As in previous festivals, the free admission to the late night Sufi events has drawn huge crowds. Imagine a mosh-pit at a rock concert, but set it against the backdrop of some amazing Moroccan architecture in a picturesque palace garden. Yet the entrance of the brotherhoods are often led by children, who in most other cultures would have been long tucked up in bed!
The evenings are not for the faint-hearted, just getting a good view requires the skills of a rugby scrumhalf. Then there is the sheer volume of sound to be contended with and the heat of the bodies packed like sardines into the small spaces available. Yet once the rhythms gets you, nothing else matters. On Tuesday night even the police and security folks in the entrance lane were swaying and clapping, their faces wreathed in smiles.
The week started well with 17th century sounds of the Casablanca based Tariqa Darqawiya – Abdelmajid Souiri with wonderful Sama’ and Madih. Sunday saw the arrival of the first group from Fès – Tariqa Qadiriya whose spiritual practice to purify the ego is distinguished by a capella performance with, at times, ad lib lyrics.
On Monday the exponents of Malhoun (an elaborate form of Arabic verse) took to the stage in the form of the Fassi group. Tuesday’s performance by another Fassi Sufi brotherhood - the Tariqa Assaouia – was a full on blast of trumpets, percussion and voice that reached out far beyond the confines of the Dar Tazi and could be heard from streets away. The claim that the music has therapeutic effects and produces a trance state was soon evident. Glazed eyes and beatific smiles abounded. As they say, you had to be there.
The Sufi nights continue this week at the Dar Tazi starting at 11pm and going until very late. Get there early and take plenty of water to drink.
ALL PHOTOGRAPHS COPYRIGHT SUZANNA CLARKE 2006
Tags: Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
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