Monday, May 29, 2006

Tragedy in Fez medina

Earlier to day reports came through of a house collapse in the medina. First indications are that only one person was killed - a pregnant woman. At a time when so much work needs to be done to preserve the medina, events like this serve to remind us of how much work is urgently needed, and the tragic cost of not restoring the old houses. Our sympathy goes to the family of the dead woman.

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Sunday, May 28, 2006

Ryanair set to develop 20 routes to Morocco

Ryanair announced today that it had made a five-year agreement with Morocco to develop up to 20 routes aimed at carrying one million passengers a year. We found it frustrating that they do not mention which routes - but time will tell - inshallah.

'Ryanair will be making many more new route announcements in Morocco over the coming months and years as we build on the solid basis which this long term agreement provides', the airline's Deputy Chief Executive Michael Cawley said in a statement.

Today's news marks the culmination of discussions between the airline and the Moroccan Government which have taken place over the last six months. The agreement covers most of the regional airports in the country.

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The View from Fez in Fez



Just a quick update - yes, you guessed it - still no internet. We begin to suspect that Maroc Telecom is a fantasy that we dreamed up. Do they exist? And what happened to the technician that was going to turn up several days ago? Does he or she exist? We doubt it. Maybe, when my computer complains about the lack of dial tone, it is true - maybe all the dial tones in Morocco have been used up and there is none to spare for us. It seems all we need is dial tone, so, if you have some spare dial tone, we would love you to email it to us.

Apart from that we have progress on the house and much fun with friends and Moroccan cats. More to follow - when the internet is allowed a little dial tone.

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New exhibition in Fez




Back on the 5th of this month I posted about the Orientalist Art Gallery run by the very friendly Aziz Karmouni and the work on display under the title of “My Morocco” by by Marion Fawlk and Kate Kvalvik. Now there is a new exhibition of work by Mohamed Krich.

Krich is a well known Moroccan artist. The work on display is a series of some 32 works in oil ranging from smaller works to a magnificent Vue de Fez - a panorama across the medina which any art lover would kill to own.

Mohamed Krich


In some ways the works are a romantic longing for the past and as such work extremely well. From smaller works like Le Grand Moussam to artfull capturing to the Talaa el Kbira, the paintings all manage to capture more than simply a sense of place, they have the spirit of Fez. The exhibition is certainly worth a visit.

Take time to introduce yourself to the owner Aziz Karmouni (pictured below) and find out what he has planned for the future.


The exhibition is at 38 Rue Adelaziz Boutaleb until 18 06 2006

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Bono in Fez confirmed

As you know we have been following the on again off again rumours of the arrival in Fez of Bono. Just a line to let you know that Bono is confirmed for the Fes Forum, but we do not yet know which date he will make his appearance. As soon as I hear this I will let you know.

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Thursday, May 25, 2006

Football win - but still no internet

When the internet is still not connected. And the wind is blowing a gale, there are some things to cheer me up. Our builder and architect like each other and work has started. The kitchen is moving to the courtyard while the work begins. The sun is warm, the plumber is fixing the hammam and then there is the football. Substitute Mohamed Madihi scored in the 90th minute to give Morocco a 1-0 win over the United States on Tuesday. Yay Morocco!

The Atlas Lions won a disappointing game in Nashville, Tennessee, as the World Cup-bound Americans struggled to find their rhythm.

It was the first match for the US since coach Bruce Arena announced his squad for next month's finals in Germany.

But a hamstring injury to captain Claudio Reyna will have done little to temper Arena's mood.

The goal came when Bouchaib El Moubarki won the ball off Steve Cherundolo and released fellow substitute Madihi who ran unchallenged into the area before beating Kasey Keller with a clinical finish.

"I took a bad touch, and they took advantage of it," Cherundolo said. "Mistakes are a big part of this game."

The US nearly grabbed a stoppage-time equaliser but a blistering free-kick from Bobby Convey went inches wide.

Minus a player or two, Arena fielded what is projected to be his first team for the World Cup with Keller, Eddie Pope, Reyna, Landon Donovan and Brian McBride all starting.

But the US did not produce a shot on target until the 52nd minute when second-half substitute Convey tested goalkeeper Tarek El Jarmouni with a shot from outside the box.

A minute later the home side survived a scare when Talal El Karkouri saw his header off a Zakaria Aboub free-kick go over the bar with Keller clearly beaten.

Morocco, one of Africa's strongest teams, did not qualify for the 32-nation World Cup finals.



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Tuesday, May 23, 2006

Waterfront views from the Medina?


Now, while it is true that many weird and wonderful rumours sweep through the Medina (the price of brass will double because of international oil prices - hence your brass lamp MUST be bought today to save!) the latest is simply wonderful. A tsunami will be caused by pieces of a comet that will hit the Atlantic Ocean!!! Not only did this story gain some believers, the story was so widespread that the Moroccan Meteorological office has gone as far as proclaiming an official denial.

This denial comes after the Ufological Research Center warned on its website of a tsunami danger that would affect several countries, including Morocco.

Eric Julien, author of La Science Des Extraterrestres made an alert in his website about tsunami.

He claims that he has received information psychically, which is corroborated by scientific data, according to which on May 25, 2006 a giant tsunami will occur in the Atlantic Ocean, brought about by the impact of a comet fragment which will provoke the eruption of under-sea volcanoes.

He said that waves up to 200 m high will reach coastlines located above and below the Tropic of Cancer. He added that all of the countries bordering the Atlantic will be affected to greater or lesser destructive and deadly levels.

However, the head of the Meteorological Office, Mustapha Janah, told MAP news agency "the Ufological Research Center does not have technical means" to observe this kind of phenomenon.

Citing the American space agency "NASA," the official noted that the comet will pass away from planet earth at about 10 million kilometres, excluding hence any risk of a tsunami in the Atlantic Ocean.

The last tsunami hit the Indian Ocean on Dec. 26, 2004. It was caused by a 9- magnitude earthquake which killed nearly 150,000 people throughout the region, and left more than 1.5 million homeless.

The 2004 tsunami is the worst in recorded history. Prior to 2004, the deadliest recorded tsunami in the Pacific Ocean was in 1782, when 40,000 people were killed by a tsunami in the South China Sea.

The tsunami created by the 1883 eruption of Krakatoa is thought to have resulted in 36,000 deaths.

The most deadly tsunami between 1900 and 2004 occurred in 1908 in Messina, Italy, on the Mediterranean Sea, where the earthquake and tsunami killed 70,000.

The most deadly tsunami in the Atlantic Ocean resulted from the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, which, combined with the toll from the actual earthquake and resulting fires, killed over 100,000.

So for all of you people in Fez busy building an arc with zellij floors, grand salons and extra room for the donkey... relax, and do not expect to wake up any day soon with a waterfront view!

Oh, and by the way, there is a rumour that we will have the internet on some day soon... inshallah.

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Monday, May 22, 2006

Lack of progress

After a burst of activity on the issue of phones and the internet, we have come to a grinding halt. The phone is installed, the wireless modem is happily flashing away ... but, only incoming calls on the phone and no internet. In the meantime a gang of colourful characters are in the medina looking to buy houses - a bit overwhelming, but more of that later. Our builder is arriving today - inshallah - and maybe, just maybe, Maroc telecom will connect us to the world. In the meantime, life is good.

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Friday, May 19, 2006

Isn't Morocco lucky?

Oh dear, why was I not impressed with the latest little bit of reality television?The hot news that Peaches Geldof has been 'roughing it' in Morocco with a Muslim family as part of a new Channel 4 religious series, Getting God sort of leaves me shuddering - that poor family.

Daughter of Live 8 organiser Bob Geldof, Peaches lived with an 18-year-old Muslim girl and her family during the filming.

A spokeswoman for Channel 4 tells me that this "must see" show sees Peaches travelling "to the Atlas Mountains to expel her demons" and "attending a taking the veil ceremony, the spirtual entry into adulthood for Muslim girls."

She added, "The interesting thing is how she coped and how this Islamic family makes of this precocious London party girl."

Yawn anyone?

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Progress!

The telephone is now on at Riad Zany and they promise the internet soon - inshallah!
The modem is hooked up and we wait....

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Thursday, May 18, 2006

Still waiting for internet

Fez has been hit by a sudden unseasonal heatwave and so we are sipping mint tea and enjoying the cool in our riad while awaiting Maroc Telecom to connect the internet. The technicians were expected yesterday, but no sign of them. Maybe today - inshallah.

Even though it is early in the season, there are bus loads of tourists arriving every day at the gates of the medina at R'cif and Batha. So business in the medina is booming and the locals seem happy.

Planning permission for our riad is taking an age, but we now have a fine architect and the prospect of some workmen soon. A cold shower in our small hamam is a great relief in the heat - more soon, and back to normal posting when Maroc telecom arrive.

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Monday, May 15, 2006

Sahel region terror threat ?

Morocco fears Africa’s Sahel region may become a stepping stone for Al Qaeda-linked fighters sneaking into the Maghreb and Europe to carry out suicide bombings, its interior minister said.

Morocco remains on high alert after suicide attacks killed 45 people in Casablanca three years ago.

"All the participants (in the war against terrorism) in Europe and the Maghreb are aware that this is a region which merits more attention ... We must be extremely vigilant," Interior Minister Chakib Benmoussa said in an interview late on Saturday.

The Sahel region, which stretches from Mauritania on Africa’s western coast through northern Mali, Niger and Chad, is now synonymous with banditry, smuggling and illegal migration.

Now the same desert routes could be used by militants to smuggle bombers and weapons into Europe and the Maghreb, Benmoussa said. Security sources say they suspect the region is also being used to house militants’ makeshift training bases.

Benmoussa said top security officials from the five Maghreb states and their European Mediterranean counterparts would meet this year to update their assessment of the security threat from the Sahel and mull ways to expand their co-operation against it.

"We are all on the same side in the war against terrorism. For Morocco, Mauritania, Tunisia ... France, Italy Spain and others it is a common war against terrorist networks which feed one another," he said.

Security sources have said Moroccan police in April arrested five suspected Al Qaeda members who were part of French and Italian cells planning to carry out attacks in France and Italy.

They said one of the arrested men had travelled to Algeria to meet a contact from the Al Qaeda-linked Salafist Group for Preaching and Combat (GSPC) to discuss the planned attacks.

The GSPC, which is Algeria’s most radical rebel group, was behind the kidnapping of 32 European tourists in the Sahara desert in 2003 as well as an attack on a military base in Mauritania in 2005.

Turning to the domestic fight against terrorism, Benmoussa said security forces had been successful in busting more than 50 cells with more than 2,000 members since the May 16, 2003 bombings in Casablanca, mainly thanks to popular support. "The population is backing the government and the security authorities in the fight against terrorism. The population rejects terrorism and extremism and that is the government’s main asset and advantage in the war against terrorism," he said


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Lahcen's Moroccan Cooking Lessons

A few days ago we posted about Lahcen's Moroccan Cooking Lessons. Now we can report we have had the pleasure of meeting up with Lahcen and sampled his fine cooking. The event took place at Dar Seferine where we had been invited for a meal by a very interesting American couple, Deborah and David. Earlier in the day they hhad visited the souqs with Lahcen to buy the ingredients and described the experience as wonderful. So if you are in Fez we can certainly suggest you hook up with Lahcen to discover the secrets of Moroccan cuisine. He is contactable via his website: Lahcen's Moroccan Cooking Lessons.Tags:

Death not bird flu

Results of a post-mortem examination of a poultry market worker whose death prompted rumors he might have died from bird flu, showed the 42-year-old man died from a pulmonary bleeding.

Leading pro-government Arabic-language newspaper al Attihad al Ichtiraqi said last week that the death in Casablanca's biggest poultry 10 days ago was the second within five months.

The report prompted rumors that the cases might be caused by the H5N1 virus.

"No epidemiological element in the case might point to a bird flu according to the definition established by the World Health Organization said the Health Ministry in a statement.

The ministry said a six-member committee studied the results of the post-mortem examination and concluded the case was not a death from bird flu.

It named the committee members as leading doctors working in the country's main Casablanca Ibn Rochd hospital, adding the heavy-smoker man died of a pulmonary bleeding due to a severe lungs infection.

Fears of a bird flu outbreak have lessened in recent weeks and poultry sales have begun to revive, traders said.



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Thursday, May 11, 2006

Hicham Nazzal in Scorpion


The French Moroccan animator and actor, Hicham Nazzal, is expected to play his first role in the full length film “Scorpion” starting from May 12.

Spotted at the Moroccan 2M's TV broadcast “15 Years, 15 Talents”, the 27-year French Moroccan animator seems to dig the path of glory in the French cinema.

After assuring his brilliant performances in Morocco by animating the “Studio 2M” shows last year, together with his Moroccan colleague Nabila Kilani, and reporting a live daily journal of Cannes Festival 2005, Nazzal made his first entry into the 7th art world.

He first appeared in one of the ‘Navarro' series, with Roger Hanin, in 2001. He then participated at the TV game “Fort Boyard” with the Miss France team.

In 2005, Nazzal played the role of Karim in Dominique Ladoge's 100 min film “Dénonciation calomnieuse” (slanderous denunciation).

He also succeeded in obtaining a “small role” in Steven Spielberg's film “Munich”.

The young actor still hides lots of talent. Fan of cinema, music and athletics, he speaks fluent English and Spanish.

His uniqueness resides in his dynamism and tireless energy.


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Bill to ban child labour in Morocco

The Moroccan government is preparing a law to ban child labour and in particular the use of children as domestic servants.



Yasmnia Baddou (pictured above), Morocco's secretary of state for family, childhood and the disabled, told a press conference on Tuesday that the law aimed to "create a Morocco that is worthy of its children" and would focus on "regulating domestic labour and punish all use of little girls as maids."

According to the US rights group Human Rights Watch, Morocco has one of the highest child labour rates in the Middle East and North Africa.

Moroccan law bans children under 15 from working.

However, a survey carried out by Morocco's employment ministry, the rights group International Programme on the Elimination of Child Labour (IPEC) and the World Bank, cited by the Maghreb Arabe Press news agency, found that some 600,000 children between the ages of seven and 14 work in Morocco - 11 percent of the country's children in that age group.

The Human Rights Watch's report issued in December last year said that "girls as young as five work 100 or more hours per week, without rest breaks or days off for as little as six and a half Moroccan dirhams (about 70 US cents) a day. These girls are often exposed to physical and even sexual abuse and denied schooling."

The US-based rights group blamed the Moroccan cabinet for neglecting children's rights.

The draft bill is reportedly also aimed at fighting recruitment networks, especially in poor rural areas where child labour is most widespread.


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Exciting new Fez website.



It is always exciting to discover a new website dedicated to the city of Fez. The latest addition is also one of the best and is certainly worth a visit if you have any interest in visiting Fez, or finding out about the intricacies of building, buying or renovating in Fez.

The authors of the site, Jenny Barnard and Jonathan Green, are young, funky and extremely competent. Their expertise has been hard won through the experience of purchasing and renovating their own dar (house).

For those interested in the debate between renovation and conservation will find Barnard and Green in the mid-range of the spectrum of that runs between purist conservation at one end to total renovation at the other. Their style of conservation-renovation is very much in keeping with the best techniques of preserving the heritage values of the Medina and is to be applauded.

Of special interest is their web diary describing the process of renovating their first house near the Talaa Sghira. (see it here: Renovation Blog)

Included on their site is a comprehensive amount of practical information right down to details of how to navigate the bureaucracy in order to install telephone and internet connections on the Medina. For anyone with a genuine desire to get involved in Fez other than as a casual tourist, this site is a must.

What if you hate renovation?



There are many people for whom spending the time and effort of renovating in Fez is either not practical or something they would not enjoy. Barnard and Green have arrived at a practical solution. Through them you can purchase a delightfully renovated house and save yourself the time, energy and hassle. What is special about this service is that the principals of conservation-renovation are applied to all their properties and so you can be assured that where possible the structure, interiors and fittings have been brought together with great care and attention.

You will find more information and contact details on their website: Fesmorocco.com

Or email them: enquires@fesmorocco.com



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A window on Morocco

It’s not very often that a majority of the ex-pat community in Fez get together – but this week saw them congregate for a rare event – the launch of a new photographic exhibition. The venue was the Orientalist Art Gallery run by the friendly Karmouni Aziz and the work on display under the title of “My Morocco” was by Marion Fawlk and Kate Kvalvik.

English woman Marion Fawlk’s work is a series of large, full colour prints, accompanied by a short text in both French and English that give a poetic and, at times, a spiritual response to the subject matter. All of the work is interesting and reflects an immediate reaction to a new country and culture. With a fine eye for her subject matter she has transcended the normal tourist view and gone deeper into colour and texture. For me the best work was a finely composed photograph of a scrap of tattered text on a post, a work that could certainly find a home amidst any collection of . The colour and framing producing a work that could endure many hours of contemplation. The other work that attracted me was of a sun drenched alley in Marrakech. The golden luminosity of the image was an invitation into the hidden heart of the medina.

Where Fawlk is less secure is with a couple of the works that include people. One, of a handsome young Moroccan man is a little too posed and an otherwise interesting image of a woman weaving would have been enhanced by a more creative use of lighting to give the subject matter more depth. Overall her work is of a fine standard and certainly deserves more than a cursory look.

Kate Kvalvik is a Norwegian whose familiarity with Morocco is immediately apparent. The decision to work in a black and white square format is an interesting one that could easily have produced difficult composition and framing issues, but Kvalvik’s background as a graphic artist and book designer give her the skills and experience to more than rise to the occasion. The focus of her work is on Moroccans in various parts of Morocco and is highly successful. A portrait of a strong Berber woman in traditional dress against a mountainous background is a real standout. There is also, we must confess, an interesting detail of our own Riad Zany – a view of an old doorway, a portrait of HM King Mohammed VI and a lemon tree – that I found intriguing.

The exhibition, that runs until May 23 and deserves a visit. You will find the Orientalist Art Gallery at 38 Abdelaziz Boutaleb in the Ville Nouvelle.

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Tuesday, May 09, 2006

More news from the Fez Festival


- ROUND TABLES -

Mornings: from 08h45 to 12h30 at ‘Musée Batha’ Afternoons: from 18h00 to 19h30 at ‘la Salle de la Prefecture’

Saturday 3 June : Spiritual Values and Economy

Moderators: Mohammed Kabbaj, Faouzi Skali, Katherine Marshall, Philippe Douste-Blasy

Morning : Rachid Arhab, Rachid Benmokthar, Francisco de Bourbon, Elizabeth Guigou, Albert Mallet, Henri Panhuys, Majid Rahnema,Yazid Sabeg, Patrick Viveret.

Afternoon : Benjamin Barber, Othmane Benjelloun, Bertrand Collomb, Marc Luyckx Ghisi, Dominique Strauss Kahn.


Sunday 4 June

Riches and Poverties

Moderators: Faouzi Skali, Katherine Marshall, Wim Wenders

Morning : Jacques Attali, Roland Cayrol, Emmanuel Dierckx de Casterlé, Steve Gentili, Simon Xavier GuerrandHermès, Jean-Louis Guigou, Majid Rahnema, Azziz Senni, Hassan Zaoual.

Afternoon : Patrice Barrat, Susan Collin Marks, Emmanuel N’Dione, Robert Reznik, Siddartha.

Monday 5 June : Islam and Globalization

Moderators : Faouzi Skali, Katherine Marshall

Morning : Ahmed Abbadi, Amal Arfaoui, Hamid Barrada, Jean-Pierre Chevènement, Abdou Filali Ansari, Ghassan Salamé, Kristiane Backer.

Afternoon : Aryana Farshad, Abderrahim Hafidi, Chems Eddine Hafiz, Adil Jazouli.

Tuesday 6 June : Forgiveness

Moderators: Faouzi Skali, Katherine Marshall
Morning «Learning to Forgive»: Assia Alaoui Bensalah, André Azoulay, Nadia Benjelloun, Pascal Boniface, Leila Chahid, Jean-Pierre Chevènement, Aisheh Hashem Nimer Aqtam, Johns Marks, Mireille Mendès-France, Michael Möller, Nurit Peled, Jean-Claude Petit, Yaël Reinharz Hazan, Driss El Yazami.
Afternoon «Forgiveness» : Sheikh Abdulaziz Bukhari, Henri Bonnier, Rabbi Hirschfield, Gunnar Stalsett.


Wednesday 7 JuneSpirituality and Ecology

Moderators: Faouzi Skali, Jean-Marie Pelt

Morning : Katia Légeret, Nicolas Moller, Pierre Rabhi, Jonathan Rose, Rupert Sheldrake, Siddhartha


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No we are not dead!

Salam, from Fez. We have arrived and are settling back into the hustle and hassles of Fez. It is truly wonderful to be back and Zany and I will start posting as soon as we get the internet connected as to use the Arabic keyboard in a cafe is frustrating!

Thank you to the readers who sent us kind wishes for the flight aand also those who left comments (including Sarah Mansour - our favourite Moroccan Olypic skier! Shukran bazef Sarah).

More later, inshallah.

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Tuesday, May 02, 2006

Flying to Morocco.

This is the last post before we fly in two hours time to Dubai for a couple of days and then Casablanca and an overnight in Rabat before arriving in Fes on May 7, inshallah. We will post again shortly after that. Thank you for you ongoing support of The View from Fez.

SEE YOU IN FEZ!

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Monday, May 01, 2006

Haifa Wahbi dumps on Morocco

Lebanese singer Haifa Wahbi appears to be in self-destruct mode. First she decided she wanted to take control of her own affairs and then she stacked on a hissy fit about Morocco. All of which would be pretty ho-hum and boringly typical pampered starlet behaviour, if it wasn't that she appears to be losing control of her career.

Now, in the latest drama, she has really spat the dummy and requested that her business manager cancel all trips to Morocco and to refuse all requests to hold concerts or interviews with the Moroccan press.

Apparently Haifa’s decision is due to what she thought was the mistreatment she faced during her recent visit to Morocco. Haifa claims she was searched in an inappropriate manner by a female security officer at the airport. When Haifa asked why she was being mistreated, the officer said that she simply does not like her. Well, Haifa dear, not everyone is an adoring fan.

In addition, during an interview Haifa held with a Moroccan television station she walked off the set after reviewing the pre-prepared questions, claiming they were drafted to insult her.
Meanwhile, Haifa has begun the countdown for the release of her upcoming album. She seems to have made a mistake in deciding to produced the album herself, although assigned 'Rotana' the responsibility of distribution.

And there's more. Haifa's newest music video music video for the song "Boos Al Wawa" (Kiss the Booboo), has received criticism for being inappropriate, not to mention silly. Filming of the clip lasted for three days.

In the clip Haifa plays a babysitter who is hired by a couple to take care of their one year old child. She begins to care for the child, feeding him and attending to his needs, and suddenly her lover appears, played by an Italian model. Haifa takes the baby with her to meet him.

Haifa was recently in Cairo to record songs for her upcoming album, scheduled for release in the near future. The singer also held work sessions with a number of composers.

Haifa recently gave a performance in Syria, and will begin a tour around the Arab world stopping in Lebanon, Qatar, UAE, and Egypt. The singer explained that she wanted to try something new outside production company guidelines, and so decided to produce her own album. Maybe an asprin and a good lie down would be a good idea.

See our earlier stories: Haifa? What's the fuss?


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Responsible donkey ownership?


The first big decision in Morocco will be - which donkey? The trouble is we are not sure if we are a one or two donkey family. What model to choose? With the rising worldwide prices of oats, can we afford a four-leg drive? Or should we go for a cheaper oat-saving two-leg version. As the world heads towards what the pessimists are calling "peak oats", we want to do our bit and move to a more sustainable donkey. Having walked behind many donkeys, I certainly know that there are wind and gas models available.



Research has failed to develop a solar-powered donkey, in fact the more sun, the slower they get, so maybe I can find a scientist willing to test my hypothesis about the suitability of a moon-powered version.

Just for the record, Zany has been test driving the various models and likes the white one (above) but wants it with airbags and black racing stripe. And, before anyone comments, those pics are probably both mules!

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