPROVING THE STUDY ENVIRONMENT AND LIVING CONDITIONS FOR ORPHANS IN NORTHERN MOROCCO
Larache August 1 - August 15, 2014
Larache August 16 - August 30, 2014

NEW YEAR IN THE DESERT
Zagora December 26, 2014 - January 2, 2015

To find out more about this and other volunteer opportunities in Morocco click here

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Monday, February 24, 2014

Japanese Tourists Respond to Documentary On Morocco


A documentary film featuring Morocco, shot in December has been shown on Tokyo TV and BS Japan - and now a second one is being filmed. The huge audience and exposure which will certainly impact on the number of Japanese tourists visiting the kingdom.

The response was so great to the first documentary that a second round of filming has now taken place again with the assistance of Production Coordinator, Momoko Nishiyama. This time the focus will be on women in Morocco. It will be part of a full three hour Moroccan feature.

One of the things of greatest interest to viewers of the first film was the sequence shot at Riad Rcif in Fez of a traditional hammam and massage. So a new film crew this week enlisted two Moroccan women to take part. Rachida and Salma spent a long and demanding afternoon squeezed into the hammam and massage room along with the entire film crew and equipment.

Production Coordinator, Momoko Nishiyama
Rachida and Salma
The film crew setting up in the hammam
Salma awaiting the moment to begin the massage
The filming of an argan oil massage

The biggest problem experienced during the five hour shoot was the cold. The heating of the hammam would have caused problems for the cameras and so it was decided to go ahead without the usual warmth. The cold marble and tiles caused some problems especially for Rachida who needed breaks with hot towels to stop shivering.

See our report on the first film shoot here.

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Sunday, February 23, 2014

New Book Club in Fez Explores Andalusian Heritage


Andalusian Links book club is starting for those interested in exploring the historical and cultural links between Morocco and Spain - evidenced by the Andalusian heritage shared on both sides of the Mediterranean

Amin Maalouf, whose work will be covered by the new Andalusian Links book club

Founders of the new book club, Zainab Cheema and Cristina Soto Bechet, invite you to come along and discover the fascinating legacy of Andalusian culture and how "Spain of the three religions"produced an intellectual, cultural and artistic flowering that is still admired today.

Andalusian Links book club members will select one book to read for each monthly meeting, which will serve as the basis for discussion.

Cristina says, "As well as exploring this legacy, we will learn how these cross-cultural intersections are reflected in Spain and Morocco's contemporary social and political issues. We plan to invite featured speakers, musicians, and artists to present to the group from their expertise; and to supplement the readings with documentaries and other multimedia sources."

Zainab Cheema
 The first book will be French Lebanese novelist and poet Amin Maalouf's On Identity, which showcases some of the key ideas that the club will explore in the Andalusian context: how identity is shaped in the cross hairs of conflict and cultural plurality

.Zainab Cheema and Cristina Soto Bechet are both residents of Fez who are fascinated with life in the old medina. Discussions of their common interests have inspired them to delve deeper into this subject.

As a Fulbright student from the University of Texas at Austin, Zainab explores the lyrics and poetry that Andalusian exiles brought with them to the Maghreb following the Spanish Reconquista.


Cristina Soto Bechet



Cristina is a community organizer from San Diego, who has been teaching the English language in Spain and Morocco over the past 7 years. She traces her roots to a Spain deeply influenced by Arabic culture.

The meetings will be held in English, on the last Wednesday of each month, at a location yet to be decided. Participants who are willing to contribute to an engaged, intellectually stimulating dialogue are invited.

If you are interested in participating in Andalusian Links, please send an email to andalusianlinks@gmail.com for further information.


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Friday, February 21, 2014

World Champion Returns for a Boxing Workshop in Fez


Fez is fortunate to host another boxing and kickboxing workshop by former World Champion in both sports, Christophe Tendil

The workshop, to be held at Jardin des Biehn on the 29th and 30th of March, is an extraordinary opportunity. Tendil is a veteran boxer, with nine titles under his belt – three times French kickboxing champion (1992, 1993, 1994), one time European Champion (1995) and World Champion in kickboxing in 1997 and 1998. Later in his career, he moved to mainstream boxing, where he also excelled. Tendil was crowned French champion in 2002; Intercontinental champion in 2004 and 2005 and World Champion in 2007.

“I started boxing 20 years ago,” says Tendil from his home in the south of France. “At that time I absolutely needed to do a sport, as I was taking the wrong turn in life with the wrong crowd. Boxing came by chance, and thanks to this discipline I found a healthy way of life. I fought my first fight a few months after I started, and since then have had a total of 122 fights in a career spanning 17 years.”

The previous boxing workshop was a big hit!

Boxing, Tendil believes, has more uses than simply as a sport. “Many people come to seek a discipline that is not found in any other sports - taking punches requires commitment, because the penalty can be very hard.”

Not surprisingly, Tendil cites the best moment of his career as when he won the boxing title of World Champion in 2007.


Details:
Le Jardin des Biehn
13, Akbat Sbaa, Douh
30110 - FES Medina - Maroc
00212 (0)664647679



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Moroccan Photo of the Day - Master Baker in Rabat


Today's Moroccan Photograph of the Day comes from our regular contributor and man on the ground in Casablanca, John Horniblow. He travelled to Rabat to get this photograph -  the Master Baker of the Communal Oven in the Rabat Medina


The View from Fez welcomes contributions for our photo of the day series. Our contact details can be found via link at the top right of this page. See more Photos of the Day here

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Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Jazz Guitar on Saturday in Fez's Ville Nouvelle

Come and see jazz guitarist Barry Glick perform this Saturday evening at the Cafe L'empereur des Arts


Barry Glick is an accomplished and unique American jazz guitarist who has performed professionally in his own bands and as a sideman for more than 25 years; first in San Francisco then New York City for 22 years and, most recently, in Portland Oregon where he founded 2jazzguitars, one of Portland's finest jazz guitar duos. In addition to playing his chosen instrument, he is passionate about live theater and has written, recorded and directed original music for several small theater companies.

Now Barry calls Fez his home and brings his love of jazz guitar and the art of jazz to this rich musical culture. The journey continues.

When: Saturday February 22 from 6 PM
Where: Cafe L'empereur des Arts, Rue Mohammed Diouri, Ville Nouvelle, Fez. (Across the road from the ALC.)
Cost: 10 dh plus a drink

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Maroc Electrik in Fez on Friday

See the best new music talents in Morocco perform in Fez this Friday night from 7 PM. A selection of bands from all the regions, from a training program run by the 11 French institutes will be performing



Bands include Gnawa Click, Noisea, Da Legend and Sara Touiger alias Real Blood.

Gnawa Click has a variety of multicultural influences, and is part of the Moroccan underground scene. Their mix of engaging lyrics and musical fusion have seen them perform at many events and festivals.

Noisea is a young group of rap artists formed in 2008, who merge hip- hop and heavy metal. Their influences span Rap, Hip- Hop, hardcore rock and reggae and reflect a musical melting pot, with a Moroccan identity at its heart.

Mehdi EL Himani, known as Da Legend, is a Moroccan rapper of French origin who is based in Fez. He's been performing since 2008 in French and Arabic. His influences are varied, but look mainly to old school rap  and West Coast Blues.

Sara Touiger, alias Real Blood, is a rapper based in Fez. She writes texts in English. Her influences are numerous, but tend mainly towards American old school rap, West Coast Blues and pop styles.

When: Friday February 21 at 7 PM
Where: Cultural Complex Al Houria, Fez
Cost: Free
Info: CLICK HERE

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Monday, February 17, 2014

Casablanca Vying for UNESCO World Heritage Listing


The push is on for the registering of Casablanca on the UNESCO list of World Heritage cities. Any such listing is still a long way off, but if successful the city would gain a boost in tourism and economic growth

Photo Credit: Rachid Tniouni

The Ministry of Culture and Casamémoire Association recently held a joint press conference at the Casablanca Wilaya to present an outline of the registration project from Casablanca to join the World Heritage List of UNESCO.

Casablanca relies on its cultural and architectural heritage to be recognised as World Heritage by UNESCO. Morocco's economic capital is already present on the indicative list of the organisation, "a laborious process that requires a lot of energy and commitment that we expect from the Wilaya of Casablanca and the departments concerned, "said Mohammed Sajid, the Chairman Grand Casablanca.

"An original synthesis of three different cultures"

The city administration and Casamémoire association that works to protect the heritage of the city, have been setting forward the multicultural aspect of the city centre. "The urban and architectural style of the city offers a unique synthesis of three different cultures from three continents: the African culture, European culture and American culture," says the Wali, Khalid Safir. Many iconic buildings reflect the cultural mix. "center of Casablanca has built its own modernity through buildings like Al Mahkama, the Bank of Morocco which cleverly combine neo-Moorish and Neoclassical styles," adds Andaloussi Rachid, president of Casamémoire. He points out that if "Casablanca joined the club of cities classified by UNESCO, it will benefit from a massive influx of tourists and the launch of numerous projects funded by multinationals." And especially " the authorities will no longer demolish some buildings without going through an organisation affiliated to the United Nations."  Hopefully that  would ensure a better protection of Casablanca's heritage.

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Moroccan Photo of the Day


Spring in Fez and the chance to dry some of the sheep skins...



Photograph: Suzanna Clarke

The View from Fez welcomes contributions for our photo of the day series. Our contact details can be found via link at the top right of this page.

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Saturday, February 15, 2014

Moroccan News Briefs #111


Fez Court of Appeals acquits Christian convert

On Thursday the Court of Appeals in Fez acquitted Mohamed El Baladi, 31, who was sentenced on September 3rd by the Trial Court in Taounate to thirty months in prison for converting to Christianity and inducing young Muslims to convert.


“The judge has just acquitted this Moroccan who converted to Christianity,” said Mohamed Oulad Ayad, president of the regional branch of the Moroccan Association for Human Rights (AMDH) in Fez.

On August 27th, the police of Aïn Aicha, a rural town in the Taounate province, arrested Mohamed El Baladi on charges of converting to Christianity and attempting to spread the Christian faith among young people in his village of Aïn Aicha.

Since the beginning of the trial, El Baladi had always defended his right to embrace the Christian faith.

The Moroccan constitution guarantees religious freedom, but any attempt to shake the faith of Muslims by proselytising is punished according to the Moroccan Penal Code.

In accordance with Article 220 of the Moroccan Penal Code, a proselytizer may face “six months to three years prison and a fine of 100 to 500 Dirhams” for using the “means of seduction in order to convert” a Muslim “to another religion, either by exploiting his/her weakness or his/her needs, or using for these purposes education, health, asylums and orphanage institutions.”

According to AFP, Morocco’s higher council of religious scholars (CSO), the only institution entitled to issue fatwas in the kingdom, “called for the death penalty for Muslims who renounce their faith.”

After admitting their failure to spread what they call “the message of Christ” in the Kingdom, Christian missionaries have used Facebook to distribute more than 30,000 Bibles translated into “Darija,” Moroccan Arabic, in an attempt to entice Moroccans to convert to Christianity.

According to the 2012 International Religious Freedom Report of the U.S. Department of State, the predominantly Roman Catholic and Protestant Christian expat community in Morocco “consists of approximately 5,000 practicing members, although some Protestant and Catholic clergy estimate the number to be as high as 25,000”.

Story thanks to Morocco World News

French firm lights up Rabat

The French Company LEC Lyon has announced an LED lighting project in the historic city of Rabat.


LED-based lighting is increasingly finding use in UNESCO sites in part because of concerns over light pollution and the need for low-energy usage in older structures with dated infrastructure.

Lighting of the walls of Rabat was undertaken along with restructuring of the Hassan II roadway that runs alongside the old-town area of the city. The walls protect the south and west sides of the city and were built in the late twelfth century. The walls stand 8m high and the 1.5-km lit section features architectural elements that the city chose to preserve and highlight with the dual-color project.

"The walls encircle the old city of Rabat, the ones that are illuminated today are the one that are the most visible," said Fouad Bahechar, president of Electrimar. "Every 30m, the turrets project over the street. We thought that this rhythm was interesting to explore; that’s the reason why we chose to use two colors, warm white for continuity and red for relief."


German programme will restore second Moroccan synagogue

The historic Essaouira synagogue in Morocco will be refurbished in a joint project with the German Foreign Ministry. This will be the second that has been restored under the scheme.

Tuesday’s announcement came as the Moroccan ambassador in Berlin, Omar Zniber, launched an exhibit at the embassy’s cultural center of photographs of Moroccan Jews from the 1960s as well as new photos of synagogues in the country, both pre- and post-renovation.


At the time of the photos, there were still tens of thousands of Jews in Morocco. Today the population is estimated at about 2,500.

In addition, a conference on Moroccan Jewish cultural patrimony was hosted at Berlin’s Pergamon Museum this week.

A spokesperson for the German Foreign Ministry said that the restoration of the 19th century Simon Attias Synagogue in Essaouira is to be completed in 2015. It is a joint effort with the Foundation of Jewish-Moroccan Cultural Heritage.

“With this project, the Federal Foreign Office supports the preservation of Jewish heritage in Morocco, thereby helping to strengthen the national identity of the country,” he said.

The programme already completed the restoration of the 17th century Slat al Fassiyin synagogue in Fez, which had been used as a carpet factory and then a boxing ring. It was rededicated in ceremonies last year.


At that ceremony, Moroccan King Mohammed IV called for the restoration of all synagogues in the country “so that they may serve not only as places of worship, but also as forums for cultural dialogue and for the promotion of our cultural values.”

Moroccan Writers on Booker Shortlist

Two Moroccan novelists are on the short list of six finalists vying for the 2014 Booker Prize for Arab novels, organizers announced Monday in Amman.

Youssef Fadel on Booker shortlist

Tayer Azraq Nader Youhalliq Mai” (A rare blue bird flies with me) by Youssef Fadel and “Taghribat al Abdi al Machhour bi Ould al Hamriyya” by Abderrahim Habibi, are the shortlisted novelists, organizers said during a press conference in the presence of the jury chaired by Saudi critic and scholar, Saad El Bazi.

The shortlist also includes the works by Khaled Khalifa (Syria), Ahmed Saadawi and In’am Kajaji (Irak), and Ahmed Mourad (Egypt).


Valentine's Day in Morocco - the Eid I Love you!

According to Larbi Arbaoui, writing for Morocco World News, Moroccans are generally either sceptical or ignorant about Valentines Day. When The View from Fez toured Fez's Ville Nouvelle we discovered a fair amount of Valentine's advertising and so we asked shoppers what they thought it was all about. "It is like Eid," one woman told us, "It is the Eid I love you." Cute.


Larbi Arbaoui writes, St Valentine is a special day in Morocco. When you go downtown, you see hundreds of teenagers buying St Valentine gifts sold in most shopping malls in Rabat, Morocco’s capital.

Morocco’s new generation is more influenced today than its precedents by foreign cultures, traditions, and celebrations.

However, Morocco’s old generation is more reluctant to change, and preserve its own values and traditions. We can say that not a great majority of Moroccans celebrate Valentine; some do not even know about it; others neglect it or simply don't believe in it.

According to Rachid Jankari writing for Zawaya, Valentine’s Day is not an Islamic tradition. Muslims in general, including Moroccans, believe that this expression of love is an “imported” tradition, and an expression of cultural alienation vis-à-vis the Western social model.

On the economic field, however, the “rejection” or “refusal” of this Western celebration of love do not stop stores and brands from decorating their shop windows predominantly in red in honor of this holiday.

Franchises of large brands have also “relocated” the European offers dedicated to Valentine’s Day in their parent companies, to the major shopping areas of Casablanca, Rabat, and Marrakech, to name these large cities only.

Restaurants and cafés do not skimp on possible means to adapt their menus and services to the traditions of this annual emotional event.

An online travel agency was even more creative this year, as it launched a quiz in partnership with an airline operator. The proposed prize was a round-trip fare to many European capitals with free accommodation for two people, in order to celebrate this unbreakable love tie.


Morocco's changing attitudes towards unmarried couples

Due to the internet, television and Facebook, a change is taking place among young Moroccans. As a society, Morocco is the 4th highest user of social media in Africa and the effect of open communication is affecting every facet of their lives from fashion and diet to sex am=nd marriage. An interesting article appeared recently in the Malaysian Chronicle which took a look at the way a younger generation is breaking from ways of the past when it comes to couples living together.

When Moroccan divorcee Soumaya moved in with her new French boyfriend she was hoping to forget the unhappiness of her marriage. Instead, she lost her children.

It's a crime in Muslim Morocco to live together out of wedlock, and unmarried couples not only face police harassment but also the prying eyes of disapproving neighbours.
Soumaya, a mother of two, says her jealous ex-husband ratted on her to the police when she started living with her boyfriend in Marrakech, accusing her of prostitution and finding 12 witnesses to support his story.

"I didn't want to make the same mistake twice," she said of her decision not to remarry. But the boyfriend eventually left her and she lost custody of the kids.

Cohabitation may be relatively common in Morocco's swish urban districts, but conservative religious attitudes can be stifling, especially for young couples living in downscale, traditional neighbourhoods


Ibtissam Lachgar, an activist and co-founder of a campaign group to promote individual liberties, says she lives happily with her boyfriend in her apartment in the centre of the capital, Rabat. "I don't feel my sexual freedom is restricted, even though we're not married. The neighbours don't bother me, probably because I own my apartment," she says. The problem begins, she says, when they travel to the country's hinterland and try to stay in a hotel. "It's impossible; the law forbids it. They ask to see a marriage certificate. So we're forced to seek alternative arrangements, like staying with friends."

Lachgar's boyfriend Soufiane Fares, who studies law in Rabat's twin city of Sale, said "consensual sex between adults is a personal decision which others have no right to interfere with. "But living together outside of marriage is very difficult in a conservative society."

Ghassan Hakam, in his 30s, has his own experience of this, living in Casablanca with his French girlfriend for three years. Originally from Fez, the theatre director says that even in Morocco's largest city, they are constantly aware of their neighbours' displeasure. "I try to be discreet, avoiding kissing or touching my girlfriend in the area where we live. But I feel we are being watched, even if they don't say anything," he notes.

His girlfriend Fanny is sure that her life would be a lot more difficult if she were Moroccan.
"I would definitely have suffered even more from the hostile looks and prejudices I encounter," she says.

Hakam, who lived in Paris for six years, doesn't believe he needs to get married to prove his love, and questions the reason for criminalising cohabitation.

"Are two people who love each other harming society or committing a crime by living together under one roof," he asks.

Article 490 of Morocco's penal code states that sex outside marriage is punishable by up to one year in jail. In December 2012, 22 feminist organisations called for it to be repealed. Justice Minister Mustafa Ramid, who belongs to Morocco's ruling Islamist party, declared his opposition to that. "These sexual relationships undermine the foundations of our society," he insisted.

Karim, a young entrepreneur who recently moved into a crowded neighbourhood of Rabat, no longer lives with his girlfriend. "She used to come round to my house, but she couldn't stand the looks of the neighbours, especially the men sitting in the cafe opposite. Sometimes we were forced to return late at night to avoid the intrusive looks, which made us feel we'd committed a crime."

A study conducted by the health ministry in 2007 indicated that 36 percent of young Moroccan men had had sex outside marriage, while the proportion of unmarried young women who had lost their virginity was much lower, at 15%.

Full article 

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Friday, February 14, 2014

The Season of Women in White ~ Reflections on Mourning in Fez



It is the season of the women in white and the mat man is dead. Up on the roof a man is calling out to Lalla Malika. He has been calling for weeks, hour after hour. It is the season of the women in white. Their men are gone, taken by the cold, or heartbreak or poverty. For forty days they wear no colour, no makeup, no perfume. Their hands have no trace of henna. Their men are gone, just like the mat man. He was the last


Hidden away behind his door of rough-hewn planks the mat man dried the grasses he had harvested in summer. Patiently he wove the mats for the mosques until the Chinese stole the market, bringing in their container loads of plastic mats. The effect was toxic. The mat man fell to making placemats for tourists. He is gone. He was the last.

Up on the roof the madman still calls to Malika; the female djinn who seduces married men. There is only one thing sadder than a man possessed by a djinn and that is one abandoned by her. Malika, he calls, Malika, come now. There is no response. A rooster crows on a nearby terrace. The cats fight and overhead the falcons soar on the thermals. It is the season of the women in white.

Downward now, into the streets. In the alleyways the wafting smells of hammam smoke, hot bread from a firane, kefta cooking, tagine magic and spices, charcoal braziers and incense. Luban jawi - the black Javanese incense for the djinn who is not Malika. She, they say, not mentioning her name, she, who lives in water. She who comes at night and claims the men Malika has not caught.

Malika, come now. The call is fainter here, down on the cobbled street, darker too, here where the sun has averted its eye as if to shade the fact that Malika is not coming.

The cry of Malika fades away, replaced by the shuttle clicking of a loom behind a windowless wall. Children’s fingers hard at work. In dark spaces, gloom and cold surround the bucket maker amidst his cedar shavings and chips. And to the other side a man, face locked in a perpetual squint, embroidering sequins on a wedding dress for a woman whose destiny, like all her sisters, is to cast the garment aside and dress in white and walk the street alone.


Outside his door. The mat man no longer works here, squatting over his ancient wooden loom. He is gone, like Malika, and somewhere, walking in the alleyways amidst the noise and smoke and heady odours, is another woman dressed in white.



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Tuesday, February 11, 2014

The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music Turns Twenty!


The 20th edition of the Festival will run from 13 to 21 June 2014, with: The Conference of the Birds, "Journey of Cultures" as its theme

This is just a gentle reminder to those of of readers who are intending to visit Fez for the festival - make sure you have booked your accommodation! Several riad owners report that they are already full. The festival programme looks great and the festival should be a major success, once again.



This year sees the twentieth edition of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music. To celebrate, The View from Fez takes a look back at some of the images from previous festivals



The Festival's first Artistic Director Gerard Kurdjian with announcer Nadia Lazrak in 2009
The present Fez Festival Artistic Director, Alain Weber 



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