The Fez - Sarkozy connection.

The View from Fez was slipped the details by our French correspondent WW that Sarkozy's ex wife has rushed into a new marriage - with a man from Fez. We checked it out and here is the story.

French President Nicolas Sarkozy's former wife Cecilia Ciganer-Albeniz has remarried at a private ceremony in New York's Rockefeller Center in what has been described as a "revenge wedding".

She wed Moroccan-born public relations executive Richard Attias in the New York landmark's Rainbow Room. Richard comes from the spiritual heart of Morocco - the ancient Medina of Fez.

Arriving in a black limousine with tinted windows, the couple avoided photographers by using an underground car park.

Mr Sarkozy himself remarried less than two months ago.

He tied the knot with Carla Bruni on 2 February - less than four months after the end of his volatile 11-year marriage to Ms Ciganer-Albeniz, to whom he sent a text message eight days prior to the wedding, saying he would 'call it off" if she came back.

Media reports have referred to the New York nuptials as a "revenge wedding". The speed with which Sarkozy and his ex remarried has been much commented on but their speeding is not just restricted to nuptials, as the couple have already experienced their first post-wedding traffic stop together. Cops in New York pulled the pair over yesterday after they were observed speeding and passing dangerously.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

A thought for the day.

The visitor to a place whose charm is a result of its backwardness is inclined to hope it will remain that way, regardless of how those who live in it may feel. The seeker of the picturesque sees the spread of improved techniques as an unalloyed abomination. - Paul Bowles ( from the introduction to his book - Their Heads are Green)

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Can DNA & cloning return Morocco's lions to the wild?

"The last known Barbary Lion in the wild was shot in 1942 on the northern side of the Tizi-n-Tichka pass in the Atlas Mountains, near the road between Marrakech and Ouarzazat, two of major tourists destinations in Morocco today."

Two medieval skulls found in the Tower of London belonged to a kind of lion that boasted a giant dark mane, according to a genetic study that sheds new light on one of the world's oldest zoos. Infamous as a place of torture and executions, and home to the Crown Jewels, the Tower was also home to lions, which were charismatic symbols of monarchy.

Now researchers have used DNA evidence to analyse two members of the royal menagerie, the oldest being late 13th to late 14th century (1280-1385) and 'youngest' 15th century (1420-1480), the only medieval big cat remains found in England.

They conclude that they were male Barbary lions, a species that hails from north Africa, where no natural lion population remains today. Lion manes can vary from light blond to black and can be up to a foot long. But the Barbary, a subspecies extinct in the wild, had a magnificently regal mane, their equivalent of the Peacock's tail that they used to turn on lionesses.

They were members of the royal "zoo", which survived for more than 600 years after being founded by King John (1199 to 1216) and the lions are a sign that the UK enjoyed good relations with foreign monarchs, who presented exotic animals as gifts.

The new study in the journal Contributions in Zoology provides important information on some of the earliest lions seen in northern Europe since European lions became extinct at the end of the last Ice Age, some 14,000 to 11,000 years ago.

Remains from the moat, excavated in the 1930s, were analysed by the Natural History Museum and the University of Oxford, focusing on a type of genetic material that is passed from lioness to cub, called mitochondrial DNA.

The DNA in the skulls revealed the lions shared unique genes with the north African Barbary lion. Richard Sabin, Curator of Mammals at the museum says, "Our results are the first genetic evidence to clearly confirm that lions found during excavations at the Tower of London originated in north Africa.

"Although we have one of the best mammal collections in the world here at the Natural History Museum, few physical remains survive of the Royal Menagerie.

"Direct animal trade between Europe and sub-Saharan Africa was not developed until the eighteenth century, so our results provide new insights into the patterns of historic animal trafficking.'

Oxford researcher Nobuyuki Yamaguchi adds, 'Western north Africa was the nearest region to Europe to sustain lion populations until the early twentieth century, making it an obvious and practical source for mediaeval merchants. Apart from a tiny population in northwest India, lions had been practically exterminated outside sub-Saharan Africa by the turn of the twentieth century.'

Both the lions were males, as they have longer skulls and larger canine teeth than females, and three to four years old. The skulls are now part of the Natural History Museum's vast collections.
The Royal Menagerie was established in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries by King John, in Woodstock near Oxford and later relocated to the Tower of London.

Among the first residents were three leopards sent to Henry III by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II in 1235. The earliest written record of an English lion occurs in 1240. It refers to the upkeep of "the King's lion." Radiocarbon dating of the skulls of the two lions and a leopard in earlier work supported historic documents.

Though few physical traces of the menagerie remain, experts have previously pointed to written records of a semi-circular structure built by King Edward I in 1277 in an area that later became known as the Lion Tower. Excavations in 1999 revealed that one lion cage measured just 6.5 feet by 10 feet.

"The last known Barbary Lion in the wild was shot in 1942 on the northern side of the Tizi-n-Tichka pass in the Atlas Mountains, near the road between Marrakech and Ouarzazat, two of major tourists destinations in Morocco today," says Dr Yamaguchi.

"The Barbary lion was believed to be extinct in captivity as well. However, possible Barbary lion descendants that can be traced back to the Royal Lion Collection of the King of Morocco, have been located in zoos and circus populations within the last three decades. "

Although a recent study carried out at Oxford suggests that those "Moroccan King's lions" are unlikely to be pure Barbary lions on the maternal side, a firm conclusion needs to wait for further advances in DNA techniques for revealing their paternal lines.

"Someday, once again, we may see a big dark maned lion in the snow-capped Atlas backdrop, and listen to their roars filling the valleys with echoes, as was once described by 19th Century travellers," adds Dr Yamaguchi.

Panthera leo, Ljubljana Zoo

It is possible that the lion in the Ljubljana zoo is a Barbary lion.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Show us your Melons!

Morocco's melon season is about to start. But the bad news is that the melons that appear in the souqs are the ones that Europe doesn't want. The Moroccan melon varieties are grown principally for export and are "Castella" and "Magenta". Much of the production is around Marrakech according to major producer, the Mazzoni Group, (one of the main players in the Italian fresh produce industry).

Sergio Trevisan says... "The Castella variety is very reliable both with regard to quality and quantity. Magenta has been introduced 4-5 years ago. All the production in the weight's range from 800 to 1800 gr. (about 17-20 MT/ha) is shipped to Italy. The remaining production was once exported to UK or Spain, but the domestic consumption in Morocco is so increased during the last 2-3 years that our melons with greater or smaller sizes are sold locally".


With regard to the beginning of the season for the Moroccan melons, Trevisan says: "Last year we started later than usual, due to cold temperatures after the planting phase. This year, on the contrary, thanks to favorable weather conditions, we are expecting the first shippings on 10-12 April, 8-10 days in advance than usual. The season will last until end May, when we will stop importing Moroccan melons in order to avoid an oversupply at the time Italian melons too arrive on the market".

While listing the pros of producing melons in Morocco, Trevisan indicates: lower production costs and higher yield per hectare than in Italy, excellent weather conditions, with a great difference between daily and nighttime temperatures, what allows a fruit maturation with a high sugar content (16-18 Brix). "We have got an ace in the hole too - Trevisan says - and that is our agronomist, whose long experience and know-how allow us to harvest the product at the right maturation stadium. All these pros are compensating us for the high transport costs from Morocco to Italy".


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Bringing home the bacon - Moroccan style!

One of the last things you would expect to find in Morocco is a pig farm. Given that the consumption of pork is a religious taboo it may come as a surprise that this is a growth industry. And the reason? Tourism. With millions of tourists flocking to Morocco, the demand for pork products, sausages, bacon and ham has risen to an all time high.

According to a pig farmer quoted by AFP the business has causes no ethical problems.
'I'm a practising Muslim. I don't eat pork and I don't drink alcohol but it's just a breeding operation like any other and no Imam has ever reprimanded me for it,' he said of raising pigs -- whose consumption is prohibited in both Islam and Judaism.

Outlawed in Algeria, Mauritania and Libya, pig farming is nonetheless authorised in Tunisia as in Morocco, to cater to the flocks of European and other non-Muslim tourists who head to north Africa's spectacular beaches and deserts.

'Our clientele is 98 percent European. They want bacon for breakfast, ham for lunch and pork chops for dinner,' said Ahmad Bartoul, a buyer for a large Agadir hotel. Signs are posted on buffet tables to avoid any confusion about the meat's origin.

The industry which raises around five thousand pigs raised on seven farms located near Agadir, Casablanca and the north-central city of Taza is run by a very Moroccan mixture of individuals - a Christian, two Jews and four Muslims!

Annual production is currently estimated at 270 tonnes of meat, bringing in some 12 million dirhams (1 million euros, 1.6 million dollars) in revenue.

The Jewish breeder, Jean Yves Yoel Chriquia, owns the country's main pork processing factory along with a farm of 1,000 pigs. Chriquia also buys pigs from local farmers at 22 dirhams a kilo.

Four times a month, he goes to the slaughter house in Agadir - but must enter from a door other than that used for deliveries of meat that is Halal, or authorised under Islam.

'We have a special place for this sort of slaughter. After cutting up the meat and getting the veterinarian's stamp, we transport it to the factory and put it in cold storage,' Yoel said.

Almost 80 percent of his products are earmarked for hotels in Agadir and Marrakech. The rest heads to supermarkets and butcher shops -- and to feed some 220 Chinese workers building a nearby motorway.

'My wife was certain we would never find pork because we were in a Muslim country,' said French retiree Bernard Samoyeau, as he ordered pork at from a butcher in Agadir. 'We have been pleasantly surprised.'

Yoel is also pleased.

'We have more than doubled our sales in three years and it's starting to snowball. But since we rely on tourism, we must be careful,' he said.

Nor does he see a conflict between his job and his Jewish faith.

'Religion is a private matter. What I do is just another way to earn a living and my Rabbi has never said anything about it,' he said.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Marathon des Sables: 27 March to 7 April 2008

The Toughest Footrace on Earth

Welcome to the world of lunatics and masochists - don't take offence, I have great admiration for all those who even think about doing this event.

Why this IS the toughest footrace on Earth

It covers 243km/151 miles (in sections similar to 25, 34, 38, 82, 42, 22 km) run over 6 days (7 for some) - equivalent to 5 1/2 regular marathons. That's a speed of between 3 and 14 km an hour for competitors aged between 16 and 78). In addition to that, competitors have to carry everything they will need for the duration (apart from a tent) on their backs in a rucksack (food, clothes, medical kit, sleeping bag etc). Water is rationed and handed out at each checkpoint.

You will have to prepare all your own food throughout the race and I warn you that there is not a chain of Tesco stores or corner grocery shops dotted around the Sahara. You will experience mid-day temperatures of up to 120°F, of running or walking on uneven rocky, stony ground as well as 15 - 20% of the distance being in sand dunes.

The heat, distance and rubbing will trash your feet and may cause severe trauma if incorrect shoes and equipment are used. Mental stamina probably constitutes at least 50% of whether you will complete the distance or not. Physical fitness is important but don't underestimate the mental stress that you will need to endure. Even if you have run dozens of 26 mile marathons, this does not mean that you will automatically find the MdS easy - either way you will be planning to do lots of training prior to the MdS.

On the 4^th day, you will set off across the barren wilderness to complete a 45 - 50 mile stage. Few people complete this before dark that evening and some will not come in till after dark the next night. This is followed by the 42km Marathon stage!! Its tough, so don't say that nobody warned you in the strongest terms.

To find out more please visit the British site; Marathon des Sables


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

A Cross-Cultural Forum on Political Participation and Civic Activism

Find Your Voice

A Cross-Cultural Forum on Political Participation and Civic Activism

Rabat, Morocco April 25-26, 2008

Americans for Informed Democracy (AID) and the Project on Middle East Democracy (POMED), along with the Centre Marocain d'Etudes Stratégiques (CMES) and the Institut National de la Jeunesse et la Démocratie (INJD), are now accepting applications for the conference "Find Your Voice: A Cross-Cultural Forum on Political Participation and Civic Activism."

This two-day conference will be a multilingual dialogue on the necessity of youth mobilization in the political process and empowering emerging leaders in political parties and civil society. Bringing together Moroccan and American experts on media, political party participation, youth mobilization and citizen journalism, participants will engage the speakers in debate, hold small group discussions, and partake in youth mobilization workshops. The participants will also develop and ratify policy recommendations to be presented to government representatives.

For more information regarding conference topics and application materials, please visit: http://pomed.org/activities/conferences/morocco-app/

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez World Sacred Music Festival 2008 - Information in English

Several readers have written saying it is hard to find out where to and how to buy tickets to the 2008 Festival in English. so here is the information.

You can contact English-speaking Naima at the ticketing agency:
OBJECTIF MAROC
9,RUE DE LYBIE -FES
TEL : + 212 35 65 28 16/17/18
FAX : + 212 35 62 49 93/ 35 62 17 76
E.MAIL :objectif_naima@menara.ma

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez Sacred Music Festival - Highlight No. 2

Mnemba, off Zanzibar

It wasn't that long ago that Lumen found herself on the remarkably beautiful island of Mnemba, off the northern tip of Zanzibar. It's a privately-owned island with an exclusive lodge, a dive school and fabulous coral to explore offshore. One evening, Lumen went to the bar before dining alfresco on the beach and was blown away by the music playing ... it was Ismael Lô, and she's been a fan ever since. Hence Lumen is first in the queue for tickets to the final night of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, when Lô will be performing along with the Hamadcha Sufi Brotherhood.

Ismael Lô

Ismael Lô is from Senegal. He almost became a painter, but singing took precedence. He joined the successful group Super Diamono in Dakar, but eventually went solo. His music draws on mbalax - the rhythms of the Wolof people of Senegal - along with cool French ballads; he plays guitar and harmonica. A member of the Tijani Sufi brotherhood, whose saint is buried at the Sidi Ahmed Tijani Zawiya in Fez, he's enormously popular in France where he now lives, and was awarded the Legion d'Honneur in 2002.

Lô will be performing at the end of his set with the Hamadcha Sufi Brotherhood of Fez, led by Moqaddem Abderrahim Amrani Marrakchi. This brotherhood was founded by Sidi Ali Ben Hamdouch in the 17th century and is known for its spellbinding music, dance and trance.

The Hamadcha Brotherhood performs at Riad Zany

See the full program here: The 14th Fes Festival of World Sacred Music

Ticket collection service here: Ticket Collection

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Foreign prestidigitators raise curtains of 5th International Magic festival

Moroccan and foreign prestidigitators (yes, that's magicians) raised the curtain this week on the 5th International Magic festival in Marrakech. The opening performance ran for an hour and a half, with the magicians performing illusions and tricks to the amazement of an audience of young students.

Held between March 20 and 23, the festival, which brings together magicians from Morocco, Spain, Italy, France, Belgium and Austria, seeks to rival other international magic festivals such as those of Las Vegas and Los Angeles in the United States, and Cannes in France.

If you are in Marrakech then check it out at the three sites - The Royal Theatre, the Megarama Cinema Complex and the mystical palace Jamaa El Fna. There will also be a number of free events that will be organized for the benefit of orphans in the region.

The festival is expected to be attended by some 200,000 spectators, with highlights of a tour of neighboring districts of Marrakech, such as Tahannaout, Chichaoua, El Kelaa and Essaouira.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Arthur C Clarke dies

The death of Arthur C. Clarke was not unexpected as he was 90 years old been suffering from post-polio disorder for many years. It was nonethelss a sad event. The man was more than simply one of the world's best known and loved science-fiction writers, with books like Childhood’s End and Rendezvous with Rama and of course he will be remembered by many for the film 2001 A Space Odyssey, but he was also a major force in science being the man who first popularized the idea of communications satellites, a concept that was rejected by some as being too far-fetched.

He died at his home in Sri Lanka. He will be missed.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Would you believe... Cafe Clock does pudding.

Today our`resident fab food stylist, Chou-chou Postlethwaite, headed to Cafe Clock and got a big surprise. Here is Chou-chou's report.

Now normally I am not one to rave about pudding. Yes, you read correctly, pudding. But... just a few minutes ago I was accosted by a dessert! There I was in Cafe Clock, happily munching away on Eggs Florentine - it was breakfast - at 3 in the afternoon. Anyway, then Tariq pulled a bread and butter pudding out of the oven. Mike trotted over and offered me some.


How could I say no? I couldn't and I didn't and omigod! It was not the way my mum cooked it (just as well because she made the worst bread and butter pudding in the known universe. In fact during the war my mum sold her recipe to the army and the enemy surrendered on masse. Not cos they liked it, I hasten to add. It was a threat, see?)

This was better, far better and mouthful after mouthful I savoured the flavours, the slices of apple, the custardy bits and those fabulous moments when a toasted raisin explodes in your mouth. Ah... heaven! So what to do? A second slice? A pause and then more? Or simply sit and let the ripples of pleasure course through my sweet trembling bod. I leave you to imagine any part of the above you like....

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

King grants pardon to 566 people on Id Al-mawlid

The King was in Fez for the Prophet's Birthday (Id Al-mawlid) and the celebrations and security brought parts of the Medina to a standstill. With Mohammed VI going to the Kerouyine Mosque for evening prayers, people lined the streets as far back as Bab R'Cif. The genuine love of the people for their king was evident as crowds were gathering and the excitement building hours in advance. Trying to get from one end of the vegetable souq to the other, a stroll that usually takes about ten minutes - took almost an hour. Visitors to Morocco must have been counting themselves lucky to see the festivities and witness the streams of people, all in the best outfits, making their way into the Medina. Troops of singers in fine cream djellabas, businessmen in smart Parisian suits, soldiers and police all dressed in their finest.

Yesterday the King also sent congratulation messages to Muslim heads of state on the occasion of Id Al-mawlid in which he wished them health, happiness, progress and prosperity.

The King said "Such a happy commemoration inspires us through the exemplary conduct of our venerable prophet (PBUH) who embodied most beautifully the lofty and tolerant values of Islam, which call for honoring Mankind."

"By preaching fraternity, justice, and moderation, these ideals favor pacific paths and highlight dialogue, tolerance, co-existence, and interaction among religions and civilizations. They reject, however, extremism, ostracism, violence, and all forms of aggression."

"Brilliantly illustrated by the prophet's conduct," the sovereign went on, "these ideals should remain the beacon that enlightens and unites our Umma. They should also pave the way for strengthened cooperation among the peoples of the Umma (Muslim nations) so that they would substantially contribute to civilization."

As is usual on these occasions, some 566 people were granted royal pardon on Wednesday on the occasion of Id Al-mawlid , including the commutating of the death penalty to life imprisonment for four convicts. The King granted total pardon to four convicts, while 466 inmates had their sentenced reduced. Another 30 convicts had the remaining of their imprisonment terms annulled or reduced and 10 people had their prison terms annulled, with the maintenance of the fine.

The pardon on the imprisonment term and the fine sentences benefited two people, while 50 people had their fine sentences cancelled.

High profile prankster released.

Among those pardoned by King Mohammed VI is Fouad Mourtada, the 27-year-old engineer who spent 43 days in jail for creating a fake Facebook profile of the king’s brother, Crown Prince Moulay Rachid. His release had been expected as Moroccan blogosphere has spearheaded an international campaign against his imprisonment. News of Fouad's release flashed around the world - the story being picked up and run on mainstream news services from CNN to the BBC. "This is a great relief," Reporters Without Borders said in a statement.
And the man himself? "I'm going to continue my life normally. I'm going to rest a bit, and think about my future," Mourtada said. "Above all, I am a computer engineer. It's my career — I like my field."



Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Medina Gossip # 3503

Hot news this week is that His Majesty the King will be in Fez for the Prophet's Birthday. From very good sources we hear that among the guests invited to meet the King are members of the expat community. So startled was one invitee that he thought the entire thing was a hoax. Now we understand he is taking a crash course in royal etiquette and hunting for a suitable outfit to wear.

The guide book update season seems to be in full swing with the much anticipated launch of the Lonely Planet Fez Encounter due at the end of the month. The fab little pocket book will be a real winner with tourists as it not only has a great fold out map of the Medina but some very up to date shopping and eating suggestions.

Meanwhile another guide book publisher needs to have a word about ethics to their intrepid reporter who was caught unashamedly seeking free accommodation on account of writing a guide book. Like "hello!" - that is something you simply don't do. Other publishers expressly forbid their in-country people to even flash their business cards.

Talking of visitors, regular people-watchers will have noticed a familiar face back in Fez. Pippa from Dublin has returned to the Medina where she now owns a house. If her plans progress she will be spending more and more time here.


Her plans at the moment involve returning to Eire, but once her renovation is complete she should be back in the Medina for most of next year. In the meantime Pippa (pictured above with Louis) has been enjoying both the city and the countryside with her friend Louis da Fez. On one of her strolls in the Medina Pippa noticed a cow's nose for sale at a local butcher. No, not the complete head, just the nose. She is keen to find recipes for cow nose - and we would love to hear from you with you serious or otherwise response (Nose Tagine?). Maybe the poor cow should have followed the lead of our strange friend Ilja Gort, a Bordeaux wine maker, who has just has insured his nose for £3.9 million with Lloyd's of London. Ilja is Dutch and the owner of Château de la Garde in Bordeaux where he produces Tulipe Wines., Ilya claims his nose is his most important asset, as a good sense of smell was essential to guarantee the quality of his wines. Just for the record ( and coz you are just longing to know) while the tongue has only five areas of taste, the nose can distinguish millions of different scents, he added. But we digress...

Perhaps the most talked about subject in the Medina is the success of Cafe Clock. Mike and his team continue to impress with their hospitality, great food and amazing range of activities. On the day our spy was there the library was in constant use, a Moroccan language class was in full swing, fine art graced the walls and a constant flow of people - local and from around the globe - traipsed up and down the stairs.

Up until now the cafe has been closed on Mondays, but rumour has it that with the advent of the high tourist season that will change. Being closed on Mondays may make sense for the mental health the Cafe Clock team - but we feel sure that they will find a way to cater to the demands of their eager patrons for Clockability on Mondays!

Several people have mentioned that the wonderful rooftop concerts are a real winner - and they are right with one caveat. Sooner or later the cafe will need to install a small sound system so that patrons who have paid for a concert and can't fit on the roof can also enjoy the music. Speakers inside the cafe would be a simple and quick way to fix this. On the day we attended a concert the vocal music was easy to hear but even on the terrace simple guitar work was inaudible.

In the tourist area there is a change taking place - several old shops have been replaced by pretty upmarket establishments including the loss of a traditional bakery in Derb el Hora which now sells reasonable quality interior décor items including lamps and various artefacts. This is a sure sign of things to come and (as one local wit put it) how long until we find a 24/7 convenience store opening in one of the Tala'as?

Also coming along is the work on the Jnan Sbil Gardens. The layout and fountains all seem complete so it is just a matter of time before they will be officially opened. And then, in the new city, the plans are out for a "city centre" development including and convention centre - times are a changing...

Music happenings....

Famous Lebanese singer Walid Tawfiq has received an invitation from the Moroccan Free Musician Union to attend a festival at in Dar Al Bayda (Casablanca). According to our music spy the musician will perform on March 27, 28, and 29 and Walid will be honored at the celebration. A number of music artists from across the Arab world will attend.

Four concerts in Fez will bring a very different type of music to the Medina. On the weekend of May 24/25 Bernard Carney will perform a major concert Riad Zany on the Saturday and will follow up with a smaller event at Cafe Clock on the Sunday.

"Bernard Carney is a great all-round musician in the tradition of the folk troubadour. He has a unique talent as songwriter, guitarist and singer all peppered with passion and humour."
Port Fairy Festival Director Jamie McKew when presenting Bernard with the prestigious Artist of the Year award at Port Fairy Festival
“Songs of love and memory are bitter-sweet explorations of human emotion sung with a kind of melodic elegance that is the hall mark of a good song.” Ron Banks West Australian newspaper review.

On May 30/June 1 Cloudstreet (the renowned Australian folk duo) will perform at Riad Zany along with singer songwriter Rebecca Wright. On the Sunday they will perform at Cafe Clock.
Cloudstreet perform hot harmonies & beautiful ballads. This will be their second trip to Fez as guests of The View from Fez. On their last trip they were impressed by the acoustic quality inside the riad and so are very happy to be returning after a highly successful tour in the UK


John and Nicole's performances (pictured above) are packed with vitality, humour and excitement, as they breathe new life into some of the great songs of the Australian, English and Celtic traditions and carry the tradition forward with original songs and tunes. Driving guitar and Irish flute support their enthralling vocals. Their trademark dazzling harmonies and their impassioned presentation are leavened with humour and great tales from their travels. Cloudstreet makes their audience feel that they are the privileged viewers of something very special.

Rebecca Wright (pictured above) will perform with Cloudstreet as well as presenting some of her own superbly crafted songs. Freshly revealing, bright and beautiful... Rebecca’s songs will stir your heart. Her deftly exquisite arrangements of voice and acoustic guitar, and graceful, grounded performances captivate her audiences and weave connections among people.

More news of this nearer the time. But if you would like an invitation to any of the concerts please send us an email ( see address below) with the name of the artists in the subject line.

China to build Moroccan Roads.

Asia's biggest construction company, China Railway Group, has won a $257 million contract to build two highways in Morocco. According to a statement to the Shanghai Stock Exchange, the projects will take 30 months to complete. No starting date has been announced.

And while we are talking about business and investment....


Who are these people? Well, according to our sources, the photograph is from a business forum held last year. So why are we telling you this? Because our usually reliable informants say that the Morocco Business Forum will hold its second meeting in Fez between May 8th and 10th. We will bring you more information on that as it comes to hand. One thing we can tell you is that the American Ambassador will be attending.

All the goss that's fit to print - if you have a story for The View from Fez - email us. fes.riad@gmail.com

Medina Gossip #3502

Medina Gossip #2307

All the goss that's fit to print - if you have a story for The View from Fez - email us. fes.riad@gmail.com

Photo credits: Cloudstreet and Rebecca Wright, Louis & Pippa: Sandy McCutcheon


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

An amazing house in Morocco

There are scores of stories about expats buying and restoring houses in Morocco. The most ambitious ones to date have been in Fez where the focus on traditional craftsmanship has been generally superb.



However today we have a story about a couple who went deep into the countryside and built a house from scratch. Not a modern bricks and mortar construction, but traditional adobe. And it is stunning!

"Près du Puits" is French for "Near the Well"... That well is somewhere near Fez, Morocco, and a French couple Fred and Maria have built their adobe house with its water.

Frédéric Calmès

Fred will be remembered by regular readers of The View from Fez as the extremely talented musician who performs with the Hamadcha Sufi Brotherhood.

In their blog they have begun to post photographs, recipes, and stories about their life in the country. It is certainly worth a visit. You will find it here: Près du Puits

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Transport strike causes food shortages.

This week more than 1,000 lorries stopped transporting goods in several Moroccan cities during a four-day strike, causing shortages and price hikes for fruit and vegetables. Two lorry drivers were arrested in Sale near the capital Rabat on charges of disturbing the public order, according to the newspaper Annahar al- Maghribiya.

The strike was called by several leftist trade unions close to the opposition. It was opposed by a union close to the governing party Istiqlal, which mobilized more trucks for transport.

The strikers called for negotiations with the Transport Ministry, complaining of "repression" against transporters opposing stricter regulations on working hours, insurance payments and the like.

The strike was due to end today(Friday). Fortunately for the Fez Medina prices appear to have remained stable.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fes Festival of World Sacred Music - 2008 Overview

The 14th Fes Festival of World Sacred Music takes place this year from 6 to 14 June in the ancient city of Fes (Fez), Morocco. This year celebrating the 1,200th anniversary of its founding, Fes has become a global music destination since the start of the festival following the first Gulf War. The Fes Festival lures both musicians seeking fresh ideas and renewed inspiration as well as international music lovers, many of whom return year after year. VIP guests last year included members of the Irish supergroup U2, composer Osvaldo Golijov, and Queen Rania of Jordan.

Visitors can expect a magical experience, because 2008 looks set to be outstanding – with a spectacular international line-up devised by Artistic Director Gerard Kurdjian. It reflects diverse forms of musical creativity – from grass roots folk music to popular entertainment to the formal European classical traditions. The theme of this year’s festival is Paths to Creation.

The star of the opening night concert in the magnificent setting of the Bab Makina palace courtyard, is the American diva Jessye Norman, who will sing with the Avignon Lyric Orchestra conducted by Rachael Worby. Jessye Norman is one of the undisputed greats of the operatic world. She has sung all the major soprano roles and is especially acclaimed for her performances of Verdi’s Aida.

There will be two dazzling dance performances at the Bab Makina later in the week – flamenco from Spain’s Belen Maya and traditional sacred dances from Indonesia featuring The Panti Pusaka Budaya Ensemble.

2008 also sees the return to the Fes Festival of the Sufi master musician Julian Weiss with the Al-Kindi Ensemble featuring guest a vocalist Sheikh Hamza Shakour from Damascus. In collaboration with The Byzantine Tropos Choir from Athens, they will premiere a Christian and Muslim homage to the Virgin Mary in the form of a Stabat Mater Dolorosa.

More intimate afternoon concerts take place beneath a giant Barbary oak in the Andalusian gardens of the Batha Museum. This year’s program includes Mari Boine from Norway performing Sami sacred songs from the Scandinavian far north and Thanh Huong singing Vietnamese traditional sacred songs. /more2

European classical sacred music comes from Cantus Coln from Germany and Madhup Mughal from India offers a programme of devotional songs from the sub continent.

Late night excitement is generated in the medina’s Dar Tazi gardens where Moroccan Sufi brotherhoods entrance audiences with ecstatic music into the wee small hours. And in the Place Boujloud the people of Fes gather at dusk for the Festival in the City series of free concerts.

This year the Fes Rencontre forum brings academics, philosophers, politicians and priests together to examine the role of the sacred in modern life. Mohammed Sarwar, the UK’s first Muslim MP, will be among the speakers.

Last year U2 spent time in Fes during the festival, writing and rehearsing their new album, set to be released this October. They have since spoken passionately about the transformational experience they discovered at the festival. “Fes is a holy place for musicians “says Bono, humanitarian activist and singer with the group, “we came to pay tribute and to learn. We are on a pilgrimage”.

Bono’s perspective is shared by Sir Nicholas Pearson, Chairman of The Temenos Academy: “Fes and its sacred music festival has a unique opportunity to become the place where Islam meets the West in open and fair-minded dialogue,” he says. “It is for this reason I believe Fes should become a place of pilgrimage for people of goodwill from all religions. We should come to Fes to resolve our differences and celebrate our common humanity. “

See the full program here: The 14th Fes Festival of World Sacred Music

Ticket collection service here: Ticket Collection

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

The latest airline news from Morocco.

Morocco gets a new Boeing 737-800 aircraft

Morocco’s Royal Air Maroc (RAM) has taken delivery of a new generation Boeing 737-800 aircraft, the second such aircraft the state-owned airline has received this year. The acquisition of the aircraft is part of the RAM’s programme to "beef up and modernise its fleet.",

In 2007, RAM took delivery of two new generation Boeing 737 and another one in February 2008. It also plans to receive another Boeing 737-800 in October 2008. The airline said the purchases showed its determination to consolidate its policy to expand and modernise its fleet to support the development and diversification of its international network. In November 2005, RAM and manufacturer Boeing signed a contract for the acquisition of five latest long-haul planes for a total cost of US$ 650 million.

Jet4you to serve 8 weekly flights between Morocco, Belgium

Low-cost airline company Jet4you will serve eight weekly flights as of May 24 between Morocco and Belgium, Chairman Jawad Ziat announced this week.

Speaking to the press to present the company's results in the last 27 months, Mr. Ziat noted that the Jet4you fleet will be bolstered by a new aircraft to meet the customers’ growing need.

Mr. Ziat recalled that the Brussels-Charleroi route towards Morocco has witnessed a 54% rise with the launch of Jet4you, that is an additional passenger number between 150,000 and 245,000.

According to Jet4you head, the company has served some 500,000 passengers in 4,000 flights in 2006 with an 80% occupation rate.

Since its inauguration flight on February 26, the company serviced 679 flights linking the cities of Marrakech, Fès and Agadir to Paris-Orly, and Marrakech to Nantes and Bordeaux, the company chairman highlighted, adding that up to September 30, the company flew some 92,255 passengers, reaching a 79% seat fill capacity and a 72% punctuality rate.

The airline projects to transport 160,000 passengers in the first year of its operation before reaching 900,000 in 2008 and 1.7 million in 2010.

The company’s euro 5.5Mn capital is owned at 40% by tourism word leader and 5th European carrier TIU group, and at 60% by Moroccan shareholders.

The company was created in the wake of the "Open Sky" agreement signed recently by Morocco and the European Union to liberalize the sector in Morocco.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Morocco for dummies?

You can imagine the excitement in The View from Fez office when Tigga discovered this little gem:

People who purchase property for sale in Morocco will be able to enjoy low living costs, new research has revealed. According to a study by Teletext Holidays, food and drink in the north African country costs much less than in most of Europe.

Figures showed that on average, a pint of beer can be purchased for just 51p, while a three-course meal is priced at just over £10. By contrast, a beverage in Spain would cost £1.56 on average and a meal would set people back about £17.50. This may be one reason for the growing popularity of Morocco among holidaymakers and second home buyers.

Commenting on the findings, Ash Makkar of Teletext Holidays said: "Interest in countries such as Morocco has grown significantly." He added that this showed that people were becoming more adventurous when choosing where to go on holiday.

Official figures recently revealed that during 2007, Morocco attracted more than seven million foreign leisure travellers.

Breaking news provided by Real Estate TV

You can imagine our excitement! So we took bets as to how such a story could come into existence and why any self-respecting sub-editor or even lowly journalist would bother.

Helen Ranger said it was a slow news day and the sub-editor made it up. Amal argued that it was from the pen of a work experience student and accidentally got into the "publish pile". Mouanis reckoned that the price of beer was not a good enough inducement to come to a Moslem country. Sandy sat in the corner and pondered the motivation for even doing such "research". And we all wanted to know how one took a "teletext holiday" - the general consensus was "by turning off the television".

In any case the good folk at the Real Estate TV Office need to get out more - there are real stories about why people visit Morocco and why they invest in property. The price of beer compared with Spain is not one of them.

Ps. We thought about providing a link so you could see the "story" for yourself, but decided that you will just have to trust that we didn't make it up!

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez Sacred Music festival - Higlight #1

Between now and the opening of the Fes Sacred Music Festival 2008 we will bring you background information on some of the stand-out performers. Top of the list is Mari Boine - whose voice has to be heard to be believed. She is performing Sunday 8 June at the Batha Museum 16:30 in a program called Sacred Songs of Scandinavian Far North.



Mari Boine Persen is a Norwegian Sami musician known for having added jazz and rock to the yoiks of her native people. Boine (born 8 November 1956 in Finnmark, Norway) grew up amid the Laestadian Christian movement as well as amidst discrimination against her people. She was asked to perform at the 1994 Winter Olympics in Lillehammer, but refused because she perceived the invitation as an attempt to bring a token minority to the ceremonies. Gula Gula - Hear the voice of the tribe's Mother 1989, (Real World) was her breakthrough release, and she continued to record popular albums throughout the 1990s.

Mari Boine's music is dominated by her strong and urgent voice, plus a few carefully selected instruments from people all over the world, notably the native South Americans, chosen in part due to their history of even harsher colonization. Most distinctive is her drum. She uses an African drum, but the combination of drum and voice goes back to ancient Sami culture and pre-Christian shamanism.

"The colonizers brought Christianity and told the Sami they had to forget their primitive religion - and music was part of that religion. A lot of people of my parent's generation don't accept the music, they say it's devil's music and what you sing when you're drunk - the colonizers also brought alcohol. When I started to use a drum some people got worried and said, 'Is she a Shaman?' So I decided I couldn't use a Sami drum."

"I think your voice is a mirror of your soul and how you feel inside. When I began I was singing pop songs and ballads and didn't sing from the heart. Over the last ten years I've been fighting this feeling of being inferior to Norwegian or western people and my voice got stronger as I decided I wouldn't let anyone oppress me and that I have a value as Sami. Western culture makes a distance between you and your body or heart. In Sami culture you think of everything as a whole."

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

EasyJet flights to Fez..

We are in debt to one of our regular readers for the following observation. Thank you!

I think Easyjet will be flying to Fez from April 08 onwards ,their internet site is not showing the destination yet. This I found on Easyjet site today:

Advice for customers travelling from 30 March 2008 to/from Gatwick and Manchester

From March 30 EasyJet plans to fly the published BA/GB Airways 2008 summer schedule under the EasyJet brand.

On completion of the purchase of GB Airways by easyJet, customers who hold a BA/GB booking involving any travel from 30 March 2008 to the destinations below will travel on an EasyJet flight. Alternatively they can claim a refund. Further details will be provided by EasyJet once the purchase is finalised.

Fez Marrakech Tunis Sharm el Sheikh Hurghada
Rhodes Corfu Paphos Mykonos Heraklion
Montpellier Nantes Bastia Ajaccio Dalaman
Palma Ibiza Menorca Malaga Alicante
Tenerife Las Palmas Arrecife Faro Funchal
Malta Innsbruck Salzburg

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Taxis in Fez

After several years of living in Fez, Helen Ranger has a well-used mantra that she mutters to herself when travelling in a petit taxi. In addition to the usual bismillah that begins every journey, this has proved remarkably useful.

Last week she found herself deposited at school after a hair-raising journey, knuckles white, breath fast and heart pounding. This particular driver had honked madly as lights went green, swerved and lane-hopped, and screeched all the way up the hill to the new city.

But there are some very good stories about taxis, too.

John and Louise Lubbe of Pretoria had a wonderful Moroccan holiday last year, and after a week in Fez during which their son Rean also joined them from London, sadly left (this time in a much more sedate grand taxi).

John says - 'When we left Fes last September (on the first day of Ramadan) Louise's cell phone fell out of her bag in the taxi that took us to Rabat. Afterwards we left a voice message with a friend's number as reference. We were very impressed (and a bit surprised) that the taxi driver actually phoned from Fes the next day (he found the cell phone when he cleaned out the interior of the taxi) and we arranged with him to return the phone to Rean (they met at Bab Boujloud). The man's name is Mohamed and his cell number is 0613236373 if you would ever like to refer visitors to a very nice, gentle, honest man (he speaks English fluently)! (He also took us to Meknes and Volubilis and is a very quiet and kind fellow).'

Erich Groat, medina resident, has another heart-warming story that this time relates to a petit taxi:

'Last October I took a petit taxi from the old medina to the Ville Nouvelle, getting off at a corner by the grand taxi stop (next to the unmentionable McDonald's). I was wearing a pair of trousers with badly designed pockets that tend quietly to eject their contents whenever one's knees end up higher than one's hips; such was my position in the front seat of the cab, as I'm a slightly tall person. I paid the driver -- a middle-aged fellow playing a ratty cassette of intriguing old Arabic pop songs as we drove -- with a ten dirham coin that was in the process of being ejected from my pocket. I said my goodbyes and closed the door, and found myself quite instinctively patting my pockets. Lo and behold, my wallet was missing... I knew that I'd had it when entering the cab, as I was checking it for small bills in case I didn't have any coins (paying with large bills can be quite an affair here).

Of course, that wallet, containing a not insignificant sum of large bills, was being motored away before my very eyes. Standard scenario: lots of cash (about 150 Euros and 500 dirhams), credit card, bank card, personal cards, phone numbers, a photo of my cat, etc. Rats!

There were other taxis nearby, so I rushed to one of them and asked if the driver if he knew that taxi. He didn't. Was there a central number I could call? Not that he knew of. He recommended, to my surprise (assuming my awkward French and broken Arabic were getting this right at all), that I stay at the corner where I'd been dropped off: if the taxi driver were honest, he said, he'd look for me there the next time he drove by, should he happen to. I was sceptical, but it was nearing the hour of the mid-day meal, when many drivers head home; perhaps I'd be lucky? For nearly an hour I stood on the corner, eagerly eying every taxi that came by, many of which stopped in disappointed hope of more business...

And, lo and behold again, my driver returned, pulled over, grinning madly, and waved my wallet at me through the passenger side window. After my innumerable thanks in several languages, he asked if I needed to go anywhere, and I said yes, back to the Medina, eager to continue thanking him over the warbly pop music. Though I had nothing but big bills to offer him for fare, I of course gave him one and insisted that he keep the change, but Moroccans will always be far better bargainers than I, and my offer was resolutely rejected. I went home a happy man, and changed my pants.



Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Al Jazeera interviews Fatima Sadiqi

Fatima Sadiqi

Morocco's King, Mohammed VI, introduced sweeping reforms across the country in 2004 which were designed to eradicate discrimination - he ushered in new laws on equality, divorce rights and on polygamy.

Shiulie Ghosh of Al Jazeera English TV interviewed Fatima Sadiqi on Women's Day to explore the repercussions of these reforms. Fatima is Professor of Linguistics and Gender Studies at the University of Fez, as well as Director General of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music. She commented that 'family law is no longer just a women's thing, but social'.

This is an interesting interview that includes coverage of the tribulations of single mothers in Casablanca who are supported by one of the few organisations available to help them, Feminine Solidarity.

See the interview - Everywoman - Family Law changes in Morocco -

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

King Mohammed VI promotes sport in Fez

On Monday Fez was abuzz with royal activities -and amid the flags and crowds - King Mohammed VI launched USD 4.5Mn projects to promote sport as part of the large-scale anti-poverty program "National Initiative for Human Development" (INDH).

The first project provides for building four multi-sport halls which will encompass multi-sport playgrounds, locker rooms, health centers and bleachers of 500 places, while the second project provides for building a sports complex, which will comprise a soccer stadium, two basket ball courts, two handball courts, a multi-sport indoor hall, an athletics track and locker rooms.

Musicians entertain the crowds hoping to catch a glimpse of the King

Since 2005, 173 projects have been carried out in Fez out of the 316 projects scheduled as part of INDH, with investments estimated at USD 30.5Mn.

Morocco has earmarked USD 382Mn to implement the 2008 INDH action plan, which includes 5,172 projects, according to figures revealed at the second meeting of the INDH steering committee.

Announced by king Mohammed VI in May, 2005, the INDH is designed to eradicate poverty, marginalization and social exclusion by providing basic infrastructures, adequate housing, drinking water, health care and education.

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fez Festival Ticket Collection Service

One of the most annoying things about arriving in Fez for the Sacred Music Festival is having the hassle of finding and getting to where you can pick up your tickets. Unfortunately even the taxi drivers experience problems finding the location of the ticket office and if you have just been travelling from overseas the last thing you probably need is to go hunting around Fez for your tickets. Thankfully after the problems last year a solution has been found in the form of the Fes Festival Ticket Collection Service. Here is what they can do to make life easier

For those attending the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music (6-14 June 2008), we offer a ticket collection service. Once you've ordered and paid for your tickets through the ticketing agency, Objectif Maroc, send us your invoice number and we will collect your tickets and deliver them to your guesthouse in time for your arrival. The charge is Dh300 (approximately 27 Euros) per set of tickets per person or group.

To find out more about this great service visit FES FESTIVAL TICKET COLLECTION

Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fes Festival of World Sacred Music - update

The 14th annual Fes Festival of World Sacred Music will take place between 6 to 14 June 2008. The latest updated program is below.

Friday 6 June Opening Night

Bab Makina 20:30

Jessye Norman (USA), with the Regional Lyric Orchestra Avignon Provence (France). Conducting: Rachael Worby (USA)

Saturday 7 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Ghada Shbéïr (Lebanon) Songs of the Eastern Christian Churches

Bab Makina 20:30

Night of Sacred African American and Sufi Songs Night

Spiritual/Hymns/Qawwali/Gospel

Faiz Ali Faiz (Pakistan) ensemble with and Bernice Johnson Reagon and the Sacred Sound Ensemble (USA)

Sunday 8 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Mari Boine (Norway) Sacred Songs of Scandinavian Far North

Bab Makina 20:30

Al Kindi ensemble with Sheikh Hamza Shakour, the Munshid of the Great Umayyad Mosque and the Choir of Greece - Dir. JJ Weiss (Syria/Greece/France)

Stabat Mater Dolorosa - Christian and Muslim Homage to Mary

Monday 9 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Thanh Huong (Vietnam) Traditional and sacred songs

Bab Makina 20:30

Belen Maya Company (Spain) Dibujo Flamenco dance


Tuesday 10 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Tartit Women's Ensemble (Mali) Folk and sacred songs of the Tuareg

Bab Makina 20:30

Panti Pusaka Budaya Ensemble Sacred Traditional Dances of Bali / Indonesia


Wednesday 11 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Ysaÿe Quartet (France) The Seven Last Words of Christ (J. Haydn) Text: Michel Serres – Narrator: Michael Lonsdale


Thursday 12 June

Batha Museum 16:30

The Roza Enflorese (Belgium) Sephardic sacred and traditional songs

Bab Makina 20:30

Abdelwahab Doukali (Morocco)


Friday 13 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Cantus Colln (Germany) Around JS Bach/Spiritual Paths (Buxtehude - J. Rosenmüller - JS Bach) Director: Konrad Junghanel

Bab Makina 20:30

Mohamed Abdou (Saudi Arabia)


Saturday 14 June

Batha Museum 16:30

Madhup Mudghal (India) Bakhti devotional songs

Bab Makina 20:30

Ismael Lô (Senegal) with the Brotherhood Hamadcha of Fez (Morocco) From Dakar to Fez: from heart to soul


ADDITIONAL EVENTS

Photographic Exhibition: The Earthen Mosques of Mali – Christian Schuytiser
Film: Latcho Drom by Tony Gatliff (on gypsies from Rajasthan to Andalusia – premiered at the Cannes Festival)

A reminder: A ticket collection service is suggested if you are arriving from outside Morocco. Find out here: Ticket Collection Service


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

Fim Festival in Morocco - in Tetouan!

Tetouan hosts the 14th Mediterranean Film Festival

From 29 March to 4 April, Tetouan will host the 14th Tetouan International Mediterranean Film Festival which, since its inception in 1985, has continued to actively promote Mediterranean cinema. The creation of the Tetouan International Mediterranean Film Festival Foundation in 2006, headed by the Minister for Communications, was aimed precisely at ensuring the continuation of the festival.

In 7 days of screenings at 5 different venues, almost 100 films from Mediterranean countries will be shown, together with 10 feature films, 15 short films and 10 documentaries which will be in competition. More than 10 countries will be represented, 200 special guests are invited and 50,000 spectators are expected.

This year, the Festival will have a special focus on Tunisian cinema and the 3 Continents Festival of Nantes. They will be the special guests of honour, with a retrospective that will look at films produced over the last 20 years.

Festival events will also be open to the public at large, including those scheduled as part of the “Special Youth” programme. Two round-table discussions will be held which will examine synergies between film exhibition, distribution and festivals, as well as the link between cinema and literature.

With the aim of supporting and paying tribute to Moroccan writers, this year’s Festival will see the launch of a special section which will enable the general public to interact with film-makers and writers. Moroccan novelists and writers will participate in a round-table discussion and provide their contribution to the debate on literature and the possibilities for film adaptations of the literary works presented in this section, which works will - at the same time - be brought to international attention.


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news

"Prince of Persia" to be filmed in Morocco

British film director Mike Newell (pictured above) will shoot his next film 'Prince of Persia: The Sands of Time' in Morocco, Morocco's Dune Films company said Wednesday.

Based on a popular video game, the preparation for the film is well under way. The script has been worked on for over 18 months and we understand that scouting and casting will begin on March 17.

Newell has directed a string of hits, including 'Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire', 'Donnie Brasco' and 'Four Weddings and a Funeral'.

Go here to see a movie update: Prince of Persia


Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news