Louis Fes has been visiting Chefchaouen with Aussi-Pete and Karen. Here he records his adventures exclusively for The View from Fez
After a few frantic weeks away from the equally frenetic Medina, it was with some relief on my return that the Eid holiday came around, guaranteeing a mass exodus of workmen, tools dropping in their wake as they rushed home with their Eid bonus. So no work, time to play, they say - or I do anyway.
With the smell of burnt mutton; singed horns et al still in our nostrils and the sight of piles of grubby, hastily washed sheepskins lying in listless heaps on street corners assaulting our delicate senses, (only joking) - we are hardy souls really - three intrepid explorers left Fes.
Who were said intrepids? Well, myself for one, and two fellow game-for-a-laugh characters in Aussie Pete and Karen. We were off for a few days to Chefchaouen. Why? Because it's there and it had left a great impression on me from my last fleeting visit.
The scenic, leisurely drive up at a modest 70 kms an hour gave us time to de-Fes ourselves and absorb the constantly changing scenery, until we emerged in that blue-rinsed hilltop town. So first things first, must get a room. Not difficult, I hear you say. Well, it wouldn't have been if AP and K hadn't left their passports in Fes. So there we were in real festive mode a la Joseph searching for an inn. At least Joseph rustled up a stable and a manger for his family, but for Pete and Karen it was more than likely to be the back seat of a Peugeot 206, as all pensions require passport details before you can get the key.
After two hours up and down the Medina we ended up at the Hotel Barcelona, which is not as swanky as it sounds - but at least they let us in with just me showing my passport. Consisting of two beds and a light bulb, we couldn't really complain at 80 dh each a night, even though it was only two metres from reception, with a steady stream of disorientated backpacking persons of dubious nature passing through 'til midnight.
After Fes it was difficult to adjust to the different pace of Chaouen, which is really almost in reverse let alone first gear. A lot to do with the kif, of course, openly smoked around town. But travelers that we are, within ten minutes we were mucho tranquilloed (not through the kif, I might add) and ready to explore.
This is when the characters started to emerge, as if in an unfolding play before our eyes. There was Archie, the single-toothed carpet seller with an infectious giggly laugh, to whom we would return time and again on buying trips and for advice on houses in the area. There was Jug-Ears, a strange willowy character who latched onto us, noticeable for his huge sticking-out ears. Not only that, but he used the most flowery English prose in an alarming fashion. You understood every word, but still didn't have a clue what he was talking about. He would then go off on a tangent about cures for his dermatitis and multiple collection of spots!
There was also Mohammed, a slick character if ever we saw one, whom I wouldn't trust with my grandmother. He professed eternal friendship, whilst immediately trebling the price of his wares. He did at least find us an uber-funky apartment for rent, done out Flintstone style - all exposed rough brick and arches and a huge fireplace. Turned out it was half-finished, as three other apartments in same block had been completed exquisitely in tadelkt, making great use of a funky Andalucian stlye within a small space. This was so anti-Fes with its emphasis on zellij and fancy stucco plaster etc. Here you could let your imagine run riot with colour and shape.
We found ourselves enthralled with the town, as there was almost an ice-sculpture feel to the streets. The layers of washed-out blue pigment gave the whole place a surreal and magical atmosphere, especially at night around the main square. The laidback, friendly shop people and the shy inquisitive kids didn't show the harder edge that the Fassis sometimes have, with their ruthless business or streetwise smarts, so it was refreshing and relaxing to be in their world.
Archie took us under his wing for the remainder of our trip, guiding us in the Chaouen way of life. He also took us on a house hunt. ( Well you have to look, don't you.) That was a real eye opener, but another story to be continued on our next visit.
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1 comment:
One of my all time favorite cities...!
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