Monday, September 08, 2008

Guardian and Observer Travel Awards to be held in Fez



The annual Guardian and Observer Travel Awards will take place in Fez between Friday October 10 and Monday October 13.

The organisers have obviously done their homework for the highlight - a black tie Gala Dinner and Awards Ceremony to be held on the evening of Saturday October 11 - will be held at Palais Mnebhi.

Palais Mnebhi

The palace (15 rue Souiket Ben Safi) is located in the heart of the Medina and was built in the late 19th century and took over 15 years to complete. Palais Mnebhi is one of the most beautiful monuments in Fez and it is a fantastic example of traditional Moroccan architecture.

Flights have been arranged on our behalf of the organisers by Royal Air Maroc.

For more information please visit the AWARDS WEBSITE

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Travel Writing about Morocco #22


Fez- a place of secret delights.

An article entitled Authentic Morocco by Jonathan Gregson writing for the Financial Times is a much better crafted piece than much of the gushingly Orientalist fare served up by the tabloids. Here is a short extract.

If what you seek in Morocco is sunshine with all the usual international trimmings - designer interiors, capacious swimming pools, a choice of spa treatments and/or golf courses - all served up with just a twist of Old Araby, then follow the herd and head for Marrakech. Massive infusions of mainly Gulf money are transforming its surrounding palmeraie into a Palm Springs-style playground in the sun, while the old town is now studded with estate agents quoting prices in euros rather than dirhams.

If, however, you want to be transported into a completely different world, then go to Fez. It's not just that it is the oldest of Morocco's four imperial cities (the others being Meknes, Rabat and Marrakech) and is this year celebrating its 1,200th anniversary; nor even that the entire Medina has been awarded Unesco World Heritage status. Rather it is because when it comes to such intangibles as dignity, refinement and sheer authenticity, Fez wins hands down.

That may be because Fez el Bali (Old Fez) remains a fully functioning medieval city, a hive of industry whose products - be they filigree work or bridal thrones - are as much in demand among local buyers as foreigners. On weekends, its succession of souks (which on first acquaintance resemble a medieval department store) are crammed with Berber villagers and more sophisticated visitors from Casablanca or Rabat, all seeking wedding presents or hand-crafted furnishings for their own homes.

The pride that Fassis (the people of Fez) take in their craftmanship and industry - many of the skills came with refugees from Andalucia fleeing the Reconquistá - may account for a certain hauteur. It also makes this city feel quite distinct from most other picturesque relics of a bygone age, whose economic survival depends on tourism and whose residual population is there to "service" the visitor.

Some find such un-Disneyfied authenticity frightening. It certainly came as a shock on my first visit some 30 years back. I was no novice, having already been through Marrakech, the High Atlas and the southern oases; but nothing had prepared me for the unique combination of timelessness and big-city intensity I found in Fez. I felt like an Oklahoma boy just arrived in Manhattan, overwhelmed by the crush of humanity and their hurried big-city ways.

For crowded within the city's 13th-century walls are religious scholars and merchants, wool carders and dyers, tanners, silk weavers, slipper makers, woodcarvers, silversmiths and brass-workers, porters, barrow boys, muleteers and donkey-men. These last because the streets and alleyways of Fez el Bali are so steep and so narrow that no motor vehicle can enter.

Everything that is consumed or produced within the city must be carried by man or beast. "There are 10,000 donkeys," I was informed, "and that is if you count only the four-legged ones." So, while walking around the Medina, it is best to keep an ear open for the cries of " Balak! Balak!" that announce the arrival of a donkey-train just in time for pedestrians to take evasive action. Also, to follow the Fassi custom of skirting the sides of thoroughfares (like British motorists, they keep to the left) so as to avoid being bumped by the passing animal's load - which could be anything from a new refrigerator to uncured hides.

While there are a few main arteries through the Old City, such as the Grand Tala ("our own Champs Elysées"), most of the alleyways twist and turn so much that you are certain to get lost sooner or later unless you have a guide. Not that I find this an altogether unpleasant sensation. By wandering aimlessly I discovered a traditional apothecary whose glass cabinets contained all manner of marvellous cures, from powdered herbs and minerals to desiccated lizard. On my last visit I turned down a covered alley to find myself following what seemed to be an endless silken thread, as though on Ariadne's trail. At the end of it was a moustachioed weaver, juggling with two spools, who had seen fit to use this public byway as his workshop.

Here is a link to the full article: Authentic Morocco

Photo credit: Sandy McCutcheon

Check out our earlier travel writing stories:

Travel Writing Twenty-one
Travel Writing Twenty
Travel Writing Nineteen
Travel Writing Eighteen
Travel Writing Seventeen
Travel writing Sixteen.
Travel Writing Fifteen.
Travel Writing Fourteen.
Travel Writing Thirteen.
Travel Writing Twelve.
Travel Writing Eleven.
Travel Writing Ten.
Travel Writing Nine
Travel writing eight
Travel writing Seven
Travel Writing Six
Travel Writing Five
Travel Writing Four
Travel Writing Three
Travel Writing Two
Travel Writing One


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Essaouira's Andalousies Atlantiques Festival 2008


El Gusto

This year's Andalousies Atlantiques Festival will celebrate the prodigious musical heritage of al-Andalus. This year's event will take place in Essaouira from October 30 to November 1, 2008 and will pay tribute to two giants of Judeo-Arabic music who passed away earlier this year - the Moroccan Sami El Maghribi and the Algerian Lili Boniche.


Among the groups performing are El Gusto, a 50-person ensemble that reunites veteran chaabi musicians who performed together in the casbah of Algiers in the 1950s - including Maurice El Medioni, Ahmed Bernaoui, Rene Perez, and Luc Cherki under the leadership of Abdelhadi Halo; Maxime Karouchi, a young Moroccan-born vocalist who performs Andalusian nuba, and Sami El Maghribi's melhoun and chaabi repertoire; Mohamed Briouel and the Orchestre Andalous de Fes - Briouel directs the Music Conservatory of Fez, and won the Prix du Maroc for his book Moroccan Andalusian Music: Nouba Gharibat Al Husayn; and the group Jil Jilala, who fuse the rhythms of Issawa and Gnawa with melhoun, and whose songs of protest of the 1970s and 1980s have become classics.

During the morning, panels will bring together researchers, journalists and musicians to discuss the music legacy of al-Andalus. Films, documentaries and exhibits will be shown during the afternoon - concerts begin at 6:00pm.


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Friday, September 05, 2008

Break your Friday Fast in Fez with a concert


Fès et Gestes will be serving F'tour (traditional meal composed of harira, dates, pastries, milkshakes, hardboiled eggs ) tonight , September the 5th, at around 6.50 pm . Breaking the fast will be followed by a concert of traditional Arabic music with singer Anas Habib.

Price: 80 Dhs

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Wednesday, September 03, 2008

Moroccan News Roundup #3507


Rice visiting Morocco

The U.S. Secretary of State , Condoleeza Rice is expected in Morocco later this week, part of a tour in north Africa, the U.S. State Department announced on Tuesday. The visit to the north African States is scheduled for September 4-7, and includes Libya, Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco. Rice will also make a stopover in Portugal

The U.S. Secretary of State is due to meet with the top officials of the visited countries to "discuss a wide range of bilateral and regional issues," the State Department added. In light of the unrest in tge Caucus region it will be interesting to hear if Ms Rice raises the thorny issue of Morocco's developing stronger ties with Russia.


King inaugurates professional training and elderly centres in Rabat

A centre for professional training and a social centre for the elderly, with a global budget of MAD 14 million ($1.8 million USD) were both inaugurated on Wednesday by King Mohammed VI.

The professional training centre is due to receive 300 male and female young beneficiaries, including the disabled, the non-schooled and job-seeking degree holders. Courses will be given in IT, business management, secretarial work, accountability, jewellery professions, and artistic gardening.

The centre's major goal is to help young people develop the most-sought after skills in the job market and to fight against social exclusion.

The building is part of a broader program to erect 10 similar centres across the country in partnership with the Mohammed V Foundation for Solidarity and the Office of Professional Training and the Promotion of Labour (OFPPT). Two of these centres are operational in Settat and Tangier.

A convention was established to identify the actions of the different players, and give the beneficiaries access to microcredits.

The social centre for the elderly will provide housing, food, and medical follow-up to the old people lacking family support and financial resources.

The centre aims to improve the life conditions of elderly people, and to develop good practice in terms of services offered to them. There will also be a “Regional Observatory for Aged People”.

The centre will provide 40 people with long-term accommodation and 10 people with one-week accommodation, while it will offer medico-social services to the non-resident elderly.

Spouse of late king Mohammed V dies

Lalla Bahia, spouse of late King Mohammed V and mother of princess Lalla Amina, passed away on Wednesday, the Ministry of the royal household, protocol and chancellery has announced.

The funeral of Lalla Bahia will take place on Thursday after the afternoon prayers (Al 'Asr) in the Moulay El Hassan mausoleum in Rabat and will be a private family ceremony.

King Mohammed V, grandfather of king Mohammed VI, was the sovereign of Morocco between 1927 and 1961.


Casablanca to host 1st international leather fair in October

Casablanca, will host the first international leather fair "MaroCuir" on October 9-11. The fair is expected to bring together some 130 national and international exhibitors who will display their latest products and their know-how in the area of subcontracting and co-contracting in leather industry, luggage, leather clothes, footwear industry, equipment and services.

The event will feature conferences, a fashion show as well as business meetings.

According to organizers, the event is part of "the Emergence Plan for leather industry", which provides for developing leather professions and prompting the sector firms to upgrade their offer and adapt it to markets' expectations.

Egyptians ban Moroccan film

Alexandria's International Film Festival celebrates fifty years of Moroccan cinema this year, but after organisers suddenly pulled a movie scheduled for opening night last week, the renowned event has been marred by controversy.


According to a report on Maghrebia.com the last-minute cancellation of Moroccan movie "Whatever Lola Wants" at the opening night of the Alexandria International Film Festival has sparked a major reaction in by the film's director and others in the industry.

Since the film has already been screened at festivals from New York to Abu Dhabi, the organisers explained, it was not possible to use it at the opening of a major festival such as Alexandria. The festival committee also called the film "average".

"Pulling the film at the last minute was better than showing a film which has already been screened elsewhere and which would have brought the festival into disrepute and offended visitors," said festival president Iris Nazmi.

In addition, scenes set in Egypt featuring gay characters were likely to offend Egyptians, Alexandria festival officials said.

"The film includes a lot of scenes in which insults are directed towards Egypt and Egyptians and which depict them as panders and rascals," Mamdouh Al Laithy, head of the Egyptian Cinema Writers and Critics Association, said.

Set in New York and Cairo, "Whatever Lola Wants" depicts the clash of cultures that arises from a romance between an American girl and an Egyptian young man. They meet in New York and fall in love, but the relationship fails. The man then decides to go back to Egypt and the girl follows him.

It is the costliest production in the history of Moroccan cinema, coming in at a hefty 10 million euros.

Egyptian critic Tarek al-Shenaoui told an Egyptian magazine that the sudden decision to replace the movie "makes Alexandria Festival management lose its credibility and proves that the Festival management has never seen the film".

Ramadan Television programming - is it better this year?

The View from Fez would like to hear from those who have started watching the Ramadan Television offerings. According to early comments, the reaction has been mixed. Writing to Maghrebia.com one viewer had this to say:

I keep thinking that my family (in America) will visit me in Morocco during Ramadan - and am terrified they will want to experience the whole culture; i.e the execrable after-fast TV programming. I've seen many of these performers (at different times) under talented directors, including Nabil Ayouch: Great things can be certainly done with them...why Ramadan programming is so singularly atrocious in it's production values and abysmal in it's content is a one big question mark. The most pandering, shoddy, poorly produced garbage is to be found on 2m: topping or next to the worst of stoned college radio, high-school drama and children's entertainment anywhere else in the world. The talent is definitely here in Morocco : Abdul Haqq Zarwali, Mohammed Khouy, Touria Alaoui... It's just as my dear friends say here in Fes, the production teams just cannot "make the finish."
A preliminary breakdown of the schedule published Wednesday (August 27th) by L'Economiste lists the following programmes: "Mbarak ou Massoûd", a new sitcom inspired by daily life; interviews by Rachid and Hicham of stars including Khaled, Alpha Blondy, Amel Bent and Chimène Badi; the return of sitcom "Sir Hta Dji", traditional programme "Rommana wa Bartal" and crime drama "Al Qadia".

Also on offer are sketch comedy shows, musical performances in the Sufi, Malhoun and Aïssaoua styles, and a variety of Moroccan and international cinema. 2M will air an original mini-series, "Les hirondelles reviennent toujours" (The Sparrows Always Return), as well as Moroccan films each Tuesday night: "Wake Up Morocco" by Narjiss Nejjar, "Mémoire en detention" by Jilali Ferhati, "Moroccan Dream" from Jamal Belmejdoub, "Tilila" from Mohamed Mernich and "Les cœurs brûlés" by Ahmed El Maouni.

Despite promises made by officials in the past to cater to all tastes and promote Moroccan shows, the public still criticise the unreliability of presenters and the production mistakes that mar the locally-produced programmes.

Student Samira Boulfatah told Magharebia that television viewers are often "ashamed of Moroccan shows, which patronise Moroccans. The same faces come back every year with almost the same material, even repeating their mistakes."



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Tuesday, September 02, 2008

Fez Festival of Sufi Culture 2009 - dates announced



News from festival director Faouzi Skali is that the next edition of the Fez Festival of Sufi Culture: "A soul for globalization" will take place from the 18th to the 25th April 2009. It will be entitled: Cultures of Sufism

La prochaine édition du Festival de Fès de la Culture Soufie : « Une âme pour la mondialisation » aura lieu du 18 au 25 avril 2009 sous l'intitulé Cultures du soufisme.


أصدقائي الأعزاء، تنعقد الدورة المقبلة لمهرجان فاس للثقافة الصوفية »روح للعولمة «من 18 إلى 25 أبريل 2009، تحت شعار : » ثقافات التصوف.«

سوف نخبركم فيما بعد بالبرنامج التفصيلي للتظاهرة. لا تنسوا حجز تواريخكم !



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EasyJet reschedules flights to and from Morocco



As we reported earlier, Morocco will now end its daylight saving time sooner than expected, between midnight on 31-Aug-08 and 01-Sept-08. Due to this unforeseen local time change, EasyJet has rescheduled flights departing to and from Morocco between 01-Sept-08 and 27-Sept-08.

According to the airline, if your flight has been rescheduled by more than one hour you may transfer your seat free of charge on to another EasyJet flight to the same destination (subject to availability) for travel within the following seven day period by making arrangements.

Should you decide not to travel, you can cancel your seat and receive a credit file (inclusive of all taxes, charges but exclusive of the credit card, name change or transfer fees) for the affected journey.

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Morocco and Russia forge strong partnerships


At a time when most Western nations were foaming at the mouth over Russia's intervention in Georgia to protect the South Ossetian and Abkhazi minorities, it was refreshing to see several countries move towards strengthening ties and friendship with Russia. One of the first to step up was Morocco.


Foreign Minister, Taieb Fassi Fihri

One clear example Morocco's independent foreign policy stance occurred on Monday when Morocco and Russia hailed the quality of their bilateral relations and the volume of exchanges, and voiced will to further reinforce them.

This came in an exchange of messages between Foreign Minister, Taieb Fassi Fihri, and his Russian counterpart Sergei Lavrov, on the fiftieth anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic ties between the two countries.

In his message, Fihri underlined the "level of our economic, scientific and technical cooperation which covers strategic fields as evidenced by the results of the 3rd high joint commission held past April in Rabat."

The minister also stressed the will of king Mohammed VI to work in coordination with president Dmitri Medvedev to further boost relations, and efficiently implement the strategic partnership declaration between the two countries.

Fihri voiced hope this celebration would open “a new page of fruitful cooperation” on the issues of interest to both countries in an “increasingly globalized world where new security dangers are requiring a collective response that respects the international legality and the territorial integrity of States.”

Sergei Lavrov

For his part, the Russian FM stressed Moscow’s will to “go forward in all the fields for the good of our two countries, and in order to reinforce security and stability in the Maghreb, the Mediterranean and the entire world.”

Hailing the political dialogue between the two countries and the simmilarity of their approaches to outstanding international and regional issues, including the settlement of the Middle East conflict, the promotion of sustained development in Africa and the struggle against terrorism and religious extremism, the Russian official noted that bilateral relations were marked since the outset by “genuine equality, mutual respect and trust”, and that bilateral cooperation has reached the level set by the strategic partnership declaration.


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Monday, September 01, 2008

Ramadan in Morocco



The team at The View from Fez wishes all our readers a happy Ramadan



King Mohammed VI addressed congratulation messages to heads of Islamic States on the occasion of the holy month of Ramadan.


"The Islamic world, which welcomes this blessed month in a perfect state of repentance and recollection, meditates on its sacred character and spiritual dimension and takes the just measure of values of solidarity, Islamic and human compassion . These are noble feelings shared by all Muslims who perform the obligations of fasting, praying and meditating with an ardent faith and sincere hope to receive blessings and divine indulgence." - HM Mohammed VI

The king went on to say..."Ramadan is therefore an opportune moment for the Islamic Ummah to reaffirm its faith, leadership and commitment to the doctrine of tolerant Islam, and it is also an opportunity to translate into reality the noble ideals of moderation and balance, as advocated by Islam."

The sovereign also reiterated Morocco's support for the Arab causes, and called for concerted actions to materialize the Arab Maghreb Union.

The messages were addressed by the Sovereign to several Muslim heads of States including those of Algeria, Libya, Mauritania, Tunisia, Palestine, Iraq and Lebanon.

Ramadan, which will start Tuesday in Morocco, is the most venerated month of the Islamic year and one of the five pillars of Islam. It is a religious observance marked by prayers, charity and mainly fasting from sunrise to sunset.


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