Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Moroccan News Briefs #133

Ikea's Moroccan saga 
The sorry saga of Ikea opening stores in Morocco is much like assembling their products. You get to the point when you have the item unpacked and discover there is a piece missing. It maybe something small like a screw or a small wooden plug - but without it things are screwed up

Putting the Ikea Morocco deal together looked like a good thing...

However, the news that Morocco has blocked the opening of the first Ikea store in Moroccan is reported to be because of a "missing piece" - to be more precise, Ikea was told it lacked a necessary permit.

Under normal circumstances Ikea’s project of opening five stores in Morocco would be seen as a huge investment plus for the country. What transpired, however, is that far away in Scandinavia, the Swedish parliament did something both unwelcome and unexpected by announcing that it was on the verge of recognising a self-proclaimed republic that was made in Algeria -the so-called Sahrawi Republic (SADR).

This should not come as a surprise to Morocco: the Swedish parliament voted to recognise the breakaway Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic in 2011, but the Swedish government at the time rejected the motion.

The Swedish Foreign Ministry said at the time: “Sweden traditionally has a position regarding the recognition of new countries. There has to be independence, integration, and autonomy. The territory must be controlled by the government, and the population must be under its control, too.”

How did Morocco get into this position?

According to Majid Morceli, writing for Morocco World News, none of these conditions are satisfied, and yet the current Swedish parliament does not seem very interested in whether or not the conditions for recognising a ghost republic are met or not. "The reason is very simple: the enemies of Moroccan territorial integrity, with the unwavering support of Algeria, are fully committed to their cause, while Moroccan decision makers are reactionary and only react once the damage has already been done."

Morocco relies more on paid lobbyists and on France than on its own people to defend its cause. The civil population in and outside Morocco fights for the Palestinian issue, but does not fight for the so-called Western Sahara, which is neglected by every day Moroccans.

Morceli points out that the Moroccan authorities have no one to blame but themselves. Their diplomatic absence in Europe’s northern countries has left a vacuum that Morocco’s enemies are happy and ready to fill. Placing ambassadors in these countries is not sufficient to counter the schemes of those who want to divide Morocco.

Europe’s northern region has always been sympathetic to the separatist cause, and Morocco’s absence from the diplomatic scene in Sweden made it a fertile ground for those critical of Morocco.

Very few Swedes live in Morocco, yet Sweden has six diplomatic posts in Morocco. These are the Embassy in Rabat and consulates in Agadir, Casablanca, Marrakech, Oujda, and Tangier.

There are about 20,000 Moroccans living in Sweden, 15,000 in Norway, and another 15,000 in Denmark. Moroccans living abroad are totally disconnected from those who get paid to serve them.

Morocco’s foreign representation in northern Europe could have easily tapped into the Moroccan diaspora living in this region to defend the national cause. Instead, Morocco has not appointed an ambassador to Sweden for over 3 years.

Moroccan party leaders are supposedly preparing to visit Sweden as part of their efforts to convince the Nordic state not to recognise the separatists. Meanwhile the Swedish Foreign Ministry said that the country has not recognised the region as an independent state, but is conducting an internal review of its “Western Sahara policy.”

This could be bad news for Morocco: “reviewing the policy” is just a diplomatic way of saying, “completely revamping the policy.” This could be the start of many bad things to come. Denmark and Norway will most likely follow suit. This could have a lasting effect on any future negotiations between Morocco and the Polisario.


The strangest part of this saga (soap opera) is that blocking the opening of Ikea’s first store in Morocco is simply ill thought out and amateurish on the part of Morocco. This action will have no consequences in Sweden. Ikea was built by a joint venture, including the Dubai-based Al-Futtaim Group, Moroccan supermarket chain Marjane Holding, and Portuguese company Sonae Sierra. Cancelling the opening of the Ikea store gave more publicity to the rebels than anyone else.

We have many countries that are steadfast supporters of the separatists, and they are flourishing doing business in Morocco. South Africa and Nigeria come to mind. The Moroccan government is even handing out scholarship to Nigerians studying in Morocco.

Until the Moroccan authorities start becoming proactive and make the sacred cause actually sacred, there will be many setbacks, and one day, neither France nor the lobbyists will be able to come to our rescue.

So in the end, like the Ikea products, we have a screw or two missing in the saga - but are they made in Sweden, or Morocco?


A free health centre for refugees in Casablanca

While all the attention is on the plight of Syrian refugees in Europe, Morocco has been quietly showing its compassionate side. The number of Syrians in the Kingdom is estimated to be around 5000, of whom 1763 were registered by the UNHCR in August this year.

Unfortunately social and financial support of the refugees is lacking in many areas. Now, a Moroccan surgeon, Zouhair Lahna, is to launch a health centre in Casablanca for the poorest refugees. Free, services will be offered especially to pregnant women and young children.


Dr Zouhair Lahna, a surgical gynaecologist who spent several months of humanitarian mission in Syria, explains the reasons for the project called "Injab"

"For a while I was wondering about the feasibility of the establishment of a medical centre to help destitute and uprooted Syrians and sub-Saharan Africans who one sees every day in front of mosques and at major road junctions with children on their backs," he says on his Facebook page. "These women are asking for help,"laments the doctor. Dr. Zouhair Lahna says that the clinic would also provide free health care to needy Moroccans.


With the help of many local people, Dr. Zouhair Lahna has decided to open the centre in the district of Farah Salam Oulfa, on the outskirts of Casablanca. It is a neighbourhood known to house many sub-Saharan African and Syrian refugees and poor Moroccans.

Backed by a group of NGOs, the centre will offer preventive and curative medical care to people in need. The team will include a gynaecologist, two general practitioners, a midwife, a social worker and an administrative assistant.

The centre has formed partnerships with several clinics and hospitals and will perform surgical procedures at lower cost, says the NGO Yalla Morocco, who coordinates the project.

Financially, the centre will rely on fundraising carried out by the collective of associations partner with donors, governments and international cooperation, says the NGO.

You can donate or find out more through Yalla Morocco


24 Israelis Rescued

Good luck and a speedy response by local police saved the lives of 24 Israelis who found themselves trapped by a rockslide in the Anti-Atlas.


The travellers from Israel were on their way to a Jewish shrine in a mountain village when the road they were travelling on was swept away by falling boulders and a mudslide caused by the heavy rains on Sunday 27th. The Israelis, some over the age of 70, were visiting Morocco as part of their celebration of the Jewish religious holiday of Yom Kippur.

According to reports carried in the Israeli media none of the visitors were injured. However, they did find the experience frightening. "It was scary, and everyone started to cry, pray and cry out for help."

Thanks to the efficiency of the police they were able to safely return to their hotel in Marrakech

Morocco's Airports Show Increased Traffic

In August this year the Morocco's airports recorded 1.9 million passengers, an average annual increase of 6.3%.


This growth was particularly strong for Fez airport which had growth of 17.7% According to the National Office of Airports (ONDA) other airports have fared well with Tangier (12.6%), Essaouira (26.2%) and Al Hoceima (19.5%).

The Mohammed V airport in Casablanca welcomed 938,228 passengers, up 2.1% compared to August last year, a development that adds to that recorded a month earlier (21.4% in July 2015).

The daily attendance record was reached at Mohammed V airport on Sunday 2 August with 33,260 passengers.  In the months of July and August 2015, traffic in Morocco's airports totalled nearly 3, 5 million passengers, a new record this time of year.

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Sunday, September 27, 2015

Total Lunar Eclipse Visible in Fez


Early Monday morning a total lunar eclipse will be fully visible in Fez.  The total lunar eclipse is sometimes called a blood moon, as the moon turns red. What should make this eclipse spectacular is that the moon is at the nearest point to earth for this year

Phases and local times of this eclipse in Morocco

Start of the partial eclipse will be around 02:07
The maximum eclipse will be around 03:47
The end of the partial eclipse will be at 05:27

The total time of the eclipse is 5 hours and 11 minutes.

Earlier tonight  - and the forecast is for clear skies and good visibility

UPDATE:  Sadly the sky in Fez clouded over and although The View From Fez team were up to watch the eclipse - there was nothing to see.

The eclipse as seen from the UK


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Positive Reception to Jardin des Biehn Exhibition Opening


Yesterday Jardin des Biehn held the opening a new exhibition of twelve Azrou Boucharwads created by young French artists and made by a group of women artisans in Azrou


The exhibition included the initial drawings, the suggested swatch colours and the final creation.

Ideal for use as wall hangings, the exhibits were mainly in soft, muted tones and drew positive comments from the opening evening crowd. The only criticism was a general feeling that the wall hangings would have been even more stunning if they had been larger.


The small gallery was crowded with both locals and visitors to Fez. They were treated to some fine finger-food and interesting fruit cocktails.


The four artists from Paris were extremely happy with the reception to their work and spent time chatting with guests and posing for photographs.

The French designers were happy with the reaction to their works

The exhibition is open at Jardin des Biehn until October the 8th.  It is well worth a visit.

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Friday, September 25, 2015

Exhibition Opening ~ Jardin des Biehn


Morocco meets France - Tomorrow, Saturday the 26th, Jardin des Biehn is opening a new exhibition of twelve Azrou Boucharwads created by three young French artists


Jardin des Biehn will be offering cocktails at 6pm and everyone is invited. A chance to catch up and to purchase carpets perfect for wall hangings.

Paris - Azrou


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Thursday, September 24, 2015

Celebrating Eid in Morocco

Across Morocco Eid al-Adha was celebrated in towns, cities and remote mountain villages. It was a day of tradition, family gatherings and much fine food

In Fez, the day of the Sacrifice dawned clear and cool. Around the gates to the Medina the last sheep were hurriedly delivered. Then silence. The streets were deserted, with everyone at home preparing for the moment when their sheep or goat was to be sacrificed.


After ten in the morning the sheep also fell silent and the smell of charcoal smoke wafted on the air. Down in the streets groups of young boys built temporary barbecue fires under old bed bases.

Not the image some tourists were expecting

A group of newly arrived tourists wandered through the streets, wondering what they had walked into. Their bemusement at the sight of the sheep heads being cooked and the quickly growing piles of sheep skins, showed clearly that these were not the images they had seen in the glossy tourist brochures.

Stomach lining is hung to dry (top) and then used to wrap pieces of fresh liver

Once prayers were said and the sheep slaughtered, the smell of cooking became as all pervasive as the cloud of cooking smoke cloaking the Medina.

Most families cook inside on their floor - with charcoal smoke everywhere!

In home across the city, usually on the floor or in the stairwell, the charcoal was glowing and the first pieces of heart or liver were being cooked.  The same ritual was being played out across the city and the excitement and pleasure was evident from the calling and laughter across roof tops.

Eid Mubarak

And out in the countryside Rose Button reports from Moulay Idriss

Moulay Idriss Zerhoune is a Holy City where Islam was first introduced to Morocco. And being an agricultural town it is no surprise that Eid al Adha is a bustling time of year here.


The sheep souk started this Saturday and each night I could hear more and more sheep bleating in my neighbouring houses. Yesterday was the last day of the market and by 9am it was packed with locals choosing their Eid sheep from local shepherds.

Everyone wants a bargain

Everyone selects something different depending on the size of the family. They may choose a goat or the largest healthiest sheep they can find.

I sit myself in a coffee shop with a mint tea and watch the details of the selection process, and it is a serious business. Sheep trucks are stopped as people want the best selection first, checking the health of the animal by looking at teeth and feeling the muscle. They move on and come back again for more discussions and debates over price and quality.

I have met shepherds with their flocks while walking on the mountains and know they have been treated well.


Once selected it is critical to get the selected sheep home. The easiest, and for me the most hilarious, way is on donkey and I witness sheep placed in the basket on each side of the donkey then another over the top. Others walk the sheep, carry the smaller one's on their shoulders. Some are so stubborn they are not going anywhere. I laugh a lot at the spectacle and enjoy everyone's joy and delight celebrating Eid.


Eid mubarak said
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Eid Mubarak !

The View From Fez wishes all our readers and friends a very happy and peaceful Eid





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Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Football Fireworks in Fez


Loud explosions over the Medina of Fez last night caused concern for some and delight for others. No it was not an "incident",  but rather a fireworks display

Immediately theories abounded as to why fireworks. Was it to do with the Eid Holiday? The Hajj? Or some splashing out by the new Mayor?


The answer was a touch more mundane (unless you are a football fanatic). Maghreb Fez vs RCA Casablanca 1-1 with Fez eliminating RCA Casa on penalties (4-2)


Maghreb Association Sportive de Fez (Arabic: المغرب الفاسي‎) is a football club based in Fez. The club was founded in 1946.

Thanks to Annan from Thai Restaurant Moi Annan for the photographs.

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Free Films in Fez


Café Clock and the French Institute in Fez are both offering free movies this week

The French Institute in Fez are screening A Screaming Man on Wednesday, September 30, at 19h, in the funky old Cinema Boujloud - entry is free.

A Screaming Man (French: Un homme qui crie) is a 2010 French-Chadian drama film by Mahamat Saleh Haroun, starring Youssouf Djaoro and Diouc Koma. It revolves around the current civil war in Chad, and tells the story of a man who sends his son to war in order to regain his position at an upscale hotel. Themes of fatherhood and the culture of war are explored.


Principal photography took place on location in N'Djamena and Abéché. The film won the Jury Prize at the 2010 Cannes Film Festival.


Cafe Clock is showing two movies on Saturday. Milh Hadha al-Bahr (The Salt of this Sea) directed by Annemarie Jacir with Suheir Hammad, Saleh Bakri, Riyad Ideis. Th e movie is in Darija with French subtitles.


The second movie is The Illusionist Directed by Neil Burger with Edward Norton, Jessica Biel, Paul Giamatti . Th e movie is in English with French subtitles.

Both movies are free First screening is at 6pm


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Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Moroccan Photo of the Day - Rose Button

The photograph was taken by Rose Button who has embarked on a marvellous project to enhance the health of the donkey population of Moulay Idriss

(Click image to enlarge)

Returning from a morning walk in Moulay Idriss Rose Button came across this donkey, owned by Safi Ali, who is a regular at the Dar Zerhoune donkey day. Each month they fund veterinary care of the donkeys of Moulay Idriss and so far have more than seventy-one donkeys treated. The next donkey day is 11 October.

 More information can be found on www.darzerhoune.com or www.facebook.com/darzerhoune

See more of our Photo of the Day series here: Moroccan Photo of the Day

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Monday, September 21, 2015

Moroccan Daylight Saving Ends - 25th October


25 Oct 2015 - Daylight Saving Time Ends



Sunday, 25 October 2015, when local daylight time is about to reach 03:00:00 clocks are turned backward 1 hour to 02:00:00 local standard time



An amusing incident that highlights local confusion occurred this morning when a teacher at the American Language Center in Fez turned up an hour late and blamed daylight saving having ended. However, as his brighter students pointed out, if it had been the end of daylight saving, he should have arrived an hour earlier!


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Sunday, September 20, 2015

Moroccan Photo of the Day ~ Eid Sheep Souk in Taza


Photographer Suzanna Clarke visited the sheep souk in Taza where the business of find the right sheep for Eid was everyone's top priority


Click images to enlarge

See more of our Photo of the Day series here: Moroccan Photo of the Day

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