When the Gnaoua musicians arrive somewhere there is no mistaking it. The noise is intense, the drumbeats insistent... but when they arrive in an enclosed space ... well, it really has to be experienced.The arrival in Cafe Clock was intense - overwhelming. It was like being hit with a wave of sound and it was great! The youngest boy danced, whirled and like a dervish, but not once did the smile of pleasure leave his face.
Then, just as suddenly as it began, it was over, they collected a few dirhams ( some showering down from patrons on the upper floor) and then sat down ( as all good Gnaoua should ) for a Cafe Latte and a ciggarette!
One of the interesting things to watch in Fez is the way people react to the Gnaoua. Sometimes, in the street, there is cautious reaction from tourists who are not sure what is happening. Some think it is simply an excuse to ask for a few dirhams... and they are right. But it is just the circumstance when a few dirhams are worth giving. The Gnaoua come from a long tradition of musicians blending African, Berber and Arab musical influences and the locals are usually the first to give a few coins. So next time you hear that drumming begin.... dig a little deeper and then everyone is smiling
Tags: Moroccan Morocco Fes, Maghreb news
2 comments:
Gnaoua music is said to be good for the Gniins in the house, a cleansing of spirits. Have been thinking of driving them around in my car!
Jess
I remember one former Fes resident who whenever he was approached by the Gnoua with cap in hand, he used to do his own little dance and then extend his hand for a donation.
Personally I find the street gnoua with only the metal castanets extremely annoying. The full Gnoua band with gimbri etc. is a much more enjoyable experience
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