High Atlas Autumn - Photo Essay

Spectacular scenery is enhanced by the warm hues of autumn in Morocco's High Atlas mountain region. The View From Fez stayed at the Douar Samra guesthouse in the tiny Amazigh (Berber) village of Tamertert. As well as warm fires and hearty and delicious meals, the views from the terrace were extraordinary. It's an ideal base to explore Toubkal National Park by vehicle, by mule or on foot 

View from Douar Samra guesthouse in Tamertert

Autumn colours fill the valley near Imlil 

A shepherdess tends her small flock

Access to many villages is limited to 4 x 4 vehicle, mule or walkers

Morocco's highest peak, Mt Toubkal

Douar Samra guesthouse in Tamertert offers local hospitality

The main house at Douar Samra is lit only by candles

One of the garden rooms at Douar Samra

Rachida is the house manager and cook Douar Samra guesthouse

To see more information about Dour Samra guesthouse, please CLICK HERE. 

Photographs: Suzanna Clarke

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Change of Ownership for Dar Tassa Eco Lodge

Back in 2009 The View from Fez was fortunate enough to be guests at the wonderful Dar Tassa Eco Lodge located an hour and a half from Marrakech (see our story here). Now we have news that the lodge has been sold to an English tour operator, Specialist Morocco

Dar Tassa, is an eco-friendly mountain lodge tucked away in a superb location on the edge of Toubkal National Park and sleeps a total of 21 people in eight rooms, each furnished in a rustic Berber country style. Rooms are available to rent individually or groups can take over the entire property; ideal for celebrating a special birthday, anniversary, Christmas or New Year.

Dar Tassa has a resident manager, Mohamed Ouarra, who spent much of 2012 looking after the property. Prior to that, he was trained and employed at Riad Africa, also owned by Specialist Morocco and located in central Marrakech in the Medina. Dar Tassa still retains the services of  the highly-skilled, in-house cook, Fatima, who prepares traditional Berber and Moroccan meals.

Nick Anstead, founder of Specialist Morocco says: “Dar Tassa is a wonderful property in a dramatic location. It is completely off the beaten track in a hidden corner of the High Atlas Mountains yet offers superb walking for all levels of ability; from gentle strolls along the valley to more challenging treks from the front door all the way to Mount Toubkal, the highest mountain in North Africa.

“We will be refurbishing some of the rooms and adding a plunge pool and two family suites over the coming months. It is currently a comfortable mountain lodge but we want to put it on a par with our two properties in Marrakech, Riad Africa and Maison Africa, which we consider to be two of the most authentic and best value riads in the Old City. The operating of all three properties will be overseen by British ex-pat Peter Mercer, from our Marrakech office.”

Other facilities at Dar Tassa include a large panoramic terrace surrounded by high peaks with views of the tranquil Azzadene valley and Assif n’Ouissadene river, a Berber tent for afternoon siestas; a traditional Beldi hammam, a lounge and dining room – with open fires for winter evenings, a purpose-built kitchen for cookery classes and even a telescope for star-gazing in the often crystal-clear skies over the mountains.

Activities that can be arranged by Specialist Morocco include private guided day walks (with overnight accommodation for longer High Atlas treks), small group treks, 4x4 discovery tours, buggy adventures, quad and mountain biking.

For those who previously experienced the beauty of Dar Tassa, be aware that prices have climbed somewhat. A three-night ‘Atlas Experience’ costs from £289 pp (based on 4 sharing). This includes three nights’ half-board, private transfers to and from Marrakech, a guided day walk with lunch in Toubkal National Park plus a half-day Berber experience tour.

For further information, visit specialistmorocco.com
All photographs: Sandy McCutcheon 

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Extreme sports event in Morocco

Morocco's first Djebelya Grand Raid is an extreme endurance test. Competitors have 200 hours to cover 2500km throughout Morocco, over four weeks, from 28 June to 28 July. Events include a 120km kayak across the Atlantic from the Canary Islands to Tarfaya in southern Morocco, 2100km of mountain biking, a 40km desert trek, 150km on horseback, a 20km swim and an optional mountain climb.

Billed as 'from one sea to the other' the Djebelya Grand Raid will end at Cabo Negro on the Mediterranean, not far from Tangier after traversing the High Atlas mountains and the Sahara. The project was initiated by Mounir Essayegh, a natural sports aficionado, and Arnaud Mollaret, a horse riding teacher in Casablanca. So for a month, this competition which aims to lead the raiders from a sea to another, using only natural sports (ie no polluting, motorised vehicles), will cross more than 13 provinces in 24 stages. Presented as a "race against oneself" which stresses endurance, the objective of the raid is also to promote citizen tourism through natural sports. It highlights the natural and cultural riches of Morocco, emphasising green tourism and our social and environmental responsibility. Children in rural schools along the way will benefit through the NGO Amis des Ecoles.

If you're feeling energetic, find out more at www.djebelya.com.

Dar Tassa - a Moroccan eco-retreat.

Dar Tassa a wonderful Berber house located in a remarkable situation. Driving from Marrakech (just over an hour), you turn off the highway and begin to ascend a mountain road. Every bend and corner opens up a new vista and for a moment you wonder if it is even possible that there is a refuge in such a magnificently wild environment.

The village of Tassa Ouirgane (click on photos to enlarge)

Another corner and there in front of you is the village of Tassa Ouirgane (1300 m), nestled into the mountainside above a wild river that tumbles from the heights above you. Through the village the road climbs again and then you arrive to where, perched on the mountainside, Dar Tassa awaits you.

Dar Tassa

At the door, Fatima and Hafida greeted The View from Fez with the traditional dates and milk ( and what sweet milk it was!). Dar Tassa literally means "the home of motherly love" in the local Berber language and it is a richly deserved name. From the moment we entered the house we felt not like guests, but members of the family.

Hafida and Fatima

Everywhere you look is photogenic.

From the entrance hall (with Berber slippers provided) through to the lounges and the suites and bedrooms, everything is tastefully decorated and with all anyone could need in order to feel truly at home.

Even hot water bottles for cold nights!

Then, just when you think you have seen everything, we were invited to Dar Tassa's tiled rooftop with an amazing 360 degree panaroma: spanning the snow capped peaks of Toubkal Park, sweeping down to give a bird's eye view on daily life in the sleepy Berber village, and flowing along the verdant riverbank to the distant vistas of the Azzedine Valley. It is breathtaking.

Stunning mountain vistas

Dar Tassa's owners are Andrea and Brahim Barkhouche. Brahim is a native Moroccan who felt compelled to return to his family's ancestral homeland and create a haven where he could share the magic of this mountain eden with its next generation of caretakers. They had taken great care to build the Dar in a respectful, traditional manner, using local materials and employing local craftsmen. What becomes evident is that the environmental ethos of the owners is reflected in everything about the place they have constructed.

What really puts the refuge on the map is its location in the shadow of the Takkerkhort Reserve, a long established sanctuary for the regal Barbary Sheep, endemic to Morocco and protected under the jurisdiction of the Eaux et Forets (Water and Forests Department of the Ministry). On hand are resident experts to guide you into the refuge with binoculars to increase your chances of spotting some members of this magnificent endangered species.

Obviously, walking, cycling, trekking and climbing are among the highlights, but simply resting amdist the tranquility and eating... Did we mention food? Fatima cooks up a storm and her skills mean that you don't simply end up with yet another tagine! The local honey is an absolute must!

The lounge and internal fountain

If you are not feeling too energetic Hafida organises short excursions to interesting places. The View from Fez team took in a local Berber market, visited Anraz, a strangely touching abandoned Jewish village that is carefully preserved for when the former residents return on the 26th of May each year to pay their respects at their Rabbi's tomb.

The Rabbi's tomb in the village of Anraz

Boys at the Berber market

We also had a detailed cooking lesson in the art of traditional Berber bread making.

Lalla Kebira produces fine Berber bread

See the full story on how to make Berber bread ( including a recipe) here: Baking bread the Berber way

We would like to thank Fatima, Hafida and Brahim for their hospitality.

All photographs: Sandy McCutcheon

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Moroccan Desert Trips - a rare experience

…..”And the moon fell on the desert’s silence, and a man’s journey in search of treasure….” “The Alchemist” by Paulo Coelho.

The desert is another dimension, a world apart from what we know and expect. In the expanse of the dunes there are no distractions to appreciating man’s greatest treasure - his own soul. Nothing exists but the undulating sand, the expansive sky, the moon, the stars and silence. Here, there is room for meditation; reflection on the essence of life and the magic within it.

The power of the desert is omnipotent with the sudden rising of the winds, the shifting sands and the constant need to search for life giving water. The desert’s secret touch is about learning our own humility and coming away from this sacred place with each memory and experience etched into our minds, providing us with priceless treasures.

All this majesty is one of the treasures of Morocco. There are a number of options available, but one of the best we have come across is offered by Desert Majesty SARL who offer a superb service and a unique opportunity to experience the desert in all its splendour. At sunset or sunrise with the dawning of a new day, from the heat of midday to the cool of evening, when the colours of the dunes shimmer and reflect inimitable hues or whilst trekking on a camel sharing the rhythms of life of a Saharan nomad; if only for a few days or hours your time will have you savouring the spirit of the desert and understanding why the world’s three great religions of the book stemmed from here. For the single reason that no value may be placed on the desert because man is exposed to its whims.


Desert Majesty SARL are based in Ouarzazate

Contact:

Felicity Greenlaw-Weber
00 212 (0)661 23 56 36

Abdelhadi Slimani
00 212 (0)671 66 04 94

www.desertmajesty.com
info@desertmajesty.com
Hay El Wahda No 1865
Ouarzazate
Morocco

“The essence of life is unpredictable. The greatest joys are experienced at the moment they are least expected….leaving deep longings in the heart….” “Wind, Sand and Stars” Antoine de Saint-Exupery.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Into the Rif - on The View from Fez Photo Journal.

The day The View from Fez received the invitation to make a journey into the mountains near Taza, the sun was shining and the temperature just perfect. It sounded wonderful. However, the next morning when we left from the taxi station at Bab Ftouh, the rain began to sprinkle down. An hour later, as we wove up a mountain pass it began to bucket down. Finally about 90 kilometres from Fez we turned off the main road and went north until we arrived at a tiny village near Beni-Frassen.

It was market day and because of the rain storm the café was packed with farmers and townsfolk who had settled down to watch The Flight of the Phoenix on a huge plasma TV. The irony of watching such a film while being rained on was lost on nobody. Eventually the rain eased enough for us to exit through the back of the café. Here a surprise awaited us. A donkey bus station is probably the best way of describing it - donkeys and mules for hire.

Although the rain was settling in and the temperature dropping, we set out - unfortunately with no idea of just how far we had to walk. A stroll through an olive grove and to a house that had been described as "large", sounded okay. Our companions, Driss, Msefer and Thami were in good spirits... at least for a while.

Once we emerged from the olive grove it became clear that the local mud was something special. It had the unhelpful ability to ball in larger and larger amounts beneath your shoes until you were wobbling on "platform-heels" that weighted several kilos each. Thami's instant response, despite the now biting cold, was to remove his shoes.

A young boy passing on a donkey stopped and watched Thami in amazement. He then continued on his way, but kept glancing back as if to confirm the crazy thing he had seen was actually real.


Thami lasted quite a long time on foot - which is not to say we had made huge progress. Going was slow and the climb getting steeper by the moment. From time to time we would round a corner and a house would come into view, accompanied by the thought that "at last, this must be it" - it was not. Not then and not for several hours.

Even though we were still within site of our departure point, Thami's feet needed a bit of a rest.

Once Thami transferred to a mule and looked considerably happier

You can see more photos and more of the story on The View from Fez Photo Journal



Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Climbing and trekking in Morocco

Mount Toubkal at 4167m is the highest peak in the Moroccan High Atlas Mountains and a magnet for those wanting an extraordinary climbing adventure. Getting information about the climb, the weather conditions and available accommodation and guides in the area has always taken a lot of searching, so we sent our own resident mountaineer, Sandy, to check out the best route to find the information you want.

After struggling through a mass of websites I finally found a couple of places that were packed with information, good advice and some inspiring photographs.

Toubkal Mountain Guides are an outfit with a great reputation in the climbing community. They are a small, independent mountain guiding company whose professional guides are drawn from all over the world. At the present time they employ Irish, English, French, Swiss & Americans.

Most of these guides live year-round in Morocco and have years of combined experience in leading small groups & individuals to some of the most remote and unspoilt areas in this fabulous mountain range.The Toubkal Mountain Guides are headed up by husband and wife team Des and Nathalie Clark.



Des Clark is an (Irish) professional International Mountain Leader and founding director of Wilderplaces Adventure Tours NI Ltd, an Irish company with its offices in the south of Morocco. Outside of the Moroccan High Atlas, he has climbed and guided extensively in the Alps, Pyrenees, Iceland, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina.



NathalieClark is a widely travelled & multi-lingual mother of three children. An experienced French & E.F.L. teacher, she especially enjoys the combination of wilderness travel & diverse ethnic cultures. Nathalie leads a number of cultural village and family adventure trips when not home-schooling! Trying to learn the unwritten Berber language Tashelhayt is just one of her current projects.

What I like about the Toubkal Mountain Guides websites ( they have a blog as well) is the emphasis on safety. Toubkal is not a picnic walk. The minimum time required for a fit individual is 3 to 4 days depending on weather conditions. There are two refuges below Toubkal. One is run by the Club Alpin Francais and the other a private venture called Mouflon. All reports suggest that for comfort, Mouflon is preferable.


Of course Toubkal is only one destination and as the related website NomadicMorocco points out "Both the Western High and Mgoun regions offer superb trekking and mountaineering - "far from the madding crowd"!

Although Ighil Mgoun has the attraction of being over 4000m (it is 4068m), it is far enough away from Marrakech and remote enough from the main valley regions to prevent it being over-run with day-trippers and the like.

The Western High Atlas are even less visited but there are some hidden gems to reward those who venture - Immaradene 3350m and Moulay Ali (also 3350m) being just two.

Incidently, NomadicMorocco is the trading name of Wilderplaces Adventure Tours NI Ltd (a company registered in Northern Ireland) but their office is based in southern Morocco.


Essential info - visit these links.

Toubkal Mountain Guides

Toubkal Mountain Guides Blog ( with weather conditions)

Nomadic Morocco

The View from Fez would like to thank Des Clark for permission to reproduce the photographs in this article.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

SPONSORED TREK TO THE SUMMIT OF JEBEL TOUBKAL

Support Lynn Evans in her quest to raise money for a great Moroccan cause. Lynn explains what she is doing and why....

IN SUPPORT OF THE SOCIAL, CULTURAL, EDUCATIONAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL WORK OF ASSOCIATION FES DHAR EL MEHRAZ

JEBEL TOUBKAL is the highest point in the Atlas mountains and indeed the whole of North Africa at 4,167 metres. It’s a long walk but, on the 29th April I hope to get to the summit of this beautiful and inspiring mountain, not just because it is there but because it seems like the perfect choice when my other objective is to raise money for some very inspiring and extraordinary people – my friends in the Association Fes Dhar El Mehraz.

Its core members founded the Social and Cultural Association in 1999 for the people of the bidonville of Fes Dhar El Mehraz, which houses thousands of families. I had the good fortune and the privilege to meet them in 2001 whilst researching for La Fondation Mohamed VI. I was so inspired by them that I wrote an article about the experience of my visit and its profound effect on me.

The Spirit of Dhar El Mehraz is nothing short of transformative – it transforms lives and creates miracles. In the tiny room which serves as the centre of the association its members create theatre and music with the local children. Plays are rehearsed, costumes created, music practiced, singing voices trained. The standards are impressive and the engagement is total. Several years ago they created a National Festival of Children’s Theatre. Every year children from all over Morocco – from as far away as Agadir –gather at Dhar El Mehraz. For workshops and performances, the exchange of ideas and awards for their work.

Make-up backstage Festival dans la Ville 2006

Other activities of the association include educational courses – from literacy for those who cannot read or write, often the elderly, to extra support for children preparing for exams, from IT to health and food issues. Sports teams are formed, trained and engaged in matches at regional and national levels, work creation projects are master-minded, environmental days are organised to involve the whole community in clearing up and tree-planting.

Above all they instil in the lives of the children such qualities as co-operation, laughter, dignity, engagemement, hope and the recognition of their own potential. Some of the children I’ve seen grow and blossom over the years. I asked one young girl, Sophia, what was the value of the Association to her. She simply said: “a good teacher is life”. She plans to become a teacher.

But what is really miraculous is that they have done all of this with virtually no money – just enormous amounts of energy and very big hearts. The Spirit of Fes Dhar El Mehraz is the magic that transforms .

It will perhaps be a small miracle if I get to the top of Toubkal. I’ve never « done » a mountain before but I’m training hard, well it feels quite hard. A couple of peaks in Snowdon over Easter were my first taste of the mixture of exhaustion and exhiliration – and the pain that follows. And that was just 994 metres – a mere molehill in comparison to the snow-peaked Toubkal. But it too will be appropriately magical.

Amongst the new projects born of the association is the creation of an Academy of Music and Performing Arts. It will be there to teach talented musicians, with free classes for poorer students. It will endeavour to bring the arts to the marginalised communities of Morocco. It will support the production of music, songs, film, video and theatre which carry the message of peace, tolerance, respect of others and dialogue between civilizations.

In February this year I was officially appointed an Honorary member of the Association. And, they have given me an even greater honour,for the very little support and encouragement, I feel, that I have been able to give them. To be honest I think that they have given me so much more than I could possibly return, for each time I meet with them I am profoundly touched by the Spirit of Dhar El Mehraz. My new unofficial title is «l’ ange gardien ». So I have a lot to live up to !

If I make it to the top of this beautiful mountain – it will be a very small achievment compared to all that has been achieved by the spirit of Fes Dhar El Mehraz - a spirit as indomitable as the Spirit of Jebel Toubkal. But climbing the biggest mountain in Morocco seems like a good start for an « ange gardien » especially if it helps to raise awareness of their work and convinces lots of people that they would like to contribute something towards its continuation and development helping them continue working their magic. So do please give if you can – I know that any contribution will multiply the transformative magic of the Spirit of Fes Dhar El Mehraz.

My contact is lynnevans80@hotmail.com if you want details of how to sponsor me or just contribute.

The View from Fez supports this sponsorship and invites you to contact Lynn.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Hiking and Climbing in Morocco.

Yesterday's story about exploring the hills around Fez on a mountain bike started me thinking about all of the outdoor activities that tend to be forgotten when you are snowed in in your riad. Our blogger friend Liosliath has also been thinking of the mountains and has a story of hiking up the road from her valley. There is a link to her story at the bottom of this post.

There are hundreds of places for climbing, trekking and even rafting, but here is a sample to give you a taste of what Morocco has to offer.

Biking is superb in Morocco and our pick would be the ride from the Todra Gorge to to the Tamatattouchte Pass and a great downhill run to the village of Msemrir. Then, from the Gorge du Dades to the village of Bou Thar. Bike tour operators will arrange transfers to most hotels in the region, for example it is possible to bike the zig-zag from Bou Thar to the head of the valley, followed by a downhill run to where you can be transfered to the Boulmaine Dades Hotel. One tour organisation does ten to twelve day trips, others offer shorter versions. With your own arrangements you can work out an itinerary that fits your budget and time.

Great places for Trekking.

Middle Atlas scenery

FROM FEZ

There is a great four and a half to five hour trek which starts from Azrou (where they hold the tuesday Souq) . The first destination is the summit of Ras Kharzouza (1900 m) which you reach by way of some beautiful juniper, oak and cork forests that give way to cedar at around 1600 m. From the top of Kharzouza there is a spectacular view out over the Tigrigra Valley, Azrou and the village of Ain Leuh. The best descent is down the other side of the mountain, through Tizi Tioumliline and on to the track beside the Oued Sebbab that leads you back to Azrou. A word of warning - don't feed the Barbary Apes! I have had one launch itself onto my back and this is not an experience to be recommended.

Friendly local checks the time

Another five hour walk starts from Sefrou. If you want to spend time in the souq there, the market day is Friday. The best route for a trek here takes you from Sefrou to the tiny town of Bhalil some one and a half hours away. Bhalil is an ancient Christian city founded by Roman soldiers who had opted out of the Second Legion - or so the story goes. But more astonishing is the present day reality that just behind the village are a few dozen families living in caves. Yes, modern day troglodytes. The walk continues through some beautiful scenic spots and plenty of wildlife in a slow circle down to the starting point at Sefrou.


FROM MARRAKECH

The pick of the High Atlas trips starts from the Bou Guemmez Valley, heading south-west through Berber villages and astounding scenery to three of the highest peaks in the Atlas - Mgoun (4069m./13346ft), Ouanoukrim (4088m./13408ft) and Jebel Toubkal (4167m./13668ft). Starting point in Morocco for this trip is Marrakech and unless you are a very experienced trekker or climber, I would suggest hiring a local guide. There are now some package tours that also give you a chance to climb Toubkal in winter. This is not a particularly difficult ascent although keeping an eye on the weather is a must and I would suggest throwing in an ice-axe and crampons!

In between the High Atlas and the Sahara, is Jebel Sahro range. This is a fabulous area for climbing and trekking in the winter months. The best way in is via Ouarzazate on the south side of the Atlas. There are dozens of relatively easy walking paths between the Berber villages, however, local knowledge is a must, so again, get advice from a local guide. The highest peak here is Amalou n'Mansour (2712m./8895ft.)

As a base camp for trekking or climbing near Toubkal, we recommend Dar Tassa. You can find out about them via email: info@dartassa.com

Read Liosliath's story here.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

CYCLING IN FEZ

If you are a regular visitor to Fez, or maybe you live there, you will be aware of the mountains that provide such a gorgeous backdrop to the Medina. But as you have looked up at Mount Zalagh, have you ever wonder what it’s like up there? Ever thought of finding out?

Now you can. Pierre of Maroc Ecotourisme has imported a range of mountain bikes and ‘hybrids’ (bikes that can be ridden on roads as well as a bit of off-road), and they’re available to hire. As is he. Years of experience in the travel industry and in Morocco means that Pierre is an excellent guide. He not only knows everything about mountain biking, but will point out interesting rocks, plants and trees. He’s has a wealth of information about the area around Fez as well as further afield. And he can fix a puncture, as Patrick Ranger found out. Here is his special report.

Patrick Ranger & Mt Zalagh

“The mountain biking was a highlight of my trip as it really felt as though you could have been anywhere in the world. The farmlands of Mount Zalagh and Mount Tghat were spectacular although badly in need of some rains. I had no idea how big Fez really was and how the King's own farm takes up a huge amount of land...well irrigated land I might add!

The top of Mt Tghat

At times, it felt as though I was cycling around Table Mountain (I’m from Cape Town) as we were in amongst pine trees and big granite rocks. The geography changed all the time and it wasn't ten minutes before you were dodging a sheep or jumping over an olive branch! Some of the climbs were pretty hectic as the ride we did was not for beginners.

Down Mt Tghat

There are several different routes to take so there is something for everyone and Pierre is a good leader. He knows a lot about the landscape, wildlife, history of Fez and the skiing that can be done in the high Atlas. I would recommend getting a bike with front suspension as it does get pretty bumpy, and not cycling in cleats as you do stop a lot and have to put your feet down. Some of the more advanced route is very technical and can present a good challenge.

Tghat Forest

Lunch isn't provided so take a sandwich and some fruit, and plenty of water. It does get pretty hot up there despite the winds and the cloudy sky. Sun cream is also a must as are a good pair of sunglasses with good lenses to protect your eyes from the glare. Apart from that, it's a blast. Some of the downhills are awesome and you can get up to speeds of 60km/h! Just hold on tight!”



Bike hire ranges from Dh130 to Dh180 per day, depending on the bike, and includes a helmet. Normal pedals available if you don’t have cleats. Guide rate for Pierre is Dh250 per day.

www.marocecotourisme.com


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news