Thursday, April 21, 2016

Fes Festival Preview - Free Boujloud and Sufi Nights Program

During the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music there are free concerts in the Boujloud Square starting each evening at 10pm.  The Sufi Nights at Dar Tazi at 11pm are also free
Tariqa Boutchichiya
Saturday 7th
Boujloud Square: 22.00 free of charge
Regional Choir of Fes | Mohammed Soussi

Dar Tazi Sufi Nights 23h00: Touatiya Tariqa: Dar Dmana hal touat

Sunday 8th
Boujloud Square: 22h00 free of charge
Mourad Bouriki | Lamia Zaidi

Dar Tazi Sufi Nights 23h00: Harrakiya Tariqa from Safi

Monday 9th
Boujloud Square: 22.00
Batoul Marouani: Hassani Song | H-Kayne

Dar Tazi Sufi Nights 23h00: Chadilia Tariqa from Tangier

Tuesday 10th
Boujloud Square: 22.00
Participation of the French Institute in Fes: Buddha Bar | Omar Boutmazoukt: Amazigh Song

Dar Tazi Sufi Nights 23h00: Assaouia Tariqa

Wednesday 11th
Boujloud Square: 22h00
In association with the Pakistan Embassy: Najat Aatabou

Dar Tazi Sufi Nights 23h00: Machichiya Tariqa: Al Houda Ensemble from Tangier

Najat Aatabou

Thursday 12th
Boujloud Square: 22h00
Mahmoud Al Idrissi | Khalid Ali Orchestra

Dar Tazi Sufi Nights 23h00: Bouchichiya Tariqa

Friday 13th
Boujloud Square: 22h00
Diego Cortès / Reda Taliyani

Dar Tazi Sufi Nights 23h00: Derqaouia Tariqa: Abdemjid Sweri from Essaouira

Saturday 14th
Boujloud Square: 22h00
Ba-jloud: music of the Jabali tradition | Aminux

Dar Tazi Sufi Nights 23h00: Hamdouchiya Tariqa (Fez Hamadcha) 

Festival highlight - The Fez Hamadcha will perform at the final Sufi Night

Sufi Nights and Boujloud Square events are free


Book other tickets here

The View From Fez is a Fes Festival official Media Partner

FULL FESTIVAL PROGRAMME HERE

See our other Fes Festival previews:
Opening Night Preview
Homage to India Preview
Divas of the World Preview
Nights in the Medina 1 Preview
Nights in the Medina 2 Preview
Nights in the Medina 3 Preview
Istanbul to Fez Preview
Tribute to Oum Keltoum Preview
Samira Saïd Preview
Forum Sessions Preview

Thanks to Helen Ranger for translations

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Essaouira's Gnaoua Festival Dates Clash


Following the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, it is the turn of Essaouira to host the 19th edition of the Gnaoua Festival of World Music. Unfortunately there has been a lack of scheduling arrangements between the two festivals with a two day overlap  
This failure by the organisers means that the Essaouira event begins on the 12th of May with Fez ending on the 14th and so fans will forced to miss either the last two great nights in Fez or the first two in Essaouira. 

Hoba Hoba Spirit - not to be missed

The Gnaoua Festival runs until the 15th. It will include tributes to three legendary musicians who died during 2015; Mahmoud Guinea,  Tayeb Saddiki and the Senegalese Doudou N'Diaye Rose.

The opening concert will dedicated be to Mahmoud Guinea and Doudou N'Diaye Rose. The diva Rachida Talal will be accompanied on stage by Mokhtar Guinea's brother Mahmoud and 12 percussionists, all children of Doudou.

As in previous editions, several big names of jazz will be present including Randy Weston, a pioneer of Gnaoua-jazz fusion, Jazz-funk bassist legend Jamaaledden Tacuma and rising star, jazz trumpeter Christian Scott.

The biggest news from 19th edition of the Gnaoua Festival will be an appearance by one of  the temporarily reunited Hoba Hoba Spirit, one of the most innovative groups in recent years. Also on the bill is Blitz the Ambassador from Ghana, who is expected to serve up a mixture of African sounds,  High-life and Afrobeat, with his original hip hop.

Another tribute concert will close the festival. Tayeb Saddiki will be honoured through a benefit led by Mohamed Derham, Nabil El Khaldi, Sayed Omar and Mustapha Maâlem Baqbou.

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Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Artists Residencies in the Fez Region

Artists residency programmes in Morocco are popular with visual and performance artists as well as writers and poets. Many organisations run programmes, some as tours, others as live-in residencies 

In the Fez region Culture Vultures, with its Artists Villa in Sefrou, is now well established and respected. In the Fez Medina Takafes provides accommodation in the heart of the Medina and facilitates projects, exhibitions and performances.

Through our program of tours, workshops and residencies, exhibitions and cultural events we have gained a foot in the salon of responsible tourism, cross cultural exchange and a multidisciplinary and multilingual arts dialogue. Artists and audience are encouraged to exchange, interact, collaborate, reflect, perform and create whilst under our reliable facilitation. -Jess Stephens, Culture Vultures

Culture Vultures has just commenced its Spring Residency in the market town of Sefrou. It runs through until the 15th of May. Their summer programme runs from the 11th of July to the 11th of August. Application Deadline is the 30th of April.

Takafes has announced its new residency programme in Fez. The residency will take place between the 15th of June and the 15th of July 2016. Artists are invited to apply for a minimum of two weeks up to a maximum of four weeks. As artists who have visited are aware, Fez is an inspiring and exciting location.


"Fez, the city that transcends time and space with its existence rooted in time (1200 years old). Fez is one of the top destinations for those who want to find themselves in deep states of awe and inspiration. The city is known for its cultural/ethnical diversity with an interesting contrast between traditional and modern aspects of Moroccan/Arab/Amazigh life" - Takafes
Takafes is is a cultural centre created to promote cultural diversity and innovative activities in Fez and the surrounding region. The aim of Takafes is to facilitate social change through cultural activities that promote the creation, appreciation and engagement of arts and culture and encouraging cultural exchange through artistic innovation.

Takafes believes they can provide a huge boost to the extent and standard of arts infrastructure in Fez. Their goal is to develop a network of artists and a range of facilities in Fez for audiences and artists, which, offers the highest standards of design, program operation and forms an artistic hub for creation, exhibition and engagement, with a national and international profile.

The new artists residency programme - Fez The Timeless - is open to artists working in the visual arts, conceptual and performing arts disciplines. Please note that it is a paid residency.

Photo credit: Marc Riboud

For more information contact; salam@takafes.ma
For Culture Vultures in Sefrou, contact Jess Stephens: culture.vulture1@rocketmail.com




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Tuesday, April 19, 2016

Cannabis in Morocco - the Struggle to Decriminalise


The Party for Authenticity and Modernity (PAM) have joined the push to legalise the production of cannabis in Morocco. Their move comes in a parliamentary bill to create a national cannabis agency
The bill, submitted last Wednesday, proposes that a new national agency will be responsible for the production and marketing of cannabis for industrial or therapeutic purposes.


To ensure security of the sales, the new agency would include representatives of the Ministries of the interior, health, agriculture and the Royal Police.

While the sale and consumption of marijuana is still illegal in the country, analysts estimate the market is worth 10% of Morocco’s GDP, roughly $11.7 billion a year.

PAM are not the only political party moving in this direction, with Istiqlal having a draft bill in preparation to legalise the sale of cannabis, which they see as the first step in aiding the region's small farmers and the local economy.

Most likely any moves towards changing the status quo will founder on political grounds, with strong opposition from the governing Justice and Development Party (PJD).  Following a recent symposium on cannabis, organised by the Regional Council of Tangier-Tetouan-Al Hoceima,  the PJD released a statement saying that it maintained a “categorical refusal of any questionable approaches that aim to decriminalise the cultivation and consumption of cannabis because of the proven danger to the health of citizens and social cohesion.”

The PJD, whose secretary general is Morocco’s head of government, also accused supporters of the decriminalisation of cannabis cultivation of “exploiting” the issue “for electoral purposes.”

“The fact is that decriminalising the cultivation of cannabis, its trade and its consumption will inevitably lead to its spread…which will…strengthen the domestic and international drug trafficking networks that go against the interests of citizens, the reputation of Morocco and the country’s international obligations,” the PJD said.

The symposium, the first international conference on drugs and cannabis,  was held on the 18 and 19 March in Tangier with the theme: .“Alternatives Based on Sustainable Development, Health and Human Rights”.

Ilyass El Omari

At the opening of the conference, the Secretary General of the Authenticity and Modernity Party, Ilyass El Omari, said that the problem of cannabis cultivation required opening a frank and responsible dialogue between political, economic and human rights actors, placing the issue of job creation at the centre of the conversation.

For El Omari, approaching the issue of cannabis cultivation in general as well as its socio-cultural implications specifically should not override the most pressing objectives, which are the realisation of socio-economic justice and improving the living conditions of the local population.

However, in disagreement with recommendations concluded by symposium, Abdessamad Sekkal, president of the Rabat-Salé-Kenitra region and PJD member, believes this type of cultivation is leading to the destruction of local development in northern areas, as well as social disintegration.

“This type of agriculture leads to the production of drugs, which means every process that aims to facilitate cultivation of cannabis would only lead automatically to the exacerbation of the spread of drugs,” says Sekkal.

Abdessamad Sekkal

At the same time there is another agenda at play, with a more international impact.  Franco Roberti, Italy's top prosecutor, recently told Reuters that decriminalising cannabis sales would strike a blow against Islamic State militants and Italian mobsters who, according to ongoing investigations, are working together smuggling hashish.

The main smuggling route for North African hash - compressed cannabis resin - now runs from Casablanca, through Algeria, Tunisia to Tobruk in eastern Libya, said Roberti.

Along that route is the seaside city of Sirte, which now serves as a Mediterranean base for the most powerful Islamic State (IS) branch outside Syria and Iraq.

Meanwhile, while the politicians argue the merits of decriminalising, the illicit trade goes on. Moroccan authorities announced on Saturday that they foiled a smuggling operation in the coastal city of Agadir involving 17.4 tonnes of cannabis meant to be sent to Scandinavian countries.

The drugs were packed in bags to be transported by vessels on the high seas, authorities said in a statement.

Moroccan security services arrested seven people and seized $100,000 in cash, two trucks, four cars, ships, arms and ammunition.

Last Sunday, Morocco said it had also aborted a smuggling involving 6.3 tonnes of cannabis heading to Europe.


Cannabis cultivation, which was legal in some areas of the Rif until 1974, is deep-rooted in the region of northern Morocco, and farmers continue to grow cannabis regardless of the legal consequences, with, according to the United Nations, about 80,000 families in the Rif Mountains make their living off of growing cannabis.

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Monday, April 18, 2016

The Coffee King of Fez


In a tiny and extremely modest shop in the R'cif souk is a man whose spiced coffee mix is now drunk and appreciated around the world
Youssef Bouhlal - king of spiced coffee

If making a great cup of coffee is a barista's art, then Morocco is a land of artists. The coffee in many instances is Arabica grown in Côte d'Ivoire. But the best coffee in Morocco is more than simply a good bean well roasted. For the connoisseur there is spiced coffee. In the souks of Morocco are small stallholders making a living selling coffee and spices. For around forty dirhams (about $4.00) you can purchase a kilo of Arabica beans that are then ground with a mixture of up to nine spices. These include; nutmeg and black pepper corns.

While there are many places you can purchase spiced coffee, Youssef Bouhlal has become renowned for his nine spice coffee, with clients in America, Australia, New Zealand and the European Union. His tiny shop is located in the R’cif souk in the Fez Medina. If you can’t make it all the way to Fez, you can experiment with your own blend at home. Youssef does not measure by instruments, but by intuition and we suggest you can do the same.


Youssef is shy about disclosing his entire mix, but we have deduced that a kilo of Arabica beans were ground with sesame seeds,  cloves, black pepper, whole nutmeg, cinnamon, cassia bark, anise seed, ginger powder ... and some things we couldn't recognise! And the cost? 42 dirhams (4.30 USD) per kilo.

As regular Fez visitor, Georgia Bartlett from London, told The View From Fez, "I fell in love with Yussef's coffee when I came to the Medina. Now I have given kilos to my parents in Hong Kong and my cousins in New Zealand. It is crazy, a kilo costs less than a coffee in London!"

Fez resident Sue Bail agrees,"Most people think that the artisan crafts are on;u ceramics, carving and so on, but I have been hooked on Youseff's coffee for the last four years and take it for friends and family in both Australia and Germany. Youseff is a coffee artisan of world class!"

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A Win for English is a Win for Morocco

According to Rachid Belmokhtar, the Minister of National Education and Vocational Training, Moroccan students will begin studying English, as a part of a newly enhanced language curriculum. Experts say this is a positive step for Morocco
“For Moroccans today, the English language is an important goal. The ministry of education has implemented an important program which will begin in primary school and teach English language to students.” - Rachid Belmokhtar

In a recent article in Morocco World News,  Ali Anthony Bell, the  Head of Studies at the BKHS Language Centre in Casablanca stressed the importance of English in Morocco's future development.

"We are faced with a dilemma here in Morocco." Bell said,  "85% of Moroccans surveyed believe that English should replace French as the 2nd language; however, the Cultural, Economic, and Political ties with France and the French language are so strong that this change is difficult for many people to imagine.

While I completely agree with the importance of making English a priority and integrating it into the primary school curriculum, I do not agree that English should replace French as L2. In my opinion, eliminating French will do more harm than good, also creating a communication gap between the generations.


Bell says it is his sincere belief that Morocco, for the sake of its future, should make English a priority and start including it as of the first year, alongside, and not in competition with Arabic or French. Keeping one’s roots is also essential. All of the languages spoken in Morocco are a part of its identity, and replacing one language with another in the educational system, would be a fundamental error. English should not be a replacement for either French or Arabic, or even Amazigh for that matter; it is a complementary language skill.

Bell points out that there are some 25,000 common words between French and English, 99% of which mean the same thing. This is another reason for keeping the French language alive in Morocco; it can only help in the acquisition of the English language for many people.

He goes on to say that every new language we speak opens new possibilities, and likewise, our possibilities are limited by our languages. We are called to expand the limits of our horizons to encompass the whole world, and English is the only language which has this possibility. For the next generation, and for the future of the planet, let us make global communication a priority.

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Sunday, April 17, 2016

The ArbaA Experimental Chaâbi Concert Review


The French Institute's Dar Batha venue in Fez was the place to be on Saturday night. An over-capacity crowd packed into the dar to enjoy the concert of "experimental chaâbi" music


The French members of ArbaA (yes, they do have a capital "A") had only been rehearsing with the Moroccan musicians for a week, but it didn't show. Right from the start they came in hard, fast and remarkably tight. Sound engineer Mathieu Ryo had the balance spot on and delivered great sound in what can often be a difficult venue.

Saxophonist Benoît Black and Mathieu Picard on bass

Taking their cues from saxophonist Benoît Black, the group went straight to work on the opening number, building from the quieter opening bars to a dizzy, repetitive, almost hypnotic beat, thanks to the laid back bass work by Mathieu Picard, superb drumming from Clément Black and Najat Aâtabou's percussionist, Saïd Idrissi, on darbuka. Idrissi's work was stunning in its speed and delicacy, delivered without theatrics, in a seemingly relaxed manner.

Saïd Idrissi, on darbuka

For the second offering the Moroccans made a temporary exit while the ArbaA Experimental Chaâbi Quartet remained on stage and showed us the jazz style they have become well known for.  Then it was back to the full crew for the remainder of the concert. The repetitive and polyrhythmic building blocks in place there were some virtuoso solo breaks from Léo Fabre-Cartier on oud, Mohammed Kadhri on violin and the every-present trippy saxophone from Benoît Black.

Léo Fabre-Cartier on oud

The final standing ovation was well deserved and was followed by an encore that ended the concert.

The audience had enjoyed themselves and discussions went on afterwards in the street about "fusion" and "chaâbi".  Fusion is a much overused term and in the end the labels didn't matter - we were left feeling uplifted by a night of exciting music.

Mohammed Kadhri 

Saïd Idrissi, Darbuka (Percussion)
Mohammed Kadhri, Violon
Benoît Black, Saxophones, compositions
Clément Black, Drums, compositions
François Rème, Fender Rhodes, MS 20
Mathieu Picard, Bass
Léo Fabre-Cartier, Oud
Mathieu Ryo, son
Production : Laure-Meriem Rouvier for King Tao productions

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Saturday, April 16, 2016

Will King Mohammed VI Inaugurate the New Fez Airport This Week?

The new Fes-Sais airport appears to be complete - all 17,000 square metres of it. Yet, its commissioning has been postponed several times. King Mohammed VI is in Fes at the moment and many locals expect he will inaugurate not only the airport but possibly the extensive renovations in R'cif
The new airport is ready for business

The airport as been constructed to accommodate 2.5 million passengers a year. The work on the terminal was supported by the National Office of airports (ONDA) and the African development Bank and had a budget of around 479 million dirhams (50 million USD).


In 2015, the volume of commercial traffic at the airport was close to 890,000 passengers, an increase of 12% compared to 2014 and nearly 725,000 overnight stays were registered in Fez in 2015.

A project to launch a direct flight Fez-Dakar also recently been raised by the Moroccan National Tourist Office (ONMT). In late March, a new route to the French city of Toulouse was launched by Air Arabia.

The Dyers' Souq - now completed

Fez, as the nation's spiritual capital has become increasingly popular with foreign tourists but also for African pilgrims who visit the grave of a spiritual figure, Sidi Ahmed Tijani.


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Friday, April 15, 2016

Arbaa Experimental Chaâbi ~ Concert in Fez


Saturday night in Fez there is a special concert of experimental Chaâbi music - a collaboration between the ArbaA Experimental group and Moroccan musicians. The View From Fez caught up with the groups producer Laure-Meriem Rouvier...

Laure-Meriem Rouvier

Chaabi (الشعبي in Arabic), also known as Chaâbi, Sha-bii, or Sha'bii, refers to a popular music genre in North Africa that differs slightly from country to country - such as Algerian chaabi, Moroccan chaabi and Egyptian chaabi. Chaabi music is popular at weddings and this style is often associated with the festivals. The use of popular language and the creation of new rhythms have made this style an essential complement to the dance.

The ArbaA Experimental Chaâbi 

The ArbaA Experimental Chaâbi quartet (arbaa - Arabic four) has been around for the last decade but in its present configuration has been working together for two and a half years. For this concert they are joined by Moroccan musicians.

Saïd Idrissi, Darbuka (Percussion)
Mohammed Kadhri, Violon
Benoît Black, Saxophones, compositions
Clément Black, Drums, compositions
François Rème, Fender Rhodes, MS 20
Mathieu Picard, Bass
Léo Fabre-Cartier, Oud
Mathieu Ryo, son
Production : Laure-Meriem Rouvier for King Tao productions

What makes this an exciting experiment is the meeting between the European instrumentalists and the three key instruments of Moroccan popular and art music: the darbuka, oriental violin and the oud. It s also impressive that the Moroccans are masters in their own sphere. For example,  darbuka player Saïd Idrissi, regularly plays with "the voice of the Atlas", Najat Aâtabou.

Oud player, Léo Fabre-Cartier, is also a much respected musician who will be familiar to many Fez residents.

Léo Fabre-Cartier

ArbaA's repetitive groove jazz training was much inspired by traditional African music to create a director merge with Western music and African American. Moroccan music, by its repetitive and polyrhythmic building, has always been an inspiration to the quartet.

The Experimental Chaabi is the right meeting point between his powerful combo ArbaA and subtle Moroccan instruments, between the swaying trance chaâbi and hypnotic rhythms quartet. It is an open and accessible music and the concert is not to be missed!

The concert starts at 7pm at Dar Batha - sponsored by the French Institute.
They will also perfom in Casablanca on Sunday at B-Rock


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