Monday, May 07, 2007

Visiting Moulay Idriss



The small, hilltop town of Moulay Idriss is only about five kilometres from Volubilis. It is one of Morocco's most visited pilgrimage sites and until last year was the only town where non-Muslims were unable to stay the night. Most guide books will tell you that there is no accommodation, but this has changed and there are now a couple of small guest houses.

Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss

If you have a choice of the day you visit, pick Saturday as it is market day and the place really comes to life.

Your first stop should be the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss, and when you come to the barrier that marks the limit of non-Muslim visits, take the stairs to your left and climb through the winding streets to the summit of the town. Local guides are very friendly and full of good information. They will charge you between 30 and forty dirhams to show you the way. Beware it is a bit of a hike but there is a shortcut down again - only 200 (steep) steps! Faisal, who showed us around, is a friend of Louis Da Fez and so charged us nothing.

la illah illa Allah - in Kufic and decorative script

On the way up you will pass the only cylindrical minaret in all Morocco. It is worth a photo if you can avoid the tangle of electricity cables and phone lines. The script on the minaret says la illah illa Allah - there is no god but Allah.

Once you are at the top you will be rewarded with a fabulous view looking down on the town, the mausoleum and the mosque.

The view from the top.

Once back in the town, head to the little street below the main square where you will find a great selection of good street food. In season, the spiced broad beans ( ask for - "fool"), are good here.

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