The Cervantes Theatre in Tangiers ~ Can it be Restored?

The Cervantes Theatre in Tangier is considered to be a masterpiece of Spanish architecture - sadly, a hundred years after it was built it is in danger of crumbling into nothing.

The cost of restoration and the question of who should pay for it has left the building in limbo. Nearby the port of Tanger is getting a facelift and a new marina, but the historical building seems forgotten.

The theatre is accessible via the Avenue Pasteur and Rue du Prince Moulay Abdallah

Yet, there are those who value its history. According to historian Bernabe Lopez Garcia the city was very different back in 1919. "The population was around 40,000," he says, "with around 7,000 Spaniards, 5000 Jews and 26,000 Muslims."

The history of the building dates back to 1911, when a rich Spanish merchant, Manuel Pena, decided to erect the theatre and dedicate it to his wife Esperanza Orellana, who was a passionate theatre lover.

The theatre opened in December 1913 and its history is closely linked to the Spanish presence.in Tangier.  During the Second World War, Franco's troops who occupied the city considered the building to be too modernist and wanted to convert the theatre in the neoclassical style fascist. The building was saved that fate. "Fortunately, the fascists did not have the money," said Mr. Lopez Garcia.

In December 2013, Lopez Garcia staged a major exhibition devoted to the centenary of the theatre. A celebration was subdued because as observers commented, a monument, reduced to a wreck, is painful to see.

Photo credit: Fadel Senna

Outside the yellow and blue ceramic decorating its facade is fading. And the inside, that once saw magnificent performances, is a wreck beneath a dilapidated ceiling - the remaining seats are covered with dust.

"Its current state is a bit pathetic, to be honest," admits Cecilia Fernandez Suzor, director of the Cervantes Institute in Tangier. "It looks like a shadow of a theater " sighs the writer Rachid Taferssiti, president of the Al Boughaz Association for the Safeguarding of Tangier. "I find it sad that a multicultural space like that is degraded as it is."


The theatre was the venue for the famous tenor Antonio Caruso, singer Patti Adeline and many Flamenco performances early last century. "My father played roles there," Rachid Taferssiti says, "The Al Hilal troupe, composed of Moroccans from Tangier, gave a noted performance of Othello in the theatre in 1929."

Closed since 1974, the Cervantes Theatre has long been praised as symbolic of Morocco, while remaining the property of Spain. The two countries still do not reach an agreement for its restoration.

" I think that the Spanish government would like nothing better than to restore it, but with the current crisis it is impossible to approach the subject ," says Ms. Fernandez Suzor, who said that" if we want to do it it would costs 1913 million - hello!"

Besides the cost, estimated at €4-5 million, the location in a run down neighbourhood is a weak point. "But there are some examples everywhere, where with the restoration of a cultural site, the environment transforms itself," argues the director of the Cervantes Institute, suggesting that the theatre could be reborn" as training center for crafts scene . "

"The city has a lot of changes to make, but should advance its share of the cost," Mr. Taferssiti claims. "We have our role to play, but the solution belongs to the Spanish and Moroccan governments."

SHARE THIS!

Morocco's Cold Wet Weather to Continue

The spell of cold and wet weather in Morocco is set to continue. The longer term outlook is for a gradual improvement by the middle of next week. 

Of the major cities, Marrakech is the only exception. The Marrakech temperatures this week will reach 22 degrees celsius by Monday. However, night time temperatures will vary between 3 degrees and 8. Make sure to carry an umbrella if you are out and about in Marrakech. The windiest day will be Monday 28th January as wind will reach 13mph (or 20kmph) at around 3 pm.

Take an umbrella this week - and a scarf

The scenario in Tangiers is a touch cooler. The week ahead will bring three days of sunshine and three of rain. In Tangiers the top temperature will be over the weekend with a high of 17 celsius. Night time lows will be between 8 and 11 degrees.

Casablanca can expect some sunshine today, but then increasingly cloudy conditions will bring rain on Friday and over the weekend. Low temperatures around 9 degrees are expected with a top of 18 most days.

Rabat has sun-showers today and tomorrow followed by three days of rain. Monday should see a return of the sunshine. Top temperature will be 18 on Saturday. Night temperatures are still cool going down to 8 or 9 degrees, but rising on the weekend to around 12 celsius.

In Fez, the daytime temperatures will vary between 16 or 17 on Saturday and 14 on Monday. Evening lows go down again after the weekend with only 4 degrees expected on Monday. Friday, Saturday and Sunday will probably see a return of rain after a better day on Thursday.

SHARE THIS!

Moroccan News Briefs #78

Morocco welcomes Obama's election victory

The response among Moroccans to the victory by US President Obama was overwhelmingly upbeat. The feeling among Moroccans of all classes was also shared by the nation's media who heaved a collective sigh of relief at the defeat of Mitt Romney.

The first official response came from HM King Mohammed VI who sent a message of congratulations to Barack Obama on his re-election. In his message, the King renewed the will of Morocco to continue working in cooperation with the US and to further develop and expand the bilateral ties.

Your re-election for a second term reflects the vibrancy and effectiveness of American democracy. It is also a strong indication of the great confidence placed in your wise leadership. This re-election attests to the high esteem in which you are held, given your human qualities, your political acumen and your wise decisions based on consultation, realism and compromise.

Allow me to take this opportunity to say how much I value the solid, longstanding relations between our two nations, and how keen I am to continue working with you, Mr. President, to further develop and expand our bilateral ties. The strategic partnership between our two countries has undoubtedly given fresh impetus to our bilateral relations and opened up vast, promising prospects. -King Mohammed VI

Full text of the message: HERE


Slow progress in Morocco's fight against corruption

Siham Ali, reporting for Magharebia in Rabat, writes that Morocco's Central Authority for the Prevention of Corruption (ICPC) in delivered its annual report to Prime Minister Abdelilah Benkirane last week, criticised the pace of progress in tackling graft.

Abdelilah Benkirane's government under fire for the slow pace of reform  [photo: AFP/Abdelhak Senna] 

The 2010-2011 report, released to the public on Friday (November 2nd), stated that the situation in Morocco has not improved significantly and the government's policy still lacked a strategic dimension and an effective commitment to tackling corruption.

The ICPC also highlighted the lack of co-ordination between the various bodies in charge of inspections, monitoring and accountability due to the absence of close institutional ties between them, a lack of co-operation and sharing of expertise and information, and legal loopholes which are hampering efforts to curb corruption.

The authority has called for a genuine and serious commitment to tackling corruption, monopolies, privileged and dominant positions before embezzled funds can be recovered and public resources can be protected.

Since the current government took office, the prime minister and his cabinet team representing the Party of Justice and Development (PJD) have trumpeted their desire to tackle the issue.

The opposition has taken the government to task over its failure to act. Hakim Benchemmas, the parliamentary leader of the Party of Authenticity and Modernity in the Chamber of Councillors, has said that the government's pledges and words about this subject have not translated into anything concrete.

Civil society has also raised the alarm. Transparency Maroc has drawn attention to shortcomings in the law. It has said that the Law on the Protection of Witnesses and Whistle-Blowers falls short of expectations and that the identities of witnesses should be omitted from statements. It also claims that existing measures to guarantee the safety of witnesses and whistle-blowers are inadequate.

Michele Zirari, the deputy secretary-general of Transparency Maroc says, "If, for example, someone becomes aware of a corrupt act within their institution and reports it, they risk losing their job on the grounds of breach of professional secrecy,"


Marrakech scores "Top African Destination" award

The Moroccan city of Marrakesh, known for its enchanting charm that attracts tourists from all over the world, was elected by the 19th World Travel Awards (WTA) as “Africa’s Leading Destination” for 2012.

The WTA which has just unveiled the leading travel brands in Africa for 2012 pointed out that the ancient medina of Marrakech saw off competition from many tourism resorts like the Kalahari Desert (Namibia), Kruger National Park (South Africa), Mt. Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) or Cape Town (South Africa) to win the coveted title of “Africa’s Leading Destination”.

Properties in Marrakech also enjoyed top honours. Amanjena was voted “Africa’s Leading Luxury Resort”, whilst the Royal Mansour was named “Africa’s Leading Hotel” in a category that included The Palace of the Lost City (South Africa), Fairmont the Norfolk (Kenya) and Grand Hyatt Cairo (Egypt).

The comprehensive WTA programme, hailed as the ‘Oscars of the travel industry’ by the global media, highlights and rewards those travel brands that have made the greatest contribution to the industry in quality, innovation and service, over the past year.


Morocco and Australia to strengthen ties

According to visiting Australian Senator Gavin Marshall (pictured left), Morocco and Australia are two countries with "common challenges" ahead. He says that thew countries are expected to further strengthen their political and economic relations, taking advantage of the huge opportunities that could offer such cooperation.

"There are opportunities available for both countries, which face the same challenges, to strengthen their political and economic relations," said Marshall, in a statement to the press after his meeting with Minister delegate to the Minister of Foreign Affairs and cooperation, Mr. Youssef Amrani.

Regarding the issue of the territorial integrity of the Kingdom, Australian senator welcomed the permanent dialogue "to reach a mutually acceptable solution to this issue." This "is very encouraging," he said.

He has also said that discussions with the Moroccan official also focused on regional and international issues of common interest, including the latest political and security developments in the region.

Australian Senator Gavin Marshall made ​​a working visit to Morocco at the head of a parliamentary delegation.


Marrakech Film Festival to honour Zhang Yimou

The International Film Festival of Marrakech (30 Nov — 8 Dec 2012) is to honour the career of Chinese director Zhang Yimou 張藝謀.

Zhang Yimou

The Moroccan festival will play his most recently completed film The Flowers of War 金陵十三釵, starring Christian Bale.

The festival said that Zhang has received some of the world's most prestigious awards including the Cannes Grand Jury Prize for To Live 活著 (1994). It also noted that his films had been selected three times as China's foreign-language Oscar representative.

Zhang received a lifetime achievement award last month at the Mumbai Film Festival.

The 12th Marrakech International Film Festival will also have the largest ever Indian delegation of actors and filmmakers attending. While the event marks the Indian film's industry's centenary, there will also be a special tribute ceremony for Amitabh Bachchan, president of the Indian delegation.

In a press statement, Bachchan said: "I am deeply honoured and delighted to be attending the Marrakech Film Festival to be held on November 30th. I would also like to thank the relevant authorities for giving the respect and relevance to the Indian Film Industry which, I believe, will form a special section in this year's Festival.

"I remember with deep gratitude my last visit to Marrakech in October 2003 and the warmth and hospitality that was extended to us during our short stay. I wish the Festival all success and do look forward to the pleasure of being there again."

The Festival will welcome the largest Indian delegation ever assembled at an international festival, including Jaya Bachchan, Shah Rukh Khan, Hrithik Roshan, Priyanka Chopra, Arjun Rampal, Ileana D'Cruz and Karan Johar.

The festival will include a series of open air screenings at the Jemaa el-Fnaa Square, including a special screening of Jab Tak Hai Jaan as part of a special tribute to the late director Yash Chopra.


Moroccan authorities detain eight "terrorist cell"" members

The Interior Ministry announced this week that authorities had arrested eight people suspected of plotting attacks against strategic sites. The news came less than a week after the kingdom announced it had dismantled a "terrorist" cell.

The latest arrests involved a group called Ansar al-Sharia in the Islamic Maghreb. An interior ministry statement said they had dismantled the cell whose eight members planned to "commit acts of sabotage against strategic sites". The cell's targets included "sensitive buildings, security headquarters and tourist sites in several Moroccan cities," it added.

The suspects "were developing contacts with terrorist groups linked to Al-Qaeda," whose North African franchise is active in the Sahel region and in northern Mali, the statement said. A security official reached by a French news agency (AFP), said one of the cell members "was preparing a trip to the Sahel to get financial support from Islamist groups in that region."

They added the arrests were made in Rabat and several other cities. One of the suspects had previously been detained under the kingdom's anti-terror laws. Morocco announced the dismantling of a "terrorist cell" several days before, comprising nine members plotting to set up a training camp in the Rif region, in order to attack "the authorities".

Hassan Younsi launched a web page to attract
people to the Ansar al-Sharia movement in Morocco.

The operation came less than two weeks after the arrest of Hassan Younsi, founder of the "Co-ordination of Ansar al-Sharia in Morocco". The new group had made its presence known on September 17th with the launch of a Facebook page and the posting of a doctrinal document on jihadist forums.

Younsi, who lives in Salé, was arrested October 21st in the northern Moroccan city of Tétouan after visiting Sheikh Omar Hadouchi where it is believed he had asked the Sheikh to help resolve his dispute with the leaders of "Co-ordination for the Defence of Islamist Prisoners in Morocco", which includes veteran Moroccan jihadists who returned from Afghanistan.

Hadouchi, however, disavowed "Ansar al-Sharia in Islamic Maghreb", warning Salafist Jihadists against joining the new group.

It is not yet known whether Younsi is the leader of the cell dismantled on November 5th.


The tricky question of tax - is it Zakat?

Just a few months ago, before the Moroccan elections Abdelilah Benkirane and the Party of Justice and Development (PJD) mentioned in their manifesto the necessity to incorporate Zakat in the state’s budget.

Zakat one of the five pillars of Islam - a compulsory donation that has to be given by any Muslim whose income as exceeded a certain amount during the year. This sum is set at 2.5 % of the Muslim’s assets once they reach a value of at least 85g of gold.

From a religious point of view many consider it as a personal matter between themselves and God. However, there are a number of Muslim countries that have created Zakat funds which allow those governments to increase the budget for social welfare.

Since coming to power the PJD, through the Islamic Affairs Ministry, have been working towards the creation of a national Zakat fund. According to Najb Boulif, Minister Delegate of General Affairs and Governance, they are “working on a management model” so that “the government can create implementing mechanisms”.

Some Moroccans believe that the government will have a better way of managing Zakat funds and avoid individuals donating to private charities. On the other hand, there are those who believe that Moroccan citizens already have a hefty tax burden. So adding a new compulsory Zakat tax might make their already difficult economical situation worst. The response from critics is an interesting one. They believe that the 38% tax that is taken from all Moroccan citizens should be considered as Zakat.


Beauty contest photo shoot cops flack

Pictures of candidates for Belgium Beauty Queen 2013 taken at Morocco’s largest mosque have stirred controversy and local authorities have been quick to shift the blame.

The pictures, being circulated on line, raised questions about the responsible government agencies that granted the license for the photo shoot of a bunch of Belgian belles in their tank tops and short shorts in the square of Casablanca's Hassan II Mosque.

The photo shoot did not go down well with Attajdid, the paper of the ruling Party of Justice and Development (PJD) "This behaviour could provoke discord and instability. It's an attack on a place of worship," the paper wrote in an editorial yesterday. "Who authorised these young women to pose right in front of the mosque?" it demanded.

The picture also prompted furious outbursts on Moroccan news websites.

"I'm outraged by these photos, which touch our identity and our religion," wrote one commentator on Hesspress.com, one of the most popular sites.

Popular Moroccan news website Hespress quoted a source from the ministry of Islamic affairs denying any role for the ministry in the incident and pointing fingers at the mosque’s administration, which is in charge of the overall management of one of the world's largest Islamic landmarks.

Casablanca’s city council has also distanced itself from the incident. One of its members said the council did not authorise the photo shoot at the mosque.

A newspaper close to the opposition Socialist Union Party quoted a source at the mosque’s administration as saying that a company behind the photo shoot was granted the permission by the Moroccan Cinema Centre (MCC).

The Ittihad (union) newspaper reported that the centre gave the license to the Radio Télévision Belge Francophone (RTBF), the public broadcasting body of the French Community of Belgium.

Hespress quoted prominent religious preacher Sheikh Abdul-Bari Zamzami as holding the interior ministry responsible for the incident.

Some people saw the incident as unacceptable and called for the responsible parties to be hold accountable. Others expressed disinterest stressing the mosque lacks serious religious significance because it was built as “tourist destination not as a house of worship.”

But it was left to  As-Sabah, another Moroccan daily to bring a little commonsense to the fracas. They made light of the subject, running an article entitled "Ladies in Wonderland."

"It's a storm in a teacup. Allah loves beauty and there is nothing wrong with these young beauties posing in front of the Great Mosque."


The "eye of Sauron" discovered in Morocco

The discovery of a skull fossil in Morocco has revealed a new species of giant, meat-eating dinosaur. Palaeontologists have named Sauroniops pachytholus. Which if your Greek is a bit rusty let's remind you means "eye of Sauron". It sounds like a joke or a cunning promotion for the about to be released Peter Jackson film "The Hobbit"... but no, it is for real.

Palaeontologists say the Sauron's Eye was native to North Africa, and the meat-eater was as big as the Tyrannosaurus rex. The fossil was discovered in Morocco in 2007,but a research paper on the discovery has only just been published.

The tribute to J.R.R. Tolkien's Lord of the Rings comes about due to the creature's fossilised eye socket. Palaeontologists only found part of its skull, that was the fossil's most defining characteristic. According to Andrea Cau, the paper's lead author, "The idea of a predator that is physically known only as its fierce eye reminded me of Sauron, in particular as depicted in Peter Jackson's movies."

It is to be hoped that the Dark Lord of Mordor is suitably flattered.

Finally... the weather

Definitely autumn  weather all week throughout Morocco. Fez temperatures dropping to as low as 4 Celsius at night and reaching between 17 and 20 Celsius during the day. Marrakech mostly fine with a temperature range from 8 to 23. Rabat a showery weekend and average highs of 17. Casablanca can expect some showers on Sunday, but otherwise fine - 11 to 21 degrees most of the week. Tangier should also have weekend showers and a temperature range from 11 to 18 Celsius.

SHARE THIS!

Tragedy strikes Star-crossed Lovers in Tangier Kasbah

This week in the Kasbah of Tangier, tragedy strikes two star-crossed lovers from rival clans. Joe Lukawski reports from Tangier for The View from Fez.

Mouna Rmiki

The original musical “F7ali F7alek” (Like me, like you) inspired by the West Side Story brings the Sharks and Jets, and classics like Bernstein’s “Somewhere” from the West Side to contemporary Tangier. Here, Tony (who is “really called Kerim”) and Maria get tangled in a fight for neighborhood dominance between their families, one from Tangier and the other from ‘the Dakhl,’ the provinces in local parlance.

Sponsored by the American Language Center of Tanger through a grant from the US Embassy in Rabat to the American Cultural Association, the show dreamed up by American theater director and Fulbright scholar to Tangier, George Bajalia and translated by Zakaria Alilech is a one of a kind experience for everyone involved. The entire show is performed in Darija, the everyday language of Morocco, as opposed to classical Arabic or French, as most other theater is here.

“I think for people to appreciate a story, to identify with it or learn from it, they have to be comfortable,” Bajalia said with the port of Tangier at his back. “When the audience sits before the stage, they see laundry hanging. They see a café that could well be the one in their street, and they feel comfortable in a familiar space. It is only natural that they identify more with a story told in their everyday language and the language of the street.”

For most of the actors, some professionals and some first-timers, F7ali F7alek is the first show they’ve done in Darija. However, despite the novelty of acting in Darija, the show is interpreted naturally and with the force of realism characteristic of Bajalia’s previous work. The lightness of the bridal shop scene and dance scene, and the tragedy of Mustapha’s death are rendered gorgeously by Rabat native actress Mouna Rmiki.

“I took the essence of what I thought was Maria and made it my own,” she said, “and tried to adapt it to a Moroccan context. There’s no process, really. It’s something within me.”

Sufjan Mazin

The soundtrack is a mix of classics from the West Side Story accompanied by classical Andalusian music performed by Abnae wa Binat Zaryab of Fez Festival fame. Sufjan Mazin plays the hopeless romantic Tony and delivers superbly. His vocal range is incredible, and his performance of “Maria” is nothing short of breathtaking.

“I find it comfortable to sing in English because we all know the songs from the film,” he said. “It was challenging to sing though, because the composer is so well known and you really can’t touch the original. The arrangement is perfect, so it’s beautiful to sing these classic songs even if the rest of the play is brand new.”

A real international exchange, a mix of Broadway and the Petit Soco, F7ali F7alek’s opening night drew an interested crowd of locals and foreigners alike. The show’s producer, Tony award nominated Tom Casserly, admits the challenges of working across cultures and language barriers, but emphasizes the learning experience had by everyone involved in the show. With little to no time left before opening night, Bajalia and Casserly taught musicians to play Bernstein, taught lighting technicians used to marriages and concerts to light a play, and learned from their cast of talented young Moroccans as well as their locally-hired crew who came through to help them open the show.

A few technical wrinkles in the show remain to be ironed out, but for Bajalia, the show must go on.

“It is important to share these stories,” he said. “We may come from different cultures or speak different languages, but in the theatre we are all equal in front of the story, the actors and the music. This has been a learning experience for everyone, and in the end, that’s why I do theatre.”

F7ali F7alek is running every night at 19h through Saturday the 10th at the Kasbah Museum in Tangier. Admission is free, and a one of a kind experience in Morocco is guaranteed.

Story: Joe Lukawski
Photos: Omar Chennafi

For more information, visit: http://www.f7alif7alek.com

Visit Joe Lukawski: http://joelukawski.wordpress.com


SHARE THIS!

Moroccan News Briefs #77

Moroccan middle class faces new tax burden

The draft 2013 Finance Act includes a new solidarity tax. According to Magharebia, he opposition views the proposal as an attack on the middle class.

Morocco's 2013 Finance Act is not yet law, but one provision is already sparking widespread criticism from opposition legislators. Their main complaint about the draft law presented in parliament on Wednesday (October 24th) is a new solidarity tax on those with monthly earnings of 25,000 dirhams (2,250 euros) or more.

The tax hike on the highest earners aims to boost to the Social Cohesion Fund of 2012, which covers the new RAMED medical assistance programme for citizens with special needs and finances education initiatives. A proportional rate of 3% will apply to those with annual incomes between 300,000 and 600,000 dirhams per year. Higher earners will be subject to a 5% rate.

But according to the leader of the Authenticity and Modernity Party (PAM) in the House of Councillors, Hakim Benchemmas, the move will hit the middle class the hardest. It will also fail to fulfil the government's commitments, he said.

Chaoui Belassel, the Constitutional Union party leader in the Chamber of Representatives, agrees, arguing that the measure aims to support the needy at the expense of the middle class.

Many workers also disapprove of the proposal and hope that the opposition will be able to amend it.

The government's increase to fuel prices has already had an effect on other items, critics of the new tax measure say. Ahmed Sellami, who works for a company, feels that the proposed solidarity tax will be yet another burden for many households.

"I earn 30,000 dirhams. I have to support my parents and my two unemployed brothers, as well as my small family. I pay school fees for my three children and I have to pay off my loans. That leaves me unable to save anything," he told Magharebia.

Driss Azami El Idrissi, the minister delegate responsible for the budget, has insisted that everyone must pull together in the current economic situation. Businesses, he explained, will also contribute to the Social Cohesion Fund.


Euro Millions site hacked by Moroccans

Members of the Moroccan Ghosts hacker collective recently defaced the Web site for France's Euromillions lottery with a message condemning gambling.

"The messages appeared in Arabic and French and blocked the homepage of the lottery in France. ... The French version of the message said: 'Oh you believers. Wine, games of chance, statues all augur impurity and are the work of the devil,'" AFP reports. "It exhorted people to quit gambling, saying it was used by the devil along with alcohol to 'sow hatred between yourselves and turn you away from God and prayer.'"

"The Moroccan Ghosts are a group of hackers founded in 2012," writes Softpedia's Eduard Kovacs. "Their objectives are not only to defend their country and its king, but also to militate for territorial unity."


Death of a cocaine smuggler

A forty-seven year old Nigerian who died at the airport in Casablanca was found to have 76 capsules of cocaine in his stomach. A Nigerian national died last weekend at his arrival at the airport Mohammed V, following the bursting of capsules of cocaine he had in the intestine. The information was given to the media by an airport security sources. The victim was in transit from a flight from Doha to Casablanca, with an onward ticket to Benin. According to the security source, "the passenger appeared uncomfortable due to severe abdominal pain, before suddenly vanishing in the departure lounge."

 
Eid Al-Adha in Morocco's prisons

Some 979 sheep and 11 calves were killed in prisons throughout Morocco on the occasion of Eid Al Adha. According to the Delegation General for Prison Administration and Reintegration (DAPR) several institutions and public and private institutions in addition to the central administration of the DAPR had donated sheep and cattle for the benefit of various penitentiaries. The donations came from both local and district government as well as many private sector firms and individuals.


Villagers drive out prostitutes

Writing in the New York Times, Suzanne Daley reports that local groups in the village of Ain Leuh have made a stand against prostitution. According to Daley, for years, this mountain village with its crumbling whitewashed walls was known as the place to go for sex - a Moroccan version of Amsterdam’s red-light district.

Now a group of men here, known as "the Islamists", have taken matters into their own hands.

The men deny that they were on a religious campaign, or that they are fanatics. They were tired, they said, of living side by side with drunken, brawling clients, tired of having their daughters propositioned as they headed home from school, tired of being embarrassed about where they lived.

“It reached a point after Ramadan,” said Mohammed Aberbach, 41, who helped organize the campaign to drive the prostitutes out of town, “that men were actually waiting in lines. It was crazy.”

The changes in Ain Leuh are being held up by some in Morocco as another triumph of the Arab Spring — testament to what can happen when ordinary citizens stand up for change and make life better for themselves.

For others, however, the events of the past year show how the more fundamentalist Islamists, though continuing to be shut out of power in countries like Tunisia, Egypt and Morocco, nonetheless manage to promote their conservative agendas — often taking the law into their own hands, and in this case threatening the prostitutes and their customers and driving away the only industry in these parts.

“The economy is in free fall here,” said Ali Adnane, who works for a rural development agency. “The girls rented. They had cash. They bought things. Some people here are really happy about the changes. But some people are not.”

Full story here: New York Times


Moroccan Agriculture Fair in Agadir

From 6th to 9th December 2012, at the Expo Park Agadir, various members of the fruit and vegetables industry will get together for the 10th edition of this annual event. The meeting is supported by APEFEL and by the Council of the Moroccan region of Souss Massa Draa and supervised by the Minister of Moroccan Agriculture. This 10th edition will extend over a covered exhibition area of 30.000 square metres.

Producers, growers, distribuitors, researchers and many more will meet to discuss current conditions, to share news concerning production and to think about new strategies for the future. The fair expects to have representatives in attendance of Companies from over 15 different nations.

The Agadir fair in 2011

The fair in Agadir will also support the initiative made by the government to develop the sector Maroc Vert - Green Morocco.


And now the weather...

Mohamed Belouchi, from the National Bureau of Meteorology says we can expect continuous rain showers until Friday with disturbed and unstable conditions. Heavy rainfall of up to 50 to 80 millimeters is predicted all week. The adverse weather is a result of atmospheric disturbances in western Europe.

Fez should return to sunny conditions on Saturday, with a high of around 25 degrees Celsius. However before that the temperatures will be between 14 (night) and 23 (day). Rabat continues with showers and a range of 18 to 22 until partly sunny conditions on Saturday. Casablanca can expect the same conditions as Rabat. However, Tangiers can expect wet weather right through until Sunday. Marrakech should improve to a few sun showers by Thursday and fine through next weekend with temperatures between 17 and 28.

SHARE THIS!

Moroccan News Briefs #73

Abortion campaign - mixed reception

According to reports on Radio Netherlands, a boat known as the ‘abortion boat’ is setting sail for Morocco. It will be the first visit by the Dutch organisation Women on Waves (WOW) who are due to launch a campaign this week, in cooperation with local youth group M.A.L.I. (Mouvement Alternatif pour les Libertés Individuelles)

The group, Women on Waves, was founded 11 years ago to offer sexual health services including medical abortions. In order not to break local laws the group works on board a Dutch ship outside the territorial waters of countries where abortion is illegal. WOW was invited to Morocco by M.A.L.I. In a petition launched last month, the Moroccan group said they want to “put an end to illegal practices that present many dangers by providing access to legal abortion, health checked to save lives.”

In most Islamic countries, including Morocco, abortion is illegal unless the life of the mother is in danger. The only exception in the region is Tunisia which has reformed its laws and now has a more liberal stance.

According to AFP, the authorities' response to the initiative remains unknown, with local daily Al-Tajdid, the mouthpiece of Morocco's ruling Islamist party, questioning whether the government would allow the ship to enter Moroccan waters.

The founder of WOW. Dr Rebecca Gomperts, says that Rabat's reaction was "hard to predict," but she argued that any attempt to block the visit would be an "illegal" intervention in the freedom of travel and the freedom of expression.

She denied it was an inappropriate time for the visit, despite religious sensitivities running high in Muslim countries after violent protests last month against a US-made anti-Islam film and the publication of blasphemous cartoons in France.

"I understand that (the visit) is seen as a provocation by some religious groups. But this is about women's health. It has nothing to do with religion."

According to unofficial estimates, between 600 and 800 women in Morocco undergo an illegal abortion every day. The World Health Organisation estimates that worldwide, some 47,000 women die annually as the result of unsafe abortions.

Spanish Government Support for Morocco on Sahara Issue Welcomed

Foreign Minister Jose Manuel Garcia-Margallo

Morocco has welcomed the position taken by the Spanish government on the Western Sahara conflict and political developments that Morocco has made in recent years in order to build a democratic state. The Spanish Foreign Minister Jose Manuel Garcia-Margallo said at a conference on "The foreign policy of Spain in the Mediterranean", at the headquarters of the Union for the Mediterranean (UfM), that "Morocco has embarked on the path of reform," and about the Western Sahara conflict, he said: "the biggest challenge for Morocco will probably be the implementation of the autonomy of the southern territories. "

In this statement, the Spanish Minister of Foreign Affairs did not refer to "Western Sahara", as is the custom among the Spanish politicians, but "the southern territories", which demonstrates a clear change in approach of the Government of Mariano Rajoyen in favour  of the stance of Rabat on the Moroccan former Spanish colony. This summer, García-Margallo called Spanish humanitarian activists working in the Sahrawi camps in Tindouf (Algerian Sahara) to leave the  territory for safety reasons, especially since they have become a favorite target of Islamic terrorism.

Morocco had feared that the arrival of the Popular Party (PP) government might mean the abandonment of Madrid's support for the interests of Morocco in the Sahara, initiated by the previous Socialist government of José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero.

The socialist leader had ignored some voices within his own party (PSOE) and implicitly backed the formula advocated by Rabat - broad autonomy within the Kingdom of Morocco.

Rajoy, who is aware of the major economic and geostrategic interests that Spain Morocco and North Africa, and who knows the Rabat's role in the fight against terrorism and illegal immigration, wants to reach a bilateral relationship slice from the past.

The Rajoy government still has a long way to go to consolidate Hispano-Moroccan relations and, as has happened in the previous Socialist government, he will face much internal opposition, including from the ranks of the PP, as well as in political and social sectors who see Morocco as an enemy that must be kept at a distance.

Royal Air Maroc adds flights

Starting on October 11, RAM will launch three weekly flights from Madrid to Tangier. The move by Royal Air Moroc will strengthen air links between Spain and the Kingdom of Morocco. A statement from the national airline says that tickets for this new route are already on sale. RAM will connect to the Spanish capital to the Northern Morocco's chief city with three weekly flights: Monday, Thursday and Sunday.

Morocco's Road Toll

According to the Moroccan Minister of Equipment and transport, Aziz Rebbah, more than 2,700 have been killed in traffic accidents during the first 8 months of 2012 an increase of 4.4% compared to the same period last year. Accidents also seriously injured 8042 (0.58%) and 59,602 minor injuries (0.73%).

Morocco's Coastal Ecology

European scientists are coming to the rescue of the country's beaches. Many Moroccan beaches are a mess. But scientists of the expedition "The Changing Ocean" have arrived in Morocco and want to "reconcile with the ocean". According to a Scottish scientist, David French, "In all countries there is a long way to go, but in Morocco, we can see with our own eyes, so much plastic waste". (Source: Yabiladi)

Moroccan Couscous a winner

Moroccan Couscous won the prize for best presentation at the end of the 15th edition of "Couscous Fest," a festival of cultural integration held for a week in San Vito Lo Capo, near Trapani (Sicily, Southern Italy ). Moroccan chefs had made the trip to this famous fishing village in Italy, to compete for creativity and originality in the preparation of couscous recipes. The resulting Moroccan dishes were judged to be more varied when compared with other competitors.

Morocco wins 2012 African Kickboxing Championship

News from Starafrica.com is that Morocco have won the 2012 African Kickboxing Championship that held in Antananarivo, Madagascar over the weekend. They gleaned eight gold medals while the host country followed behind with seven victories.

This competition has been described as the best so far as it brought together close to 200 fighters from seven countries, fourteen referees and judges from Europe. It was also the first time in the history of the championships that a computerize system has been used for points counting.

And finally...

A strange story of a hat. Over the years, millions of Fezes are purchased by tourists and taken to their home countries. The View from Fez tracked one hat that left Morocco forty years ago and is still in active use.

The Fez in question was purchased in Casablanca and then made its way to Finland. It remained with the original owner for thirty years and was then handed on to Mark Uotilla, the proprietor of Töölön Sikarikauppa - the most famous pipe and cigar shop in the Finnish capital Helsinki.

The wearing of a Fez has become traditional amongst the shop's cigar club which meets regularly to enjoy a quiet smoke and a chat.  However, as we discovered, Mr Uotilla wears it on a far more regular basis. Adding to the surprise was his Arabic language skills and depth of knowledge about Morocco. He is a worthy owner of this now elderly Fez.

SHARE THIS!

Tangier Jazz Festival, TanJazz - Wide Definitions

The 2012 TanJazz Festival is over - The View from Fez's resident musicologist Chris Witulski reports from Tangier.

As we walked from the Tangier train station to the medina, along a beached lined with dance club advertisements and children playing in the sand, we crossed a group of men in ties holding dixieland brass band instruments. The sousaphone stood out as an anomaly in the Moroccan sun, and when I heard the banjo strummed, the electric guitar sound that came out of the attached speaker was startling.

This was Friday afternoon at the Tangier Jazz Festival, TanJazz. Batunga and the Subprimes  spent much of the time wandering the streets in old New Orleans style, but these Parisians kicked out some Afro-Cuban sounds that sat perfectly alongside the rest of the festival's entertainment. They deserve a listen.

Gnawa Express

Saturday night, we settled into a spot on the port stage, situated on the long coast, with the old medina perched high above us. The Gnawa Express opened the free concert evening, performing barely-stylized music from the Afro-Moroccan ritual. The now famous Gnawa tradition's music animates ritual evenings that last until the following morning's sunrise, but this group led us through what can be considered the "greatest hits." These songs have become widely know across Morocco's population, symbolizing the dramatic rise in stature for this music and religious practice. What was once confined to heavy private evenings now makes up a repertoire that simply cannot be ignored in Moroccan music festivals. Gnawa Express, led by Maalem Abdelmajid Domnati, is based out of Tangier and their sound lacked the jazz fusion embedded into the music of other Gnawa groups throughout the weekend, but the group's grooves and the music's popularity alone were enough to get them an invite to the jazz festival. (For an example of another group from the weekend's events that features heavy jazz fusion with Gnawa music, see Majid Bekkas's "African Blues")

Keeping the focus on groove instead of esoteric harmonic exploration, Bebey Prince Bissongo and his ensemble took the stage. A native of Burkino Faso, Bissongo's set was tight and simple. The music, perhaps, could best be described as fun. His palm-muted guitar sound, the tasty trumpet, and the thick African hand drumming sat atop a tight and percussive organ and an infallible electric bass/drum set team to drive the energy from start to finish.

These types of groups, charged to perform at the large public (read: free) outdoor venues, demonstrate just how widely the net of "jazz" can be cast. Nowhere to be found was the 1950s Manhattan sound, let alone the quartet-driven melodic explorations of the 60s and 70s. Gnawa music, lifted straight from the ritual and placed on a stage sat alongside some contemporary Afrobeat funk inspired by hot nights of dancing with a beer in hand to represent two distant (yet surprisingly complimentary) ends of a spectrum. The TanJazz festival had much more to offer, of course, with club-like intimacy in small venues for 200-300dh per night. But for the majority of people in Tangier during these evenings, the jazz that animated their evenings was diverse, accessible, and unbelievably... well... fun.

Photos: Tyler Martinson

SHARE THIS!

Pop-up Art Show Comes To Morocco

Tangier, Fez and Casablanca are on the schedule of an enterprising (and surprising) couple of artists from very different backgrounds.  The duo, Swales & Sinclair, are expected to pop-up in Fez on the19th and 20th of this month after a visit to Tangier. Their travelling show is called  In the Footsteps of Ibn Batutta.

Founded in Manila in 2008, Swales & Sinclair is an ongoing artistic collaboration between mixed- media, visual artist David Swales and mixed-media artist, singer/songwriter/poet (and former Philippine child music-star) Chanel Sinclair.

They have exhibited in New York City, Manila, Athens, Hurghada and Al 'Uqsur and are about to embark on a schedule of spontaneous, pop-up, neighbourhood exhibitions in Eastern Europe and the Islamic world – exchanging wabi-sabi images between contrasting global, urban contexts and audiences.

If and when we discover where in Fez they will pop-up, we'll let you know. Limited edition prints will be for sale.

Keep an eye out for Swale & Sinclair and show them your support because proceeds from the show will be donated to a local charity, either the local women's shelter or the abandoned girls' home.

WABI-SABI - the art of imperfect beauty

Pared down to its barest essence, wabi-sabi is the Japanese art of finding beauty in imperfection and profundity in nature, of accepting the natural cycle of growth, decay, and death. It's simple, slow, and uncluttered-and it reveres authenticity above all. Wabi-sabi is flea markets, not warehouse stores; aged wood, not Pergo; rice paper, not glass. It celebrates cracks and crevices and all the other marks that time, weather, and loving use leave behind. It reminds us that we are all but transient beings on this planet-that our bodies as well as the material world around us are in the process of returning to the dust from which we came. Through wabi-sabi, we learn to embrace liver spots, rust, and frayed edges, and the march of time they represent.

DAVID SWALES

David Swales was born in West Belfast, where the war- damaged cityscape, vivid political murals and extreme societal traumas left an indelible, primary influence. During a largely diasporic life he has since lived and worked in Europe, Asia, Africa and the U.S. David previously worked at Central St. Martins College of Art under renowned photographer/film-maker Malcolm LeGrice, He also worked in the gem-trade, until an unfortunate robbery at Heathrow Airport compelled him to seek employment in the financial world (in Seoul, London, New York City and Manila). Throughout this period he also had several successful exhibitions, finally leaving the financial world in early 2012 to focus solely on his art.

CHANEL SINCLAIR

Chanel Sinclair was born in San Diego, California. Growing up in a multi-lingual, trans-pacific family, Chanel experienced the popular culture of the West Coast while living for large periods in a contrasting rural province of the Philippines. Writing poetry and music in several languages, Chanel has been profoundly influenced by the rich folklore and visual artistic heritage of the Philippines, but also its vast economic disparities. This manifests itself within the work of Swales & Sinclair, especially with written word (woven into the mixed media pieces that the artists construct) and her passion for revealing the hidden beauty of wabi-sabi captured in often poverty-stricken environments of developing-world, urban contexts. Chanel is also exploring the use of the native (but now extinct in terms of common-usage) Philippine script of Alibata within their work.

Chanel in Luxor with street kids

 IN THEIR OWN WORDS

In a time of great political change and increased societal/cultural polarisation, our humble and personal mission as artists is to commit our own resources to help increase global dialogue and understanding.

On a person-by-person basis we hope to achieve this through several art projects where we document wabi-sabi images in contrasting urban environments and transplant or "exchange" them through spontaneous, neighbourhood exhibitions in differing parts of the world.

We especially seek out “typical” neighbourhoods where people may not normally have interaction with the commercial art world or foreign artists. The limited edition prints of our work that we exhibit during these neighbourhood shows are donated to the respective audiences.

SHARE THIS!

The Festival de Jazz de Tangier - TanJazz 2012

If jazz is your thing then make a note of the dates of the 13th edition of the TanJazz Festival in Tangier. The festival runs from Wednesday September 19 to Sunday 23rd.

The main venue is the Italian Palace. Performers include Bebey Prince Bissongo, Mario Rom's Interzone,  Sergio Monroy Trio, the Puissance Jazz Bigband, Gnawa Express and La Velle and Friends, just to name a few. There will also be jam sessions and even a session of kids' jazz.

Sous le Haut Patronage de Sa Majesté le Roi Mohammed VI

You can find out more information and the full programme by visiting TANJAZZ

SHARE THIS!

Tantalising Tangier

Glenys Roberts, writing for the Mail Online has a fine piece about Tangier. Here is an edited extract and a link to the full article.

Tangier - photo: Sandy McCutcheon

Bohemian rhapsody: Falling (again) for Tangier, Morocco's exuberant swirl of a city

Welcome to expat heaven Tangier, Morocco, where the British still cling to an elegant social round, for the most part long gone in the mother country.  With their own church, their favourite hotel, the Minzah, built by the immensely rich Marquis of Bute in the Thirties; their own riding school; and their own cemetery (and pet cemetery), it is one of world traveller Michael Palin's favourite destinations as described in his book Sahara. Palin tells of the typically bizarre churchyard scene when Birdie, an elderly white pet cockerel, took a bite out of a retired widow called Lady Baird.

Quite why I fell in love with Tangier and its eccentric ways, I can't remember. I have been visiting it since the Sixties and seen it change from a scruffy town to a modern city with French restaurants, beach bars and a summer influx of some of Europe's richest people.

Mick Jagger, who has kept a flame alive for it almost as long as I have, paid a flying visit this year to see his favourite jeweller Majid, and I met Sixties rock chick Pattie Boyd, still looking a million dollars stretched out under a coconut hair parasol.

Tangier has some fabulous restaurants - photo Sandy McCutcheon

I first visited the white city, as it is known because of its dazzling buildings and fabulous light, on a day trip from Gibraltar on the shuttle plane run in those days by Gibair. When the plane was grounded by sea mist, the company put us up in the Minzah Hotel. With its entrance in the middle of the town and view over the bay, it is surely one of the best-placed hotels in the world.

The view from El Minzah is stunning

It is hard to think of a better positioned town either. On a headland where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean and overlooking Cape Trafalgar, where Nelson lost his life, it is a must for history buffs. The town has had Western visitors ever since the 17th- century diarist Samuel Pepys was sent there to wind up the British garrison in 1683.

Gore Vidal came to Tangier for the boys, Errol Flynn for the girls. Matisse and Degas came to paint and couturier Yves Saint Laurent to gain inspiration for his collections. Tennessee Williams came to write and so did Jack Kerouac and William Burroughs. Winston Churchill and Aristotle Onassis both visited and the legendary American writer Paul Bowles moved in.

Paul Bowles in Tangier ~ photo by Jearld F Moldenhauer, courtesy Dar Balmira Gallery, Gzira Fes Medina

Today, the King of Morocco, Mohammed VI, is determined to make it a showcase city. He has built a corniche at the base of the kasbah and a marina that he hopes will make it into another Monaco. There is so much confidence in the air that the Spanish come to look for work in construction. And there are so many French intellectuals - French is still the lingua franca - at times it is possible to imagine oneself on the Left Bank in Paris.

Old Tangier hands like myself hope our favourite town will not end up a concrete jungle as parts of Europe have done, but whatever happens it is difficult to imagine it being altogether changed. It is built on so many hills that there will always be those tempting glimpses through the buildings to the sea. When I first visited, many of the women were veiled. Now the French sunbathe topless and the carpet sellers speak perfect English. You can gamble in the casinos, you can drink in the restaurants and quad-bike and surf on the beaches.

In Tangier people still know how to enjoy the moment. They love to sit around in cafes watching the world go by and not worrying what the next day will bring. It is such a cultural shift it makes for a very relaxing holiday. Most of all there is the impression, because of Tangier's history, of living in several centuries and several countries all at the same time.


SHARE THIS!

Morocco's Heat Wave ~ Is The End Is In Sight?

Birds cooling off

During the fasting month of Ramadan, Morocco experienced some extreme heat wave conditions with temperatures reaching up to 48 degrees Celsius. Of the major centres, Fez and Marrakesh both bore the brunt of the heat. In marked contrast, the coastal cities of Tangier, Rabat and Casablanca only suffered highs in the low 30s.

A beach near Rabat - a good place to beat the heat

Probably the only people who enjoyed the heat wave are the manufacturers of bottled water. According to one local shopkeeper in Fez, he couldn't keep bottles in his refrigerator long enough to get really cold. 'Every time I filled it up, more people would ask for bottles," he said.

So, when will the heat wave end?

Mohamed Belouchi

The spokesman for the National Directorate of Meteorology, Mr Mohamed Belouchi, predicts that the weather will improve, with a drop in temperatures starting on Friday (tomorrow). He says that the normal temperatures for this time of year should become the norm again soon.

"The heat wave that knows Morocco for more than a week will continue tomorrow, Thursday, but on Friday there will be cuts that will be progressive on until early next week when they will return to the normal the temperatures of the season," Mohamed Belouchi said yesterday.

However, when you visit different weather forecasting websites, there are variations in what they predict. This is particularly true of the minimum temperatures predicted. 

The BBC weather forecast with lower minimums

The Weather Channel - getting to sleep at night might soon be possible!

The forecast below from Weather forecast.com,  says minimum temperatures should be between  25 and 30 degrees. Others such as The Weather Channel (above) or the BBC (above) forecast lows of between 15 and 18 Celsius. Hopefully the BBC has it right and those of us without airconditioning will be able to get a good night's sleep - maybe even have to use a sheet! Please note: The weather forecast below automatically updates the present conditions. 

View Detailed 10 Day Weather Forecast for Fes, webcams, weather maps & more at Weather-Forecast.com

SHARE THIS!