Wednesday, March 04, 2009

Telephone numbers change in Morocco


Are you ready for the change?

Friday 6 March sees the addition of an extra digit in all Moroccan telephone numbers. Put simply, fixed lines get a 5 after the initial zero. Mobile phone numbers get a 6 after the initial zero.

Examples: 035 00 00 00 becomes 0535 00 00 00
072 00 00 00 becomes 0672 00 00 00

Emergency numbers will not change.



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Celebrate International Womens Day in Fez




International Womens Day was first celebrated 98 years ago. A global event, the day is dedicated to the economic, political and social achievements of women past, present and future.

In some countries, like China, Russia, Vietnam and Bulgaria, IWD is a national holiday. This Sunday, 8 March, local Fez venue Fes et Gestes and Jess Stephens will be hosting IWD starting with lunch (10% reduction for women) at 12h30, followed by henna artists available from 14h00 and music by Jilaliat, an all-women singing and drumming group from the medina from 15h00 to 17h0o. All welcome (even men!).

Fes et Gestes

Fes et Gestes is at 39 Arsat El Hamoumi in Ziat. Ph 035 63 85 32 or Jess on 045 22 32 03.
Note that from Friday 6 March, these numbers change to 0535 63 85 32 and 0645 22 32 03.


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Tuesday, March 03, 2009

Submit stories to The View from Fez.



Each week The View from Fez gets emails from people with stories they think we should publish. When the story is about new business ventures, real estate offers and so on, we politely decline. Other stories are full of scandal and juicy little rumours - and again we decline. So, to save some people the trouble of wasting precious time emailing, we thought it would be good to set out our story guidelines.

We do like to get tips on breaking news.
We love human interest stories.
(This could include such things as tales of your adventures in Fez, or Morocco in general.)
We always like stories of cultural or historical value.
We publish recipes from time to time so feel free to share your favourites.

Please note that we do share our stories with a large number of sites that have permission to copy our articles. This includes major sites such as AgoraVox and the English language radio service in Morocco which often broadcasts interviews with people featured in our stories.

If you would like to write an item yourself then we would be happy to publish it under your name. But do note that with few exceptions we do not pay a fee.

The story should be of general interest to both Moroccan and expat readers. Stories should be no longer than 500 words. If there is further work to be done such as research, we are happy to assist.

Before submitting a story, please ask yourself the following questions:

(1) Would you be prepared to be quoted? If not we probably won't publish.

(2) Is it really interesting? If we think so we will fact check and probably publish

(3) Can you supply one or more photographs? We love a good pic.

Send your news tip, story idea or written article to The View from Fez : Our email is: fes.riad@gmail.com

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Sufism - a Moroccan youth culture.



In a recent article, Mokhtar Ghambou examines Sufism as youth culture in Morocco. Mokhtar Ghambou is professor of Postcolonial Studies at Yale University. He is also the founder and president of the American Moroccan Institute (AMI). His article was originally written for the Common Ground News Service. Photographs added by The View from Fez.

Sufi brotherhood in Fez
(photo: Suzanna Clarke)

Morocco owes its image of a modern Muslim nation to Sufism, a spiritual and tolerant Islamic tradition that goes back to the first generations of Muslims and has sustained the religious, social and cultural cohesion of Moroccan society for centuries. Sufism provides answers to some of the most complex issues in the contemporary Muslim world, where youth comprise the majority of the population.

Most Moroccans, young or old, practice one form of Sufism or another. As a deep component of the Moroccan identity, Sufism absorbs all members of society, regardless of age, gender, social status or political orientation.

Moroccan youth are increasingly drawn to Sufism because of its tolerance, its fluid interpretation of the Qur'an, its rejection of fanaticism and its embrace of modernity. Young men and women find in the Sufi principles of "beauty" and "humanity" a balanced lifestyle that allows them to enjoy arts, music and love without having to abandon their spiritual and religious obligations.

Sufi orders exist throughout Morocco. They organize regular gatherings to pray, chant and debate timely topics of social and political importance, ranging from the protection of the environment and social charity to the war on drugs and the threat of terrorism.

Sufi inspiration - young Moroccans in Fez.
(photo: Suzanna Clarke)

Moreover, Sufi gatherings inspire young people to engage in interfaith dialogue, highlighting the universal values Islam shares with Christianity and Judaism - such as the pursuit of happiness, love of one's family, tolerance of racial and religious differences, and the promotion of peace.

Combined, Sufi seminars, chants and trances provide millions of Moroccans with a social medium where the fusion of the sacred and the secular, the soul and the body, and the local and the universal is both possible and enjoyable.

I recently asked Ahmed Kostas, an expert on Sufism and director at the Moroccan Ministry of Religious Affairs in Rabat, why this old spiritual tradition is so popular among modern youth.

"Progress and change," he noted, "are basic tenets of Sufi philosophy."

Sufis distance themselves from fundamentalists, whose vision of Islam is a strict and Utopian emulation of the Prophet Muhammad and his companions, by placing great emphasis on the community's adaptation to the concerns and priorities of modern times. Sufis neither condemn unveiled women nor censure modern means of entertainment. For them, the difference between virtue and vice is determined on the basis of intent, not appearances.

Sufism is so diffuse in Moroccan culture that its role cannot be properly understood if reduced to a sect or shrine; it pervades even those musical trends labeled as "modern" or "Western." Rai, as well as Moroccan versions of hip hop and rap, may seem too earthly or too sensual to be associated with Sufism, yet they draw on Sufi poetry to sing the primordial essence of the human body, the virtues of simplicity, and the healing gifts of Sufi saints, such as Sidi Abderrahman Majdub, Sidi Ahmed Tijani, and Sidi Boumediene-spiritual masters revered by their peers and disciples for having attained spiritual union with God during their earthly lives.

Nass Al Ghiwan
(
flikrpic)

The impact of Sufism on youth culture is more explicit in the lyrics of the urban band Nass Al Ghiwan (pictured above)and the Saharan Gnawa musicians. These two groups have profoundly shaped Moroccan popular music since the 1970s. Ghiwan songs, informed by the hippie style of bands like the Rolling Stones and Pink Floyd, inspire many listeners to a physical response called shatha, a Sufi word that Moroccans use for modern dance.

Gnawa musicians, the descendants of African slaves brought to Morocco between the 12th and 17th centuries, produce a similar effect. Their music is a mix of religious lyrics deeply rooted in the oral tradition of sub-Saharan Africa and melancholic melodies reminiscent of American jazz and blues. The Gnawa performance centers on a spinning body and a high-pitched voice, rhyming poetic verses with Sufi chants in Arabic such as "There is no god but God, and Muhammad is his Messenger." These same words are terrifying when they come from the mouth of the terrorist, but lift the soul when they are sung by pious Muslims, Gnawa and other Sufi-inspired musicians.

Fnaire -(myspace photo)

Even Fnaire (pictured above), the most recent hip hop band from Marrakech, identifies itself as a blend of Moroccan Sufi tradition and American rap.

In addition to Moroccans, thousands of young men and women from Europe, America and Africa flock to sacred music festivals organized every summer by Sufi movements throughout Morocco, to sing and celebrate their enthusiasm for life and their commitment to the universal values of peace. The scene at these festivals completely refutes the kind of image that extremists seek to convey to Muslim youth.

Sufi Ceremony
(Photo: Suzanna Clarke)

It is this fusion of Sufism and modernity that produces a unique aesthetic experience, which is attractive to Moroccan youth who reject extremism and uphold values of a shared humanity.

NOTE: And don't forget the Fes Festival of Sufi Culture from 18-25 April. See http://theviewfrommorocco.blogspot.com/2009/01/fez-festival-of-sufi-culture-2009.html

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Landmark cinema for sale



Tell any taxi driver in Fez's Ville Nouvelle the magic words "Cinema Amal" and he will recognise them immediately and have you speeding towards your destination in the medina.

Located at R'Cif, the cinema has been a Fez landmark for decades. It's where the caroussa drivers hang out, and generations of teenagers have gone to meet their friends and revel in Bollywood and Hollywood action flicks. Now, it seems, many of its patrons prefer to watch DVDs, and with patronage declining the owners have decided to sell. It follows the closure about four years ago of the medina's only other cinema near Bab Bou Jeloud.

But history doesn't come cheap. Cinema Amal is on the market for 7 500 000 (about 650 000 euros or US $880 000). However, according to the agent Fez Real Estate (www.fez-realestate.com) there is authorization to construct a hotel of 4 suites and 22 rooms, plus a caretakers apartment.


Or perhaps, as has happened with some old cinemas in Western cities, a wealthy film lover will buy it and convert it to showing more local fare, mixed with the best of what other cultures can offer?



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Morocco in the running for top film awards



This week Morocco has a number of films up for major awards at the 21st Panafrican Film and Television Festival (Fespaco) in Ouagadougou, capital of Burkina Faso.

In the full length movie category, three Moroccan films have been selected for the African equivalent of the Oscar - the Golden Stallion of Yennega - from a field of 19 at the biennial awards. South Africa is the only other country that has three films nominated.

Samira fi dayala

"Samira fi dayala" (Samira's Garden), directed by Latif Lahlou,, won best screenplay at the Montreal World Film Festival in 2007. It's about a young woman married to an older man, who wants to have children but instead is left nursing his elderly father. Frustrated by her sexless marriage, she decides to seduce his cousin.

"Wadaan Oummahat" (Goodbye Mothers), directed by Mohamed Ismail, traces the exodus of Moroccan Jews to Israel in the 1960s, and focuses on the bonds between a Jewish and a Muslim family.

The third is "Whatever Lola Wants", directed by Nabil Ayouch, is the tale of a US postal worker who goes to Egypt with her boyfriend and becomes enchanted by belly dancing.

Short films also shine

Morocco's chances are also strong in the short film category, with four potential award winners including Bensouda's "Le Revenant" (The Ghost) about the anniversary of Mozart's death.

The revival of the country's film industry has largely been due to the strong funding support film-makers receive from the national film board, the Centre Cinematographique Marocain (CCM).

Director Nabil Ayouch said it is important for Morocco to show its films and culture. "In this globalised world where everything is a melting pot, we need to talk about our identity or others will do it in our place," he said.

It is hoped Morocco will become just as widely known for the films it produces as for the wonderful scenery it provides for many American movies. However, distribution of local films internationally is still a significant hurdle to overcome.


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Monday, March 02, 2009

Café Clock in Fez - Cultural menu



Berber banjos? Can it be? Check out the Clock's Sunday Sunset Concert to find out. Here's the week's menu:



Monday, Wednesday & Friday 15h00-17h00
Calligraphy
Discover the sacred art of calligraphy with the master, Mohamed Charkaoui. Private lessons by arrangements.

Thursday
Oriental and Belly Dance with Saida at 17h00 Dh50

Movie 18h00: free admission
Indigenes
is an excellent war movie with an unusual theme: the discimination against soldiers from the French colonies (including Morocco) during WWII.

Sunday Sunset Concert 18h00 Dh20

Noureddine: Nass el Ghiwan songs with banjo

Please note Nora is away this week, so no Yoga class until next Tuesday.

Cafe Clock will be hosting a Moroccan Film Festival later this month. Programme to be announced.

Contact www.cafeclock.com for more information.





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Sunday, March 01, 2009

The earth moves in Essaouira!


Spices in the souq in Essaouira.. no damage!

Magnitude 4.6 earthquake hits Essaouira province

An earth tremor measuring 4.6 on the Richter scale hit Saturday evening the province of Essaouira, southern Morocco, the National Geophysics Institute reported.

The epicentre of the quake, which occurred at around 8 pm, was in the commune of Sidi Kaouki, about 20 km from Essaouira.

No casualties or losses were reported, according to local authorities.


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Rare stamps from Morocco




In the last few years The View from Fez has posted almost two thousand articles on almost every facet of life and culture in Morocco. Today we explore a subject we have never come across before - stamps!



For those interested in philately, Morocco is probably a very well known, but for those (like us) who know very little, here is a quick summary.

According to our research, the first Moroccan postal stamps were issued by private companies from a number of countries. The stamps, of very poor quality, were printed by the different companies, each with permission to run a postal service between only two cities each. So, for example, a company in Tangier might run post between Tangier and Fez and Tangier and Tetouan.



A new system was established at the end of 1911 when Morocco issued two series of postal stamps which served the whole Morocco.

What is interesting about the early stamps is that there are French, English, Spanish, then German stamps in Morocco in 1852,1857,1865 and 1899.


In 1970 the Postal Museum was opened in Rabat and has a superb collection of Moroccan stamps, envelopes, telephones and telegraph machines, including the Baudot (telegraph with printer), as well as belinographs (machines for reproducing photographs over a long distance) and postal vans.

Among the major items is Morocco's first official stamp, dated 12th may 1912, showing the Aissaoua Mosque in Tangier.

British mail notice


*Note the spelling of Meknes!

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