Thursday, January 10, 2008

Treasure Trove in the Mellah



Hamid's shop is a veritable treasure trove


Looking for something unusual, a gift perhaps, an art deco lamp or an old set of boules? Venture into the mellah for an hour or so of happy browsing.

One cold day recently, Lumen was admiring the open fireplace at the new Riad Tizwa in Derb Guebbas. 'Yes,' said Richard, 'but I keep burning my fingers on the logs. What I really need is a poker but I don't know where to get one.'
'The mellah is the place,' replied Lumen. 'I've seen sets of fire-irons there'.

And indeed, you can find just about anything. Take a taxi to the royal palace, or park in the carpark opposite the steps up to the palace doors. Around the carpark is a junk market that's worth browsing. There's a lot of rubbish but occasionally you spot something worthwhile. Lumen found some great dinner plates there, as well as a perfectly functioning electric heater at half the price of Marjane's.

Past the entrance to the Jewish cemetery, you'll come across massive gates on the right and inside is a yard surrounded by small shops. There's a lot of junk, and some pretty awful modern furniture. But some of the shops are wonderful Aladdin's caves full of interesting objects, such as Hamid's shop pictured above and below. You can find Moroccan artefacts such as flower water shakers, painted shelves and brass lanterns, even large doors. There are lots of European pieces of furniture, mostly from the 1930s that must have been left behind by the French, even the odd piano or roll-top bureau. You might find a marble-topped cafe table or a wrought-iron Singer sewing-machine table complete with treadle.
There are plenty of chandeliers and lamps, wonderful photographs, old radio sets, glassware, jewellery, silverware and cutlery. Hamid currently has a pair of excellent cedar kitchen dressers with pretty carving. But things don't hang around long - you have to move fast.




If you make large purchases, the shop-owners will gladly arrange for a 'honda' (a small van) to take your precious cargo back to the medina. If you're in the process of restoration, they're also very good about looking after your goods until your house is ready for occupation.

Leaving the yard, there are one or two similar shops in the road leading back up to the main street. Lumen is seriously considering the turbanned slave holding a lamp (pictured below) ... but will it be there tomorrow?




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