Sunday, May 31, 2009

Festivities at Cafe Clock



Cafe Clock

is in a festive mood this week, with the following presentations from Monday 1 June. And talking of clocks, don't forget that Morocco moves onto GMT + 1hr on Monday.

17h00 Monday: Belly dance workshop with Saida Dh50

15h00-17h00 Monday, Wednesday & Friday: The sacred art of calligraphy with master Mohamed Charkaoui

10h30-noon Tuesday, Thursday & Friday: Yoga Dh50

18h00-20h00 Wednesday: Jam: Young musicians play live on the terrace. Free

18h30 Thursday Movie: Ali Zawa. A Moroccan movie about 12yr-old street kids in Casablanca where survival is an everyday problem and friendship is their bond. Free

15h00-18h00 Saturday Discussion: Cross-cultural debate organised by students of Dhar el Mahraz University (in English). Free

18h30 Sunday Sunset Concert: Jilaliyat - popular female group. Dh20

Art exhibition until 18 August: Gawriya Jat by Dominique Ellis

For more information, see www.cafeclock.com


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Batha Happenings.



While wandering around Batha today, our roving reporter spotted that a number of restaurants are sporting new table cloths and chair covers, with brocade bezef and frills aplenty. Thami's has gone the apricot and assorted fruit route - a nice fresh new look.

Meanwhile in Absalam's hairdressing shop, Jim, from Boulder Colorado, was under the knife... yes, no scissors , just the razor. And we can report that the end result was... er... shiny?


Jim and Caroline relax after another busy day in the fez Medina. They leave Fez shortly, but we do expect to see them back again, inshallah.

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American Gospel at the Fez Festival



All of Mahalia's moves and a voice to match - Paulette Wright.

There can be no doubt that Moroccan audiences simply love American gospel music. Maybe it is the infectious rhythms, maybe the intensity of the performances or maybe it is a an affinity with African Americans bringing their music back to Africa. Whatever the reason - it works.

The scheduled performer was to have been Marwa Wright performing a homage to Mahalia Jackson but this was not to be. Just before leaving the USA, Marwa Wright suffered a stroke and was too ill to travel. At the last moment her cousin, Paulette Wright agreed to stand in and proved to be a sensational replacement.

Darvell Crawford

The concert began with a spirited warm-up from the eight piece group's musical director and pianist, Darvell Crawford. From the minute he opened his mouth to sing, the crowd were in the palm of his hand.

What a star! Jackie Tolbert rocks the Bab Makina.

Then it was the turn of Dianne Peterson who built the tempo before handing the microphone to a woman who looked as if she could have stood in for a slim Whoopi Goldberg. This was Jackie Tolbert. Her understated and rather drab outfit and her humble appearance were deceptive. She was a human dynamo who stalked and prowled the stage, inspiring the audience, pulling to them to their feet and getting a standing ovation. Sitting back stage, Paulette Wright must have felt in danger of being upstaged.

Paulette Wright - all the power of Mahalia Jackson

For the first few bars it felt as thought Paulette had indeed been challenged by Jackie Tolbert, but she quickly warmed up and with the theatricality of an opera diva, she delivered a fine set of bluesy-gospel that had the audience again on their feet and calling for more. It was an extraordinary performance from a woman called in at the last moment.

The colour de jour? Silver.

To end on a social note, social and fashion editor, Dominique Nicebits has this to say; "My comments yesterday about silver being the colour of the fashion-concious, was borne out today by the very elegant woman introducing the concert. Tip to remember, silver is the new black, C'est ca!"

Photographs: Sandy McCutcheon

At the Festival Today.

Batha Museum at 16h00

Zabit Nabizade Trio from Azerbaijan.


Tonight's concert is one of The View from Fez's picks for best show of the festival. You can read more here: The Whirling Dervishes of Konya

Bab Makina 20h30 (A seats €37; B seats €19)

1st part: The Whirling Dervishes of Konya (Turkey)

From Eternity to Modernity

2nd part: Ziya Azazi (Turkey)

Icons: Contemporahttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifry Dervish Dance


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Saturday, May 30, 2009

Indian Dancer adds magic to Fez Festival



Classical Indian dancer Shantala Shivalingappa held the audience spellbound yesterday afternoon at the Batha Museum. Despite a shower of rain, which briefly interrupted her intricate steps, the dancer showed why her skills have been in demand by choreographers and theatre directors such as Maurice Bejart, Pina Bausch and Peter Brook.

The style of dance she performed was Kuchipudi, orginating from Andhra Pradesh in the south of India in the 15th century. Shivalingappa told stories with the positions of her eyes, arms and hands, accompanied by the chanting of Jetty Ramesh as well as flute and percussion.

Born in Madras, Shivalingappa was raised in Paris where her mother, renowned dancer Savitry Nair, taught her to dance in the classical Indian style. She has since travelled the world performing at theatres and festivals. Under the giant oak tree, at what was once the Batha Palace, was the perfect setting.


PR women disrupt concert

While it's wonderful to have sponsors such as the Attijariwafa Bank, it would be a good idea to explain to their employees that people at the concerts are generally there to enjoy the music and have spent a great deal of money to come to Fez and attend the Festival. The arrival this afternoon of a busload of bank employees half an hour into the concert was disruptive. The two women organising their arrival talked throughout the concert and used their cellphones all the time. When asked to desist, they simply explained that this was their job and they had to make the calls. It's noticeable that the announcers have stopped reminding patrons to switch off their cellphones during concerts.

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New restaurant in the Fez Medina


The View from Fez has discovered a wonderful new restaurant in Derb Tariana, just off Tala'a Kebira in the meat and vegetable market near Bab Boujloud.

Souad at le Chameau Bleu.

Le Chameau Bleu is the brainchild of Souad, owner of the Medina Cafe just outside the Blue Gate. Souad has restored a lovely old house very tastefully, with a wall fountain on the ground floor, soft beige plaster, zellij floors and comfortable seating, both Moroccan banquettes and chairs and tables. The roof terrace is perfect for a summer night.


The menu impressed our team as it features fresh fish including lotte, Atlas trout and sardines, Moroccan dishes including various lamb and chicken options, and pastas with some interesting sauces.

We started with superb home-made citronnade, a refreshing drink on a hot day. We ordered the Atlas trout that had just come in, and were delighted that it was grilled over coals to perfection with some fresh herbs. Accompaniments were rice and some excellent vegetables cooked with whole garlic cloves, spices and chopped ginger.


Prices are reasonable, with main courses ranging from Dh60 to Dh140. This is not fast food - take the time to relax after a hot day's shopping or concert-going during the festival.

Le Chameau Bleu is at 1 Derb Tariana, ph 0535 638 991.
To find it, just walk downhill on either Tala'a and turn into the little street after the Medersa Bouanania.

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Art exhibition at "The Clock"


Dominique Ellis

The opening of the exhibition of prints and paintings by Dominique Ellis was attended by a large number of Moroccans, expatriates and visitors. Having seen individual prints before, it was great to see how Dominique had chosen to frame them in groups.


Dominique herself appeared very relaxed and laid-back, but the excitement was there in the crowd her viewed her work. Anthony, a visitor from Scotland wandered around muttering "Awesome!". Others agreed and it is our understanding that several paintings were sold within a few minutes of the exhibition being opened.

Tara (above), and Gail (below) admiring the exhibition.

Cecile and friends at The Clock

Musicians - Anas (above) guitarist (below).


The View from Fez congratulates Dominique Ellis on a fine exhibition.

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Fashionistas and Glitterati at the Fest.



Opening night at the Fez Sacred Music Festival is not just a musical event - it is the première social night of the year when the glitterati frock up, get coiffured, manicured and bejewelled. The View from Fez team didn't have a frock between them, but social and fashion editor, Dominique Nicebeat, was on the case. The Photographers were the intrepid Gérard Chemit and Sandy McCutcheon. Here is Miss Dominique's report.

Photo: Gérard Chemit

All that glitters is not gold and this year it was certainly true that silver was very much to the fore. This cowgirl top, bold bare shoulders and all, would not have looked out of place on Emy Lou Harris at the Grand Old Opry in my home town. The broad silver belt was stunning.

Where silver wasn't the predominant colour, it was certainly present in accessories such as the handbag in the left of the photograph below, or the trimming around the very tasteful apricot frock.

Photos: Gérard Chemit


Again we find silver as the unifying motif across a range of formal wear and jewellery. The necklace above was stunning and drew admiring and envious glances. However the "silver award" for the night has to go to this exquisite and beautifully tailored dress featured below. The lace trimming was wonderful

Photo: Gérard Chemit

Photo: Gérard Chemit

Perhaps the most striking departure from previous years was the shortened skirt length and the heels... oh dear, the heels. Let me put it this way; it is good thing that some of the glamorous young things didn't have to totter down the cobbled streets of the Medina.

Photo: Gérard Chemit

Silver - absolute elegance.

Photo: Sandy McCutcheon

The View from Fez fashion accessory award has to go to this wonderful piece of 'Fez Retro' - Hand of Fatima earrings - not in silver, alas, but nevertheless....

All that remains to be said was that Princess Lalla Salma was wearing a wonderful gown - black and silver.

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Fes Festival of World Sacred Music: Opening Night.


Note: If you are looking for the 2010 Festival, click here!


Bab Makina - a superb venue

Opening night at the Festival.

Last night saw the opening night of the 15th edition of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music and once again the Sacred Music Festival began with the arrival of the hugely popular Princess Lalla Salma (pictured left), who received a standing ovation from the almost capacity crowd.

Fortunately the storm clowds that had gathered in the early evening vanished and a balmy warm evening made the Bab Makina venue a delight to visit.

Musically, the opening night of the Fes Festival of Sacred Music was a triumph for Artistic Director, Gerard Kurdjian. In previous years the opening night had gathered a reputation for being dull and of less interest than other nights. After the disappointment of Jessye Norman last year, this was a great relief.

Princess Lalla Salma is shown to her seat.

Artistic Director, Gerard Kurdjian welcomes the crowd.

This year, thankfully, the opening concert was superb. Not only did the crowds turn up in great numbers, but the music of Marcel Khalife and the Al Mayadine Ensemble from Lebanon was well known and loved by the audience who needed little encouragement to sing along. It is little wonder his music is so well known, as this composer and master oud player has toured all over the world and in 2005 was named UNESCO Artist for Peace. Last year he was appointed musical director and resident composer of the newly founded Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra.

Marcel Khalife

The concert was dedicated to Mahmoud Darwiche, the famous Palestinian poet who died last year. In the spirit of a festival that has always honoured the musical traditions of the three Abrahamic faiths, Marcel Khalife is a Maronite Christian.

Khalife was joined on stage by the 18 piece band that included accordian, piano, percussion and a four piece female string quartet! The resulting music crossed the spectrum from Arabic to tango and included some beautifully haunting vocal work from Oumeima Khalil.

Oumeima Khalil.

The lighting and sound were superb and the Festival is due great credit for finally (after fifteen years of requests) installing large screens on both sides of the Bab Makina so that the audience at the back of the venue can actually see the concert. The audience were delighted by the innovation.

Sound guru, Chris Ekers.

The giant screens were a popular addition.

Faces in the crowd - enjoying the spectacle.


Tomorrow at the Festival.
Saturday 30 May Batha Museum 16h00 (€14)

Shantala Shivalingapa (India)

Kuchipudi Dance

Bab Makina 20h30 (A seats €47; B seats €28)

Marwa Wright (USA)

Gospel

Opening night reporting and photographs: Helen Ranger, Suzanna Clarke and Sandy McCutcheon


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Friday, May 29, 2009

Daylight saving in Morocco




Daylight saving starts in Morocco on Monday 1 June, when the time will be put forward by one hour to GMT + 1.

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Chater and Daifallah exhibition opens.


The gallery opening ( click to enlarge)

Thursday night saw the opening of the latest exhibition at the Orientalist Art Gallery. The works by Noreddine Chater and Noreddine Daifallah had not departed from the style of their earlier works, but are nevertheless still striking, with Chater's softer more painterly style integrating calligraphic elements and Daifallah's mix of bold and intricate calligraphy.

An interesting contrast in styles.


The guests included Kate and Alaa from Dar Seffarine, David Amster, Australians Peter Hook and Rebecca Raft, Celine from Fes et Gestes, Jess Stephens of Culture Vultures who ran the event, Dan from the divine cafe, Amour and Chocolat, Bonnie Kaplan, Robyn Kerrison, Dominick Nisbett and a very welcome face, Gibran Bouayad and his new wife Sumaya, on a return visit from the USA.

Bonnie Kaplan and a 2007 work by Chater

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Thursday, May 28, 2009

Allah's Garden



In 1979, young medical graduate Azeddine Benmasour started his Moroccan military service in Western Sahara. He was captured by the Polisario in August of that year, and remained a prisoner of war in the Sahara until his release in September 2003.


This remarkable book by American writer Thomas Hollowell has just been published. The true story of Azeddine's life in the camps over almost 25 years is woven into Hollowell's own story of being drawn to Morocco and his experiences over several years in the country. The author interviewed Azeddine over many months and carried out a great deal of research on the subject.

Dr Azeddine Bensamour as a young recruit

It's a harrowing tale of the fate of more than 1700 Moroccans held as POWs over this period and is told with great sensitivity. For many years, the Polisario managed to pull the wool over the eyes of many human rights organisations until eventually the organisations, such as the Red Cross and Red Crescent, started to realise how badly the POWs were being treated physically, mentally and emotionally. Azeddine rarely received letters from his family and missed his father's death.

Says James N. Sater, author of Morocco: Challenges to Tradition and Modernity (New York: Routledge, 2009),
"The agony of Azeddine, a Moroccan prisoner of war in the camps run by Polisario, is a sad reminder of the cost of war in Western Sahara paid by men, women and children far removed from the centers of power in Rabat, Algiers, Washington DC and European capitals ... Thomas Hollowell's powerful narrative ... is an excellent account of a humanitarian disaster that started more than 35 years ago."

Allah's Garden will be launched from 17h00-19h00 on 21 June at Cafe Clock with a book signing and reading. There's also a competition: once 5000 books have been sold, there'll be a draw with a prize of a 10-night trip to Morocco. If you purchase the book from the publisher, you'll be entered automatically; those who buy it elsewhere can register for the draw on the sponsor's website here.



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Marcel Khalife to open Fes Festival of World Sacred Music



Always a glittering occasion, the opening night of the Fes Festival tomorrow, Friday 29 May, will feature Marcel Khalife with his Al Mayadine ensemble and singer Oumeima Khalil in a concert dedicated to Mahmoud Darwiche.

Marcel Khalife

Khalife hails from the Lebanon and is a master oud player and composer. He has toured all over the world and in 2005 was named UNESCO Artist for Peace. Last year he was appointed musical director and resident composer of the newly founded Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra. Oumeima Khalil frequently performs in collaboration with Khalife.



Oumeima Khalil

Mahmoud Darwiche was a famous Palestinian poet who died last year. His work includes over thirty volumes of poetry and eight books of prose, and has been published in 20 languages, winning many awards. A central theme is his poetry is the concept of watan, or homeland. The poet Naomi Shihab Nye describes his work as 'the essential breath of the Palestinian people, the eloquent witness of exile and belonging ...'

The concert gets under way at 20h00 at Bab Makina. There are two categories of seats for the concerts in the evenings, A and B. Seats are unreserved, so try to get there early. Bab Makina is the parade ground in front of the Royal Palace, and is a huge auditorium. The seating is raked, but the B seats are further back. If you have a pass for the Festival, you automatically have A seats. It's sometimes to possible to buy tickets at the venue prior to the concert if it isn't sold out.

The View from Fez team wishes all festival goers 'bon spectacle'!


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