Friday, November 23, 2007

English haven in Chefchaouen




Lumen loves Chefchaouen. There's nothing more relaxing than sitting in a pavement cafe on Uta al-Hammam square watching the world go by, followed by a little browsing in the excellent shops. She was honoured to be the guest this last weekend of John Wilkinson, the British Consul's warden of Chefchaouen, at his pied-a-terre in this small town in the Rif Mountains.
John's house is a perfect delight - and best of all, it's for rent at the incredibly low rate of Dh400 per night, for the whole house.
The house consists of one twin-bedded room and one single room on the ground floor, with a luxurious bathroom (with tub - and heated towel rail). Up one flight is a large living room comprising a kitchen with everything you'd need, and dining table. There's a study area, lots of bookcases, a wonderful white piano on which John played Bach and Chopin, and a comfortable sitting area with TV and chimney. Go up another flight to discover a very special roof terrace, fully furnished, with a lovely fountain big enough to dip your toes in, and fabulous views of the surrounding mountains. The house is in the medina of Chefchaouen, close to parking at Ras Al-mar. Book at www.fez-riads.com.





After soaking up the atmosphere in the square, John, Lumen and Si Mohamed Toumi drove off for lunch in the mountains, at the Caiat Lounge Retreat that serves delicious meals and offers trekking opportunities as well as accommodation (www.caiat.com).

An excellent dinner at Chez Hassan rounded off the weekend (oh, and just a little shopping), and Lumen returned to Fez on the CTM bus that takes just over 4 hours to complete the journey.



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