Happy New Year from The View From Fez

Have a fantastic 2014!

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News Briefs # 108

Aid Deal with Gulf States

Qatar and Morocco have signed an aid deal worth US $1.25 billion. It forms part of a package of financial assistance over five years from the wealthy Gulf states to Morocco, with the aim of helping it to weather the Arab Spring protests

The Emir of Qatar and King Mohammed VI have signed an aid deal

Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and the United Arab Emirates have agreed to provide aid worth a total 5 billion dollars to Morocco until 2017 to build up its infrastructure, strengthen its economy and foster tourism.

Each of the four countries has committed 1.25 billion dollars to Morocco for the whole five year period.

King Mohammed VI signed an agreement last Friday with Emir of Qatar. The aid will be very welcome in order to reduce social discontent that helped to oust rulers elsewhere in North Africa, including Tunisia and Egypt.

Morocco is under heavy pressure from international lenders to reduce its budget deficit after spending heavily on food and energy subsidies and higher public sector salaries in 2011 and 2012, to help defuse social tensions.

Morocco has budgeted to receive a total 1 billion dollars in aid from the Gulf states for 2014. It hopes to cut its budget deficit to 4.9 percent of gross domestic product next year from an estimated 5.5 percent in 2013.

Qatar was the last of the four Gulf states to sign the aid accord with Morocco.

The Gulf states have agreed a similar package of aid, also worth a total 5 billion dollars over a five-year period, for Jordan.


China Plans Strategic Alliance with Morocco

China is also wooing Morocco - the latest in a line of US allies. Last Tuesday December 23 King Mohammed VI met with Chinese foreign minister Wang Yi, who is on an official visit, at the Royal palace in Rabat

Chinese foreign minister Wang Yi meets King Mohammed VI in Rabat

Officials said China has been planning a summit with Morocco in an effort to establish a strategic alliance. Morocco has found relations with Washington under President Barack Obama less than congenial. There has been tension over the US support for Algeria as well as efforts to undermine Rabat's control of the disputed Western Sahara.

The officials said the alliance could be formally launched during a visit by Moroccan King Mohammed to Beijing. “We welcome this invitation,” a Moroccan official said. The date has not yet been named for the visit.

At least 20 Chinese companies are operating in Morocco, with trade in 2012 reported to be around 300 million euro.


Terrorist Cell Dismantled

Moroccan authorities said on Thursday they had dismantled a “terrorist cell” operating in several cities that included people trained in the use of firearms and explosives

North Africa has been on heightened alert in recent years as regional jihadist groups have grown more powerful and as the turmoil in Libya following Muammar Qaddafi’s 2011 overthrow has left the vast and mostly desert region awash with weapons.

Morocco’s interior ministry said the operation had netted an individual who had been detained in the past on terrorism charges and who was now coordinating nationwide operations, including fundraising and recruiting militants.

The ministry did not specify the number of people arrested nor the cities in which the operation took place.

Morocco has announced the dismantling of several alleged terrorist cells this year, and authorities have expressed concern about the proliferation of extremist groups.

Al-Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb, the global terror network’s North Africa affiliate, released a video in September calling for jihad in Morocco, which it referred to as a “kingdom of corruption and despotism.”

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Writers' Workshop in March in Morocco

Writer Christina Ammon

From March 10 to 17, American writer and adventurer Christina Ammon will be co-hosting Deep Travel, a writers' workshop in Moulay Idriss and Fez. Here Christina shares her initial experiences of Morocco 

I’ll be the first to say it: I’m an unlikely tour guide.

When I stepped off the ferry in Tangier in December of 2011, I didn’t even want to be in Morocco. How strange: Who wouldn’t jump to experience the Arabian Nights ambiance of Marrakech, to survey the infinite Sahara from atop a camel, and to indulge in savoury lamb tagines?

But as I lugged my suitcase off the boat onto the terminal platform, and looked across the Strait of Gibraltar toward Spain, I felt the pang of exile. I hadn’t arrived on my own terms. My EU visa had expired in Spain and Morocco was the nearest route to an exit stamp. My boyfriend would stay behind to repair our broken camper van. I would go it alone.

As I wandered Tangier’s cobbled medina, it wasn’t the touts and catcalls that bothered me, but the pure, simple fact of loneliness.

Christina at the location of A House in Fez

 I hid in a plush chair at El Minzah, once the watering hole of writers William Burroughs, and lost myself in the book, A House in Fez by Suzanna Clarke. While a jazz pianist played into the evening, I followed Clarke through her struggles to restore the crumbling walls and tile work of her riad in a country foreign to her. By the end of the book, Clarke felt like a friend.

Eventually I ventured back onto Tangier’s streets. What to do? I sat atop a camel and donned a fez for a photograph. I stroked Berber rugs and made faux friendships with guides. I was grateful to a kind waiter who made small chitchat and kindly carried my too-hot glass of mint tea two city blocks to my hotel every evening.

When word came from Spain that the truck was still not fixed, I moved on to Fez. There I sat alone in the cold center room of my hotel-riad and realized: I’d seen pretty mosques, studied zellij fountains, sampled dozens of different olives, but I hadn’t really had a real human connection in two weeks.

This was not the sort of travel that appealed to me.

And so I did something bold: sent an email Suzanna Clarke. I was surprised to get a quick response: An invite to dinner! That evening, over beef kefta I think they sensed my dislocation. When I arrived back to my riad and checked my email, there was an invite for me to stay with them.

I accepted and the next day they situated me in one of the rooms I’d read about in her book. I woke in the morning to sun slanting through the decorative wrought-iron window and a fruit tree so close it seemed I could nearly pluck an orange from bed. Together we wrote through the mornings over cups of spiced coffee, and in the evenings drank Moroccan mint cocktails while their cat purred by the heater. Day after day, I got word that the truck was still not repaired, but it was okay now. I was now wearing babouche slippers and a djellaba and dancing the time away with my new friends.

I ventured into the medina with newfound confidence. Fez’ harrowing network of 9,000 byways seemed less forbidding now, each turn now offering a story. Soon, I was penning articles for Conde Nast, The San Francisco Chronicle and The Oregonian, trying to capture all my discoveries—a charismatic local photographer, a winemaker, a big-hearted donkey veterinarian, a man passionate about the restoration of the medina, and a man who made the most magical spiced coffee.

Workshop hosts Erin Byrne and Christina Ammon

That first visit to Morocco was at the time a strange type of suffering, but ultimately about discovery. I’m happy to return to Morocco on entirely different terms—not to flee an expired visa and a broken-down truck, but to lead a workshop and a tour. This journey will be a special one, a potent one-week distillation of the gems it took me months to find.

Christina Ammon's Deep Travel writers' workshop, co-hosted with writer Erin Byrne and poet Anna Elkins, aims to share the best of what Morocco has to offer in the way of chefs, authors, photographers, and even winemakers in Fez and in Morocco’s most sacred city, Moulay Idriss. Other contributors include writer and photographer Suzanna Clarke, writer Sandy McCutcheon and photographer Omar Chennafi. 

To learn more about the workshop, which runs from March 10 -17, visit: 
http://www.e-byrne.com/workshop.html

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Happy Christmas from Fez

The View From Fez wishes our readers a

Happy, Joyful and Fun Christmas!

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Dining in Fez Over the Festive Season

While most restaurants in the Fez Medina are now fully booked for Christmas and New Year's Eve, there are still a few options then and until January 5  

Fez Cafe still have a few tables available for Christmas and New Year's Eve. On Christmas Day, their offerings includes a starter of ravioles avec sa petite gambas and a main of turbot avec asperges et ses pampelmousses rose, with pintade aux marrons for dessert. For New Year's Eve the menu includes a starter of crème de marron à d'huile argan, a main of médaillion de boeuf en crépine, with mascapone à l'orange for dessert. During the festive season they are open every day from 7.30 pm to 10 pm, or later with a booking.

Dar Finn still has a couple seats for Christmas Eve dinner and Christmas Day dinner. Their Christmas Day Dinner includes beef tagine with almonds and eggs and baked orange and lemon cheesecake for dessert. They also offer traditional Moroccan music from 6 pm, with dinner from 8 pm.

The Ruined Garden may have availability with their regular menu in the garden on New Year's Eve, depending on the weather. On other days, they are open as normal every day except Wednesdays from 1 pm to 9.30 pm. Reservations are advisable if you would like to be in the salon.

Dar Roumana is will be open every night from now until January 5. They are fully booked for Christmas Day and New Years Eve, but have a few tables left on other dates - so call and check availability.

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Mega Shopping Mall for Casablanca

The concept plan for the new Zenata Eco-City in Casablanca

An agreement has been signed to build the largest shopping mall in Morocco, and one of the biggest in North Africa. The new center, to be called Zenata Eco-City, will be located on the eastern outskirts of Casablanca and is scheduled to open in 2017 

The Moroccan mall will include 120,000 square metres of retail space across two levels, including a 26,000sqm IKEA store, a 8,350 square metre Marjane hypermarket, a 10,000 square metre leisure and fun zone and a 3,400 square metre cinema, as well as other retailers.

Zenata Eco-City’s 1,830 hectare master-plan is expected to become home to 300,000 people as part of a strategic plan to reduce socio-economic imbalances in Casablanca and to boost the city’s economy.

Al-Futtaim Group vice president Omar Al Futtaim

The shopping mall is being developed by Dubai-based conglomerate the Al-Futtaim Group - a group which employs more than 40,000 people across 100 companies in 30 markets. This is their first project in Morocco and they are undertaking it in conjunction with Marjane Holdings, a leading Moroccan retail developer, and Portuguese company Sonae Sierra, which owns 49 shopping centres and manages 85 malls internationally.

Al-Futtaim Group vice president Omar Al Futtaim said, “This is a major milestone for Al-Futtaim Group’s inaugural foray into Morocco’s 32 million-strong market as we continue our regional expansion drive in the African continent...With roughly 15 percent of the country’s total population concentrated in the immediate catchment area of this development, our investment promises to yield the right returns.”

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Ryanair to Cancel Morocco Flights

Low-cost airline Ryanair announces it will axe 30 routes between Morocco and Europe from April 1, 2014

The decision to cancel 30 flights between Morocco and Europe was made due to the Moroccan government's intention to tax airline tickets. The new airline tax will apply to "all movements from Morocco" and will add 100 dirhams to economy class tickets and 400 dirhams for first or business class. It comes into force on April 1, 2014. The aim of the new tax is to help the tourism sector, including funding the activities of the Moroccan National Tourist Office.

The announcement was made last Thursday via a press release from Ryanair and ran in the French newspaper Sud Ouest and a number of online sites.

The cancellation of flights to Fez, which is one of Ryanair's hubs in Morocco, is likely to hit tourism in the city particularly hard as the airline is one of the few offering direct flights to Europe. A new terminal is currently under construction at Fez airport to service the flights.

Riad managers and owners are deeply dismayed by the prospect. Vanessa Bonnin, who manages the riad and restaurant Dar Roumana in Fez said, " Tourism in Morocco was just getting back on its feet after the financial crisis and the Arab Spring. When the Moroccan government does things like this, it's us that gets caught in the middle between the airlines and the government. It seems counterproductive when the intention should be to encourage people to come to Morocco."

Ms Bonnin pointed out that Ryanair have done this before, when low-cost airlines cancelled flights to Morocco for several months in 2012, following a dispute over increased airport charges. "Ryanair pulls out and the government eventually capitulates," she said. "But in the meantime, we all lose out. The last time this happened, we lost 50% of our business for several months. A large part of our business is guests who come from the UK on the Ryanair flight on Thursday and return on Sunday...Fez is still a developing destination, and this feels like a kick in the teeth."

To see our previous story on the new airline tax, CLICK HERE.

To see our story about the 2012 crisis with Ryanair and other low-cost airlines, CLICK HERE. 

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Morocco's Hopes of Club World Cup Victory Dashed

Dante of Germany's Bayern Munich ecstatic at his goal against Morocco's Raja Casablanca

Moroccans turned out in force last night to cheer on Raja Casablanca against Bayern Munich in the Club World Cup. Despite all the excitement and support, the Moroccans lost against the German side by 2:0

Raja Casablanca had hoped to become the first African side to win the tournament, but fell against the overwhelming favourites. Bayern boss Pep Guardiola has now won the Club World Cup three times as a coach. The Spaniard previously triumphed with Barcelona in 2009 and 2011.

However, Raja Casablanca had exceeded all expectations to reach the final on home ground, previously beating Auckland City, Monterrey and Ronaldinho's Atletico Mineiro. Last night's match was played in front of an enthusiastic partisan crowd, which included King Mohammed VI and Crown Prince Moulay El Hassan, Prince Moulay Rachid, and Prince Moulay Ismail. King Mohammed VI chaired the awards ceremony. To see more photos of the ceremony, CLICK HERE.

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Morocco's Raja Casablanca make Club World Cup Final

On Wednesday December 18, in front of 40,000 ecstatic fans in Marrakech, Raja Casablanca achieved the seeming impossible - beating Ronaldinho's Atletico Mineiro to the Club World Cup final 

Raja Casablanca will challenge Bayern Munich in the final on December 21. They did not even qualify for the tournament, taking part only because they are the champions of the host country - making their achievement all the more impressive.

Their decisive three-to-one victory came in the last 10 minutes of the match, when they scored twice.

Raja, who qualified as champions of host nation Morocco, took the lead early in the second half when Mouhssine Iajour was sent clear on the right and fired a low shot past Victor. But former Barcelona and AC Milan star Ronaldinho curled a free-kick in off the post to level for the South American champions.

Raja regained the lead in the 83rd minute when Rever was judged to have tripped Iajour, although replays suggested no contact was made.

Mohaine Moutaouali fired home the controversial penalty in the 83rd-minute and Vivien Mabide wrapped it up in the fourth minute of stoppage time with a breakaway goal, much to the delight of their Tunisian-born 63-year-old coach Faouzi Benzarti. He has enjoyed three spells at the helm of his national team and also won the African Champions League in 1994 with Esperance.

There were incredible scenes at the end as the Raja players surrounded Ronaldinho to ask for his shirt and took off his boots.

Mineiro, who had spent six months dreaming of the tournament since they won the Libertadores Cup, slunk disconsolately away, leaving their army of 10,000 fans with a long, painful journey back to Belo Horizonte.

Raja will now face European champions Bayern in Saturday's final in Marrakesh.

It will be only the second time since the tournament has been played in its current format in 2005 that the final has not been between a South American and European team.

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News from Our Neighbours

Tunisia

The ruling Islamist party in Tunisia has agreed to step down, ahead of three weeks of negotiations that begin next week with opposition parties to form an independent caretaker government.

The country has been in turmoil for more than two years, exacerbated by the assassination of leading opposition figure Mohamed Brahmi, who was shot dead in July in front of his family. As a result, dozens of opposition lawmakers quit their attempts to write a new constitution.

Deadly street protests were followed by a suicide bombing on October 31, where a bomber detonated explosives outside a seaside hotel in Sousse, killing only himself. Security guards had prevented him from entering. Another person was caught with explosives in Monastir before they could be detonated. These were the first such attempts in more than a decade.

Algeria

Algerian socialists are calling for an opening of the borders with Morocco.

According to Morocco World News, Ahmed Betatache, the first national secretary of the Socialist Forces Front (FFS), has reiterated the position of his party in favour of reopening of the borders with Morocco.

During his recent participation in a meeting of deputies and heads of socialist parties on both sides of the Mediterranean held in Marrakech, Ahmed Betatache said he deeply regretted the closure of the border between the two neighbours, calling it “nonsense” and “an affront” to the memory of the nationalist leaders who struggled for independence for the Maghreb countries, and aimed to build a “Federal Union Maghreb.”

To see the full story CLICK HERE. 

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Discussion on Opportunities for Fez Youth

Fatima Zahra Senhaji of the Sun Association of Fez participated in the first in the series of discussions

On Tuesday December 17 at 7 pm, the second in a series of public discussions between social and cultural activists, students and citizens of the Fez Medina will be held 

The "Inter-Cultural Cafe" is hosted by the Spirit of Fes Foundation at Dar Tazi in the Fes Medina.
The theme of this event is "Being young in Fez today: what is the outlook and what are the opportunities?"

The first in the series was a lively discussion hosted by Faouzi Skali, between six participants including Fatima Zahra Senhaji of the Sun Association of Fez (pictured above) and Philippe Laleu, director of the French Institute, and attracted an audience of over a hundred people. This event promises to be equally as engaging.

For more information and to get involved contact:
Spirit of Fes Foundation
Sidi Al Khayat - BP 679-30200 FES
Tel. 05 35 74 05 35 / email  - contact@espritdefes.com
www.facebook.com / Fondationespritdefes

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What's in a Name? - Move to Change National Press Agency Name

For years few people took notice of the fact that Morocco's official press agency was called Maghreb Arab Press (MAP) but now it appears that the word "Arab" is no longer politically correct and a member of the government is setting out to make changes that reflect the diverse nature of Moroccan society

El Khalfi:  in the House of Representatives

Communications Minister Mustapha El Khalfi suggested the need for a change while speaking in the House of Representatives during a meeting of the commission on education, culture and communication.

El Khalfi said that a change would be," consistent with the constitution."

The MP  said he was dissatisfied with the existence of the word Arab in the name of the MAP , wanting therefore that this word should be deleted. The word Arabic , according to the MP,  excludes other Moroccan identities as enshrined in the constitution - Amazigh , Andalusian , African and Hebrew . As a result, the MP,  proposed that the Moroccan News Agency be called Morocco Press Agency. We await developments...

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Sneak Preview of New Hammam in the Fez Medina

Today The View from Fez team was given a look inside the new hammam and spa being built just behind Thami's Restaurant in Batha

The view of the dome as work continues

Downstairs is a large hammam while the space upstairs is given over to spa treatments including several rooms for massage, pedicure, hair styling and private bathing.

The work is at full speed at the moment as the owners hope to have everything completed in time for an opening before Christmas.

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Gnawa Music Concert ~ Free at ALIF Riad Tonight

A Gnawa Music Concert at ALIF Riad is free and open to the general public tonight (Tuesday, December 10th) at 6:30 PM

This is a great opportunity to experience this famous Moroccan folk music with a talented group of local musicians: Ouled Houssa.

Gnawa music is a rich repertoire of ancient African Islamic spiritual religious songs and rhythms. Its well preserved heritage combines ritual poetry with traditional music and dancing. The music is performed at 'Lila's', entire communal nights of celebration, dedicated to prayer and healing, guided by the Gnawa Maalem and his group of musicians and dancers. Though many of the influences that formed this music can be traced to sub-Saharan West-Africa, its traditional practice is concentrated in Morocco and the Béchar Province in South-western Algeria.

Tonight's concert is free and open to all ALC & ALIF students and the general public. If you are a visitor to Fez as your Riad manager to give you directions.

Refreshments will be served!

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Long Walk To Freedom - Film at Cafe Clock in Fez

Cafe Clock is marking the death of Nelson Mandela with a special screening this Thursday of  Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom. Admission is free

Film  News @ Cafe Clock 

Th ursday @ 6pm
Né Quelque Part Directed by Mohammed Hamidi with Jamal
Debbouze, Taw k Jallab, Abdelkader Secteur. e movie is in
Darija and French with English subtitles. (free)

Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom Directed by Justin Chadwick
with Idris Elba, Naomie Harris, Terry Pheto. e movie
English with French subtitles. (free)


Gra fitti Art by the urban artist Omar Lula

Gods From India art exhibition in the Redroom
Habibi prints from a graphic noval

Sunday Concert @ 6pm
Issawa Traditional music with percussion(20dh)

Clock Kitchen

Learn to cook traditional Moroccan food in the heart of the
medina with Clock Kitchen.Tour the food markets like a local
before preparing a fantastic feast in our dedicated cooking school.

Calligraphy

Discover the sacred art of Calligraphy with the master,
Mohammed Charkaoui. Private and group lessons by
arrangement. Bamboo quills and papers are provided.

Fez Download

Over a mint tea, Khalid will give you the full lowdown regarding culture,
customs and language ensuring you get fully under the skin of this
unique city.

Jam Session

Every Wednesday from 6pm to 8pm except in Ramadan.
All musicians are welcome.

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The French Institute in Fez Hosts Photography Event

An international photography meeting is being hosted by the French Institute in Fez. The exhibition opening is tomorrow - Friday, December 6, -  6:30 pm in the Gallery Kacimi

For more detailed information (only in French) see the PDF here: French Institute in Fez

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"The Traditional Architecture of the Fez Medina" ~ a Public Lecture

A lecture by Kamal Raftani, an architect who has worked with UNESCO and ADER will be held Thursday, December 5th at 6:15 PM at the ALIF Annex auditorium. This lecture is open to the general public

"The historic fabric of Fes Medina appears today in a quite harmonious state, despite the huge challenges it is facing at different levels: state of the built environment, social and economic problems, etc. This urban fabric is a result of a long process of construction and evolution made of contributions from different dynasties and populations that have settled in Fez. This includes moments of growth and prosperity as well as times of decadence and decline.

At the architectural level, the historic built environment of Fes Medina consists of different types of buildings, most of which are characterized by the high value of their architecture and the role they have been playing for centuries for the Fes Medina community.

There are different ways to approach the traditional architecture of historic cities. In this lecture, we will try to give an overview on the traditional architecture of Fes Medina through three of its main components: (1) monumental architecture, (2) domestic architecture, and (3) religious architecture."

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Shooting in a Hammam ~ A Challenge For Film Crew

Riad Rcif was this week chosen as the location for a film shoot in the Fez Medina. The Japanese film crew working with Production Coordinator, Momoko Nishiyama from Voice Japan, was on a tight schedule, trying to get as much footage shot as is possible in six days

The company is shooting a series of travel films in which popular Japanese actress Miho Kanno visits different countries and explores the cultures.  As Momoko Nishiyama explained,"We have been to many of the African countries but this is our first visit to Morocco and it is absolutely beautiful." 

The episode featuring Morocco will be shown next year on Tokyo TV and BS Japan - a huge audience and exposure which will certainly impact on the number of Japanese tourists visiting the kingdom.

Miho Kanno

On a tight schedule they had been in the South and arrived in Fez yesterday. The 15-strong film crew immediately set to work doing an afternoon and night shoot around the Medina and in Riad Rcif, focusing on some of the beautiful architectural details.

Today it was into the hammam. This was not an easy undertaking because of the small space, issues of water, heat and steam. Then there was the problem of finding local women willing to be filmed in the hammam.

Nora, one of the masseuses at Riad Rcif, teamed up with Rachida from Riad Zany and stepped into the hammam for what was to be a long session. 

Normally a scrub and massage in a hammam is one continuous event. Not so when being filmed. Cameraman, Koru, had an extensive shot list and each individual shot had to be lit with the limited lighting that could be fitted into the space. 

Eventually the shots were completed in around two and a half hours.

Nora and Rachida  - stars for a day

The View from Fez would like to thank Momoko Nishiyama and Riad Rcif for the opportunity to visit during the film shoot. 

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