Friday, October 31, 2008

The Halloween Party in Fez



If a picture is worth a thousand words...
Welcome to the Fez Lounge Halloween Bash.


"There really is life in the old Medina.."

"Well one of us is Moroccan!"

Alessandro models his glowing Fez for Dominick.

"What did they put in this shisha?"

"I don't know, but I like it!"

How many Fulbright Scholars can you get in one lounge?

'She who dances' - entrances


Gail wonders if Graham has snuck in in disguise

We swear this is not Graham.

Konichiwa! Watakushi-wa shisha, desu!

"You plaited them yourself, Imelda?"

"Plaiting is just one of my skills".

"Did they really let an Australian in?"

"Yeah, I reackon that's me mate, Julian from Oz."

"An Australian? I'll fix him"

"You really would like to teach me to speak Darija?"

Our thanks to Alessandro, the F'lounge crew and 'She who Dances' - for a great night.

Photos: Sandy McCutcheon

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Thursday, October 30, 2008

Fez Medina Departure Lounge




"I'll miss Fez, my friends, my house ( especially the basement)... but the Caribbean has some attractions... did I tell you about the Bianca incident...?"

In the lap of luxury...Louis with Tony Hall aboard the "Bianca"

Over the past few years in Fez we have had many colourful characters passing through. Some have faded away, some remain... and then there is Louis. When Louis da Fez first arrived on the scene locals and expats alike were intrigued. Why had a man who worked on luxury yachts in exotic places given it all up to live in the Fez Medina? As he said at the time..."I was on a trip back to England and found that everyone was talking about Fez in Morocco. I didn’t even know where Fez was, so I decided to investigate.”

It was a fateful decision. To put it simply – he fell in love with the Medina. “Coming through the Bab Bou Jeloud I realized I was walking into a magical place. I was only in the Medina for three days, but it pressed all my buttons. I ditched the notion of a second place in Spain and instead looked at every available house – and found one. I put down a deposit and went back to Spain."

In 2006 Louis broke the world record for cookie munching.

To describe Louis as a party animal would be an understatement. Yet his first priority on arriving back in Fez was restoring his house. He did so with apparent ease, helped by having a really good relationship with the locals. Once his beautiful house was restored Louis relaxed into Medina life and became a founding member of the Purple Circle - a group of Moroccans and expats putting energy into cultural events. At his farewell last night he was made a life member and his place on the board taken by a certain Dominique...

Purple Circle - Kleo & Louis da Fez

Last night's farewell was held at Flounge where a crowd gathered to have a final glass of mint tea with Louis before he heads back to the world of glamour yachts. This time next week Louis will be in the Carribean.

Travel well Louis - you will be missed.




Nabil & Dominick



Alessandro & Jonathon



She who dances ... danced farewell to Louis da Fez

Alessandro generously showered everyone with fabulous food.

Thanks to the Fez Lounge staff for your hospitality.


Photos: Sandy McCutcheon

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Pumpkin carving champion of Fez?



Now The View from Fez has to admit that it knows nothing about Halloween or pumpkin carving. It is not something that exists in our culture. So we sent an American friend who is visiting Fez to report back on the pumpkin carving frenzy.

A winner was selected and we sent our photographer along to record the ..er... work of art?

And the winner is:

Cafe Clock's Tariq and his creation


PS. Tariq admits this was his first ever attempt so if you think you have a better "work of art" - then send us the photo.

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Motorbikes in the Fés Medina - readers respond.


Our recent story on bikes in the Medina brought a flood of emails and although we haven't the space to publish them all, we thought a couple were worth sharing.

Jenny from Marrakech says:

It would very good if Fés learns from the mistakes in Marrakech. Here the noise, pollution and danger of mopeds and bikes is a very big problem and our guests most common complaint is about nearly being run over. It would be so easy to ban them here, but nobody seems to understand what a problem it is. Fes should act now while the number of bikes is still small.

Abdulwahed from Fez says:

Most people don't realise that there have already been accidents and some people hurt by motorbikes. The local people do not like them either. The police should fine anyone who is driving a motorbike in the streets. I think pushing them is okay.

Richard from Fez says:

For some years I have been trying to convince local authorities in meetings and by letter (to the pacha, wali, prefecture etc) that the introduction of motorbikes, three-wheelers and 'hondas' will soon destroy the ambience and charm of the mcdina. None of these people have taken the slightest notice. Now, as tourism in Fes returns and wages rise and the bikes become cheaper, the médina in parts is crawling with motorbikes/mopeds.

It appears that those involved in tourism and therefore with most vested interest are those least aware of the problem: they never venture out of the VN and also have absolutely no idea of the current situation in Marrakech, where bikers have become so aggressive that both vistors and locals are starting to shun the médina entirely.

In February this year a higly-placed member of the CRT, during a private meeting with me, called the Chief of Police and asked him about the notices banning motorised vehicles that were supposedly being prepared, to be installed on each main gate of the médina. The response, in front of me, was that these notices had already been placed at Bab Boujloud and Bab el Guissa. Has anyone seen them yet? Was this police official being economic with the actuality? And,if so,why?

The fact is that there are no laws regarding the illegality of motorised vehicles in the médina and if there were, there could be no control other than the occasional acceptance of a note or two, once in a while. No Law & No Control. What to do? Perhaps finding a way to the King is now the only answer. If not somebody's child will be run over and the politicians will make a fuss & do nothing. If there are other forums they should be found, as it is ultimately Morocco which must take responsibilty for the desecration of this extraordinary city.

If another Merc gets into the streets I suggest someone takes the keys and throws them in the tannery vats.


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Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Medina Gossip #3506


Once again it is time for a quick round-up of gossip from the Fez Medina. Our spies have been out and about and can report that despite the weather ( wet one day, fine the next) the streets are buzzing with tourists. Local shop keepers say that the economic woes in other places seem to have made little impact on tourist spending. However a couple of the guest house owners grumbled to us that numbers were slightly down.

The good news on the horizon is the reintroduction of flights from the UK. The new flights will be from Gatwick with Atlas Blue. The other good news is that unlike the Ryanair flights from Luton that used to require checking in before dawn, the new flights leave London at the very civilized hour of 11.50 and get in to Fez at 14.40. The return to London leaves at 15.30 and gets in at 18.20. We have managed to find some one way flights for as low as 150 Euro ( including taxes) with others up to 368.

The Halloween Bash

Decision time! Two of the local cafes are having Halloween parties - Cafe Clock staff have already tried their hands at carving up pumpkins and at Fez Lounge the free nibbles and decorations are the subject of intense speculation . At the Clock, Maestro Mike has returned from his search in Spain for a Halloween outfit while the rest of us search the souqs for suitable attire. A visit to both establishments seems like a good idea. And here's what our good friend Jillian York is writing on Global Voices: morocco -halloween not just for expats anymore.

Pasquotank folks know how to carve a pumpkin

The ever-resourceful Dominick (pictured above) decided that the perfect Halloween outfit would need a great deal of research and so has been scouring the internet for advice from the fashion mavens of Pasquotank, North Carolina ( Pasquotank pop, 16 ) - though a quick check of his computer showed us he had also browsed the job offers.

Dutch delights for Halloween?

Robyn, (pictured above) was unable to decide which party to go to and which frock to wear so has headed off to Amsterdam for some Dutch Trick or Treats.

Another rumour has it that the big boss Louis da Fez is back in town for a flying visit. It is hoped he will stick around for the Halloween parties - and add some Purple Circle class to the proceedings. Another Purple Circle member, Helen Ranger, is also flying in from working in South Africa in order to frock up and front up to any party that's happening.

And while talking of the Purple Circle, Suzanna Clarke's bestseller A House in Fez is due to be launched in the United States within the next couple of weeks.

The book, which sold out in Australia, has just been re released in time for Christmas in the antipodes. The British version, though disappointingly small in comparison to the Penguin edition from Australia, has been a big hit. Fortunately the American edition will have all the photographs of the original collectors hardback edition and will be larger format than the UK version. The launch will be in New York and rumour has it the Moroccan Tourist authorities there will hold a party for Suzanna. We wish her well for the launch.

Meanwhile, up in the area around Ban Boujeloud the restoration of the Medina is continuing to impress. Around the corner from the Batha post office a small area has been set aside and a brand new fountain is being constructed. It is tasteful, stylish and certainly an improvement. Our congratulations to the Medina authorities.

According to Thami ( of the famous street restaurant "Thami") - the Bab Boujeloud work and the paving in front of his street tables should be completed within the next few months. The sign outside the Medina suggests eight.

Thami (with the Queen of the warka) gives the new work the thumb's up.

The best warka (b'stilla pastry) maker in the Medina? We have seen the kitchen folk from the top Medina establishments come to her to purchase their supplies... and her enterprise is expanding. Until recently she had to use the scales in other shops. Yesterday we spotted she has her own set of scales.

And while we are talking of micro-enterprises, did you know that more than 600,000 out of a total of one million clients in the microfinance sector in 2007 were women? Yes, this according according to the National Federation of Microfinance Associations in Morocco who announced this during a meeting of the association in Casablanca.

FNAM statistics also show that more than 20 billion dirhams ($2.26 billion) have been distributed thus far, 13 billion dirhams, ($1.48 billion) of which is invested by women in productive projects, especially in poor rural area. The microcredit sector has been developing at fast pace since the 1990`s and it is now an essential instrument in the struggle against exclusion and poverty in Morocco

High illiteracy rates, particularly between women, about 60%, are a serious constraint for their participation and ownership of businesses because they have fewer and lower options to get a job, that’s why women are more interested in micro-loans than men.

In rural areas they resorted to microcredit so as to have enough liquidity to buy a small number of goats, which she uses to produce milk and cheese, or raise rabbits, thereby generating some income and achieving a degree of financial independence.

However, in urban areas, microloans have attracted the attention of unemployed young women seeking to establish small income-inducing projects in traditional industries or by opening shops.

The recipients receive more than just money; a representative from the microcredit agency put together a business plan with the entrepreneur. They pay monthly visits to collect repayments, but also provide administrative and legal support to help ensure the business is remaining on track. Approximately 2,500 people, in Morocco, work in the area of microcredit.

Although the loans granted are small, Studies have shown that access to such loans can improve the status of women within the family and the community. Women become more assertive and confident, they come to own assets, including land and housing, play a stronger role in decision-making and take on leadership roles in their communities moreover this kind of financing partially contributes to the fight against poverty and unemployment.


Reporting for Medina Gossip: Samir, Sandy, Madam K.
Photographs: Sandy McCutcheon

Send your gossip to fes.riad@gmail.com


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Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Faces in the Medina - Imelda O'Reilly.



From time to time The View from Fez throws the spotlight on new faces in the Fez Medina. This week we focus on Imelda O'Reilly, a woman who is making a valuable contribution to intellectual and cultural life in Fez.

Imelda O’ Reilly is a native of Kildare Ireland. She is a poet, playwright and filmmaker. Her published books include; I Wake In Half Dream, (Lapwing Press in 2004) Shenanigans, (Sceptre in the UK in 1999). She also has a compilation of poetry to music entitled In People’s Heads with Grammy Nominee Joel Diamond.

Imelda O'Reilly


Imelda has written and directed numerous plays. Her second, Faz In Ate was selected as part of the Mabou Mines Artist in Residence Program in 2000. It was then co-produced by Deadalus Theatre Company in New York. Imelda’s Emilita and the Faery Glen, first broadcast at Symphony Space on Broadway at WNYC was commissioned and co-produced by Deadalus Theatre Co., (NY, 2001). Most recently, Imelda was commissioned as a writer on Mabou Mines upcoming production of Song For New York, directed by Ruth Maleczech. It was performed outdoors on a barge in all five boroughs of New York in the summer of 2007.

She has written and directed six short films. These include The Seamonster and the Milk Thistle that appeared in numerous Film Festivals, and won an award for Best Cinematography. Beneath the Boy’s Cry was selected to participate in Moonstone International for 2007. Beneath the Boy’s Cry is currently short-listed for the Sundance Screenwriters and Directors Lab for 2009.

Individual artists grants include New York Foundation for the Arts, The Irish Arts Council, The Virginia Wellington Cabot Foundation and Unity Theatre Co. In addition, Imelda was selected for the New York Women in Film Fellowship for the most promising female director attending Columbia University where she recently graduated with an M.F.A. in film.

Most recently, Imelda was awarded a Fulbright Fellowship to shoot a narrative film in Morocco in 2008. Her short film Bricks, Beds and Sheep’s Heads was nominated as a regional finalist for the student academy awards finals in 2008.

Still shots from Bricks, Beds & Sheep’s Heads


The View from Fez recently had the pleasure of watching Bricks, Beds & Sheep’s Heads and found it a wonderful experience.

Bricks, Beds & Sheep’s Heads is an odyssey of a Moroccan immigrant named Murad looking back at his life on Aid El Kbir. Aid El Kbir is a celebratory Islamic holiday that occurs two months after Ramadan. Upon reflection of his fragmented past, moments are revealed as memory collides with attachment, longing and loss. On the dawn of Aid El Kbir, Murad discovers the boundaries of life and death.

This is a truly touching story that skilfully juxtaposes images of an Aid sheep sacrifice with a gentle and poetic narrative. The stark and haunting images, beautifully filmed, take us inside Murad's mind and heart both as an adult and a child to the extent where we feel his journey is our journey. O'Reilly's sensitive and truthful portrayal of the Medina is a credit to her and her crew. This film is a rare treat indeed and one whose story that is rich and rewarding enough to warrant a full length film treatment.

Imelda is a welcome addition to our wonderfully diverse cultural landscape.

Details:
Bricks, Beds and Sheep’s Heads
Written and Directed By Imelda O’Reilly
Cinematography – Joe Foley
Original Score Composed By – Joel Diamond
Edited By – Samy El Mekkaoui
Starring - Rabbi Zanine, Mouhcine Fadli, Soujiane Olaanaya, Naima Fadli.

Contact
www.imeldaoreilly.com

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Café Clock - the cultural menu





Wednesday 29 October: 10 – 12 a.m.
Darija Conversation ( Level 1 + 2)
40 dh ( Discounts Available )

Thursday 30 October : 6p.m. ( Free )
Film : Rocky Horror Picture Show

Friday 31 October :
Pumpkin Halloween, Horror and Frolics @ the Clock

Sunday 2 November – 11 a.m.
Oriental Dance @ the Clock ( 30 dh )
Reserve a place.

Please note there is no calligraphy course this Sunday

Sunday 2 November : 6 p.m.
Sunday Sunset Concert ( 20 dh )
Erich Groat : Unplugged Original Rock Melodies



Turn up the Culture!
www.cafeclock.com

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Fez Lounge does Halloween.


The word is out and about that the place to be on Friday night is Flounge - the Fez lounge. The Halloween Party kicks off at around eight and we are told that a little later in the evening dancing will be on the menu.

For those who have not enjoyed the hospitality of the Flounge, we can report that the Chocolate Brownie with ice cream is to die for! And the shisha? Well, when you need to relax it is certainly worth chilling out with a mint tea on the side. The cost is 60 dirhams for a shisha of the very best quality. Shisha & mint tea is 100 dhs

And when you have the munchies the famous Warm Brownie with ice cream is 35 dhs

Other tapas treats are the Fish Briouates at 45 dhs, along with the Bruschetta de Camembert with walnuts and balsamic vinegar at 50 dhs

Lunch menus (and dinner why not) are available like the Lonely Lunch Menu at 120 with mozzarella salad, briouates kefta, brownie and a drink. Or the Smart Menu for two at 250 complete with shisha.

So then, that's the plan - drop into Flounge for Halloween this Friday.



95, Zkak Rouah, Tala Kbira


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Monday, October 27, 2008

American Travel Writers in Fez.



Neq Embroidery

Spring, O'Brien, a public relations firm specializing in destination marketing and representing the Moroccan National Tourist Office in the US sent a group of top travel journalists to Fez. Today they toured the Medina and hopefully will write some very positive stories about their experience.

Lead by Nora Brossard from Spring, O'Brien, and with their guide, Si Mohammed, they started the day at Bab Boujeloud and visited Neq Embroidery, arguably the finest embroidery shop in the Medina. After a demonstration of the art of embroidery they continued on to Cafe Clock for a quick coffee and shisha.

The rest of the day was spent wandering the Medina visiting traditional craft shops, a restaurant, weaving and mat making workshops and the vegetable souq at R'Cif.

Publications and magazines they represent include, Global Traveler, Good Housekeeping, Dallas Morning News, Away.com, Brilliant Magazine, Gatehouse Media, IgoUgo.com, Travelocity.com, Business Traveler, Miami Herald, and Get Away with Fran!

We will try and discover what they write about Fez - and then report back. In the meantime here is a seldom seen sight - journalists hitting the shisha at Cafe Clock!

Ah... shisha nirvana

But this IS the way I play my flute...

 class=How come we didn't learn this at university?

Yep... same old shisha, just like Lebanon, or was that Cairo?

POSTSCRIPT
And with the speed of an accomplished blogger, Fran Golden has already posted a story on her blog - Get Away with Fran. Read it here: Fantastic Fez

(Photo Fran Golden - other photos: Sandy McCutcheon)

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