Thursday, November 27, 2008

A thought for the day!


In the first three weeks since the election, President-elect Barack Obama has broken with a tradition established over the past eight years through his controversial use of complete sentences, political observers say. One of our regular readers has sent us this...


Millions of Americans who watched Mr. Obama's appearance on CBS' "Sixty Minutes" on Sunday witnessed the president-elect's unorthodox verbal tick, which had Mr.Obama employing grammatically correct sentences virtually every time he opened his mouth.

However, Mr. Obama's decision to use complete sentences in his public pronouncements carries with it certain risks, since after the last eight years many Americans may find his odd speaking style jarring. According to presidential historian Davis Logsdon of the University of Minnesota, some Americans might find it "alienating" to have a President who speaks English as if it were his first language. "Every time Obama opens his mouth, his subjects and verbs are in agreement," says Mr. Logsdon. "If he keeps it up, he is running the risk of sounding like an elitist." The historian said that if Mr. Obama insists on using complete sentences in his speeches, the public may find itself saying, "Okay, subject, predicate, subject predicate - we get it, stop showing off."

The President-elect's stubborn insistence on using complete sentences has already attracted a rebuke from one of his harshest critics, Gov. Sarah Palin of Alaska. "Talking with complete sentences there and also too talking in a way that ordinary Americans like Joe the Plumber and Tito the Builder can't really do there, I think needing to do that isn't tapping into what Americans are needing also," she said.

Maybe the President elect can take de-elocution lessons from George Bush.


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The delicate art of Moroccan henna


Henna is used in Morocco to dye the skin in intricate patterns, sometimes called temporary tattoos. Henna is an integral part of many celebrations in Morocco and it is quite common to see henna on women's hands and feet for weddings and special occasions. Although the use of henna at weddings is well known, it is also commonly used with the ceremonies for Id al-Adha and male circumcision.

The anthropologist, Catherine Cartwright-Jones, points out that "the designs are often variants on the traditional North African "Khamsa” pattern: a cross with four dots surrounding; a square, circle or diamond shape with one dot within and four surrounding; hand shapes, and variations on these. People applied henna and the “Khamsa” patterns to avert the “Evil Eye”.

For visitors it is a popular experience to have henna applied, particularly for women.

It is also possible to buy henna patterns so that you can apply henna once you return home. The best place to buy henna and henna patterns is in the Henna Souq off the Tala'a Kbira

The application of henna is time consuming and you should expect to spend at least an hour for the artist to complete the design. Then it is time to wrap the hands gently in cotton cloth in order to protect them from damage during the drying period. The longer the hands are protected the better.

The design will normally last for a couple of weeks or more, with the palms usually lasting the longest.


According to Wikipedia: the different words for henna in ancient languages imply that henna had more than one point of discovery and origin, and different pathways of daily and ceremonial use.

Linda Zahava - Khamsa - (detail)

The history of henna

Henna has been used to adorn young women’s bodies as part of social and holiday celebrations since the late Bronze Age in the eastern Mediterranean. The earliest text mentioning henna in the context of marriage and fertility celebrations comes from the Ugaritic legend of Baal and Anath, which has references to women marking themselves with henna in preparation to meet their husbands, and Anath adorning herself with henna to celebrate a victory over the enemies of Baal. Wall paintings excavated at Akrotiri (dating prior to the eruption of Thera in 1680 BCE) show women with markings consistent with henna on their nails, palms and soles, in a tableau consistent with the henna bridal description from Ugarit Many statuettes of young women dating between 1500 and 500 BCE along the Mediterranean coastline have raised hands with markings consistent with henna. This early connection between young, fertile women and henna seems to be the origin of the Night of the Henna.

Linda Zahava's Henna Designs.

The Night of the Henna has spread around the world and is celebrated by most groups in the areas where henna grew naturally: Jews, Muslims, Hindus, Christians and Zoroastrians. All these cultures celebrated marriages by adorning the bride, and often the groom, with henna.

Henna workshops at Cafe Clock

A Warning about "black henna"

In the 1990s, henna artists in Africa, India, the Arabian Peninsula and the West began to experiment with para-phenylenediamine (PPD) based black .hair dye, applying it as a thick paste as they would apply henna, in an effort to find something that would quickly make jet black temporary body art. PPD can cause severe allergic reactions, with blistering, intense itching, permanent scarring, and permanent chemical sensitivities. Henna boosted with PPD can cause lifelong health damage.

Para-phenylenediamine is illegal for use on skin in western countries, though enforcement is lax. When used in hair dye, the PPD amount must be below 6%, and application instructions warn that the dye not touch the scalp and the dye must be quickly rinsed away. “Black henna” pastes have PPD percentages from 10% to 60%, and are left on the skin for half an hour.

Para-phenylenediamine “black henna” use is widespread, particularly in tourist areas. Because the blistering reaction appears 3 to 12 days after the application, most tourists have left and do not return to show how much damage the artist has done. This permits the artists to continue injuring others, unaware they are causing severe injuries. The high profit margins of ‘black henna” and the demand for body art that emulates “tribal tattoos” further encourage artists to ignore the dangers. It is not difficult to recognize and avoid para-phenylenediamine “black henna”:

  • if a paste stains torso skin black in less than ½ hour, it has PPD in it, and little or no henna.
  • if the paste is mixed with peroxide, or if peroxide is wiped over the design to bring out the color, it has PPD in it, and little or no henna.

Anyone who has an itching and blistering reaction to a black body stain should go to a doctor, and report that they have had an application of para-phenylenediamine to their skin.

A woman walking while her henna dries


Photo credits: Sandy McCutcheon

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Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Caring for the blind in Morocco


Nouzha Skalli

Speaking at the opening ceremony of the 4th Forum of the African Union of the Blind (AFUB), chaired by Princess Lalla Lamia, President of the Alaouite Organization of the Promotion of the Blind in Morocco (OAPAM), Social Development, Family and Solidarity minister, Nouzha Skalli, said that the national survey on disabilities showed that the prevalence of visual disability is estimated at 28% among the disabled population in Morocco.

There are 157,900 blind and partially sighted people in Morocco, including 46.6% of women, minister Skalli, said,

Skalli stressed the importance of this forum which is part of the momentum witnessed by African societies and efforts aiming to improve management of the issue of visual disability among women in Africa.

She also highlighted the important role played by African countries in the development and adoption of the Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities (December 13, 2006), recalling that Morocco has launched the ratification process of this Convention which was adopted recently by the Government.

Themed "Now is the right time for significant inclusion", the forum, which will be followed by the 6th AFUB General Assembly with delegations representing 50 African countries.


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Dar Ba Mohamed Chergui



Recently our heritage editor, Helen Ranger, reported on the sale of Dar Ba Mohamed Chergui, situated on Derb el Horra in the Fez Medina.

One of the central courtyards

According to Helen Ranger, "the complex, along with the massive palace opposite, Dar Ouezzane, has been sold to a consortium of businessmen from Saudi Arabia, Germany and Switzerland for an undisclosed sum (thought to be in region of several million Euros). Dar Ouezzane alone had at least 20-25 inheritors, so it must have been some deal."

The idea is to restore the buildings and convert them into a 28-room hotel which will include a passerelle or bridge over Derb el Horra to connect between the two.

Just to give those who have never visited Dar ba Mohamed Chergui an idea of what is at stake, we sent our intrepid photographer Zany along to take some photographs:

The unique garden featuring star-shaped zellij planters

Interior and detail (below)


Photographs: Suzanna Clarke.

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Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Café Clock & Clock Culture



Welcome to this weeks program @ Café Clock

Tuesday 25 Nov : 9- 10a.m.
Yoga @ the Clock
Bring a Mat : 50 dh ( discounts available )

Tuesday 25 Nov : 6 p.m.
Soireè Poetique (Free)
Poetry readings in different languages accompanied by an oude.

Wednesday 26 Nov – 10 - 12 am
Dariija Conversation ( level 1 and 2 )
40 dh (discounts available)

Thursday 27 Nov : 9 – 10 a.m.
Yoga @ the Clock
Bring a Mat : 50 dh ( discounts available )

Thursday 27 Nov - 6 p.m. ( Free )
Film : Adaptation
Nicolas Cage and Meryl Streep in an academy award winning film.

Sunday 30 Nov : 11 a.m – 12:30 am
Oriental Dance @ the Clock with Fes choreographer and dancer Asmae Kouli. ( 30 dh). Reserve a Place

Sunday 30 Nov : 2 p.m.
English Conversation Group. ( 50 dh )

Sunday 30 Nov – 3 - 5 p.m. Calligraphy @ the Clock
Discover the sacred art of Arabic calligraphy with teacher and artists Mohammed Charkaoui. (150 dh, discounts available)
Reserve a Place.

Sunday 30 Nov : 6 p.m. ( 20 dh )
Sunday Sunset Concert
Misnoma – Nu – jazz


www.cafeclock.com
Turn up the culture!
To contact us Cafe Clock please write to :info@cafeclock.com


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Princess Lalla Salma meets Harald Zur Hausen



Princess Lalla Salma, chairwoman of Lalla Salma Association Against Cancer (ALSC), on Saturday presided over the award ceremony of national and international ALSC prizes, on the occasion of the national day against cancer.

The international ALSC prize went to Harald Zur Hausen, laureate of the "2008 Nobel Prize for Medicine", who dedicated the majority of his works to the discovery of human papilloma viruses causing cervical cancer.

The national award was given to late Abdessadek Rabieh, a founding member of the Association who spearheaded many of the achievements of the Association.

On this occasion, princess Lalla Salma, spouse of king Mohammed VI, chaired the singing ceremony of a partnership agreement between the Association and InNaBioSanté Foundation, in the presence of Philippe Douste-Blazy, president of this foundation.

By virtue of this agreement, the two parties will carry out common actions in the fields of training, research and the exchange and transfer of expertise.

The princess also chaired the general assembly of Lalla Salma Association Against Cancer, which is a non-profit association whose general strategy is defined by the Board of Directors, chaired by the Princess. It musters 15 members, elected by the General Assembly.

The association fights cancer in Morocco through four intervention fields, as the association brings assistance to patients and relatives, and in particular improving the living condition of cancer-stricken citizens, and of their parents. It is also a source of information and prevention, in addition to providing support to the medical staff and clinical and operational research. The association also provides help and assistance for the creation of oncology centers and their equipment.

In Morocco, the association works in partnership with several bodies, institutions of the private and public sectors, and the Ministry of public health, while abroad, it has partners including international oncology centers and several bodies and associations against cancer.

Some 35,000 to 50,000 new cancer cases are documented each year in Morocco, according to a study carried out by the Association, quoting the International Agency for Research in Cancer (IARC).


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Tan-Tan festival - November 28-30.



Moroccan and foreign tourists will pour into the southern city of Tan-Tan to celebrate the desert and nomadic life, as part of the fifth Tan-Tan festival that runs from November 28th to 30th.

Nomadic tribes from all over the Moroccan Sahara, Mauritania, Mali and as far as Niger will meet in the southern city and set up tents to pay tribute to a lifestyle that a diminishing number of men and women struggle to keep alive within a globalized world.

The tents will hold thematic displays on Berber and Hassani lifestyles: cooking, marriage ceremonies, weaving, popular games, the teaching of the Koran, and the nomadic lifestyle.

Through the nights of the three-day festival, the dunes will vibrate to the sounds of concerts given by local and foreign folklore groups in wonderful spots. A special night will be held at the embouchure of Chbika river, one of the few breaks in the undulating cliffs where the flat, rocky hammada landscape of the desert meets the sure, strong currents of the Atlantic Ocean.



However, the major entertainment will incontestably be the Camel, the “desert ship”. Tourists and participants alike will queue to follow camel races, the popular sports of the desert, and camel parades that feature the best camels in the region.

The festival will feature other sports and cultural activities, such as the 2nd international road race, Hassani poetry and a movie screening.


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Princess Lalla Salma opens nuclear medicine department


In Casablanca on Monday, Princess Lalla Salma, chairwoman of Lalla Salma Association Against Cancer (ALSC), inaugurated the new nuclear medicine department at the Casablanca University Ibn Rochd hospital.
The increased capacity of the new department means that medical tests will be able to increase from 3,500 currently to 4,200 in 2009 and to 5,000 in 2010.

Princess Lalla Salma also launched a breast-cancer screening program by a mobile mammography unit. This program covers 11 prefectures and provinces in the economic capital and targets nearly 520,000 women aged 45 and over.

The mobile teams, consisting of 8 radiologists and 8 technicians, will carry out between 1,800 and 2,400 mammograms per year.


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Sunday, November 23, 2008

Last minute Clock update!

Café invites you to "Gnaoua @ the Clock" today.

Event: Gnaoua @ the Clock
What: Concert
Host: Café Clock
Start Time: Today, November 23 at 6:00pm
End Time: Today, November 23 at 7:30pm
Where: Café Clock

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Finnish actor wins Best Actor in Marrakech Film Festival


The top acting award at the Marrakesh international film festival has gone to Finnish actor Eero Aho from Oulu for his role in the Finnish film Käsky (which means "Command" in Finnish) but given the English title "Tears of April". Best actress award went to American actress Melissa Leo for her part in "Frozen River".

The Etoile d'Or (Golden Star) for the Best Movie went to "Wild Field" by Georgian-Russian director Mikhail Kalatozishvili.

The film tells the story of a young doctor who chooses to work in the , empty and deserted steppe. The villagers turn to him, not only for professional advice but also to share their daily problems with him.

The Jury Prize was awarded to Chinese movie "The Shaft" by Zhang Chi.

Some 15 entries competed for the top prize, including films from China, India, Denmark, Ireland and the Philippines. Leading the jury was American director Barry Levinson, who directed Robin Williams in "Good Morning Vietnam" and Tom Cruise in "Rain Man".


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Friday, November 21, 2008

Princess Lalla Meryem of Morocco Says NO to Violence against Women


HRH Princess Lalla Meryem of Morocco signed on to UNIFEM’s Say NO to Violence against Women campaign on her country’s behalf on 10 November. The Princess is President of the National Union of Moroccan Women and the National Monitoring Agency for Children’s Rights, and sister of His Majesty King Mohammed VI of Morocco.



In her letter to the Minister of Social Development, Family and Solidarity, she expressed her support for the global movement to end violence against women, and her commitment to the empowerment of Moroccan women and to their social, economic and cultural development.

The UNIFEM-organized Say NO to Violence against Women campaign is a global advocacy and awareness raising effort on ending violence against women, designed to support UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon’s multi-year UNiTE to End Violence against Women campaign. The UNIFEM initiative aims to demonstrate that there is an ever-growing movement of people who Say NO to violence against women and Say YES to make ending it a top priority for governments everywhere. To date, nearly 990,000 people have signed on to the campaign. All signatures collected will be delivered to Mr. Ban on 25 November 2008, the International Day for the Elimination of Violence against Women.

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The Atlas Lions roar against Zambia.


Morocco beats Zambia 3-0

In Casablanca on Wednesday, Morocco's soccer squad beat Zambia 3-0 in a friendly as part of preparations for the 2010 FIFA world cup/Africa nations' cup qualifiers. Our sports editor reports:


Three minutes into the first half, the Atlas Lions opened the scoring through midfielder Lhoucine Kharga. 21 minutes later, Porto striker Tarik Sektioui doubled the score from the penalty point after Nabil Derar was brought down in the box.

In the second half, Malaga striker, Nabil Baha, offered a third goal to the Atlas Lions following a long, beautiful pass from midfielder Merouane Zemmama.

The game was an opportunity for national manager, Roger Lemerre, to try a number of newcomers, who gave a good account of themselves in the match, especially the goalkeeper Karim Zaza.

Morocco will play Gabon, Cameroon and Togo in Group A of the 2010 Can/ World cup qualifiers.

The Atlas Lions will start the last stage of qualifiers in a home game before Gabon, before flying to Cameroon to play the Indomitable Lions. They will wrap up the first leg of the qualifiers in another home game before Togo, which participated in the latest edition of the World Cup.

The top of this group will advance to the 2010 South Africa World Cup, while the top three teams will join host Angola to take part at the 2010 Africa Cup of Nations.


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Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Going, going, gone!



Entrance to Dar Mohamed Ba Chergui

Many's the time Lumen has taken visiting friends to look around Dar Ba Mohamed Chergui, situated on Derb el Horra in the Fez medina.

For a few dirhams, the family living there could be persuaded to show you round. This time, though, she was prevented from entering by two new guards, and couldn't get past the imposing entrance, big enough to ride into and tie up your horse. The palace comprises two majestic houses, the men's quarters and the harem. One has an imposing courtyard with central fountain and huge wall fountain surrounded by magnificently painted cedarwood doors; the other a unique garden featuring star-shaped zellij planters, painted ceilings and an interesting hammam in the old house.

The View from Fez understands from local sources that the complex, along with the massive palace opposite, Dar Ouezzane, has been sold to a consortium of businessmen from Saudi Arabia, Germany and Switzerland for an undisclosed sum (thought to be in region of several million Euros). Dar Ouezzane alone had at least 20-25 inheritors, so it must have been some deal.

The idea is to restore the buildings and convert them into a 28-room hotel which will include a bridge, or passerelle, between the two, over Derb el Horra.

Derb el Horra, with Dar Ba Mohamed Chergui on the left, and Dar Ouezzane on the right

This is good news for Fez, and particularly for residents of the area who will benefit from increased security and property values. It's also good news for two splendid houses that had fallen into a serious state of disrepair. Other than selling them as potential hotels, there's really no other way that they could have been saved. Let's hope that the renovation will be sensitively done.

What Lumen would like to know is what has happened to the black-and-white photograph of the last Pasha to live in the house, that hung in one of the ground floor salons. She hopes it's survived and will have pride of place in the new hotel.

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Saturday, November 15, 2008

Kitesurfer clinches world title in Essaouira




Welsh kitesurfer Kirsty Jones has clinched her first world title.
The View from Fez sports editor, Dominick Nisbett, reports:

The 30-year-old from Carmarthenshire said it was a "dream come true" to be crowned kitesurf world wave champion at Essaouira in Morocco, Africa.

The current British champion said it capped off an "amazing year" for her as she had been leading the Kiteboard Pro World Tour going into the final round.

The professional kitesurfer made a name for herself in 2002 as the first person to kitesurf across the Irish Sea.

Speaking after winning the title on Sunday, she said: "'It's been an amazing year for me doing the KPWT world tour.

"Last year I missed out on the title by a small margin and this year I was determined to become world champion - this is my dream come true.

"The final in Morocco was by far the toughest for me as I put so much pressure on myself to win this final event."

The Morocco event was the culmination of the 10th year of the Kiteboard Pro World Tour, which also staged events in France, Portugal and Brazil.

As well as defending her crown in 2009, she plans to organise another long-distance solo kitesurf for charity.

In 2002 she inspired a new trend when she became the first person to kitesurf from Ireland to Wales, raising over £5,000.


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A House in Fez - in New York!


First we take Manhattan! Yes, it is all happening for Fez in New York this week. Apart from the ongoing celebrations of the 1200th anniversary of the founding of the Medina of Fez, there was a very special book launch hosted by Rachid Maaninou – Director, Moroccan National Tourist Office.

This week saw the launch into the American market of Suzanna Clarke's best seller, A House in Fez. The book has had a phenomenal run of success, with the first hardback edition published by Penguin in Australia, selling out within weeks of publication. Then came the launch in the UK where the book has racked up impressive sales and continues to be on the "must read" list for travellers to Morocco. The inclusion of the book in Lonely Planet's reading lists for Fez and Morocco has further boosted the books status. A new trade paperback edition of A House in Fez has also just been released in Australia in time for Christmas sales.

L-R Kathy Sagan, editor, Suzanna Clarke, author and Louise Burke, publisher of Pocket Books, an imprint of Simon and Schuster in their offices on the Avenue of the Americas.

In the USA, Simon & Schuster bought the publishing rights and have brought out a paperback version which is expected to do particularly well. Speaking from New York to The View from Fez, Suzanna Clarke says the experience has been wonderful. Between the book signings and public appearances she says she has found the time to explore the museums and art galleries. She also spoke highly of the Simon & Schuster team for their friendly and generous hosting of her in New York. "Mind you," Clarke says, "after the streets of the Medina, being driven in a limo in New York is totally surreal ."

Suzanna after signings at Borders at Columbus Circle, New York.

At a special lunch hosted by the Moroccan National Tourist Office, invited members of the media were present including some of the USA's top travel writers; Sandra Ramani – New York Daily News, Condé Nast Traveler, John Oseid, Condé Nast Traveler, Judy Koutsky – Luxury Travel Advisor, Elite Traveler, New York Daily News, TravelAge West, Jeff Heilman – Business Traveler, Corporate Leader, CEO Tomorrow, Michelle Doucette – IgoUgo.com / Travelocity.com, Amy Cortese – New York Times, Daily News, BusinessWeek, Conde Nast Portfolio, Lisa Arcella – Black Elegance, New York Daily News, New York Post, Woman’s Day, Andrea Chambers – Modern Bride and Jenny Miller – Brilliant Magazine. Other guests included Kathy Sagan – Editor, Simon & Schuster, Chris Spring – President, Spring, O’Brien and Nora Brossard – Editorial Director, Spring, O’Brien who recently brought a group of travel writers to Morocco.


To find out more about A House in Fez, please visit the Simon & Schuster website:
For readers in Australia & New Zealand, you can order it from your local bookshop or buy online here.

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Friday, November 14, 2008

Fez Football Frenzy



The View from Fez sports editor, Dominick Nisbett, reports:

On Monday, Nov. 17, the Complex Sportive situated on the road to Sefrou in Fes, Morocco, will play host to an international collection of soccer superstars joining forces in the name of charity, with all the action airing live and exclusively on Fox Soccer Channel.

The sixth-annual Match Against Poverty promotes an initiative to cut worldwide poverty in half by 2015 through the United Nations Development Programme's Millennium Development Goals.

Following a press conference, the match itself will be kicking off at 6:00 p.m, with captains Zinedine Zidane and Ronaldo leading out two star-studded teams. Stars confirmed to appear include: Victor Valdes and Seydou Keita (FC Barcelona), Anatoliy Tymoshchuk (Zenit St. Petersburg), Joseba Etxeberria (AthleticoBilbao), Ivan Leko (Club Brugge) and Lauren (Portsmouth).

Last year's match featured the likes of Robinho, William Gallas and Robert Pires, and with players continuing to sign up as match day approaches, this year's Match Against Poverty promises to be another milestone event for a great cause.

Tickets can be purchased for between Dh 50-200 (Euros 5-20) at various kiosks/newsagents in town or by sending an e-mail to: billets@publisport21

Please note that due to security arrangements, ticket holders should be at the stadium before 4:30pm.



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"Kandisha" entered in Marrakech Film Festival.


Moroccan feature-length film "Kandisha" by Jerome Cohen-Olivar will take part in the competition of the 8th Marrakech International Film Festival which runs from tomorrow until November 22.

There are fourteen other films from several countries. They are "100" by Chris Martinez (Philippines), "Im Winter ein Jahr" by Caroline Link (Germany), "Sveitabruokaup" by Valdis Oskarsdottir (Iceland), "Eden" by Declan Recks (Ireland), "El nido vacio " by Daniel Burman (Argentina), "Flammen & Citronen" by Ole Christian Madsen (Denmark), "Frozen River" by Courtney Hunt, "Prince Of Broadway" by Sean Baker, "Kasky" by Aku Louhimies (Finland), "Il primo giorno d'inverno" by Mirko Locatelli (Italy), "Dixi of Tiankong" by Zhang Chi (China), "Pora Umierac" by Dorota Kedzierzawska (Poland), "Diko Pole" by Mikhail Kalatozishvili (Russia), and "Zero Bridge" by Tariq Tapa (USA & India).

The movies will vie for four prizes: The Golden Star, The Jury Prize, Best Female Performance and Best Male Performance.

Chaired by American screenwriter, film director, actor, and producer Barry Levinson, this year's jury includes Sebastian Koch(German actor), Joaquim de Almeida (Portuguese actor), Hugh Hudson (Biritish director, screenwriter, and producer), Caterina Murino (Italian actress), Agusti Villaronga (Spanish director and writer), Natacha Regnier (French actress), Ghita El Khayat (Moroccan writer), and Mariama Barry (Guinean-Senegalese writer).

The 8th edition of FIFM will pay a special tribute to British, Russian, Egyptian and Moroccan cinema.

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Thursday, November 13, 2008

Moroccan Banjo Music?



Café Clock are advertising a concert of Moroccan banjo music... yes... banjo. Now Banjo is one of those instruments that some people love to hate. Much like the accordion. Yet, in the right hands it can be truly wonderful and so it will be at the Clock this week. Of course it is a little known fact that the banjo is an ancient Berber instrument, invented by Khoya Nourredine II in the year 808.

A banjo fossil discovered in Fez.

It was banned for the next 1200 years and only recently has it been allowed to be played in public after the discovery of a fossilised banjo in a tunnel under Fez... Regular readers will also remember the Moroccan banjo as the first instrument played on the moon....

The first performance of "Hotel California" played on a Moroccan Banjo.
You can get your fix of banjo on Sunday 16th - see details below. The rest of the week's programme includes...

Thursday 13 Nov : 9 – 10 a.m.

Yoga @ the Clock
Bring a Mat : 50 dh ( discounts available )

Thursday 6 Nov - 6 p.m. ( Free )

Film : Momento - A man, suffering from short-term memory, loss, uses notes and tattoos to hunt for the man he thinks killed his wife.

Sunday 16 Nov: 11 a.m – 12:30 am

Oriental Dance @ the Clock with Fes choreographer and dancer Asmae Kouli. ( 30 dh). Reserve a Place

Sunday 16 Nov – 3 - 5 p.m. Calligraphy @ the Clock

Discover the sacred art of Arabic calligraphy with teacher and artists Mohammed Charkaoui. ( 150 dh, discounts available). Reserve a Place.

Sunday 16 Nov : 6 p.m. ( 20 dh )

Sunday Sunset Concert- Popular Moroccan Banjo – Nourredine

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A secret tunnel under the Fez Medina?


In our previous story we mentioned that as part of the celebrations for the 1200th anniversary of the founding of Fez, that there were various events including lectures. One that we would loved to attend is being held in the USA.

The urban planning and preservation conference celebrating Fez, Morocco's 1,200th birthday is being held at UCR with scholars from North America, Europe and Africa converging tomorrow (Friday) in Riverside for the first day of the conference. It will conclude Saturday at UCLA. According to a press release:

Session one of the conference features presentations on Moroccan policy for preserving the architectural heritage of Fez, the importance of Fez as a touchstone for “authentic” Moroccan culture in the eyes of French colonial architects, and the Sahrij and Sbaiyin Madrassa Complex Restoration Project as a case study of conservation and sustainability.

Session two explores political legitimacy and popular participation in the Royal Musalla of Fez, shifting conceptions of performance and authority in Fassi curing rites, and the textual objectification and ethnographic analysis of Judeo-Arabic.

Session three examines the history of the suburbs of Fez and the current program of “social housing” construction, the possible existence of a secret tunnel under the city, a proposal to restore the medina’s paved-over river, and a study of ethnographic change in the Zkak Roumane quarter.

Session four extends the discussion to explore definitions of the “European” and the “local” in architecture, literature, music and dance.

One of the highlights for The View from Fez would have to be Laila Lalami reading from her forthcoming novel, Secret Son, an allegory of contemporary Morocco.


But what fascinated us most was the reference to: "a secret tunnel under Fez". So we set our "secret tunnel" reporter, Lumen, on the case.

Lumen reports that according to Kamal Raftani from ADER... "In the oral history of Fez, people talk about a tunnel that was connecting Borj Nord to Borj Sud, but there is no scientific and physical evidence! According to the topography of the medina and the river that is crossing it, it's almost impossible that such tunnel has existed. However, it is possible that each of the Borjs was separately connected to a place in the medina. We find this in other cities, for instance in Les Oudaya in Rabat, there were tunnels connecting some houses to the beach."

Our thanks to Kamal.



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Fez - 1200 years old and the celebrations continue.



The 1200th birthday of the city of Fez is being celebrated in places far from Morocco and in a variety of ways. There are conferences, dinners, lectures and even a musical production.

The Association For 1200 Years of the Foundation of the City of Fez will present a free event, the World Première of an original live music and dance spectacular, “FEZ: Queen of Cities,” at UCLA’s Royce Hall, 325 Westwood Plaza, Los Angeles, this Saturday, November 15, at 8:00 p.m. This event celebrates the 1200th anniversary of the city of Fez and the designation of the city as a UNESCO world heritage site. Kamal Oudrhiri, President of the Moroccan American Cultural Center of Los Angeles,who serves as Artistic Director of “FEZ: Queen of Cities,” said after the performance at UCLA’s Royce Hall, the show will embark on an International Tour, including stops in New York, Morocco and Paris.

Rehearsals for the music celebration

The full concert and musical, “FEZ: Queen of Cities” features a multi-ethnic and multi-religious cast including musicians from Europe, Africa and Asia with American dancers from diverse ethnic groups. The performance surveys the diverse history of Fez, the site of the world’s oldest University, and city that was founded by Muslims, Jews and Christians, Arabs, Sub-Saharan Africans, Berbers and Europeans. The show also reinforces the role that women play and have played historically in Islamic cities and culture.

The cast of master musicians will include: Fatah Abou of Aza, Momo Loudiyi, Abderrahim Amarani, Ali Alaoui, Moultaqa Salam and A.J. Racy and dancers from the Venice, CA based blue13 dance company with choreography set by Achinta S. McDaniel. Dancers include blue13 principals Kory Keith (of Los Angeles) as The City of Fez; Arun Mathai (of Hollywood) as The People of Fez; Marisa Cleghorn (of Venice) as Kenza; D. Valentine (of Monterrey) as Idriss and Erin Dwyer (of Studio City) as Fatima. Ensemble dancers include: Tammie Johnston, TJ Cruz, Kyrra Richards, Kelly Allen, Christopher Fox, Joelle Cosentino and Jade Haviland.

This event is presented in celebration of the 1200th Anniversary of the city of Fez, Morocco, considered the spiritual and religious center of Morocco. This event is made possible by grants from the Association 1200ième Anniversaire de la Fondation de la Ville de Fès and the Social Science Research Council. “FEZ: Queen of Cities” is being presented in conjunction with the conference, “Fez, Morocco, Crossroads of Knowledge and Power: Celebrating 1200 Years of Urban Life” being held November 14 – 15,at UCLA and UC-Riverside.

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Monday, November 10, 2008

Shnoo?



The View from Fez reported a few days ago (Confounding the Guidebooks) that our favourite medina restaurant owner, Thami, had confused everyone by painting a new sign above his restaurant that read 'Tohami'.

Once we'd pointed it out to him (and helped some Dutch tourists who were trying to follow directions in their Lonely Planet guide), Thami promised to change the spelling. He did - and had the whole street laughing:


Sandy is definitely Thami's favourite customer, but we're sure the sign will be changed soon so that everyone can find the restaurant.

Reporting: Helen Ranger.
Photograph: Helen Ranger.


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Irish company strikes gas in Morocco - breaking news.


The Irish Times is reporting that Circle Oil the oil and gas exploration and development company with assets in North Africa and the Middle East, has drilled, logged and successfully tested a gas find in the Ouled N’Zala Permit in Morocco. The Ouled N’Zala Permit is situated north-east of Rabat in the Rharb Basin.

According to another source, Circle Oil confirmed a discovery in the ‘Upper Ouled Formation’, with the well testing gas at a sustained rate of 3.32 MMscfd. The well has been completed as a potential producer, and the drilling rig has now moved to the Sebou permit to commence drilling the second of the six well programme across the Company’s two permits. The concession agreement includes the right of conversion to a production licence of 30 years, plus extensions, in the event of commercial discoveries.

David Hough, CEO of Circle, said the results was excellent news for the Company: "This discovery in our first well in Morocco is excellent news for Circle. The well has been completed in readiness for an extended production test and the field test results are in line with our expectations for this area. We look forward to the results of the next well which will be the first in the Sebou Permit where Circle holds a 75% interest.’’

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A new team member in Fez


The View from Fez has a new addition to its team. While we have only a small core of writers there are many people who contribute on an occasional basis and this has allowed us to find interesting stories from around Morocco. Over the years readers have pointed out the one area that has been sadly neglected is sport. We admit it is true! Now we have our very own sports editor - Dominick Nisbett.


A man with wide sporting experience Dominick feels at home covering everything from the gritty details of a Welsh ruck and maul to synchronised swimming. While he will have a general brief to keep an eye on sport around Morocco his first assignment may take a lot of beating.

On November 17th Dominick will be covering the Match against Poverty. Fez will host the sixth match in the series. Dominick is excited by the lineup in which Ronaldo and friends will face up to Zidane and friends. "Make no mistake" he said, "This is a major game and with such big names playing it will attract huge attention to Fez."The match will be held under the auspices of the United Nations Development Program (UNDP)

Zinédine Zidane

The "Match against Poverty" raises funds which the UNDP allocates to anti-poverty projects ranging from the creation of small businesses for women to the construction of sports centres for street children and the disadvantaged in various developing countries, including Morocco.

This game is widely covered by the media, as the previous event in Malaga (southern Spain) was aired live by the TV channels of over 40 countries and covered by some 300 journalists from 73 news organizations.

The previous editions took place in Basles (2003), Madrid (2004), Dusseldorf (2005), Marseille (2006) and Malaga (2007).

Meanwhile in other sporting news, Dominick reports that winner Ernie Els in the Hassan II Trophy tournament over the Royal Dar Es Salam course at Rabat, yesterday,collected the $150,000 top prize, thanks to a final round of 68 for a total of 275, overtaking overnight leader Simon Dyson who finished with a 74 for joint second place on 277 with Johan Edfors (Sweden).

And veteran Laura Davies is still going strong at the age of 44. The English player won the Princess Lalla Meryem Cup over the same course at Rabat on Saturday. She had rounds of 67, 69 and 70 for a 13-under-par total of 206.

We welcome Dominick to The View from Fez and should you have a sports story you think we should cover, do let us know.

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Sunday, November 09, 2008

Travel writing about Morocco #24


"The courtyard becomes a place of repose, of refuge. In its tranquillity, its serenity, there is the sense of the divine, some echo of eternity." - Stanley Stewart

As regular readers will know, we post an occasional series of tributes or brickbats to travel writers who report back to the world on their experiences in Morocco. Today it is a tribute to an interesting article writen by Stanley Stewart in The Times Online. Stanley write evocatively about Fez and bravely suggests that Fez is "Marrakesh without the crowds". Here is an excerpt:
There was a moment in the old medina in Fez, not far from the great gate known as the Bab Bou Jeloud, when three worlds seemed to collide - God, commerce and the Wolseley, in Piccadilly.

Here, within a few steps of one another, you find the religious, the secular and an excellent latte with lemon tart. Mammon is everywhere in these lanes, but God and the lemon tart would be all too easy to miss.

Fez is an extraordinary survivor. A medieval Muslim city, little changed in 1,000 years, it offers a vision of a world when the clash of civilisations involved Barbary pirates and white-slave traders.

Still enclosed within high walls, still threaded by a labyrinth of narrow alleys where mules jostle with robed figures, the medina is a whirlwind of buying and selling. If the intensity takes your breath away, it is not because there is more commerce than on Kensington High Street, but because in Fez everything is so brazenly public.

Fez was the cultural centre of Morocco for 1,000 years or more, and as such it was home to numerous medersas, or Islamic universities. One of the more exquisite is the Bou Inania. Distracted by the chaos of the street, you could miss this miracle of medieval Islam. But you need to notice it. This is one of the reasons to come to Fez.

The Bou Inania is in retirement, its academic career over, which is why faithless characters such as myself are allowed in. It is one of the finest buildings in Morocco and ranks among the best in the Islamic world.


I came at lunchtime and was alone in the courtyard with a couple of white doves. I sat in a swathe of sun, my back to a warm wall. The courtyard is a space of the most exquisite proportions. Its interior walls bear three bands of dense decoration - zellij tiles, stucco work and cedar wood. The patterns – floral, geometric, calligraphic - are astonishingly intricate. They enclose the courtyard with an elaboration of design that is almost beyond measure, certainly beyond my comprehension. But the effect is not what you might expect.

Such busy design could well produce a claustrophobic sense of excess. In the courtyard of Bou Inania, however, one finds a wonderful calm. It is the ambition of Islamic art and architecture to illustrate the nature of God, so in all that movement, in all those curvaceous, swirling lines, there is a sense of stillness. And in the tremendous complexity of the designs, there is a wonderful simplicity. The courtyard becomes a place of repose, of refuge. In its tranquillity, its serenity, there is the sense of the divine, some echo of eternity.

Read the full article here: Fez: Marrakesh without the tourists.

Check out our earlier travel writing stories:

Travel Writing Twenty-three

Travel Writing Twenty-two
Travel Writing Twenty-one
Travel Writing Twenty
Travel Writing Nineteen
Travel Writing Eighteen
Travel Writing Seventeen
Travel writing Sixteen.
Travel Writing Fifteen.
Travel Writing Fourteen.
Travel Writing Thirteen.
Travel Writing Twelve.
Travel Writing Eleven.
Travel Writing Ten.
Travel Writing Nine
Travel writing eight
Travel writing Seven
Travel Writing Six
Travel Writing Five
Travel Writing Four
Travel Writing Three
Travel Writing Two
Travel Writing One

Photographs: Sandy McCutcheon

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Saturday, November 08, 2008

Art4Peace exhibition in the Fez Medina


"There are so many layers of meaning in everyone of the works and they will certainly reward the viewer who spends time contemplating them," - Curator Rose Demir.


Linda Zahava - Khamsa - (detail)

The Art4Peace exhibition at Cafe Clock, features the work of 16 American artists living in Morocco. It explores themes of peace, poverty, progress, diversity and tolerance as perceived through the lens of contemporary Moroccan culture.

Thanks to Jess Stephens from Clock Culture, The View from Fez had the opportunity to view the exhibition, talk with the curator and bring you photographs of some of the work. You can click on the images to enlarge them.

Dominique Ellis - Symbolic Laundry
(painted phone card abstractions)
Detail ( below)


Artists; Leslie Andrus, Karen Christiansen, Lindsey Dunnagan, Ned Epps, Dominique Ellis, Michael Frels, Rachelle Giard, Jessica Havilcek, Laura Hoppenjans, Janiela Howalt, Nate Johnson, Kristina Larson, Olga Shvayetskaya, Jong Son, Anna Witacre, Linda Zahava.

Guest Curator: Rose Demir

The driving force behind the exhibition is the guest curator, Rose Demir, a professional curator who has worked at the San Antonio Museum. Rose says that having so many gifted artists in the country at one time was too good an opportunity to let slip and so she approached the individual artists with the notion of creating an exhibition.

The response was overwhelmingly positive and as the artists got to work, Rose set about finding a venue to display the work. Fortunately she contacted Jess Stephens and arranged that Cafe Clock would display the results.

"There are so many layers of meaning in everyone of the works that they will certainly reward the viewer who spends time contemplating them," Rose says.

It is an exhibition worth visiting.

Jessica Havlicek - Ait Merghad Woman
(muslin, fiberfill, beads, embroidery, knitting, metal & paint)

Anna Whiteacre - She Sat
(watercolour & ink on paper)


Kristina Larson - Adberzack, Hijab, Spicy Bread, Ait Hamza
(Acrylic on board)


Dominique Ellis - Typography of Hearsay
(printmaking)


Not all of the artists had originally set out to create a work of art. Linda Zahava explained that her work - Khamsa (pictured below) was originally done as part of a meditation on peace and cross-cultural values. "A prayer for peace," she says, as the Khamsa symbol is found in both Jewish and Muslim traditions." Her drawing on the traditional henna motifs struck a chord with local Moroccan women who were quick to praise her work.

Linda Zahava - Khamsa.

The Auction

An auction of the works on display at Cafe Clock will be held at 5pm on Wednesday the 19th of November and the proceeds will benefit the Club Femme Association (Sefrou) dedicated to supporting at-risk women who are challenged by poverty, illiteracy, prostitution, drug abuse, and homelessness.

Photographs: Sandy McCutcheon



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