Walking the Fez Medina

For the adventurous visitor to Fez, who wants to get off the main tourist streets of the Tala'a Kbira and the Tala'a Sghira, there are several interesting options. If you want to play the accidental tourist, simply turn right off the Tala'a Sghira and trust that you will eventually find your way out of the Medina (insh'Allah!). However, if you like something a little more structured you will find signposted walks with blue and red markers and most of the tourist hotels will give you information about these.


The other alternative, and in my opinion, the best, is to purchase a copy of the book Fez from Bab to Bab: Walks in the Medina by Hammad Berrada; if you can't find it in English, get Fes de Bab en Bab: Promenades dans la Medina.. (Fez from gate to gate). If you find it hard to get simply grab a taxi and go to the American Language Centre (The Arabic Language Institute in Fez, B.P. 2136, Fez 30000, Morocco. Tel: (212/55) 62 48 50 Fax: (212/55) 93 16 08 Email: info@alif-fes.com). The book has possibly the best map of the medina and smaller maps of 11 individual walks.

The walks described vary in length and complexity, but they are certain to take you places that are well off the tourist routes and you will discover aspects of Fez that are known only to the locals. Most of the walks are between two or three hours but can be adapted and shortened at will. The fabulous thing about the book is that in order to navigate you have to actually look at where you are and identify landmarks and buildings that you might otherwise walk past without getting to learn something about them. All walks end at points where you can get a taxi back to your starting point.

My favourite walk : From Batha Square to Bab Rcif via Qettanine and Rhabt Zbib. This is a two and a half hour walk and along the way you will discover the beautiful Dar Adiyel, now wonderfully restored, built by an 18th century noble who is probably the builder of the famous Nejjarine fountain. There are many other notable sights but the Cherratene Medersa (1670), is a standout. This is an Alaouite medersa. Ras Cherratene is a busy street and you can easily get distracted. Let it happen! Down the side streets you will find horn and wood-handle knives being made (Sekkakine Lane). At about this point you may be getting hungry and you will find a great little snack shop at Bab Sensla... and so it goes. Best of all you will have a feeling of great a pride at having navigated part of the medina without a guide.


Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news