Fes Festival Day Three - Review

A cooler day in Fez with the temperature rising to 28 degrees Celsius under cloudy skies. 

So far the only sour note at this year's Festival is the dropping of English introductions and translations. Possibly because there is a new Festival team, there is no corporate memory or recognition of the need for English as so many visitors have English as first or second language. The last few years the Festival had made great progress in moving away from being a "Francophone club" - sadly they have slipped back into old habits.

DOULCE MEMOIRE (France) 16:30 JARDIN JNAN SBIL -Review by Lauren Crabbe

Doulce Mémoire took to the garden stage this afternoon to perform a repertoire that celebrates the Italian brotherhoods of the Renaissance - long-standing charitable associations within Christianity known for continuing ancestral traditions, religious devotion, and assisting the sick and poor. The theme seemed to strike a sombre chord with the ensemble, who filed onto the stage in formal black attire and began to play with little fanfare or even acknowledgement of their audience.

The musicians were technically excellent. If it weren't for their modern clothing, they could be plucked straight from a cathedral in the 17th century. Perfectly harmonised, richly traditional, displaying some beautiful and surprising tenor and soprano vocals, clearly well rehearsed - arguably too much so, as it felt like we were witnessing their dress rehearsal; being performed at rather than for. The repertoire varied little in terms of pace or mood, and didn't appear to captivate listeners as had the Moxos Ensemble of the previous day.

The group glided between songs with diminished outward animation, occasionally shuffling some sheet music or addressing the audience in French (a recurring theme of this year's festival; withholding any additional context or colour for non-Francophones), reserving their warmest smiles for one another. One exception was a vivacious and emotive soprano, who sang as though a fire were lit beneath her. She carried most of the group's zest and soul, and embodied the innovative, creative Renaissance virtues Doulce Mémoire stand for.


HESPERION XXI JORDI SAVALL 21:00 BAB AL MAKINA - Review by Sandy McCutcheon

This latest creation from the prolific Jordi Savall and his ensemble, Hespérion XXI, Ibn Battuta, Traveller of Islam was inspired by the extraordinary narrative of the Arab writer Ibn Battuta who travelled more than 120,000 kilometres in the 14th century. The venue at Bab al Makina was packed for what turned out to be a great concert. The only disappointment was the introduction and narration - once again in French and Arabic, ignoring the large anglophone contingent in the audience.

The introduction ignored the large number of English speakers

The narration was also only in French

Starting his journey in 1325 at the age of twenty one, Ibn Battuta roamed the world for more than thirty years, travelling from his native country, Morocco, all the way to the heart of China, and the largely unknown borders of Africa.

The concert was a musical journey through Ibn Battuta’s itinerary. After 1333, and after visiting North Africa, the Near East and the Persian Gulf, he arrived in Anatolia, reaching Constantinople, traversing the freezing steppes of Russia and, finally, arriving at the heart of Asia, all the way to Afghanistan and to the Sind country; contemporary Pakistan. He stayed for seven years in India before moving to the Maldive Islands and Ceylon. Eventually, he crossed Bengal and Indonesia, before reaching China. On his way back to Morocco, he visited Sardinia and what still remained of Andalucia, before crossing the Sahara, arriving in the Kingdom of Timbuctu, in the ancient Empire of Mali, before returning to Morocco in 1354. He passed away sometime between 1368 and 1377.

Waed Bouhassoun 

Jordi Savall is no stranger to the Fes Festival, having been a firm favourite in 2006, 2009, 2010 and 2014. He and his ensemble "Hespèrion" (derived from Classical Greek, referring to the people of the Italian and Iberian peninsulas) were in fine form. But for regular Festival patrons the performance lacked the intimacy of his performance at the Batha museum in 2014 when he performed with Moroccan Driss Al Maloumi playing the oud. Yet, even that did not detract from what was an inspiring creation.

Ballaké Sissoko from Mali on kora  

The Chinese contribution was a classical delight

The music of the Hespèrion XXI ensemble was enhanced by a number of guest appearances. Among them was Ballaké Sissoko from Mali whose kora contribution was a delight. Driss El Maloumi on oud was superb and when they were joined by Rajery from Madagascar playing the Valiha, (a tube zither from Madagascar made from a species of local bamboo). It was magical. The three men have been working on a project together and if their playing and singing is any indication, it should be stunning. Other artists included Waed Bouhassoun (Song and Oud), two performers from the Liyuanxinlei Art Troop from Sichuan and robab master Ustad Daud Khan Sadozai from Afghanistan.

With this new work, Jordi Savall has produced what could easily be the sound track to a movie about the travels of Ibn Battuta. At times the audience were transported by rhythms reminiscent of travel by horseback. At other times the music, sweet and lyrical, produced the sensation of dreaming. It was a journey worth taking.


SUFI NIGHTS TARIQA HABIBIYA, YASSIN HABIBI, MEKNES 23:00 . DAR TAZI

Tomorrow @ the Festival

Qawwals Bache

ORPHEUS XXI JORDI SAVALL 16:30 JARDINS JNAN SBIL

QAWWALS BACHE DELHI GHARANA OF KARACHI PAKISTAN 21:00 JARDIN JNAN SBIL

JESUS MENDEZ 22:00 DAR ADIYEL

DANCE OF TERALALI 22:00 COMPLEXE MOULAY YOUSSEF

SUFI NIGHTS TARIQA TWATIYA : YOUSSEF SEMLALI - FEZ 23:00 DAR TAZI

Festival weather: Cloudy 31 down to 17 at night



Credits: Photos and text Doulce Memoire - Lauren Crabbe
              Photos and text Jordi Savall - Sandy McCutcheon & Venetia Menzies

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