A foreigner in Fès

So what attracts a foreigner to Fès?

It is interesting to see the way so many British, French, Italian, German and Americans have invested in riads and dars in Marrakech, Casablanca and Tangier - but not in Fès. Whereas the numbers in the other cities would probably run into the hundreds, there are only a handful (probably no more than 10 couples) who have chosen to buy a riad or dar in the Fès el Bali.

Of course there are some others who have bought property but don't intend to live there. Those who live there know each other and are a very friendly bunch of people with a shared philosophy of conservation/renovation - restoring without destroying the cultural heritage.

My friend Alaa has purchased a 600 year old dar and over two years turned it into the most amazing private fonduq (hotel). He and his partner live in and in their spare time assist others who are restoring old houses.

I was first attracted to Fès because so few others were. There appeared to be a reluctance to venture deep into the medina. It was considered scary, hard to navigate and really "not suitable" for foreigners.

Sure, the 9500 twisting lanes and alleys feel like they have been constructed by a psychotic spider trying to thread a way through the houses that are stacked one on another like the work of cubist termites! But that's the challenge. Fès is mysterious. Fès is exciting - and the people are warm and welcoming.

The most common sight of a tourist is a pale faced individual or couple, clasping their Lonely Planet guide and asking for directions. But getting lost is half the fun. Next time you are in Fès, throw away the guide book and plunge in. Of course you can stick to the Tala'a Kbira or the Tala'a Sghira... but off to the side... down that narrow twisting alley...

It took me several visits before I could find my way around, but even when I got lost, I was rewarded by stumbling on some beautiful architecture, a glimpse of a fountain I had never seen before or a small hole-in-the-wall cafe that served great snail soup or brilliant coffee.

When we found Riad Zany (formerly Riad el Glaoui) we found a home. We found good neighbours, a wonderful community, great souq and a house that we can share with friends from all around the world. No, we are not turning it into a hotel or trying to make money from it. But it is a home were we can live and write our novels and then venture out into a city that every day presents us with new adventures.

You should try it.

Tags: Morocco, Fès, travel, Fez,