Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Rabat - the centre of the Universe?

Several of the fine citizens of Rabat have been quick to express their disquiet and displeasure at the amount of attention Meknes has garnered on these pages in recent days. "Unfair," they cry "Rabat deserves your gaze." Oh does it? I would have thought the attention paid to Rabat by a certain feline, the highly talented Cat in Rabat, would have been more than enough.

When I emailed one of our correspondents and suggested they visit the cat, they replied that they already did so, but wanted more. "Remember, Rabat is the center of the universe" - I was told. Well, having noted the American spelling of "center", I was on guard. Was this the Rabat tourism authorities, or blog police?

Anyway, out of fear of never being able to visit Rabat again, I can offer you the glowing description by writer Carola Frentzen - Strangely, she titled her piece


Duck in for Rabatseason.


WHEREVER you go in Rabat the scent of mandarin blossom hangs in the air, especially in the Andalusian Gardens near the kasbah.

In this enchanting area, laid out by the French, the trees are laden with fruit.

The old quarter of Rabat may be less picturesque than the one in Fez or Marrakech, but it has its own flair.

Only a handful of tourists venture into these narrow streets. When exploring this north African country, most visitors plan just a brief stopover in Rabat, unaware that this city of 1.6 million people has more to offer than the famous Hassan Tower.

The watchtower built by Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour at the close of the 12th century is Rabat's major landmark.

Along with the remains of the mosque, it stands close to the mausoleum of Mohammed V, a rather grand and pompous historical ensemble typical of this country.

Rabat is one of the four imperial cities along with Marrakech, Fez and Meknes.

They have been home to the sultans and kings of Morocco down the centuries, with the result that these settlements have developed into genuine metropolises while retaining much of their antique charm.

Quite apart from its tourist attractions, though, the centre of Morocco's capital exudes a serene, sublime atmosphere.

Another attraction is the richly decorated Oudaya Gate at the entrance to the kasbah of the same name. It dates back to the 12th-century Almohad rulers.

An evening visit to the Dinarjat restaurant in the Medina is another must.

The reputation of this venue as a major meeting point for gourmets has even extended as far as Casablanca, 80km south.

Guests are picked up by a staff member at the entrance to the kasbah before being guided by lantern-light through the labyrinth of narrow streets to the entrance of the eatery.

Behind the door of the city's old palace lies a whole Moroccan world to be discovered, with traditional live music and elegantly dressed waiters under tall archways and intricately carved ceilings.

Last, but not least, there is tajine the name of a delicious stew and the conical, covered clay pot used to bake it.

And there are plenty of other delectable Moroccan dishes on the menu of this establishment, too.

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1 comment:

Cat in Rabat ( كات في الرباط) said...

*Sigh* I don't do a very good job at promoting Rabat as the centre of anyone's universe, so I'm relieved that you left the job to someone else.

Now, there's only ONE person who reads & contributes to both of our blogs who has met me, so if it isn't her than we have a poseur in our midst!