Wednesday, April 29, 2015

The Henna Souq in the Fez Medina - a Little Gem


The Souq El Henna (the Henna Souq) is one of the gems of the Fez Medina. Sadly, many people miss it as they travel down the main streets - it is off the Talaa Kebira and worth seeking out

To find the henna souq, walk down the Talaa Kebira and look out for the sign on your right

The little henna souq (market) is one of the medina's oldest and most picturesque squares, with two massive, gnarled plane trees in the centre and rows of spices, hennas, kohls, and aphrodisiacs for sale in the tiny stalls around the edges. The ceramic shops in the henna souq sell a wide variety of typically blue Fassi pottery.

Coming down the Talaa Kebira from Boujloud, locate the sign up on the wall and turn to the right and then immediately left through a small, dark, tunnel-like entrance.

Souq El Henna - a small space of tranquility in the Medina
Rose cream, argan oil and much more - ideal small gifts
The shop owners are friendly and knowledgeable 
Mohssin Zemmouri has good quality ceramics
More tagines than you will ever need!
Leo Africanus worked here as a young man. It's now a small kissaria (covered market)

At the square's end is a plaque dedicated to the Maristan Sidi Frej, a medical center and psychiatric and teaching hospital built by the Merenid ruler Youssef Ibn Yakoub in 1286. Used as a model for the world's first mental hospital—founded in Valencia, Spain, in 1410—the Maristan operated until 1944.


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Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Moroccan News Briefs #126


Feature: Morocco's Counterterrorism Success Story

Our feature article is an important piece written by Ahmed Charai for The National Interest. Ahmed Charai is publisher of the weekly Moroccan newspaper L'Observateur and president of MED Radio, a national broadcast network in Morocco, MEDTV network and chairman of the board of Al-Ahdath al-Maghrebiya Arabic daily newspaper. As an expert on Morocco and North Africa, he sits on the Board of Trustees of the Foreign Policy Research Institute and the Center for Strategic and International Studies in Washington. He is a member of The National Interest's Advisory Council.

It’s been a good week in the struggle against terrorism: Italy busted an ambitious plot by Islamic extremists to attack the Vatican; French police arrested a jihadist before he could attack Paris churches; and in Boston, the prosecution rested in the penalty phase of the trial of Boston Marathon bomber Dzokhar Tsarnaev. But the United States is on high alert—or should be—as ISIS sets its sights on American targets.  Meanwhile, from the mass killing of university students in Kenya to the bombing of the Spanish embassy in Libya to a rash of attacks in Egypt, reminders pour in across the Arab and Muslim world that whether you’re a functioning democracy, a military-led regime or a failing state, you are vulnerable.

Over a recent multileg trip from my home in Casablanca to Paris to Zambia, I met with actors in politics, civil society, the private sector and state government—and noticed that the April uptick in terror schemes, foiled and otherwise, has provoked a growing debate on the tools of counterterrorism. There has been a growing divide, moreover, in prescriptions for the developed democracies of Europe on the one hand and Muslims states in the developing world on the other. The former face popular pressure to ratchet up security measures and loosen the laws that restrain them. The latter, by contrast, encounter calls from friends in the West to do the opposite—press the “national security state” to relax its hold on the population, and bolster political reforms toward the rule of law and policies to alleviate poverty and marginalization.

As a participant in these conversations, I’ve found that nearly all parties were curious to know more about my own country, Morocco—which over the past ten years has proven to be one of the safest countries in the world.

With its new constitution guaranteeing a prominent and credible role of an elective government alongside the monarchy, it stands in between the variety of political structures found in countries East, West and South. As such, it bears relevance to all of the above, and merits scrutiny and an effort to extract some lessons.

In 2003, the country experienced its own “September 11”—a triple suicide bombing claiming forty-five lives; the deadliest in its history. The risk of further attacks was seen to be high: Morocco prides itself on being open to the world, and welcoming tourists from the West, migrant workers from the South and, alas, ideological overtures from the East. With its large population of poor and underprivileged citizens, prospects were great that outside jihadist elements could exploit domestic grievances and target the pro-Western establishment, local patriots and foreign visitors.

King Mohammed VI, who had recently taken the helm from his late father, vowed a three-pronged approach to fighting the scourge of political violence: On the one hand, he would beef up security measures. At the same time, he would institute systemic reforms to enhance the rule of law. Meanwhile, he committed to employing aggressive anti-poverty measures, including razing the shantytowns, fighting unemployment and the corruption that exacerbates it and upping educational opportunity. And finally, he would reform the religious establishment—by evicting jihadist preachers from the country’s mosques and investing heavily in the spiritual, Sufi strand of Islam—its traditions deeply rooted in Morocco’s history and culture.


Twelve years later, the effect can be seen at any division of the Central Bureau of Investigation (BCIJ), the country’s equivalent of the FBI, which has gone through a major overhaul over the course of the monarch’s ongoing rule. Together, its investigators—both men and women—pursue a holistic approach of probing terror groups alongside other criminal networks, such as those that traffic in drugs and people. They know intimately the symbols and rites of the different religio-political streams, both inside the country and in the broader region. They have cultivated sources, moreover, in a variety of institutions and from the big cities to the villages to the border areas. But they have been schooled to perform their sleuthing in accordance with new laws that are almost as severe on security officers as they are on the criminals they pursue. Human-rights education being an integral part of cadets’ training, today’s enforcers follow these laws not just because they have been instructed to do so, but because they believe in them.

And the population knows it: Morocco is perhaps the only country in the world in which counterterror agents interact with the population in a manner structured like the model of “community policing.” These officials know that by establishing a warm rapport with locals, trust between the BCIJ and the local population will grow and the locals may even serve informally as the BCIJ’s eyes and ears. Considerably more than in the past, these citizens feel enfranchised: They know that their needs matter to the government, and their votes select and check the people who lead it. More of them are educated. More of them are working. And fewer than ever before identify with jihadist elements in the region that would threaten the country’s security.

Moroccans feel that their country can serve the counterterrorism struggles now being waged in Western countries, the Arab world and countries south of the Sahara in two important ways: as a model and as a partner.

Though the countries of the West are wealthier and their police units more technologically advanced, they tend to lack the nuance necessary to patrol Muslim citizens with the dignity that is due them. They are still home, moreover, to underprivileged communities—the lion’s share of whom are Muslim—who badly need their living conditions to improve and to feel enfranchised in the system. And while their grievances are no excuse for terrorism, they are victims of the poisonous ideals taught to them by religious preachers that their host governments have long permitted to lead and instruct. For Europe’s police and policy planners, Moroccans can share knowledge and expertise and also become an exporter of enlightened clerics.

The same applied in the developing world. But in addition to similar security, public policy and cultural-religious needs, these countries badly need to enhance the rule of law—a necessary condition to keep the police in check and build confidence between civilians and the establishment. On this score, Western states are further along than Morocco, but do not provide a model that developing countries can readily apply. The gradual steps Morocco has taken, by contrast, show how a poor country with similar struggles has made considerable strides in a short period of time. The takeaways are more relevant—and the potential outcomes more promising.

General News and Gossip

Morocco Expecting Record Grain Harvest

Morocco expects its cereal harvest to hit a record 11 million tonnes after good rains this year, up from 6.7 million in 2014, the agriculture minister said on Monday. Agriculture accounts for more than 15 percent of the north African country's gross domestic product (GDP).

In 2013, the harvest hit 9.7 million tonnes, including 5.2 million tonnes of soft wheat.


"This campaign is exceptional on all levels," agriculture minister Aziz Akhannouch (pictured above) said at the opening of the annual agriculture fair in Meknes.

Morocco will raise the custom duty on soft wheat imports to 75 percent from 17.5 percent, from May 1 to Oct. 31, to protect the local harvest, the government announced this month.

Morocco's GDP is expected to grow by 5 percent this year, up from a previous forecast of 4.4 percent and against 2.5 percent in 2014, as the government expects farm output to expand.

Agricultural output rose by 12.5 percent in the first quarter of 2015, including growth of 8.8 percent in the cereal production, according to Morocco's Planning Agency.

World Bank Backs Morocco's Health and Energy Goals with Cash

The World Bank has approved two loans totalling US$248.95 million to support Morocco in its national health strategy and to promote clean energy and energy efficiency.

In the health sector, a US$100-million loan will finance increased access to and improved quality of public services for poor and rural populations in disadvantaged regions, the institution said in a statement.

Investment in the energy sector will support the country's ongoing efforts to reduce its dependency on imported fossil fuels.

"This project will help to strengthen primary care across nine regions to address disparities in health outcomes and upgrade management information systems and sector accountability," said Enis Baris, World Bank's health, nutrition and population practice manager for Middle East and North Africa (MENA) Region.

Morocco has achieved significant improvements in health outcomes, with reduction in child and maternal mortality rates of 64 percent and 66 percent respectively over the past 20 years.

The World Bank said inequality in access to health services coupled with limited resources allocated to the sector called for a strategy to improve the distribution and quality of health services.

The Health Sector Support Programme for Results Project is designed to underpin that strategy.

The second project -- Clean and Efficient Energy Project -- will be co-financed by a US$125-million loan from World Bank and a US$23.95-million loan from the Clean Technology Fund.

This project will support Morocco's state-owned electricity and water company to develop its first set of three mid-sized decentralised solar photovoltaic plants.

Since 2011, the World Bank's private sector arm, International Finance Corporation (IFC) has stepped up its engagement in the country and invested US$590 million to support private sector development.

Moroccan Real Estate Set to Boom

The real estate market is one of the best indicators to monitor the health of a national economy and in Morocco this sector appears to be gearing up for a season of full recovery after a crisis from which it has undeniably not recovered yet.


The weak signs registered a few months ago are growing stronger and British think tank Oxford Business Group in its report - partly published by the website La Vie éco - described the real estate market in the Kingdom as going through a positive phase for sales, especially in the so-called residential segment.

What is occurring, paradoxically, finds an explanation in the economic crisis which, as is always the case, pushes down real estate prices, leading buyers to invest in different types of real estate acquisitions. A confirmation comes from data concerning sale contracts last year, which registered a 17% increase for apartments while commercial spaces jumped 13.5%.

The sector, however, suffered from housing policies brought forward by the government, which increased social housing (with highly competitive prices compared to traditional ones), thus limiting the number of those willing to buy.

In addition, the government's fiscal policies had a positive impact in this circumstance, including partial tax cuts and lower VAT for low incomes.

Now - and this is the most positive aspect - the market appears to have stabilized, after the boom registered in 2007 (before the start of a worldwide economic crisis) and subsequent years of recession.

Thus the sector is once again enticing buyers, including foreigners who have established themselves in Morocco over the past few years and are highly courted by the market.

Another Fatal Bus Crash

According to a report carried by Maghreb Arab Presse (MAP) there has been another major road accident. This follows the fatal road accident of Tantan that claimed the lives of 34 people. aThe latest accident occurred this morning near Ouarzazate and took the lives of 14 people with 21 injured.


A passenger bus travelling between Meknes and Ouarzazate overturned in a dangerous winding road of Torjaddal area, about 45 kilometres from Ouarzazate.

Civil protection teams and local authorities were dispatched to the scene of the accident to rescue the victims.

Every year between 60,000 and 70,000 traffic accidents occur in the country, which result in the death of an average of 4000 people, the equivalent to about 11 every day. The estimated cost of these accidents to the State’s budget is 11 billion dirhams ($1,5 billion), which represents between 2 and 2%5 of the country’s GDP.

Morocco - Party Destination of the Stars

Former footballer David Beckham turns 40 on May 2 and is reportedly planning to celebrate his birthday in Marrakech, where he and wife Victoria Beckham renewed their wedding vows in 2008.

Guests are likely to include Gordon Ramsay and Tom Cruise, as well as Guy Ritchie, Liv Tyler and her boyfriend Dave Gardner, as well as Beckham's former Manchester United teammate Gary Neville.


Last weekend there was another lavish party in Marrakech. Lebanese billionaire and former prime minister Najib Mikati celebrated his son’s wedding on Saturday at the El Badi Palace.

Sources say over 1,000 people attended Malick Mikati’s wedding, including Lebanese fashion designer Elie Saab and Egyptian singer Amr Diab.

The Mikati family also hosted a brunch party at the La Mamounia luxurious hotel on Sunday.

Morocco and New Zealand Top Film Locations

The UK Guardian newspaper has ranked Morocco and New Zealand among the top 10 film destinations for international film-makers in the world.


The Guardian reports that Morocco is currently “the first choice of American film-makers seeking a safe stand-in for the Middle East – a common demand these days, with Iraq war films still in heavy demand.”

Following the likes of Body of Lies and Green Zone, Morocco’s capital Rabat was also the choice of American director Clint Eastwood to film his movie American Sniper.

Eastwood turned Rabat into “a reasonable substitute for the shrapnel-strewn streets of Fallujah,” the Guardian said.

According to the newspaper, Morocco has also successfully “masqueraded” as Somalia (Black Hawk Down), Tibet (Kundun), ancient Rome (Gladiator) and even Games of Thrones’s imaginary Westeros.

Morocco was in first place followed by New Zealand, Cape Town, Greystone Mansion, Prague, London, Monument Valley, Utah (United States), Griffith Park, Los Angeles, and Almeria, Spain

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Monday, April 27, 2015

Urban Arts Festival in Fez

The first edition of the Urban Arts Festival is organised by the French Institute in Fez and runs from Wednesday April 29 to Saturday May 2


Fez has always been a melting pot of people, cultures and a place conducive to artistic creation. From April 29 to May 2, 2015, the city will host the Urban Arts Festival.

Urban art is an art form in situ: the environment being an integral part of the creative process. This aesthetic of the ephemeral allows ownership of the real and the public space. Artists create the definition of a new urbanity, together with the public as well,  playing the role of actor and spectator. Expect graffiti, mosaics, installations, street performances and more

Programme:
Wednesday, April 29:
18:30 Photo opening of the exhibition "Urban Art" at the Fes French Institute Gallery
Thursday, April 30:
14:30: Workshop Hip-Hop: Dar Batha
19h: mini-clips Projection and mini films of urban artists, followed by a concert evening. Boujloud Cinema
Saturday, May 2:
10 am: Dance Competition at Dar Batha

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Boxing Training and Fitness in Fez

On Saturday May 2nd and Sunday May 3rd there is another chance to take part in boxing training with Christophe Tendil at Riad Jardin des Biehn. Bring your boxing gloves!

Boxing is great for muscle strength, cardiovascular endurance and flexibility, speed, power and balance.

Christophe Tendil is a veteran boxer, with nine titles under his belt – three times French kickboxing champion (1992, 1993, 1994), one time European Champion (1995) and World Champion in kickboxing in 1997 and 1998. Later in his career, he moved to mainstream boxing, where he also excelled. Tendil was crowned French champion in 2002; Intercontinental champion in 2004 and 2005 and World Champion in 2007.

Christophe Tendil 

“I started boxing 20 years ago,” Tendil told The View from Fez. “At that time I absolutely needed to do a sport, as I was taking the wrong turn in life with the wrong crowd. Boxing came by chance, and thanks to this discipline I found a healthy way of life. I fought my first fight a few months after I started, and since then have had a total of 122 fights in a career spanning 17 years.”

There are three hour sessions every morning from 09:30 to 12.30
Price: 600 DH or for 700 Dh include a relaxing 30 minute massage (depending on availability)
Price: 700 DH (relaxing massage for 30 minutes to availability)

To book email: contact@jardindesbiehn.com

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Sunday, April 26, 2015

Fes Festival of Sufi Culture 2015 ~ Photographic Retrospective


Photo: Priam Thomas   (Click on any image to enlarge)

Festival Highlights

Samaà with the Tariqa Charqawiyya of Jazuliyya-Shadhiliyya  (see review here)

Samaà with the Tariqa Charqawiyya was a high energy event that many in the audience rated as the most engaging  samaà of the festival.

Kudsi Erguner: see review here

For many, the music and generous nature of Kudsi Erguner was the most enjoyable experience of the festival. This humble man produced celestial music from his nay.

Fatima Azzahra Kortobi - a fine opening night performance

Fatima Azzahra Kortobi and Marouane Hajji were in top form on the opening night. Fatima Azzahra's voice was superb and the first night tribute to the poet Rabiaa was a perfect opening to the festival.

Beautiful renditions of Rumi's poetry

Mention should also be made of the beautiful renditions of poems by Rumi, with music and narration, performed at several of the round table discussions. Poems were read by Katia and Gabrielle Légeret and the accompaniment by Mohammad Ali Merati and singing by Taghi Akbari. Thank you!

The Turkish Explosion!

Photo Priam Thomas

More than anything else, the 2015 festival will be remembered as the year of the Turks. Not only because of the sublime ney of Kudsi Erguner, but also the two Sufi Tariqas whose spectacular displays and samaà were a huge pleasure for the audiences.

Chaykh Nur Allah Fatih - Photo Priam Thomas

The leader of the Tariqa Khalwatiyya, Chaykh Nur Allah Fatih, is no stranger to festivals in Fez and it was a delight to have him back again.  Once more we were treated to an intense display of the dramatic power of the Khalwatiyya and in particular the extraordinary grace of Burak Bildik and his "whirling Dervish" brothers.

Burak Bildik
A Turkish spectacular

The only odd moment amidst the "Turkish Delights" was the combined Tariqas' "Turkish Circus Bezerkus" on the closing night. While it was an incredible spectacle and possessed extreme high energy, the cultural reference points were beyond most in the audience. Nevertheless it became the number one discussion subject the next day.

Round Table Discussions

The round table discussions at this festival were controversial, not because of their subjects, but rather the lack of professional moderation. Too often, introductions took up to 40 minutes and became presentations in themselves.  In one case a Amazigh poet, who many had come to listen to, was given only five minutes.

  Guest, Roderick Grierson,  praised the Festival programme. Photo Priam Thomas

While it is acknowledged by the critics (mostly amongst the French contingent) that the moderators have extensive knowledge, their role is to facilitate and keep the presentations on track. If their input is deemed necessary, then they should be panel members have another person act as moderator.

It was not until the final day that a Round Table became an actual discussion rather than the presentation of a paper. Much of the problem could be solved by returning to a more informal discussion format and having interaction between the guests and with the audience.

The Verdict?

The 2015 Fes Festival of Sufi Culture was a success and gave many visitors their first experience of Sufi Culture. Future festivals should build on this.  Congratulations to Director  Faouzi Skali and his team, logistically it was one of the best run we have experienced over the years.

There is still a lack of material in English which, as has been pointed out many times, is a real problem given that every year the number of people who understand English rather than French, increases. English is either a first or second language for most of the Europeans, Americans and Australians who attend the Festival. Our visitors come from around the world rather as in the old days, mainly from France. Many people suggested there be Arabic and English presentation with headset translations into French for those who don't understand Arabic or English.

The audience has its say


"More music and fewer academics." - Astrid from California.
"A wider range of Sufi groups and, please, shorter introductions that actually tell us something about the Brotherhood performing" - Albert from Bordeaux
"Only one discussion each day and the inclusion of Pakistani and Indian Sufis" - Jurgen, Cologne.
"Where is the English program?" -  Pentti, Helsinki, Finland
"I would like to see more of the experiential and less of the philosophical." - Maria, Barcelona.
"A chance to dance! More joy, less talk." - Rebecca, Manchester, UK.
"Combining two Tariqas such as the Siqilliyya and the Wazzaniyya meant we did not get the full experience of either." -  Abdellah, Marrakech.
"I had a fabulous time!"- Monique, Paris.

Among the dozens of comment received by The View from Fez, this year's classic comes from an American woman who has attended several festivals. "It's either that my butt is getting bigger, or these chairs are smaller than last year."

Thanks to ...

Ashraf: for running the best security team yet
Sound and lighting - great work by Khalid Malak and his team
Thibaut Chandelier: Efficient, helpful and gracious facilitation of just about everything!
Si Mohammed Najib: for reminding us that being a Sufi is about the heart
Ismail: for divine mint tea
Rachida El Jokh and Priam Thomas

Photos and text: Priam Thomas and Sandy McCutcheon

The View from Fez Team
Sandy McCutcheon - text and photos
Priam Thomas - text and photos
Rachida El Jokh - Camera assistant and translator

See other Festival reports
Sufi Festival  ~ Day One
Sufi Festival ~ Day Two
Sufi Festival ~ Day Three
Sufi Festival ~ Day Four
Sufi Festival ~ Day Five
Sufi Festival ~ Day Six
Sufi Festival ~ Day Seven
Sufi Festival ~ Day Eight

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Saturday, April 25, 2015

Fes Festival of Sufi Culture ~ Day Eight

"The listener is the performer, and the performer is the listener" ~ Rumi
Click on images to enlarge 

Morning Round Table

The final Round Table was on the practical application of Sufism. As such, it was a fitting conclusion to the Festival of Sufi Culture. Faouzi stated in his introduction, that we often think of spiritual path as leading to a denouncement of the world. What comes to mind might be an ascetic who lives away from society in the mountains. But this is not true of the great spiritual figures of Sufism. He argued that Sufism carries an ingrained social responsibility based on "spiritual chivalry" or Futuwwa.

Bariza Khiari - Photo Priam Thomas

In a progressive twist on the traditional understanding of the term chivalry, Faouzi praised female politician Bariza Khiari as its embodiment, and asked her to start the discussion. The audience had already heard her speak on the opening day, but Bariza is a passionate and engaging speaker. She explained that Fatuwwa has two aspects: one spiritual and the other ethical. Together, they make up "the interior and exterior man". Through spiritual reflection, she argued that leaders can achieve a "depassment de contraires," an overcoming of conflicts, by opening their minds to a third way. She closed with a poem by Muhammad Iqbal.

Photo Priam Thomas

Second to speak was Khalil Merroun, the Imam of a mosque in Paris. He talked about the importance of sincerity and self reflection in order to achieve an "Ablution du coeur et l'esprit." "I meditate to reflect and find the force to meet my responsibilities,” he said. Abdullah Wasani also spoke. His talk focussed on charity and leadership. He stated "Chivalry is profoundly believing you are at the service of others." He told the audience that it is important for all of us to be spiritual leaders and lead through example.

Abdullah Wasani - Photo Priam Thomas

Faouzi was in great form as moderator, ensuring that speakers kept their talks simple and to the topic. Talks were kept to about 10 - 15 minutes, so that the Round Table came across as a discussion, rather than a series of independent lectures. This ensured that everyone could speak, and still have time at the end for audience discussion. As a result, the Round Table was more engaging, and a big improvement on earlier sessions.

Afternoon Concert


Shaykh Hassan Dyck and the group Muhabbat Caravan are a truly international combination. In addition to the Shaykh, who lives in Germany, the group includes Anouar Barrada from Morocco, Ali Keeler from Andalucia, Ustad Daud Khan Sadozai from Afganistan  and Abdul Malik Dyck from Germany.


Daud Khan Sadozai, was born in Kabul in 1955. He studied Robab (a traditional lute-instrument of Afghanistan) with Ustad Muhammad Umar, who was the most famous Robab-interpret of the classical style as well as the traditional folklore style in his country.


Ali Keeler is no stranger to the festival having delighted the 2014 audiences with the Al Firdaus Ensemble with Keeler featuring on vocals and violin (see story here).
"The Caravan Muhabbat music is a journey, for each listener to travel along the different caravan trails that lead to the presence of the beloved. To kneel at the beloved’s threshold and inhale the sweet fragrance of the exalted Rawda (garden of paradise)"
Shaykh Hassan Dyck opened the concert by saying "it is an honour to meet you , your hearts and souls." This was followed by a traditional recitation of the opening lines from the Quran beautifully sung by Moroccan Anouar Barrada with the final lines being delivered by the Shaykh.

To the relief of the audience the Shaykh spoke English with an onstage translator delivering the French. It was a flawless way of making certain that everyone comprehended the songs. It is also something festival organisers could take on board given the growing number of English speakers in the audience.

The first song featured a Rumi poem but with a non-traditional musical accompaniement. The poem described the way of seeker of eternal love "must die before they die".

"Knowing too much hinders knowing at all.   
Does the wild man know his reasons?  
No he does crazy things without thought."

The first song sung by the Shaykh was breathlessly theatrical and dramatic - like Leonard Cohen singing blues. The audience appeared dumbstruck by his intimacy... intrigued or captivated.

The Shaykh's son, Abdul Malik Dyck, has a beautiful voice and sung like an angel. Ali Keeler's violin and his voice, when singing in an ancient Moriscos language was pitch perfect.

Abdul Malik Dyck

However, many in the audience felt the entire performance was overly saccharine and contrived to be "sacred". At the very least it started a debate among a number of French visitors about how much the spiritual supermarket is worth.

In the end the, "the listener is the performer...."


Evening Concert at Bab Makina


Before the final concert, the organisers of the Fes Festival of Sufi Culture had a surprise in store for the audience - a Turkish Delight. The massed Tariqas came on stage in an astoundingly circus like performance that was accompanied by a multitude of instruments and deep guttural voices.

Photo Priam Thomas

Some forty Turkish Sufis marched into the Bab Makina from backstage and proceeded across the front of the venue before assembling on stage.


They were dressed for Cirque de Soleil meets Ghengis Khan - astonishing. Playing two large drums the Turks exploded into a frenetic all or nothing attempt to beat the world record for twirling and head thrashing at the same time - the general consensus was that they succeeded. If there was any doubt about that verdict, then the judges need only consult the hundreds of smart phones that sprang into video mode to record it.

Photo Priam Thomas

The final night concert was a compilation of some great Moroccan samaà singers and Thami Harraq's Andalusian Ensemble. Born in 1959 in Tetouan, Thami al-Harrak is a member of the Harrâqiyya Brotherhood, founded there are more than two hundred years by his grandfather Sidi Muhammad al-Harraq.

Photo Priam Thomas

His "Troupe Thami al-Harraq", are dedicated to the sacred music, Andalusian mouachahates and Sufi poetry. Al-Harraq has participated in the Sacred Music Festival in Fez and Cairo Opera House, as well as to other festivals in Morocco and abroad.

At Bab Makina, the Ensemble fielded a strong team: 15 members of a typical Andalusian orchestra and 29 singers seated on the ground in front of them. During the evening various singers took solos, all were gifted with great voices, but the standout was Marouane Hajji, who proved, once again, that he was no one season wonder.

 Marouane Hajji - a stand out performer

Thami al-Harrak, the group leader, also sang with gusto and obvious enjoyment.

Photo Priam Thomas

The finale was just about the voices and after laying their instruments down, all 44 members sang their hearts out with popular material that the audience knew and loved. Their only aid was a single bass drum played in typical Moroccan style - one side struck with a large drumstick, the other with a light twig.

Photo Priam Thomas

It was a fitting end to an interesting festival that, although short on highlights was a solid display of Sufi music and culture.

Photos and text: Priam Thomas and Sandy McCutcheon



See other Festival reports

Sufi Festival  ~ Day One
Sufi Festival - Day Two
Sufi Festival ~ Day Three
Sufi Festival ~ Day Four
Sufi Festival ~ Day Five
Sufi Festival ~ Day Six
Sufi Festival ~ Day Seven
Sufi Festival ~ Day Eight

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