Thursday, August 31, 2006

Berber pottery and Moroccan zellij


The on-line Columbian from Washington State in the USA has an interesting and well-informed article by Jenna Eckert and Abdul Akdi about Berber pottery and also zellij ( they transliterate it as "zellige"). Here is an excerpt.

Quite different in appearance from their glazed, city produced cousins, decorated Saharan and Berber terracotta ware has a rough, unfinished, utilitarian feel, with marked similarities to that of ancient Greece and Carthage. Practiced primarily by Berber women using the hand-coiling technique, there are regions where Berber men, using a lathe as a wheel, also produce pottery. The difference lies in the fact that pots made by women are mainly for use by the family, and those made by men are transported for sale in the city souks.

While not as commonly seen throughout Morocco, Berber pottery is sought by collectors worldwide and perhaps used more often in home decor magazines for their striking tribal, historic appearance.


Sometime during the 8th and 9th centuries, the use of glazed and enameled earthenware arrived in Morocco. Mostly used for culinary and tableware use, it became an urban tradition practiced exclusively by men. The craft and technique continued to grow in the city centers, however it was in the 15th century when the craft of ceramics truly became important in Morocco. Moors skilled in pottery fled Spain for Morocco, settling in Fez, Meknes, Safi and Marrakech. Here the men rebuilt their kilns and for the next four centuries, Moroccan potters, particularly those in Fez, prospered and produced some of the finest examples of their trade in the Islamic world.

Although there was a decline in the quality and quantity produced in the early 20th century due to industrialization and importation of mass-produced pottery from Europe, during the French Protectorate, many Moroccan potters were sent to Sevres, France to learn new techniques. Both local as well as European markets were quick to support their new work, again revitalizing the craft.

Today, thousands of Moroccan potters pound clay, spin wheels, and shape the myriad bowls, vases, tagines (cooking dishes), roof and mosaic tiles that continue to be made in the country's historic pottery centers. The urban tradition of ceramics -- painted and glazed or enameled ware -- is the exclusive province of men. Traditional Andalusian-inspired, polychrome enameled pottery made in Fez is the most respected in Morocco, and is blue and white, though yellow, green, black and brown glazes are also common. Fez pottery comes in a multitude of shapes and uses and are found in shops throughout the country. In the town of Safi on the Atlantic Ocean are the country's oldest kilns, more than two hundred years old and still in operation. Here, potters produce fanciful, repetitive designs on turquoise, white and cream-colored backgrounds.

In Marrakech where the craft of metal work is also a highly skilled and practiced trade, metal workers solder soft metals on top of ceramic vessels. The result can be a fine filigree harmoniously following the underlying painted pattern, or a more contrasting, striking appearance on solid colored pottery. In recent years this blending of metal on ceramics has become quite popular in home decor settings and exported in large quantities.

The other significant segment of urban ceramic production is in making zillij tiles. Derived from Byzantine and Roman mosaics, zelliges, or wall tiles, are Morocco's great specialty, both in the skill with which they are made and because of the expertise with which they are laid. After preparing the raw clay, it is formed into rectangular slabs that are dried in the sun, coated with a colored glaze and fired. From these tile slabs the unique aspect of making zelliges begins. First, a designer traces intricate patterns on the slabs. Then another specialized artisan uses what looks like a two-sided hammer sharpened on both sides to carefully hand chisel the often thumbnail sized zelliges from the slab pieces.

Fine zellij work (courtesy of Fez Restorations)

Once filed smooth and sorted according to the intended pattern, the zelliges are then taken to the job site and a final artist sets them into elaborate mosaic patterns. In days past or in grand homes, palaces and mosques built today, entire walls can be adorned in this way creating a hypnotic landscape for the visual senses. While not as grand in scale, a trend towards producing home furnishings incorporating the use of zillig tiles has become quite popular. Today you can find tables of all sizes and function, fountains, picture frames, even chairs using this process of mosaic tiling.


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Wednesday, August 30, 2006

Moroccan pilots' wives fund terror cell

Morocco has stepped up security at its airports after discovering that the wives of two pilots at national airline Royal Air Maroc (RAM) had been funding a radical Islamist cell. An Interior Ministry press release said the women have extended financial assistance to Hassan Khattab and other members of the "Ansar Al Mahdi" cell to carry out their terrorist projects. It gave no names for the women and did not say whether they had been arrested or charged.

When the information came to light, an urgent meeting was convened at the Interior Ministry on August 28, attended by various ministry chiefs, Army and other security departments, as well as airport and RAM directors, to asses the security apparatus installed in the airports around the country.

The meeting decided to improve the security system in order to secure the protection of passengers, airplanes and airports.

Morocco gets serious about security

The government announced in early August that it had busted the previously unknown Jammaat Ansar El Mehdi (El Mehdi Support Group) cell, arresting over 40 group members and seizing explosives, propaganda material and laboratory equipment.

It said the group was planning to declare a holy war in the northeast of the country, attack tourist sites and assassinate people who symbolise the state.

The authorities say they have dismantled more than 50 militant cells with more than 2,000 members since May 2003, when the normally peaceful country was shaken by a series of bombings in the economic capital Casablanca that killed 45 people.

The government said the Ansar El Mehdi cell had set up local branches in several Moroccan towns, recruited military personnel able to handle explosives and planned to fund its holy war with bank robberies, hold-ups of money transport convoys and forged bank notes.

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Tuesday, August 29, 2006

Mass tourism in Morocco - the downside.

While the tourist authorities may be over the moon about the advent of cheap flights to Fez, not everyone is convinced it is all sunshine and roses. Our Special Affairs reporter, Helen Ranger, examines the pros and cons.

NIMBY Not in my back yard

So there we were, sipping our sundowners under the citrus trees in the riad courtyard. Mellow conversation turned to Marrakech and how one of us had been there recently, after a gap of some four years. How much it’s changed! The relatively small (after Fez) medina seems to be almost entirely owned by foreigners. These foreigners all have cars. The locals, now that they have jobs provided by the foreigners, are buying cars too. The levels of pollution are growing hugely and it’s hot, little wind, becoming unbearable, another Bangkok in the making? And another thing, said a member of our little circle, where are the artisans? What happened to the group of wrought iron workers at the back of the medina, for example? They’ve gone. Now it’s all just shops, and not such excellent ones. And the foodstalls in Djemaa El Fna. Now they’re all regulated with numbers on the newly paved square, and all look the same, all serve the same food. What is happening?

Let’s take a closer look at these foreigners. Not only in the medina, but also in the vast swathes of palm groves outside the city where they live in mansions with swimming pools and servants. They don’t seem to integrate into the Moroccan way of life. They come into town only when they need to feed at a fancy French restaurant, and there are plenty of those. But it’s good to have nice places to go in the evening and it’s good for tourism, good for the city and good for Morocco.

What about the tourists? What kind of tourists do they have in Marrakech? I’ve heard that it’s really popular these days for pre-nuptial celebrations. They used to be called stag parties, held in the local pub on a Friday night, when the groom got a bit drunk before being tied down for ever. These days they start on Tuesday and end on Friday and the groom and his friends fly off in order to get seriously paralytic over a period of days. I’m not quite sure why. I’ve also heard that Marrakech is good for the girls too, especially those wanting a bit of fun in the sun with some dark-eyed handsome Arabs (or Berbers, anything will do). And of course, in Marrakech there’s plenty of action for anyone of any other persuasion too.

So there we were, sipping our sundowners under the citrus trees in the riad courtyard. Shudders of horror went through us all as we considered the problems of tourism in Marrakech. Hamdulillah, nothing so gross could possibly happen in Fez. After all, there aren’t the bars, the fancy restaurants and the type of hotels that will accept stag parties that last for days, or indeed, visits that last only an hour or two. Fez is an acquired taste, we told ourselves. Not everyone is going to enjoy it. And so we sit complacently, hoping and praying that it won’t happen. NIMBY.

Consider, then, the latest news item in the Morocco Times about the new Ryanair flights from Luton to Fez. Not just to Marrakech, as in the past. But to Fez. What does it mean? Who will we get? Will they want the Attarine and the Bouanania or will they want booze and short lets? Is there anything at all that anyone can do?

And who the hell are we, anyway? What right do we have to wish away money coming into a country that needs it, wish to prevent people earning money, wish to preserve the status quo like colonials of old? The jury’s out on this dilemma as far as I’m concerned. I’m confused.



The hard news - Ryanair to launch Marseille-Morocco flights

According to a report in Le Maroc, Europe's biggest low-cost carrier, Ryanair, will launch flights between Morocco and Europe at the end of October. Seven weekly flights will link Oujda in northeastern Morocco with Marseille, France, while three will fly out of the central city of Fes.

Links are also planned between Morocco and Frankfurt and London in the autumn, with tickets for Oujda to Marseille selling for EUR 23.99 one-way. Morocco is now linked with Croatia and Serbia, into the common European aviation zone.

In May Ryanair signed a five-year agreement with the government of Morocco to develop low-cost air access and tourism to the country from Ryanair's bases throughout Europe.

The agreement covered most of the regional airports in Morocco and involved the commitment by Ryanair to develop up to 20 routes delivering almost 1 million passengers per annum by the end of the five-year period.

"Morocco is a new market, a strategic market for our company," said a Ryanair official.


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Australian delegation visits Morocco.

Australian MP Warren Entsch

This week a visiting Australian delegation met a number of Moroccan parliamentarians and officials to discuss issues of common interest, mainly cooperation in hydraulic resources, terrorism and energy.

“Morocco and Australia both have to face the challenge of hydraulic resources management and preservation, which makes both countries ready to intensify cooperation in this field, notably in terms of new technologies,” said Australian Member of Parliament, Warren Entsch, head of the Australian delegation.

Concerning the fight against terrorism, the Australian officials underlined that the efforts made by Morocco in this respect need to be supported.

During the meeting with the Moroccan parliamentarians, the Australian deputies, including Liberal and Labour MPs, were briefed on the main reform and development workshops and projects undertaken in the Kingdom, mainly the National Initiative of Human Development (INDH) and the process of Equity and Reconciliation.

They were also informed about the recent developments in the Sahara issue, in the light of the autonomy project to be presented soon to the UN.

On this occasion, Entsch officially invited some Moroccan parliamentarians to pay a visit to Australia.

Earlier in the day, the Australian delegation met with the Minister of Energy and Mines, Mohamed Boutaleb.

Reviewing Morocco's investment potentials, both parties examined the possibility of cooperation in energy and mines, given Australia's long experience in the field.

During their visit, which last until September 1, the Australian parliamentary delegation will also meet other government officials and visit a number of economic projects and workshops.




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Reaction to possible closure of the Marché Centrale



Today there was a mixed reaction from shopkeepers in the Marché Centrale about plans to modernise the market and change its location. Yesterday Helen Ranger posted a report on the situation ( See it here ). Today our Special Features Editor, Zany, took time off to talk to stallholders and customers.

Tarik at his father's stall today

"They've been talking about it for years," said Tarik, who was minding
his father's cheese shop. "Who knows if it will ever happen?"

The market is slated to move in 2010 to make way for an office block
and underground parking.

Mustapha the Rose-seller

While Tarik looks forward to the change at the new location near the Hotel Sofia on the Rue Arabie Saoudite, other merchants are less enthusiastic. "My brother and I have been working here for more than 20 years," says rose-seller, Mustapha. "We like being here and think the change is not a good thing. It is an historic site and should stay here."

Fishmongers will have to tackle bigger fish to save market

The general opinion among the fishmongers is that it is difficult to
compete with the new supermarkets. There are now three in Fes who
often undercut their prices, although the produce may not be as fresh
or the service as personal.


Long-time customer of the Marché Centrale, Mr Ghazali, believes that, "Change is inevitable. Perhaps if it is presented in a more modern way, more people including tourists will come to the Marché Centrale and that will be better for the merchants."


But if the market is moved from the historic building it now occupies,
could it be in danger of losing its character and charm and becoming
just another one of many modern, sanitised places to shop?



All photographs: Suzanna Clarke.

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Pigeon pie by airmail?

The View from Fez is indebted to the online Driffield Times for this week's quirky story.

Now most Moroccans will tell you that they have a love of B'astia - a local version of pigeon pie. So the news that pigeons are making their way here from Great Britain is probably seen as a good thing. But pause, and put yourself in the place of pigeon fancier Keith Sims.

Keith and one that didn't get away

Keith wasn't surprised when one of his birds didn't turn up back at the loft after a recent race - it's one of the hazards of racing pigeons. But he was surprised when he got a message from the Royal Pigeon Racing Association (RPRA) to say that his stray bird had turned up in Casablanca!

The bird was found by Mohamer Essofi, who luckily does not eat a lot of B'astia - instead it turns out he is a Moroccan pigeon fancier, and has taken the bird into his care.

But the downside of the rescue for Keith came in another message from the RPRA, telling him that the cost of having the errant pigeon returned would be more than £150.

Keith has decided on the cheaper alternative, which transfers the bird to the finder, in the hope that if his flyaway pigeon should return home in future, the transfer can be cancelled and the bird re-registered to him.

"It's very unusual to have a bird go astray by that distance," said Keith ruefully.

"I've lost them before but they usually turn up somewhere like Hull."

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Five Thousand VoIP call-shops for Morocco.

In previous posts, The View from Fez has reported on the changing face of telecomunications in Morocco. Back in June we reported that there had been a strategic meeting for infrastructure projects in Morocco. At that meeting a plan was devised for "technical realisation" was defined. Now comes the news that. subsequent to the official meeting with the Moroccan Prime Minister, Driss Jettou and Hassan Bernoussi, Director of External Investment, the AMITELO company has commenced the rollout of the first phase of what will become the installation a staggering five thousand VoIP-Call Shops in Morocco over the next three years with a overall budget of EUR 125,000,000.

According to its website, the AMITELO Group (www.amitelo.ag), headquartered in Zurich, is an internationally operating, innovative technological company which is active in telecommunication's high-growth areas such as VoIP, Sky DSL, ADSL, Billing, Call Shops and Call Centres.

The company's focus is on providing internet telephony (VoIP) and other telecommunication technologies for use in various regions of Europe and Africa. Additional new global markets will be developed in the near future. The AMITELO Group is pursuing an offensive growth strategy in which organic and acquisitory growth are closely connected and contribute to the realization of set turnover and income goals.

The launch includes new Voice-over-Internet-Protocol (VoIP) based services and the set-up of 5,000 new call shops in a time frame of three years, equipped with state-of-the-art VoIP-technology. The budget, approved by the government for this grant scheme for qualified persons is EUR 25,000 per call shop, resulting in a total amount of EUR 125,000,000 for the overall budget. The call shop equipment includes the technical environment, phones, computers and other hardware such as printers, as well as the software for the billing system and the furniture for the phone booths and the shop itself.

For this 3rd generation call shop-solution the Group member Median Telecom GmbH's VoIP-call shop-solution, currently deployed in Germany (by Median) and Spain (by Sunline Communications SL, another Group member), will be implemented. The set-up of the call shops of this type has been tailored to align with the "Mon Travail" scheme of the Moroccan Government by which qualifying individuals are able to access grant money to commence in self-employment. This is a new concept in Morocco, a country of 33.25 million inhabitants, of which 63.4% are in the 15-64 year age range. Morocco currently has some 3.5 million inhabitants using the Internet.

This franchise concept from AMITELO is a well-tried business model, which has proven suitable, to commence and develop successful self-employment. Regarding this, AMITELO expects a huge demand for its 3rd-Generation-Call Shop-Solution in Morocco. This project represents a direct synergy between Group members Median GmbH and Success Technology SA, deploying a 3rd-Generation call shop solution, particularly developed for Africa, in which both cultures and their differences are considered in the case of the design and deviations within the available infrastructure. The first call shop in Africa is already installed and is operational in Senegal for demonstration purposes. AMITELO is also planning the modernisation of existing call shops with the governments of certain partnering African countries. This is in accordance with Amitelo's focus on the emerging markets, some of which are not deregulated and some of which are preparing for deregulation regarding VoIP.

Due to the upcoming liberalization of the markets the competition will move into Africa. With each step in the technical direction of VoIP the former incumbents are designing their modernized services to be ready for the future. This means, they are providing a competitive offering, which increases the market entry barriers for new competitors.

Concepts like the 3rd generation-call Shops, completely based on VoIP-technology and which are offering, besides plain telephony and Internet access, additional services like e learning and e-government, are forward-looking and will remain against new competition in the market. E-government is an offer in the administrative authority field, providing forms to be downloaded and filled in online for diverse uses such as travel and relocation needs, application for sponsoring or government information.

AMITELO feels extremely positive after the successful implementation of the first series of call shops is complete, that further programs for modernization of the telecommunications infrastructure in Morocco can be realized in co-operation with the government. AMITELO is proceeding on the assumption that the positive resonance this common government project gains in the neighboring countries will be a signal for other projects to develop in the telecommunication sector in Africa. The management of AMITELO is traveling to Senegal at the end of September in order to negotiate similar new projects.


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The Marché Centrale gets its marching orders.

Our Special Affairs reporter, Helen Ranger, goes shopping and comes back with an important story. Here is her report:

It’s really easy to direct visitors to interesting places in the Fes medina, whether to wander the souks or explore seriously historical monuments.But what about the new city? It is, after all, a fair-sized city where most Fassis live and is much bigger than the old place down the hill. Does it have anything at all to recommend it, other than McDonald’s and some impressive palm-lined boulevards currently being upgraded?


Well yes, The View from Fez thinks there’s one aspect of the Ville Nouvelle that’s an absolute gem – the Marché Centrale, or Central Market. Found bang in the middle of Avenue Mohamed V, this market is a delightful throwback to days of yore. No wheeling trolleys down supermarket aisles here, no wilting vegetables and wrinkled fruit to irk the customer. This is the real thing, with real people serving you products they’ve chosen to have on their stalls, people who are proud of their wares. The stallholders are characters who’ll help you all they can: there’s the basket seller keen to kiss your hand, the vegetable man who’s disappointed if you pass him by, the olive stall man in a big turban who lets customers taste one of his many varieties, and the flower seller who always tucks in an extra rose. You can buy quails, turkeys, chickens and rabbits. Legs of lamb and sides of beef. The vast array of fish glistens and gleams. And the fruit – oh, the fruit. Everything from persimmons to avocados, figs green and purple, strawberries, pears and quince. Friends with a guesthouse riad are there early every morning to choose fresh produce for their dinner guests.


Got the picture? Well, enjoy it while you can. It will soon be turned into an office block with underground parking, oh, with a bit of space for a market maybe, but a streamlined, cleaner one. More modern, that’s what we want. None of this characterful stuff. Already the elderly herb seller is giving up. How many more of these wonderful merchants will be sidelined?


Funny, isn’t it, that in many ‘first world’ countries, organic food market stalls are springing up all over the High Street, whereas in developing countries such as Morocco, the markets are being cleaned up and the fresh produce banished to wilt on supermarket shelves?

All photographs: Helen Ranger.

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Monday, August 28, 2006

Moroccan Terrorism - The view from Lebanon.


The Dar Al Hayat from Lebanon has an article today on terrorism in Morocco. The piece is by Mohamed Ashab.


Three years have passed and Morocco still stands on the 'square of anxiety' caused by the suicide attacks in Casablanca and the consequent arrests, prosecutions, death sentences, and generations of reforms that touched on everything, from religious and social judiciary fields to security approaches.

Despite these facts, information surfaces every now and then regarding the dismantling of a terror cell here or there. It is likely that just as authorities try to track down the sources of blind terrorism in the phase of planning and recruiting followers inside the nation or in its near vicinity, these organizations are racing with space and time to announce their existence.

The Moroccan situation is not the target. Misleading and dangerous convictions may coincide with the exploitation of the religious dimension in sanctioning a moral reaction against the appearance of openness that contradicts the concept of 'Islamization' of society, a concept that is considered to be the umbrella for the neo-fanatics, like it was for the ancient apostates or the 'Khawarej'. They may also use it as an outlet for their bottled-up emotions in rejection of the values of modernization, mutual co-existence and acceptance of the 'other'. But they are still influenced by events and conflicts in other areas, the most recent indications of which was the fact that the majority of the cells dismantled in Morocco over the past three years focused on recruiting volunteers who wanted to join the Iraqi resistance in light of the continued US occupation.

These cells took up training positions in buffer zones on a triangle near the southern Sahara coast, taking advantage of terrain that is similar to that of Afghanistan, in the depth of the desert which shields these areas from border surveillance of movement, arms trade and smuggling, and illegal immigration.

While some of these cells succeeded in penetrating Iraq through efficient organization that extended across European countries, recruiting angry civilized youth of Moroccan origin, others substituted the concept of Holy War or 'Jihad' in Iraq with domestic Jihad. This means there is one source behind the hatching of terrorism that is capable of striking Egypt, Saudi Arabia, Indonesia, Madrid, London or anywhere else equally, as long as there are continually increasing hotspots that feed a sense of despair and increase animosities.

No Arab State, east or west, has ever been subject to a clash of this sort: the clash surpasses movements of rebellion and protest, and so does the reactions to it, that vary according to social, political and cultural settings.

The deterioration of security occurred with justifications of limited time and place. But it was not of the same quality as it is at present where the slogan of the 'war on terror' transcends all other wars and priorities.

Contrary to logic and common sense, which says that the more severe and direct pre-emptive strikes become, the more this phenomenon should recede; the opposite continues to hold true.

Not because the war on terror differs from tangible confrontations in pursuit of a tangible enemy, nor because the scope of this war is beyond the strategies recognized in any military or economic confrontation, but because these wars have branched and acquired new and different goals, and as a result, their consequences were reflected on different fronts.


It seems that the Arab States, as a result of setbacks in this war of universal dimensions, are the more likely candidate to pay the price. For at any rate, internal affairs in any given Arab country were not worse than they had always been, considering the increasing penetration of awareness of reform, the rising winds of democratic change, and the strengthened belief in the ability to realize the appropriate changes in line with individual needs.

Therefore, if such conditions were the main reason for growing radicalism, there would have been previous terrorist adventures trying to penetrate the Arab fabric in ways more dangerous than the current onslaught.

This means that the effect of this war will remain limited unless accompanied by other wars of a different kind against occupation and against the violation of dignity, feelings and the right for citizenship. On the Arab side, wars against poverty and discrimination become as important as the rest of the universal wars.

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Freedom of the press in Morocco.

Over the last year we have posted many stories about the improving situation of press freedoms in Morocco. For another view, here is an excerpt from an article by Bahia Amrani that was published in the Baltimore Sun.

Bahia Amrani is founder, editor and publisher of Le Reporter, a Moroccan independent newsweekly devoted to reporting and analyzing national and international affairs, politics, education, business and health issues. A link to the full article is at the end of this post.


The development of a free press in Morocco is an encouraging case study with the potential to serve as a model for other Muslim countries. The development of the free press did not occur overnight and continues to be a work in progress. As the founder and publisher of Le Reporter, an independent weekly newsmagazine in Morocco, I have witnessed firsthand the marked change in the attitude of the Moroccan government toward the media.

Only 10 years ago, I had to contend with government censors and agents who would literally park themselves in our offices to monitor magazine content. Beginning with the ascent of King Mohammed VI to the throne in 1999, a new relationship emerged between the government and the media. Not only were distrust and skepticism replaced by mutual respect and support, but the media became the vehicle for a mass reform movement in Morocco, a movement enthusiastically endorsed by the king.

It was this message that I set out to impart to my American media colleagues. Too often, Americans brush the entire Muslim world with the same stroke. To take one example, although Islamic extremism continues to be a scourge to the entire Muslim world, the way Morocco grapples with the problem is far different from the approach taken by many other Muslim countries.

Americans might be startled to learn that the Moroccan government has a zero-tolerance policy for Islamic extremism and has contributed in substantive ways to the world's war against terrorism. Recent government policies have focused on creating better educational opportunities and stamping out illiteracy among disadvantaged youth, a demographic that is most vulnerable to the seduction of extremists. The media pushed for these reforms, and the government, to its credit, enacted the necessary policies.

Full story: Baltimore Sun

Bahia Amrani's email: bahia.amrani@gmail.com.

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Sunday, August 27, 2006

Progress report on Riad Zany

Regular readers of The View from Fez will know we have been working out of temporary spaces while the renovation of Riad Zany is in full swing. Now we can say that the end is in sight (Inshallah!)


Fatima and Halima complete the last of the paint removal in the main office!


The end section and mezzanine of the groundfloor salon


One half of the hamam ready for "tadalakt" and zellij.



Mustapha completes the last of the central drain system.




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Saturday, August 26, 2006

Renting a house in the Medina of Fez

The View from Fez is constantly getting emails from people wanting advice about renting a house in the Medina. We are happy to help and suggest that you visit Helen Ranger's site where she has a range of wonderful riads and dars for rent.

A treasure you won't discover in any tourist literature.

However, we have also discovered another gem that is not listed in any of the regular sites. It is a beautiful dar (small house) that has been faithfully restored using traditional building techniques.

One of the great things about the house is its position right next to one of Fez's main arteries, Talaa Sghira, so guests are thick in the action. However having lived in the house for several days I can attest to the peacefullness and tranquility.

The house has two private suites with the option of self catering if you prefer. This option enables guests to experience Fes like a real Fasi unlike other riads and guest houses.

Other features: The rooms are honestly priced, tasty Moroccan breakfast included. The house has lots of spare rooms, perfect for couples with small children and an added bonus - One of the best terraces in Fes, superbly decorated with stunning views of the city and surrounding mountains.

So, if it is so secret, how can you find out more information on renting this magical house? Simply send us an email and we will pass it on to the owners. Email: fes.riad@gmail .com

Please note!

The View from Fez has no commercial interest in the renting of any houses and receives no commissions. We offer this service simply to enhance your enjoyment of the wonderful Fez Medina.

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Friday, August 25, 2006

Concern over infiltration of police and army

Analysts in Morocco say that there is growing concern over the possible infiltration of the army and police force by Islamic radicals. It is feared that those involved may be planning large-scale terrorist attacks.

While there is still no official confirmation of the reports, it is understood by the
View from Fez that a number of paramilitary police officers and a member of the judicial police have been detained. If true it is a worrying sign as it follows the recent arrest in late July of five military officers. This is the first time the armed forces have been implicated in an Islamist plot.

The five military officers were arrested with about 40 other suspected members of the El-Mehdi Support Group, an Islamist cell reportedly preparing an even bigger attack than the Casablanca suicide bombings that claimed 45 lives in May 2003.

Local reports said explosives and laboratory materials were confiscated from the group which was counting on the explosives expertise of the detained military officers in planning attacks against tourist installations, other sensitive sites and people representing the state. Following the arrests, army security chief Mohammed Belbachir was sacked.

The detained officers, who were based in Sale near Rabat, were low-ranking or had retired. Their arrests nevertheless created concern throughout Morocco. In the past the country acted quickly in the wake of the Casablanca attacks and arrested almost 2000 Islamist extremists. Nearly half of them have been sentenced on charges ranging from terrorism to incitation to hatred.

Non-violent Islamism is also on the rise in Morocco, where urban slums, rural poverty and a huge gap between the rich and the poor offer a fertile ground for movements such as the semi-legal Al Adl Wal Ihsane (Justice and Spirituality), which has been described as the country's biggest de-facto political party.

The arrests of the army officers also reminded Moroccans of several unsuccessful military coup attempts against Hassan II, the late father of King Mohammed VI, who came to the throne in 1999.

The Casablanca attacks were followed by several purges within the army, but observers said they may have been personal settlements of accounts rather than reactions to a fear of Islamism.

'General Belbachir may also have been removed for personal reasons,' said one analyst, who requested anonymity, who does not believe that Islamists have significant support within the army.

Human rights activists are more concerned about the treatment of the suspects, whose lawyers claim they have been tortured and held for longer than the legal 11-day period before being handed over to the judiciary.

Another militant Islamist cell broken up by Moroccan security forces was equipped to carry out a far bigger attack than the bombings in Casablanca according to the country's interior minister.

The government said in early Augustthat it had broken up a "terrorist network" that was planning to declare a holy war in the northeast of the country and had recruited five members of the armed forces able to handle explosives.

The authorities arrested over 40 members of the previously unknown Jammaat Ansar El Mehdi (El Mehdi Support Group) and seized explosives, propaganda material and laboratory equipment.

Interior Minister Chakib Benmoussa said the group had created a paramilitary branch which chose mountainous areas in northern Morocco to train its followers for a holy war and obtain arms with the help of local drug barons.

Interior Minister Chakib Benmoussa


"The group aimed to attack tourist installations, sensitive sites and foreign services ... and planned to assassinate people symbolising the state or for moral reasons," Benmoussa told members of parliament on Thursday.

He said the group had managed to get hold of large amounts of materials for making explosives, far more than the quantity used in the Casablanca bombings.

The fact the the latest cell to be broken up contained military personnel set alarm bells ringing in the kingdom, whose late king twice came close to assassination in the 1970s in attempted coups by military officers.

Benmoussa played down the idea that Islamist extremists had infiltrated the military, saying the members of the armed forces involved with Jemmaa Ansar El Mehdi were marginal individuals -- soldiers belonging to military bands and sports centres or vehicle maintenance personnel.

Earlier this year, the government said it had broken up more than 50 terrorist cells since the Casablanca attacks. Benmoussa said one of those groups, discovered in November last year, had links with al Qaeda and wanted to set up a terrorist network across the Maghreb.

Members of another group broken up at the start of 2006 had trained in camps in Mali and were linked to the Algeria-based Salafist Group for Preaching and Combat (GSPC), he said.

The Moroccan Minister of the Interior has also made it clear that all measures taken by the government to fight terrorism are "conform to the juridical rules" and stressed that "all individuals, groups, institutions and organizations" should abide by these laws.

On Thursday Chakib Benmoussa was briefing members of the House of Representatives' Commission of the Interior, Decentralization and Infrastructures, and was referring to the recent dismantle of an alleged terrorist group, called "Jamaat Ansar el Mehdi" whose members are in custody.

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Thursday, August 24, 2006

Reaction to "women dumped in Morocco".

For those interested in reading some more reaction to our story on Women being dumped in Morocco, may we suggest you check out posts in Morocco Time and Cat in Rabat.

Cat in Rabat is almost rendered speechless (justifiably) and in Morocco Time, Liosliath points out what we suspected, that the problem is not confined to the Netherlands she also sees little hope for the Dutch women. As she says: As for the poor girls formerly from the Netherlands, I don’t hold out much hope for their return - especially not with “Iron Rita” Verdonk in office. This is the same woman who enacted the infamous “immigration test.”

We are still trying to get a Moroccan government response to what is a major problem.

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Moroccan Islamist parties to soften stance?

A majority of Moroccans, while having firm religious convictions, don't want a fundamentalist Islamic government. The religious political parties are aware of this and appear to be softening their position. In a notable step, the Islamist PJD (Party of Justice and Development) has ruled out any act that harms the public order or the country's stability and institutions.

PJD Secretary General, Saadeddine Othmani told the Moroccan News Agency in reference to the dismantling of the Jamaât Ansar Al Mehdi terrorist group, that no "Moroccan political party and no patriot citizen would tolerate their country's security and stability be harmed".

He said he deems that terrorism has turned into a global plague and that national mobilizing is needed to face the phenomenon, whose "expansion mechanisms are for the most part of foreign origin."

The PJD SG recalled that King Mohammed VI had in the wake of the terrorist attacks of May 16, 2003, insisted on the need to dealt globally with the cultural, religious, economic, social and security aspects of the phenomenon.

Othmani observed that tackling the security aspect would not be enough to deal with terrorism, which requires pooling all efforts to eradicate the plague.

PJD member, Mustapha Ramid, said for his part he would not comment on the case, for he did not know anything of the dossier, yet.

The PJD was founded by Dr. Abdelkrim Al Khatib an old politician known for his close ties with the Monarchy, under the name of MPDC (Mouvement populaire démocratique et constitutionnel). The party was an empty shell for many years, until various members of a clandestine association Chabiba islamia, who later formed the MUR ( Mouvement unité et réforme) joined the party, with the authorisation and encouragement of former interior minister Driss Basri. It changed its name to PJD in 1998, this name was probably inspired by the Turkish Justice and Development Party.

It should be noted however that the Moroccan PJD is much less liberal and modern than the Turkish PJD, although a very slow modernisation process is going on.

At the other end of the scale are groups like Jamaât Ansar Al Mehdi

On August 11, Moroccan police moved against nine people, including five servicemen, in relation to Jamaât Ansar Al Mehdi and its intention t0 wage Jihad (religious war) in Morocco.

The police investigating the case claim that a man named Yassine El Ouerdini was entrusted by Hassan El Khattab with the armed branch of the group, and was planning to open training camps, identify and rob finance institutions and to attack military and civilian targets.

Meanwhile, Mustapha Kimid, Director of the Al Ahdath Al Maghribia daily Rabat office, confirmed his newspaper received terrorist threats warning to stop running stories on the Ansar Al Mehdi terrorist group.


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Wednesday, August 23, 2006

Women dumped in Morocco?

Radio Netherlands is carrying a disturbing story which, it would seem, is not only a problem for women from Holland, but possibly other European countries.

It happens each year - often during the summer holidays - to between 20 and 30 women visiting Morocco: they are left behind against their will by their husband or father. Their passports are taken off them and they are abandoned to their fate, while the rest of the family travels back to the Netherlands.

It's an easy way for a husband to separate from his wife, or for a father to get rid of a difficult daughter, but the consequences for the woman in question are enormous. She can't return to the Netherlands, which is where all her belongings are, and there's nowhere she can turn to for help in Morocco.

This is the situation as explained by a number of these women to Dutch Immigration and Integration Minister Rita Verdonk when she visited the country in June 2005. At the time, the minister seemed moved by their problems and promised to take measures to combat this practice of 'dumping' women.

When it comes to such measures, however, Khadija Hamzaoui hasn't noticed any changes so far. Now aged 22, this Moroccan-born woman was dumped in the country by her father seven years ago and is now trying to get back to the Netherlands. But that's no easy task. Her story is typical of those or many abandoned women. Her father brought her to the Netherlands, together with her mother and brother, in 1998.

Once here, she says that she made good progress at the special classes she attended for new arrivals who need to master the Dutch language. However, things were going as well in her relationship with her father, as Khadija - now in Morocco - explains: "He wanted me to wear a headscarf and actually he didn't want me to go to school and he kept me at home more and more frequently. He hit me too, I was scared of him."

In 1999, the family travelled to Morocco by bus for a holiday. Khadija's father had given her sleeping pills and when she came round again she was in a village in the Rif mountains surrounded by people she couldn't understand. They turned out to be her father's parents, who spoke Berber. They had no electricity, running water or telephone. She spent five years there, but then her grandfather had had enough of her and she was moved to other relatives in Tangiers.

Khadija explains what happened next:
"In May 2005, I couldn't carry on anymore and I drank a whole bottle of weed killer. But I was found and I survived. Then my brother came from the Netherlands to help me get back. I found someone in Tetouan who helped me put my whole story down on paper. We sent that to the Dutch embassy."

And this is where little can be seen as yet of the measures announced by Minister Verdonk. The embassy says it can't do anything with the fact that Khadija has already lived in the Netherlands and has informed her that she must first take an integration test in Morocco, at a cost of 830 euros.

This seems to tally with the conclusion reached by the minister a year ago after her visit to Morocco. She said that she thought she wouldn't be able to do much for the women who had already been abandoned, and she was more focussed on measures aimed at preventing it from happening in the future.

Ms Verdonk said at the time, "I think above all that we need to get tough with the men". The measures to be taken in that regard are still awaited.


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Spanish & Moroccan intellectuals seek common future

Some of the best brains in Spain and Morocco will get together between the 28th and 30th of August to discuss ways of bringing the two countries closer togethet. The conference called Spain and Morocco: 50 years of Co-operation. Dialogues for the Construction of a Common Future is being organised by the Hispano-Lusophone Studies Institute of Mohammed V University in Rabat in collaboration with Menéndez Pelayo University in Santander The conference, which will mark the 50th anniversary of Morocco's independencewill be held in Santander in Spain.

Politicians, experts, writers and journalists from the two countries will discuss issues related to different aspects of bilateral relations. Roundtables on Thought and History at the Crossroads, and Women from the Two Shores, a Common Task, are also envisaged in the programme.

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Tuesday, August 22, 2006

Morocco bids for 2011World Athletics Championships.

According to a press release from the International Association of Athletics Federations (IAAF), Morocco is candidate to host the 2011 World Athletics Championships.

However, according to information from sources close to the Federation, The View from Fez, believes Morocco is an outside chance given the strong field of contenders which include the USA, Spain, Russia, Sweden, Australia, Croatia, South Korea and the United Arab Emirates.

An evaluation of the bid cities will take place between December-2006 and February 2007, and the host of the Championships will be named in March 2007.

Split, Croatia will be the venue for the World Cup in Athletics in 2010.

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Monday, August 21, 2006

Moroccan King pardons 1556 people

It has been a tradition for Moroccan Kings to grant free pardon on the occasion of religious and national celebrations and feasts and this month King Mohammed VI granted free pardon to 1556 people on the occasion of the Revolution of the King and the People and the Youth days, celebrated on August 20 and 21, respectively.

On the eve of the Youth day, the sovereign pardoned 679 people, some in detention and others free and condemned by various courts of the kingdom,while on the eve of the 53rd commemoration of the Revolution of the King and the People Day, the Monarch granted free pardon to 877 persons.


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Moroccan Slippers.

Here's a question for you. How many Dirhams worth of shoes and slippers does Morocco export every year? Lets make it easy for you and limit the countries to, say, Spain, France, Germany and Italy? You don't know? Then read on....

Traditional men's slippers


Morocco produces millions of shoes and slippers every year. In Fez alone, I have lost count of the number of small craft shops that do nothing for more than 12 hours a day than turn out wonderful handmade sequined slippers.

And while they can be bought for very cheap prices in the Medina of Fez, try shopping for them in Paris or Berlin and you will get an idea of just how profitable they are for exporters. Some slippers, available locally for 150 Dirhams, sell in the UK for 25 British pounds.

And the export business is about to get bigger. According to a communiqué from the Moroccan Center for Exports Promotion (CMPE), six of the most important Moroccan shoe companies will take part in the World Shoe Fair (MIDEC) in the beginning of September - (2-4th). The exhibition, will include about 550 French and foreign companies, and is divided into "villages" in order to make navigation around the fair easier.

Last February, it attracted more than 12,000 professional purchasers and visitors.

Morocco has been involved with MIDEC twice a year since back in 1995.

Women's Slippers


And the answer to our question? In 2005 more than 1.67 billion Moroccan Dirhams was earned exporting to its main customers: France (40%), Spain (31%), Germany (13%) and Italy (9%).

The Moroccan participation in this exhibition is organised by the CMPE in collaboration with the Moroccan Federation of Leather Industries (Fedic).


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Royal Air Maroc to buy 51% stake in Air Mauritanie

Airline fares in and out of Morocco have come down a long way in the last year - that is if you are flying to European destinations. Flights to African destinations have remained extremely high. Hopefully that is going to change as far as Mauritania is concerned.

According to a spokesman for the Moroccan national airline Royal Air Maroc (RAM), he company will buy a 51 per cent stake in its Mauritanian counterpart, Air Mauritanie.

The decision came after Moroccan Prime Minister Driss Jettou met with Mauritanian Transport Minister Ibrahima Demba Ba and airline managers in Rabat. A team of RAM executives is scheduled to fly to the Mauritanian capital Nouakchott around the start of next month to finalise terms of the deal and take over management of the airline.

On the diplomatic front this move is aimed at developing economic exchanges between the Kingdom of Morocco and the Islamic Republic of Mauritania and promoting development of air transport between the two countries.

LA SAMIR GETS 70 USD


In other economic news, the Islamic Development Bank (IDB) lent "La SAMIR" oil refinery USD 70Mn to import crude oil and by-products.

In February 2005, The IDB granted a loan of USD 59,94 millions to La SAMIR to finance its rehabilitation and renovation program. The loan was to chiefly reinforce security and environment protection via the construction of a new station for effluent treatment, a power station for electricity distribution and a unit for water demineralisation.

It was also destined for equipping production units with control and detection systems.

SAMIR is one of the largest companies operating in Morocco and owns the only oil refinery facilities in Morocco supplying to the domestic market. Formerly a state-run company, SAMIR was privatized in 1997, at which time a major shareholding was taken by CORRAL Holding, who also has refining interests in Sweden.

SAMIR had operated a topping refinery since the first crude unit was installed in 1959. Since then, two more crude units, a vacuum unit and a lubes train have been installed to bring the refinery up to its current 6.25 million tons per annum (mtpa) crude capacity.

The SAMIR renovation is to increase capacity to 8.25 mtpa and install conversion units to deliver a higher-value product slate, in line with Morocco’s changing market demand.

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Saturday, August 19, 2006

Morocco's view of the outcome of the war in Lebanon

No war against an Arab country is likely to be popular in any Arab country. One that involves a large number of civilian deaths and casualties is even less likely to have much support. So it comes as little surprise that the failure of the Israelis to achieve their objectives is seen as a win for Lebanon and Hezbollah.

Here is a reasonably moderate example that was published as editorial opinion in the online Morocco Times. The author is Gwynne Dyer, a well respected freelance journalist, columnist, historian, broadcaster and lecturer on international affairs.

Here is an excerpt. A link to the original article is included below. The View from Fez would like to thank the Morocco Times.

Common sense has prevailed. Most of the Israeli troops who were sent into south Lebanon last weekend have already retreated, and the last thousand or two will be back inside the Israeli frontier by next weekend. They are not waiting for the Lebanese army and the promised international peacekeeping force to come in and "disarm Hezbollah." They are getting the hell out.

The last-minute decision to airlift Israeli troops deep into the four hundred square miles (1,000 sq. km.) of Lebanon south of the Litani river made good sense politically. That way, Israel didn't have to fight its way in and take the inevitable heavy asualties. It just exploited its total control of the air to fly its troops into areas not actively defended by Hezbollah just before the ceasefire, in order to create the impression that it had defeated the guerilla organisation and established control over southern Lebanon.

However, those isolated packets of troops actually controlled nothing of value, and they were surrounded by undefeated Hezbollah fighters on almost every side. Hezbollah could not have resisted for long the temptation to attack the more exposed Israeli units, perhaps even forcing some to surrender. So the Israeli troops are coming out now, in order to give Hezbollah no easy targets.

General Dan Halutz, the Israeli chief of staff, was right to make this decision, but it removes the last remote possibility that Israel can extract any political gains from the military stalemate in southern Lebanon. Hezbollah says it has no intention of disarming, and Lebanese defence minister Elias Murr says that his army will not try to disarm Hezbollah. The French, who are supposed to lead the greatly expanded United Nations peacekeeping force in the area, say that they will not commit their troops until Hezbollah is disarmed.

There will probably be some kind of fudge in the end that allows at least token numbers of Lebanese army troops and a somewhat expanded UN force to operate in southern Lebanon, but Hezbollah is staying put and so are its weapons. Over a thousand people killed, much of Lebanon's infrastructure destroyed, significant damage in northern Israel as well, and at the end of this "war of choice" Israel has achieved none of its objectives.

The Israeli armed forces have effectively been fought to a standstill by a lightly armed but highly trained and disciplined guerilla force, and there will be major repercussions at home and abroad.

Israel's humiliation might be a blessing in disguise if it persuaded enough Israeli voters that exclusive reliance on military force to smash and subdue their Arab neighbours is a political dead-end, but there is little chance of that. The Israeli politician likeliest to benefit from this mess is Binyamin Netanyahu, hardest of hard-liners, who flamboyantly quit the Likud Party last year in protest at former prime minister Ariel Sharon's policy of pulling out of the occupied Gaza Strip.

Much graver, in the long run, is the erosion of Israel's myth of military invincibility. It is always more economical to frighten your enemies into submission than to fight them, but Arabs have been losing their fear of Israel for some years now. This defeat will greatly accelerate the process, and there are a lot more Arabs than there are Israelis.

See the the complete article here: War on Lebanon: Israel has achieved none of its objectives.

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Tangier to host short film festival

The 4th Mediterranean Short-Length Film Festival will open in Tangier on September 11.

The six-day festival, open to recent short-length productions in the Mediterranean, will include an official competition that will screen 40 films from 17 countries.The list includes three Moroccan productions, Tala Hafid's Tes cheveux noirs Ihssan,Mohamed Chrif Tribek's 30 ans of Mohamed Chrif Tribek and Ali Benkirane's film, Casa.

The participating films will contest to win "the Festival's Grand Prize", "Best Screenplay Prize" and the "Jury Special Prize". The festival will also nominate best actors and actresses.

The jury, chaired by Moroccan filmmaker Momen Shimi, includes the director of the Tarifa African Festival, Mane Sisneros, the French producer and filmmaker, Bernard Verley, the Palestinian director Rachid Masharoui and the Moroccan sociologist, Soumaya Naamene Guessous.

Spanish director Martin Resete’s film Our daily bread was awarded last year’s first prize.

On the fringes of the official competition, movie-goers will sample a wide range of Moroccan cinema through the screening of 60 national productions.

The festival will also feature conferences and debates on short-length films.

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Friday, August 18, 2006

Moroccan Foreign Minister criticises Arab media

Arab world media has failed to convey the Arab message on disasters befalling the region, according to the Moroccan Foreign Minister, Mohamed Benaissa.

The Arab world has failed to use the media, in spite of the technology it possesses, to send its message regarding the disasters that devastate the region, particularly the Israeli aggression on Lebanon and Palestine, he said, speaking at a conference held in Assilah on Thursday to debate issues on "the Media in the Arab World and Communication with the Other". The conference was part of the 21st session of Al Moatamid Ibn Abbad Summer University and the 28th International Cultural Festival of this north-west sea-side town of Morocco.

Benaissa stressed the role of the elite and communication experts in helping spread the Arab message about relevant issues to the world, asking what are the best means for Arabs to communicate with "the other" to convey the modernization dynamic in the region.

The communication problem is getting sharper in the Arab world at a time when political, security and existential issues are becoming problematic in its relations with the Western world, Benaissa said, noting however that the situation of the media has greatly improved in the region.

He added that in Morocco huge progress has been made regarding press freedom, stressing that the stake is to separate information from comment in line with the principle « information is sacred and comment is free ».

For his part Abdelwahab Badrakhan, assistant editor-in-chief of the " Al-Hayat " newspaper, said the Arab media have in the context of the current political changes to establish dialog with non Arab interlocutors, “with whom understanding, tolerance and change have to be sought.”

Wadah Khanfar, Director General of the Qatari " Al-Jazeera " tv channel, said "...there is an actual crisis within the Arab media regarding relations with authorities and the public.”

Authorities have to regard the media as a means to preserve society and help the public to better understand political facts and form its own opinions, he went on to say, adding Arab States should support press bodies, without interference to preserve their credibility.

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Tangier police nab bank and migration fraudsters

This week police in Tangier have dismantled two criminal gangs, the first specialized in document falsification to defraud banks, and the second in organizing illegal migration.

The police arrested three people who used to swindle banks by means of fake identity documents. The monitoring of Mohamed B. 29, and Hicham L., 31, helped the police nab the two red-handed in a Tangier bank, Fouad B. 28, who faked the documents was arrested along with another man.

The three main suspects, computer technicians, opened bank accounts with computer falsified papers, withdrew the deposit in weekends at ATMs and withdrew the money once again on Monday mornings before the central server sends the account balance to agencies.

They also used names of businessmen, rich families and VIPs to benefit from the utmost withdrawal amount at ATMs. Before operating in Tangier, The View from Fez understands that the gang had used the same modus operandi in Rabat.

During the raid at the cozy residential house they rented, the police seized computers and other material for document falsification, as well as some 40 identity cards, a dozen bank cards and several check books.

On Wednesday, the same police brigade arrested five members of the gang specialized in faking documents used to help people illegally immigrate. The police seized fake passports, stay permits and other police and consulate stamps, at the apartment rented by the gang.

Noura M., 25 and Youness F., 23, are believed to be the masterminds of the group. They also are computer experts.

Six other people, in charge of finding prospective immigrants and other illegal matters, are wanted by the police in this case.


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Most viewed posts - August 2006



Each week we track the most popular posts so that we can get an idea of what you like to read about. Here are the top posts from the last seven days.


  • Dune-boarding in Morocco

  • Learn Moroccan cooking in Fes

  • Renting or buying a house in Fez

  • Restoring a house in Fez

  • The paradox of olive oil

  • Renovation update


  • The View from Fez temporary office


    And the most interesting post this week is from a blogger called The Arabist.

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    Thursday, August 17, 2006

    Driving in Morocco - A warning.

    21 killed in road accidents in a week

    With the cooler than expected weather, the low cost and availability of air flights, tourists are flocking to Morocco at a time of the year when the heat usually keeps them away. Marrakech is buzzing and Fez is enjoying record numbers of family tourists and young people.

    However, a warning, if you plan to rent a car and drive yourself, you should consider the dangers on the roads. In this week alone, twenty one people were killed and 1,063 injured, including 877 seriously, in the 877 road accidents between August 7 to 13.

    Authorities blame road accidents on speed excess, non-respect of road regulations and pedestrians inadvertence.

    On Tuesday, seven people were killed in two separate accidents in central Morocco.

    15,382 road accidents killed 345 and injured over a thousand between January and May 2005 in Morocco.

    During the last ten years, road accidents increased at a yearly basis of 3%, causing enormous economic losses. They cost the State about USD 1.2 billion a year, that is 2.5% of the GDP.

    Generally the roads are fine but you do need to be aware that not all drivers are as careful as you might hope.



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    Wednesday, August 16, 2006

    Will Malta follow Morocco's lead?

    Claire Bonello, writing in Malta Today, asks an interesting question.

    They cleaned up the Kasbah 12 years ago – why can’t we?


    Tourists will head for the kasbah instead of the pjazza if we continue to criticise them, instead of taking up their criticisms. Former environmental heroes too, are losing their way

    Before I first visited Morocco some twelve years ago I was swamped with a deluge of warnings from anxious relatives and friends. “They don’t have toilets there, you know”, I was told “…or toilet paper”. “Be careful – it’s very dirty”, and finally, “Never, ever make eye contact with Moroccan shop or market stall owners, they’re horribly insistent and won’t let you go unless you’ve bought out half the shop.”

    Their repeated warnings were not quite enough to cloud over the prospects of the romantic Casablanca of Humphrey Bogart and Ingmar Bergman fame (actually Casablanca does not live up to its celluloid reputation) but I did entertain some niggles of doubt about this supposedly loo-less, filthy destination with leech-like vendors. The Morocco-detractors were to be proved wrong. There were normal, European-style toilets in most places. Although I did encounter the dreaded hole-in-the-ground set-up a couple of times, this did not happen more often than in closer, familiar Italy. The place was clean – cleaner than Malta at any rate – there was no junk-food debris or strewn papers littering the street.

    And the annoying vendors? They weren’t annoying at all, they simply made their sales pitch, sometimes accompanied by offers of minute glasses of Coca-Cola (not mint tea anymore – even Marrakesh has fallen for the powers of the multinationals) and got on with their job. There was no insistent tugging at sleeves or being detained interminably in some back room stacked with carpets. At no point did they prove to be the souk-limpets they had been described as. I had wondered whether my co-nationals had been as wrong about them as they were about the lack of toilets and the filth. I found out that in this case, their impressions of the Moroccan vendors was not so unfounded after all. There had, in fact, been numerous complaints about tourists being harassed by market stall owners and other shop owners. In some cases, tourists swore that they would never again.

    But then, the Moroccan government did something very extraordinary – by Maltese standards at least – it listened to the complaints and acted upon them. It did so in a very sensible manner, introducing special “tourist police” to ensure that visitors were not harassed, pestered, fleeced off or annoyed in any way. They weren’t.
    The measure worked because the Moroccan administration of the day was astute enough to realise that the criticism coming its way about the touts was well-founded and not sarcastic griping coming from hard-to-please tourists.

    It didn’t get all defensive and adopt that “put up, or shut up attitude” that many of us do whenever visitors have the temerity to criticise the failings of some aspect of the Maltese service industry or infrastructure.

    No, the Moroccan government made use of all the free advice coming its way and used it to turn the situation to its advantage. Look at it now. Last year 5.84 million foreign visitors made their way to riyadhs in gorgeous Marrakesh, Fez, Meknes or Rabat and 10 million arrivals are expected to pour into the country over the next four years. And though the lure of swaying palms and exotic food and culture is strong, the rapid response from the Moroccan government to the complaints of tourist harassment, must have had something to do with it.

    And if we (for we, read “the Maltese government”) were wise enough to try and pick up something from the experience of other countries, it would be this – that you can have a beautiful country and a fantastic marketing and promotional strategy, but if you’re out to attract tourists, you have to identify and act upon their specific complaints. The ones which they take the trouble and effort to write to the local newspapers after their holiday. We can’t afford to shrug them off as bothersome, pampered pests who should go elsewhere if they don’t like it here.

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    Moroccan Sand Dunes - The latest buzz.

    How do you value-add to sand dunes? It may seem like a strange question, but if you have a lot of sand dunes and most people come simply to look at them, then it is a fair question. Fortunately the Moroccans have come up with the answer: dune-boarding. Patrick Steel from the Guardian newspaper has an interesting article about it. Here's an extract.

    Photo: Patrick Steel

    It goes without saying that sand and snow are very different. But I'm just outside the Moroccan village of Hassi Labied, where the Ziz Valley comes down from the Atlas and dissolves into the arid moonscape of the Western Sahara, and as I launch myself off the largest sand dune in the area with a snowboard strapped to my feet, the difference seems academic. I am hurtling at considerable speed through the desert while around me sand dunes ripple over the horizon, changing colour, chameleon-like, in the setting sun. The scenery, as it rushes past, is intensely beautiful - a blur of browns, yellows and blues.

    The differences do matter though. The sand is very fine, so I have to lean back to keep the tip of the board from burying itself in the side of the hill. It feels slightly unnatural because on snow, which I am used to, leaning forwards is the key to staying upright. And where snow eases the board on its way, sand seems to create some friction, which means having to hurl myself off the top of the dune to gather momentum. Luckily, the dune is not only the largest, but also the steepest in the area, so gathering speed is not a problem, despite the friction. It's even possible to put a few turns in, carving S shapes in the sand near the bottom.

    It's exhilarating stuff, but over far too quickly; then begins the slow trudge back to the summit. It's at this point that I start dreaming of an Alpine-style chairlift to whisk me back to the top.

    The full article is HERE

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    Tuesday, August 15, 2006

    The paradox of olive oil

    Here's a worrying thought: The olive oil in your pan is helping to trigger environmental change thousands of miles away in this Morocco. Beth Daley, writing in The Boston Globe, has this to say:

    Morocco is launching an all-out effort to export more of the heart-healthy oil to meet Westerners' growing demand. But to export agricultural products, it must meet international environmental standards, which in the case of olive oil means, among other things, doing a better job of containing production waste.

    At the same time, Morocco is facing severe shortages of fresh water exacerbated by decades of pollution from olive mills. Now the nation's progressive king has made cleaning the environment a cornerstone of his regime.

    ``Morocco is trying to clean up its act," said Jon Cooper, a US Trade and Development Agency consultant who is working with the Moroccan government to develop the nation's first modern olive oil waste treatment plant. ``They want to appeal to the tourist and export market."

    The olive oil wastes, called margines, are the remnants of squeezed skins, ground pits, pulp, salt, and water used in olive oil processing. Sweet-smelling, the margines can dry to a cake-like consistency and be burned as a low-grade fuel. But more often, the still-wet organic waste is dumped directly into waterways, where it sucks up enormous amounts of oxygen and leaves an oily film. It's estimated that tens of thousands of tons of margines -- maybe hundreds of thousands -- are produced in the country each year. In Marrakesh, a small mountain of margines filled a production facility courtyard.

    And more margines will be created if Morocco succeeds in capitalizing on Westerners' growing love affair with the Mediterranean diet. Research shows that diets rich in olive oil may help lower the risk of heart disease, reduce the onset of diabetes, lower blood pressure, protect against certain types of cancer, aid digestion, and strengthen the immune system. In the United States, total global imports of olive oil rose from about $408 million in 2001 to $912 million last year and are projected to grow even higher, according to Packaged Facts, a publishing division of MarketResearch.com. Olive oil tasting bars and shops are becoming more popular, including one that opened in a Chicago suburb this year.

    ``There is an interesting irony," said Azbar Nuri, an assistant professor at Ege University in Turkey who studies ways to treat olive oil waste. ``Olives and olive oil are believed to bring health during their consumption, but the side products could be disastrous for the environment if no precautions are taken."

    Morocco has long been a bit player on the world olive oil stage, making up about 3 percent of the world's production -- far less than Spain's 36 percent and Italy's 25 percent. Frequent droughts, desert expansion, and erratic rainfall have made even that small percentage unreliable, and in many years Moroccan production doesn't match domestic demand.

    To increase the market share of Morocco's own fruity olive oil, King Mohammed VI is working to double the acreage of olive farms to almost 2.5 million by 2010. He's offering financial incentives to plant trees and invest in olive farms. Outside Marrakesh, in one of the country's key olive producing regions, the investment can be seen in the neat rows of newly planted olive trees at the foot of the Atlas Mountains. In a nearby government-run agricultural station, scientists recently tested irrigation methods and pesticides and new varieties of trees to boost production. A research scientist picked a green olive bud to give visitors a close-up view and then shook an age-old tree to demonstrate how the branches are made to drop their fruit.

    ``Moroccan olive oil has a very good reputation -- it's very rich -- but Morocco doesn't have a brand name," says Aziz Debbagh, who grows, produces, and imports olive oil from Morocco to New York for food service companies. He just bought an olive farm near Marrakesh. ``That's what needs to be developed -- a niche."

    But as growers gear up to meet world demand, they are also being required to meet European Union and other environmental standards.

    That's hard enough for a country with centralized production factories. But some 60 percent of the olive processing in Morocco is still conducted at an estimated 16,000 traditional presses, according to the Oxford Business Group, which publishes emerging market studies. Many of those presses still use a donkey to turn a stone wheel to help squeeze oil from olives.

    The Moroccan government has expressed fears that a new sewage treatment plant being built near Fez will become overwhelmed by margines. And efforts to create holding ponds for the waste in the Sebou River area backfired. There, officials created a centralized location where the waste could dry and be removed. But the expected evaporation never took place, probably because of the small area of the pond and the heavy oil left in the material. What's more, many producers ignored a rule to bring waste to the ponds because the regulation was never enforced.

    Now the government -- with funds from the US Trade and Development Agency -- has awarded a $322,000 grant to a US engineering firm to conduct a feasibility study to treat the waste. Cooper says the technology could include a system to convert organic waste into gas that could be burned as fuel. That way, he says, farmers would have a financial incentive to invest in the technology.

    But some say that financial incentives to better treat waste will also come in the form of markets -- as environmentally aware consumers demand sustainably produced goods.

    ``Moroccan olive growers will have to ensure that they are using responsible methods of production and processing," said B. Lynn Salinger, vice president and senior economist for the Cambridge-based Associates for International Resources and Development, who works with Moroccan agricultural officials to bolster trade with the United States.

    ``Or they risk incurring the swift repercussions of the market should consumers hear evidence to the contrary," she said.


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