From Scotland to the Sahara ~ By Bicycle

When Paul Armstrong found himself unable to fly, he decided to cycle instead – all the way from Scotland to the Sahara. Vanessa Bonnin reports

Paul Armstrong in the Ruined Garden Café  in Fez - Photo Vanessa Bonnin

Armstrong, 27, from Alloway in Scotland, is a pilot with the Royal Navy who is equally passionate about cycling as he is flying. In January his entire fleet was grounded after two aircraft crashes and instead of taking off to Thailand with the rest of his squadron he decided to cycle to Morocco.

“I’ve ridden since I was a little kid, bikes are my thing,” Armstrong (no relation to Lance) said. “In the past I’ve done short tours like London to Amsterdam in two days, to the Alps and back, classic Tour de France climbs, that sort of thing, but this time I wanted to do a big tour. I had visited the north of Morocco 15 years ago with my parents but I wanted to see the real Morocco and go to the Sahara.”

But before he could search for “the real Morocco” he had to cycle all the way through Scotland, England, Belgium, France and Spain. On his Spin road bike, with a handmade titanium frame, he took in a few mountain ranges on the way including the Pyrenees, the Sierra Nevada and the Sierra de Grazalema.

“I left Scotland in mid-January, and for the first few weeks I was miserable because of the cold,” he said. “I could only take minimal kit on the bike and my SLR camera was my only luxury. Then from Malaga all the way to Larache there were horrendous headwinds, I was only doing an average of nine miles an hour, compared to my normal rate of 18 miles an hour. There was really heavy rain and I was having a miserable time!I also stacked it in Tangier only two miles from the ferry because they seemed to be digging up every road in Tangier at the time and the roads were covered in mud slicks.”

Despite thinking of his squadron in sunny Thailand, Armstrong persevered taking a route down through Morocco that went from Tangier to Larache (where he spent his 27th birthday), Rabat, Casablanca, Safi, Essaouria, Agadir, Tiznit and finally Tan Tan.

“Tan Tan was my most southerly destination but it was about the whole journey for me, not just the destination of the desert, although I really did want to see the sand dunes,” he said. “I baked even though I was using 50+ sunscreen! But it was phenomenal to see. What I was I most happy about was I’d been cycling into a head wind since Tangier – for over 1000kms – and it was pretty soul destroying. So turning around and having a tail wind was fantastic!”

Despite reaching the desert, his journey was far from over and the highlights of his adventure were yet to come.

“After Tan Tan I cycled back to Tiznit and then went inland over the Anti-Atlas to Tafraout,” he said. “These were Alpine-style climbs, really arduous averaging 8-9% inclines over 20 miles and the sun was blisteringly hot, climbing all the way to 2500m. But it was worth it, Tafraout and the whole area was spectacular, indescribable really.”

Armstrong then went from Taroudant to Marrakech, via the Tizi N’Test pass, a route that has been described as the most spectacular in Morocco, reaching a high point of 2092m above sea level.

“I was quite apprehensive about climbing the Tizi N’Test Pass which wasn’t helped by stopping and meeting a Moroccan cyclist working as a waiter at the bottom who said ‘there’s no way you’ll make it in one day’”, he said. "Undeterred however I set off and got to a sign at the start of the climb that said Tizi N’Test 36kms. There was a 7-8% gradient for the entire climb but I did it in 3.5 hours with 6 litres of water and 1.5 litres of Coca-Cola!

"That was my achievement moment, getting to the top of the Tizi N’Test Pass. There’s phenomenal scenery up there and then I set off on the descent into the sunset which was magic.”

After two days well-earned rest in Marrakech, Armstrong continued his Morocco tour through Beni Mellal, Khenifra, Azrou, Meknes and finally Fes, where we meet him – arriving for brunch at the Ruined Garden Café with a helpful local called Youssef.

“My whole experience of Morocco has been that the people are so friendly - Youssef is a good example of that friendliness,” he said. "I’ve almost come to expect it here. Bumping into people and getting chatting. The kids especially, all the kids run after you down the road, waving and holding out their hands to shake. It’s great, puts a smile on your face. With the bike you get to experience the country and the people in a way you wouldn’t in a car or campervan or on a motorbike.”

So what was the highlight of experiencing Morocco by bike?

“The best moment was when I was riding from Azrou to Meknes, I was riding through a 2000m pass in hailstones and strong winds,” he said “I had this car behind me, beeping and beeping, then they pulled alongside me and handed over some chocolate bars! It put a big smile on my face – I was soaked to the skin but that gesture really kept me going.”

And what does this intrepid explorer think of our beloved city, Fes?

“I love Fes, it’s a warren, you walk down side streets and discover new things, it’s one big adventure. I love the sense of discovery. And the tanneries are something else – they didn’t smell as bad as I thought they would!” he said.

Despite the hardships on this journey – his longest by bike so far – Armstrong is determined to try more cycling adventures in the future.

“Oh definitely, to ride in a different culture is amazing and to get to visit the country as well is a fantastic combination.”

Armstrong travelled on from Fes to Chefchaouen, Al Hoceima, Tangier and Malaga before flying home with a slightly heavier load that included the essential Fes purchases – a Moroccan, rug and a leather jacket!


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Morocco's Great Bicycle Adventure - April 28, 2013

The first of its kind in Morocco, the Marrakech Atlas Etape on 28th April has been gaining a lot of interest in the UK. The availability of inexpensive flights and low entry fee of only 60 Euros for the event many UK participants who want a challenge are being tempted by this unique event.

A huge attraction for participants is the breathtaking scenery, with some opting to take a few days before or after the event to make the journey truly memorable. There are two routes on offer of 140km and 60km so most abilities are catered for.

The Atlas Mountains that loom over the city of Marrakech contain the killer climb that forms an integral part of the Atlas Etape up to the ski station at Oukaïmeden. The ‘OUKA Monster’ as it is affectionately known begins gently after 29km from the start of the course, which comprises of a gently rise of about 1.5% up from Marrakech (The 60Km route turns around here). From here at 895m the climb begins, rising through the Ourika valley for 11km until the route branches and the main climb begins at 975m. The ski station is a further 30km, which rises through 1649m in altitude to the maximum height of 2624m. At the ski station the route drops back down all the way to Marrakech, giving you the opportunity to relish the climbing you’ve just undertaken.

The raise in altitude of 2129m over the course eclipses all the top road climbs used in the Tour de France or any professional road cycling race throughout Europe, the nickname “OUKA Monster” seems appropriate. The shorter 60km route has 365m of altitude gain and is more suited to those who prefer a more modest day in the saddle. There is not an aggressive broom wagon so participants can feel at ease riding as fast or as slow as they please.

The organiser Mike McHugo is working very closely with the Moroccan Government and an established events company to provide a safe and comfortable environment for participants. McHugo has lead bicycle tours across the country numerous times and has been involved with the country for over 30 years, he said of the event: “With cycling coming of age in Morocco, and with Marrakech to Oukaïmeden as a classic ascent to rank with any of the classic climbs in the Tour de France, I believe the time for a classic cyclosportive in Morocco has arrived.”

Funds raised will go towards the charity Education For All to which McHugo is one of the founders; they provide education for young girls in the Atlas Mountains since 2007. The intention is that the event could help to generate income for less fortunate members of the local community as well as the wider tourism benefit of such a European style Cyclosportive event.

For more information and for entry visit: http://www.marrakech-atlas-etape.com/

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Cycle Tour of Morocco Sets Off

The 25th edition of the Tour of Morocco organised by the Royal Moroccan Federation of cycling started today.

The race will run until to April 1 and will include ten stages before the finish line in Casablanca. The race will feature 132 athletes from 22 teams from France, United Kingdom, Greece, Netherlands, Turkey, Germany, Latvia, Slovakia, Belgium, United Arab Emirates, Libya, Algeria, Tunisia, Eritrea, South Africa, Rwanda, United States, Argentina, Japan and Morocco with four teams. It will run over 1554 km through 6 regions. Note that this Tour will help organize humanitarian actions giving 200 bicycles to school children.


Tour of Morocco stages

(25 March): El Jadida - Safi (156 km)

(26 March): Safi - Essaouira (130 km)

(27 March): Essaouira - Agadir (170 km)

(28 March): Ouled Berhil - Marrakech (170 km)

(29 March): Marrakech - Ouarzazate (190 km)

(30 March): Ouarzazate - Tinghir (168 km)

(31 March): Imilchil - Béni Mellal (150 km)

(1 April): Béni Mellal - Azilal (120 km)

(2 April): Azilal - Khouribga (150 km)

(3 April): Khouribga - Casablanca (140 km)

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A Day Without Cars in Marrakech

It may be difficult to imagine Marrakech becoming as famous a bike city as Copenhagen or Amsterdam, but that’s the aim of Mike McHugo, one of the organisers of ‘A Day Without Cars’, a ten kilometre bike ride around the Red City, which will be held on April 1^st – and he insists it’s not an April Fool’s joke!

It may be difficult to imagine Marrakech becoming as famous a bike city as Copenhagen or Amsterdam, but that’s the aim of Mike McHugo, one of the organisers of ‘A Day Without Cars’, a ten kilometre bike ride around the Red City, which will be held on April 1st – and he insists it’s not an April Fool’s joke!

“Marrakech is completely flat and we’ve got wonderful weather; what more could a cyclist want?’ he said, and while he admitted with a smile that some bike owners are nervous about the hectic driving in the city, on this occasion they will have police escorts for complete safety.

“It would be great to think that people would come here for holidays and see it as a cycling destination, but this particular day is mainly to get people who live in Marrakech out on their bikes for a bit of fun and exercise, although it would be fantastic for people visiting the city to join in and see a side of it they wouldn’t normally see.”

Any old bike will do, but Argan Xtreme Sports, a specialist bike hire and sales shop that opened recently in Marrakech, will be lending sixty of their bikes to riders who have no bike of their own. As well as cycling being great exercise, Saif Kovach, owner of Argan Extreme Sports also sees the Day Without Cars as a way of publicising pollution problems in the city.

“We can’t ignore the fact that pollution from cars is a major problem worldwide, and the more we can get people using bikes on a regular basis the better it will be for everyone. A couple of hundred people making a ten kilometre bike ride may not seem much, but it’s a beginning, and the more people see others on bikes the more they use bikes themselves, which over times raises awareness with local authorities, who begin to provide services for cyclists. It’s slow going, but it’s a start.”

McHugo in one of the organisers of the Education For All annual fundraising bike ride, which starts on the last day of March each year, and this year his group of riders will be seen in their cycle kit in the colours of the Moroccan flag on the Day Without Cars bike ride, before they set off for the tough tracks of the High Atlas Mountains.

“We’re going to bring a group of girls into the city from one of the boarding houses so they can join us on the ride. It will be a wonderful day out for them, and help us publicise the work of Education For All.”


The Day Without Cars bike ride takes place 09.30 on Sunday 1 April, beginning at Place 16 Novebre, Guéliz, Marrakech. More information HERE. Contact Argan ExtremeSports to enquire about borrowing a bike for the event.
To find out more about Education For All and the fundraising bike ride in the High Atlas Mountains that begins on 29th March, visit the EFA website.

The 25th "Tour Morocco" Cycle Race Starts in March

The schedule and programme of the 25th edition of the Tour of Morocco were revealed today by the Royal Moroccan Federation of cycling.

The race will run from March 23 to April 1 and will include ten stages with a departure in Tangier and the finish line in Casablanca.

 The total course is 1507 km. Teams representing about fifteen countries are expected to take part.


The Ten Stages

Tangier-Chaouen (160 km); Ouezzane - Fez (138 kg); Fez - Taza (120 km); Guercif-Oujda (158 km) Missouri - Midelt (184 km); Midelt - Errachidia (126 km); Errachodioa - Tinghir (174 km); Tinghir - Ouerzazate (137 km); Ouerzazate - Marrakech (190 km); Setta - Casablanca (120 km).

The  190 kilometre stage between Ourzazate and Marrakech is expected to be the most exciting stage with huge climbs and very steep descents.

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High, Ride and Handsome – by bike in the High Atlas Mountains

Derek Workman had a vague plan that one day he’d take a long bike-ride through Morocco, but somehow never got around to doing it. Until, that is, he heard about the bike ride that takes place at the end of March every year in the High Atlas Mountains to raise funds for Education For All, a Moroccan-based charity that builds boarding houses for girls from the poorest of families from remote mountain villages to help them continue their education. He wrote a diary about the six-day ride, from which this excerpt is taken.

Day 1 – A gentle Sunday jaunt

It’s just after nine on a glorious Sunday morning as we set off for our first bike ride into the mountains, a blue sky hazy in the distance. Six of us, with Ahmed the driver, take the road from Marrakech, turning off after almost thirty kilometers to begin our rise into the lower slopes of the High Atlas Mountains; a group of chaps of a certain age, all tucked, in one degree of decency or another, into a set of slinky cycle kit, but all proudly wearing the Education For All red, white and black shirt, with its Moroccan star and Arab calligraphy written across our chest.

The road climbs upward to Moulay Brahim, a scattered village on a limestone plateau, where we unload our bikes. This is our first day, so it’s meant to be reasonably easy, just to warm us up.
We set off, and the upland plain dips and rises, but without any extremes. I’m cautious at first, but an hour into the ride I’m whizzing down a – fortunately – minor slope and I’m too busy looking at the view to notice a pot hole that suddenly appears below my wheel. I clip the edge, which throws me into the rough ground at the side of the road, and the wheels skid from under me. I skitter down the road and slide to a stop with nothing worse than a grazed palm and twisted wrist.

The countryside passes lethargically; men of all ages, from early school age to wrinkled, wizen-faced ancients, tend small flocks of sheep and goats, slowly chomping through the scrub. Heads appear at darkened doorways to silently watch these peculiar men in their figure-hugging shorts, brightly decorated shirts and strange hats ride through their village. Almost everyone we come across offers a “Bonjour. Ca va?”, or “Bon courage”, and a wave. Some of the braver young boys stick out their hand for a high-five and laugh as they do it.

I climb slowly from a village of no more than a couple of houses and the ubiquitous shed-cum-café selling Coca Cola and technicolour Fanta. In the distance I see an old man wearing a straw hat with an enormous brim and a long faded grey jacket, apparently picking at a tall spiky bush. I ride closer and realize that below the spiky foliage are the legs of a donkey, hidden in the shadow of an enormous load of eucalyptus branches. As I pass I see the donkey’s head sticking out the front, staring vacantly at the ground as more kindling is piled high on its back.

We arrive at Lalla Takeroust, a small town bustling with the weekly market, beside an artificial lake where we’re to have lunch – and I’m ready for it! The slow drag up a rough track from the main road is about all I can manage, but when we arrive we find rich Moroccan rugs and gold embroidered cushions set out under a shade tree. Brahim has been there for a couple of hours cooking lunch, and serves us freshly cooked pasta with meatballs and an enormous salad. As we kick off our shoes Ahmed brings over an ornate metal kettle and dish, and pours warm water over our hands, handing us a soft white towel on which to dry them. A small dish of biscuits and a gleaming pot of mint tea is set on the table to refresh us as the final preparations for lunch are made.

We eat like sultans, and when the freshly-brewed coffee is drunk and the plates cleared away, we stretch out on the rugs for a siesta. Andy and Gareth make the most of the shade provided by the table cloth, and lie with their heads under the table. I tilt the brim of my cap over my eyes, move a couple of stones to settle my back, and drift into a siesta.

When we leave the picnic spot, a short ride takes us away from the lake and the bustle of market day in Lalla Takeroust. For a couple of kilometers I leisurely peddle past a continuous wall of deep red adobe, interspaced with battered, ancient plank doors. Behind the walls, clusters of white almond blossom mix with the grey-green of olive trees. Occasional stands of eucalyptus cast dappled shadows over that road as I gently and contentedly keep turning the pedals.

A couple of hours later we drop down to a junction with the main road into Marrakech. Mike McHugo’s cyclometer clicks over to fifty-four kilometers of mountain climbs, long plateau and high speed downhill whizzing, four kilometers short of my best ever daily ride. So I decide to better it. I ask Mike to signal me at 60km, where I’ll dismount and wait for the cavalry to ride me into town.

The sixty wave goes up just as we hit the fifteen kilometer marker. It’s not that much further to go really, is it? Just do couple of more kilometers. Fourteen becomes twelve. Let’s call it a day at ten.

By 10km the scratches on the palm and the twisted wrist from my tumble earlier make gripping the handlebars and changing gear painful. At eight the buttocks in their padded shorts scream at every bump and pothole, so I straighten my legs to peddle, which creates a swaying movement on my forward motion and puts pressure on my aching arthritic knee. Approaching six kilometers my knees are burning and my mouth is so dry I feel as if my tongue is packing it with cotton wool.

Andy and Gareth, who I haven’t seen much in the last half-hour are waiting for tail-end-Charlie so we can go in together. The back-up van arrives; this is the deciding moment. There will be other days when I can take the easy way out, but this is the first day and a personal record. Six kilometers is only a return ride to the beach from my home in the centre of Valencia, and I’ve done that hundreds of times. I sit my burning backside onto the saddle, my feet onto the peddles, and push off.

We enter the suburbs and pretty soon all I can see of Gareth and Andy are the white strips on the top of their shirts, although I get an occasional glimpse of Andy as he raises himself up off his saddle to ease his aching backside.

We arrive at an enormous traffic jam, the first I’ve ever seen that has camels in it, and I see the others disappear into the distance. I’m complete lost. Suddenly I hear a horn blaring behind me and painfully turn around to see Brahim frantically gesturing to the right. I let him pass, and like an ailing chicken I follow mother hen home. Mike’s fancy little meter tells me that I’ve ridden 77.82 kilometres. That’s almost 78! In fact, we can practically call it eighty!

I’m exhausted and aching…but elated!

You can read the full diary of the Education For All bike ride HERE. If you would like to know more about the ride in 2012 you can learn all about it at Education For All.

Derek Workman is an English journalist living in Valencia City, Spain – although he admits to a love of Morocco and would love to up sticks and move here. To read more about life in Spain visit www.derekworkman-journalist.com , and Spain Uncovered.  Articles and books can also be found at Digital Paparazzi

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Mount Zalagh - overlooking and overlooked?

Jebel (Mount) Zalagh is the mountain that looks down on Fez. If you are a regular visitor to Fez, or if you live here, you will be aware of the mountain. But few visitors or locals, make the effort to do an excursion to the top. The mountain not only provides spectacular views night and day and is also a cool escape from the heat during the summer months. It is a superb location for a picnic.

The view at night is stunning (photo; Sandy McCutcheon)

For the more adventurous it is also a fantastic place for mountain biking (see our story here - cycling in Fez).

To give you a sense of the views, here are some photographs by our colleague Gérard Chemit.

Click on images to enlarge

Extreme sports event in Morocco

Morocco's first Djebelya Grand Raid is an extreme endurance test. Competitors have 200 hours to cover 2500km throughout Morocco, over four weeks, from 28 June to 28 July. Events include a 120km kayak across the Atlantic from the Canary Islands to Tarfaya in southern Morocco, 2100km of mountain biking, a 40km desert trek, 150km on horseback, a 20km swim and an optional mountain climb.

Billed as 'from one sea to the other' the Djebelya Grand Raid will end at Cabo Negro on the Mediterranean, not far from Tangier after traversing the High Atlas mountains and the Sahara. The project was initiated by Mounir Essayegh, a natural sports aficionado, and Arnaud Mollaret, a horse riding teacher in Casablanca. So for a month, this competition which aims to lead the raiders from a sea to another, using only natural sports (ie no polluting, motorised vehicles), will cross more than 13 provinces in 24 stages. Presented as a "race against oneself" which stresses endurance, the objective of the raid is also to promote citizen tourism through natural sports. It highlights the natural and cultural riches of Morocco, emphasising green tourism and our social and environmental responsibility. Children in rural schools along the way will benefit through the NGO Amis des Ecoles.

If you're feeling energetic, find out more at www.djebelya.com.

Route for Moroccan Cycle Tour

We recently published a story (see here) about the upcoming cycle tour of Morocco. Here is the updated info.

On Friday 25 March, the 132 athletes from 22 teams attending the 24th Tour of Morocco organized by the Moroccan Cycling Federation will run 1554 km through 6 regions. Note that this Tour will help organize humanitarian actions giving 200 bicycles to school children.

Schedule of the Tour :

Step 1 (25 March): El Jadida - Safi (156 km)
Step 2 (26 March): Safi - Essaouira (130 km)
Step 3 (27 March): Essaouira - Agadir (170 km)
Step 4 (28 March): Ouled Berhil - Marrakech (170 km)
Step 5 (29 March): Marrakech - Ouarzazate (190 km)
Step 6 (30 March): Ouarzazate - Tinghir (168 km)
Step 7 (31 March): Imilchil - Béni Mellal (150 km)
Step 8 (1 April): Béni Mellal - Azilal (120 km)
Step 9 (2 April) : Azilal - Khouribga (150 km)
Step 10 (3 April) : Khouribga - Casablanca (140 km)

CYCLING IN FEZ

If you are a regular visitor to Fez, or maybe you live there, you will be aware of the mountains that provide such a gorgeous backdrop to the Medina. But as you have looked up at Mount Zalagh, have you ever wonder what it’s like up there? Ever thought of finding out?

Now you can. Pierre of Maroc Ecotourisme has imported a range of mountain bikes and ‘hybrids’ (bikes that can be ridden on roads as well as a bit of off-road), and they’re available to hire. As is he. Years of experience in the travel industry and in Morocco means that Pierre is an excellent guide. He not only knows everything about mountain biking, but will point out interesting rocks, plants and trees. He’s has a wealth of information about the area around Fez as well as further afield. And he can fix a puncture, as Patrick Ranger found out. Here is his special report.

Patrick Ranger & Mt Zalagh

“The mountain biking was a highlight of my trip as it really felt as though you could have been anywhere in the world. The farmlands of Mount Zalagh and Mount Tghat were spectacular although badly in need of some rains. I had no idea how big Fez really was and how the King's own farm takes up a huge amount of land...well irrigated land I might add!

The top of Mt Tghat

At times, it felt as though I was cycling around Table Mountain (I’m from Cape Town) as we were in amongst pine trees and big granite rocks. The geography changed all the time and it wasn't ten minutes before you were dodging a sheep or jumping over an olive branch! Some of the climbs were pretty hectic as the ride we did was not for beginners.

Down Mt Tghat

There are several different routes to take so there is something for everyone and Pierre is a good leader. He knows a lot about the landscape, wildlife, history of Fez and the skiing that can be done in the high Atlas. I would recommend getting a bike with front suspension as it does get pretty bumpy, and not cycling in cleats as you do stop a lot and have to put your feet down. Some of the more advanced route is very technical and can present a good challenge.

Tghat Forest

Lunch isn't provided so take a sandwich and some fruit, and plenty of water. It does get pretty hot up there despite the winds and the cloudy sky. Sun cream is also a must as are a good pair of sunglasses with good lenses to protect your eyes from the glare. Apart from that, it's a blast. Some of the downhills are awesome and you can get up to speeds of 60km/h! Just hold on tight!”



Bike hire ranges from Dh130 to Dh180 per day, depending on the bike, and includes a helmet. Normal pedals available if you don’t have cleats. Guide rate for Pierre is Dh250 per day.

www.marocecotourisme.com


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news