Hidden Gems in the Medina

Lumen has been pounding the streets, searching for hidden gems in the Fez medina that only the locals know about.


One such secret place is Ba Bouchta's Cafe in Sagha Square. The Square itself is definitely worth a visit. Coming down Tala'a Kebira towards the Attarine, take a left before the souqs and head north. This will take you through the Jouteya fresh produce market that rivals the other markets at Boujloud and R'cif. Keep going and you'll happen upon Sagha Square which has one of the most magnificent fonduks in the medina ... fabulous mashrabiya panels around the balconies and even a large set of scales (man-size - Japanese tourists were being weighed when we were there) for weighing fleeces. There's also a fountain with a qobba roof.

Directly opposite the fonduk is a nicely renovated facade and a flight of stone stairs. Follow these up into a poky L-shaped cafe where you'll find Ba Bouchta himself. Remarkably, water is heated in a copper samovar over a wood fire that he encourages with a pair of bellows; sugar comes in cone-form and is hacked off with a sugar hammer; tea is cheap at only Dh2.5. Under the counter are baskets of charcoal and lots of mint. Very dusty umbrellas hang from a cupboard and the zellij-covered columns are pretty grimy.

It's not going to pass any health and safety tests, but is definitely worth a visit for a little local colour. You can sit on low stools at the open windows and check out the happenings in the square below. Around the corner of the 'L' are a lot of really relaxed men sitting on carpets. A TV blinks from the wall, but the men are far too happy to pay much attention to it.




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